How to hide pipes in a toilet

Modern interior toilet room should carry not only an aesthetic component, but also be as comfortable as possible.

The method of laying sewer pipes plays an important role. Few people like exposed pipes in the toilet. Apart from their appearance, cleaning them can be quite a hassle.

To prevent this optimal solution There will be hidden installation.

Depending on the required throughput indicators and technical standards, pipes of the following types and sizes can be installed in the toilet room:

• plastic made of polypropylene. The recommended diameter for connecting the toilet is 110 mm. In this case, the pipe must be directly connected to the riser.

For other plumbing fixtures (sink, bathtub, etc.), the diameter of the supply pipes should not exceed the diameter of the outlet pipe of the device. Traditionally this size is 50 mm.

• cast iron pipes. Currently, they are practically not used due to poor performance, high price and complexity of installation.

When replacing cast iron pipes For plastic ones, it should be taken into account that the thickness of the cast iron walls is much superior to plastic ones.

Photo: piping in the toilet that needs to be hidden

Selection should be carried out according to internal dimensions pipes.
Upon completion of the selection of material, work on the installation of the sewer line is carried out.

Currently, there are 2 types of installation of sewer pipes:

• open. The entire area of ​​the pipes is in the free access zone;
• closed. Pipes are hidden using special structures or the gating method.

Using the first method allows you to save space in the toilet, since there will be no additional structures in it.

With the second method, the pipes are not visible, which allows you to give the toilet a more aesthetic appearance.

At closed installation pipes must adhere to certain rules, failure to comply with which can lead to unpleasant consequences.

Important! Feature hidden installation sewer pipes is the ability to check their condition and carry out cleaning and repair work.

Before deciding how to hide pipes, you need to familiarize yourself with the installation rules.

Rules for hidden installation

• During the design process, it is necessary to take into account the location of water and sewerage meters. You can provide free access to these devices using inspection hatches or a freely removable panel;
• Before starting work, all pipes must be installed in accordance with the standards: have a certain angle of inclination. connecting joints are checked for leaks;
• during installation check valves it is necessary to provide access to their structure for periodic cleaning and checking the condition;
• During installation, structural elements of the pipe that are torn off should not be subjected to mechanical stress.

Compliance with these rules will prevent unexpected problems in the operation of the sewer system.

How to close pipes in a box

Closing pipes with additional structures is the most common way. In this case, you can choose several options for shapes and design solutions.

The construction material can be varied: plasterboard, plastic panels.

How much does a Topol septic tank cost, and what are the prices for installing its most popular modifications? in the article: septic tank Topol.

Installation of water supply from metal-plastic pipes It will become much easier after viewing the article.

False wall

With a relatively large toilet area, the most in the best possible way There will be a false wall made.

It is a solid structure, the dimensions of which are close to the dimensions of the wall.

Photo false wall:

Being at a certain distance necessary to hide the sewer pipes, its installation is done close to the ceiling and floor.

Depending on the external cladding materials used (plastic, plasterboard, tile), the technology and method of installation of the supporting structure are used.

Photo: installation of false walls

The advantage of hiding sewer pipes in this way is the variability of shapes.

Video: Repair of a typical toilet in a multi-storey building

For optimal distribution of free space, the following types of false walls can be used:

Oblique false wall

If the toilet room is small, you can use the method of spot hiding pipes. In particular, riser structures.

To do this, all pipes adjacent to the wall are closed not with rectangular boxes or a solid wall, but with a structure located to the load-bearing walls under acute angle.

Photo: slanting false wall slanting false wall with hatch

When designing this structure, the following recommendations should be followed:

• After installation, the panels should not come into contact with the pipes. This is necessary to prevent the ingress of moisture that occurs on the surface of the pipes;
• size front side false walls must be designed so that inspection hatches can be installed. Perfect option, is a composite wall with removable panels.

Square box

Square design decorative wall the most common and can be the following types:

• box height from floor to ceiling. Hides the riser pipe;
• a rectangular structure with an upper horizontal surface at an arbitrary level (multi-level type).

Photo: square box complex design boxes

The requirements for installation rules for this design are the same as for slanting false walls. This method is optimal when deciding how to close a pipe in a toilet.

Multi-level box

For maximum beneficial use For false panels, a combined method of closing pipes is often used, when square and multi-level boxes are installed.

Photo: three-level box

This technique will allow you to hide all sewer pipes, while maintaining the free space of the toilet.

The horizontal surfaces of short boxes can be used as shelves.

Grooving

Grooving is the process of making mounting recesses for pipes in the wall.

The use of this installation method allows you to avoid reducing the size of the toilet due to additional structures.

Photo: grooved pipes

This method has strict limitations on technical parameters walls and pipes:

• maximum pipe diameter – 50 mm;
• when grooved load-bearing wall the depth of the furrow should not exceed 15% of the wall thickness;
• due to the specifics of the technology, it is impossible to hide the riser and pipe from the toilet in this way;
• It is mandatory to provide for the installation of inspection hatches throughout the entire pipeline.

In modern bathrooms it is almost impossible to find traditional open installation of sewer pipes.

Photo: open pipe installation

Its technology is simple and consists only of observing installation standards - sewer pipes, selection correct diameter pipes and manufacturing materials.

Often, when planning open mounting They are trying to combine sewer and water pipes in one bundle. In this case, it must be observed minimum distances between them.

The most important issue when hiding sewer pipes is the choice of material for making the false wall.

To do this, it is necessary to take into account the specifics of the toilet room - high humidity and small square footage of the room. Let's look at the most popular ways to hide pipes.

Closing plastic panels

Photo: box made of plastic panels

Plastic panels are measured sheets made of PVC. Their main characteristics are:

• thickness – from 5 to 10 mm. The larger it is, the stronger the panel;
• dimensions - length (260 cm, 270 cm, 300 cm and 600 cm) and width ( from 10 cm to 50 cm). The size is chosen taking into account the minimum residues after installation;
• method of joining panels to each other– suture and seamless.

Before starting work, you need to ensure that you have the materials and tools.

Materials and tools

The optimal set of tools includes:

• building level and tape measure;
• a drywall knife or a special saw for plastic. Necessary for cutting panels;
• metal scissors;
• screwdrivers - slotted and Phillips;
• drill;
• screwdriver Will facilitate the process of installing panels.

Glass bathroom sinks with a cabinet are not only beautiful, but also very practical. About this in the article: glass bathroom sinks.

How to clean grease from a kitchen drain pipe, read here.

For an overview of manufacturers of bacteria for cesspools, see the article.

List of required materials:

• plastic panels;
• steel mounting profile – UD and CD;
• floor and ceiling plastic skirting boards, corners - internal and external.
• starting line;
• mounting dowels for fastening steel profiles;
• metal fasteners - hangers. Necessary for installing the mounting profile from the wall plane to the required distance;
• transparent silicone;
• press washers with drill 3.9 x 16.

Before purchasing materials, it is necessary to calculate the area of ​​the future false wall and select the optimal size of panels and mounting profile, taking into account minimizing residues after cutting.

Installation process

Calculate the required distance from the wall before installing the false panels.

Photo: installation calculation

Install hangers on the wall taking into account the location of the inspection hatches. They must be at a distance of at least 300, but not more than 600 mm from each other.

Installation is carried out using a drill and dowels.

After installing the hangers, we proceed to fastening the steel profiles. Bend the mounting ends of the hanger perpendicular to the plane of the wall.

Photo: installation diagram of a box made of metal profiles

Using a level, begin attaching the profiles so that their overall plane is the same over the entire area. It must also be strictly perpendicular to the plane of the floor.

After installation you should get the following picture.

Photo: frame made of profiles

Install inspection hatches in pre-prepared places.

Installation of panels starts from the door, they are installed vertically.

Photo: installation of panels on a profile

Using a drill, they are screwed to the mounting profile with press washers through special shelves on their structure.

To hide edges and corner turns, additional profiles are used - starting strip, plinths and corner profiles.

Upon completion of installation, joints located near sources of moisture can be treated with silicone.

Close the pipes with roller shutters

Photo: masking pipes using roller shutters

Installing a roller shutter into a toilet as an enclosing structure is more practical than installing inspection hatches. They allow free access to inner space between the wall and the false panel.

Materials and tools;

• drill;
• level and tape measure;
• fastening material;
• installation kit for roller shutters;

Installation process

Depending on the size of the roller shutters, they can be mounted on the entire wall area or in separate blocks.

To install roller shutters over the entire area, the following preparatory work should be carried out:

• align the walls so that the distance between them is the same throughout the entire height;
• installation can be done both before and after the final cladding of the remaining walls;

Installation of a small roller shutter is carried out in a structure made of steel profiles, similar to that for fastening plastic panels.

Important! The distance between the profiles must correspond to the required opening for installing the roller shutter.

According to the instructions, the guides and the top box are installed.

Photo: installation of guides

The lamellas are attached to the drum shaft. They must be in the grooves of the guide strips.

Photo: fastening lamellas

After installing the last lamella, the structure is checked for opening and closing. The result should be a design like the one in the figure.

Photo: performance check

However, it is worth noting that installation of roller shutters requires qualifications and experience. It is best to involve specialists for this.

Video about installing roller shutters

Cover with drywall

Drywall, as a material for making a false wall in a toilet, is considered as a basis for cladding ( moisture-resistant wallpaper, tiles, painting).

Materials and tools

To carry out the work you will need:

• tape measure and level;
• drill and screwdriver;
• fastening canopies;
• plasterboard sheets.

For work in rooms with high humidity it is necessary to use moisture resistant drywall. Standard sizes sheets are: width – 1.2 m; height – 2, 2.5 and 3 m. Thickness 12.5 mm.

• mounting dowels and press washers for fastening drywall;
• finishing putty and paper tape for insulating joints.

Installation process

Fastening the frame for mounting plasterboard panels is completely similar to the frame of plastic panels.

Photo: installation of profiles

Markings are made for installation of the steel profile, canopies are attached on which the profile is installed.

Before installation, there is no need to install inspection hatches - upon completion of all work, holes are made in the plasterboard wall equal to the dimensions of the hatches and placed in these openings.

Photo: plasterboard covering

The surface is treated with finishing putty.

Hiding pipes under tiles

The traditional use of ceramic tiles for wall cladding in the toilet is also possible when making a false wall.

Photo: box under the tiles

Materials and tools

To work you will need:

• tape measure and level;
• drill and screwdriver;
• slotted and Phillips screwdrivers;
• steel profile for making a frame;
• fastening canopies;
• drywall or other moisture resistant material, which will become the basis for the tiles;
• tile;
• tile adhesive;
• tile cutter

Installation process

Installation of tiles can be carried out both on a false wall and in the case of using grooved concealment of sewer pipes.

A layer of glue is applied to the surface prepared for installation. The mounting part of the tile is moistened for better adhesion to the adhesive.

Photo: frame for the box

Installation of tiles is done from the corner.

After final installation Inspection hatches are installed in pre-prepared holes.

Photo: cutting holes for hatches

In order not to spoil the aesthetic appearance, you can apply special designs hatches on which you can glue tiles.

Photo: gluing tiles

Video; hiding toilet pipes under tiles

Hiding is possible in several ways:

• installation of a structure from profiles with subsequent cladding;
• purchasing special decorative boxes to hide pipes.

The choice depends on the specific pipeline configuration and room area.

If the decorative box matches the overall style of the toilet, then such installation will be optimal. It won't take much time or money.

When solving the problem of hiding sewer pipes in the toilet, you should adhere to the “golden mean”. The design must be harmoniously combined with the functional component.

How to hide (close) pipes in a toilet

Our comfort is ensured engineering systems, and their component is pipelines, so pipes in our home are inevitable. But their appearance, even when new, just changed, is far from the most attractive. Therefore, there is a natural desire to hide them. Today we will talk about how to hide pipes in the toilet - it is in this small room that there are usually the most of them.

How to line the pipes in the toilet? For example, gypsum board or plywood

There are different ways to hide the pipes in the toilet, but most of methods involves creating walls from different materials. If you choose this method, it is better to replace old pipes with new ones in advance - both water supply and sewerage. It’s definitely not worth hiding old communications behind the wall; then it’s better to choose a lightweight option that will provide access to the pipes at any time.

How to make a box from plasterboard

You can cover the pipes in the toilet by making a box made of plasterboard. This is perhaps the most popular solution. This is because the technology is very flexible; pipes of any configuration can be hidden. Another nice bonus is the multiple finishing options: lay the tiles with glue, level the surface with putty, then paint or wallpaper.

The box for pipes in the toilet can be vertical or horizontal - this does not change the essence

Peculiarities

If you choose to close the pipes in your toilet this way, there are several points that need to be taken into account. The first one is to all key nodes - counters, filters, etc. must have access. It is advisable to have quick access to shut-off valves. There are several options:

• make one panel folding or rotating (hinged);
• part of the panel can be removable, fastened with a pair of screws and/or magnets;
• install a hatch (plastic compound or an invisible hatch under the tile finishing.

You can, of course, make the structure non-removable, but if necessary, you will have to break everything and then rebuild it, and problems happen even with new pipes.

Special hatch for tiles

Secondly, if you are going to finish the tiles, it is better to glue them with a special glue, rather than lay them on a mixture of cement and sand. The adhesive layer required is thinner and its mass is smaller. Under such conditions, it will be easier to remove/lift the cover.

Work order

First, decide what your box will look like. It is advisable to plan everything so that it not only covers the pipes, but, if possible, also carries a functional load. For example, if the pipes run below along the wall on the right or left, which happens if a hygienic shower is installed in the toilet. the box can be made a little higher, and on it top part put various necessary little things.

How to close the pipes in the toilet: make a box from plasterboard

If you are closing the risers that run in one of the corners behind the toilet (the layout of standard Khrushchev toilets), it makes sense to close not only that corner, but to sew up the entire wall, making it into a cabinet. Shelves can be open or closed (with or without doors), but in small apartments this is very convenient.

If the pipes are on the back wall, and the toilet is narrow and long, it makes sense to sew up the back wall completely

Having decided what your box will look like, markings are applied to the walls and floor. Then take galvanized profiles for drywall. Down and on the sides there is a supporting profile - PN (UW) - without curved sidewalls. Since the structures are small, a profile of 50*40 mm is sufficient. The jumpers are fitted with a rack profile - PS (CW) - its width is also 50 mm, and the depth can be small if desired.

The jumpers are cut to size (using tin snips) and secured with self-tapping screws. For a short distance - up to 50 cm - one at each end is enough; for a larger beam, put two. The installation step of the racks is about 60 cm, the jumpers - with approximately the same step. In the place where the door is attached (if provided), a reinforced double profile is installed.

The assembled frame is sheathed with gypsum board, cutting it to size. They are fastened with small self-tapping screws with a screw at the end (TEX 3.5 * 9.5 mm). Install fasteners around the perimeter and in places where jumpers/stands go, a step of 20 cm. When screwing, you need to make sure that the cap is slightly buried in the drywall, but does not break through the cardboard.

After the cladding comes the finishing work, and it depends on the chosen finish. Before painting and wallpapering, the box is completely puttied; before laying tiles, only the screw heads are covered with putty.

What else can you use to make a box for pipes in a toilet?

Not everyone likes to work with drywall and profiles for them. In this case, the frame can be assembled from dry wooden blocks. If desired, they can (and in principle should) be treated with antibacterial compounds so as not to rot.

Instead of drywall, you can use OSB, moisture resistant plywood or flat asbestos cement sheets. All these materials can hardly be called 100% environmentally friendly, but many are more accustomed to working with them. All of them are moisture resistant and easy to process, so they are a good option. By the way, the tile fits perfectly on asbestos, better than on all other materials, including gypsum board.

Make the back wall of the toilet out of plastic

You can hide the pipes in the toilet behind plastic panels. This method of closing toilet pipes is the cheapest, but also the most short-lived. The plastic is easily pressed, so you have to be careful.

Now a little about aesthetics. If the decoration of the walls in the toilet is planned from the same plastic, then there are no problems at all - everything is in the same style. If the wall decoration is different, there are two options - find plastic panels that are similar in color or play with contrasts by adding a couple more details of the same color.

The colors were chosen very well - exactly to match the tiles

It is easy to cover the pipes in the toilet with plastic panels. First, the frame is assembled, but it is already wooden. It is attached to the walls and floor with dowels. Since the structure is small, it will hold up perfectly on nails; large loads are not expected anyway - the plastic can only withstand a very small weight.

TO wooden frame starting profiles for plastic panels are attached, and sections of panels of the required length are inserted into them. They have a tongue/groove type connection and are installed without gaps. The plastic is attached to the frame using staples and a construction stapler. To ensure easy access to pipes for repair or maintenance, doors are made of plastic in the box/wall. In this case, you can install factory-made plastic hatches - they are lightweight and fit well into the style of rooms decorated with plastic panels. Those who don’t like this option can make the doors themselves, making the frame also from wooden planks and covering them separately with plastic. There is another option - leave several slats loose and remove them if necessary.

Finishing the box and ceiling with one plastic is a good idea

When purchasing, choose plastic wall panels (there are also ceiling panels) - they have thicker walls and are more difficult to press through. If you plan to use the upper surface of the box, it is better to place a sheet of plywood (moisture resistant) under the plastic.

Roller shutters in the toilet

The easiest way to close the pipes in the toilet is to install plumbing shutters (roller blinds, roller blinds). This option is ideal if you need to cover the entire back wall. Guides are installed on the sides, a reel with strips is attached on top, that’s all, the installation is completed, you can use it.

Roller shutters in the toilet can only cover part of the wall

The disadvantage of this option is the price of roller shutters. She bites. But at any time you can raise the roller shutter that covers the pipes, and you can repair it. There is another way to reduce the price - install roller shutters not from floor to ceiling, but cover only the central part, where all the connections are located.

You can hide the pipes in the toilet behind roller shutters

Even if you don’t need to cover the entire wall, but only part of it, you can build a wall from gypsum plasterboard or wall foam blocks and attach roller shutters to this wall.

How else to hide pipes in the toilet

IN small apartments every centimeter of space counts and simply covering at least some part of the room is a real luxury. Then you can close the pipes by making a utility cabinet. For this, narrow toilets in Khrushchev buildings are an ideal option.

You can close the pipes in the toilet by making a utility closet

Planks are attached to the walls on both sides, and hinged doors are attached to them. The shelves are assembled locally. They can be made removable to provide access to the pipes if necessary.

What are the doors made of? The simplest option is from laminated chipboard, but you can also order them from MDF. They will be made to your measurements by workshops that manufacture furniture. If you also choose a color to match the main finish or make a cabinet the same color as entrance doors, then you get a good interior.

A very inexpensive way to make the back wall of the toilet attractive is to use horizontal or vertical blinds. There is no hassle at all with installation, the only thing is that you need to find the right size. Then nail the bar to the ceiling, and attach the blinds themselves to it.

Blinds in the toilet on the wall - an inexpensive way to hide pipes

When selecting, it is also important to guess the color - either match the tone, or use contrast. And by the way, plastic horizontal blinds will be more practical in this case - they will not bend if you accidentally touch them. In general, a good option in all respects.

How to hide pipes in a toilet - methods and recommendations

In the toilet rooms of comfortable houses and apartments, sewer risers and various water supply pipes are installed, equipped with various taps and meters. Most often, uncovered communications are laid along the walls, which spoils the appearance of the toilet room. They cannot be removed, but they can be closed or hidden.

To solve this problem with your own hands and without unnecessary hassle, there are many ways that will help not only hide the pipes, but also make the interior of the toilet more harmonious.

Selection of material for closing pipes

The modern construction market offers big choice finishing materials. However, not all of them can be used to hide pipes in the toilet.

You should choose materials that will not corrode or change their shape when high humidity and temperature. In addition, with their help it should be possible to build a compact and lightweight structure.

Finishing materials with similar characteristics include:

• drywall;
• moisture-resistant types of plywood;
• plastic panels;
• simple and refined MDF;
• roller shutters;
• tile.

In order to determine how much material will be needed to close the pipes, it is recommended to draw a toilet plan to scale, mark the location of communications on it and draw various options box location. Thus, it will be possible to understand which of them will look more organic and save more space in room.

In addition, do not forget that when building a box that will hide the pipes with your own hands, you should leave an opening for free access to the pipes. Its dimensions must be such that plumbing work can be carried out freely.

It should also be borne in mind that the box with which the communications will be closed must be made so that in the event of an accident or if pipes need to be replaced, it can be easily disassembled.

How to cover pipes with a plasterboard box

A false wall made of gypsum plasterboard or plasterboard is the simplest and cheapest option for hiding pipes in the toilet. GKL must be waterproof, with greatest thickness leaf.

To build a plasterboard box, you will first need to build a frame consisting of guides and rack profiles. A tight connection will need to be ensured between the concrete or brick base and the frame.

Materials needed to make the structure:

Metallic profile.

Drywall.

Self-tapping screws for metal.

Dowels for fastening the profile.

Putty.

Decoration Materials ( ceramic tile, wallpaper or paint).

• Hammer or drill.
• Level.
• Roulette.
• Screwdriver.
• Sandpaper.
• Putty knife.
• Drywall knife.

It is recommended to start work on building a box with your own hands from the floor. Using a tape measure, measure out a piece of the profile, cut off its length and place it evenly to the floor. Make holes in the floor through the profile with a drill into which to hammer dowels.

Before attaching the profile to the side walls, its location must be determined using a level. To do this, the profile is placed along the edge of the piece attached below and aligned. Use a pencil to mark the line along which the profile will need to be fastened.

If the box is solid, then between the side sections of the profile it will be necessary to install longitudinal ones, to which drywall will subsequently be attached.

After all the profiles are installed, sheets are attached to them. To do this, measure out the required piece, cut it with a knife and fasten it with self-tapping screws. The step between the fasteners must be at least 20 centimeters.

The seams between the sheets of drywall are sealed using putty and reinforcing mesh, which prevents cracks from appearing at the seams. The opening left for free access to the pipes can be closed with a pre-purchased special hatch with a magnetic lock.

After completing the installation of the box, you can begin lining it. An inexpensive and quick finishing option is to paint the box in the color of the toilet walls with water-based or oil-based paint. Don't forget to putty first finished design. However, keep in mind that from time to time it will be necessary to make cosmetic repairs by updating the paint.

Most durable option finishing false walls - using ceramic tiles. This is quite expensive, but at the same time the most common method.

Lining the box with ceramic tiles

To lay the tiles you will need:

First of all, prepare adhesive composition, with which the tile will be attached to the structure. To do this, the dry mixture is added to water in small portions and stirred with a mixer. The resulting solution should have a medium consistency, that is, not too thick and not too liquid.

Laying tiles starts from the floor. First, the lath is laid and leveled, and then the tiles are glued onto it.

To attach the tile, it is necessary to apply it to its inner surface using a spatula. glue mixture and distribute it evenly. The tile is then leaned and pressed slightly against the wall.

Plastic crosses must be inserted between the tiles, leaving a gap of 2–4 millimeters thick. Subsequently, it will need to be rubbed with a special mixture for tile joints.

How to cover pipes with plastic panels

Installation of plastic panels is simple and cheap way closing communications in the toilet. Plastic is a flexible and lightweight material, it is easy to use and has an affordable price.

The panels are attached to a frame, which is constructed from metal profiles or wooden slats. A starting F-bar is installed on the frame using self-tapping screws, into which pieces of the panel cut to the required size are inserted.

Each subsequent panel must be connected to the already installed one using the lock located on the edge of the strip. It is advisable to additionally screw long panels in the middle part with self-tapping screws.

To hide corner turns and edges of sheets, it is recommended to use additional corner profiles, skirting boards or starting strips. The joints of panels that are close to sources of moisture can additionally be treated with silicone.

How to close the pipes in the toilet with roller shutters

Installing roller shutters is a more practical way, as they provide easy access to the pipes. They can be mounted in separate blocks or on the entire wall.

However, installing roller shutters is quite complicated.

Required tools and materials:

• installation kit for roller shutters;
• fastening material;
• roulette;
• level;
• drill.

Before starting work on installing roller shutters, the walls in the toilet must be leveled so that the distance between them is the same.

Roller shutters are installed in a structure made of steel profiles, the distance between which should be equal to the width of the roller shutters.

When installing roller shutters, the guides are installed first. Then the upper box is attached, to the drum shaft of which the lamellas are attached.

Having installed the last lamella, the structure must be checked for closing and opening. It should be taken into account that the lamellas must be located in the grooves of the guide strips.

Since installation of roller shutters requires experience, it is best to seek help from a specialist.

When solving the problem of closing pipes in a toilet, it is necessary to take into account that the functional component must be harmoniously combined with the design of the room. Instead of installing the structure yourself, you can buy and install special decorative boxes designed to hide pipes. The choice depends on the area of ​​the room and how the pipeline is laid in the toilet room.

Seleznev Gennady Antonovich

Any toilet is always a collection of a wide variety of pipes, risers, and faucets, forming a communication network that is directly responsible for the comfort of our lives. But despite such an important mission, all these devices have one significant drawback - their unattractive appearance, which can ruin even the most exquisite interior. It is impossible to remove communications - all that remains is to fight their unpresentability. How? There are many ways to hide pipes and related equipment, but we will focus on best projects– we tell you how to cover communications with PVC panels, roller shutters, drywall and tiles without unnecessary hassle.

Available plastic panels

PVC sheets are one of the cheapest and simple ways masking pipes in the toilet room. Due to its flexibility and low weight, plastic is easy to use, so building a false wall from it will not be difficult. For installation work you will need:

• PVC panels 8 mm thick;
• metal or wooden planks;
• hacksaw;
• metal scissors;
• drill;
• screwdriver and self-tapping screws with press washers;
• level.

PVC panels

The work begins with markings - mark on the walls, ceiling and floor where the frame strips will be attached. The latter should not come into contact with the pipes - a distance of at least 5 cm should be maintained between the frame and communications on all sides. Then, using the markings, fasten the frame strips, wooden or metal, with an average step of 30 cm. Mount remote profile racks, securing them in the ceiling and floor planks.

When the frame of the box is ready, install the starting strip on the lower profile and begin sheathing the “skeleton” with panels. The first sheet must be inserted from the corner into the starting strip and secured with self-tapping screws and press washers. Install the second and subsequent sheets on the frame with a tight fit with the previous panels. Finally, cover the edges of the sheets and the corners of the false wall with skirting boards, and then seal all joints with sealant.

Advice. In two or three panels, depending on the dimensions of the false wall and the nature of the location of the pipes, make in advance a kind of inspection doors for servicing communications.

Practical roller shutters

Roller shutters - maximum practical way hide communications, since they always provide unhindered access to pipes for their maintenance. This type of blinds can be mounted either on the entire wall or in separate blocks. But you must be aware: installing roller shutters is not the easiest task, so strictly follow the manufacturer’s instructions that come with the installation kit.

For work, prepare:

• roller shutters with installation kit;
• level;

Roller shutters

• drill;
• roulette

Advice. Before attaching the roller shutters, it is advisable to level the walls so that there is absolutely the same distance between the blind blocks.

The frame made of profiles is installed first - the gaps between the slats should correspond to the width of the roller shutters. Then the guides are attached to the side slats, and the blind box is attached to the top. Next, lamellas are installed to the drum shaft, using fasteners from the manufacturer, with mandatory fixation in the grooves of the guides. After installing the last lamella, you should adjust the process of opening/closing the roller shutters.

Various drywall

Drywall is good, first of all, because it can be processed in almost any way: a finished false wall can be painted, covered with wallpaper, painted, covered with plaster, decorated with mosaics, etc. Thanks to this, you get the opportunity not only to hide the pipes, but also to completely change the appearance of the toilet room.

To make a false wall you will need:

• moisture-resistant drywall;
• rubber inspection hatches with magnetic lock;
• fastening canopies;
• steel profile;
• screws and dowels;
• drill and screwdriver;
• putty;
• hacksaw;
• level;

Drywall box

• insulating tape;
• reinforcing mesh;
• finishing material.

Installation diagram for plasterboard false wall:

1. Mark the work site - mark lines for the frame on the walls, floor and ceiling. Fix the canopies along the marked lines, and install profiles on them - starting from the floor and gradually moving along the walls to the ceiling. Then install the extension profiles for the racks, securing them to the ceiling and floor strips. Fix both canopies and profiles with self-tapping screws.
2. When the frame is mounted, begin installing drywall - attach the sheets to the profile strips with self-tapping screws in 20 cm increments.
3. Close the gaps between the sheets with putty and reinforcing mesh - the latter will protect the seam areas from cracks.
4. After completing the sheathing, make two or three holes in the plasterboard wall for inspection hatches and install the latter in the resulting openings.
5. Treat the false wall with putty and apply the finishing cladding.

Durable tiles

- a traditional material for the bathroom, but to disguise communications it is used not only due to classic look, but also due to durability. If we exclude the possibility of mechanical deformation, then good tiles can serve in the toilet room for more than one or two decades without becoming moldy or losing its appearance. The tiles are mounted on a special box made of plywood or plasterboard - it is attached to the frame, similar to the previously discussed options for constructing false walls. Don’t forget to also install the already familiar inspection hatches in the box.

Advice. The material for the tile box must be strong to support the weight of the trim, so use sheets of plywood or plasterboard that are at least 12mm thick.

For direct installation prepare the tiles:

• ceramic tiles;
• tile cutter;
• tile adhesive;
• notched trowel;
• sealant;
• tiled crosses.

First, mix the adhesive and prepare the tiles - cut the products to fit the configuration of your box. Next, moving from the bottom corner, begin finishing the box according to the following scheme: using a spatula, apply the adhesive composition to the working surface of the box; moisten the mounting side of the tile; Place the tile against the work surface and press down lightly. Insert plastic crosses between the tiles to ensure even seams. After laying all the material, remove the crosses and treat the seams themselves with sealant.

Here are four effective ways to hide the “web” of pipes in a toilet room and make its interior as harmonious as possible. Panels, drywall, tiles, roller shutters - all these camouflage options are simple to implement, affordable, and attractive in appearance. The instructions are in front of you - all you have to do is make a choice, and you can safely start transforming the bathroom.

Plastic box in the toilet: video

How to close the pipes in the toilet: photo

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How to sew up pipes in a toilet so that household members don’t even know they exist

Before you sew up the pipes in the toilet with plastic panels, read my article, in which I share in detail my own experience in this area. From it you will learn that it is quite easy to achieve a result in which your family members and guests, when visiting the bathroom, will believe that the toilet does not have any connected communications at all. The main thing is to follow some recommendations and be careful when performing installation operations.

Installation work

So, let's look at all the points in order:

Point No. 1: “Marking and sketch”

This stage can be described in three main steps:

1. First of all, I picked up a tape measure and went to the niche in which all the pipes, meters and shut-off valves are located, in order to accurately measure its dimensions.

1. Then transferred the received data to a sheet of paper, noting the future location of the frame profiles;
2. Marked a place for the window. This is very important point in design. You will definitely need to have convenient access to meters and valves in order to carry out maintenance of the water supply.

In this case, the window can be made with one sash, two, or even with a removable panel, and the profiles can be placed vertically. This is not important and is decided depending on your personal preferences and the features of the toilet layout.

Point No. 2: “Selection of material”

I already let it slip above that I used plastic panels to cover the pipes. You, of course, can go a different route, but let's look at a small comparative characteristics plastic with other materials that can be used to solve the described problem, and my choice will become quite clear:

Material	pros	Minuses
Tile	Aesthetic appearance, in harmony with the rest of the bathroom decoration, which is most often also made of ceramics; High water-repellent properties	Difficulty of installation; High price, which starts from 700 rubles per 1 m2; The need for a solid plasterboard frame;
Plywood	Environmental friendliness; Ease of processing, making it easier to create complex designs	Enough high price, which starts from 200 rubles per sheet measuring 1525 by 1525 mm; Some hydrophobicity, which, although much less than that of ordinary wood, can still cause problems during prolonged use in a room with high humidity
Plastic panels	Ease of installation and dismantling work with your own hands; Ease of processing; Light weight; Absolute water resistance; Beautiful appearance, capable of imitating other more expensive materials; Very long service life; Low price, which starts from 100 rubles for a section measuring 250 by 3000 mm	Relatively low mechanical strength

Thus, I came to the conclusion that using tiles is too labor-intensive and expensive, and plywood is not durable enough, and besides, it will stand out against the background of the overall cladding of my toilet, which is made classically from ceramics. As for the only disadvantage of plastic, which is its low strength, no mechanical impact will be exerted on it.

Point No. 3: “Preparation of accessories”

To implement my plan I needed following materials and tools:

1. Plastic panels design consistent with the rest of the toilet design;

1. Aluminum profiles, from which the “skeleton” of the structure will be assembled. As an alternative, you can use wooden planks, but do not forget that wood is hydrophobic, so I personally opted for aluminum;

1. Starting plastic profiles . Plastic panels are conveniently inserted and fixed into them;

1. Inspection plastic door for arranging a technical hole;

1. Fasteners, for which steel screws and self-tapping screws with plastic dowels are excellent;

1. Hammer for making holes in the wall;
2. Mounting type knife or a hacksaw for cutting plastic. For example, I generally used a jigsaw, but not everyone has such a tool on their household;
3. Screwdriver or screwdriver for tightening screws and self-tapping screws. Here, again, it all depends on your equipment, but I’ll immediately note that it’s irrational to buy expensive tools just for lining pipes, so it’s better to use what’s available;
4. Spirit level to maintain the vertical and horizontal structure.
5. Glue for plastic. It will be needed to glue the inspection door frame to the panel.

Point No. 4: “Assembling the frame”

Before sewing up the pipes in the bathroom or toilet, check their condition for defects and, if any, be sure to carry out the appropriate repair work.
The fact is that if at the time of the work you are performing there is some kind of insignificant leak, then behind the constructed partition it will progress to an emergency state, and you will not even notice it.

Here you have a choice to make, which, in general, should be made during design, but I decided to talk about it closer to the description of practical actions. It consists of the following:

• Close communications with one continuous partition, creating a kind of niche for them. This option “eats” more usable space bathroom, but it is more aesthetic and the only correct one if the pipes with meters occupy a significant part of the wall;

• Cover the pipe on both sides with a small box. In this case, you will, of course, save bathroom space and money on materials, but you will create a conspicuous angular appendix. Moreover, this can only be done if, for example, the same meters are in the bathroom and do not interfere with the creation of the box.

I definitely chose the second option, because, firstly, this was the only way to close all communications, and secondly, I wanted to make the pipes truly invisible.

Now I’ll go directly to the description of the work:

1. On both walls, as well as on the ceiling and floor, I first applied a vertical markings for dowels in 400 mm increments, which I controlled with a spirit level;
2. Then he inserted the drill into the hammer drill and, holding the tool strictly perpendicular to the surface, drilled required holes, and then filled them with dowels;

If you have a ceramic toilet, use a special drill to get through the tiles, as a regular drill can destroy them.

1. I measured the height of the room on the profile and cut it, then placed it at the installation site and securely fixed with self-tapping screws, screwing them with a screwdriver through the metal into the dowels. My fasteners fit freely into the aluminum, punching right through it, but if you have problems with this, then first drill the strip in the right places;

1. I install the profile on the opposite side in the same way. Be sure to check the position of the frame elements at this moment building level and adjust them if necessary;
2. I also equipped the corresponding sections of the wall and ceiling, this time guided only by the width of the room.

At this stage, you can also screw in the horizontal “ribs” to increase the strength of the structure, but I did without this step, since the plastic is quite light and does not need to strengthen the “skeleton”.

Stage No. 5: “Installation of panels”

Now the actual sewing of the pipes in the toilet with plastic panels has begun:

1. To all installed aluminum guides I screwed the plastic starting profiles with self-tapping screws, again checking their position with a spirit level. As a result, I ended up with a unique frame;
2. Then I marked the PVC panels according to the width of the toilet and cut them into sections of the required length electric jigsaw;

1. Inserted the first product down, snapping it into the grooves of the starting profiles;
2. From above I inserted the next section into it. All panels are equipped with ridges on one side and grooves on the other, so the process I am describing is very simple;

1. When I got to the place where I planned to install an inspection window, I did this:

• Measured the dimensions of the purchased plastic door;
• I applied the obtained dimensions to the panel;
• I cut out a hole along the lines corresponding to the opening part of the product;
• Glued the frame to the prepared place;

1. After that, I installed the remaining sections up to the ceiling.

Additionally, you can install from inside partitions and soundproofing gasket.
Thanks to this, the noise of water moving through the pipes will not be heard, and their camouflage will become even better.

Stage No. 6: “Demonstration of the finished result”

Efforts should not be in vain, so after completing the installation work, call the whole family and tell them that all the pipes had to be thrown away due to their unaesthetic appearance. If they believe you, it means you did an excellent job.

Conclusion

Communications in the toilet look scary and repulsive, so it’s worth sewing them up, hiding them securely from view. It is best to use plastic panels for this purpose, which are inexpensive, very easy to install and can imitate either tile or leather. Above, I described to you in detail the entire scope of work required for implementation. And, most importantly, do not forget about the need to create an inspection hole.

The video in this article will give you the opportunity to familiarize yourself with some information, which in some of its content is very similar to the material presented. If you have any questions about the topic you read, then ask them in the comments.

Numerous pipes, risers, bends, meters and valves - all this is located in a small bathroom, which is not particularly beautiful anyway. It is not surprising that when doing this, many people think about how to hide the pipes. In this article, we will figure it out and show photos of how to properly hide pipes in a toilet or bathroom.

IN standard apartments As a rule, the bathroom is separate and the bulk of communications such as the water supply system is also connected there, and the water supply is also connected there, and all this is located in the toilet, turning it into a kind of technical booth where the toilet was accidentally installed. In a private house, the situation is simpler and, nevertheless, there are a couple of pipes that catch the eye. There are many ways to decorate them, but before you hide the pipes in the toilet, you need to carry out a number of preparatory work.

Before starting work

When planning a bathroom and toilet renovation, be sure to consider a way to disguise water pipes

First of all, you need to make sure that communications are working properly. Under no circumstances should there be any corrosive areas, much less leaks. Before hiding heating and water supply pipes, it is advisable to insulate them.
It is necessary to determine in advance the location of technological hatches and install main filters for water purification. IN Lately, roller shutters for toilets are especially popular. This option combines a neat appearance and full access to communications.
Be sure to pay attention to the condition of the walls. You need to make sure that there are no traces of mold or mildew on them. If the latter are present, a thorough mechanical cleaning and double treatment with fungicides.

Important! Plumbing hatches will provide easy access to those areas of communications that require periodic maintenance, such as meters and filters.

How to choose a plumbing hatch: access to communications

A plumbing or inspection hatch installed in the walls allows you to maintain access to the main elements of communications. There are several options available on the construction market:

• Finished hatches. Typically made of plastic, they can also be made of metal or stainless steel. Don't need additional finishing.
• Inspection hatches are installed if the question is how to hide all the pipes in the toilet or bathroom under the tiles. They belong to the category of invisible hatches. The sanitary door is decorated with the same finishing materials, which are used for walls, making it almost invisible.
  The frame of such hatches is steel, and the doors are made of gypsum fiber. They are used for openings of different sizes, making pipe routing in the toilet as accessible as possible.

Inspection hatches: plastic (left) and decorated with tiles (right)

• Plumbing hatches for painting are aluminum frame and a plasterboard door that can be painted in any color of your choice. The design does not imply finishing with other materials.

Pipe box: configuration, installation

A decorative box for covering pipes is suitable in most cases. Depending on the location of communications, it can be made in several versions.

• False wall. Simple and quick way hide the pipes if they are located along one of the walls, usually behind the toilet. Of course, the wall will take up at least 50 cm of the already short length of the toilet. But this problem can be solved by installing wall hung toilet, which is mounted on a special module hidden behind the wall.
  The drain tank will also be located behind the wall inside the pipe box. In this case, in order to provide access to important communications elements or to change the coarse water filter, several simple plumbing hatches are installed.
• Sloped false wall. This option is used when thinner branches go in different directions from the nodal riser. The wall in this case is located at an acute angle to the side and rear walls. This option looks interesting, but it will take up a lot of usable space.

Sloped false wall (left) and flat false wall (right)

• Multi-level boxes. In some toilets, if you fence off all communications with a wall, there will simply be no room left for a toilet. In this case, they resort to a multi-level box. Each individual structural element masks a specific section of the pipe. Multi-level structures look very interesting and allow you to functionally use the end part of the pipe box.
• A square box is installed when the pipe layout in the toilet is simple, all pipes and a coarse water filter are located in one corner. It takes up little space.

Choosing material for finishing the box

Typically, the same material is used for lining boxes as for walls. And the most popular, undoubtedly, is. And not only for aesthetic reasons, it is easy to clean, resistant to disinfectants and durable.

Finishing the box with plastic (left) and tiles (right)

In addition to ceramics, plastic panels are laid. They are cheaper and less reliable, but if pipe repairs are required, such a box is easier to dismantle. Sometimes the box structure, made of plasterboard, is only painted, but the option is not practical and durable. In addition, dirt accumulates in the pores of the paint, which promotes the development of bacteria.
Facing stone, brick or mosaic are often used only fragmentarily, to highlight certain areas. Thus, for example, you can highlight a plumbing hatch under ceramic tiles.

Box installation

On initial stage you need to decide on the choice of material for finishing the box. If it is ceramic tiles or, the frame is made of metal profile and covered with plasterboard. For plastic or wood panels with a waterproof coating, the frame can be made of wooden blocks, which does not require additional cladding.
The installation of the box is carried out in several stages. Preparatory work include measurements and marking of the location of the structure, taking into account the thickness of the material. The box structure must be at a distance of at least 3 cm from the pipes.
The next stage is securing the frame elements. When around the perimeter future design the profile is fixed, guide elements lead from it and form an angle. Drywall sheets are cut in such a way that the box for covering the pipes, if possible, consists of separate strips.

Drywall is attached to the profile with self-tapping screws. If further finishing involves painting or wallpapering, the structure is primed, puttied and sanded sandpaper.
Under no circumstances should the so-called inspection areas be closed; they are used for cleaning sewer pipes. They also provide access to the meter, taps and open the coarse filter tap water.

Roller shutters for the toilet

Plumbing modern roller shutters in the toilet are installed if all the pipes are located along the back wall. They are a sheet of lamellas that moves along vertical guides and is wound on top of a shaft protected by a box.

Roller shutters for hiding pipes in the toilet and bathroom

The main advantage of roller shutters is that they are able to provide free access to pipes. Most often, bathroom shutters are attached directly to the wall and ceiling. Installation is carried out both at the initial stage of repair work and after its completion.
Before you begin installing blinds, you need to measure the diagonals of the openings. The difference between the two measurements should not exceed 5 mm. And make sure that the vertical and horizontal slopes are level. The most practical option for a toilet would be a built-in installation, with the box inward or outward.

Important! It is better to install roller shutters before laying the tiles. This way, it will be possible to hide the gaps between the wall and the guides.

Installation of roller shutters

Markings are made on the guide rails. 10-15 cm retreat from each edge of the tire; on the remaining segment, the marks are distributed evenly, in increments of 45-50 cm. Holes with a diameter of 11.8 mm are drilled in the inner wall of the tire to attach the box to the opening.
At the edge of the front flange of the box and its lid, joint holes with a diameter of 4.2 mm are drilled, two on each side. In the future, they will be used to secure the box lid with rivets. Next, a hole with a diameter of 8 mm is identified and drilled in the upper flange of the box panel to secure it in the opening.

Roller shutter installation diagram for sanitary cabinet

Assemble the roller shutter frame (frame and guides) and install it in the opening strictly according to the level. The iron sheet is inserted over the drive shaft from the rear wall of the box into the guide bars. Traction springs are attached to the edge of the web and secured to the shaft. Fix the box lid. Close the holes with plugs. Check the operation of the system.

Advice! Roller shutters for the toilet are usually plain, and this does not have the best effect on their aesthetic qualities. You can make them more attractive and consistent with the finish using airbrushing.

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Rear wall in the toilet: finishing rules

This article is about how you can decorate the back wall of a toilet or combined bathroom. In it I will present several options for finishing and using the wall, and also share my thoughts on in what cases it is possible to hide water supply and sewerage risers, and when this is completely contraindicated.

General information

For Soviet-built houses, the most typical layout is a toilet with water supply and sewage risers located at the rear wall. Steel pipes rust over time; even with regular painting, many years of paint deposits are a dubious decoration for the bathroom.

Time is not so merciless with a cast iron sewer pipe, but even after 20 - 40 years of service it rarely shines with beauty. In such conditions, the temptation to hide the risers by building a light partition between them and the toilet is quite understandable.

Partition? Excuse me, sir

What is this instruction related to? There are several reasons.

Solid partition means complete lack of ventilation. Without her on the riser cold water condensation will form (water vapor penetrates perfectly through drywall and aerated concrete, which are usually used to create partitions). Constant contact with moisture will greatly reduce the service life of a steel pipe.

Not only that: it’s unlikely that your neighbors below will be happy about the wet spot that has appeared on their ceiling and the plaster that has begun to peel off.

In addition, the partition will have to be dismantled when need for access to risers.

There are many reasons for this:

• Steel pipes periodically leak - along the seam of an electric-welded pipe, on thin section welded joint or simply in the place where the pipe was exposed to moisture for the longest time;
• There is such a thing as the planned replacement of risers and water supply lines. Sooner or later, friendly plumbers will come to you and, when they see you, they will be upset and say a lot offensive words to the hapless builder;
• Sewer pipes often collapse under the weight of the pipe resting on them. This requires replacing a section of the riser or at least installing a bandage;
• A leak in the sewer riser can also result from subsidence of the socket in the ceiling. What is especially unpleasant is that this leak occurs periodically, when the riser overflows due to the simultaneous flushing of a pair of toilets or foam formed during washing. Repair work in this case will also require access to the riser;
• For some blockages the only way cleaning - open the riser and remove the stuck object from it with your own hands;
• Finally, on the extreme floors (and in high-rise buildings- every three floors) on sewer riser Audits for cleaning have been installed. They (like, in fact, the risers) belong to the common property of the residents of the house, and free access to them is necessary.

Sometimes it's still possible

Is it really the only decoration that an apartment owner can afford is a curtain on the back wall of the toilet?

Comrades, not everything is so bleak. You can still hide the boners you're fed up with. But with a few very serious caveats:

1. Corrosion-resistant steel pipes must be replaced with material resistant to overheating and water hammer with maintenance-free connections. In houses with centralized hot water supply, only corrugated stainless steel and copper pipe on solder fittings. In buildings with boilers, polypropylene and metal-plastic may be added to the club membership list;
2. The risers must be replaced not from floor to floor, but at least from the toilet above yours to the toilet below your neighbor. Steel pipes rust most quickly in the ceiling;
3. The cast iron sewer riser is being replaced with a plastic one, and all sockets must be fixed with clamps to avoid spontaneous uncoupling;
4. If there is a revision, it is mounted opposite it in the partition Luke. Its dimensions should provide free access to the inspection cover;

1. At the bottom and at the top the partition is supplied with a pair ventilation grilles.

Design options

Apartment

So, how to make a back wall in a panel toilet apartment building? Here are some ideas.

The partition consists entirely of inspection hatches for tiles (euro hatches). They provide access to risers along their entire height. When closed, the doors are completely invisible and are no different from a tiled main wall.

The space near the risers is used for storage washing powder, cleaning products and other household chemicals. High doors and removable shelves allow full access to the risers if necessary.

Another cabinet is made of clapboard.

Variation on the same theme. The front wall of the cabinet is made of lining and coated with furniture varnish. Ventilation is ensured by the gaps between the wall and the door.

This idea can only be approved. Plastic is more appropriate in rooms with high humidity: It does not swell and is easy to clean.

Instead of a door there are blinds.

If for some reason you don't like the idea of ​​cabinet doors behind the toilet, no problem: hang blinds instead. They will hide the pipes without interfering with their ventilation.

A private house

How to make a back wall in a toilet in a private house?

Here, nothing limits our imagination: sewerage and water supply lines can simply be moved to the neighboring Utility room or to the basement.

When installing a water supply system from scratch, you can immediately use materials that do not require maintenance of fittings. In this case, the water supply and sewerage systems can be hidden behind a non-removable partition.

I will share with you the back wall decorations of the closets in my home.

In the photo there is a toilet on the attic floor.

Attic with sloping roof allowed me to use the space between the vertical wall of the toilet and the sloping roof to create a pair of niches from gypsum plasterboard. Shelf covering - tile. Niches are used for storage toilet paper and the notorious household chemicals. The drywall is painted with a “rubber” waterproofing material, making it splash-resistant.

The wall is tiled. The sewage system is assembled with sealant and sealed in a box. It also contains a polypropylene water supply line.

Conclusion

I hope that my recommendations will help the dear reader in decorating his own home. As always, the video in this article will offer you additional topical information. Feel free to share your own experience in the comments. Good luck, comrades!