Wooden houses have always been famous for their special properties. They are reliable, comfortable, durable, practical and beautiful, but, like any other structure, they need additional thermal insulation. The roof of a wooden house is a structural element that must be insulated in the first place. It accounts for significant heat loss, regardless of what shape and design it has. How to insulate the roof of a wooden house? What materials will you need for this? Let's try to figure it out in order to carry out the roof insulation work correctly and without additional financial costs.
Detailed video instruction on roof insulation
What is the process of insulating the roof of a wooden house
Insulating the roof of a wooden house is a laborious process that includes several stages. At the first stage, the roof space is waterproofed. It is best to use a membrane or polyethylene film as a waterproofing coating. They are more durable, practical and affordable. At the second stage, a heater is mounted, on top of which a roof covering is laid if the method of external roof insulation is chosen. If the attic space was insulated, thermal insulation materials are most often hidden with fiberboard or MDF sheets, thereby improving the appearance of the roof and creating additional sound insulation.
It is important to remember: insulating the roof of a wooden house not only improves the microclimate in rooms, but also reduces heating costs by up to 40%.
In winter, the insulation retains heat in the house, in summer it protects the building from exposure to ultraviolet radiation and heat. Its service life largely depends on the correct installation and strict adherence to technical requirements, on average it is 10-15 years.
The choice of materials for thermal insulation of the roof structure
The range of heaters for sale on the market is diverse. Mineral and stone wool, glass wool, polyester foam, polystyrene foam, expanded polystyrene - it would seem that what could be easier than choosing the right material? But, nevertheless, in order not to uselessly spend money, it is important to keep in mind that for the internal insulation of the roof of a wooden house it is most appropriate to choose mineral wool, polyester and expanded polystyrene mats.
For the external thermal insulation of a flat roof of a wooden house, bulk and liquid heaters are perfect. They have high technical properties, low thermal conductivity, fire resistance and environmental friendliness.
Important: when choosing insulation materials for the roof of a wooden house, you should pay attention not only to their cost, but also to their service life. It must match the lifespan of the roof covering. Otherwise, the roof will have to be blocked.
What are the requirements for the heat-shielding roof layer
Thermal insulation materials, regardless of their type, must meet the following requirements:
- comply with environmental regulations, in other words, do not pose a threat to human health and the environment, contain a minimum of toxic substances and formaldehydes in its composition;
When installing insulation, it is important to follow the sequence of technical work
- have low thermal conductivity. It is recommended, as an alternative to insulation for the roof of a wooden house, to choose a material with a thermal conductivity of no more than 0.04 W / m ° С, otherwise it will not fully cope with its main tasks;
- differ in small volumetric weight. Insulation materials should not bear a large load on the roof truss structure;
- - keep in shape. Most often, light materials are used to insulate the roof of a wooden house; they should not crumple under the pressure of their own weight;
- characterized by high vapor permeability. The created layer of thermal insulation should help remove accumulated steam and moisture from under the roofing space, otherwise it cannot be avoided;
- have good sound insulation properties. It is desirable that the selected insulation protects the house not only from the cold, but also extraneous sounds, contributing to the creation of a comfortable environment in the rooms;
- be fire resistant. Thermal insulation materials should not contribute to the spread of fire in a fire;
- be characterized by sufficient density. Its minimum indicator is 15 kg / m 3. The higher it is, the better the thermal insulation properties of the structure.
It should be borne in mind: no matter which company produced the insulation, the main thing is that it fully meets all the above requirements.
Methods for internal and external thermal insulation of the roof of wooden buildings
There are two main methods of roof insulation - internal and external. What is the best and easiest way to insulate the roof of a wooden house? Internal thermal insulation is considered less costly and laborious. It does not require dismantling the roofing and preparatory work, it is carried out quickly and simply: waterproofing is laid on the crate - membrane or polyethylene film, it is attached with ordinary construction brackets, a layer of heat-insulating material is laid on top of it. The most commonly used sheets are mineral wool or polyester.
External roof insulation is a more time-consuming process that requires special compliance with technical regulations and building codes. In its course, a layer of hydro and thermal insulation is laid on the wooden crate, on top of which the roof covering is laid. During installation, it is important to do all the work correctly and make sure that the insulation does not wrinkle. If such a mistake is made, not only will the service life of the thermal insulation be reduced several times, but its quality will also deteriorate significantly.
It is better to entrust the external thermal insulation of the roof of a wooden house to specialists, since the process has many important technical nuances
Despite the fact that the roof insulation of a wooden house is simple and easy, it is not recommended to rely on your own strength. Only experienced professionals, knowledgeable in the matter of roofing thermal insulation works, can install the insulation so that it performs the assigned functional tasks as efficiently as possible and contributes to significant savings in heating resources spent on heating. Any mistake made during the selection of material and work can lead to additional financial and time costs.
For a roof over your head to be reliable, and a home warm and comfortable, roofing alone is not enough. It is necessary to insulate the roof in a wooden house from the inside, only it guarantees a full heating of the room, with minimal heat loss. No extra spending on heating will be needed: in any weather the house will be comfortable.
Physical processes in the space under the roof
Under the roof of the house, processes take place that determine the choice of materials for insulation: Moisture exchange. Vapors arising in the process of human life (breathing, cooking) rise up to the roof. In the presence of high-quality insulation of the roof of a wooden house, the level of humidity in the room will be optimal. Heat exchange. The heated room air rises to the roof, through which part of the heat goes out. A layer of insulation prevents this, maintaining a comfortable temperature inside the house. Condensation. Moisture droplets are formed when cold air comes into contact with hot air, settling on the roof. This leads to increased humidity, from which materials gradually deteriorate. A layer of high-quality waterproofing can save you from trouble.
Types of heaters
The structure and type of insulating material will depend on the structure of the roof, pitched or flat. There are several of those in modern construction markets.
Mineral and ecowool
This material is a fiber-structured insulation. This is a weave of thin fibers, between which there are layers of still air. Mineral wool is of two types. The first, glass wool, is formed from a fused silica glass. Basalt rocks are involved in the production of the second. The resulting material is called stone (basalt) wool. Glass wool as insulation has several positive qualities:
- Flexibility. The material is suitable for thermal insulation of areas with complex geometry, while no additional cutting is required.
- Ease. Due to its low specific gravity, glass wool does not exert a significant load on the roof, and its installation does not require excessive physical effort.
- Elasticity. You can lay glass wool in a space slightly smaller than the insulation block itself. The transport of the compactly laid mats is also very convenient due to the elasticity.
In addition to the positive aspects of using this material, there are also disadvantages:
- Glass wool is hygroscopic. Therefore, it is worth paying special attention to steam and waterproofing.
- Brittle fibers. Small glass particles get on the skin and cause irritation and allergic reactions. When working, you will have to use protective equipment (gloves, respirators).
- Formaldehyde emission. You cannot do without the use of such substances in the production of insulation. But manufacturers of quality glass wool are trying to reduce the emission rate. Their products can be used in wooden residential buildings and medical facilities.
Basalt wool has a number of advantages over those made of glass: The fibers of this material are more flexible, as a result, they break less. Stone wool does not cause a strong negative reaction in the body. Nevertheless, it is undesirable to neglect protective measures when working with it. Good vapor permeability. Humid air trapped on the material is not retained in it, evaporating through the ventilation gaps. Thanks to special processing, basalt material absorbs much less moisture than glass wool. Formaldehyde emissions are kept within normal limits, as evidenced by sanitary certificates with approval for use in residential premises. It is useful to ask for a copy of this document when purchasing insulation. The flexibility of the stone wool slabs makes it easy to install. Some manufacturers, such as Rockwool, create a material whose edges are a little springy. This makes it easier to lay between beams, rafters.
The disadvantage of basalt wool is only its higher price.
Another fiber insulation that has appeared on the markets relatively recently is ecowool. It can be based on waste from wood and paper processing. The cellulose content of the material ranges from 80 to 85%. The rest is additives that provide biological stability (boric acid) and fire retardants that reduce the fire hazard. Ecowool pluses:
- Environmentally friendly. The components of the material are natural.
- Resistant to fungi, mildew, rotting - thanks to special processing. Rodents and insects do not settle in ecowool.
- This insulation is considered to be slightly flammable. When ignited, it quickly dies out, does not release toxic substances into the air.
- Not afraid of moisture. The material is quite hygroscopic, but moisture evaporates from it without causing harm.
There are two ways to insulate the roof with ecowool: dry and wet. In the second case, the material is moistened with an adhesive solution and sprayed onto the slopes. But since the consumption of insulation during such processing is quite large, ecowool is often sprayed into cavities created by vapor barrier membranes or the inner lining of the attic. Minuses:
- For spraying, even dry, you need a special installation.
- When working with ecowool, the help of an experienced builder may be required.
- The process of treating the roof with insulation is quite dusty; you will have to use closed clothing and a respirator.
- Despite the reasonable cost, ecowool is quite expensive. The price of the services of the craftsmen is almost equal to the price of the insulation itself.
Features of expanded polystyrene
Extruded polystyrene foam is a synthetic material akin to the familiar foam. When using it as a heater, it is worth keeping in mind some of the features of the material:
- Compared to Styrofoam, Styrofoam is much more durable.
- The insulating properties of the material are also higher.
- Expanded polystyrene, thanks to special additives, ignites poorly and quickly dies out in the event of a fire.
- This material is durable and resistant to moisture.
- Due to the rather complex production technology, which only large, proven companies can do, low-quality material is almost never found on the markets.
The disadvantage of expanded polystyrene is its rigidity. A material with a similar structure is difficult to fit in the size of the area; gaps will inevitably remain during laying. They will need to be sealed with polyurethane foam. Another disadvantage of synthetic materials is the release of toxic substances during combustion. But if the extruded polystyrene foam is almost non-flammable, then the foam is quite easily flammable. Therefore, it is not advisable to use it as a heater. One of the most popular brands of synthetic insulation is Penoplex. This name has become a household name for polystyrene foam.
Application of polyurethane foam
Polyurethane foam refers to sprayed foam insulation. It fits well on the surface to be treated, has no seams that allow cold to pass through, and has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity. In addition, the material is almost vapor-tight, which makes it possible to save on vapor barrier. With all the advantages, the insulation itself is not cheap. It is synthesized using special installations, directly at the place of work. This will require additional costs for calling the wizards. Disposable spraying devices are available, but they are nearly as expensive as a team call.
Use of expanded clay
Expanded clay is one of the most popular materials for roof insulation in a house made of timber or brick. It is the result of firing clay at a high temperature in a special oven. There are three types of expanded clay, differing in size:
- expanded clay gravel (5–40 mm);
- expanded clay crushed stone (crushed granules, 5–40 mm);
- expanded clay sand (up to 5 mm).
You can use the material of several fractions at once. But the advice to insulate the roof with gravel is found among professionals more often than others. Positive properties of this type of thermal insulation:
- bulk material has no seams and does not need fasteners;
- expanded clay is environmentally friendly, it does not emit toxic fumes;
- the material is not destroyed by mice or insects;
- expanded clay is refractory;
- heat losses during its use are significantly reduced;
- the sound insulation of the room is improved.
The disadvantages of bulk insulation are its weight, which gives an additional load on the supporting structures, abundant absorption of moisture by the material and its fragility, leading to a violation of the integrity of the granules. This leads to a decrease in the level of thermal insulation.
Features of sprayed materials
One of the most convenient and practical are foamy sprayed compositions, characterized by low thermal conductivity:
- Polyurethane foam is an aerosolized polyurethane foam sealant.
- Penoizol is "liquid foam".
- Sprayed polyurethane.
Pros of using sprayed materials:
- High-quality adhesion. The fit to the material is very tight, without gaps.
- Lack of cold bridges, joints, seams.
- Convenience for handling difficult areas.
- The speed of applying the composition.
- Improving the sound insulation of the room.
- Ease. These materials do not add any additional load to the roof.
- Immunity to pathogenic microflora. Also, insects will not start in this insulation.
Foam insulation is in good contact not only with wood, but also with metal, additionally protecting it from corrosion. Minuses:
- Applying foam insulation may require special skills and equipment, which will result in additional costs.
- The price of the material itself is quite high.
- The components for obtaining the sprayed composition emit toxins into the air, therefore, personal protective equipment will be needed during work. After the composition has solidified, it becomes harmless.
The structure of the layers of insulation
There is such a thing as "insulation cake" or "roofing cake". This is a set of protective layers that ensure the comfort of the room. All layers in this "pie" are in a certain sequence. Each of them has its own function:
- overheat protection;
- prevention of rainfall;
- protection against condensate accumulation in the roof;
- retention of warm air in the room.
The sequence of arranging the layers of insulation from the attic to the roof:
- Vapor barrier. Protects the roof from moisture evaporating inside the house.
- Thermal insulation. This layer traps air, which in turn traps heat.
- Waterproofing. A layer that prevents precipitation from entering the insulation.
Methods for thermal insulation
Depending on the type of roof, its insulation can be done in two ways. Insulation of a flat roof begins with the lining of the floors with a vapor barrier film. The joints are glued with tape. Then the insulation is laid. As a waterproofing, you can take roofing material, covering it with a heat-insulating layer with an overlap of 10 cm. Additionally, a layer of expanded clay is added for sound insulation. If the height of the ceilings permits, you can insulate the roof from the inside of a wooden house - this applies to buildings with a flat roof. To do this, a crate is attached to the ceiling, a vapor barrier is placed on top. Insulation plates are laid under it. From the bottom, the crate is sheathed with decorating material. Before proceeding with the installation of thermal insulation of the ceiling from the inside, it is necessary to calculate the dew point and exclude the possibility of condensation getting on the insulation.
When installing a mansard pitched roof, the outer walls and the bottom of the roof should be insulated. Inside the roof is insulated by covering the rafters and the space between them with a waterproofing film. Secure the film with a stapler. Then insulation is laid between the beams. It needs to be covered with a layer of vapor barrier material and finished with plasterboard, clapboard or other finishing material. Insulation of the attic roof begins with the laying of a waterproofing film, onto which counter-battens are pushed for ventilation. Then the insulation is tightly laid. The bottom layer will be a waterproofing material glued at the joints with tape. Next comes the finishing material.
Work technology
Having familiarized yourself with the technology of performing work, having learned how to properly insulate the roof, it no longer seems difficult to do it yourself. A minimum of construction skills and quality materials for work will help to cope with this task. It is best to insulate the roof during construction. It is advisable to remove the old roof. If this is not possible, it may be difficult to install materials between the rafters.
Calculation of the thickness of the insulation
α ut \u003d (R 0 pre-0.16) · λ ut This is the formula for calculating the required thickness of the insulation, where: α ut is the thickness of the insulation, m. R 0 priv is the reduced resistance to heat transfer of the coating, m 2 · ° C / W, the higher it is, the better the thermal insulation properties of the material and the less it will be needed. The value can be found in the tables, it depends on the location of the settlement where the room is located. λ ut is the thermal conductivity coefficient of the insulation, W / (m · ° С), it is indicated by the manufacturer on the material. Substituting certain values \u200b\u200bin the formula, you can calculate what is the optimal thickness of the insulation for the roof.
Cutting materials
Fiber insulation boards are cut (you can do this with a construction knife) so that they fit snugly against the rafters. To do this, leave an additional allowance of 10-15 mm. Stiffer polymer boards are cut exactly to size.
Waterproofing
As a hydro-barrier, you can use both a diffuse membrane and a simple waterproofing film. Condensation in both cases is retained on the material. But on the film, it settles from the side of the insulation, and on the membrane from the outer, roofing side. The advantage of a diffuse membrane is obvious, therefore it is recommended to use it. The waterproofing material is laid with the moisture-proof side up. You need to start from the bottom, moving towards the top of the roof. The membrane must be placed with an overlap of 10-15 cm, gluing the joints with tape. It is not necessary to stretch the material too much so that it is not damaged with a slight deformation, which is inevitable in winter cold. For one meter, it is enough to leave a margin of about two centimeters. Waterproofing is attached to the rafters using a construction stapler. On top of the membrane, using galvanized self-tapping screws, fasten the ventilation rails.
Installation of insulation
If a fibrous material is used as insulation, it must be laid out on a flat surface and left until it takes its original shape. Then cut the material. The resulting fragments are placed between the rafters. To straighten the edges bent when laying, you need to press the middle of the insulation sheet. You can spray polyurethane foam or similar material between the rafters. There are special cylinders with foam formulations on sale.
Vapor barrier device
The vapor barrier material can be laid either vertically or horizontally. In the second case, laying begins from the top. Each layer is applied to the previous one with an overlap of 10 cm. The seams are sealed with tape. Installation is carried out using a stapler or galvanized nails. After that, you can fill the slats for ventilation and proceed to the installation of the outer covering of the attic. A competent choice of insulation and its correct installation will save not only the warmth and comfort of the house, but also money for heating. In addition, a protected roof will last longer, without repairs and additional treatments.
Without high-quality thermal insulation of the house, it will not be possible to save on heating in winter. Walls and floors are not all pathways through which heat leaves a living space. In addition to them, it is also necessary to insulate the roof.
Internal insulation scheme
A kind of pie is a high-quality insulation of the roof from the inside, consisting in almost all cases of three main layers:
- Waterproofing
- Thermal insulation
- Vapor barrier
However, the basis of the entire structure is the rafter system, which will serve as a base link. It is easiest to lay a heat-insulating layer inside it.
Correctly selected materials for each of the layers of the cake are the basis for high-quality insulation. The market is rich in various products, but you should not pay attention only to cheap options, giving preference to the golden mean.
The main purpose of the waterproofing layer is to protect the insulation from moisture from outside. It, accumulating inside it, destroys the structure of the material and makes it unusable. The purpose of the vapor barrier is to keep vapors out of the air.
To protect against humid environments, special membrane or film materials are used. The former have better permeability, but their market value is more expensive. Since it will not be possible to ensure complete sealing of the insulation, it is necessary to provide ventilation gaps and seams.
Introductory video on insulating a pitched roof in a house
Choosing a thermal insulation material
Many manufacturers offer consumers a wide variety of heat insulators, each of which has positive and negative sides. Among all performance characteristics, it is customary to pay special attention to the following:
- The level of moisture absorption - the less this ability of the materials in question is, the longer their service life can be expected
- Thermal conductivity - it should be as low as possible. However, this indicator is relative, since an increase in porosity and importance can significantly worsen it.
- Insulation materials with low density have much better thermal insulation performance
Video on material selection
One should also pay attention to such characteristics as environmental friendliness, chemical resistance, flammability and frost resistance.
The most widespread for roof insulation from the inside are mineral wool and glass wool. They have all the necessary characteristics and are relatively easy to use.
Expanded polystyrene is no less popular. In addition to its high thermal insulation properties, it practically does not absorb moisture, is durable and tough, resistant to high temperatures and open fire. A significant disadvantage is the susceptibility to colonization by rodents. That is why it has not become widespread.
Other less common methods of internal insulation are also possible:
- Spraying is one of the most expensive methods that should be entrusted to a professional craftsman. If you need to insulate an ordinary attic, and not - you should choose this method. Material costs will pay off with performance characteristics
- Thermal insulation with liquid compounds (polyurethane foam or foam concrete) is not very popular, since they require the use of specialized equipment for work
If thermal insulation of a classic attic space is required, additional insulation is made above the ceiling (expanded clay, sawdust, sand, etc.).
We start to insulate the roof with our own hands
The most common case is the insulation of pitched roofs using roll materials. First of all, you need to draw up instructions for yourself, following which you can count on a high quality result. Consider the case when the roof has not yet been laid.
First, you need to go through the attic again and make sure that all the components are in perfect order. If defects are found (decay, cracks, etc.), they should be repaired immediately.
Sometimes various communication systems are laid on the roof: electrical wiring, heating, water supply, etc. They are also subject to careful inspection and elimination of defects. Only after the order has been established can one proceed to further work.
The first step is to apply a waterproofing film to the outer surface. In order for it to fulfill its purpose, several rules must be taken into account:
- It is necessary to lay the film across, while at the joints, strips of about a meter are overlaid, which is glued with tape
- It is necessary to select a material for waterproofing only after purchasing insulation, so that they correspond to each other in terms of characteristics
- In no case should you pull it tightly over the surface. At sub-zero temperatures, it will begin to shrink and, as a result, may burst
Having completed the work with waterproofing, it is necessary to start arranging the lathing. For her, bars treated with antiseptic materials are recommended with a size of no more than 25 mm. Corrosion-resistant self-tapping screws are used for fixing
Roofing materials can be attached directly to the battens. Things will be a little different with a soft roof. It is recommended to place moisture-resistant drywall or chipboard between it and the wood.
The next step is to lay heat-insulating material in the gaps between the rafters. It is recommended to adjust the plates to the width between the rafter opening, the mats are cut into equal pieces.
The material is laid in such a way that there are no gaps between the elements. It should also not be pressed very tightly against the roof, so that the ventilation gap remains.
Another feature is the laying of the thermal insulation material not in one, but in two layers. In this case, they are located relative to each other with an offset to close the through joints.
Having finished with the installation of the insulation, you can proceed to the next stage - tension and fastening of the vapor barrier film or membrane. It is recommended to nail it to the rafter boards with staples. It, in contrast to waterproofing, stretches much more tightly.
Then you can proceed to the final stage of roof insulation from the inside - interior decoration. A wooden frame is stuffed on top of the vapor barrier film, to which the desired finishing material will be attached.
Video on thermal insulation with polyurethane foam
Some helpful tips
Insulating the roof from the inside, not everything can go as smoothly as it seems at the first time. In addition, any rafter system has its own characteristics.
We list a number of rules that can be useful when performing roof insulation work:
- Special attention should be paid to waterproofing and vapor barrier when working with mineral insulation. They are most susceptible to moisture accumulation inside, causing a destructive effect
- Sometimes, under a light roof, the roof truss system is erected from a bar of a small section. In this case, you will have to use a combined method of thermal insulation, placing the material not only between the beams, but also under them.
- When the step of the rafter system is too large, the insulation is additionally fixed with wire, which is pulled between the screws screwed into the rafters
- So that the insulation does not fit tightly between the rafters, its width must be greater than the same characteristic of the openings
- Do not make too many layers of insulation. For example, for thermal insulation with a thickness of 20 cm, two layers of 10 cm are better than four layers of 5 cm
- The insulation can be placed close to the super diffusion membrane. In all other cases, it is necessary to leave a ventilation gap
- It is necessary to monitor the ventilation gaps, which should not be covered with thermal insulation material
In custody
Absolutely everyone can make high-quality insulation of the roof from the inside, which will serve for more than a dozen years, reliably keeping heat and not letting in cold. However, for those who do not want to waste their energy and time, professionals offer their services. The cost of work may vary within 5-25 USD. e. per square.
It is imperative to prepare for the winter period in advance. Especially for the owners of private houses. For this, it is necessary not only to purchase a sufficient amount of firewood or coal, but also to take care of the general insulation of the house. And you need to pay attention to both the walls and the roof. After all, insulating the roof of a wooden house from the inside will provide an optimal microclimate in living rooms, increasing the average temperature in each room by several degrees. In such a house it will be warm even in the most severe frosts. The thermal insulation of the roof, executed in accordance with all the rules, will reduce the cost of operating the house, increase its durability and make living conditions more comfortable.
Wooden house
What opportunities does roof insulation provide?
The reason for the appearance of significant heat loss is natural air exchange and heat radiation. As the air heats up, it rises. This causes the ceiling to warm up, which can be very cold if the roof is not sufficiently insulated. If there is no thermal insulation, a lot of heat will be required. Moreover, this process will take place continuously.
Competently made roof insulation will allow not only to maintain the temperature in the living room at the desired level, but also significantly increase the durability of the rafters and beams used in the construction of the roof.
This is achieved by eliminating the ingress of moisture into the attic, which inevitably leads to rotting of the wooden structure. As a result, the bearing capacity of beams and rafters is sharply reduced, and roof repairs have to be carried out every 3-4 years.
Insulation - mineral wool
The presence of an insulated roof will not only keep the heat in cold weather, but also save from overheating in the hot season. That is why it is quite comfortable in a wooden house when the sweltering heat is on the street.
In addition, roof insulation quite often allows you to significantly expand useful residential assistance. After all, even a very cold room can be made warm in this way, and this must be used to improve your living conditions.
When is it better to insulate the roof?
It is worth starting to insulate the roof only after the shrinkage of the new log house occurs. As a rule, this takes about six months on average. During this time, various defects may appear on the roof, among the most common in this case are all kinds of distortions, cracks. It is necessary to eliminate them even before starting work. In this case, the insulation will be of high quality.
If we talk about seasonality, then it all depends on your personal preferences. Most often, the roof is insulated in the summer, and in the winter the quality of the work performed is checked.
What kind of insulation to give preference to?
Modern heaters are different:
- fire safety;
- excellent thermal insulation properties;
- low weight;
- environmental friendliness;
- ease of installation;
- versatility, which allows you to use the same material for insulation of different roofing systems;
- long service life.
Manufacturers offer a fairly large assortment. In this case, delivery can be made in the form of mats, roll material and in bulk. If you wish, you can always choose the appropriate option for the price factor. In particular, you can insulate the roof using:
The choice of a specific material will depend on the type of roof to be insulated and the financial capabilities available. If you decide to purchase a cotton material, it is better to choose one in the characteristics of which it is indicated that it is hydrophobic. This means that during the production process the insulation was treated with a special compound that prevents moisture absorption.
It is also worth paying attention to the flammability group. For expanded polystyrene, group G1 is preferred. This will not sustain combustion away from an open flame source.
How is a pitched roof insulated?
Pitched roofThis type of roof is characterized by a fairly large area, which leads to the possibility of a large heat loss in the cold season. Especially if the house has an attic floor. Therefore, it is advisable to take care of the thermal insulation device even at the stage of building a house. But if this has not been done or the efficiency of thermal insulation is not high enough, the work can be done in a residential building without resorting to large-scale dismantling of roof structures.
To do this, the presence and integrity of the waterproofing layer is checked, which is traditionally placed between the roof and the rafters during the construction of the house. In its absence, you will have to purchase a special hydro-barrier film that is able to retain water, but at the same time allows steam to pass through. It is also necessary to ensure that the rafters are wrapped with a hydro-barrier film, attaching it with a stapler to the rafters on the right side. In this case, the upper layer will prevent moisture penetration, and the lower one will not impede the removal of steam and moisture.
Now you can start laying the insulation. Preference should be given to roll material and material supplied in the form of plates. Place it between the rafters using light pressure and avoiding gaps. However, it is imperative that a small layer for air circulation should remain between the insulation and the roofing material - blowing. It is she who will prevent strong heating of the attic in the summer. You can fix the slabs using:
- ordinary nylon cord;
- rails packed perpendicular to the rafters.
After laying the insulation, you can proceed with the vapor barrier device. To do this, you need to purchase a special vapor barrier film, which will need to be laid on top of the thermal insulation, attaching it to the rafters. As a result, the heat insulator will be provided with an optimal humidity regime, which guarantees its long service life. If necessary, finishing work can be performed if the attic space is adapted for living.
How is a flat roof insulated?
Insulation of a flat roof can be performed not only from the inside, but also from the outside. Moreover, the latter option, as a rule, is sufficient to create an optimal microclimate in the house.
The sequence of work in this case is as follows:
- a vapor barrier film is being laid;
- insulation is laid or poured;
- it is laid and glued with a resin-based mastic, a roll coating based on synthetic materials or roofing felt. This layer provides protection against moisture penetration;
- bulk material is laid.
Who will do the job?
If you do not want to perform roof insulation in a wooden house yourself, you can invite a team of experienced builders who have been working in this industry for a long time. They will be able to perform the required complex of works in the shortest possible time, ensuring high quality performance.
If the budget is limited, then choosing between the purchase of high-quality modern materials and independent roof insulation, it is better to choose the first option. Maybe in this case it will take a little more time, but the materials to be laid will have unique properties that allow them to keep warm in a wooden house for a long time. In addition, the progress of work can be monitored continuously.
When building a house or renovating it, most often its owners come to the conclusion that the roof and ceiling must be insulated in order to prevent the loss of thermal energy. To insulate the roof of a wooden house from the inside, you need to choose the right thermal insulation material and perform its installation, observing the technology.
It has long been established by experience and calculations that heat losses occur through each element of the house structure. For example, from 20 to 30% of the heat goes through the attic floor and the roof, which means that the same part of the amount paid for burning it was wasted. Therefore, once having invested in high-quality house insulation, you can save all subsequent years on heating it.
It should be noted that if the house is located in a region with a mild winter climate, then many home owners prefer to insulate only the attic floor. However, roof insulation at different times of the year can perform three functions:
- in winter it keeps the house warm;
- in summer it does not allow the attic to heat up, which means it will be cool in the house;
- in addition, the insulation is an excellent sound insulator, so the rooms will always be quiet, even during heavy rain and with any type of roofing.
Based on these arguments, we can conclude that it is best to insulate and soundproof not only the attic floor, but also the roof itself.
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Types of insulation for roof construction
The choice of insulation must also be done competently, providing for the technical and operational characteristics of the material. In this case, special attention should be paid to the following of them:
- Low thermal conductivity.
- Increased moisture resistance.
- Low flammability.
- Environmental cleanliness.
- The durability of the material.
The materials used for insulating the roof and attic from the inside include:
- Mineral wool in slabs and rolls.
- Ecowool made on cellulose basis.
- Expanded polystyrene (polystyrene).
- Penoizol and sprayed polyurethane foam.
- Expanded clay of different fractions (insulation of floors).
In addition, natural materials such as straw, slag, sawdust and dry leaves have traditionally been used. Some builders still use these heaters today, but they require special treatment, since they are not moisture resistant, which means that putrefactive processes and the formation of microflora colonies are possible in them.
All materials used for thermal insulation of the roof are relatively lightweight, therefore they will slightly weigh down the rafter and overlapping structure.
This table presents the main characteristics of the most popular insulation materials today:
| Material parameters | Materials | Thickness, mm | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 50 | 60 | 80 | 100 | 120 | 150 | 200 | 250 | ||
| Density, kg / m³ | Mineral wool | 100-120 | |||||||
| Expanded polystyrene | 25-35 | ||||||||
| Polyurethane foam | 54-55 | ||||||||
| Thermal resistance, (m2 ° K) / W | Mineral wool | 1.19 | 1.43 | 1.9 | 2.38 | 2.86 | 3.57 | 4.76 | 5.95 |
| Expanded polystyrene | 1.35 | 1.62 | 2.16 | 2.7 | 3.24 | 4.05 | 5.41 | 6.76 | |
| Polyurethane foam | 1.85 | 2.22 | 2.96 | 3.7 | 4.44 | 5.56 | 7.41 | 9.26 | |
| Thermal conductivity coefficient, W / (m × ° K) | Mineral wool | 0,038-0,052 | |||||||
| Expanded polystyrene | 0.037 | ||||||||
| Polyurethane foam | 0.027 | ||||||||
| Weight of 1 m2, kg | Mineral wool | 15.2 | 15.8 | 17.6 | 20.9 | 23.2 | 26.7 | 32.4 | 38.2 |
| Expanded polystyrene | 9.8 | 10 | 10.5 | 11 | 11.5 | 12.3 | 13.5 | 14.8 | |
| Polyurethane foam | 11.2 | 11.7 | 12.8 | 13.9 | 15 | 16.6 | 19.3 | 22 | |
Mineral wool
Mineral wool is most often used to insulate roof structures, since this material is easy to install and well suited in terms of its parameters for thermal insulation of the attic of a wooden house.
One of the most comfortable materials is mineral wool
Since this material is made from different raw materials, its characteristics and prices vary somewhat among themselves. And in order to choose the best option, you need to consider each of its types:
- Slag wool is produced from blast-furnace slag and consists of fibers 5–12 µm thick and 14–16 mm long. This option is the most unsuitable for insulating an attic, so you should not flatter yourself with its low cost, since the insulation will have to be repeated in a couple of years.
Slag wool is quite hygroscopic, which means that it absorbs moisture well and, being saturated with it, it settles and loses its thermal insulation qualities. In addition, it has low heat resistance and is classified as G4. This insulation withstands temperatures of only 300-320 degrees, which is a low indicator for its use in wooden structures.
The thermal conductivity of the material is 0.48 ÷ 0.52 W / m × ° K, which is much lower than that of the other two types of mineral wool. During installation, it can be seen that the fibers are slag, rather brittle, brittle and prickly. Therefore, it is best not to use this type of mineral wool for residential premises.
- Glass wool. This type of insulation is made from molten sand and broken glass. The thickness of the fibers is 4 ÷ 15 microns, and the length is 14 ÷ 45 mm - these parameters give the material elasticity and strength. The chaotic arrangement of the fibers contributes to airiness and an increase in the insulating qualities of the heat insulator.
Advanced modern glass wool designed on for heating up to 460 ÷ 500 degrees, which is much higher than that of slag. The thermal conductivity of this type of mineral wool is 0.030 ÷ 0.048 W / m × ° K.
Glass wool is widely used for insulating stone buildings; it is also well suited for the roof of a wooden house. If thermally insulated the attic version of the roof space, then glass wool is often used in combination with polyurethane foam.
Due to the fact that glass wool fibers are very thin, brittle and prickly, they easily penetrate the tissue, can get into the mucous membranes of the eyes or into the respiratory tract. Therefore, when starting installation work, you should protect yourself with protective equipment by wearing a suit made of dense fabric, special glasses, a respirator and gloves.
- Basalt (stone) wool is made from mountain gabbro - basalt rocks. The thermal conductivity of basalt insulation is 0.032 ÷ 0.05 W / m × ° K, the material can withstand temperatures up to 550 ÷ 600 degrees.
It is much easier to work with stone wool, since its fibers are not so brittle and prickly, their thickness is from 3.5 to 5 microns, length is from 3 to 5 mm. They are located chaotically and their interlacing gives the insulation good strength, so the material is sufficiently resistant to mechanical damage.
Basalt wool prices
basalt wool
In addition, basalt insulation is inert to chemical influences and tolerates well the destructive influence of the external environment.
All types of mineral wool for surface insulation are available in rolls or mats (blocks) of different sizes. Today, in hardware stores, you can find foil material, which is more effective for insulation, since the foil reflects and retains heat inside the room.
The main disadvantage of all types of mineral wool is the fiber binder, which is very often made on the basis of phenol-formaldehyde resin. It constantly releases toxic substances into the air that are dangerous to human health. Therefore, it is impossible to call any of the types of mineral wool absolutely environmentally friendly.
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Expanded polystyrene
Expanded polystyrene has become the most popular material for insulating houses, and all this is due to its affordability and ease of installation. But for that so that the attic was insulated thoroughly, without the formation of cold bridges, it is necessary to ensure a tight fit of the heat insulator to the surfaces, which is difficult to achieve using foam plastic, since it does not have the required flexibility. Therefore, it is combined with other insulation materials, including sprayed polyurethane foam.
Plates of conventional expanded polystyrene - foam (left), and extruded
Polyfoam has an average thermal conductivity coefficient of 0.037 W / (m × ° K), but it also depends on the density of the material, as well as its thickness.
Moisture absorption conventional foam is up to 2%, which significantly exceeds this parameter for extruded polystyrene foam - here the threshold is about 0.4% of the total volume of the material.
Prices for expanded polystyrene
expanded polystyrene
The most dangerous quality of expanded polystyrene is its flammability, and when ignited, the material melts, at the same time creating a thick smoke. The smoke emitted from it is extremely toxic and hazardous to health.
Therefore, when choosing this insulation, it is necessary to take into account all its positive and negative properties and secure the house as much as possible from possible emergencies. Particular attention will need to be paid to reliable insulation of the wiring and the correct installation of the chimney ducts (pipes).
Polyurethane foam
Polyurethane foam is applied to roof and ceiling structures by spraying with help special equipment. Spraying is carried out in several layers, so the coating can have a fairly large thickness. With this method of application, polyurethane foam penetrates into all cracks and crevices, so the insulating layer will be completely sealed. While solidifying and expanding, the insulation acquires a high density, and its thermal conductivity is only 0.027 W / (m × ° K), at moisture absorption no more than 0.2% of the total volume of the material. And this means that there is no loss of its thermal insulation qualities.
The sprayed polyurethane foam quickly expands and hardens, and its excess is easily cut off with a sharp knife, which adds convenience in adjusting the finished coating to the level of the rafter system for further finishing or roofing work.
Using this material, you can refuse waterproofing, wind protection and vapor barrier - it perfectly copes with the whole complex of problems without trapping steam and not letting moisture inside the room.
Polyurethane foam is sprayed on any surface: horizontal, vertical or sloped, as it has high adhesion to all building materials.
Ecowool
Ecowool is made from small cellulose particles. Laying of this material can be done "dry" and "wet".
Environmentally friendly material - ecowool
- In the first case, the insulation is scattered between the floor beams and compacted as far as possible by rolling. In this way, it will not be possible to lay on walls and roof structures.
- For the "wet" method of installation, special equipment is required, where the dry substance is mixed with adhesives, and then, under pressure, by means of a pipe, it is distributed to the floors and walls.
"Wet" installation of ecowool
- Another option for insulation with ecowool is to fill the space between the rafter legs, after fixing a finishing material on them, for example, drywall or wooden lining. In this case, you need to correctly calculate the amount of material - it will depend on the height of the rafters, which will determine the thickness of the thermal insulation.
Ecowool has a number of advantages over other insulation materials, and the following can be attributed to them:
- It is an environmentally friendly material that does not emit any harmful fumes into the environment.
- Ecowool is able to "preserve" surfaces, preventing the development of fungal and putrefactive formations.
- If, during the operation of the house, it turns out that the thickness of the insulation layer on the roof is insufficient, then it can be increased or compacted already laid material.
- The insulation is laid quickly enough.
- Ecowool has a long service life without losing its original thermal insulation qualities.
- Cellulose insulation material is necessarily processed with fire retardants, therefore it has a very weak flammability and a tendency to self-extinguishing. In addition, ecowool does not smoke, and even more so it does not emit substances hazardous to the human body.
- Ecowool, applied to any surface, forms a seamless, sealed coating of the required thickness.
- Insulation is a "breathable" material, so moisture is not retained in it.
- The payback period for such insulation is one to three years.
The table below shows the comparative digital characteristics of two environmentally friendly materials - ecowool and expanded clay, which will be discussed below, discussed below.
| Material parameters | Expanded clay gravel | Ecowool (cellulose) |
|---|---|---|
| Thermal conductivity coefficient, W / (m ° K) | 0,016-0,018 | 0,038-0,041 |
| Density, kg / m³ | 200-400 | 42-75 |
| Density of adhesion to the structure | Depending on the faction: | Tight fit, clogs all crevices and cracks well |
| - 15-20 mm - the presence of voids; | ||
| - 5-10 mm - snug fit. | ||
| Linear shrinkage | missing | |
| Water vapor permeability mg / Pa × m × h | 0.3 | 0.67 |
| Chemical inertness | neutral | |
| Flammability | incombustible | G1-G2 (slightly flammable material, because it is treated with fire retardants |
| Moisture absorption,% by weight | 10-25 | 14-16 |
Expanded clay
Expanded clay is very often used to insulate the attic floor of a wooden house. Of course, the rafter system with expanded clay insulate it is difficult, but filling it between the floor beams on pre-prepared surfaces will not be difficult.
This material is made from specially prepared clay that undergoes high-temperature heat treatment. Expanded clay is produced in four fractions, ranging from expanded clay sand to large elements 20 ÷ 30 mm in size.
| Fraction, mm | Bulk density, kg / m³ | Total density of the material, kg / m³ | Compressive strength MPa |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 - 4 | 400 | 800 - 1200 | 2,0 - 3,0 |
| 4 - 10 | 335 - 350 | 550 - 800 | 1,2 - 1,4 |
| 10 - 30 | 200 - 250 | 450 - 650 | 0,9 - 1,1 |
Expanded clay prices
expanded clay
The advantages of this material:
- Ecological cleanliness. It does not cause allergic reactions and does not emit toxic substances into the surrounding atmosphere.
- The insulation does not lose its original thermal insulation properties throughout the entire period of operation.
- For insulation, you can choose a material of a suitable fraction - the density of the backfill will depend on this. The finer the fraction, the denser the filling.
- Expanded clay is a non-combustible material, which is a very important quality for a wooden structure. This insulation is used to isolate the chimneys from wooden floors, filling it into a box built around them.
- Another important advantage of this material is that it is not tolerated by domestic rodents. If the house is located on a suburban area, then even in the attic, mice can easily settle in it, and some heaters create quite suitable conditions for this - but not expanded clay!
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Supporting materials
In addition to heat-insulating materials, a waterproofing (windproof) and vapor barrier film is used in the insulation "pie".
- Waterproofing is necessary in order to protect insulation against condensation, which can collect between the heat insulator and the roof. In addition, this material performs a windproof function, preventing cold, dust and moisture from the air from getting directly to the insulation, as well as into the attic.
This membrane must have vapor permeable ability - excess moisture in the insulation will simply evaporate into the atmosphere.
If the insulation is carried out in an already mounted structure and it is not planned to change the material of the roof, under which the waterproofing membrane should be located, then sprayed polyurethane foam will have to be used for insulation - it does not require protection from the wind, and it can be sprayed on ona reliable base of boards or directly onto the roofing.
- When insulating the roof slopes, the insulation is closed with a vapor barrier film from the side of the attic. The vapor barrier is designed to protect the thermal insulation material and wooden elements of the truss system from moisture penetration from the inside.
As you know, excess moisture that gets on insulation and wood can lead to mold and rotting, as well as an unpleasant odor, which will eventually pass into living rooms.
If it is planned to equip a heated room in the attic, then the vapor barrier film should be fixed under the wall decoration.
When insulating the floor, the vapor barrier is laid under the insulation, on the boards and beams of the structure, since it must retain heat in the rooms below and not allow wet vapors from them to get into the insulating layer.
The protective membrane is produced in different thicknesses and can be made of foil or non-woven material. If a film with a foil surface is used, then it is mounted on the roof slopes with the reflective side towards the attic. When insulating the floor, it should be turned towards the lower room. This is done so that the heat is reflected into the attic or towards the living rooms and does not go outside. Between themselves, the canvases are glued with foil tape, which will help to create the integrity and tightness of the membrane.
If you want to save money, you can use the old proven methods of vapor barrier, when the gaps between the attic floor boards, as well as their joints with the beams, are well coated with a paste made from lead, clay. Such protection will not only create a high tightness of the floor, but will also protect the wood from the appearance of pests, and will also allow the insulation layers to "breathe".
When the lime or clay is well dry, you can proceed to insulation operations. By the way, for a long time, wooden houses were insulated with sawdust - for this they were mixed with the same clay and a little lime was added to the mixture, which gave elasticity to the composition. In addition to sawdust, other natural materials were also used for insulation, which were dried and laid between the floor beams.
This method of vapor barrier and insulation is still used today, as it helps to save a fairly decent amount. But all such work is very laborious and requires certain knowledge, skill and time.
Those home owners who want the work to go faster, use modern materials.
How to calculate the required insulation thickness?
It is not enough to decide on the type of insulation, based only on its environmental friendliness, ease of installation and cost. It is very important to correctly calculate the required thickness of the thermal insulation layer. This is also necessary for that so that create comfortable conditions in the room, in order to avoid overpaying for unnecessary material.
Combing t the required thickness of insulation is determined by special guidelines documents - SNiP 23 — 02-2003 " Thermal protection of buildings"And the Code of Rules SP 23— 101-2004" Design thermal protection of buildings". They provide formulas for calculations that take into account a very large number of parameters. But, with some admissible simplification, the following expression can be taken as a basis:
δut \u003d (R - 0.16 - δ1 / λ1 - δ2 / λ2 – δ n/ λ n) × λout
We begin to understand the values \u200b\u200bavailable in the formula:
- δut- this is the required parameter, the thickness of the layer of thermal insulation material.
- R - the required tabulated value of thermal resistance (m2 × ° WITH/ W) of the insulated structure. These parameters are calculated for each region of Russia in accordance with specific climatic conditions. Such thermal resistance will ensure, with a properly calculated heating system, maintaining a comfortable temperature in the room of + 19 °. The diagram below with a map of Russia shows the meaning Rfor walls, floors and coverings.
When calculating insulation for the roof, the value "for coatings" is taken, for the attic floor - "for floors".
- δ n and λn—the values \u200b\u200bof the thickness of the material layer and the coefficient of its thermal conductivity.
The formula allows you to calculate the thickness of insulation for a multi-layer structure, taking into account thermal insulating properties of each of the layers, from 1 before n... For example, a roofing "pie" will consist of a solid plywood sheathing over rafters with roofing felt on top. Below is a layer of insulation, which has to be calculated, and then the ceiling will be hemmed with natural wooden clapboard. Thus, three layers will be taken into account: lining + plywood + roofing material.
It is important - only those outer layers are considered that are tightly adjacent to each other. For example, you can take flat slate into account, but wavy ones no longer. If the roof structure requires a ventilated roof, then all layers above the ventilated gap are not taken into account.
Where do the values \u200b\u200bcome from? Measure the thickness of each layer ( δ n) – will not be difficult. The value of the thermal conductivity coefficient ( λ n), if it is not indicated in the technical documentation of the material, it can be taken from the table below:
| Estimated thermal performance of some building and thermal insulation materials | ||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Material | Density of materials in a dry state, kg / m3 | Design factors for various operating conditions | ||||
| ω | λ | μ | ||||
| AND | B | AND | B | A, B | ||
| λ - coefficient of thermal conductivity (W / (m ° C)); ω - coefficient of mass ratio of moisture in the material (%); ; μ - vapor permeability coefficient (mg / (m h Pa) | ||||||
| A. Polymer | ||||||
| Expanded polystyrene | 150 | 1 | 5 | 0.052 | 0.06 | 0.05 |
| Also | 100 | 2 | 10 | 0.041 | 0.052 | 0.05 |
| Also | 40 | 2 | 10 | 0.041 | 0.05 | 0.05 |
| Extruded polystyrene foam | 25 | 2 | 10 | 0.031 | 0.031 | 0.013 |
| Also | 28 | 2 | 10 | 0.031 | 0.031 | 0.013 |
| Also | 33 | 2 | 10 | 0.031 | 0.031 | 0.013 |
| Also | 35 | 2 | 10 | 0.031 | 0.031 | 0.005 |
| Also | 45 | 2 | 10 | 0.031 | 0.031 | 0.005 |
| Polyfoam PVC1 and PV1 | 125 | 2 | 10 | 0.06 | 0.064 | 0.23 |
| Also | 100 or less | 2 | 10 | 0.05 | 0.052 | 0.23 |
| Polyurethane foam | 80 | 2 | 5 | 0.05 | 0.05 | 0.05 |
| Also | 60 | 2 | 5 | 0.041 | 0.041 | 0.05 |
| Also | 40 | 2 | 5 | 0.04 | 0.04 | 0.05 |
| Perlitoplast concrete | 200 | 2 | 3 | 0.052 | 0.06 | 0.008 |
| Also | 100 | 2 | 3 | 0.041 | 0.05 | 0.008 |
| Thermal insulation products made of foamed synthetic rubber "Aeroflex" | 80 | 5 | 15 | 0.04 | 0.054 | 0.003 |
| Extruded polystyrene foam "Penoplex", type 35 | 35 | 2 | 3 | 0.029 | 0.03 | 0.018 |
| Also. type 45 | 45 | 2 | 3 | 0.031 | 0.032 | 0.015 |
| B. Mineral wool, fiberglass | ||||||
| Mineral wool stitched mats | 125 | 2 | 5 | 0.064 | 0.07 | 0.3 |
| Also | 100 | 2 | 5 | 0.061 | 0.067 | 0.49 |
| Also | 75 | 2 | 5 | 0.058 | 0.064 | 0.49 |
| Mineral wool mats on a synthetic binder | 225 | 2 | 5 | 0.072 | 0.082 | 0.49 |
| Also | 175 | 2 | 5 | 0.066 | 0.076 | 0.49 |
| Also | 125 | 2 | 5 | 0.064 | 0.07 | 0.49 |
| Also | 75 | 2 | 5 | 0.058 | 0.064 | 0.53 |
| Plates soft, semi-rigid and hard mineral wool on synthetic and bitumen binders | 250 | 2 | 5 | 0.082 | 0.085 | 0.41 |
| Also | 225 | 2 | 5 | 0.079 | 0.084 | 0.41 |
| Also | 200 | 2 | 5 | 0.076 | 0.08 | 0.49 |
| Also | 150 | 2 | 5 | 0.068 | 0.073 | 0.49 |
| Also | 125 | 2 | 5 | 0.064 | 0.069 | 0.49 |
| Also | 100 | 2 | 5 | 0.06 | 0.065 | 0.56 |
| Also | 75 | 2 | 5 | 0.056 | 0.063 | 0.6 |
| Mineral wool slabs of increased rigidity based on organophosphate binder | 200 | 1 | 2 | 0.07 | 0.076 | 0.45 |
| Semi-rigid mineral wool slabs on starch binder | 200 | 2 | 5 | 0.076 | 0.08 | 0.38 |
| Also | 125 | 2 | 5 | 0.06 | 0.064 | 0.38 |
| Glass staple fiber slabs with synthetic binder | 45 | 2 | 5 | 0.06 | 0.064 | 0.6 |
| Stitched glass fiber mats and strips | 150 | 2 | 5 | 0.064 | 0.07 | 0.53 |
| Glass staple fiber mats "URSA" | 25 | 2 | 5 | 0.043 | 0.05 | 0.61 |
| Also | 17 | 2 | 5 | 0.046 | 0.053 | 0.66 |
| Also | 15 | 2 | 5 | 0.048 | 0.053 | 0.68 |
| Also | 11 | 2 | 5 | 0.05 | 0.055 | 0.7 |
| Glass staple fiber slabs "URSA" | 85 | 2 | 5 | 0.046 | 0.05 | 0.5 |
| Also | 75 | 2 | 5 | 0.042 | 0.047 | 0.5 |
| Also | 60 | 2 | 5 | 0.04 | 0.045 | 0.51 |
| Also | 45 | 2 | 5 | 0.041 | 0.045 | 0.51 |
| Also | 35 | 2 | 5 | 0.041 | 0.046 | 0.52 |
| Also | 30 | 2 | 5 | 0.042 | 0.046 | 0.52 |
| Also | 20 | 2 | 5 | 0.043 | 0.048 | 0.53 |
| Also | 17 . | 2 | 5 | 0.047 | 0.053 | 0.54 |
| Also | 15 | 2 | 5 | 0.049 | 0.055 | 0.55 |
| B. Slabs of natural organic and inorganic materials | ||||||
| Fiberboard and chipboard | 1000 | 10 | 12 | 0.23 | 0.29 | 0.12 |
| Also | 800 | 10 | 12 | 0.19 | 0.23 | 0.12 |
| Also | 600 | 10 | 12 | 0.13 | 0.16 | 0.13 |
| Also | 400 | 10 | 12 | 0.11 | 0.13 | 0.19 |
| Also | 200 | 10 | 12 | 0.07 | 0.08 | 0.24 |
| Fiberboard slabs and arbolite on Portland cement | 500 | 10 | 15 | 0.15 | 0.19 | 0.11 |
| Also | 450 | 10 | 15 | 0.135 | 0.17 | 0.11 |
| Also | 400 | 10 | 15 | 0.13 | 0.16 | 0.26 |
| Reed slabs | 300 | 10 | 15 | 0.09 | 0.14 | 0.45 |
| Also | 200 | 10 | 15 | 0.07 | 0.09 | 0.49 |
| Peat thermal insulation slabs | 300 | 15 | 20 | 0.07 | 0.08 | 0.19 |
| Also | 200 | 15 | 20 | 0.06 | 0.064 | 0.49 |
| Plaster boards | 1350 | 4 | 6 | 0.5 | 0.56 | 0.098 |
| Also | 1100 | 4 | 6 | 0.35 | 0.41 | 0.11 |
| Plaster cladding sheets (gypsum plasterboard) | 1050 | 4 | 6 | 0.34 | 0.36 | 0.075 |
| Also | 800 | 4 | 6 | 0.19 | 0.21 | 0.075 |
| G. Backfill | ||||||
| Expanded clay gravel | 600 | 2 | 3 | 0.17 | 0.19 | 0.23 |
| Also | 500 | 2 | 3 | 0.15 | 0.165 | 0.23 |
| Also | 450 | 2 | 3 | 0.14 | 0.155 | 0.235 |
| Also | 400 | 2 | 3 | 0.13 | 0.145 | 0.24 |
| Also | 350 | 2 | 3 | 0.125 | 0.14 | 0.245 |
| Also | 300 | 2 | 3 | 0.12 | 0.13 | 0.25 |
| Also | 250 | 2 | 3 | 0.11 | 0.12 | 0.26 |
| E. Wood, products from it and other natural organic materials | ||||||
| Pine and spruce across the grain | 500 | 15 | 20 | 0.14 | 0.18 | 0.06 |
| Pine and spruce along the grain | 500 | 15 | 20 | 0.29 | 0.35 | 0.32 |
| Oak across the grain | 700 | 10 | 15 | 0.18 | 0.23 | 0.05 |
| Oak along the grain | 700 | 10 | 15 | 0.35 | 0.41 | 0.3 |
| Plywood, glued | 600 | 10 | 13 | 0.15 | 0.18 | 0.02 |
| Facing cardboard | 1000 | 5 | 10 | 0.21 | 0.23 | 0.06 |
| Construction multi-layer cardboard | 650 | 6 | 12 | 0.15 | 0.18 | 0.083 |
| E. Roofing, waterproofing, facing materials | ||||||
| - Asbestos-cement | ||||||
| Asbestos-cement flat sheets | 1800 | 2 | 3 | 0.47 | 0.52 | 0.03 |
| Also | 1600 | 2 | 3 | 0.35 | 0.41 | 0.03 |
| - Bituminous | ||||||
| Petroleum bitumens for construction and roofing | 1400 | 0 | 0 | 0.27 | 0.27 | 0.008 |
| Also | 1200 | 0 | 0 | 0.22 | 0.22 | 0.008 |
| Also | 1000 | 0 | 0 | 0.17 | 0.17 | 0.008 |
| Asphalt concrete | 2100 | 0 | 0 | 1.05 | 1.05 | 0.008 |
| Products from expanded perlite on bitumen binder | 400 | 1 | 2 | 0.12 | 0.13 | 0.04 |
| Also | 300 | 1 | 2 | 0.09 | 0.099 | 0.04 |
Note that there are two values \u200b\u200bgiven for materials λ n- for operating modes ANDor B.These modes provide for the peculiarities of the humidity regime - both by the region of construction and by the type of premises.
To begin with, it is necessary to determine the zone according to the map-scheme - wet, normal or dry.
Then, comparing the zone and features of the room, according to the proposed table, determine the mode, ANDor B, in accordance with which and choose the value λ n.
| Room humidity regime | Operating conditions, A or B, by humidity zones (according to the map-scheme) | ||
|---|---|---|---|
| Dry zone | Normal zone | Wet area | |
| Dry | AND | AND | B |
| Normal | AND | B | B |
| Wet or wet | B | B | B |
- λut -thermal conductivity coefficient for the selected type of insulation, according to which the thickness is calculated.
Now, having written out the thickness and coefficient of thermal conductivity for each layer, you can calculate the thickness of the insulation. Please note that the formula requires you to specify the thickness in meters!
To make it easier for the interested reader, a special calculator is included. It provides for the calculation for three layers (excluding insulation). If the number of layers is less, then just leave the extra column blank. The thickness of the layers and the final result are in millimeters.