It would seem that this topic has long been disclosed in the literature and journal publications in detail, but practice shows that not all daches competently arrange compost heaps on the site. But a rational approach to obtaining high-quality fertilizers is the key to a good harvest of environmentally friendly vegetables and fruits in the garden and in the garden. West recommendations of the specialist.

For successful growth and the development of the calculation, the whole complex I substances are absorbed from the soil. The greatest requirements of the plant have in nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K) - in its importance, these components are called macroelements. Nitrogen promotes vegetation (tissue growth), phosphorus - flowering and fruiting, potassium-resistance to diseases. But macroelements fall into the plant is not in pure form, but in the form of salts, acid residues or oxides.

Another group of elements is more extensive and has about 20 components required for plants in smaller quantities. They are called trace elements. It is sulfur, magnesium, calcium, iron, cobalt, manganese, boron. Copper and others. They also come into plants in the form of salts or oxides and play a huge role in regulating physiological processes.

The life cycle of any organism begins with birth and ends with death. And then the problem of disposal of organic residues arises. In nature, this is cope with representatives of microflora and microfaunas, garbage, mushrooms, microscopic soil arthropods and worms, which, according to the Meeting of I. V. Michurin, are "shorters of soil fertility." Soil microorganisms translate complex organic substances into simple, available for plants - this process is called composting.

Fertilizers

Soil always has some kind of fertility, a certain nutritional value. With its extensive use under agricultural needs, natural fertility was restored by itself. But as soon as cultures have appeared more high-yielding than wild plants, natural fertility of so phrase began to decline sharply, and to maintain it high level It took the applying IB fertilizer.

The most widely used were organic fertilizers - manure, peat, il (sapropel) and compost. Mineral fertilizers began to be widely used 100 years ago, but their effectiveness is lower compared to organic, and harmful effects on the soil higher.

When making organic fertilizers Composting processes begin in the soil. It is clear that they are at different speeds. So, the fresh manure will be composed for a long time, and even burns the roots. Therefore, before making it, it is given to be searched, prohibited. Peat, mainly consisting of sphagnum residues, greatly acidifies the soil - he needs to be milder, it would be good to deoxide him with lime or dolomite. Sapropel is not bad, but where to take it in large volumes and cheaper? But compost ...

Compost is completely overworked and decomposed organic residues. Compost is rich in nitrogen, and with a reasonable addition to phosphoric and potash fertilizers becomes a universal complex organic fertilizer. Unlike the manure in the compost, there are no seeds of weed herbs - they are also decomposed. And unlike peat, the compost does not scatter the soil - the investigator, but does not lead to its planting when the deoxidation. And the nutritional value of the compost is lower compared to peat.

But traditionally for the fertilizer of the soil under agricultural crops used manure it was easier, and easier. Actually, the compost as an organic fertilizer appeared only with the development of greenhouses and botanical gardens, where overseas riche plants were received with special requirements for the quality of the soil.

Compost is not a garbage

Gardeners and gardeners were set to the quality of soil substrates, adding certain components with pharmaceutical accuracy. Probably, there were various types of compost - sheet, turf, field, solid, straw.

The main composting system was produced - a system of two pouches, when the compost was constantly over the compost for better overhangship from one place to another, loosened, spilled water. At the same time, ringed rain and dung worms, which were lined or sat down in compost heaps. All this can be read in old agrarian-thematic books, and in more modern techniques for greenhouses.

But already 50 years old - as cut off: the compost began to be treated as a garbage.

Where did it go, it is not clear. In solid publications, the recommendations of this type are reprinted: the entire organic, vegetable residues, garden tops, paper, kitchen lumps, toilet waste "are composed. And all this - in a bunch somewhere in the backyard, so that it does not stink and do not call the eye. When you see such a compost, it becomes Merzko. And everything is carried out in a row, including dairy packages, shell, chicken bones, newspaper paper. But this rubbish will fall under the plants - and they will be drawn out of it, and send them to the fruits and berries that we will eat! Disgusting ...

Right compost

Maybe restrict ourselves to mineral fertilizers? Or use only manure? Yes, of course, if the "compost" is just such - a worm. However, I as a specialist of agriculture on his garden plot I will not apply the manure, but I will better make the right compost.

Why? First, a large number of weed and fodder seeds are made with manure (which on the lawn are also considered as weed) herbs. And secondly, composed lawn sch and fond of foliage from my site are best fertilizer The length of my plants, than if there is a brought manure from where.

As already noted, the traditional composting system is a system of two pouches. It is clear that in this case there will be no compost somewhere in the gap between the barn and the fence, you need to manipulate it, you need to freely approach it, drive up with a wheelbarrow. Poes for good compost are completely unacceptable.

Bear service novice gardes have drawers of composters with a lower grazing. According to the constructors, organic residues fall asleep into a certain amount, rot - overheat, and from the bottom through the slot-hatch-door, the ready-made compost is raised. The gardener of the gardener is enough just to get a shovel of the lower overloading layer of compost, after which the non-inflexible layers will be devastated down. I want to ask; And before that, they hung in the air that Pi? In fact, as soon as you open the bottom door from such a composter and the finished compost will be offended, so in its place immediately falls off the undetended remnants that prevent further extrusion.

This article has no place for the story of proper system Composting in the box, about its model and volume. But the fact that it is often for sale under the guise of a compost box is difficult and inconvenient. Over time, the gardener acquires another such drawer - and everything returns to the system of two heap. But then it is logical to make a two-piece composter. And it is not difficult to make it.

Where to position the composter

Optimally - closer to the garden, on an easily accessible place. Preferably in the shine, then the compost will not disperse. And so that the composter does not call the eye, you can plant a screen of fruit bushes, viburnum, hawthorn. Next to the compost pile, such cultures are growing well as Topinambur, horseradish, sorrel, and even a pumpkin on a more or less equipped garden.

What and how to make a composter

The simplest and multiplely tested composter model is two-section. In fact, these are the same two heaps, only fenced with walls. The size of the projection of one section is approximately 1 * 1 m. Make less - you will not unfold, too large (up to 2 m) - uncomfortable, and there are a lot of places. Instead of a square projection, you can make a rectangular, there are no strict criteria. The power base of such a composter is 6 vertical bars (cools, pipes) installed in pairs in a row: 4 at the corners of the composter and 2 between sections. The back and side walls are closed. The material can serve trimming boards, lining, slate, acel. The walls must have a certain strength, so as not to fall under the pressure of the loaded herbs and leaves. Sometimes it is recommended to cover the walls with a grid - say, Rabita. It is permissible, but such compost will quickly disperse, and it must be shed, especially if summer is dry.

Fast wounded material (slate, acel, brick, concrete, iron) is critical with the onset of cold and frost. Bacteria and mushrooms, although heated by a compostable mass, but reduce their activity at night temperatures below + 5 ° C. Wooden designs Contribute to maintaining the internal temperature of the compost. The danger of rotting wooden walls, of course, is.

But here is my composter, made of waste of anything not treated with lining, is worth more than 15 years, and when he rotes, I will make a new one. If the tree is handled, then the service life will be more. In addition, from the boards, it is convenient to assemble the removable-collapsible front and intersection walls. Why collapsible? Because when laying a large volume, for example, the lights of the walls should be high, and when the compost is mounted - part of the wall can be disassembled. When compost is ready and removed from the section, the wall is dismantled at all.

Culture bacteria

In the system of two soup compost, the compost was regularly shocked, twisted, poriously added dung, ash, peat. Such manipulations are permissible in the system of two sections, but if there is a culture of composting bacteria, they are superfluous.

Science is constantly moving forward, and it is strange to abandon its achievements. It is not necessary to avoid the use of agrarian new products, even in such a thing, I would have a minor business, like composting. The culture of specially derived bacteria allows you to make the most efficiently recycling organic residues. It is available, it is inexpensive, stored for a long time. The most successfully bacteria work on a homogeneous material. For example, the lawn SCH, loaded into the componence section to a height of about 1.5 m, a week after adding the culture of bacteria sedated half. And after 2.5-3 months, the compost was ready. While without adding bacteria, the compost overwhelms more than six months.

The bottom of the composter does not need to overlap - the nutrients seeping out of the compost to the ground fertilize the ground by 1-2 m around the composter. In addition, with an earthwide, the rainworms will easily fall into compost.

Well, why in the composteter - the section section, if composting goes so fast? Just because in a short time it is impossible to spend the entire old compost, and the new mass for composting needs to be folded somewhere. So it turns out: in the spring you open a section with a compost; Non-dried grass and foliage, collected in the fall under frost, throw in an empty section; We gradually spend the prepared compost, and you put a new mass into an empty section, add bacteria and with time you sleep more herbs. In practice, the old compost is fully spent in the fall, when it is mounted and closed with remnants fruit bushes. As a result, the composter is included with one filled and one empty section.

How and that lay in the composter

I think I convinced that no peeling and toilet waste to add to the composter is needed. Wearing branches, durable herbaceous stems - is also not worth it, as they will drop slowly. They are better to burn - and already in the form of ash add to compost. Wood sawdust and chips when overloading consumes a large amount of nitrogen. With their composting, nitrogen should be added in the form of mineral fertilizers or fresh nitrogen, and it is better to burn and add chips and sawdust and add as ash or coal.

Juicy herbs are most successfully composed. And if we are talking about compost as a valuable organic fertilizer, then it must comply with this definition.

For proper composite preparation, a homogeneous, peelled grass mall or foliage can be used in the mulch mode. The beveled unpacked grass requires strong moisturizing and tamping. It is optimal - to lay it with layers with a thickness of 20-30 cm and move the urea or ammonium nitrate (2-3 handstone per 1 m 2). Well, when such a layer of grass falls asleep by Sich.

As lawn grass It mounted throughout the warm season and is periodically added to the composter, then its layers can also be shielded with mineral fertilizers, for example complex, and ash. Compost is necessarily watered (10-20 l per 1 m 2 area) and closed with a film.

Also a very detailed article on compost preparation Read: Right landing fruit tree -...

: Cooking compost directly in thermal chamber ...

: Depth of the Earth Pumping - What ...

: How to cook compost in ... washing ...

Biopreparations are preparing themselves

How to make a drug from efficient microorganisms yourself, for garden processing?

About the shop em drugs a year ago I already wrote the following:

"... The formation of the right vegetable-microbial community is akin to the connection of the computer to the Internet. Computer capabilities immediately increase many times. Symbiotic mushrooms and bacteria in the rhizosphere isolated antibiotics, thus suppressing the pathogenic microflora. This consists of one of the secrets of fantastic results from high-quality rhizospheric flora stimulants.

Dozens of laboratories around the world are studying the symbion mushrooms and produce preparations based on them, competing with each other and proving that their drugs are the best.

Such a way, in my opinion, the most promising. After all, we are not a plant that "navigate a wagon", and help the plant to join symbiosis with soil biota, which we would like if we are committed to organic farming.

We have preparations based on rhizosphere stimulants little familiar to most gardeners, know and use mainly like Baikal Em.

But why does the EM drugs rarely meet in the Western markets? What are foreigners write about them.

"... The first widely promoted drug was created in the 1980s in Japan prof. Terio Higa. Initially, the drug was created to dispel the soil in gardens and lowering soil toxicity.

In the preparation, there were 3 groups of microorganisms initially, which could be multiplied with joint cultivation: yeast, lactic acid bacteria (lactobacteria), photosynthetic bacteria. Then up to 3 types of microorganisms were added to different composites. The statement of some about 80 types of microorganisms in the drug is nothing more than fairy tales.

The Japanese drug turned out to be multifunctional, it began to be used as probiotic - by adding animals to drink, to destroy odor in livestock premises, for composting and, finally, to decompose the preaching residues by spraying them with subsequent sealing. Many domestic drugs were created based on the Japanese Cusse tea: lactic acids, yeast, photosynthetic bacteria, but they are much poorer in the strain of diversity - usually one strain of each species.

Many drugs that appeared a few years ago under different names (the first Baikal) were thereby multiplied by the Japanese Cusus and well "worked" at the first time. Then turned on folk art, ceased to use Japanese Zavskaya, did something domestic craftsmen, and the drugs remained one registered trademark And the former memories that once he worked well ... "

***

Brief the essence of technology. Everyone has different climates on the plot, different soil, different cultures. Therefore, a different set of efficient chains of microorganisms was usually formed. But in the soil, no mee is effective and mushrooms, nematodes, simplest and algae (see my articles on this topic). Not to mention the worms.

If you put the organic organic on your soil, cover mulch and water - then all this living creature will grow rapidly. If you are this organic, put this organic, put in a bucket with nutritional broth and skip air (oxygen), then the number of these utility microorganisms will grow in millions of times. The gardener is able to pour their garden right away until they are alive and died.

This is an interesting alternative to an overdue EM, in which only beer yeast remains. But even there is benefit from them. True, not as from making useful microorganisms, which, they say, are coming up, but from "feed" for microorganisms in your soil.

Initially, I will try to talk a little about theory, although I understand that the specialist my reasoning will seem primitive, and ordinary gardeners are unnecessary.

Every day, assigning antibiotics to small patients, I hear an alarming question from my parents: "Doctor, and what should I give our children to restore the deceased intestinal flora so that there is no" dysbacteriosis? "
And I always answer, nothing needs to be made from drugs. Just ensure the child the right environmentally friendly food and lifestyle. And the broken intestinal microflora will quickly come from your child to normal.

So in the garden. Gardener pursue diseases and pests of plants. He purchases the Mountains of "Chemistry" and sprinkles the garden. Commercial companies They offer another mountain of "chemistry" to allegedly restore the deceased garden microorganisms.

I treat it calmly.

If serious, so-called "quarantine", pests and diseases appear in my garden, I will never use the Tips for the Neighbor Grandmother or the marketer from the store. I will read serious scientific literature, getting a drug with proven efficacy, and I will use it. And even better: getting rid of non-irisoned frowning plants and replace them with modern resistant diseases by varieties.

For example, in my garden there are no varieties of currant and gooseberry muced dew. Yes, and apple trees sustainable people are quite a lot.

But I want to specify the gardeners to the key link, the base, thanks to which it is possible to maximize the stability of plants to diseases, so that without "heavy chemistry" to receive decent yields.

***

Basis Fundament - Caring for Rizosphere of Plants. It is the subtlest layer of soil microbes that surrounds the root hairs of plants, which plants themselves create, attract their root secretions, supplies active hormonal substances and antibiotics by plants and makes them as resistant to the harmful effects of the medium.

Moreover, our plants passed a selection for yield. Accustomed to survive and give yields with constant chemical feeding and chemical protection. We studied to live in symbiosis with soil flora and it is necessary to help them unobtrusively in this.

I will give practical examples.

Maximum yields of cheap Chinese products can be obtained without thinking about the biota of the soil, but using drip feeding with a set of batteries and hormonal substances. But we do not need it.

I learned to get decent vegetable crops, introducing a good compost into the soil and, reasonably applying long-playing fertilizers with local contributions. This topic wrote a series of articles. But even in this case, the plants are worn out, cease to attract friendly microorganisms and any natural cataclysm, stress, causes an outbreak of diseases and crop death.

Therefore, I agree with O. Telepovy and A. Kuznetsov, who recommend not to be made under the plants ready compost, but to mulch the beds and the garden of coarse not recycled organic mulch. Carbon compounds of such a mulch attract hundreds of consumers, the chains of effective microorganisms are created, with which the plants come into symbiosis. The crop falls a little, the health of the garden, the soil and the gardener itself arrives many times.

Without an understanding of the subtleties and nuances of such a mulching, a novice gardener, bringing naked sawdust, risks to remain without harvest.

Another example. Suppose I inspired my beds or a garden with dung and sawdust. Then shed them by Baikal Em. What do you think? The microorganisms contributed to my beds? Never! When they come to a new territory, where the microbes-aborigines are dormant, will begin to bravely process the organic, occupying a new niche. There will be a new impetus for the processing of organics, but the EM themselves will quickly become food for sleeping predatory aborigines, and wave food chains sweeps on your site, producing food products for the roots of your plants. And you will immediately see how your plants came to life and moved into growth. This is loved by gardeners, and buy uh drugs.

But this impulse lasts long. So that the plants grow constantly well need to give them new portions of the organic, or often stimulate Baikal Em.

Everything will happen in the same way, if you are your beds with a "permanent", whey, (beer, infusion of grass) You will host the organisms that will start rapidly decompose the organic aboriginal and create a pulse of food chains, and a faster decomposition of coarse organic, to Available compost roots.

It turns out that the first option (the finished compost) and the second option (active mulch) are very close by the mechanism of action, we simply feed the plant with organic fertilizers without creating an active rhizosphere.

I wrote about the phenomenon of "Sakhalin soil, with gigantic plants." Granted the phenomenon of the soil of the garbage heap. And this phenomenon was successfully used. The essence of it in another, and not in the simple composting of the organicity with the help of uh preparations.

One more example. I am annually a bed in a robbery mulch autumn foliage, remnants of the hay, a dull bedding from rabbits and goats and leave weeds. All this litter is permeated with a thick root network, which have a very active rhizosphere microflora, (symbiotic mushrooms and bacteria, mostly nitrogen phyxators). And it is this flora that does not only digest the resulting coarse organic, and also absorbs nitrogen from air and phosphorus and potassium from the fallopian rocks (which is simply so rooted). That is, the soil formation accelerates ten times, the deficient nitrogen is accumulated without making manure and urea, not to mention that the soil structure is made unusually loose, lumpy, air and moisture.

If you make a rich carbon fiberglass from year to year, constantly, then in the soil the elicids of this organic are changing. Aboriginal flora changes, more active not only bacteria appear, but also mushrooms, amosa, nematodes, algae, and rainworms for them, etc. And these chains of microzhnism are made very stable and friendly for cultivated plants. On such a soil, your plants do not just consume ready-made batteries, and form a very active rhizosphere and therefore will be better to resist stress and disease.

Therefore, "chemistry" on such soil I apply less, and the crops are increasing without prejudice.

In fact, when I water the soil of the rhizosphere stimulators, for example, ribov
(The drug made from rhizospheric microorganisms), then I stimulate the soil formation in the rhizosphere zone, which I need. And when I water the soil by Baikal or phytoosporins, I stimulate the processing of the organic outside the roots zone, as in the compost pile, i.e. Just composting the organic on the garden, accelerate this process. I give plants not a fishing rod, but a finished fish.

I hope you understand that it is all the same different things.

Come to the main one.

Example. I take a bit of soil (organics) with the "trash heap", the soil overgrown with weeds in aisle, containing symbiotic mushrooms and bacteria, amosa, nematodes, algae, put it in water with malt and I swallow air. All this useful and aboriginal for my beds flora multiplies in millions of times. And immediately, until she died, I water my beds. This is such a biota accurately takes place and displacing all soil pathogenic mushrooms and bacteria and enrich the rhizosphere of cultivated plants.

What will happen if on a uninhabited island with Papuas land the fattened oily white Europeans. The result, as in the song - "... Aborigines ate Cook."

Everyone understands that if on a poor organic land, where there are no sustainable food chains, you overlapping your landings nitrogen fertilizers (not important, manure or urea), your plants immediately expose the attack of aboriginal concrete bacteria. The result, as in the song - "... Aborigines ate Cook."

You will follow the recommendations and add an excess of phosphorus for balance. But phosphorous plants subjected to the attack of minecori-forming mushrooms. The gifs of such fungi useful for trees are crying in the soil in search of phosphorus, and will eat your cultivated plants, and phosphorus will be transferred, for example, to the nearest pine. Again, as in the song - "... Aborigines ate Cook."
IN wildlife A variety of biological organisms is the essence of life.

Soil power circuit is sometimes provided in the form of a simple table, effective for studying, but too simplified for real display of things. In fact, we understand only a part of what is happening in the soil and can identify only a small proportion of organisms living in it. In horticulture, regardless of the gardener's talent, it would be foolish to assert that I found a final answer to the question, whether to put mushrooms from the forest, and water the garden with useful microbes from the test tube.

The approach recommended by some "guru", more resembles rates for good luck. Many microorganisms will not fit the habitat conditions in your environment, and they will quickly disappear. Other these conditions will fall to taste, and they will begin to dominate the root zone. You can only hope that the dominant microorganisms are favorable. In addition, it is necessary to understand that the bacteria are coming up much faster than many types of mushrooms, especially mycorrhoids.

In the wild, most of the established ecosystems are dominated by fungi, however, these systems have passed long evolution over a long period of time. We are just now beginning to understand the whole process of evolution that occurred for 350 million years.

And now let's see (in a simplified form), as paramount four groups of microorganisms (bacteria, mushrooms, unicellular (amosa and infusoria), nematodes) are presented in three different ecosystems: agricultural fields, a black meal steppe and a mixed forest.

If bacteria in the soil in all three ecosystems is about the same amount - from one hundred million to a billion in one gram, then fungi (we take the total length of the fungi hyphams) in one gram of the soil of farmland only a few meters, in the steppe soil- from ten to one hundred meters, in the soil of deciduous forests- Several hundred meters, and in one gram of the soil of the coniferous forest - from one to several tens (!) kilometers.

Although there are two main groups among mushrooms: the so-called humus saprotrophs - mushrooms growing on the humus layer of the soil, in which there is a mushroom, and undermined saprotrophs- Mushrooms growing on the forest litter.

Now about the simplest (unicellular). In the hardened soil and in the soil of the steppe approximately the same content of the simplest: several thousand flames and amoe, several hundred infusories per gram, but in forest soil hundreds of thousands of AmoB and a small number of simplest.

Nematodes. In one gram of the cultivated soil from ten to twenty nematodes that feed on bacteria, several nematodes that feed on fungi, several nematod predators. In one gram of steppe soil, there are few dozens to several hundred nematodes, and in one gram of forest soil several hundred nematodes that feed on bacteria and fungi, as well as many nematod predators.

As you can see, each ecosystem is characterized by a different ratio of the number of representatives of the four main groups of microorganisms. This ratio is determined by climatic factors, the type of soil, as well as the degree of human activity.

In soils of agricultural land, meadows and pastures, bacteria are dominant. That is, the biomass of the soil is presented in the main bacteria. The ratio of biomass bacteria to biomass fungi in such soils is from 5: 1 to 1: 1. In the soil of the deciduous forest over bacteria, fungi is dominated in the ratio of 1: 5 to 1:10, and in coniferous forests, this ratio reaches from 1: 100 to 1: 1000.

If the field or garden do not pump up for several years, the biomass ratio of bacteria- Fungi will shift toward fungi.

More an important indicator is a variety of groups of microorganisms. If in the soil of an ancient cave there are 2-3 thousand different functional groups in the desert- 10-15, in the steppe to 20, in shrubs- 25-27, in deciduous forests- up to 30, in coniferous forests- 32, in tropical forests- 33 thousand functional groups. The soil of our gardens, poisoned by a mineral water and disturbed by Popile, is close to the soil of the caves.

Why I talk about it in such detail. Whatever, you finally, I enabled. When we shed the garden soil to the shop "EM" drugs, we introduce from 2 to 10 functional groups of microorganisms (you can't keep any more in the test tube and you will not save), and we need to strive to increase the variety of up to 20-30 thousand, only then the soil ecosystem will become sustainable, And the plants will hurt less.

I mentioned the phenomenon of the "trash heap." How many functional groups are there?

Bacteria is the first, the most numerous group of microorganisms, in one gram of compost contains up to 1 billion bacteria. And in one gram of high-quality infusion um own production It may contain up to 100 billion bacteria.

Simplest. In one gram of the compost, several thousand flavored and amoebas may contain several hundreds of infusories. They feed on bacteria and some kinds of fungi, while releaseing nutrients contained in them.

Fungi. The compost may contain fungi shared from several meters to hundreds and even thousand meters. The main food for fungi is organic residues with a high carbon content - leaves, trunks and branches of fallen trees, outlines, cardboard, paper, wood chips and bark. Therefore, I never apply fresh manure in the garden, but only underlining, with a very large content of coarse carbonistic organics.

Fungi allocate the strongest enzymes that decompose lignin, the main component wood materials, on simpler sugars and amino acids, which, in turn, become food for bacteria. For the vital activity of fungi, the humidity of their habitat is in the range of 40-50%.

Nematodes (incomprehensible for gardener group of microorganisms). In one gram of compost, you can always count to several thousand nematodes that feed on bacteria, fungi, plant roots, as well as nematod predators (eating other nematodes). To maintain optimal conditions, the vital activity for beneficial nematodes is very important, as for bacteria, unicellular and fungi, the level of humidity in the soil and the presence of oxygen. Without them, the soil is not loose. It is, infusories and nematodes (as a wolf in the forest) makes the soil ecosystem to be stable and diverse.

And all this, as stated above, you will never find in purchased drugs, but they will always be in preparations of our own production.

The revolution in my glances occurred after one experience.

On a lifeless sandy land in my new garden, rare aborigine weeds were grew. The roots of them went deep into the soil no more than 10 cm. Cultural plantsLocated on this sand died all if I did not bring mineral water and the organic. I tried (in the form of experience) cultural landings to hide the solutions of uh drugs, weak influences, humats. There was no effect. Some microbes and stimulants without food elements. Plant growth is not stimulated.

After a few years, turning the grass and surface application of manure, there was some percentage of humus in the soil. And I saw wonders.

Even without feeding the roots went into the soil already at 20 cm. But if the plants I watered weak solutions of the infusion of grass (without mineral and organic feeding), the roots were growing deep into the meter. Naturally, the tops are twice the neighboring (without stimulants) plants.

But, the most interesting thing happened when I took a shovel with a trash heap pearated raws, placed in a bucket with water and a day passed air from the compressor, then this infusion of microorganisms spray plants on the poor land (in the garden), to control the plants growing growing On the rich humus land (in the garden). I did it several times per season. The result was instructive.

If there is a slightly spraying on the poor earth, the plants stimulated slightly, the spraying of the "garbage humming" stimulated the plants very noticeably. The plants were not only higher, but they stood saturated with green, and did not suffer from diseases and drought.

On the rich humus land, the results differed. Here the growth stimulation was practically not noticeable, there was enough nutrition in the soil. But the plants without spraying were hardly reacting to the protracted rains, they were pale, they faded from the heat, (they suffered from stress). When spraying with the infusion of "weed heap" pleased the eyes of the health of all summer (opposed stress and diseases).

***

After that, I began to study literature on the rhizosphere stimulant. And understood the following:

Fitogormons are one of the important factors on which the growth of plants is depends on the main phytogorms, stimulating growth processes are formed in the meristems. Auxin is formed in the apical meristem, the auxin is formed, in the root of the root - cytokinines, in the generative meristem, which will give the beginning of the flower - bragsinosteroids. Gibbelllin is formed in the leaves and roots. It is these hormones that determine the influx of nutrients to the place of their formation, and consequently, the maximum concentration. It is these hormones that determine the hierarchy of the meristem - which one of them will receive nutrients, and therefore the growth of the organs that this measurement gives rise to.

Many gardeners successfully apply Epin, Zircon, Zajaz (Gibbellin). At the same time, the hormonal regulation of root growth is paid less attention than increasing escape. Some use, perhaps, only heteroacexin, and about ribava, symbion, do not know almost nothing. But scientists consider this particular drugs the most promising. IN stressful situations, as well as at the beginning of the vegetation and with active growth, phytogormons are not enough, and the plant is used to cover their deficiency by symbiosis with microorganisms living in the rhizosphere of the plant, receiving phytogormon analogues from them and providing them in return nutrients.

Pretty many hormones, especially at the beginning of the growing season, the plant receives from microorganisms, mainly mushrooms living in the intercellular space of the body of plants.

Most of the phytirate regulators (mainly synthesized analogs or antagonists) has its effect through phytohormones, increasing or blocking the activity of any of them, which leads to a change in the signs.
In fact, the logistic of everything to affect the hormonal system of the plant, adding the missing hormone from the outside.

Another part of the phytore regulators (mainly - natural origin) It affects the activity of symbiotic microorganisms, stimulating the developing of them from the risen-told substances (this is exactly what is most interesting for me).

Preparations of the group "Symbiount" are developed and manufactured in MSHA. K. A. Timiryazeva. Microtrofal plants are used to produce these drugs, from which the clean culture of endophyte is distinguished and multiply on the nutrient medium. Next, Bav is extracted from biomass of mushrooms. At present, the most active is the symbilation-3, obtained from Erva's endophytes of the roots of Erva woolly plant.

But there are also drugs such as Eminem-R, Eopel 1/3 and Eoppon 1GF (Biolan, Agrropon-C) and a newer Micephite. They contain substances that attract and stimulate the soil microflora to the formation of a symbiotic rhizosphere, which plays a huge role in proper nutrition plants. Useful microorganisms on the chain process the nutrients from the soil, transferring them to an easily exhausable form and supply them the plant in the amount you need. And with the slightest nitrogen shortage in the soil, billions of nitrogenophixators of the rhizosphere eliminate such a deficit.

In addition, these substances are natural regulators of growth and root formation of plants, these are not just banal phytogorms, but a fundamentally different class of drugs, referred to as elikitors. The effect of them proper use, the thoughts of magic and magic seeks, because the next day after processing the plant, they change the color on saturated green and begin to grow violently.

Elisitors send a powerful signal to the plant: "Protect!", And the plants grow so strong. Elycitors are essentially vaccine for plants, causing induced systemic resistance to disease.

Now it became clear to me why the infusion of compost from the garbage heap was on my site such a miraculous effect. After all, this pile is all sorted by roots wild plants. And there were not just microorganisms processing compost, but also rhizosphere microorganisms, and, that is especially important, the mushrooms are symbilation. In essence, I received the extract of the rhizosphere stimulants with the same efficiency as patented midfit and ribover and, in addition, reinforced by thousands of aboriginal microbial symbiotic communities.

When spraying plants, all these communities reaches the rhizosphere, partially take root in it. In the future bacteria, algae, mushrooms and the simplest, in turn, produce useful enzymes, organic acids, antibiotics, growth hormones and other nutrients, reaching the rhizosphere, these growth stimulants are then absorbed by roots and transported to the leaves, stimulating the synthesis of carbohydrates and Imaging the stressability of the plant as a whole.

***

So, I will share my experience, as at home to prepare an infusion containing thousands of living aboriginal microbial symbiotic communities, primarily rhizosphere microorganisms and, especially important, symbion mushrooms.

At first about the rules of compost preparation, for these purposes. I have my secrets, I will share them.

I hold rabbits, a rabbit bedding, where there is a lot of not only litter, but also the residues of the hay and feed (with vitamins and trace elements), we collect in white bags from the feed, and I endow them into the shady corner of the garden, where the opponent grows. I lay them out in one layer on the ground under the trench. In the head of the foliage of the opponent for 20 years of its growth, a particularly active microbial community was formed, (as in Sakhalin Large) a lot of rainworms. After a couple of weeks, thousands of worms and other livelies are covered with a rabbit bedding. Together with you, they will spread tens of thousands of functional groups of microorganisms and the natural processing of the organic organics begins with their aboriginal for my zone and for my garden microorganisms. In the summer, on hot days, the compost is ready in a month, it is done loose, bulk, with a magnificent smell of bread (from feed) with a shade of spring earth. Note that I do not spend any effort to shut down a large boot with manure and construction of composting facilities.

I made a bag weighing 30 kg. And I get 15 kg of compost, in which 50% of the sedentary organications, and 50% is the net weight of living microorganisms. Since the roots of the socket always penetrate into this bag that is sprouting, they accelerate repeatedly composting and saturate compost with a particularly valuable rhizosphere biota, creating the effect of the garbage heap.

What is important, in my compost in a month of work worms, nematodes and other predators, there is no pathogenic bacilli, mushrooms, halmins dangerous for humans and plants. All this will first of all be eaten and reworked by "predators" in conditions of wet, porous, well aerated medium. Since I clean the cells every 2 weeks, I always have a compost conveyor varying degrees decomposition. Late in the fall bags with a compost, I will call in the barn, and it does not lose efficiency until spring.

The question of beginners will arise, we do not have a socket and rabbit manure. What to do?

In any garden or nearby there are corners where you are to demolish the garbage and the tops of your plants, the nettle is growing, the swan and the other Bournan. Their rhizosphere is not at all inferior to the opponent, and if such a garbage bunch has existed 5 years, then there has already been formed a natural, rich in a variety of microbial community. Put your bags with organic. Not necessarily manure. Enough and foliage of the garden, beveled weeds, slightly add to the remains from the table, bread, bones, in extreme cases, buy a little cheap feed from Bran, that you will attract all the worms with your trash can.

You can make a compost box, and make compost for all the rules. But when the compost matures, do not be lazy, collect the seeds of the plantain with the nearest meadows or the seeds of Taghetis (velvetsev) and sit at compost. Let them come and the roots carrying the symbion mushrooms and the active rhizosphere biota will penetrate into the compost. So it will be reliable. So you will satisfy the compost with phytore regulators and hormones of natural origin, and you will not need to buy "hormones" in the store.

Now I will now share even more important secrets as these billions of useful microorganisms from the compost translate into the solution, repeatedly multiply them, and shed, or spray their plants.

Technology is well described by the manufacturers of the EM drug.

Need water without chlorine. At 10 liters of water, it is desirable to add a glass of malt extract, it is sold in all stores, you can insist a few crusts of bread or add residues of jam. Carbohydrates are needed to multiply microbes.

But, there is a fundamental difference with EM technology. Our useful microorganisms in the compost live in a well-aerated medium. If they are placed in a solution with malt, they will quickly die, they will be rotated and will be eaten by putrid microbes. Therefore, as soon as you place the compost into the solution, you need to turn on the compressor immediately and pass the air.

And so, after the room usually 2 liters of compost on the water bucket with malt, and the inclusion of aeration, microorganisms and various substances (Organic and inorganic, soluble and insoluble) fall into an aqueous medium saturated with oxygen. Under these conditions, they begin to actively multiply, especially those microorganisms that are aerobic, that is, capable of living and multiply under conditions of high oxygen content in water. Anaerobic microorganisms in such conditions either die or go to sleep state. Depending on the type of feed additive (malt, jam, or infusion of weighing herbs), those or other groups of microorganisms begin to develop. Often, additives are a variety of variants of border herbs or herbs in a mixture with manure, compost or purely dung and compost info. You can fed separate herbs: nettle, tail - and you can all, so-called dynamic herbs together. You can also use the method of fermentation of rhizome weeds with stems, rhizomes and flowers. Those who believe in vermicompost- Can use infusion of such compost.

In the process of breeding, organisms use additives as food, actively consuming oxygen. At this stage, the control of oxygen content in water is especially important, when aeration is disconnected, after -30 minutes, the oxygen level in water drops so much that the mass death of aerobic organisms and the reproduction of anaerobic, extremely unwanted for our purposes begins. In most cases, such a solution is no longer amenable to correction. It is impossible to use damaged solution.

Average at temperatures ambient 20 degrees Celsius, the preparation cycle of microbial infusion lasts about a day, i.e. 24 hours. At a temperature of 30 degrees. The cycle lasts about 15-18 hours. If the process lasts too long, microorganisms consume all nutrients and cease to multiply, while many groups simply disappear, becoming food for other groups.

Naturally, the question arises: how to determine whether the process of cooking is correct?

The drop in the oxygen level can be easily determined by smell. A good microbial infusion has a pleasant smell of fresh land. The infusion, in which the anaerobic microorganisms began to multiply, acquires an unpleasant (rotten) smell. The infusion should be applied during no more than 4 hours after preparation, while the shelf life depends on the ambient temperature - the higher the temperature, the less shelf life. Given the time required for delivery to the place of use, sometimes you have to use infusion directly "from the wheels". This is the difference between your microbial infusion and store EM. On the scale of the garden, we can keep the microorganisms alive we needed, in industrial installations mainly retain the yeast cells and Bacill disputes.

Each microbial infusion cooked own hands, in itself unique- This is something individual, creative, combine and can create as you like.

As I use such an infusion.

From the autumn, the garden and beds I mulch my organic to animals. If there are warm days from late September, then I spray this mulch with infusion. But most importantly, spray all the soil with mulch in early springWhen at the end of April, the soil begins to warm up. By this, you increase the temperature in the root layer of our plants by 5-10 degrees, and spring in your garden will come 2 weeks earlier, and autumn 2 weeks later. I recently wrote about this in the article about grapes.

Naturally, the infusion before filling into the sprayer, it is necessary to profile, but through a large sieve, so that nematodes and amuses in the solution are. And to spray therefore, it is necessary not to the smallest drops, and the drops of core.

Garden spray, and the soil, and foliage - 3-4 times per season. I try to fit the rain, the microbes should penetrate the soil. The garden can be sprayed more often up to two times a month.

It is necessary to remember, you bring not only effective microorganisms with a solution that will process the organicity, and to make it available for food plants, and more importantly, stimulate the growth of the roots and create a very active rhizosphere in the root zone. Help plants to join symbiosis with microorganisms, symbiotic mushrooms, due to strengthening the secretion of carbohydrates roots. The process of soil formation in the root zone is accelerated at times. The roots are styled with carbon dioxide, coalic acid together with microbes and mushrooms destroys the uterine rock and makes minerals available for nutrition, nitrogen intakes, using root secrets, are absorbed and accumulated in the soil of nitrogen from air. Thus, your plants not only endure food from the soil, and even accumulate it for subsequent generations. This is sometimes lovers of chemical feeders do not understand.

Spraying of foliage also benefits plants. Mikrobov film- Anaerobov, protects the leaves from diseases, and a huge amount of phytohormones - elitators sharply increases their resistance to pests.

Do not forget before applying to dilute with infusion with water without chlorine. For foliage, I dilute 10-50 times. The effect of the same. For spring processing Soil I dilute no more than 5-10 times.

Perhaps the main thing told. I convinced that my "homely" microbial infusion differs significantly from "branded uh drugs." I hope, convinced that it is not necessary to blindly copy the Guru advice, you must try to understand the mechanisms of action of the used drugs and agrotechnik.

Gennady Runopov , Borovichi

Bacteria for compost are the useful high concentration microorganisms, for high fiber content, such as straw, CRS and MRC, etc. Bacteria for compost improves productivity and waste decomposition rate, these bacteria have been carefully selected, experimentally brought to an improved bacterial and fungal mixture of high concentration. These strains are intended for the best survival, reproduction and enzymatic decomposition of organic waste during composting, in order to improve the use of solid waste cellulose and the production of humus compost in agriculture. Bacteria (cellulase, xylanase, amylase, decomposition enzymes containing lignin) contribute to the release of sugar from cellulose, hemicellulose, starch and other carbohydrates in the compost. Bacteria effectively inhibit (suppress) reproduction of bacteria and invertebrates, thereby neutralizing the pathogenic flora of unpleasant odors. The effective combination of beneficial microorganisms will significantly reduce the time of compost fermentation.

Advantages of bacteria for compost:

• Reduction of organic waste in volumes;
• An effective way to extract nutrients from organic waste;
• Production of high-quality fertilizer for soil, including mineral, improvement of the structure of soil and aeration (exchange of soil air with atmospheric, soil ventilation), as well as improving the ability of the soil to keep water, including weakened clay and sandy soils are more resistant to deterioration of moisture;
• Increase soil fertility and stimulating the healthy development of the root system of plants;
• Composting organic substances gives food for useful bacteria, and then maintain a healthy balance of microorganisms in the soil;
• Bacteria in the fermentation process produce nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, which makes it possible to replenish the reserve of mineral substances in the soil.

Working mechanism:

Composting is the process of decomposition of organic waste, plant residues and other annual plants. The decomposition occurs due to such processes as oxidation (air), restoration and hydrolysis (water). For a full-fledged fermentation process, it is necessary to provide suitable environmental conditions. Compost bacteria are produced large quantity Heat generated during decomposition process, temperature from 30 to 60 degrees Celsius (inside composted Kuchi.) It is considered a suitable temperature for the normal composting process. So heat It is necessary for rapid decomposition of waste and contributes to the destruction of cereal weeds, insect larvae and pathogenic microorganisms.

Technology of operation:

Dilute 1 kg of product 20-40 liters of water (without chlorine), process 5-6 tons of waste (spray once). On the perimeter of the compost heap, install pipes for air intake inside the layers. Upon reaching a temperature of 55 ℃ - + 60 at each point, on 5-7 days of the fermentation process, make a mixing procedure for the intake of oxygen (for the best effect, repeat this procedure two or three times). If the temperature is dropped inside, the fermentation process is completed. For most organic materials, 10-15 days are required to complete the composting process.

Note:

1. Humidity control:

The initial period is the humidity of 35-55% (wet crumbly consistency). If the humidity is too high, you can add sawdust or straw to remove excess moisture. If the material contains more than 55% water - add dry wood chips intermediate period (7-10 days) - an increase in temperature, as a result of which the decrease in humidity. The final result is a humidity of 20%, after the completion of the composting, we recommend that one day is as long as possible. ready product For the desired saturation of moisture.

2. In the process of composting, avoid exposure Direct sunlight (possibly use of canopies), which will allow the fermentation process to flow as quickly as possible. Night polyethylene filmWhen using plastic shields perflate the walls. Provide air exchange indoors.

3. Product B. open video Store with humidity no more than 10%to avoid premature germination dispute. In vacuum packaging, the shelf life of 2 years from the date of manufacture.

Biological preparation for the processing of excrement of the liquid fraction.

The composition of the biological product is biologically -active agents from various bacteria and their enzymes that are non-toxic and environmentally friendly. In the production of discharged organic waste, they are dangerous, emit an unpleasant smell, even stench, lead to the leaching of the soil, and as a result, to pollution of the environment, which in turn affects the life and health of people.

The biological product specializes in the processing of excrement of the liquid fraction, trace elements convert waste into water and carbon dioxide and effectively destroy unpleasant odors.

Product Features:

• Disinfectants and deodorizing properties of the product inhibit the growth and reproduction of pathogenic flora.
• The product has a high-efficient effect on the source of unpleasant odor in the role of suppressing smell generation, which makes it possible to drastically solve the problems of environmental pollution.

Using:

• 50 grams of product designed for volume in 5 cubic meters mix with 2.5 liters of water, to 45 minutes to leave water at rest for the activation of bacteria, then pour the mixture into the tank, if necessary, repeat the operation.
• Product contains useful bacteria Natural collection, biological activity of enzymes is very powerful and effective in splitting organic waste, while not toxic and does not cause pollution in the environment.

Alternative way to use the product:

To destroy the unpleasant odors at the place of animal stay, it is recommended to produce the following processing: a biological product in the amount of 10 grams to activate in 500 ml of water and spray it on a clean and dry surface of the chamber in its lower part. Then place the animal (or bird) on the square, it is desirable that the animal would be clean and dry, further wake up thin layer Biological preparation in dry form on the top of the chapter. The product will be activated from moisture in natural processes, removing the smell. Highly affected areas in 45 minutes can be processed and without removing from the surface, to give a biopreparation to dry by naturally.

Term with the continuous flow of excrement in the reservoir -3 month, recycling without filing excrement for 10-15 days

Storage:

Store at room temperature and moderate humidity in vacuum packaging for 2 years, after 2 years the product loses its properties by 10%.

Biopreparation for composting of plants residues

The microbial product containing non-pathogenic useful microorganisms and enzymes in high concentrations that destroy various macromolecules and are able to produce digestive enzymes in the process of composting to destroy protein particles and organic matter in the compost. The working mechanism of the composting process is the process of decomposition of plant residues, in the process of which the substances are very useful for home and garden plants. Microorganisms in the process of composting generate a lot of heat, up to 60 degrees Celsius, such a temperature is necessary for rapid decomposition of waste and extinguishing odor, but also contributes to the destruction of herbal weeds, insect larvae, harmful bacteria and may interfere with the reproduction of certain diseases that impede the normal growth of plants.

Benefits:

• Reduction of organic waste in volume.
• The effective method of extraction of nutrients from organic waste, as well as microorganisms in the compost produce nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.
• After the composting process, organic waste is transferred to the status of stable, hygienic, humus products to improve the composition of the soil.
• Composting product can be used for home and garden plants.
• The effective combination of beneficial microorganisms is significantly reduced by compost fermentation, 10-15 days (with low ambient temperature up to 21 days), the composting process becomes fast and profitable.
• The finished compost improves the structure and texture of the soil, its ventilation, increases the thickness of the soil to keep water, stimulates the development of healthy plant roots.
• This processing reduces ground pollution and water caused by leaching of garbage dumps.

Technology of operation:

• Dilute 1 kg of product 20-40 liters of water (without chlorine), process 4 tons of waste (layer, once).
• On the perimeter of the compost heap, install pipes for air intake inside the layers.
• Upon reaching a temperature of 55 - + 60 at each point, on 5-7 days of the fermentation process, to produce a mixing procedure for oxygen flow (if possible, repeat the procedure).
• If the temperature is dropped inside, the fermentation process is completed.

Note:

1. Humidity control:

• The initial period is the humidity of 35-55% (wet crumbly consistency). Excess moisture remove the addition of sawdust, straw or chips.
• The intermediate period (7-10 days) is an increase in temperature, as a result of which the humidity decrease.
• The final result is the humidity of 20%, after the completion of the composting, we recommend that one day is as follows to expand the finished product for the required saturation of moisture.

2. In the process of composting, avoid exposure to direct sunlight (possibly use of canopies), which will allow the fermentation process to flow as quickly as possible. Do not close the plastic film overnight, when using plastic shields perflate the walls. Provide air exchange indoors.

3. The product in the open form is not more than 10% in humidity, in order to avoid premature germination dispute.

Storage: Store in a dry cool and ventilated place for 2 years, after 2 years the product loses its properties by 10%, avoid direct sunlight.

2013-07-02

EM-preparations, or in other words, effective microorganisms are concentrates manufactured on an industrial scale that contain useful microbes that are in a steady inactive state intended for long storage. The basis of EM-preparations is photosynthetic and lactic acid bacteria, yeast, actinomycetes and enzyme fungi.
By the way, if you hold the houses of flowers means fertilizers and earth from them can fall on the carpet, so you can use the carpet dry cleaning service on the site Cleaning-puls.ru.

EM-technologies were created more than 20 years ago by Japanese scholars-microbiologist Higa Tera. The idea was to restore the microbiological composition of soils exhausted by intense agriculture and making a huge number of synthetic fertilizers, pesticides and other chemistry to restore the microbiological composition of soils.

EM-Preparations

Increase the content of useful microorganisms in the soil.
Heat the soil, as they restrain the growth of phytopathogen, increasing the number of antagon germs.
Improve the structure of the soil.
Contribute to improving the mineral nutrition of plants.
Biologically active substances are isolated and plant growth is stimulated, increase their immunity and yield.
Improve the quality of the fruit.

As a result of such a recovery of the soil, as a huge organism, in which life, an imperceptible human eye, will feed itself and renew. Our scientists have developed domestic Emki. And they really came to the taste for many gardens. Among domestic drugs are the most common: "Baikal-Em-1", "East-Em" (their several modifications: for the processing of seeds, for the irrigation of the soil, for watering plants), "radiance", "revival". By the way, they are successfully used in the harvesting of compost (we will tell about this in detail in the next room of the dacha season).

Someone notes that the sustainable effect of the use of EMC is observed only for the second year of application, while others notice it after 2-3 weeks. It all depends on the initial conditions: the composition of the soil, processing methods used to this fertilizer, the amount of organic injuries, climatic conditions, water regime and others. All of them is impossible to envisage.

How to apply um preparations?

Detailed instructions for the use of a particular EM drug can be found on a bottle or packaging. But at the same time must be observed general rulesMore precisely, the principles of use. Enthusiasts of natural agriculture believe that by shifting all the main work on soil microorganisms, we can only create them comfortable conditions For normal vital activity:

Give them organic waste as a nutrition and stop pulling the land with a turn of the reservoir;
It is desirable to looser only the upper layer of the soil at a depth of no more than 5-7 cm, populated mainly aerobic microorganisms, which need oxygen for life. Thus, we stimulate their development. In addition, the roar of the upper layer of the soil, we do not violate its structure, providing water and air permeability;
make preparations in the soil or spraying on plants only in the morning or after rain, and not in sunny weather, since the sun's rays are destructive for microorganisms and can reduce the effectiveness of drugs;
preparations in the soil are preferably in warm weather, as the development of microorganisms is activated;
The spraying of plants should be finely dispersed, as large drops are easily rolled from the surface of the leaves;
The effectiveness of any microbial drugs increases with the simultaneous use of organic fertilizers and observance of crop rotations.

In short, uh-preparations are something like yogurts that we drink to restore the body's microflora and thus immature. Thing, in one word, useful. Although the sake of justice should be said that it is possible to restore the microflora of the organism and the usual rustic cooked cooked at home from the pounded milk with the addition of a tablespoon of sour cream.

Similarly, new-fashioned EM drugs can be prepared at home. And you, our dear readers, have repeatedly sent us such recipes. For example, when you told how we get into the barrel of weeds from our garden, potato tops and add a little fresh manure there. What is not an uh preparation?

Here are some more letters from our editorial post, Viktor Mikhailovich Parshins from Kaluga: "I do this nourishing" compote ". A barrel with a capacity of 250 liters per third fill with crushed weeds - nettle, swan, oral and others. Add medicinal herbs - Yarrow, chamomile, pyrzya, plantain, lamb - and also in a barrel. I add as half an ash. You can add two compost to this barrel to this barrel, and even better compost prepared by EM technology. Then pour the barrel with water. The nutritional mixture must be broken for one or two weeks. I dilute the infusion in the ratio of 1:10 and under each bush I use 1 l of this "compote". All the feeder speaks well vegetable crops, shrubs and trees. "

Elena Vladimirovna Mikhalev from Cherepovets: "I use EM drugs already, probably, about 5 years old and imperceptibly some results, but on the other hand, as if everything spars itself. Well, sudden yourself: I have a particularly once in the garden, but it is planted to plant everything, I scatter, I miss the case, we do not need it ... and sometimes even Diva myself, as everything grows! In the fall, the land of Earth somewhere, in the spring, the surrounding bed, I also, among the summer, still pollen. Tomatoes sprayed once the same solution. I didn't even blacken tomatoes in frost. And in the heat everything surrender. Whether Emka is "to blame", whether I am so lucky! "

Victoria Vladimirovna seven from Novgorod: "I can say with confidence that when using an EM-drug (I buy a concentrate and laughs herself) the germination of seeds (any) is almost 100%. When sowing seeds, I water the soil with a solution of Emki is already somewhere 3-4 seasons, and has never happened that the seeds do not go. Sometimes I wash them home lemons and yucca, and those and others grow like on yeast. "

In a word, we were given information to reflement to you, and then you can decide, apply EM drugs or not.

A source: " Country season” №5, 2013

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