The modern metal-plastic version of the balcony door and window creates a wonderful view and comfortable conditions. Installation of a balcony block consists of a number of simple operations, requires attention to detail, but in general, the process is simple. This work can, if desired, be done by a person who does not have professional skills in this area.
PVC balcony block consists of balcony door and window... There are different variations of this combination. For example, a window is located to the right or left of a door. Possible option: balcony door between two windows.
Each of the elements of the block can, in addition to the swing opening mechanism, also have a folding one. There are also blind windows that cannot be opened.
The kit includes:
- slopes,
- low tide,
- threshold,
- windowsill,
- accessories.
If we consider what a balcony door consists of, it is a frame and a door leaf. The window has a frame and sash.
Preparatory work
It is necessary to free space from unnecessary things and furniture so that you can install a new structure, cover with a film what cannot be taken out of the room, in order to avoid the ingress of construction debris and dust.
To carry out the installation of a balcony block, you should prepare a place for it by dismantling the old structure.
- They remove the sashes of the windows and the door leaf.
- To remove the wooden frame, cut it at the bottom with a hacksaw. After that, remove in parts from the opening, prying with an assembly crowbar.
- Remove the plaster from the slopes, if any, using a perforator.
- Clean off the remnants of seals, insulation, and polyurethane foam from the surface of the opening using a brush.
If the previous design was also a metal-plastic balcony block, then its dismantling begins with the removal of all fasteners, screws, linings from the frame after removing the inside of the doors and windows.
The opening should be freed from finishing to the main wall.
Step-by-step installation of a balcony block
To work on installing a balcony door and window, you will need tools:
- Bulgarian,
- foam gun,
- jigsaw,
- roulette,
- screwdriver,
- level,
- puncher,
- rubber mallet.
- drill,
- stationery knife,
- hammer,
- square,
- marker,
- scissors for metal,
- mount.
Assembling the balcony block
Before installing the plastic balcony block, you should connect the door structure and the window into one whole. To do this, you need to put a window block with a balcony door on the upper sides, dock the side parts. Between them should be placed connecting strip... It is necessary to check carefully that the upper sides of the frames that are on the floor are in line. For this operation, you must select a flat surface.
Advice: If the window has a movable sash, it must be removed for convenience during installation. In the door balcony block, you need to remove the door from the hinges.
The two sets are connected with screws. For them, holes are made in advance at a distance of thirty centimeters from each other in the frame of the door block and they begin to twist the structures from its inner side. After that, a single balcony block is obtained.
Choosing fasteners
The balcony unit can be attached using:
- pegs,
- anchor plates,
- anchor bolts.
Each type of attachment has its own advantages and disadvantages and can be chosen for the job.
Tip: Select anchor plates for fastening. In this case, it is possible to carry out the installation without separating the frames and double-glazed windows.
Preparing the balcony block for installation
Mounting plates are fixed on the two lateral and upper horizontal surfaces of the frame. They are attached with screws. Fifteen centimeters retreat from the corners of the structures and the plates are installed so that they are turned towards the inner side of the block. Between the extreme plates, intermediate plates must be attached at a distance of 50 ÷ 70 cm from each other. in the middle of the block width into the profile recess.
PSUL tape is glued along the perimeter of the block from the outer edge. It is a sealing element prescribed by the regulations in order to protect the polyurethane foam from moisture and UV rays.
If provided, at this stage brackets are screwed onto the window for its fastening. They try on the mesh so that it evenly covers the opening, outline the places for installing the brackets and attach them with screws.
Installation sequence
Consider how to install a balcony block with your own hands:
- If the kit includes a threshold, then you can immediately start installing the block. If it is absent, you should also start the installation from it.
It is recommended to use plastic mounting wedges rather than wooden ones - The unit is placed on stands (mounting wedges), which remain in place after the end of the work, cannot be removed. They are provided for each vertical block element. In order to orient the structure in space strictly vertically and horizontally (transverse elements), stands of different heights are used.
- Temporary fixation in the opening is also done using mounting wedges.
- Check the level of the correct location in the planes: horizontal and vertical. Wedges are used to correct errors... It is convenient to use them as paired elements. The building level is placed on the horizontal element of the block. If necessary, correct - hammer the wedges in the desired direction with a hammer. After that, a level is applied to the vertical component of the block and its location is adjusted with wedges, which are installed on the left and right between the block and the wall.
- Now fix the block by fixing pre-prepared plates... They are neatly unbent and pulled up to the wall so as not to move the block verified in space. To fasten the plate through the hole of one of them, drill a hole in the wall with a perforated drill, eight centimeters deep.
Use a screwdriver to screw a screw into this hole, attaching the plate to the wall. And so all the prepared mounting plates are sequentially fastened.
Installation of an ebb for an open balcony
- From the workpiece, the ebb is cut off with scissors for metal along the outlined line, a part that corresponds to the width of the window.
- From the side of the balcony, a drain pattern is installed, screwed to the profile from the mounting kit.
- On the outside of the window opening, you can, if desired, install decorative corners. The gaps between the drain and the wall are filled with sealant on both sides.
Sealing the gaps with polyurethane foam
In accordance with the standards, the upper horizontal seam should not exceed twenty millimeters in width, and the side seams between the block and the wall can be up to fifty-five millimeters, depending on the size of the structure. From the side of the premises it is necessary fill the gaps with polyurethane foam, leaving one third of the space free... This will be the technological gap that the foam will occupy after solidification and expansion.
In order for the foam to go through all the necessary technological stages, the seams are left alone for a day. After that, the excess of frozen foam is cut off with a special knife. A high-quality seam should not have voids in its structure.
Installation of additional parts
Do-it-yourself installation of the balcony block is almost complete. It remains to finalize the details.
Window sill device
The sill is adjusted in size so that it fits well under the window. Its width should allow it to be pushed two centimeters behind the window frame when installed.
Bars should be made from pieces of wood, which are placed under the part to be installed in order to avoid its deflection. The bars are sized to provide a two-degree tilt angle of the window sill.
A load is placed on the element, and then the joints are filled with polyurethane foam. The load is needed so that the solidified foam does not lift the structure.
Filling the joints of the window sill:
- first at the junction with the window,
- lateral sides,
- under the windowsill at the junction with the wall, but not at the very edge.
After a 24-hour technological break, you can remove the load.
Internal slopes
Slopes on the balcony block can be plastered or a decorative detail can be installed - special internal slopes. Sandwich panels are often included. They will make the appearance of the slopes modern and aesthetic, in addition, they will insulate the opening .. You will find the answer to it in our article.
Councils for the organization of lighting on the loggia. You will learn how to conduct electricity to choose the right lamps.
Sequence of work:
- Pieces of the starting profile are prepared according to the size of the length of the upper frame and side surfaces.
- The workpieces are fastened with screws along the perimeter of the block from three sides.
- Measure the required dimensions for the top panel and side pieces.
- Cut the panels to the desired size.
- The panels are inserted into the screwed start profile, first the top part, and then the side elements.
- One edge of the panel turns out to be fixed in the profile, and under the part of the panel protruding into the room, a small amount of foam is sprayed into the gap between the element and the wall, slightly bending the structure and then pressing it into place against the wall. Until the foam hardens, the slopes at the design positions are held with masking tape. After a daily break, the tape is removed, the excess foam is cut off.
Decorative platbands
- Platbands (F-profiles) of the required size are harvested.
- Parts are put on the ends of decorative panels; in the corners, a forty-five-degree connection should be made.
- The joints of the side and top panels, as well as the bottom of the side decorative elements with the window sill, are sealed with silicone sealant.
Installing a balcony video block
Here is a video on the topic of our article on how to install a balcony block yourself. In it you will find useful tips from professionals.
Plastic windows can be found today in almost every home. But the installation of the structure is half the battle, because you still need to make the slopes. Without protection, polyurethane foam can quickly pick up moisture and deform with temperature fluctuations. Slopes prevent condensation on the windows, hide defects in the opening, improve sound and heat insulation.
Advantages of plastic slopes
Plastic slopes are the most practical solution for finishing a window opening, because they have the following advantages:
- When installing plastic slopes, a lot of dust and dirt does not form, and the procedure itself does not take much time - only 2-3 hours.
- PVC panels do not fade in the sun, because they are resistant to ultraviolet radiation, do not rot, do not damp and do not react to moisture.
- Since the material is antistatic, the surface will not collect dust, it can be easily cleaned with a regular soap solution.
- Plastic slopes are characterized by a high level of street noise absorption.
- The harmonious combination of plastic slopes with PVC windows gives the window opening a complete look.
- The low cost of slopes made of plastic when compared with other finishing materials.
- Plastic is a durable material that will last 15-20 years.
- When choosing plastic panels with insulation, it will be possible to give the slope additional thermal insulation, which will prevent heat loss.
Tools and materials
36 hours after the installation of the window and the foam hardening, we proceed to the installation of the slopes, without tearing off the protective films from the windows and sill. As a rule, plastic lining or sandwich panels are used to create plastic slopes. The recommended plastic thickness is at least 8 mm, the length of the panel should correspond to the dimensions of the window opening, the depth of the slope should not exceed the width of the panel. For the installation of slopes, in addition to the plastic itself, prepare the following materials: polyurethane foam, starter strip, adhesive tape, thermal insulation material, F-shaped profile, silicone, cement mixture, self-tapping screws, "bugs", paper clips. In the process, you will need a drill, a hammer, a trowel, a spatula, a screwdriver, a gun for applying foam and silicone, a tape measure, and a rag.
Preparatory work
First, the gaps formed during the installation of the plastic window on the street side should be repaired in order to seal the external assembly seam and hide the foam from the destructive effects of sunlight. To do this, you can use any mortar intended for outdoor use - putty or a mixture made on the basis of cement. After the outer slopes should be covered with paint - and proceed to work indoors.
Frame for panels
At the first stage, you should create a frame for attaching plastic panels in the following sequence:
- To stiffen the plastic along the perimeter of the slope, it is necessary to nail wooden slats using self-tapping screws as fasteners. The rail should be fixed flush to the wall. She shouldn't stick around.
- Fix strictly in an upright position, using wooden blocks and a building level for leveling.
Installation of the starting strip
At this stage, you need to fix the starting strip around the perimeter of the window, which is required to install the plastic panels. Self-tapping screws "bugs" are used for fastening. Be sure to make preliminary markings to fill the strip evenly. In addition to horizontal and vertical, it is worth controlling the tightness of the strip to the inner edge of the window. After that, remove the protective film placed on the window and sill, as there will be no dusty work.
Fastening the F-strip
We will be engaged in the manufacture of edging from an F-shaped strip, which closes the defective area around the window opening, which is customary to glue with wallpaper. The strip must be trimmed first, taking into account the overlap that will form after it is attached. The joints of the profile are cut at an angle of 45 degrees. It is removed after finishing work using metal scissors. Fasten the F-shaped profile by one of the two parallel ribs to the wooden lath, starting from the top element. Use a stapler for this.
Installation of plastic panels
When installing plastic slopes, consider the following requirements:
- The gap that occurs between the panel and the base must be at least 20 mm.
- The angle of the side elements of the window slope should be the same on the right and left; for measurements, use a square.
- Use a mounting knife and trim panels if they protrude above the opening.
Now you can start attaching the plastic to the frame: first we make the top panel, then 2 side ones. The plastic must be placed in the grooves of the starting strip in the far edge of the window opening, placing a layer of insulation behind it, which can be used as cotton wool. Fasten the panel into the F-profile. At all stages, it is recommended to control the work using a plumb line or level. If gaps have formed during installation, then they should be covered with white construction silicone or sealant.
Ready! It remains only to clean the surface of the plastic slopes from debris.
Hide
Do you want to replace / install slopes on plastic windows, but it is expensive to call a master? Or is it your goal to keep track of "wow, these" installers? In any case, you need to be well versed in this matter. See the main stages of work, explaining photos and videos.
Option 1: install with a starter profile
To make slopes on plastic windows in this way, to you materials will be required: plastic panels or sandwich panels, plastic initial U-profile, mounting angles (or F-profile instead of them), wooden slats, construction adhesive, silicone sealant.
Also need tools: tape measure, construction marker, screwdriver, cutter knife (popularly just a wallpaper knife), screws for plastic panels - "fleas", small dowel-nails.
Do-it-yourself installation of plastic slopes on windows takes place in several stages... They will seem to you the simplest if you have ever installed plastic panels. If not, don't miss it either!
1. Using self-tapping screws, fix the initial profile along the perimeter of the window profile - you will insert the panels into it.
Then, along the perimeter of the opening, using dowels, make a crate of wooden battens. A gap of 8-10 mm must be left between the top rail and the side ones - the panel will enter there.
2. Installation of slopes on plastic windows begins from the top panel. First, it is cut in length (and width, if necessary) with a cutter. Then one end is inserted into the profile, and the other is screwed to the rail with "fleas" by the protruding end (thorn). Do not worry about the appearance - you will hide the caps of the screws under the corner.
After that, the installation of the side slopes of plastic windows is done.
To prevent the platbands from falling off, they are fixed with construction tape for a couple of hours.
4. The final stage of the installation of internal slopes is the sealing of the joints. The sealant is applied with a pistol. And then spread with a small rubber spatula.
That's the whole instruction - get it done freely in half a day. Moreover, you will have time to smoke 10 times!
If you need more information, see video: Installation of slopes of plastic windows
Option 2: installation without starting profile
Fastening the slopes of plastic windows in the first way has a drawback: the U-profile after installation is very clearly visible. And if you consider that the colors of the slope and the profile are sometimes very difficult to choose ...
Foam slot - instead of starting profile
1. Using a wallpaper knife, make a slot in the foam around the window frame. It should be 1 mm wide and 1 cm deep.
2. After constructing the lathing, insert the panels with a spike into the resulting socket. And screw the opposite end in the same way.
3. If you are using panels without fasteners, such as sandwich panels, you can make the spike yourself.
To make a spike, the sandwich panel is cut with a wallpaper knife, first across and then along - to separate the insulation and the bottom layer. The homemade spike for attaching sandwich panels is ready!
On the side of the panel that will be adjacent to the window, draw a strip 1 cm wide. Then carefully cut along the line to cut through only the top layer and the insulation. Make a cut from the end and remove the "excess". So, the bottom layer will remain intact. It is something that is inserted into a homemade groove.
The rest of the technology for installing slopes No. 2 is similar to technology No. 1. So don't get confused.
No installation of plastic windows is complete without installing slopes. No matter how carefully the work is done, the destruction of the window opening is inevitable. Therefore, in any case, you will have to face the need to finish it.
There are several most common options for finishing a window opening:
- Plaster finishing;
- Installation of plastic slopes;
- Installation of sandwich panels;
- Plasterboard finishing.
Slope selection
It is necessary to choose the type of decoration and materials for it in accordance with the type of window structure, the characteristics of the walls in the room and other equally important nuances.
Note!
In the process of installing a double-glazed window, polyurethane foam is used, which fixes the structure and performs heat and sound insulation functions.
However, under the influence of dampness, sunlight and temperature extremes, this material collapses, therefore, slopes must be made immediately after the installation of the structure.
Plaster finishing
Decorating the opening with plaster differs from other methods, first of all, in its cheapness. To do this, you only need a dry mixture based on gypsum or cement. The price for it is much lower than for other finishing materials.
Preparatory work
Preparation for plastering the opening is carried out as follows:
- First of all, it is necessary to scrupulously clean the surface around the glass unit. In particular, dirt, dust and bitumen stains should be removed;
- Then it is necessary to level the surface as much as possible, cut down the influx of concrete, etc.
- The gaps between the double-glazed windows are sealed with polyurethane foam.
Opening finishing
Note!
Laying new layers of plaster can only be done after the previous layer has dried.
This explains the long plastering period, which can last for several days.
The thickness of one layer should be about 5-7 mm. Smooth the mortar from top to bottom by moving a spatula or wooden bevel. You can use a trowel to align the lines.
The upper part of the opening is usually particularly difficult.
Its decoration is done in this way:
- Before plastering, it is necessary to fix the wooden lath in a strictly horizontal position, which will become the face of the outer corner of the slope. You can fix it with gypsum plaster or nails, after which you need to check the horizontal level.
- Then layers of plaster are gradually applied.
- To maintain the integrity of the outer corner (trunnion), you should use rounding or flat chamfers.
- After the layers of plaster have dried, the rail must be dismantled and the edge of the corner must be leveled.
When finishing the vertical parts of the slope, you can also use wooden slats. The plastered corner should be ground to the wall surface without applying an additional layer of plaster. Therefore, the thickness of the covering layer should be 22 mm on all slopes.
Plastic slopes
Plastic slopes are the most popular type of window finishing. They allow you to create original interior solutions. In addition, the installation of window slopes with your own hands is not difficult.
The advantages of PVC slopes include the fact that this material corresponds to the material of the insulating glass unit itself, therefore, with temperature drops, the glass unit and the profile equally expand. As a result, there is no excessive stress in the slopes. In addition, plastic does not need additional finishing and can be cleaned with a damp cloth.
Preparatory work
Before proceeding with the finishing, it is necessary to perform several preparatory manipulations:
- First of all, you need to cut off all excess polyurethane foam with a knife.
- If, after cutting off the foam from the street side, cracks appear, then they must be filled.
This process should not be neglected, since under the influence of climatic conditions, the foam can simply crumble and the entire structure will settle, as a result of which you will not only have to redo the slopes, but also reinstall the glass unit. As a filler, you can use a common building mixture intended for outdoor use.
In the photo - PVC slope
Installation of slopes
After filling the cracks, you can start the internal work.
Installation instructions for plastic panels are as follows:
- First of all, it is necessary to take measurements and cut strips of the required width from PVC;
- Then you need to clean the surface of the slope and fix the panel on it with liquid nails. The panel should be fixed in position using a snap-in rail. You can also use wooden slats on the top and sides of the window, in which case you can fix the panel with a stapler.
- Along the perimeter of the slope, special plastic corners must be applied to the ends. They allow you to extend the life of the wallpaper, which is often peeled off by animals or children.
Note!
Not every PVC panel is suitable for installing a plastic slope.
Its surface must be resistant to UV rays and mechanical damage.
This completes the installation of plastic slopes. The whole work takes two to three hours at most.
Sandwich panel slopes
Installation of sandwich panels is not much different from the installation of conventional plastic panels:
- First, the profile is mounted;
- Then sandwich panels are inserted into the profile;
- The mount is blown out with ordinary foam.
Plasterboard slopes
Plasterboard slopes have become traditional for a long time. As a rule, moisture-resistant drywall is used for decoration, which is resistant to condensation that sometimes occurs on the windows. As a last resort, you can use ordinary drywall, on which a moisture-proof compound or a primer is applied in several layers.
The order of work is as follows:
- Before installing the window slopes, a special L-shaped profile (starting strip) must be screwed along the edge of the window frame, which will serve as the basis for the slope panels.
- Then the window opening is measured and the drywall strips are cut. If the wall is even, then you can cut the panel a little with a margin, so that if irregularities appear, they can be eliminated. If the wall itself is not even, then the material should be cut exactly to size, and the irregularities should be removed with plaster after installing the strip.
- Next, the profile fixed on the window frame must be filled with acrylic sealant and the workpiece inserted into it.
- The resulting space between the wall and the sheet of gypsum board must be laid with mineral wool.
- Then glue must be applied to the edge of the workpiece and pressed against the wall. In this case, it is necessary to use a level to evenly press the panel and ensure the vertical (or horizontal) surface.
Today, many construction companies are switching to using new technologies and new standards. In all new buildings, only plastic windows are installed; in all houses, windows are also changed. It is worth knowing that after the windows are installed, you have to make slopes. They can be made from any material, but the most commonly used materials are drywall and plastic.
Foam is not thermal insulation, it is also necessary to use additional materials for it, they can protect the windows from cooling.
Types of slopes for windows
The most commonly used plaster slopes, plasterboard and plastic.
Plastering slopes were popular in the olden days. In fact, they have more disadvantages than advantages. First of all, they can lose their color, if the house sags, then the plaster will surely move away from the wall. These slopes are quite labor intensive because they take several days to install.
The plaster is applied in several layers, and each layer dries for a long time. Then the layers are primed and painted. In addition, such slopes do not provide protection against temperature changes, the windows will sweat.
Slopes drywall are more durable, they have excellent thermal insulation, but at the same time they are afraid of moisture, that is, they are best installed in rooms where thermal insulation is provided. However, installing such an option requires a good specialist, besides, then it still requires a primer and painting.
The most universal is considered to be plastic slopes. They are very practical, do not fade and care is quite easy. The plastic is durable and can last for over fifteen years. Such plastic will be in perfect harmony with the window, if you choose the right shade. Plastic is quite easy to mount, if you study the technology itself, then there is always the opportunity to do this work yourself.
Plastic sandwich panels are often used as an option. They fit under the frame and can be matte or glossy.
Installation of slopes from sandwich panels
The profile for fixing the slopes is made of sandwich panels, the thickness of which is not more than 1 cm. The profile is attached to the opening, and any options can be used, most often fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws and dowels. In some versions, fastening is used with brackets made of galvanized iron with a thickness of not more than 1 mm. The bracket is attached to the wall and to the slope with foam. The brackets are connected to each other by means of self-tapping screws.
If the window is supposed to be decorated with integral PVC or plasterboard, then you can give it any shape. Integral PVC is able to bend at any angle, and special cuts are made. The incisions are fixed with a special adhesive. In fact, the installation is done according to the same scheme as the installation of sandwich panels, using self-tapping screws, dowels and a profile.
The sandwich panels are fastened in a specific sequence:
- along the perimeter of the entire opening, guides are attached using self-tapping screws of the appropriate size,
- holes in the wall for the guides are made with a drill or punch. Make sure that they are attached perfectly evenly, it is better to control the process with a level,
- the plastic panel should be adjusted in size so that it fits clearly into the guides,
- the surplus of the panel is cut along the depth of the slope and the free spaces are filled with sealant and sealed with a special masking tape until completely dry,
- after the sealant has dried, decorative plastic corners are installed.
- a six-meter strip of plastic with a thickness of 8 mm,
- starting strip,
- strip F, that is, a strip of plastic of a special shape,
- rail 15 mm thick,
- level,
- staples and stapler,
- white silicone,
- puncher,
- mineral wool,
- scissors for metal,
- self-tapping screws.
Useful. Which blinds are best for home? Let's try to disassemble together:
Tools and materials
To install conventional plastic slopes, the following materials and tools are required:
Useful. During the operation of plastic windows, their adjustment may be required - more about this.
Steps for installing slopes
Installation is carried out in several stages. Initially, wooden slats are recruited, the main thing is that the lights do not protrude. The slats are attached to the wall using a puncher. You can use wooden blocks for leveling. At the same time, ideality at the joints is not so necessary.
A starting strip is nailed along the edge of the plastic window. It is important that a strip of plastic will be attached to the groove of the starting strip. If you did not have wallpaper pasted over, then you can tear off the film and glue them, because the dirty work will be finished. Before stuffing the F-ki, it is important to cut it correctly.
After the strip is filled, there will be an overlap, which is removed with metal scissors. It is attached with a stapler to a wooden rail. At the last stage, the plastic is attached and the wall is immediately insulated.
The plastic is attached, and cotton wool is put there in front of it, everything will turn out tightly and beautifully. If you do not get even and beautiful corners, then they can always be wiped with white silicone.