The unevenness of the ceiling immediately catches the eye and looks ugly. This problem can be solved with drywall. A simplified way is to level the ceiling with plasterboard without a frame. This option is a good replacement for stretch ceilings, the popularity of which has recently increased. They refused to align with drywall mainly due to the fact that it most often requires the construction of a frame, and this requires additional costs and is a laborious process.
The ceiling can be leveled not only with the use of a profile, but also without, provided that it does not have large irregularities.
The frameless method allows you to make the ceiling surface even in a short time, without much effort. It does not require large labor costs, it is executed quickly and gives a good effect of leveling the ceiling, giving it an aesthetic appearance with the prospect of further design. It is possible when the difference in the level of the ceiling in different places is insignificant.
Conditions for using frameless alignment
This option for leveling the ceiling surface is recommended to be performed in rooms with a small area, the height of the ceilings in which is not more than 2.5 m. The value of the difference in the level of the ceiling in different places is also important. It will be possible to use a frameless method only with minor differences in the ceiling, reaching no more than 3 cm.You will also have to abandon it if communications are supposed to be placed on the ceiling, for example, spotlights.
Stages of work on frameless leveling of the ceiling with plasterboard
Work on frameless ceiling lining must take place in a specific order. The stages and sequence of their implementation are as follows:
- preparation of the ceiling base;
- cutting plasterboard sheets to the desired size;
- GKL mount;
- sealing of joints of sheets.
Preparing the ceiling base
Before attaching the gypsum board to it, the surface of the ceiling base must be cleaned of dust, dismantled the old coating, cleaned of cracked plaster, get rid of mold and fungal infections. The areas affected by the fungus are cleaned with a stiff brush and special antibacterial compounds are applied to them.
If the base consists of reinforced concrete slabs, then all cracks and large gaps between the joints of the slabs must be repaired. This will improve sound insulation and help keep you warm. Then a primer must be applied to the surface, which has an antimicrobial effect.
In the case of a wooden base, it must be carefully examined, since the wood is prone to decay.
Rotten boards need to be replaced in order to get rid of the further decay process and to prevent the collapse of the plasterboard ceiling structure when it is pressed on the rotten base.
It is better to treat the surface of the base of the ceiling with an antiseptic in order to prevent the formation of fungi and mold.
Cutting plasterboard sheets to the desired size
When working, you will need both solid sheets and their parts that are suitable in size. Therefore, you first need to outline a plan for the rational cutting of the gypsum board. First, the sheets are marked along the cut lines, which are drawn with a pencil using a rule and an ordinary tape measure. A blind cut of sheets is carried out along the outlined lines from the front side. To do this, use a hacksaw with fine teeth or a construction knife. Then the sheets are slightly cracked, applying a little force, and cut through from the back side. The edges of the sections are cleaned with coarse sandpaper or a special float.
When cutting drywall, a construction knife is used, making cuts with it on one side, and then breaking the sheet and cutting it on the other side.
Technologies for fixing gypsum plasterboards
Fixation to the plasterboard ceiling can be carried out using mastic or polyurethane foam with intermediate fastening with screws. Consider both methods of performing gypsum board fasteners in detail.
Fastening with mastic
To fix the sheets to the ceiling surface, a special mastic is used, which is a mixture of special glue and gypsum. There are ready-made dry mixes that are prepared immediately before application. Often for this they use slow-setting putties with the addition of PVA glue. These mixtures provide good adhesion of the gypsum board to the ceiling base. This method of fastening is not suitable for wooden surfaces, since the gypsum mixture in contact with wood can damage it. It is also not suitable for rooms with high humidity, such as a bathroom.
Consider how to level the ceiling with plasterboard with your own hands using mastic. When performing work, you must adhere to the following recommendations:
It is better to cut the sheets into smaller pieces, for example, in half or into quarters. This will not provoke them to fall off the ceiling under their own weight until the adhesive dries out, and it is easier to perform work with a small sheet size.
When placing the gypsum board on the base, cruciform corner joints must not be allowed. It is recommended to fix them with an offset of half the length of the sheet.
The mastic is applied to the prepared drywall using a notched trowel in small portions in the center and along the edge, then evenly distributing the composition over the edge surface and the central part. After that, the sheet with the glue side is pressed against the ceiling base and held in the pressed state until the adhesive mixture is firmly set. For this, supports are used in the form of two rods, the length of which corresponds to the height of the room.
After the surface is completely covered with gypsum plasterboard sheets and the glue mixture has dried, a reinforcing tape is glued to the seams between the sheets, followed by their putty and stripping.
Fastening with screws and foam
It is advisable to fix the gypsum board to the ceiling with screws on a wooden ceiling. But this technology can be used for other surfaces as well. It is supposed to use screws only for temporary fastening of gypsum boards with their subsequent fixation with construction foam. The technology is as follows:
Drywall mastic can be purchased dry and prepared on your own, it must be borne in mind that the mastic is not suitable for wooden surfaces.
- First, the base is marked, with the help of which the lowest place of the ceiling level is determined. From this place, the installation of the gypsum board begins.
- On the first sheet, attached to the ceiling base, marks are made by drilling in 8 different places.
- Then the sheet is removed from the base and through holes are drilled.
- Dowels or wooden sticks are inserted into the holes, which will serve as the basis for the fasteners.
- Small foam rubber is glued to the inside of the gypsum board as a shock absorber to soften the pressure of the ceiling base. It should be located 10 cm from the holes.
- The sheet prepared for installation is again applied to the base and fixed with screws, which are inserted into the holes and tightened with a washer.
- The horizontal position of the gypsum board is controlled by the building level.
- Holes up to 5 cm in diameter are drilled not far from the screws.
- Then they are filled with construction foam, which, after hardening, will fix the sheets.
- All facing sheets are fixed with foam.
- After the foam has hardened, the screws can be carefully dismantled, and the holes from them can be masked with putty.
Having learned in detail how to level the ceiling with drywall without a frame, and having prepared the necessary tools and materials in advance, you can achieve a perfectly flat ceiling surface, which can be used in the future for design decoration.
Not everyone can, and, moreover, not everyone wants to pay big money to the team for the installation of the frame, which can be applied with your own hands. When ordering plasterboard ceilings in a bedroom, hallway or hall, you will spend much more money on their installation than buying materials in a store. Is there really no way out? Just learn yourself! And we assure you - the plasterboard ceiling is not so terrible, as it is described on the Internet!
Spending only 20-25 minutes of time, you can make suspended ceilings from plasterboard without outside help. Therefore, right now we will be pulling the "piece of bread" from professional installers and screwing this contraption with our own hands!
What is a plasterboard ceiling for?
Many people think that this design is only for beauty. In fact, this is not at all the case and the appearance of the room is the last reason to make a suspended ceiling. Let's take a closer look at why you need to make a plasterboard ceiling.
- Heating savings: you you will pay 10-25% less money for heating, especially for tall buildings. From the ceiling of 320 centimeters (private house, stalinka), you can make 240-250 cm, therefore, do not heat excess and warm air will be closer.
- Ceiling alignment. Some emergency rooms require substantial repairs. With the help of drywall, the problem with the ceiling is solved - you will smooth out any irregularities.
- The problem of laying communications and engineering networks. Sometimes it is easier to hide them under drywall than to cut the entire ceiling and walls with a chasing cutter.
- Sound isolation. The best way to "get rid" of neighbors and retire in your house or apartment. With high-quality insulation, you can even live at the airfield.
There are other minor advantages: plasterboard ceilings allow you to make multi-level structures and dry quickly, which significantly speeds up construction and you can enter a new house much faster.
Ceiling marking for plasterboard - the first stage
Let's start with purchasing materials and counting money. To know how many materials will fly to the drywall ceiling in the bedroom, you need to mark it and calculate it using a calculator. Let us consider in detail how the marking of the ceiling for drywall is done.
STEP 1: calculate the lowest point of the ceiling. You need to take a tape measure and measure all angles. Take the smallest distance as a basis, step back 7 centimeters from above and mark with a marker.
STEP 2: Marks other corners. We take a laser level (it is also possible to have a hydro level, but it is more difficult to work) and "punch" a straight line to the other three corners, draw marks. 
STEP 3: draw a line on the wall. We hammer in 1 nail at one mark, the other at the other, pull the paint cord between them (grease it with a little grease), then take it aside and release it. He hits the wall, leaves an even mark - the line is ready. You can also draw a simple line using a ruler (level, profile) and a pencil. 
STEP 4: fastening the guides. We will start counting from them. We apply a 28x27 mm metal profile and drill holes through it in the wall every 10 centimeters. We take the sealing tape (sold in the kit), glue it to the profile, apply it to the wall and fix it with dowels on the holes made. 
STEP 5: we mark the wall for the main profiles. Drywall has a width of 120 centimeters and there are 3 profiles per sheet, that is, every 40 centimeters (at the edges of the sheets). We mark marks on either side of the wall every 40 cm, draw a line. Draw perpendicular lintels every 250 centimeters (sheet length). The first suspension will be placed at a distance of 25 centimeters from the wall, then every 40-50 centimeters. 
Important: do not forget to make marks on the wall where the profiles will be located under the drywall. This will greatly simplify the search in the process of screwing drywall, because the sheets are large and you will have to perforate it for a long time until you find a jumper in the middle of the sheet.
Now you can safely count all the lines on the wall and multiply them by the length or width of the room, respectively. It is not worth throwing "in reserve", since it is impossible to spoil a metal profile, and even a bent one can be safely leveled and screwed onto dowels. Additionally, at this stage, we need the following items on the plasterboard ceiling:
- Metal profiles 28x27 mm (guides) and 60x27 (main) according to the calculations.
- "Crabs" for connecting profiles.
- Sealing tape.
- Anchors and dowels (for a start, 50 pieces can be taken).
- Level.
- Plasterboard sheets (10 mm, moisture resistant)
- Putty (3-4 bags per medium room).
- Screwdriver.
- Self-tapping screws for drywall (25 mm for sheets of 10 mm).
- Spatula and standard tools (ruler, tape measure, stationery knife, hammer).
After purchasing all this pile (most of the tools are probably already on the farm), you can start working.
The second stage is the installation of a metal frame for the ceiling
The materials have been purchased and now the most boring, but important part of the work lies ahead - fastening the metal profiles and creating a strong frame for the ceiling. In principle, this is not much more difficult than, only in this case, the work is carried out with hands up. Remember that the accuracy of the work depends on whether your plasterboard ceiling will bend in 2-3 years or not.
STEP 1: we attach the hangers of the profiles to the ceiling. This should be done with anchors, since the dowel for a vertical surface is much worse. 
STEP 2: building up profiles. Since 1 profile is not enough for the whole room, they must be fastened. To do this, you need to purchase a special connecting fastener and fasten the profiles with it. The joints should be close to the profile suspension. 
STEP 3: fastening profiles to hangers. It is necessary to evenly raise the profile by 2 edges (an auxiliary worker will not interfere here), screw one, rearrange the stepladder and stick the other edge. Further, according to the mark on the wall (where the profile is located), "grab" the profile over the entire area. We start fastening from the corners. 
Important: never leave the profile without support on 1 or two self-tapping screws, as it weighs a lot and can break the attachment point with its weight or simply bend. At least 2 points in different corners of the profile, preferably 3-4 points.
STEP 4: after screwing the corners, you need to check the profile with a level. An instrument with a length of 250 centimeters will do. If somehow it was possible to screw it crookedly, we unscrew and adjust the suspensions in the required place. 
STEP 5: just like this, we attach all the profiles in the middle of the room, moving from the corners to the center, we attach the jumpers (the junction points of 2 sheets of drywall every 250 centimeters). This can be done with a special metal crab. We cut the jumpers from the profile and fasten them together. 
STEP 6: soundproofing and insulation. If the installation of a metal frame is implied with the installation of a heater and an insulator, then it's time to take care of it at this stage. Cut the mineral wool into large pieces and attach it over the lintels. 
Important: Use goggles, a respirator and gloves when laying mineral wool, it can get into the eyes and cause severe skin irritation.
Installation of a frame for drywall is the most difficult and lengthy process, all subsequent work is done several times faster and will seem much easier (however, they are easier).
Fastening drywall to profiles
When the steel is already hanging on your ceiling, another field for creativity opens up ... After installing the frame from the metal profile, you can proceed to the drywall itself. After purchasing the material, it must be placed at room temperature with a relative humidity of no more than 85%, and allowed to rest for several days. Remember that you can not put the sheets vertically and store in this way- they can deform under their own weight, especially if they were slightly damp. Let's move on to the fastening process.
STEP 1: cut off the edges of each drywall with a clerical knife at an angle of 30-40%, so that later it would be easier to seal them with putty. This only applies to cut sheets, since the glued ones already have such a chamfer initially. 
STEP 2: we raise the sheet (an auxiliary worker will not interfere) and attach it in the corners, then we look for a profile along the line marked on the wall and fasten the drywall there. If you ignored such labels in the first section, you will have to search for the profile at random. It is necessary to retreat from the edges at least 15 centimeters so that the sheet does not chip, remember this! 
STEP 3: we check all the screws so that the caps are flush with the surface of the material, otherwise it will not work normally to putty, and "obliquely crooked, just to lively" will not suit us. 
Fastening GK sheets takes no more than an hour in a small room, since you already have a flat frame and all that remains is to grab them to the profile with a screwdriver. The screw tightening frequency is 20 centimeters.
Seam sealing, leveling and counting of materials
After the sheets are attached, it is necessary to prepare the putty and apply it with a large spatula, make sure the corners are even, so that there is no excess of finishing material at the junction of walls and drywall. If you apply more, you will have to level the corners for a long time.
After the putty dries up (6-8 hours), you can take a trowel or paper and remove all "stains", level the surface and prepare it for finishing. The ceiling can be painted in the desired color, a stretch ceiling, decorative plaster and whatever is needed.
For a room of 20 square meters, you will use approximately the following amount of materials:
- 19 standard-size ceiling profiles;
- 110 hangers (fixing the profile to the ceiling);
- 8-9 sheets of GK 10 mm;
- 10 guide profiles (I am molded to the wall);
- 24 crabs;
- 0.5 kg self-tapping screws for fixing drywall.
- 30 dowels.
Having made simple calculations of the cost of hiring a work team, we can state that we saved 11,500 rubles by making a plasterboard ceiling with our own hands. Whether it makes sense to spend a couple of days and save this amount is up to you.
- The joints of the connection of 2 metal profiles cannot be placed on the same line, they must be done out of order, like laying bricks with a "bundle" in construction.
- The use of a sealing tape significantly reduces the noise level in the apartment, since the sound is not transmitted through the metal.
- Purchase moisture-resistant drywall from a well-known manufacturer, its cost is slightly higher, but you will be sure that it will not be "driven" and the edges will not break.
- Use a screwdriver to screw the sheets, working with a screwdriver is simply unrealistic. Immediately buy an additional battery so that you can work continuously.
- Finishing putty hides only small irregularities so clean and apply the first coat as evenly as possible - it is actually the last.
If everything is done correctly and according to the instructions, the plasterboard ceiling will be no worse than the one that the working team will make and 100 times better than the would-be guest workers will do it at "half price"! We also offer you to watch a video of how experienced builders make a plasterboard ceiling:
An ideal ceiling with an equal surface serves as an excellent decoration for any apartment; its high-quality and modern renovation will radically change the entire interior and transform it. If there are any flaws with other objects in the room, a beautiful ceiling can draw attention to itself and distract it from other imperfections.
What is this article about
Choice of materials
Aligning the ceiling with plasterboard will be an excellent option if the overlapping slabs served as deformation of the finish and provoked the appearance of cracks. In this case, leveling the ceiling is the most optimal, inexpensive and low-cost method that can be done with your own hands in the shortest possible time, without resorting to the help of specialists. It will save not only money and time, but also energy. You can use it if you need to create a ceiling alignment with plasterboard without a frame or with a frame.
The leveling base of the ceiling can be plaster, tension structures, as well as drywall. The use of the first 2 options entails some difficulties, for example, plaster is applicable only if the irregularities do not exceed 5 cm, while its use is quite laborious, takes a lot of time and effort, and stretch ceilings often do not allow working alone. Drywall is the most convenient and practical option.
Drywall is great for DIY ceiling leveling. Its installation is many times easier than working with plaster.
Also, there is an option for leveling the plasterboard ceiling without using a metal frame, however, this method has its own characteristics and limitations, which we will talk about at the end of the article.
How to calculate the required materials?
To carry out a high-quality leveling of the ceiling, it is worth choosing, purchasing and preparing all the necessary materials and tools in advance so that everything is ready by the beginning of the first stage of work. This will significantly reduce the installation time.
*Attention! All results are approximate - accuracy depends on wall material, condition and shape of the room
For self-calculation, follow the instructions below. Aligning the ceiling with plasterboard involves the following material consumption:
- sealing tape - the quantity fully corresponds to the perimeter of the room;
- dowel - 0.7 pcs.;
- screws - 23 pcs.;
- suspension rod - 0.7 pcs.;
- rake with a clip - 0.7 pcs.;
- extension for profiles - 0.2 pcs.;
- reinforcing tape - 1.2 running meters;
- PN profiles (60x27 and 28x27) - fully corresponds to the perimeter of the room;
- profile connector - 1.7 pcs.;
- fixing dowel - 3 pcs.
Preliminary marking and drawing of the ceiling
Aligning the ceiling with plasterboard requires the presence of a drawing pattern of the surface to be leveled. It will clearly show how the sheets will be located on the finished ceiling, it will also be possible to see at what distance the drywall panels will be from each other (it should be noted that it should be at least 1 step of the bearing profile).
The sheet itself is presented in a size of 1200 mm, which allows you to create distances of 60 cm. Having created the most accurate drawing, you can do all the work as quickly as possible, efficiently, and most importantly on your own.
How to level the ceiling with plasterboard? To begin with, you need to make the correct marking of the ceiling, for this you need to indent 15 cm from the ceiling and make a note for further drawing a horizontal line, using a bubble level. The line should run along all the walls of the room (if its end was connected to the beginning, then it was drawn correctly).
The next step is to install screws along the length of the resulting line, while you will need to pull the rope, which will serve as a guide and ensure the creation of a perfectly flat ceiling in the room. You will also need to mark several places necessary for the further installation of the profiles, they should be at a distance of 60 cm from each other. it is ideal for fixing plasterboard panels with a width of 1200 mm.
How to assemble and install the structure?
The leveling of the ceiling with plasterboard depends to a greater extent on the quality of the frame, because the final result of the installation will depend on it. It will also affect the appearance of the ceiling. What are the stages of assembly and installation of the structure?
- Fastening profiles is a procedure performed along a line that was previously marked on the wall. It should be noted that every 45 cm a hole must be drilled so that the bottom of the profile can touch the line. After that, you need to fix the profile using a screw and a dowel.
- Fastening suspensions. When performing this procedure, it must be remembered that the distance between them should not exceed 60 cm. It also involves the use of a dowel and a screw.
- Fastening the CD profile - it is attached to the previously installed hangers, but before that it must be shortened by 5 mm, which will ensure its easy and problem-free installation into the UD profile.
Electrical wiring
Since any room requires lighting not only by daylight, natural, but also by evening artificial light, it is worthwhile long before installation to decide on the installation locations of the lighting devices and see which chandelier will look as effective as possible at a certain point on the ceiling. In other words, it is necessary not only to level the ceiling drywall, but also make electrical wiring. If the room is large enough, you need to mark places for placing several lighting fixtures.
To install chandeliers and lamps, you need to create holes. Experts advise you to mark these places even before installing the drywall sheets, because it is much easier to do this in advance than when the repair is completed. If it was not possible to mark them in advance, this can be done after installation, using special nozzles for a perforator.
It is worth noting that the electrical wiring is carried out before the start of all repair work, here, unfortunately, you need to have special knowledge and skills, therefore it is recommended to seek help from specialists. In this case, it will only be necessary to control the process so that the workers stretch the wires exactly where the lighting devices should be installed.
After the electrical wiring is carried out, all wires must be secured with corrugated pipes so that water cannot get on them. After that, you can start leveling.
Drywall cutting
Before abruptly, it is imperative to create a layout that will allow you to cut sheets of the ideal size. In order for the installation to be of high quality, the preliminary marking should be drawn on paper, here it is worth noting that the formation of cruciform joints should not be allowed, they should be staggered, because this is the method that contributes to the creation of a perfectly flat ceiling surface.
When working, you need to remember that the step should be in the range from 10 to 20 cm, while all the plates must be fixed on 2 or more profiles.
In the middle of the ceiling, you need to create an insert, and lay the sheets around the edges of the room, before proceeding with this stage, you need to make sure that all the drywall sheets are prepared and have the correct size.
To make the correct cut of the sheets, you can use a special knife, which is carried out several times along the drawn line, after which the structure breaks, and the uneven edges are leveled with a plane.
To proceed to the next stage of finishing, you need to enlist the support of an assistant who will ensure well-coordinated work on leveling the ceiling surface, because it will be extremely difficult to cope on your own.
Plasterboard fastening
Here you need to agree with your partner who will hold the sheet and who will fix it. You need to take the prepared sheet and lift it to the installation site, which is carried out using self-tapping screws, which are recommended to be installed at a distance of 25 cm from each other (the head should be slightly recessed in the drywall sheet).
When fixing the sheets, it is necessary to remember that it is imperative to leave gaps of about 5 mm, they help to protect against cracks.
The final stage is the putty and painting of the ceiling surface, before that you need to glue all the joints with tape and putty the entire ceiling. This method is good in that it effectively covers up all the irregularities, joints and screws. After that, you need to wait for the putty to dry and clean it up so that the surface takes on a perfectly smooth and even appearance. The ceiling can be painted if desired.
Aligning without using a wireframe
Plasterboard can be fixed to surfaces without first installing the battens. This is done with glue. If this method is closer to you, then you need to know some features:
- Drywall cannot be glued to the surface, from which pieces fall off, for example, old plaster;
- The glue does not adhere well to smooth paint, smooth concrete, in this case it is necessary to make notches in the places of gluing;
- Do not glue gypsum plasterboard in unheated rooms or on surfaces that can freeze through in winter;
- The surface must be dry;
- Degrease the ceiling;
- Prime the ceiling first.
If all of the above has been done, you can start gluing. There is a special glue, it looks like this.
Apply glue pointwise. And apply firmly to the surface.
If the ceiling is very crooked, we still recommend working with a frame, but if you still decide to work with drywall without a frame, then you will have to put something under the places where there are strong dips, screwing or again gluing to the ceiling so that the finishing sheet lay flat.
The ceiling is one of the most visible places in the room. Alas, the unevenness and defects of the floor cannot be hidden under the putty and finish. Aligning the ceiling with plasterboard will help to save the situation. Learn more about the installation technology and the rules for choosing high-quality gypsum boards.
The content of the article:
There are several ways to level a curved ceiling surface. To achieve perfect evenness and smoothness, you can use traditional plaster, modern stretch fabrics or such a "universal assistant" as drywall. The first option is good only with slight differences between the concrete floor slabs, the second is quite expensive and specific in terms of installation. That is why the most practical, affordable and effective leveling of the ceiling with plasterboard is considered.
Benefits of using drywall to level the ceiling
The advantages of using drywall to level a defective ceiling are as follows:
- Correction of the ceiling surface of any curvature;
- Placement of electrical wiring, ventilation ducts, plumbing fixtures and other communication elements in the ceiling space;
- Construction of both single and multi-level structures;
- Application in kitchens, bathrooms and other rooms with high humidity;
- Do-it-yourself installation work without the involvement of hired builders.
How to choose drywall for your ceiling?
Experts recommend purchasing gypsum plasterboard (GKL) for interior work not in spontaneous markets, but in large retail chains that specialize in the sale of high-quality construction products.
When buying drywall, it is important to pay attention to the following details:
- Marking... The best option for leveling the ceiling is moisture-resistant sheets marked with gypsum plasterboard. They are resistant to humidity and temperature changes, easy to cut and flexible to install.
- Dimensions (edit)... On sale there are gypsum plasterboards with a thickness of 6 to 12.5 mm. For the correction of curved surfaces, it is recommended to use a 9 mm thick gypsum board.
- Appearance... Before buying, carefully examine several samples from the pallet - high-quality drywall is distinguished by the absence of dents, scratches, cracks and other mechanical defects. In this case, the dimensions of each panel must strictly correspond to the manufacturer's declared dimensions.
On a note! You can calculate the exact number of plasterboard sheets and related accessories required to level the ceiling using special online calculators posted on professional construction portals.
Plasterboard ceiling leveling technology
The whole process of self-leveling the ceiling using gypsum board consists of several successive stages. Let's take a closer look at each of them.
Preparatory work before leveling the ceiling with plasterboard
Before directly leveling the ceiling, a number of preparatory work should be carried out:
- In order to increase heat and sound insulation, all cracks and joints in the concrete floor are carefully sealed with a rough putty. A number of mandatory preliminary works include the removal of all mold stains and deposits. The affected areas are cleaned with a stiff brush and treated with special antibacterial compounds.
- A wooden base ceiling also needs some preparation. First of all, it is cleaned of old finishes and plaster, then the defective areas are repaired. Otherwise, the wooden floor may not support the weight of the plasterboard structure.
Ceiling marking for leveling with plasterboard
At the next stage of work, it is necessary to correctly mark the base ceiling. To do this, using a bubble or hydraulic level, you should determine the lowest place on the ceiling surface and, starting from this starting point, outline the room around the perimeter with a chokline (dye thread).
Ideally, the start and end of the wall loop should match. If the laid line does not converge at a single point, it is most likely that mistakes were made during the marking.
For convenience, several screws are screwed in along the outlined contour, and a strong twine is pulled between them. Such a visual reference will allow you to additionally control the level of horizontality during subsequent installation work.
Installation of a frame for attaching drywall to the ceiling
The construction of a frame system is one of the main stages in the process of arranging a plasterboard ceiling. Strength, durability and appearance of the structure directly depend on it.
Fastening of frame elements is carried out in the following sequence:
- First of all, a guide profile is installed around the perimeter of the room. It is important to fix this plank in such a way that its bottom is flush with the wall markings. The length of the wall profile is adjusted during installation, based on the size of the room. If necessary, the bar is cut with special scissors or a grinder with a metal circle attachment.
- To fix the guide profile, use plastic dowels and hammer screws. Holes in the wall for the dowels are drilled with a puncher. The optimal spacing between fasteners is 40-45 cm.
- After that, suspensions are attached to the base ceiling, maintaining a step of 55-60 cm between them. The same dowels and screws are used as fasteners. To avoid the formation of "sound bridges", a sealing tape is laid between the concrete floor and the suspensions.
- Then proceed to the installation of the longitudinal profile. Fitted slats are inserted into the guides and attached to the hangers using self-tapping screws. Further, the structure is reinforced with transverse profiles.
At the end of the installation, the quality of the work performed must be checked: all fasteners must be adjusted and tightened, and the frame lathing must be fixed.
Laying of communications when leveling with plasterboard
The intermediate stage between the arrangement of the frame structure and its cladding is reserved for laying heat and sound insulating material and installing electrical wiring and other provided communications.
It is important to think in advance about the placement of the lighting fixtures and make the corresponding holes for them in the cladding sheets. To cut round holes in drywall, it is advisable to use a drill / perforator with a crown attachment, for curly holes - a hand hacksaw.
Cut drywall to level the ceiling
In the process of leveling the ceiling with plasterboard, you have to work both with solid sheets and with their segments. Therefore, it is important to pay special attention to the marking and cutting of the gypsum board:
- First, marks are made on the sheets corresponding to the schematic sketch with the help of a tape measure and a pencil, then they proceed to direct cutting of the material.
- It is most convenient to cut drywall on a flat horizontal surface, for example, on the floor or on a table, and the sheets are laid back on the working base.
- GKL cutting is performed on the front side. A two-meter rule is applied to the previously indicated marks and a single cut is made strictly along its edge with a fine-toothed hacksaw or a construction knife.
- Next, the material is carefully cracked along the notch line and finally cut from the back. The cut edge is cleaned with a roughing plane or a special float.
Plasterboard ceiling sheathing
At the stage of attaching drywall to the frame, it is recommended to enlist the support of an assistant and act as follows:
- The first supports the sheathing sheet at the required height, the second fixes it to the frame structure using self-tapping screws.
- Fasteners are screwed into the gypsum board at a right angle, while the heads of the screws should be buried in the facing sheet by 1-2 mm. Mistakenly installed self-tapping screws are carefully removed and replaced with new ones, fixing them at a distance of 4-6 cm from the previous ones.
- Compensation gaps of 3-5 mm are left along the perimeter of the room between the leveling cladding and the walls. A similar distance is maintained between adjacent sheets.
- At the end of the installation, they proceed to the finishing of the gypsum plasterboard ceiling: the leveled base is primed, the joints are glued with reinforcing tape, filled with putty and, after drying, polished with fine sandpaper.
Frameless leveling of the ceiling with plasterboard
Leveling the ceiling with plasterboard without a frame is advisable only in small rooms and with slight differences (up to 3 cm) between concrete floor slabs. In this case, the gypsum board is attached to the ceiling surface using special gypsum-based adhesives.
The order of leveling the ceiling is as follows:
- Before directly attaching the drywall, the ceiling base is thoroughly cleaned of old finishing materials, plaster, mold lesions and dust. Next, the prepared surface is covered twice with a primer mixture with antimicrobial action.
- Then they start cutting the gypsum board according to the preliminary sketch plan. Drywall scraps are used to construct a kind of sheathing. To do this, the remnants of the leveling material are cut into strips 8-10 cm wide and alternately glued to the ceiling in the form of a mesh net.
- After that, using a notched trowel, a layer of adhesive is applied to the ceiling surface. Immediately after applying the glue, they begin to fix the gypsum board, while the material is pressed as tightly as possible to the base.
- After complete drying, the plasterboard ceiling is covered with deep penetration soil. The seams between the sheets are first glued with a reinforcing tape, then they are sealed with a putty mixture and cleaned with fine-grained sandpaper. The ceiling is now ready for subsequent finishing work.
Note! It is most convenient to control the process of installing drywall for horizontality in small rooms using a rule with a built-in bubble level.
How to level the ceiling with plasterboard - watch the video:
As you can see, leveling the ceiling with plasterboard with your own hands is a simple task, but it requires knowledge of certain technical nuances and installation rules. After familiarizing yourself with them, even a novice home craftsman can transform a defective ceiling base.
The ceiling surface in any room is always in the spotlight and the overall design of the room depends on the accuracy of its finishing. The slightest irregularities and joints immediately become noticeable, so the question of how to level the ceiling is relevant for many residents. For leveling, you can use either a stretch ceiling. But the putty is suitable only for minor differences and surface defects, and the stretch ceiling is quite difficult to install. An inexpensive and practical way is to level the ceiling with plasterboard.
The advantages of leveling the ceiling with plasterboard:
- allows you to get a perfectly flat surface;
- suitable for a plane with any curvature, drops and slab joints;
- provides an opportunity to lay electrical wiring in the interceiling space, mount ventilation equipment and other communication structures;
- easy to install - you can mount a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands without using expensive special tools;
- allows the construction of multi-level ceiling structures;
Choosing the optimal plasterboard for the ceiling
What you should pay special attention to when buying gypsum plasterboard:
- Sheet marking. All brands of gypsum plasterboard are suitable for the ceiling, but for damp rooms, you should use moisture-resistant plasterboard, labeled. Such material is not afraid of humidity, resistant to temperature changes, conveniently cut and easily assembled.
- Material thickness. For lining the ceiling, drywall with a thickness of 6.5 mm is considered optimal.
- The integrity of the product. During an external examination, there should be no defects: dents, cracks and other mechanical damage. The dimensions of high-quality sheets exactly correspond to the dimensions set by the manufacturer.
Methods for attaching the gypsum board to the ceiling
For the installation of drywall on the ceiling, a frame and frameless method of fixing the sheets is used. The frame structure is robust and durable.
Fastening gypsum crate to a frame from a profile
Let's consider how to install it on the ceiling after carrying out preparatory operations. When installing the ceiling frame, the profile guides are mounted along the perimeter of the plane. For reliable fixation of the drywall profile, dowels and screws are used, which are clogged. The most optimal distance between the holes for attaching the rails is considered to be 400-450 mm.
They are mounted to the profiled elements with a step of 600 mm. Before leveling the ceiling with plasterboard, at the last stage, longitudinal bearing profiles are installed, attached to the suspensions. The entire structure can be reinforced at 500 mm intervals with transverse profiled elements. The lintels are fastened with "crabs". Plasterboard sheets are fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws, the caps of which are recessed by 1 mm into the sheet.
Frameless fastening method
Leveling the ceiling with plasterboard without a frame is an effective way for small surfaces with minimal irregularities, in which the differences between the floor slabs do not exceed 3 mm.
Before sheathing the ceiling with drywall without a frame, old peeled plaster, mold and dust are removed. After application, the drywall is fixed using a special glue. It is used for applying the adhesive. To glue the gypsum board, it must be firmly pressed against the ceiling base.
After installing the gypsum board before finishing:
- sheets are coated with a thin layer of primer;
- joints for tightness are glued with a special one;
- putty is applied;
- after drying, the surface is sanded with fine sandpaper.