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Secrets of using PVC edges at the edge banding stage. Furniture edges: types, photos

Everyone who has ever encountered laminated chipboard knows that a plate made of this material has smooth surfaces with a textured pattern, while its end parts are a hodgepodge of wood chips with glue. In order to give the parts sawn from such a plate a presentation, a process such as chipboard edging was invented. It is a gluing on the ends of the details of a decorative strip - "edge", which can be either in color with the chipboard decor or different from it.

To date, two main types of edges are used:

  • PVC edge
  • melamine edge

PVC edge used in the factory manufacture of furniture, it is more reliable, durable, durable, but the edging procedure when using it is quite laborious. In furniture workshops, special edge-cutting machines are used. Thickness PVC edges there are 2 mm and 0.4 mm. The width also varies depending on the thickness of the chipboard sheets.

Melamine edge less durable, but requires a minimum of tools to stick and is widely used among home furniture makers. But due to the low mechanical resistance, its use is limited. Personally, I glue melamine edging mainly on drawers. On the reverse side of the melamine edge, hot melt adhesive is always applied, and it itself is sufficiently resistant to elevated temperatures, so it is enough to stick it simple iron. It is only thin (0.4 mm) and has never been seen wider than 20 mm.

Since our site is dedicated to more work at home, first we will analyze how.

So, for work, we need the edge itself, an ordinary iron, a metal ruler, a clamp or a vise (optional), fine sandpaper on a bar.

The edge sticker technique itself is as simple as a nail:

Now let's figure out how to glue PVC edge with your own hands, i.e. without use edging machine. Such an edge will last much longer than melamine, besides 2 mm and looks "richer". It is worth mentioning that the PVC edge can be either already with an adhesive layer (hot melt adhesive) or without it. In the first case, edging occurs with the help of a building hair dryer, and in the second case, it is necessary to purchase glue. Let's consider the second method in more detail, because. it is more economical.

Let's start with gluing 0.4mm PVC edges. To fix it, it is best to use contact types of glue, for example, 3M ™ Scotch-Grip, Moment Crystal, Titanium or "88". It should be noted that it is more convenient to work with liquid glue (3M), it is easier to level and its consumption is much less. We work with glue according to the instructions indicated on the package.

Contact adhesive can be replaced with hot melt adhesive. For this you will need glue gun with a set of rods and an industrial hair dryer.

For work, we need a roller to press the edge (it can be successfully replaced with a rag or a piece of felt boots)), the glue itself, a spatula for leveling the glue or a simple brush, as you like, a wide chisel or a knife from a planer to remove excess edges, a sanding block with a fine sandpaper .

The edge in furniture production is necessary to protect the end edges of the product from chips, cracks and other damage, and it also protects against moisture and formaldehyde vapor.

You will learn about what edges are, as well as how to glue them and how to glue an edge with an iron and a hairdryer, from this article.

Types of edges - why are they needed

  1. The most common type is melamine edge with glue on paper basis . It is applied to finishing of internal sites of furniture. Affordable, inexpensive, but not the best quality option. Does not tolerate moisture, wears out quickly. Easy to stick at home with a simple iron.
  2. T-shaped flexible profile - is a T-shaped bar, it is inserted into a slot in the side of the chipboard or MDF. It is convenient to replace the damaged element in the future without disassembling the furniture. Installation requires a milling machine.
  3. PVC edging - reliably protects the ends of furniture from damage, is wear-resistant, resistant to moisture. Gluing PVC edging will require an edger, so using this type of edge at home is difficult.
  4. ABS plastic is an eco-friendly, chlorine-free option. Valued for resistance to high temperatures and physical damage.

All options can be divided into two subspecies - edges without glue and with glue.

The average cost of a profile per linear meter:

  • PVC 0.4 mm thick - about 25 rubles,
  • PVC 2 mm thick - about 40 rubles,
  • Melamine material for chipboard - about 25 rubles.

In our country, products from Rehau which offers big choice color solutions, as well as different width tapes from 15 to 45 mm.

To simplify the work, you can use various specialized furniture programs that will calculate how much material is needed to glue the edges.

PVC edge - how to glue in stages at home

For work you will need:

  • iron or building hair dryer,
  • and of course buy a PVC edge with glue
  • hard roller,
  • newspaper or paper sheet

The material is heated to make the adhesive sticky. Heating is performed with an iron in the "Synthetics" mode.

  • The profile is applied to the end in such a way that it overlaps the end of the section.
  • Next, the iron again performs heating through the newspaper. Since the glue dissolves quickly, the process is quite active, and it is convenient to move the iron along the PVC edge.
  • The edge itself must be carefully pressed and ironed until it sticks along the entire length.
  1. Bonding with a building hair dryer. Instead of an iron, you can use a building hair dryer. The PVC edge is heated from the adhesive side and when the composition becomes sticky, the material is applied to the end desired area, pinch and gently smooth.
  2. Gluing with glue "Moment". This method is suitable if there is no adhesive layer on the edge. The quality of the butt is checked manually, sawdust, rubbish, dust are removed until the surface is clean. Then glue is applied to both the material and the end and wait until it sets. After that, apply and press. Using a roller, the area is rolled so that the glue grabs faster.

VIDEO

How to remove excess material

If it was not possible to carefully glue the edge the first time, the procedure will have to be repeated. To do this, glue is again applied to the area and the profile is clamped with a roller or manually.

Since usually the width of the PVC edges is taken with a margin, you need to carefully remove the excess along the edges. To do this, use a regular clerical knife or file. It is taken with both hands and pressed on the protruding fragment. As a result, the excess parts are broken off and an edge remains that matches the width of the section.

Shutdown

After everything is glued, it remains to process the bumps sandpaper.

How to glue an edge on chipboard - a description

Melamine edge is best option for use at home when you need to refurbish old furniture With minimal cost. If the furniture is expensive, it is better to turn to professionals who use other more expensive and high-quality material.

Consider, how to glue the edge on a chipboard tabletop at home.

GREAT VIDEO RELATED TO THE TOPIC

To work, you will need the following materials:

  • skin,
  • sharply sharpened knife-jamb,
  • wallpaper roller,
  • melamine edge,
  • building hair dryer or iron.

Action algorithm:

  1. select the operating mode of the iron so that it does not get too hot and does not burn the chipboard and at the same time ensures proper melting of the glue,
  2. process the edges of the chipboard for gluing with sandpaper, eliminate irregularities,
  3. measure the profile
  4. heat it with an iron and press it firmly against the area with a roller (if there is no adhesive layer, you will need to apply glue to the edge yourself, for example, Moment glue),
  5. cut off the hanging edges of the edge with a knife.

It is necessary to cut at an angle along the edge, slightly wringing the material. Then it remains to sand the edges so that there are no burrs and irregularities.

If the cut of the edge and the chipboard itself are slightly different, the stain will help correct the difference.

In the case when the part has a complex shape, and the edge of the surface is characterized by complex relief, it is not always possible to glue the material evenly the first time. In such a situation, it is worth contacting professionals so as not to spoil the product.

Types of edge glue

What glue to choose for the edge

Professionals furniture production actively use hot melt adhesives for edging. They are convenient in the event that production will be put on stream, and it is required as high quality results, and fast speed.

Hot melt adhesives are thermoplastics, which means that when heated they become very elastic and when cooled they harden quickly. The polymer of ethylene with vinyl acetate, which is part of the adhesive, is responsible for these properties. The disadvantage of using is the need to use special equipment, namely the appropriate machines or hand guns for applying glue to parts and heating it.

  1. V living conditions PVC glue is often used, which adheres paper materials well to various surfaces. Homogeneous without lumps light color the mass adheres well to surfaces, but is afraid of moisture. It does not require the use of additional equipment, therefore it is convenient for non-professional masters to use.
  2. fit universal adhesives"Moment" and "88-Lux", which will reliably stick the material to the surface of chipboard and PVC. After 3-4 hours the product can be used. Adhesives are inexpensive, safe and available.
  3. Of the professional furniture edge adhesive, it is worth noting products from Kleiberit. The company offers hot melt adhesives for cladding, for gluing the material using the soft-forming method (in case the surface is embossed), as well as for cladding.

Often, due to furniture design errors or other reasons, it is necessary to glue the edge on the laminated chipboard. Sticking a traditional plastic edge at home is almost impossible, especially without special equipment. The melamine edge saves, since there are enough colors for it. Let's see how a melamine edge sticker is made and what it is all about.

Without going into details of what the melamine edge itself is made of, we can say that it is a tape on which glue is applied. At the same time, the glue is thermal, so just sticking it will not work. At the same time, thanks to the thermal adhesive on the laminated chipboard, it holds well.



Fig.1.

Before proceeding to the description of the process of gluing the melamine edge, a few words about essential tool and preparation of the chipboard end. To apply a melamine edge, you will need construction hair dryer, a knife and a pair of construction gloves.


Fig.2.

The end of the chipboard plate must be clean and even., without sawdust and flaking parts. Otherwise, the edge will stick not to the chipboard, but to them and it will not stick well. The best end face is obtained after milling or sawing on the machine. Further, the photo will show the butt of poor quality, it’s just that there wasn’t anything better at hand.



Fig.3.

The melamine edge sticker is started by cutting a strip of the desired length from the main roll or slightly longer than required. In this case, the end that will be glued first must be trimmed. You can do this with regular scissors.

Next, apply the edge to the end of the chipboard. It should be noted that the melamine edge is produced in a width of 20 mm, i.e. it is wider than chipboard. Therefore, at this stage it is important to align it along one edge, as in the photo.



Fig.4.

Please note, on the other side of the chipboard, the edge protrudes. In the future, it must be cut.



Fig.5.

Next comes the hair dryer. A temperature of 250 degrees is sufficient for gluing a melamine edge. The edge is heated with a hair dryer, thereby melting the glue. A characteristic sign that the adhesive has melted is the moment when the edge loses its curved shape, after being in the roll, and becomes straight. Then she simply presses against the end of the chipboard with her hands. This must be done with gloves, because. hot edge.

There are several features that should be mentioned.

Edge bonding should be done in a warm room., this will ensure a slower curing of the glue. Accordingly, there will be more time to correct the situation.

It is necessary to warm up the melamine edge not along the entire length, but 20-30 cm each. It is easier to work this way, and the glue does not have time to harden until the edge is pressed against the chipboard end. So, on average, an end face 60 cm long is glued in 3 approaches. The first - the beginning of the edge is glued, the second - the middle part of the edge, the third - the end of the edge.

Do not forget that the air temperature from the hair dryer is about 250 degrees, so you need to work carefully and Do not point the hair dryer at your hands or other objects.



Fig.6.

There are many options on the Internet on how to glue an edge. For example, heat it with an iron. In my opinion, this is not advisable. Sometimes, when overheated, the glue flows out from under the edge, and most likely it can ruin the iron, and it costs more than a hair dryer. It is also suggested to cool the edge different ways. This is also not advisable, because. at a room temperature of 25 degrees, the edge cools down until the glue hardens in a few seconds, and in my opinion it is not advisable to come up with additional operations.

The last step is trimming the melamine edging.



Fig.7.

In this case, cut off the usual kitchen knife, there was simply nothing else at hand. The result is not the best. A sharp knife with a thick blade, such as a cobbler's knife, gives a good result. The knife should be placed at an angle to the edge of the order of 30-45 degrees from the bottom side. The best result is given by a special device for trimming melamine edges, but I personally did not manage to get it.

In conclusion, I will say one more thing. interesting feature. As you can see in the photo, the edge cut has a white color, which does not look very good against the background of cherry color. You can fix this with a wood stain on water based. You just need to moisten a rag in the stain and wipe the cut with it, remove the excess. For example, mahogany stain is well suited for cherry-colored chipboard.

Chipboard - the most suitable material to produce reliable and high quality inexpensive furniture. In order to hide the not too aesthetically looking internal structure of the product, edging is performed from the side of the end - the installation of special decorative panels melamine, PVC or other available species synthetic plastics.

Why else edge furniture

In addition to the most obvious goal - to provide an elegant appearance, furniture edging performs several other equally important tasks:

Where to hem

Furniture manufacturers often edging only the visible parts of the end surfaces. From the point of view of economy, this looks quite understandable, but taking into account the above facts, this approach can result in certain problems - the protective edge must be present in all places where there is an open internal chipboard structure.

If you purchased furniture with unprotected edges, it is quite possible to do their edging yourself at home. To do this, you do not need to have any special equipment - the edge can be glued with an ordinary iron.

Do not be too lazy to spend a few minutes on this operation - you will reliably protect yourself and your furniture and significantly extend its service life. Next, we will analyze in detail how to glue edging tape with your own hands.

Edge materials

The edging of open surfaces of furniture can be performed using various decorative elements that differ in the quality of the material, appearance and, accordingly, cost.


How to glue the edge with an iron

Edging in production is done with a tape with a clean base. The adhesive composition is applied to it during installation when high temperature, providing the formation of a thin even layer. In order to stick the edge, several rollers are used, tightly pressing it to the base of the chipboard. Then special cutters cut the tape to the size of the part, remove the remnants of glue and base material and grind the junction until a smooth and beautiful surface is obtained.

You can also glue the edge at home. To do this, you need to use a tape with already applied adhesive composition. Further, the process largely repeats industrial edging, since it is performed similarly:


You can learn more about the process of gluing edges on chipboard in the video below:

Sticking a U-shaped profile on the end of the chipboard is somewhat easier. We have discussed this method before. Such an edge is much stronger than melamine, bends quite easily and reliably protects against damage.

The presence of microgaps between the edge of the U-profile and the front chipboard surface does not allow gluing it in the kitchen or in the bathroom, therefore, edging with this material is mainly used for office furniture.

Edging chipboard, of course, is best done in the factory. In production, you can order a tape from any materials, including plastic, PVC and other modern composite materials. Edging on the machine will ensure perfect evenness and accuracy of application decorative cladding, but requires certain costs. If the main task is to meet a predetermined small budget, applying a melamine tape with your own hands will allow you to combine acceptable quality and the lowest price.

You might be interested to know

This article, most likely, will not be of interest to professional furniture makers. But for amateurs who, for some reason, do not have access to PVC edge with glue applied, but really want to veneer their furniture with PVC, it will have to be “at the checkout”. Moreover, you can sculpt not only 2 mm, but also 0.4 mm PVC edge.

Today we will talk about the process of sticking this type of edge not on traditional hot melt adhesive, but on contact adhesive.

I use glue, but you can use the traditional moment.

We cut the edge into pieces slightly larger (about 10 mm) than the length of the part to be glued (I will glue the ends in the photo). A garden pruner is great for cutting, but you can just scratch the edge with a sharp object - it will break exactly where the scratch is.

We apply glue to the part (some glues mean applying to both glued surfaces - read the instructions).

Then we turn the part over and lay it on the edge, pressing it against a flat surface.

Now the part must be fixed until the glue dries.

To do this, you can use specialized edge clamps. I use - they are screwed onto the usual F-shaped ones.

Press better through wooden block for more even pressure distribution.

The second option is to use special clamps. I made these with a couple pieces of plywood and studs.

After the glue dries, we release the parts from the clamps and cut the ends. This can be done either with the same secateurs or again by scratching and breaking off.

In both cases, such a cut is obtained, which sometimes has to be slightly adjusted with a fine sandpaper on a block.

Now we move on to removing overhangs from the faces.

We glue the edge on the chipboard

For 0.4 mm edges, a knife or ruler is enough (similar to melamine). For 2 mm edges, an edge router is required.

The curly () cutter, walking along the edge with a bearing, cuts off its protruding part.

The output is such a slightly rough cut that needs to be polished.

To do this, with a piece of felt we make several vigorous movements along the edge. As it warms up, it evens out the roughness.

The result is such a smooth edge no worse than on professional equipment

Although more expensive and longer. The technique, of course, is artisanal, but it has the right to life.

Posted in: Practical part.
Tagged: chipboard end

Registration, processing, sealing of chipboard edges. Edging, edge, butt, finishing. fix, process, process, finish

How beautiful to seal the edge of chipboard? Finishing the end face of a polished plate, processing the edge of a laminated one. Chipboard edging techniques. (10+)

Finishing the end of the chipboard

Edging chipboard is necessary in the manufacture of furniture. Your attention materials for the manufacture of furniture with your own hands.

Chipboard edge structure

Particle board consists of sawdust mixed with glue and pressed. Moreover, the process of pressing and drying the glue is organized in such a way as to obtain dense surfaces and a rather rotten middle. This is done so that the chipboard springs and does not break. If the entire array of the sheet is made dense, then the sheet will prick from a very small deformation.

Usually we don't contact with internal structure chipboard sheet. It is fenced off from us with dense surfaces and a laminating coating (if the chipboard is laminated). But the butt reveals this charm to us. Our goal is to close it from the eyes of those who will admire our product.

In addition to aesthetic reasons, there are several more reasons why you need to close up the end of the chipboard, even in places that are not visible to the eye. Moisture. Chipboard is very sensitive to moisture, even a small amount absorbed from the air. Surfaces of laminated chipboard are impervious to moisture, the surface of polished chipboard is usually painted and also impervious to moisture. The edge should also not let moisture through. Mushrooms. Microorganisms and insects that decompose wood can penetrate into the slab through the end face. Harmful substances. Harmful substances contained in the glue and the sawdust themselves, from which the chipboard is made, do not penetrate through the laminated or painted surface, but enter the room through the end.

Options for edging, chipboard edge design

The options for processing the end face (edging) depend, first of all, on how the sheet itself will be finished. If the sheet is laminated, and it is planned to use its laminated surface white, that is, not to paint or cover with anything, then it is necessary to stick an edge tape on the visible edges that matches the appearance laminated surface, and putty the hidden edges and seal with a construction bandage. If the sheet is laminated or sanded, and it is planned to paint it, then the sheet itself must be primed, its edges puttied, sealed with a construction bandage with a call on the plane of the sheet, putty bandage and painted.

End face of white-laminated chipboard

Visible end

When cutting such chipboard, you need to be very careful, use a sawing tool that leaves a smooth edge. The laminating coating of chipboard during cutting is very fond of crumbling and chipping. If this happened, then it will not be possible to correct the situation. I do not know how to beautifully repair such a chip. You will either have to put up with it, or saw off a new workpiece. Next, I recommend filling the edge. Many people glue the edge tape directly onto the sawn edge, but I tried to do this and gave up on it. The tape doesn't adhere well to the surface. I putty the edge with acrylic universal putty. After drying, the skin is medium-grained. I do this very carefully so as not to chip the laminate with chipboard. Then I stick the tape on the leveled surface.

I will dwell on the types of tapes - edges. Usually it is paper (in the generalized sense of the word ‘paper’) tape and plastic. Paper tape is sold pre-applied with hot melt adhesive. It is glued with an iron. I will not dwell on this process in detail, there are enough materials on the network on this topic. You need to pay attention to the quality of the tape and glue. If subsequently the tape lags behind, then it can be glued with ordinary glue, this will not be noticeable. The plastic tape is glued on. The adhesive may already be applied to plastic tape and covered with paper protective strip. This bad case. This glue sticks very badly. Do not buy plastic edging with adhesive already applied.

What glue to use? It is better to use the glue recommended by the edge manufacturer. But, note, it is worth making sure that there is a solvent for this glue, which allows you to remove excess glue and not damage the plastic border and the coating of the chipboard sheet itself. Then you will be comfortable.

How to glue the edge on chipboard and PVC

According to the instructions for the glue, you will glue the edge, and remove the glue that has come out with a swab moistened with the specified solvent. Difficulties can arise if the adhesive dissolves only with solvents that dissolve plastic. Excess glue cannot be removed with such a solvent, such glue is not suitable for us.

Making an invisible end

We spat him. Skin with medium grit. Carefully so as not to chip, as in the previous case. In principle, this can be stopped. but better with glue PVA glue a strip of construction bandage to the putty end. He (bandage) will prevent splitting and rash of putty. Usually the bandage is slightly wider than the edge. Glue the bandage so that the edge is in the middle of it. When the glue is dry, sharp knife, carefully, so as not to damage the laminated chipboard, remove the excess bandage.

Chipboard edge for painting

In this case, the cut can be carried out without much concern, since chips and defects can easily be corrected with putty. If we are working with laminated chipboard, but still we want to paint it, then we apply primer to the entire product. Suitable primer GF-021 or Otex (Otex) from Tikkurila (Tikkurila). If polished chipboard is used, then priming is not necessary, although it is desirable. We putty the butt. I use acrylic putty with fine filler. Skinning. We should get a smooth rectangular edge. Sometimes this requires several iterations of sanding - putty. When the edge suits us, it must be fixed, otherwise it will chip or crack. Putty - the material is not very durable and reliable. We glue the edge with a construction bandage 4-5 cm wider than the end. We use PVA glue. We bend the bandage so that it sticks to the end of the chipboard and goes to the upper and lower planes. See drawing. After the glue dries, we putty a construction bandage of finely dispersed acrylic putty. Usually one putty is used for all these works. We especially pay attention to the strip where the bandage ends and the chipboard itself begins. Here it is necessary to putty especially carefully so that after sanding and painting the transition is absolutely not noticeable. We dry the putty, we skin it with a fine sandpaper, we paint it.

Despite the monstrous appearance on the diagram on an enlarged scale, in reality, the presence of a bandage and putty on the end of the chipboard, if everything is done correctly, is completely invisible.

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PVC furniture edge

PVC furniture edge - a narrow strip of polyvinyl chloride, which is used for pasting the ends of laminated chipboard. It not only protects the chipboard from damage, but is also a decorative element.

Melamine edging is also widely used in furniture production. But since it is made from paper impregnated with saline, it has several disadvantages. Among them are small thickness, fragility and susceptibility to mechanical damage. That is why many manufacturers of furniture and interior items prefer PVC tape.

PVC edge has the following advantages:

  • high level of strength;
  • reliable protection against chips, moisture, which allows you to increase the service life of products;
  • high resistance to chemical compounds, ultraviolet radiation, ignition;
  • relatively low cost.

The PVC edge is a narrow tape consisting of polyvinyl chloride. Edge tape is an elegant addition to furniture structures made of laminated chipboard. It protects products from physical, chemical and biological damage, while at the same time giving elegance to furniture, whether it is a countertop, cabinet or any other product. It is enough to paste over the ends of the furniture so that it acquires a finished look. PVC edge tape can work wonders even with ordinary furniture, giving it a touch of sophistication and sophistication. There is a huge variety of colors, shades, decor and textures, so you can apply this decorative element to any furniture. In addition, the edging material will add furniture performance characteristics, protecting furniture from moisture and reducing the evaporation of resins.

Furniture edging is an easy-to-use and very practical decorative element that makes chipboard furniture easier to use.

High quality edging tape gives furniture products durability, reliability and strength. The tape is easy to wash because it is moisture resistant. The facing PVC edge is additionally coated with acrylic resin so that it is not exposed to any impact.

Several types of tapes are used commercially in the furniture and component industry, including ABS, adhesive-backed edging, and PVC. If we are talking about exclusive designer furniture or premium class furniture, then original edging materials are used, including aluminum edge, high gloss, 3D edge, etc.

One of the best edging tapes is considered to be PVC products made in China. This edging material is distinguished by its special aesthetics and functionality, as well as a long service life.

China PVC edgeband is produced according to latest achievements and according to all sanitary and hygienic standards. Furniture edge China is considered the best option for furniture made of chipboard and decorating an office or home.

Our company offers a wide range of PVC miscellaneous textures and colors. Based on your choice, we will offer you an adhesive that will most securely attach the edging material to the furniture. Of course, the question of the accuracy of furniture design will directly depend on the quality of the equipment and the qualifications of the staff. Whether you're looking for a unique stone surface or a classic type of wood texture, we can help you select the right edge band for you.

Pasting with a plastic edge of the ends of chipboard.

You will have to specify the texture, decor and color of the material, in accordance with your taste preferences. With the help of edging tape you will literally transform the furniture in your home. Products, as well as the technology of its production, meet the highest standards of quality, safety and environmental friendliness.

We offer PVC edging in a wide range at an attractive price.

Having glued the end of the chipboard with a melamine edge, do not doubt that the treated surface will look worse than pasting the edge on a low-quality machine - if you glue the edge correctly, in accordance with the algorithm, the result is brilliant.

What is the edge attached to?

  • For parts in contact with the floor.
  • To elements that will be subjected to mechanical stress in the future.
  • To internal parts, for example, parts drawers chest of drawers or bedside tables, laminated boards.

What do you need for edging

  • Iron.
  • Knife-cutter or clerical knife, necessary thing, can be used both when assembling furniture and when assembling various elements, such as a mosquito net.
  • A piece of felt or a damp piece of cloth - a rag.
  • Sandpaper, and even better - a bar covered with sandpaper, it will be more convenient to work with it.
  • Parts holder or vise.
  • Actually the edge itself.

How is the preparation for pasting the edge

To ensure that the end result of your work looks flawless and looks quite aesthetically pleasing when edge gluing, you should use a good iron, it is desirable that Teflon be taken as the basis for the surface. Make sure that the ironing surface of the iron is clean - if there is dirt, they must be removed. If you have picked this tool you can start pasting for example wardrobe shelves.

To make the work most convenient, you should not use ordinary knives, a cutter is ideal. If you do not have such a knife, then you need to find an old knife blade and construct a cutter from it yourself.

You can make a bar yourself - you need to take even an ordinary piece of chipboard and paste over it with sandpaper on one side.

A melamine edge is for sale with an already prepared layer of glue on it, but if you are “lucky enough” to purchase an edge without adhesive coating, you need to apply glue on it yourself.

The holder can also be easily constructed independently from the remnants of chipboard, for this you need to take two small pieces of material and fill them at a small distance from each other perpendicular to the base.

The process of pasting the edges is carried out in stages

  • After unwinding the bay, attach it to the end of the part, leaving a little edge for trimming.

    How to glue PVC edge on chipboard at home

    In the standard, the edge width is 2.1 cm, and chipboard, as a rule, has a width of 1.6-1.8 cm, so there will also be room for trimming and rubbing the edges. In order not to do extra work and not cut the edge along the two edges, it is better to align it on one side, and subsequently cut off the excess only on the other side.

  • Having attached the edge to the facade, start heating it and ironing it. Special attention it is worth paying attention to the edges of the ends - it is necessary to iron it most carefully there.
  • Details of small length are ironed entirely and immediately, and longer segments should be heated and ironed in parts - in sections of 40 centimeters. The butt is cooled with felt or a damp cloth.
  • Based on the quality of the tape used, the heating temperature of the iron is selected and regulated. If everything is set correctly, then the iron glides directly over the surface, does not cling to anything and does not scratch the edge. If the heating is correct, then the glue under the edge will spread evenly. And if you overdo it too much and overheat the edge, then bubbles will go and the edge will have to be removed and thrown away.
  • If you nevertheless spoiled some area, then in order to remove the damaged material, you need to heat it up again and remove it with a knife. After cleaning the surface, you can start pasting again.
  • If the edge is of high quality, then it will stick only after it has completely cooled. Having found that the edge has completely cooled down, you can start trimming the excess. You can cut correctly by bending the edge, rubbing it with a bar until the chamfer is visible white color. Seeing the substrate, you can already cut off unnecessary material.
  • After trimming, all edges are carefully and carefully rubbed with sandpaper. At this stage, the pasting of the melamine edge is completed. And you can safely proceed to the installation of handles.

Today I again tried to glue 0.4 mm PVC edge with an iron. My previous attempts failed (the edge melted before the glue, shrank even at the lowest heat levels. In general, nothing worked). Based on these experiments, I concluded that this is not possible at all. I confess, I was wrong - thanks to the guys - they convinced me. I picked up another iron - newer and again took up experiments.

Since I don’t have a glue applicator, I decided to use the method of applying glue from the melamine edge directly to the workpiece, which I also read about somewhere on the web. For work, I needed an iron (more precisely, two - see below), a sanding block (best not with an abrasive, but with felt - it will also flash in subsequent photos), a melamine edge - any color, a PVC edge (which we will glue) and a metal ruler or here is such a square. I will give a larger view of both types of edges (the photo shows that PVC is without glue, while melamine has a thermal adhesive layer applied).

To begin with, we fix the workpiece on a workbench, preferably vertically.

Then we apply a piece of melamine edge to it and smooth it with a hot iron (we set the heating regulator to the second position).

Having ironed in one direction, we begin the movement of the iron in the other, tearing off the edge until the glue has cooled.

We see that the glue remains on the workpiece.

Another photo, more visual. It can be seen that there is almost no glue left on the melamine tape, while it is present on the workpiece.

Now cut off a piece PVC tape desired length (with a small traditional margin)

At first I tried to glue it again with my old iron (letting it cool beforehand) the result is deplorable. The edge immediately shriveled up.

Then I took up the next generation iron (which I wringed out from my mother-in-law) and set it to the very minimum.

Moved the edging tape to the right so that the deformed piece did not lie on the surface to be treated and began to smooth it with an iron. Things are progressing more slowly than with.

Warming up in one direction, we begin to move the iron in the opposite direction, smoothing the edge tape after it with the palm of your hand.

Surplus from the ends lends itself perfectly to simple scissors.

The cut is perfectly even and does not require additional finishing. (but if necessary, you can rub a bar with a fine abrasive a couple of times).

To trim the overhangs on the edges, it is advisable to lay the detail horizontally .. Personally, it’s so much more convenient for me. They, as in the case of melamine, lend themselves perfectly to a metal ruler, driven at an angle shown in the photo.

The cut is a little rough. It should be polished.
This is done with a felt bar, with which we make several movements along the edge at an angle.

Turning the workpiece over, I found a non-glue zone. Not pleasant, but not fatal.

Again we take the iron and press the non-glued area for 20-30 seconds.
Then we change the iron to a felt bar, with which we also press it until the glue cools.

The result is such a PVC-sealed butt end.
This technique is well suited for big parts especially when melamine edging is not suitable and edging is not available for some reason. But in terms of time, it is quite costly.