Before the beginning installation work it is necessary to completely clear the window opening and the space next to it:
- remove everything from the windowsill,
- take down the curtains
- clear the approach to the window by moving the furniture at least 1.5 meters from the window.
Protect the room from dust and dirt by covering the floor and furniture with cloth or thick oilcloth.
For ease of installation, supply 220V power via an extension cord and prepare garbage bags.
Removing the old frame
Once the room is ready for dust and debris to appear, begin dismantling the old window frame.
The sashes are removed from the window. Dismantled window casings. If necessary, the slopes are dismantled (knocked down).
The old one is dismantled window frame, and it is usually seriously damaged. If you want to use old windows, for example in a country house, you should specify the option of preserving the old windows when ordering.
The old sill and the old window sill are dismantled.
PVC window installation
The sashes are removed from the plastic window and the glass unit is removed. The window frame is inserted into the prepared opening and secured with anchor bolts or mounting plates. In this case, it is necessary to strictly ensure that the frame is level, and not along the opening (in houses there are often cases when the horizon line of the window opening is far from ideal; the frame should also be aligned vertically). Otherwise, the window will not function properly.
The gaps between the wall and the frame are foamed with polyurethane foam. Foam performs both an insulating function and is a fastening element. The overall result largely depends on the quality of this installation stage. The foam should be applied evenly and fill all the recesses and cavities of the opening, and the degree of expansion of the foam must be taken into account.
Installing a plastic window in most cases means that along with the new window a new window sill and a new sill will be installed. The exception is the case when the apartment (house, room) is renovation work and the window sill can be installed on your own.
If the mounted window faces the balcony (as in this case), then it is quite appropriate and functional instead of low tide (with outside windows) install a window sill.
If you have a good old sill, you can save it for a new window, but in this case you will need to restore it (restoration) - a paid service, the cost of which differs slightly from the cost of a new sill.
The window sill is cut to fit the opening and attached to the window (to the stand profile). If the opening under the window sill is small, then it foams. Otherwise, masonry or sealing of the opening with mortar is necessary. When installing a window sill board, make sure that it has an inclination from the window within 5 degrees, and that the overhang beyond the inner surface of the wall is no more than 60 mm.
When installing the window sill, you should take into account that its edges extend beyond the finish. internal slope to a depth of at least 15-20 mm.
Advice: when choosing the width (depth) of the window sill, it should be taken into account that the window sill is “recessed” under the window frame by 2 cm, so the width installed window sill will be 2 cm smaller)
All gaps between the window and the opening are filled with foam, and when it dries, they are insulated. The outer layer of insulation is designed to protect the insulation layer (which is a layer of foam) from the penetration of moisture into it, as well as from the damaging effects of the sun.
So, the main part of the work is finished. However, to finish the opening there are not enough slopes (which are both a decorative addition, under which you can hide the mounting foam, and a functional element - increasing the thermal insulation and sound insulation of the window opening). Plastic slopes will give the window a finished look, in addition, it best combination with plastic windows.
Installation of plastic slopes
Plastic slopes are installed on the same day as the window for panel and block houses and on the second day for Stalinist houses.
The slopes are either a Belgian sandwich panel (in the image) or German VEKA plastic slopes with removable trims.
The differences between the various plastic slopes are not significant, but you should know them.
The Belgian sandwich panel can be installed at dawn (not at a right angle to the window), which visually increases the window opening. Choice plastic slopes VEKA is justified for more accurate wallpapering with already installed slopes. Thanks to the removable casing, the edges of the wallpaper will be neatly hidden under it.
Advice: If you are renovating your apartment, then it is better to install platbands on the slopes from a Belgian sandwich panel after gluing the wallpaper yourself - it will turn out neater and prettier).
Installing accessories on windows
At the final stage, a double-glazed window is installed in the window frame and the sashes are hung. Installation of additional accessories, fastening additional elements fittings and components, such as: stepped ventilator, clamp, mosquito net, blinds, etc.
The window is ready. Upon completion of all work, a work acceptance certificate is signed. In it, if necessary, the customer indicates his comments on the work performed, if any.
Almost immediately after all the work is completed, the PVC window can be used. The exception is windows with large opening sashes, which are not recommended to be opened within 24 hours after installing the PVC window.
In terms of functionality, a plastic window is much better than old wooden windows. If you follow simple instructions With its care and use, it will last you forever.
Don't forget to remove the protective film from the outside of the PVC window!
According to GOST 30674 "Window blocks made of PVC profile th":
Removing the protective film from the front surfaces of the profiles should be done after installing the products and finishing the installation opening, taking into account that the duration of exposure to sunlight protective film should not exceed ten days.
If renovation work is still underway in the room where the windows were installed, the protective film may remain on the product until completion. However, on the outside, the film should not be exposed to sunlight for more than 10 days.
The adhesive base of the protective film loses its properties when exposed to heat and UV and can spoil the aesthetic appearance plastic profile.
General installation requirements according to GOST
GOST 30971-2002 “Mounting seams of junctions of window blocks to wall openings. Are common technical specifications» put into effect by order of the State Construction Committee of the Russian Federation on March 1, 2003.
Due to the need for adjustments project documentation For design and construction organizations, the transition period for mastering GOST is set until July 1, 2003. The republics of Azerbaijan, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Moldova and Uzbekistan have joined the Russian standards.
What's new? New standards bring significant formalization of window installation and require numerous documents. Among them, it should be noted the need for each installation company to have “Window Installation Instructions” approved by local authorities authorities, the need to develop window installation units for each facility under construction and coordination of units with the customer, it is recommended to analyze thermal fields, and also provides for the execution of acceptance certificates window openings before installation, performance certificates hidden work and acceptance certificates for completed window installations.
Of particular interest in the standards are the Annexes:
- Appendix A (recommended) contains drawings with examples of window installation;
- Appendix B (recommended) sets out requirements for fastening windows in openings;
- Appendix B (mandatory) represents the actual requirements for the installation of windows as a whole and is essentially the main working document;
- Appendix D (recommended) describes the requirements for the method for calculating thermal fields (isotherm analysis).
In general, Russian installation standards bring us closer to the standards adopted in Europe, and, in particular, in Germany.
GOST requires from window companies a large number of formalities and has more requirements for testing joint designs and materials used for them.
Formalization is justified by the fight against Russian negligence.
Testing of materials and seams is generally justified by the fact that until now in Russia there were no detailed standards for installation at all, there is no accumulated scientific experience to determine the properties of installation materials and the quality of seams. Of course, there is no need for the consumer to know all the provisions of this GOST; this is the responsibility of professionals.
Without delving into the subtleties, we can talk about three basic principles for installing windows, to which you need to pay the closest attention.
Three layers of seam sealing
The content of the main part of the standards is devoted to the rules for filling the installation gap between window blocks and openings according to the principle “the inside is tighter than the outside.” Each installation unit must have three layers of sealing: on the outside - protection from climatic influences, in the middle - insulation, on the inside - vapor barrier. Can be used different materials For outer layers and different mounting foams, but, in one version or another, these three sealing planes must be present.
Outer layer is designed to protect the insulation layer from moisture penetration into it, and must be vapor permeable in order for the insulation to be ventilated through it. That is, the outer layer must be waterproof and vapor permeable.
These requirements are due to the fact that when moisture penetrates into the insulation, its thermal insulation qualities decrease. PSUL (pre-compressed sealing tapes) best meets modern requirements for the outer layer. These are special mounting tapes that are glued to the window frame before installing it in the opening, and then, expanding, they fill all the leaks in the quarter in the opening.
Despite serious advantages: optimal construction physics and technological simplicity, they also have disadvantages. It is convenient to use these tapes in new construction when the opening has good geometry. But when replacing windows in old houses, when the slopes are uneven, and even more so, plastered, their use is difficult. Another drawback is that PSUL cannot be covered with plaster.
To a limited extent, silicone can be used outside. In this case, certain rules must be observed: the thickness of the silicone layer must be half the width of the seam being filled, and the silicone must be glued only on two sides and work in tension, the remaining sides must remain free.
Sealant can be used when insulating the installation seam. Although it is not clearly stated in GOST, there is no ban on its use, no matter how much its supporters want it mounting tapes. An example of using silicone outside and inside a room is shown in node A.14 in GOST 30971-2002. It is unacceptable, of course, as can sometimes be observed on objects, to simply spread silicone on top of the foam - this is an imitation of seam protection, but not the protection itself.
Central layer– thermal insulation. Currently, polyurethane foams are used for its implementation. It is best to use foams designed specifically for window installation. Such foams fill the joint evenly and do not need to be trimmed after hardening. After installation, other foams hang in clumps from the side of the room, and they are cut off, breaking the protective outer crust.
Inner layer– vapor barrier. Its function is to protect the insulation (foam) from the penetration of moisture vapor from the room. For these purposes, when plastering slopes, vapor barrier tapes, mainly butyl based, are used, as well as painted vapor barriers for moisture resistant plasterboards. It is possible to use silicone according to the rules mentioned above.
No cold bridges
An assembly seam is a node where the joining of wall and window structures occurs, which have completely various properties, including in terms of heating engineering. And it is important to make the knots in such a way that there are no cold bridges on the window slopes.
Basically, the problem of cold bridges is a problem of single-layer wall structures that were used in houses of past years (solid brick, expanded clay concrete, etc.). In this case, the weak area is the wall itself around the window frame due to its low heat transfer resistance. An area appears on the slope with a surface temperature below the dew point. In this area, firstly, high heat losses occur, and secondly, condensation occurs on it. If moisture condensation on a slope occurs frequently, then fungus (mold) may subsequently form in these places. The same applies to openings without quarters. In their absence, the danger of cold bridges seriously increases, and here the heating engineering of the junction units should be especially carefully considered.
An important recommendation is that if quarters are missing, use window frames with a width of at least 130 mm. With a narrow window frame, high-quality sealing of the seam is difficult and the likelihood of cold bridges is high. The options given in GOST with false quarters from the corners or from the platband are possible only with external plaster, and still remain problematic from the point of view of heating engineering.
If available in the wall effective insulation (mineral wool or non-combustible polystyrene foam) the window should be either in the plane of the insulation, or behind a quarter of the insulation. In walls where aerated concrete is combined with external cladding and brick quarters, as a rule, cold bridges also do not arise due to the good thermal properties of aerated concrete.
Fastening the window block in the opening
The specificity of plastic windows is that they have significant thermal linear expansion. That is, when windows are heated by the sun's rays, the bars of the frame and sashes increase in size. As calculated thermal expansion values for windows white 1.5 mm should be used per 1 linear meter, for colored windows - 2.5 mm per 1 lm (the difference in thermal expansion is due to the fact that white window profiles heat up significantly less than colored ones).
In accordance with this factor, the window is fastened to the wall. Angles plastic windows must remain free, the outermost fasteners are placed at a distance of 150 mm from internal corners ram. The remaining fasteners are placed around the entire perimeter with a pitch of no more than 70 cm for white profiles, and no more than 60 cm for colored profiles. Near the imposts, the fasteners are also placed at a distance of 150 mm from the corner. The gap between the frame and the wall must be at least 15 mm. This is due both to the thermal expansion of windows and to the fact that a thinner seam is very difficult to fill evenly with foam insulation.
Bearing blocks are placed under the lower corners of the box and under the imposts. The blocks are also placed on the sides as follows: if you look at the window from the inside, then with one turning sash, the blocks are placed on the side opposite the hinges at the top and on the same side as the hinges at the bottom. With two doors, four blocks are installed, respectively.
Schematic diagrams of junctions between window frames and walls
1 – window sill board;
2 – foam insulation;
3 – vapor barrier tape;
4 – flexible anchor plate;
5 – support block for the window sill board;
6 – plaster mortar;
7 – dowel with locking screw;
8 – liner made of antiseptic lumber or leveling layer of plaster mortar (recommended only for bottom node);
9 – waterproofing, vapor-permeable tape;
10 – noise-absorbing gasket;
11 – drain;
12 – insulating self-expanding vapor-permeable tape (PSUL);
13 – sealant thin layer
1 – foam insulation;
2 – insulating self-expanding vapor-permeable tape (PSUL) or vapor-permeable mastic;
3 – frame dowel;
4 – sealant;
5 – vapor barrier tape;
6 – panel for finishing the internal slope;
7 – plaster leveling layer of the internal slope.
Thermal gaps must be taken into account especially carefully when designing large-sized glazing elements: when making bay windows, shop windows, glazing to the entire height of the floor. These are the three main principles when installing modern windows, although, of course, there are many nuances and subtleties that depend on various designs walls and the materials used for sealing the seam. And - as we already said at the beginning of the article - the human factor is very important - responsible and quality work installers.
When can windows be installed?
With the entry into force of Moscow Law No. 42 “On Silence”, disturbing the peace of neighbors is an administrative violation. Carefully read our instructions on carrying out noisy work in order to comply with the requirements in force in Moscow and the Moscow region in various buildings.
How much does it cost to install windows according to GOST?
The cost consists of two components: the cost of work (hours) and materials.
The installation seam will comply with GOST for the installation of windows, when using both expensive and economical materials. The use of one or the other will affect the stages (duration) of the work and the final cost of window installation.
Video instructions for installing plastic windows
Plastic window structures are rapidly ousting their wooden counterparts from the market. If you also decide to replace your old windows with more modern designs, it won’t hurt you to read the instructions for installing new PVC windows yourself. Professional installers charge quite a lot of money for such work. Does it make sense to overpay if you can solve all the problems yourself?
It is assumed that before the installation begins, you have already decided what window size will suit you, what configuration the new systems should have, what fittings you will order, etc. Solve these issues yourself or with the help of a consultant from the company you decide to entrust with the production of plastic windows.
Immediately before starting installation, you need to decide whether you will fasten the windows through the frame or use a method that involves the use of special fastening “ears”.
The first option is more common. However, it may seem inconvenient to you for the reason that before installation begins, you will need to remove swing doors, and remove double-glazed windows from the blind sashes.
The second option is more convenient for self-installation– you don’t have to disassemble anything, therefore, the risk of damage to the structure and violation of its tightness is minimized.
When choosing the second method, find yourself a smart assistant in advance. The assembled window weighs quite a lot, and installing it yourself is incredibly difficult.
Preparatory work
Immediately before starting the installation of PVC windows, you will have to complete a number of important preparatory work.
Preparing the site
When ordering windows, check when they will be delivered to you. Start preparing the site shortly before the windows are delivered.
First step. Move all furniture and appliances away from the window opening.
Second step.
Cover the floor and radiators with protective film or thick cloth. Third step. Organize
workplace
To remove a double-glazed window, carefully pry up the fastening bead using a simple chisel and carefully press the fastener out of the groove with the same chisel. First, remove the vertical fastening beads. Then, in the same order, remove the horizontal fasteners.
To avoid confusion in the future, be sure to label the fasteners. Their size may differ slightly, but even a difference of a fraction of a millimeter will be enough to cause gaps to appear.
Second step.
Tilt the window frame. The glass unit will come out of the mounting grooves on its own. Carefully place the removed glass unit against the wall or other stable surface at an angle.
Third step.
Remove the plugs from the sash canopies and unscrew the fastening bolts. Next, you need to release the top part of the casement window. To do this, turn the knob to “ventilate”. Reach the hook located in the lower canopy.
As a result, you will get a “bare” frame with jumpers.
Fourth step.
Prepare holes for anchors on the inside of the window frame. Place the holes around the perimeter of the product so that there are at least 3 fastening points on each side, and at least two at the bottom and top.
The diameter of the anchors for fixing windows is 0.8-1 cm. To create holes, use a drill of the same diameter.
If the plastic window is fixed using special “ears”, disassembly of the structure can be ignored. In such a situation, all preparation comes down to fixing the fasteners from the kit to the frame using screws.
Video - How to remove glass from a PVC window
Instructions for dismantling the window
First step. Remove or tear out the sashes, depending on the design of the window.
Second step.
File the box and frame at several points.
Third step.
Eighth step.
Collect construction waste in suitable containers and dispose of it in the trash. Take the remains of the dismantled window there.
Ninth step. Align the ends of the opening and clean them of dirt. Prime the surfaces. Tenth step. Relevant only for residents of old
wooden houses
. Lay waterproofing material around the perimeter of the opening. In some situations, it is necessary to additionally install a wooden reinforcing box.
If necessary, the dimensions of the opening can be reduced using a cement screed. At this point, focus on the conditions of your specific situation.
Installing and securing a new window
Proceed with installing the pre-prepared window.
First step. Place special plastic backings or wooden blocks on the lower end of the opening. Select the dimensions of the substrates so that their upper edges are connected into an even horizontal line.
The substrates are laid in the corners and in the center of the opening.
Second step. Install a “bare” or assembled frame onto the substrates, depending on the window installation method you choose. There is no need to dismantle the substrates; they will continue to perform their supporting function. Without supports, the window may simply fall out. The anchors, no matter how often you check and tighten them, will still become loose under the weight of the structure. Therefore, to further strengthen the system, the substrate must be placed not only at the bottom, but also along the side edges, closer to the top of the opening.
Third step. Check horizontal placement window design
using an ordinary water level.
If any deviations are found, remove the pegs or get rid of them.
unnecessary elements
substrates.
Fourth step. Check that the window is installed vertically. Detected deviations are eliminated as in the previous step. Fifth step.
Third step.
Make sure the window is positioned vertically. Immediately correct deviations according to the scheme already familiar to you. If everything is fine, use a hammer drill to drill holes in the central and upper parts of the window frame. Insert and tension the anchors. Information on the required number of fasteners was given earlier.
Fourth step.
Re-check that the window is installed evenly. Get rid of deviations immediately if you find them.
Fifth step.
Tighten the anchors fully. Do not overtighten them, because... the frame may become deformed from excessive tension.
Video - How to install a PVC window
Plate fastening
In this case, special plates will be used to fix the window. They are placed on one or two sides of the window block. The plates are made of thick metal and have the shape of “ears”. Such elements are initially provided with holes for anchors.
With this installation method, you need to bend the mounting plate into a step. The “ear” of the plate should fit as tightly as possible to the wall surface. The second part of the plate is bolted to the frame.
Fastening is carried out with the same anchors. The window is fixed in the same order: first the bottom, then the top and the middle. At each stage of installation, be sure to check the evenness of the structure. Without maintaining vertical and horizontal levels, your window will simply become deformed over time.
Window assembly and final inspection
After securing all the anchors, proceed to reassembling the window if you initially disassembled it. The process is performed in the reverse order of disassembly.
First step. Insert the double-glazed windows into the window frame and secure them with glazing beads, first at the top, then at the bottom, and finally at the sides. A rubber hammer will help you snap the beads into place.
Second step. Reattach and secure the swing doors accordingly. Follow the reverse order of dismantling them. Make sure the valves move normally. In its normal state, the sash does not produce any unauthorized movements when it opens 45 degrees and 90 degrees.
Installing a window sill (Read the article about installing a window sill with your own hands). Wetting with water. Dust removal
Installing a window sill Laying out cement mortar
Window sill installation. Wetting with water. Dust removal
Window sill installation. Alignment. Grout
Window sill installation. Drying
Window sill installation. Finished work
Happy installation!
Until 2003, the installation of PVC windows and balcony blocks was not regulated by the state. Window installation specialists were guided by the technology proposed by the manufacturers of these structures. Whether she was wrong or not is difficult to judge. But the number of complaints about freezing, blowing and leaking frames exceeded permissible limits. In order to eliminate these problems, GOST 3071-2002 was adopted at the beginning of March 2003, and the installation of windows in accordance with GOST became mandatory.
What is installation of a PVC window according to GOST
The introduction of a document regulating the installation of window joints and connections at one time caused a lot of controversy and disagreement. Companies specializing in window installation were unhappy with the upcoming procurement costs additional materials and increased labor costs.
The fact is that state standard approved several standards requiring the use in installation of materials that were not previously used, or were used reluctantly. This entailed an increase in the cost of the work of the performers and, accordingly, the consumer. Which, it was believed, could lead to a decrease in demand for window services.
But the worries were in vain. It was consumers who were the first to appreciate the benefits of GOST. Which is not surprising, since the document is entirely focused on improving the operating conditions of window and balcony units. What are these improvements?
- Installation of plastic windows in accordance with GOST with steam and waterproofing of gaps. The document provided a definition of an assembly seam, indicating the materials required for its construction. Now the correct seam should consist of three layers: outer, waterproofing and vapor-permeable.
- Recommended clearance parameters are indicated.
- Requirements for surface preparation have been determined.
- Acceptance rules have been established.
- The maximum permissible distances between attachment points are indicated. For a plastic profile this is 70 mm.
- A list of actions for testing the quality of structures is given.
- The maximum service life of the materials used is indicated: at least 20 years.
We didn’t ignore this one either important element window design, like low tide. According to GOST, it is now protected from below with diffusion tape made of polyester. This ensures strong fixation of the metal sheet to the wall and frame. The presence of a tape on the lower ebb plane significantly reduces the noise from raindrops.
Application of standards in practice
Since March 2003, installers began to work in accordance with accepted standards. But for a consumer unfamiliar with the intricacies of this work, the question inevitably arises: what does it mean to install a window according to GOST? Knowing the answers will help you track the correctness of the installation and ensure its quality. The first thing you need to know is that all seams of the window unit should now consist of three parts.
- The central one is made of polyurethane foam, which has high frost and moisture resistance.
- External - from waterproofing tape.
- The inner one is made of vapor barrier tape.
The basic principle of installation can be explained as follows: the inner part of the seam must have low thermal conductivity, and the side parts protecting it must have vapor permeability. In this case, if moisture penetrates the polyurethane foam, it will freely escape in the form of steam and will not cause harm to the insulating layer (spray foam).
Advantages of installation
There are several advantages compared to conventional professional installation. But they are all so important that it is unwise to ignore them.
- Subject to compliance with all Gosstandart standards, freezing and leakage of seams is excluded. Consequently, and window frames.
- The possibility of mold and mildew formation is excluded.
- Insulation layer ( polyurethane foam) is protected from moisture and will not collapse prematurely. If installed incorrectly, with no protective tapes, yellowing of the foam can be observed. Under the influence of moisture, its structure becomes loose and destruction processes begin. Such foam loses its thermal insulation properties with all that it entails: the windows begin to freeze, leak, and are no longer a reliable barrier to the wind.
- The ebb is connected to the wall more tightly by the frame, which provides an additional thermal insulation effect and increases the service life of the window unit.
There is another important advantage of complying with the requirements of Gosstandart. If the consumer remains dissatisfied with the quality of installation and orders an independent examination service, the company that installed this window will best case scenario threatened with reinstallation. And the worst thing is considerable expenses.
Materials required when installing windows
Among installers of plastic windows, GOST 3071-2012 is called “tape”. This is due to the fact that, in accordance with the requirements of this document, it is necessary to protect the seams with “ribbons” - narrow-width products: vapor barrier, self-expanding and diffusion.
Materials for installing plastic windows according to GOST:
- PSUL tapes (self-expanding sealing);
- GPL (vapor barrier), made of butyl rubber or aluminum foil, for internal seam protection;
- diffusion polyester for external protection.
PSUL tapes are a self-expanding material and are sold in rolls. During installation, it is extremely important to choose the degree of increase in the volume of the tape. This indicator is always indicated on the packaging. So, for gaps 10 mm wide, you need to choose a tape with an expansion range of 30-40 units. The most popular brands of tapes are Profband, PSUL-EUROBAND, Liplent, Robiband.
Polyethylene tape GPL (water vapor barrier) is made on the basis of foam rubber. On one side there is an adhesive base, in the middle there is a vapor-permeable material, on the other side there is a laminated base and inserts made of metallized material (foil). The purpose of these tapes is to reflect heat back into the room and protect the polyurethane foam from moisture. Popular brands: TYTAN Professional, KLEBEBANDER, “Germetic-Abris”.
Diffusion tapes are laid under the tide to protect the seam from moisture with outside window. These materials are also made from butyl rubber, but they have two adhesive bases: on each side. That's why protective material firmly adheres to both the ebb and the opening. Popular brands: HAUSER, Robiband, Ultima, WS.
Installation technology according to GOST
Installation of plastic windows according to GOST 30971-2012, step-by-step technology which is proposed, can be performed independently.
Step 1: Using a stiff bristle brush or paint brush sweep away dust and debris.
Step 2. The seams between the bricks are leveled with moisture-resistant putty.
Step 3. Cover the putty with a layer of primer.
Step 4. Open window unit and remove the sash.
Step 5. Remove the stand profile from the bottom of the frame.
Step 6. Glue the PSUL at the junction of the frame and the stand profile.
Step 7. If installed balcony block, remove the connecting profile from the outside of the frame. At the junction with the opening, PSUL tape is glued along the entire perimeter. If you install a window, immediately glue the tape around its perimeter.
Step 8. Take a simple pencil and a tape measure. Mark the attachment points on the PVC profile. In accordance with the requirements of the standard, the distance between these points should not exceed 70 cm. The hole should be 150-180 mm from the corner of the frame.
Step 9. Drill holes. The diameter of the drill must be smaller than the diameter of the bolt or self-tapping screw.
Step 10. Support blocks are installed on the opening, which will be located under the frame.
Step 11. Insert the frame and fix it with self-tapping screws.
Step 12. From the street side, mark the places where the PSUL is attached.
Step 13. Remove the frame and, with a shift of 0.5 cm from the markings, glue the PSUL.
Step 14. Install the starting profile for the slopes on the frame.
Step 15. C inside Cover the frame with GPL tape.
Step 16. Install the frame and level it. Drill holes in the wall for dowels and perform final fixation.
Step 17. Install the sashes.
Step 18. Fill the seam with polyurethane foam.
Step 19. After 15-20 minutes, the GPL tape is aligned along the slopes.
Step 20. GPL is installed under the window sill.
Step 21. Install the window sill.
Step 22. A diffusion tape is installed under the low tide.
Step 23. Attach the ebb.
Installing a window according to GOST, the instructions for which are given above, is a simple task. If you comply with all the requirements of Gosstandart, the window openings will be reliably insulated and sealed.
P.S. And for dessert, I suggest watching a video: Window installation according to GOST
Today, PVC windows have become very common, and along with them, those companies that install them have gained wide popularity.
However, installing PVC windows with your own hands does not present any particular difficulties, so you should not be afraid of such work.
Step-by-step instructions for installing windows
The whole process consists of several actions that require a sequence of execution:
- Dismantling old windows.
- Preparatory activities for installing a new window.
- Installation of the stand profile.
- Attaching the mounting hardware to the frame of the new window.
- Creation of special recesses for these fasteners in the wall.
- Direct installation of the window and its alignment.
- PVC fastening.
- Filling all seams with polyurethane foam.
- Window sill installation and leveling.
- Fastening slopes.
- Adjusting window fittings.
- Low tide installation.
It must be said that many of these stages are preparatory, so the whole process can be divided into the following types of work:
- Preliminary measurements of all parameters.
- Preparing to install the opening.
- Do-it-yourself preparation of PVC windows.
- Direct installation.
Return to contents
Measurements and calculations
Before purchasing a product, you should carefully measure its required parameters. In this case, you need to take into account one characteristic of the opening:
- has a quarter;
- does not have a quarter.
A quarter is a special detail of a block, concrete or other structure, which serves to reduce heat loss.
If there is no quarter, then the window is made 5 cm shorter in length and 3 cm shorter in width. This is explained by the fact that in this case it is necessary to leave gaps - 1.5 cm on each side, and 3.5 cm at the bottom for the window sill.
It must also be said that in various documentation (standards) there are 2 cm, not 1.5 cm.
As for the opening that has a quarter, then PVC windows are ordered into it, which are 3 cm wider than the width of the opening itself. But the length in this case should remain the same.
In order for all measurements to be correct and the window to fit in the future, they must be carried out at the narrowest point.
There are subtleties when choosing the size of the ebb and window sill. In most cases, windows are installed by removing them a third deep into the opening, that is, not in the center. However, installing windows yourself allows you to make a choice in this regard. Accordingly, the window sill is chosen based on the result obtained.
You just need to say that both ebb and window sills should be 5 cm larger than what was obtained as a result of the measurements.
As for the width of the window sill, it should overlap the window on each side by 2 cm. When calculating, the minimum margin can be considered 8 cm, but it is better to make 15 cm, so that later these cutouts can be redone if the first attempt is unsuccessful.
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Making a window opening
So, when all the calculations are completed and the dimensions of all components are known, you can begin to prepare the place where the product will be installed.
First you need to start removing the old window. This can be done different ways. If you are dealing with old wooden window, then it’s better to do this:
- First, remove all the glass, for which you need to remove the glazing beads or nails holding them in place.
- Then remove any nails or glazing beads that are holding the frame itself.
- Remove frame.
Why do you need to remove glass? The fact is that old windows were very often simply nailed to the window sill through the frame. During the process of dismantling the fixed window, the glass could simply crack and fall out of its place, which is unsafe. After the old window frame is dismantled, the entire niche must be cleaned of dirt, dust and paint residues.
It should be noted: foam adheres best to fresh wood, so old layer it is necessary to remove it, which can be done with a plane, sandpaper or a grinder with a grinding wheel.
Of course, this should only be done in wooden niches.
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The process of preparing a new window
It must be said right away that some professional workers who have already installed more than a dozen PVC windows with their own hands do this without disassembling them. Concerning independent work, it is better to adhere to the following recommendations.
It is necessary to free the frame from the sashes. To do this, remove the pin, which is located in the upper loop. It can be removed with pliers and a screwdriver by carefully picking it up and pushing it out. After removing the pin, the sash can be easily removed from the bottom hinge. If the window does not have sashes, then it is necessary to remove the glass from it, which can be done by removing all the glazing beads. You can use a knife or spatula for this. It is inserted into the gap between it and the frame and moved to the side with a smooth movement.
It must be said that such procedures need to be performed only in the case of large products. If it is possible not to violate the integrity of the new window, then it is better not to do this.
It is necessary to remove the protective film from the outside of the frame so that there are no difficulties with this later.
Then you need to apply markings, that is, mark the places where the product is attached to the niche, regardless of which method is chosen (we will talk about them a little further). It is recommended to adhere to a step of 0.4 m. Minimum distance there should be at least 15 cm from the attachment point to the corner.
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Installation methods for PVC windows
It must be said right away that the choice of method should not be based on such product parameters as the number of sashes and chambers in a double-glazed window. The installation method should be chosen based on the dimensions of the product and depend only on the material from which the walls are made.
So, PVC installation windows can be done in one of two ways:
- on anchor bolts or dowels;
- using special fastening fittings.
Anchors and dowels secure the frame to the wall. In this case, in the case of both anchor bolts and dowels, holes of appropriate sizes are drilled.
Installation using these fasteners is good when we're talking about about concrete, block or brick walls.
As for fastening fittings, they are usually used in the case of wooden walls. But it should be noted that this is an optional rule.
The bottom line is that the plates are pressed into the profile and installed against the wall. Such plates themselves are attached using ordinary self-tapping screws.
If you want to install plates on brick or concrete walls, then it is best to pre-cut openings of appropriate sizes in them. This will help avoid unnecessary work associated with subsequent leveling of slopes.
Very often, builders use both methods at once when installing windows, which is also acceptable.
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Installation technology
Window installation begins with the prepared frame or the entire window being inserted into the niche. Before this, it is necessary to lay bars or plastic corners. They will help ensure the required minimum clearance.
The frame is aligned vertically and horizontally, as well as relative to the center of the niche. This is easy to do by moving these very corners.
Spacer wedges or angles are best placed under the frame mounting points.
This will give it additional rigidity and thereby protect it from deformation at the time of fastening.
Since the installation of PVC windows may differ in the fastening devices used, the installation technology will also be different. And the differences begin with the next step:
- If the opening is made of wood, then further installation involves screwing a self-tapping screw through a pre-drilled hole in the frame. The self-tapping screw is not screwed in completely, but only so as to slightly “bait” it.
- On concrete or brick walls, marks are placed through the same holes. Then the frame is removed, and holes for anchor bolts or dowels are drilled at the marks. The frame is then installed in its original place and secured with anchors, but not completely.
- In the case when fastening is carried out using anchor plates, they simply need to be bent so that they touch both the opening and the frame in the right place.
After pre-installation you need to check the verticality and horizontality of the installed frame again. This can be done using a conventional construction hydraulic level or a plumb line.
After checking, the frame is completely secured. At the same time, the anchors are not tightened too much. The final tightening time is determined by the moment when the head of the anchor is aligned with the plane of the frame. Some builders even recommend leaving 1 mm.
Then you should attach all dismantled to preparatory stage window parts, i.e. glass or sash. After installation they should be adjusted.
All gaps between the window and the opening are filled with foam. A situation often arises when the window is so smaller than the opening that there is a gap between them that is larger than necessary. If this gap does not exceed 4 cm, then it can be completely filled with polyurethane foam. If the gap is from 4 to 7 cm, then it is recommended to fill it with polystyrene foam, securing it with polyurethane foam.
When the gap is more than 7 cm (except as specified below), it is required to fill it with boards, bricks or other similar materials. Cement mortar will also work.
The ebb is installed on foam. Additionally, it is attached with self-tapping screws to this profile, if it was used, or to wooden blocks.
The ebb tide is installed with an inclination away from the window.
After the foam has dried, you can begin installing the window sill. It starts under the “clover” by 2 cm. It must be said that window sills are not installed strictly horizontally. This is done to prevent moisture from accumulating on their surface. In order to create a slope of the window sill, it is also installed on polyurethane foam.
After all installation steps have been completed, the window should not be touched for another 16-20 hours. This is necessary in order not to violate the integrity of all gaps, that is, not to displace the product relative to its original position.
The popularity of plastic window systems is due to great advantages compared to traditional wooden frames: better sealing and, therefore, heat capacity, no need to restore the sashes every year, ease of use. Even the cost of PVC windows, in view of the advantages, does not seem prohibitive - these are long-term investments. Save on your purchase, perhaps with the help of self-installation, which does not require the purchase of special equipment. But a thorough understanding of the installation process is required - further, how to install plastic windows correctly with your own hands.
Installing a PVC window - step-by-step instructions
Technological openings in apartments and houses are different in size, shape and other characteristics. In order to ideally install a high-quality block of double-glazed windows in the future, a number of measures are required before installation, otherwise there is a risk of being disappointed in your own work. Ideally, the installation of windows is carried out by a company that produces structures. This is the only way to demand replacement or compensation in the event of a defect. If you want to save money, then it is important to consider the question of how to install a plastic window correctly. Let's look at it step by step.
Measurements of window openings
Window openings rarely differ perfectly correct form– deviations in width and height vary significantly. The final result and long-term operation will depend on how correctly the calculations are made.
How to take window measurements correctly:
- Opening width. Determined by the formula: distance between extreme points– 2 thicknesses of the assembly seam. The width must be measured at several points - below, above, in the middle. If the difference is significant, choose the smallest parameter.
- Opening height. Formula: distance between extreme points – 2 seam thicknesses – profile height. Similar to width, height is measured at several points.
Important: for exact result according to measurements, use a plumb line - a string with a weight, and a level - a water or laser level. They will accurately show the curvature of the opening.
- Length and width of low tide. The first can be “copied” from the old one + 0.5 cm on the bend or an allowance can be added to the measured width of the window opening. The width is calculated depending on the distance of the edge of the wall to the mounting plane (depending on the material of construction of the house or apartment, the parameters may vary) + allowance.
- Window sill width most difficult. It is calculated as follows: the distance from the edge of the inner part of the wall to the installation site + the projection beyond the wall by 1/3 of the heating radiator - the thickness of the plastic window frame.
- Last to be executed measuring slopes, then when the installation of the double-glazed window is completed. The width is calculated after installing the plastic window, the length is equal to the height + an allowance of 0.5 cm.
Preparing the opening for installation
You cannot proceed with immediate dismantling of the old frame. Even when the exact delivery time for double-glazed windows is known, there is no certainty that for some reason the structures will not be delayed in transit. Only when the blocks are in the apartment do they begin to manipulate them. Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows should take place in dry, windless weather, with air temperature not lower than –5⁰С. For cold weather, special mounting foam is required.
Stages of preparation for installation of PVC windows:
- The spaces near the windows are cleared of furniture so that work can proceed quickly, without delays or inconvenience in movements.
- Old frames are dismantled. Most likely, they have dried out, and removing the sash from the hinges will not be difficult. You will have to tinker with the window frame - in old houses they were fixed with long and thick nails. To work, you will need a mount.
- It is important to free the opening from old insulation, sealing and sealing - the remnants can affect the installation of a new double-glazed window, interfering with an even and stable position.
- The window sill and the old one are removed cement strainer underneath, acting as a substrate. Window areas are cleared of fine debris construction dust. The trash is taken out in advance and thus the dirty part of the job is completed.
Important: old plastic double glazed windows removed in a different way.
The structure must be disassembled, otherwise pulling it out will damage the walls. First, use a chisel to remove the glazing beads to remove the glass. Next, by turning the sash handle to the ventilation mode, the hook of the lower canopy is released and the sash is removed. In the same way, new double-glazed windows are disassembled before insertion. The work cannot be done alone - double-glazed windows are heavy and difficult to hold. In addition, the fit will be, more precisely, if we work together.
Methods for installing PVC windows
The traditional method of installing PVC double-glazed windows is fastening through the frame with self-tapping screws. These window options are somewhat cheaper, since additional components are purchased independently. The advantage of this method is reliability - you can drill additional holes and accurately adjust the structure.
The second method is considered strengthening the structure of a PVC window with “original” reinforcement– spacer mounting plates. They come with a double glazed window. Minus - wall leveling required before foaming, otherwise the consumption of the composition will increase. Experts do not consider this method reliable, since the structure is fixed only by the counterforce of the spacers and foam. In addition, there are few of them, up to 5 pieces - manufacturers do not take into account the fact that the opening may differ in curvature and other defects.
The choice of mounting foam for PVC windows is described in detail, as well as a comparison of products from different manufacturers.
Depending on the wall construction material - brick, aerated concrete or wood - the installation of PVC windows varies, due to the different density of the raw materials and its physical properties. So, for composite blocks and wood, you need to carry out waterproofing works, and for natural material There is also reinforcement in the form of a box.
Installation of a plastic window in a brick house
Before installing plastic windows with your own hands in brick house, required strengthen the support profile. It is attached to anchors or self-tapping screws.
- Pre-drill holes in the frame and around the perimeter of the opening. According to the rules, the distance between the fastening points is 40 cm. The points are set aside from the impost in both directions.
- When the frame with holes is ready, it is inserted into the opening, having previously placed bars as a technological gap, and the drilling points are already marked on the walls. Next, the structure is removed and the holes are prepared. A sealing tape is glued to the frame itself around the perimeter to increase the heat capacity of the room. If the dimensions are such that the tape interferes with free installation, it is glued after installing the frame.
- All that remains is to reinstall the frame, adjusting it exactly and “attach” the fasteners without screwing them in all the way. If the position is satisfactory, then fixation begins along the perimeter. It is impossible to immediately tightly screw in any self-tapping screw or anchor bolt - this will cause distortion of the entire structure.
- Next, the double-glazed window is assembled - the sashes are hung, and the glazing beads are strengthened. Now the gaps can be filled with foam. Due to the different climates indoors and outdoors, it is recommended to lay the mounting mortar less densely on the street side and efficiently, in two layers, on the inside.
- When the foam polymerizes, install a window sill, placing the edge 2 cm under the clover. The ebb tides are installed on the same day in the same way as the window sill. For this they use aluminum version– most resistant to weather conditions. According to pre-made measurements, the structure is cut out. The area is prepared by sealing it silicone sealant along the edge adjacent to the frame. Then they screw the ebb onto self-tapping screws or special fasteners, placing it under the window.
Important: you cannot skip blowing the foam under low tide. This will protect it from damage due to structural loads, water and melted snow.
- Installing plastic slopes is simple, but the measurements must be accurate - it is better if this work is carried out by a professional. Next, the plates are cut out and fitted to the surfaces concrete slopes, marking fixation points. Polyurethane foam is applied to them, and the part is pressed against the wall, placed behind the frame. After polymerization, all gaps are filled with foam. To internal view The windows pleased the owners; the joints and corners of the window sill and slopes are decorated with plastic corners.
It is not recommended to use the window immediately. To keep the structure strong for a long time, at least 20 hours must pass. How to install plastic windows yourself - the video below will help you.
The difference between installing PVC windows in a wooden and aerated concrete opening
Natural building material is characterized by shrinkage, which affects the change in the window opening and the design of double-glazed windows, up to extrusion of the frame and cracks. Therefore, installing plastic windows in wooden house(video below) is different from the traditional one. To prevent damage from happening, it is recommended to assemble for the window PVC wooden box, which, in turn, is installed as follows:
- The height of the box is 10–12 cm below the opening. If you take into account 1–2 cm of shrinkage per year, then over time it will not have a significant effect on the frame.
- A groove is hollowed out in the opening along the ends of the log or timber and sealed with felt. The bars are installed in the middle, without any fasteners - they must fit tightly and subsequently move together with the wooden frame.
- The box is secured into the opening by screwing self-tapping screws through the boards only into the bars, without touching the ends.
- Next, installing PVC windows with your own hands is carried out similarly to the described installation method in a brick house. The only difference is that the sealing tape is glued to wooden frame, and not to the plastic one.
To install a window in a house made of aerated concrete, you should remember the high hydrophobicity of the porous building material, and in addition to sealing, sealing of the entire opening is also required. And the installation of plastic windows in a house made of aerated concrete is no different from installation in a brick or wooden opening.
Adjusting fittings
In order to operate installed window went smoothly, it should adjust fittings– clamping loops, plates. For example:
- Drafts are stopped by adjusting eccentrics or pressure plates. They are moved clockwise with a key by 2 mm.
- The special position of the trunnions - to the right or to the left - will switch the windows to winter or summer modes - this is stated in the instructions.
- In order for the sealing tape to remain elastic, it must be lubricated with pure glycerin once a year.