How to feed trees and shrubs in spring. Fertilizing fruit trees and shrubs in spring

For the growth and nutrition of our garden wards after wintering, the element nitrogen is needed, which, if it was in the soil, was washed out of it by rains into deeper layers during the autumn and winter, carried away with melting snow. Therefore, in the spring there is a need to feed the trees in the garden, and with what and how - let's break the process down.

Fertilization methods

Nitrogen supplements can be delivered to their destination in a variety of ways.

• Spraying - foliar spring top dressing
• root feeding; it is carried out by introducing fertilizer elements into the soil in a liquid or solid state.

Regarding the age of the tree, we must know how and where to properly bring food so that it reaches its goal. If the seedling is small. then you need to fertilize the entire near-trunk circle.

In an adult tree, the suction roots are located approximately in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe projection of the crown onto the ground and beyond this border, and top dressing must be applied there.

The liquid form of application is more preferable. since in more ensures that the food is digested quickly. it is poured over previously watered soil. to avoid being burned by the fertilizer solution.

Dry minerals are loosened into the soil. then watering is done. Just
it makes no sense to scatter the granules over the surface - the nitrogen will evaporate from them, not
having reached the goal.

An overdose of nitrogen is no longer desirable. than its disadvantage. Because of it, fruit trees can grow to the detriment of fruiting, and they will not be well prepared for winter.

Feeding trees is not carried out every spring, it depends on the nature of the soil (they feed less often on clay), autumn fertilization, how the tree felt in the previous season, on the amount of last year's crop, how much it lost nutrition during this time.

When, how and what to feed

The first feeding of fruit is carried out in early to mid-April, when the buds are only
begin to swell, and the snow has melted. There is no point in throwing pellets on the snow,
roots will not receive nitrogen. However, when using this method, there is a risk that nitrogen-fed plants will tolerate them worse during return frosts.

Many gardeners advise to carry out such an operation during the period of leaf blooming or the beginning of flowering.

What fertilizer is best to use? It can be organic - compost,
manure. humus or mineral additives: urea, ammonium nitrate, sulfate
ammonium.

Along the perimeter of the crown, a furrow is made with a depth of half the bayonet of a shovel, the above compositions are introduced there. For mineral additives, the norms are indicated on the packages.

At the present time, the ground under fruit trees is often not dug up. a
planted lawn grasses or just mow. How to fertilize in such
case?

On my allotment on the edge trunk circle dug up scraps of old
water pipes about 25 cm long (the more, the better). They rise slightly above ground level. This is where nutrient solutions are poured.

The trunk circle of the old Antonovka was mulched with black spunbond, pipes were dug under it along the line of projection of the ends of the branches. Shade-loving hosts also feel great there.

If you make a solution, then 10 liters will require 1 tablespoon of urea, or 3 tbsp.
complex fertilizer. or azofoski, nitrofoski. In order for more potassium to be present, it is good to add half a glass of ash, and if we take urea, then a whole glass.

The presence of potassium will make the fruit more sugary. Instead of ashes, you can put a spoon
potassium sulfate.

Organic matter is placed at the rate of 20-30 kg of humus per mature tree.
By the way, if you add compost along the perimeter of the crown every 2-3 years, other "treats"
not required.

It is very useful to treat with slurry: dilute and infuse last year's cow or horse manure for two weeks in a barrel with a closed lid (ratio 1:5), stirring occasionally. Dilute 1:2 before use. The norm for an adult tree is 5 buckets.

It is good to feed with liquid fertilizers, for example, manure "compote".
To prepare it, I take a bucket of rotted manure, two buckets of weeded grass,
half-liter jar of old jam, a glass of wood ash. I put everything in a 100-liter barrel, fill it with water, close the lid. The composition ferments for about two weeks, so you need to take care of its preparation in advance. Then I take a liter of compote, plant it in a bucket of water and fertilize. An adult tree needs 5 to 10 buckets. In addition to nitrogen, this composition will provide potassium and trace elements.

Foliar processing has two goals:

• Feed as fast as possible
• Protect from pests and diseases (details in the next article).

Through the leaves, nutrition is absorbed much faster, so we feed the fruit, especially when in early spring root system cannot provide nutrition for buds and leaves, and when flowering occurs, the formation of ovaries.

These can be fertilizer special mixtures with trace elements in their composition,
complex, for example, "Kemira-Lux", boric acid, potassium permanganate. Very fit
preparations "Uniflor-growth" and "Uniflor-buton", where microelements are contained in
easily digestible form.

It must be remembered that for such processing it is necessary to take lower concentrations of solutions (5-10 times) than with the root one. All work should be carried out in dry weather after sunset.

Spraying is not an alternative to root nutrition, but can greatly help fruit in hard time to support their immunity.

Spring feeding for shrubs is carried out similarly to the methods described above for fruit trees, only the dosage changes.

Please watch a very useful video on fertilizing in the spring:

Most trees grow for many years in one place, gradually drawing nutrients from the soil. Over time, they begin to be missed, the plants get sick, wither, give poor harvests. Feeding fruit trees in the fall is designed to solve this problem.

Why is autumn tree dressing necessary?

A rich harvest depletes the reserves of substances necessary for fruit trees for further growth and development. The missing trace elements are replenished with the help of top dressing during the preparation of plants for winter, when sap flow stops. Fertilizers help trees get through the harsh season and prepare for the next growing season.

After mid-summer, nitrogen compounds are not introduced into the soil

To strengthen the immunity of trees, they are provided with nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. True, it is dangerous to add nitrogen before wintering: the trees will “think” that spring has come, many young shoots will appear, before the onset of cold weather they will not have time to become covered with wood and die.

It is especially important to give a nutrient mixture to trees such as:

• apricot;
• Cherry;
• pear;
• peach;
• plum;
• cherries;
• Apple tree.

Experienced gardeners feed plum, cherry and apricot trees with superphosphate and potassium monophosphate: 15 g of top dressing per 10-liter bucket of water is enough to fertilize 1 sq. m of soil. With a dry method of embedding in the ground, you will need 30 g of granules per 1 sq. m.

There are specialized fertilizers for fruit trees, for berry crops, for the whole garden marked "autumn"

In heavy clay soil sawdust is added (preferably rotted, but fresh can also be used). So the soil becomes lighter, breathable.

Some beginner gardeners bury fallen leaves under the trees. However, they do not know that pests, larvae, and microorganisms enter the soil with it.

It is better to bury overripe healthy zucchini near the roots - a small compost pit is obtained.

How to feed garden crops depending on their age

Many gardeners successfully replace potassium-phosphorus mineral fertilizers with ash

3-4 weeks before the upcoming frost around fruit trees make small ditches. For 1 sq. m of the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe distribution of the roots contribute:

• potassium salt (1.5 matchboxes);
• superphosphate (1/4 st.);
• humus (5 kg).

Saplings in autumn are especially useful to feed with wood ash. Under fruit trees no older than 8 years, 3.5 buckets of humus with a volume of 10 liters are brought in, under older ones - 6 such buckets with a slide. Fertilizer close up to a depth during the digging of the earth.

During autumn transplant fertilizers other than spring fertilizers are applied to the soil. Since nitrogen is undesirable, it is better to concentrate on other nutrients. So, fresh manure is poured into the bottom of the pit and separated from the roots of the seedling by a layer of earth. But overripe is preferable. Used 5 buckets per pit. Manure is mixed with a substrate of peat or old compost, sand, original soil.

The rate of double superphosphate per 1 planting hole is 100–200 g; potassium sulphate - 150–300 g. Once every 3–4 years, you can use phosphorite flour - a long-acting autumn top dressing.

5 most popular fruit tree dressings in autumn

Organic top dressing helps to increase productivity, improve the composition of the soil. Minerals support the root system. It is best to combine both of them: in this way the soil will be saturated with all the important trace elements necessary for wintering. Stores sell special mixtures for autumn feeding.

wood ash

In autumn, it is important to improve the structure of the land in the garden. Acidify the earth with wood ash: 1/4 kg per 1 sq. m. In the composition of top dressing there is no nitrogen, but there are easily digestible potassium, phosphorus and calcium. The ash contains a little boron, zinc, copper, iron, magnesium, manganese. These substances improve the immunity of plantings.

Ash is considered natural source phosphorus and potassium, the concentration of which varies from the initial burned material

Before September top dressing, generous watering of the soil is required. A lot of water is required: from 200 liters to 250 liters for each tree. The amount of liquid depends on the age of the plant and the scope of its crown. For better absorption of moisture, the earth near the trunk is dug up. Then ash fertilizer is applied (200 g per 1 sq. M), watered and mulched to reduce evaporation and heat the roots.

Ash is obtained by burning leaves, branches, unnecessary bark and stored in a place protected from moisture. The percentage of nutrients in organic top dressing depends on the raw materials:

• Ash left after incineration vines, potato tops and sunflowers, rich in potassium (40%).
• Birch, ash, oak ash contains about 30% calcium.
• There is a lot of phosphorus in the fertilizer obtained from coniferous trees and shrubs.

Modern gardeners in Lately manure is increasingly being replaced with green manures. They have the same nutritional value, but are much cheaper. And yes, they are easier to use.

Plant residues contain a full range of nutrients: nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus

Plants grown as autumn fertilizer are cut from the garden and laid under fruit trees in a layer of 15–20 cm. They are dug up with soil and watered abundantly. For faster decay, mulch with straw.

It is convenient when green fertilizers grow directly under the trees. Then green manure plants are not cut off for the winter - they themselves will die from frost, and by spring they will partially decompose by soil microorganisms.

Thanks to green manure and other organic top dressing, the thickness of the fertile layer increases. Fertilizers enter the soil, where they become food for soil bacteria and earthworms. With rainwater, nutrient residues reach the lower layers. Microorganisms penetrate there - after food - and leave products of their vital activity there.

potassium sulfate

Potassium sulfate (potassium sulphate) - top dressing in the form of granules, which includes not only potassium (50%), but also sulfur (18%), oxygen, magnesium, calcium.

Potassium is necessary for the growth and development of garden plantings, for good fruiting. This microelement improves the immune defense and metabolism of plants by cellular level, removes excess moisture, and the juice becomes thicker. During the autumn planting of seedlings, 150–200 g of potassium sulfate is required per planting hole.

Pre-winter moisture-charging watering will preserve the root system of the tree in severe frosts, eliminate the possibility of sunburn branches and bark

It is best to apply fertilizer while loosening the soil around the trunk: 30 g per 1 sq. m. It is desirable to close the granules to the depth where most of root system. Through it, trees better absorb nutrients. The heavier the soil, the greater the depth.

Superphosphate

Superphosphate - mineral top dressing. Usually applied together with potash fertilizers. This tandem is more effective than when the elements are applied separately. Phosphorus supports and strengthens the root system, helps cell sap to accumulate proteins and sugars. Thanks to this, the trees survive the cold more easily.

Apple and pear trees require 300 g of superphosphate and 200 potassium sulfate. Sometimes they are buried in the ground along with humus. But do not forget that phosphorus granules scattered on the ground will not get to the roots themselves. Plums and cherries are generously watered with a solution: 3 tbsp. l. superphosphate and 2 tbsp. l. potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water. Each tree takes 4-5 buckets.

inkstone

For foliar top dressing with a lack of iron in the soil, iron sulfate is used. In addition, it destroys fungal spores, moss and lichens on the bark. Protective clothing and goggles should be worn when working with toxic substances.

In addition to fertilizing, it is also important to treat the garden from pests in the fall.

Iron deficiency is calculated by the chlorosis of young leaves (a disease in which the leaves turn pale yellow), while the old ones do not change color. To compensate for the lack of this element, 50 g of ferrous sulfate is diluted in 10 liters of water.

Video: autumn care for fruit trees

Fertilizing fruit trees before the onset of cold weather is extremely important. Saturating the soil with nutrients helps horticultural crops survive the winter. Each gardener chooses those fertilizers with which it is more convenient for him to work.

Gardeners know: to get bountiful harvest in autumn, it is necessary to properly feed shrubs and trees in spring. Trees, shrubs and plants constantly receive from the soil the nutrients they need to grow and develop. But over time, the soil under them becomes poorer and poorer. This leads to a decrease in yield.

Even if you have already fertilized the soil in autumn period, this does not mean at all that it is no longer necessary to do this in the spring. The fact is that snow leaches important substances from it, especially nitrogen. In addition, trees and shrubs are actively growing in spring, so it is important for them to get this extra help.

How to feed trees and bushes in spring?

1. Manure or bird droppings - helps to enrich the soil with all the necessary substances, as well as improve the permeability of moisture and air.
2. Compost is plant debris that has begun to rot. It can improve the absorption of important minerals, but care must be taken to ensure that the compost is properly rotted.
3. Slurry - to obtain mix in large capacity water and manure in a ratio of 3:1. Leave to wander. Before fertilizing the soil, add another bucket of water to 1 liter of manure.

Mineral fertilizers are considered:

There are also a number of microfertilizers, which include a set of the most important substances for plants - zinc, boron, manganese, iron, copper, sulfur.

Top dressing of trees and shrubs: when to carry out?

In the spring, it is necessary, first of all, to fertilize nitrogen-containing agents. Many gardeners believe that it is best to do this at a time when the snow begins to melt. It is recommended to pour the preparations in circles (at least 50 cm in diameter, but better across the entire width of the crown) under the trunks of trees and shrubs directly on the snow.

Melt water quickly seeps into the soil, dissolving nitrogen in itself and nourishing the plants. This method is undesirable while the snow layer is still too thick or there is frozen ground under it. If the mixture is for a long time stay in the air, most of the nitrogen will erode.

Many summer residents are of the opinion that it is necessary to fertilize the soil in spring only after the plant has already fully woken up after hibernation and the first buds appear on the branches. Whenever you decide to fertilize, it is worth remembering to comply with correct dosage. If you pour too much nitrogen, it will lead to the development of fungal diseases.

The second time the fertilizing of the orchard should be carried out in April, when most of the trees and shrubs are in bloom. In order for them to grow and develop normally, it is recommended to add to the soil phosphorus and potassium. But at the same time, these components are better not to make. First, add a little phosphorus, and after a while, potassium.

The third top dressing is carried out after the plants have stopped blooming. At this time, it is better to use organic fertilizers. They should be laid in specially prepared recesses, dug up and mixed with the ground. If the soil in your garden is fertile, there is no need to fertilize with organic matter more than once a year.

The main types of perennial fertilizers

To ensure that your garden is fully supplied with all the necessary minerals and nutrients feeding is recommended in two ways:

1. Root feeding - watering is carried out under the trunk so that the substances enter the soil.
2. Foliar - branches are sprayed.

Both the first and second methods are effective. If timely and correctly carry out gravy and spraying, trees and bushes will bloom more abundantly, grow faster and bear fruit better.

Foliar top dressing of fruit trees in spring: features

In the spring, you can use more than just root fertilizer to improve the growth of your garden. Excellent results also gives foliar top dressing. Take a small amount of the leftover groundbait mixture and make a weak solution out of it. They need to carefully spray the entire crown of a tree or shrub.

The leaves perfectly absorb all substances., so the tree or shrub gets minerals faster. Gardeners call this method emergency assistance. It is used when it is necessary to stimulate the growth of shoots or when the trunk or root system has been damaged. For this method, both organic products and minerals are perfect. Microfertilizers also give a pretty good result.

If you want the fruits to have enough calcium, you need to spray in the spring fruit trees 4% Bordeaux mixture. She will also become excellent protection for wood from insect attacks and some diseases. Just remember: so that there are no burns of the bark and leaves, the solutions must be very weak.

To spray the crown of apple or pear trees, a solution of zinc sulfate or manganese sulfate with water (ratio of 0.2 g of substance per 1 liter of liquid) is suitable. If you use two elements at once, then their dosage should be halved. It is better to spray the crown of cherry plum, cherry, apricot and plum with urea in early spring (it must be diluted in water in a ratio of 50 g of urea per 10 liter of water). You need to spray several times with an interval of 7 days. If you want more effective result, try to alternate foliar and root method of fertilization.

Top dressing of trees in the spring: what is the norm?

It is very important to correctly set the norm for one tree. If there is not enough top dressing, then you will not get the result, and if there is too much, you can burn the tree. Therefore, it is very important to remember the dosage of drugs.

What to consider when calculating the dosage for one tree?

1. How often and how much do you water your plants. If the plantations receive enough moisture, then the dosage of top dressing can be higher.
2. When you are cutting. Immediately after pruning, you should slightly increase the proportion of fertilizer so that the plant recovers faster.
3. What is the composition of fertilizers.

Urea as a way to fertilize shrubs and trees

Urea is a mineral fertilizer, excellent source of nitrogen which stimulates plant growth. Therefore, this method is most often used in the spring, when the plants move away from winter. For top dressing, you can use a ready-made solution or scatter granules under trunks or plants. Urea is actively used for spraying strawberries, some fruit trees (cherries, apples, plums), raspberries, black currants.

Spring feeding of young trees

It is not recommended to apply any kind of fertilizer under too young seedlings. It is best to start feeding from the second year of the plant's life. Young trees in springtime need both organic as well as mineral funds.

During the first loosening of the soil after the snow melts, it is necessary to fertilize with nitrogen-containing mixtures. Manure and urea should be diluted in water (300 g of urea or 4 liters of liquid manure for 10 liters of liquid). Remember that under one young tree you will have to spend at least 5 liters of the funds received. If you use humus, remember that a tree that has been growing for no more than 5 years should receive about 20 kg of this fertilizer in the spring. Liquid top dressing can only be introduced into moist soil so as not to damage the root system.

Remember that the first few years you will not notice much effect from top dressing. This is fine. You will only see results when the tree begins to bear fruit.

How to fertilize fruit trees in spring?

Apple trees in spring period need the most mineral and organic nutrition. If your apple tree is more than 5 years old, but not yet 10 years old, for its growth it is necessary to make at least 30 kg of humus annually. Trees after 10 years need up to 50 kg of humus.

Pear dressing is similar to apple, but slightly different from it. The pear needs more humus. It must be mixed in the spring during the digging of the soil. While the tree is not yet four years old, up to 20 kg of humus can be used. But every year this figure must be increased by 10 kg.

Cherries and cherries at the age of 4-5 years need to add humus every spring, scattering it around the post (diameter not less than 0.5 m and layer up to 4 cm). Trees from five years old need humus every three years.

Under a six-year-old cherry plum or plum, up to 10 kg of humus should be added. If the tree is already more than six years old, the amount of fertilizer is increased to 20 kg.

Apricots are fed more than once in the spring. First, nitrogen-containing agents are used, then organics.

How to fertilize shrubs in spring?

As soon as the snow melts, the bushes need to be fed with nitrogen-containing products (ammonium sulfate, ammonium nitrate). A little later, you can feed the shrubs with potash or phosphate mixtures.

Most in drink potassium preparations needs a gooseberry. He also needs foliar fertilizing with manganese sulfate, potassium sulfate, boric acid.

In the spring, raspberries should be fertilized with liquid mixtures of minerals. Organic raspberries need to be fed every three years.

Currants need to be fed several times. First, before flowering itself, using nitrogen and organic preparations. Then the fertilizer should be repeated after a few weeks. When the berries begin to set, you can use ready-made mixtures for shrubs. This way you can improve taste qualities fruits.

Top dressing of the orchard in the spring: useful tips

Every gardener should know some features spring feeding garden:

1. Chemicals are carried from the soil to the roots by liquid, so if you are using a dry fertilizer, you need to water the plant generously.
2. Even liquid top dressing is not recommended to be applied to dry ground, as the root system can be damaged.
3. In the first year of life, garden crops do not need to be fed.
4. Fertilizer is more effective if carried out in the evening.
5. When feeding, keep in mind that in an adult tree, the root system can deviate from the crown border by 50 cm.

Fertilization and irrigation of trees, shrubs and plants. For growing tall and big fruit crops fruit trees need to be fertilized annually. Fertilizers are introduced into the annular near-stem grooves. They are dug on the periphery of the crown, closer to the trunk by 25-40 cm. Fertilization is combined with irrigation.

Basic fertilizer make in the fall, usually in the second half of October. The ditch is dug to a depth of 25-35 cm. 0.9 - 1 kg is placed on its bottom (depending on the length). full mineral fertilizer, 15-30 kg are placed on top. manure or humus (30-40 kg of manure for peaches), and on top - leaves, tops of vegetable plants, which are covered with a layer of earth 8 - 10 cm. Keeping the groove deepening.

Autumn - the best time for the use of fertilizers: feces, chicken manure and composts. Feces are brought in at 2-3 kg, droppings - at 8-10 kg, compost - at 20-30 kg. on a tree.

Fertilizing trees with humus.

How to fertilize trees with humus?

apple trees, grafted on dwarf and semi-dwarf rootstocks require more nutrients when densely planted than those grafted on seedlings. This is due to the nature of the root system - in weakly growing rootstocks, it is fibrous and lies shallow, while in vigorous rootstocks, the roots are branched and go deep. Therefore, trees on dwarf and semi-dwarf rootstocks must be planted in the presence of watering.

The yield of fruit trees is greatly influenced by
humus fertilizers, which not only provide the needs of plants for nutrients, including trace elements, but also contribute to the improvement physical properties soil. With prolonged application of only mineral fertilizers, the acidity and density of the soil may increase, and the composition of the root microflora may deteriorate.

Once every two or three years, manure can be used as organic matter (two or three kilograms per square meter) - best in the fall for plowing or digging. You can replace it with compost made from various plant waste. As organic fertilizers bird droppings can also be used: 200-400 g per sq. m.

It is better to make them into the annular grooves, they can be made one or two around the tree, depending on its age, with a depth of 20-25 cm and at a distance of 30-40 cm from the trunk. soil 3-4 cm.

These fertilizers are applied in autumn. Nitrogen fertilizers are given in the spring for watering. The number of those and others directly depends on the age of the trees. So, for example, under a two-year-old tree, 10-15 kg of manure or compost, 80 g of granular superphosphate and 30 g of potassium salt I could be applied before winter, and 36 g of amselitra or 26 g of urea in spring.

Tree 3-4 years old already requires 15-20 kg of manure or compost, 60 g of amseltra, 128 g of granulated super-1 phosphate and 50 g of potassium salt. Under a tree 5-6 years old, the diameter of the near-stem circle of which is three meters, it is recommended to apply in the fall 20-30 kg of manure or compost, 179 g of granulated superphosphate, 70 g of potassium salt, and in the spring - 84 g of amseltra or 60 g of urea.

Tree 7 years old 30-40 kg of manure or compost is required, 114 g of amseltra, 246 g of granulated superphosphate, 95 of potassium salt. Under a tree 9-10 years old, with a trunk circle diameter of 4 meters, it was necessary to apply in the fall 40-50 kg of manure or compost, 318 g of granulated superphosphate and 125 g of potassium salt, and in the spring either 150 g of ammonium nitrate or 109 g of urea .

Along with the main fertilizer carried out in the fall in the garden, foliar top dressing is used in spring and summer. First spraying the aboveground parts of the trees are carried out in late May - early June, the second - two to three weeks after the first.

Foliar top dressing can be done with a 0.5% solution of urea (50 g per 10 liters of water). And you can take 200 g of single superphosphate, 50 g of amseltra, or 40 g of urea, 50 g of potassium if, 1 g for 10 liters of water boric acid and 2 g of zinc sulfate and manganese.

Watering trees.

Watering the tree is done in the deepening of the groove in three steps: the first time 5-6 buckets, after 7-8 days 8-10 buckets, and then after 8-10 days 10-15 buckets of water. The amount of water for irrigation depends on the size of the trees. After the last watering, the soil is lightly mulched with dry earth or film, keeping a recess for precipitation in autumn.

In summer, root and foliar top dressing held from the end of June to the end of July. Trunk grooves are dug to a depth of 20-25 cm, 0.3-0.5 kg of mineral fertilizer and 8-10 kg of manure, humus or compost are placed on the bottom. Watering is carried out in two doses of 5-10 buckets of water with an interval of 2-3 days. The trunk grooves near the trees are covered with plywood, cardboard, and 1-2 days after the second watering, the grooves are leveled. Second top dressing late varieties held in late summer (August) - early September.

In dry spring apricots, cherries, sweet cherries are watered in the second half of May, the rest of the trees - in the first half of June. If there is little precipitation during the summer, apple trees, pears, quince, plums are watered 2-3 times (except for top dressing watering). In gardens where there is no running water, to save watering around the tree, it is necessary to bury old drain or asbestos pipes (4-6 pieces) around the perimeter at a distance of 80-120 cm from the trunk to a depth of 30-40 cm and irrigate through them.

adults not fruitful trees at good development do not fertilize and stop watering. Under such conditions, the development of growth shoots is weakened, fruit buds are laid, and growth end buds on twigs and annelids eventually turn into fruit buds.

Trees in some periods of the growing season are especially in need of replenishing their nutrient reserves. For this purpose, foliar top dressing is carried out, introducing nutrients into plants by spraying trees.

Foliar feeding of trees.

Foliar top dressings are especially effective, if for some reason the main fertilizer was not applied in the fall. Foliar feeding increases the yield and quality of fruits, increases the amount of nutrients located in plant tissues.

During the growing season of trees, 2-3 foliar top dressings are carried out: the first - before or after flowering, the second - in June after the excess ovary falls off (at the time of laying fruit buds), the third - in September.

especially foliar nutrition is important urea solution (500-700 g per 10 liters of water) before leaf fall, it increases the nitrogen content in the buds of trees and plants, destroys fungal diseases on leaves and shoots.

With foliar top dressing, macroelements (phosphorus, potassium, nitrogen) and microelements (zinc, cobalt, manganese, boron) are introduced. Sulfur, copper, iron fall on plants partially when trees are sprayed against diseases and pests.

For spraying apple trees a solution is used, which includes 20-30 g of saltpeter, for pears 10-20 g, for all fruit species 150-200 g of superphosphate and 40-50 g of potassium chloride, 2 g of zinc sulfate, 2 g of manganese sulfate, 2 g of cobalt sulfate, 2g of boric acid or borax per 10l. water. All these elements are mixed with a solution of pesticides when spraying against pests and diseases (the toxicity of pesticides is not reduced). If the dosage of the elements is incorrect, there may be cases of leaf burn.

The fact that the picture is not photoshop and not cool 3D. On those same 6 acres, it is really possible to plant a garden that not only provides the family with fruits and berries for the winter, but also gives a significant commodity surplus. How much is a raspberry in the market today? Al renklodiki with the village blacksmith's cam of old times? And one of the indispensable conditions for a consistently successful fruit and berry culture is the timely proper feeding of trees and shrubs.

The wild ancestors of fruit and berry crops have a pronounced periodicity of fruiting. In some year, the branches break from the harvest, then 2-3 years of completely barren crops, and then the yield stabilizes until the next surge. Regular fertilization of trees and shrubs in orchard allows not only and not so much to smooth out peaks and dips in productivity. Without it, fruit and berry crops can "remember" their origin and return to the natural biocycle. In this case, not only the collection from the tree / bush falls, but also the size decreases, the taste and nutritional value of the fruits suffer, the content of vitamins and biologically active substances in them decreases. An experienced gardener will say in this case: the variety is spoiled by an illiterate culture, meaning a plant of this variety.

However, tree crops are in no hurry to live their whole lives in a season, as herbaceous annuals, bulbous and tuberous; physiological processes in fruit and berry crops proceed more slowly and always with an eye to the future, even if there are no special storage tissues in the plant, therefore, feeding trees and shrubs should be carried out more moderately and with more precise observance of agricultural technology. It is impossible to overfeed fruit and berries: the negative consequences of overfeeding will also be felt in subsequent years. Symptoms - again, a decrease in collection, worse taste and less useful fruits, up to harmfulness due to excess nitrates. Which is completely unacceptable for a garden, because. it requires a lot more initial investment than a garden, and you have to wait several years to reach profitability, at least a year for berry bushes. But then a well-groomed garden will provide much more income than a vegetable garden, requiring less routine work. The materials of this article are intended primarily for owners of a small household or country garden who do not have an excess of time and money to hire labor.

Basis - calculation

The garden of the garden is different, and the correct feeding of fruit trees is carried out taking into account a number of interrelated factors:

• Plant type and variety.
• Physiological stage of its development.
• Character physical development and cultivation method (dwarf, normal, luxuriant/tall).
• The type and nature of the soil under the plant.
• Local climatic conditions, general and in a given year.

The formulation, dosage and fertilizer application schemes in accordance with these parameters are summarized in agronomic tables for individual species and varieties or are given in horticultural reference books. It is rather difficult for a non-specialist to understand them, therefore, feeding fruit trees and berry bushes by amateurs in summer cottages and household plots carried out most often according to standard schemes or proven recipes, see below. If the climatic conditions and soil in the garden of the author of the recommendation and her reader are more or less similar, then the garden of the latter will “keep varieties” and bear fruit relatively stably, but most likely not at the highest possible level in this place. In addition, the “folk” recipes for feeding fruit and berries in Runet are also dark, and it’s probably not easier to understand what’s what in them, without experience, than in agro tables.

The purpose of this publication is, firstly, to give the reader information that will help to understand the agronomic tables and, with their help, determine which fertilizers for trees and shrubs of a given species and variety are needed on a given soil in the data. climatic conditions when, how and in what doses to make them. Secondly, to help you understand which of the typical schemes / which recipe is best for your country house, what can be in it, what needs to be changed, and what cannot be changed, based on the available conditions and opportunities.

Actually, the calculation of fruit and berry fertilizers is generally not complicated. Suppose, according to the tables for such and such a variety in certain soil and climatic conditions (for example, the Melba apple tree on the chernozem in the Kursk region or she Simirenko's rennet on the podzol in the Vologda region) in the stem culture, it turned out that the annual need for potassium of a tree of this physiological age (see below) and size is 60 g. According to soil conditions and availability, we select potash fertilizer and in the specification we look at the proportion of the active substance. Let's say it says 17%. Then this tree needs 60 / 0.17 \u003d 353 g of the selected fertilizer for a year. Round up to 350 (better to underfeed a little than overfeed).

Now we take into account that for slowly living arboreal plants, the main filling of the soil with fertilizers should be carried out in the fall. By default, unless otherwise specified in the cultivation manual for this variety, we postpone for autumn dressing, depending on the physiological maturity of the plant (see below):

1. On light permeable fertile soils - 1/4 of the annual norm.
2. On them, infertile (skinny sandy loam, cartilage, etc.) - 1/3 of the annual norm.
3. On heavy and moderately fertile - 1/2 of the annual norm.
4. On the same infertile - 2/3 of the annual norm.

Of the remaining half, we bring in the spring when refueling the soil, and the rest is evenly distributed over seasonal top dressing. For beginner gardeners on ordinary garden land, it is better to allocate 0.5 annual norms for autumn dressing and another 0.25 for spring.

NPK and others

The role of the main nutrients nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium (NPK) in plant life is as follows:

• Nitrogen - contributes to the growth of green mass.
• Phosphorus - necessary for the balance of physiological processes, increases the endurance of plants, their resistance to diseases and pests.
• Potassium - necessary for the growth of roots, the formation of new shoots, the synthesis of sugars in fruits. It also provides winter hardiness.

To the main elements in some modern manuals include 2-valent iron and magnesium. Although plants require them in microdoses, chlorophyll formation and photosynthesis are impossible without them. Copper, zinc, boron, manganese, sulfur, molybdenum, calcium are microelements; they are necessary for the synthesis of phytohormones and other plant biochemistry. As a rule, if the soil is not completely depleted, mature plants get enough of them from it or as a natural admixture to basic fertilizers, especially organic fertilizers (see below).

About foliar top dressing

The effect of "ambulance" for wood foliar top dressing with the main elements does not give. It is possible to feed woody basic through the leaves only in favorable years and always in the presence of obvious signs of starvation on one of them. Also, in favorable years, during the periods of flowering and preparation for fruiting (at the stage of ovaries), it is desirable to carry out boron-zinc-copper foliar micro-feeding (1-2, 3-5 and 30-40 g of active substance per 10 l of water, respectively); for some cultures, eg. grapes, foliar micro-feeding at the beginning of fruiting is required. In unfavorable years, foliar feeding of tree crops should not be carried out.

Together or separately?

They are also ineffective and even harmful for tree fertilizing with complex mineral fertilizers, excluding autumn and spring soil filling. The main nutrients for tree crops must be applied separately at intervals of at least 4-5 days. The sequence is phosphorus, potassium, then nitrogen. In favorable years, phosphorus and potassium can be applied together in well and deeply moistened soil: phosphorus in the soil migrates very quickly, potassium, on the contrary, slowly, so that they themselves separate.

Another exception to these rules is the seasonal feeding of juvenile plants (see below). It is possible and even desirable to feed them with NPK in the form of nitrophoska. South approx. line Kursk-Lipetsk in rather wet years - more concentrated nitroammophos, adhering to the same absolute dosage (in g active ingredients per plant or sq. m).

Stages of maturity of trees and shrubs

Application technique (see below), formulation and dosage of fertilizer for fruit and berry crops significantly depend on the degree of physiological maturity of plants. There are such stages:

1. Sapling - a tree up to 2 years, a bush within a year after planting. During this time, the seedlings are fully rooted. The planting pit is filled with fertilizer during planting (see below); other top dressings are not carried out;
2. "Teenager" - juvenile, i.e. a young, well-established, but not yet flowering plant. In addition to autumn-spring dressing, regular seasonal top dressing is carried out with complete NPK with trace elements;
3. A young tree/bush is flowering, fruiting, but has not yet reached the level of productivity of this variety in the present conditions. The productivity of young fruit and berry experienced gardeners artificially limit by removing excess ovaries. The soil is filled in autumn and spring with full NPK. Seasonal top dressing of young trees is carried out in average and favorable years annually, see below. In an unfavorable year, seasonal top dressing is excluded;
4. An adult plant - productivity has stabilized. The soil is filled mainly in the fall; it is undesirable to force spring refueling at the expense of autumn. Seasonal top dressing is carried out no more than once every 2 years in favorable years;
5. Aging - productivity decreases. The plant is “sent to a working pension”: autumn-spring dressings are made as long as it remains profitable or satisfies the owners’ own needs, and seasonal ones are completely excluded. How to proceed with it - see for yourself, under cutting or for a well-deserved rest as an element of landscape design.

Note: one of the main tasks of a fruit and berry breeder is to breed a variety that “skips” through the unproductive and costly adolescent stage for the gardener as quickly as possible. Therefore, in many cultivated varieties it is weakly expressed or completely invisible.

Top dressing schedule

We will talk more about what, when and how to feed fruit and berries. In the meantime, we note the general features.

First- starting from 1-1.5 years (if planted in spring) for shrubs and from 2-2.5 years for trees, autumn-spring soil refills are done regularly annually.

Second, seasonal top dressing in favorable years is carried out depending on the fertility of the soil and the irrigation of the garden once, twice or thrice:

• Garden irrigated on fertile soil - after the appearance of the first leaves and at the beginning of flowering.
• The garden is irrigated, the soil is medium or infertile - after the appearance of the first leaves, at the beginning of flowering and after the appearance of ovaries.
• Rainfed garden (non-irrigated) - after the appearance of the first leaves in favorable years, while there is excess moisture in the soil.

Third, in special years, emergency (irregular) feeding is possible. For example, it is warm, light, short warm rains are frequent. Plants laid many ovaries; the harvest is coming - you'll lick your fingers, or the cider fermentation tubs will burst. But one fruit needs at least a certain number of leaves; e.g. indoor Pavlovsk lemon - 20. If they are not enough, after the first seasonal feeding, but before flowering, plants can be given nitrogen. Or vice versa, the year is hot, dry, the garden is irrigated. The harvest is supposed to be small, but valuable. Then, during the period of fruit formation (apple ovaries with walnuts, plums with beans, cherries with peas), you can give more potassium or, better, wood ash. It doesn’t come out in quantity - let’s take quality, sugar content.

Note: emergency fertilizing of fruit and berries with organic or mineral chemical fertilizers is recommended to be done only with some experience in gardening. Without it, the plants from them either zazhiruyut, or depleted. Both will “spoil the variety” for years, if not forever. Ash can be fed without fear.

organic or chemistry?

For autumn-spring dressings, nitrogen-containing organic fertilizers (manure, compost, humus) are best matched with the rate of assimilation of nutrition by woody plants in terms of the rate of migration into the soil and the duration of retention of active substances by it. When preparing them for use (see below), organics can be supplemented with phosphorus, but potassium is added separately. Seasonal top dressings, which require potassium and phosphorus most of all, are made quickly digestible mineral fertilizers.

Since autumn, organic matter has been used fresh - completely soaked in a plastic (slightly wet) form; in the spring - in the form of dried crushed sypts. In both cases, the preparation of organic fertilizers takes approx. 2 months The initial mass is laid out in the shade at a distance from residential buildings in layers of 15-20 cm. Each layer is poured at the rate of:

• – 150 g/sq. m.
• – 220 g/sq. m.
• from haulm garden plants– 200 g/sq. m.
• Food compost - 70 g / sq. m.
• Humus - 250 g / sq. m.

Note: organic slurry, if needed, is prepared from sypts, but not from fresh.

It will also be very useful to spray each layer with a 2% solution of potassium humate at a rate of 250 ml / sq. m; potassium in the form of humate is compatible with phosphorus. The pile is brought to a height of 1-1.3 m, covered with earth from above, covered with turf from the sides. The aged fresh on the sypets is dried in a ventilated room; do not dry in the sun. Since autumn, prepared organic matter is brought under the mulch (see below), in the spring under it or in the snow.

siderates

On a small private plot, the most "lazy" and cheapest, but at the same time the most effective method complete filling of the soil for fruit trees in the fall - sowing green manure nitrogen-fixing crops over the entire area of ​​​​the garden. Sow peas, alfalfa, clover. Nitrogen-fixing cereals (rye, oats) are not suitable for the garden: they are photophilous, they will not develop in full force in the garden and will not accumulate many nutrients. In addition, eggs and pupae of pests successfully overwinter in the hollow internodes of cereal stems.

Sow after harvest. With the onset of cold weather, the earth with withered tops is dug up or plowed up. There is no need to mulch green manure, except that on the eve of a snowy winter, you need to sprinkle it with a thin, 1-3 fingers, layer of earth.

In the snow, under mulch or in holes?

As you know, near-stem fruit circles. But - not everything is so simple: slugs, earthworms, mice thrive under the mulch. Worms, of course, are only useful, but moles come to the worm. Therefore, it is desirable to give fruit and berry fertilizers under mulch either in the fall under the cold, or in the order of spring refueling before the heat. If the garden is on level ground, and enough snow has accumulated during the winter, then in the spring it is better to fertilize fruit and berries in the snow: dressing will saturate the root ball more evenly and deeper, and melt water will enhance its effect without the risk of harming the plants. Organics are applied over the snow with the appearance of the first thawed patches.

The conditions for fertilizing fruit and berries in the snow are not always created and are not possible everywhere, therefore, spring refueling of the soil with fertilizers in the garden is most often carried out under mulch. The main question here is: where to get it, mulch, in the spring, did everything get wet during the winter? Non-harmful, non-infested, and non-acidifying soil (see below)? For one way to provide yourself with mulch in the spring, see next. video.

Video: where to get mulch in spring

Another problem is that the most affordable wood mulch often acidifies the soil, which is highly undesirable for the garden. It certainly sours its bark, even if it is dust from the times of Tsar Antipas. Therefore, before mulching, it is imperative to check the acidity of the soil. Litmus paper for chemically impure samples often gives incorrect results, but these days it's easy to rent an electronic pH meter for the day. For ways to determine soil acidity, see the video tutorial:

Video: how to determine soil acidity

Note: to prevent acidification of the mulched soil, it is limed every 5-7 years from autumn under the cold with lime or dolomite flour at the rate of 1 kg per 1 sq. km. m. If your garden is small, not marketable, or its marketability is not of decisive importance, then the acidity of the soil in it at the level of “suitable-does-not good” can be determined by indicator plants, see next. video clip.

Video: plants-indicators of soil acidity

Seasonal top dressing for a novice private gardener is best done by the point method. For large commercial gardens, it is too time-consuming, but safe: even gross violations of the dosage of fertilizers do not adversely affect plants and damage to surface roots by inept digging is excluded. , like a rammer, so that it is more convenient to press.
For spot feeding of fruit and berries after shedding the earth (see below), on it with a peg or mentally mark the contour of the crown projection. Then, retreating 0.5 m outward, holes 30-40 cm deep are pricked with a stake after 0.8-1 m. Fertilizer is applied to the holes, evenly distributed over all, wrapped with earth and topped up with the remaining water. An additional plus of spot dressing is that it stimulates the growth of roots in depth, which makes the plants more resilient and stabilizes the yield of the garden.

Note: for spot feeding of shrubs, holes for fertilizers are pricked linearly between rows.

We feed the plants

Fertilizer of fruit and berry crops is carried out in the evening; preferably on a warm overcast day, but not during the rain. Fertilizers are applied to abundantly moistened soil. The land for fertilizers should be shed an hour or two before they are applied. Approximate flow rate into minimally moistened soil (a lump clenched in a fist crumbles when the hand is unclenched):

• Juvenile trees and shrubs (except hazelnuts) - 1.5 buckets per 1 sq. m near the trunk circle.
• Young trees and hazelnuts - 2.5 buckets per sq. m near the trunk circle.
• Mature trees - 3.5-6 buckets for the same area.

The strait is carried out in portions, waiting for the complete absorption of the next bay. If 10-15 minutes after pouring the next portion, the soil, compressed in a fist, sticks together in a lump with fingerprints, without sticking to them in a continuous layer, then this is a sign that enough has been spilled and fertilizers need to be applied in half an hour or an hour. After also half an hour or an hour after their introduction, they are added in the same order in the amount of 1/4-1/3 of the water to the strait.

seedlings

Fertilization of seedlings, as you know, is carried out at planting, and then they are not fed until they are fully rooted. The method of fertilizing fruit and berries during planting is also known: the pit is filled with a bucket or two of organic matter, then the shovel is filled with earth for half a bayonet, filled with water, planted and watered. With the correct planting, from autumn, the pit is filled with fresh water - it, slowly warming up in winter, will warm up the roots and help the plant to overwinter. Under spring planting(which, generally speaking, is undesirable) the pit needs to be filled with mud: fresh water that intensively decays during the increase in heat can burn the roots. It is useful to add 100-150 g of superphosphate or a half dose of superphosphate to a bucket of sypets, but in this case, the dry mixture must be prepared 2 weeks in advance and let it mature in an open container (not metal!) In the air under a canopy.

Note: landing walnut you need to put a solid granite boulder or fragment in the landing pit so that the growing rod rests against it. Then the first nuts will have to wait 2-3 years, not 6-8 years.

Typical top dressing of fruit-bearing fruit and berry

pome fruits

This includes pears; in the south - quince and dogwood. The peculiarity of pome fruits is that autumn-spring dressings of the soil under them begin to be carried out upon leaving the juvenile phase, after the plants bloom for the first time. The next refueling after the first one on ordinary and fertile soil is carried out after a year has passed; then - after 3-4 years, the older, the less often. On infertile soils, the soil is fertilized annually until it reaches stable fruiting, then after 2-3 years. The procedure for fertilizing pome fruits (without autumn sowing green manure) is as follows:

1. In autumn, after falling approx. 70-80% of the foliage in the soil is applied pointwise at 200 g of potassium sulfate per young tree and 300 g of it under an adult;
2. A nitrogen-phosphorus mixture is immediately prepared: for 10 kg of fresh organics, 300 g of double superphosphate or 600 g of simple superphosphate. The norm of the mixture per tree is 12-15 kg per young, 20-25 kg per adult, depending on the fertility of the soil;
3. The nitrogen-phosphorus mixture is left to ripen under a canopy in a dish covered with a cloth for at least 2 weeks;
4. Under the cold or when the plants "fall asleep" for the winter (the shoots of this year will coarsen, the buds will wrinkle), the nitrogen-phosphorus mixture is applied under the mulch;
5. If green manure has not been sown since autumn, in the spring, in the snow or under mulch, they give fresh organic matter without phosphorus in the amount of 1/4 of the autumn dressing;
6. After unfolding the leaves, young trees are fed with solutions of 30 g per 1 liter of water, or 400 ml of slurry per 1 liter of water, or 150 ml of slurry of fermented chicken manure per 1 liter of water. Solutions are used immediately upon preparation;
7. After flowering, top dressing is carried out pointwise in the wells with a 5% solution of superphosphate at the rate of 30 g of dry matter per young tree and twice as much for an adult. Double superphosphate they are used not only in half the amount, but also in half the concentration, i.e. the dose of the working solution per tree remains the same;
8. After the formation of the ovaries (they have reached the size hazelnut) are fed with potassium: potassium sulfate (preferably), potassium magnesia,. The application rates for an adult tree are 20 g, 25 g and 50-70 g, respectively, for a young tree half as much. Potash fertilizers are applied with 5% solutions, ash - with concentrated infusion diluted 10 times, see below;
9. In especially fruitful years (see below), under the white filling of fruits, they give potash top dressing in the amount of 1/4 of it under the ovary (see previous paragraph);
10. After harvesting, the best way for beginners to prepare trees for winter is to mulch tree trunks with humus, with the addition of wood ash, a glass per bucket, 10-15 cm thick.

In lean years, phosphorus-potassium seasonal top dressing is not carried out. If a harvest of more than half of the maximum possible is expected (over 70-75 kg from an adult tree of varieties of ordinary yield), carbamide is given 1.5 times more, and potash is 25% more. To obtain a concentrated infusion of ash, its dry dose is mixed with water with thorough stirring and washed out for a day, stirring occasionally. Then another day is allowed to settle. Light sediment is ash concentrate; the precipitate is discarded.

Stone fruits

These are plum, cherry, sweet cherry, apricot. The soil for them is dressed in the same way as for pomaceous ones, but compared to the latter, seasonal top dressings have a trace. peculiarities:

• Spring top dressing "for foliage" is carried out at the rate of 10 g / sq. m near the trunk circle for adult trees and 7 g / sq. m for young people;
• In favorable (warm and moderately humid) years, nitrophoska 30 g/sq. m or nitroammophos 20 g/sq. m;
• 4-5 days later, give a 5% solution of chloride (preferably) or potassium sulfate. Seed ions do not like chlorine, but stone fruits are tolerant of it, but potassium chloride is absorbed faster;
• The first potassium top dressing for fruiting (similar to item 8 in the previous list) is carried out when the ovaries reach the size of a pea (cherry, cherry) or bean (plum, apricot);
• Additional potash top dressing is not carried out regardless of the yield in the current year.

shrubs

Shrubs “live faster” than trees, so they are given half or 1/3 of the planting dressing in the pit from what is needed for the tree. Autumn-spring soil filling begins a year after autumn planting or 1.5 years later (before autumn) after spring. The dose of dressing is considered half per 1 sq. m of the projection of the crown in comparison with it for the tree. For example, an apple tree shades 10 square meters at noon in the summer. m, and a bush of 1 sq. m. We divide the dose of dressing for the apple tree by 20, we get the rate of autumn-spring application under the bush; bushes, they are unpretentious and economical. What is important for shrubs - after the first flowering, the autumn filling of the soil under the cold is canceled; it is replaced by top dressing after harvest.

The basic composition of the mixture for seasonal feeding of shrubs in middle lane you can take the same one: for an adult bush 4-5 kg ​​of compost, 10-15 g of potassium sulfate and 20-30 g of superphosphate. Mixtures are allowed to ripen for 2 weeks; the submission schedule is as follows:

1. At the phase of active flowering (first decade of May);
2. During the period of increased growth of fruitful shoots (late May - early June);
3. During the formation of the ovaries (early July);
4. After the harvest.

However, the methods of seasonal fertilization of shrubs, depending on the type of crop, are different; for the most popular berries they are:

• Blackcurrant - fertilizer is scattered under the bushes and dug up shallowly, by 8-10 cm.
• - fertilizer is applied with a tape under the bushes and covered with sand. An option is sawdust mulch, but then you need to control the acidity of the soil once a year after harvesting and, if necessary, carry out its liming.
• Gooseberries are very sick on acidic waterlogged soils, so it is advisable to replace compost with 10-15 ammonium nitrate per bush. The earth with the scattered dry mixture is hoeed no deeper than 6-8 cm. dolomite flour per 1 sq. m. Lime flour is not suitable, because. gooseberries need quite a lot of magnesium.

Last note: shrubs are more responsive than trees to feeding on leaves, therefore, in wet years, forcing their yield foliar top dressing perfectly acceptable and will not harm the plants.

Video: basic fertilizer for fruit trees