How plastic windows are installed. How to install a plastic window

Currently, more and more people give their choice in favor of metal-plastic windows. Such double-glazed windows are equipped with ordinary apartments, and country houses, and chic country mansions. And quite often people install new windows with their own hands. Depending on the chosen method of installation and the skills of the installer, the process of installing one window will take from one and a half hours to half a day. The technology for installing windows is extremely simple and straightforward. It does not require the use of any complex tools. The main thing is to adhere to the installation order and comply with all the requirements dictated by the installation technology.

Necessary measurements before ordering plastic windows

Proper installation of new windows requires an accurate measurement of the window opening. In addition, it is important to know the features of installing windows in openings with a quarter. Such window openings are usually found in foam concrete buildings. They help to significantly reduce heat loss. The main difference is that a window with a length of 50 mm less than the length of the opening is installed in the opening without a quarter. 30 mm must be subtracted from the measured width. Leave gaps of 15 mm along the contour of the opening for foaming. In accordance with the current GOSTs, 20 mm must be left around the perimeter. From below, additionally leave 35 mm under the window sill.

If the installation of PVC windows will be carried out in a window opening with a quarter, measure at the narrowest point. When ordering, add 30 mm to the window width. The length does not need to be changed.

As a rule, the window is not installed in the center of the opening, but at a distance of about 1/3 deep from the outer plane. If the installation of PVC windows is done by hand, then the owner can move the structure in any direction convenient for him. Think over the offset in advance and take this parameter into account when ordering a low tide and a window sill.

To the width of the ebb and window sill determined in accordance with the location of the window, add 50 mm each. When calculating the width of the window sill, additionally take into account such an indicator as the location of the battery.

The window sill should cover the radiator halfway. Add 20 mm to insert the product under the base of the PVC window. The margin in length must be at least 80 mm. But it’s better not to save too much and add 150 mm so that in the future you can cut the window sill beautifully without any problems. Together with the ebb and window sill, you will be offered to order side plastic plugs. You don't need to give up on them.

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Which frame mounting method should I choose?

The installation of PVC windows does not depend on the chamber size of the double-glazed window, nor on the number of internal chambers in the profile. The order of installation of the product can change only taking into account the material of the walls and the size of the window. A suitable fastening and installation method for PVC windows is selected in accordance with the listed parameters. To fix the window structure, you can use:

1. Dowels or anchors that cut into walls through existing or pre-prepared through holes in the profile.
2. toothed plates. They are pressed into profile. They are fastened against the wall and fixed with screws.

Practice shows that the first option is the most reliable. It is most often used when installing heavy and large windows. In the case of through fastening, the window will normally withstand multiple shock loads that inevitably occur when turning and tilting window sashes. In addition, with the help of anchors, the installer gets the opportunity to adjust the horizontal and vertical of the product to be installed as accurately as possible.

Those who install windows with blank double-glazed windows, i.e. without hinged and flaps, more interested in installation using anchor plates. These products are hidden under the slopes, so they will not spoil the appearance. If the walls of the house are made of brick or concrete, then it is recommended to prepare small recesses for the plates. They will eliminate the need to apply a leveling layer before the slope device.

Sometimes both methods are used in combination. Through the lower profile and the side parts of the frame, anchors are deepened into the walls, and plates are used to fix the structure. If the windows are installed in a building made of wood, it is better to refuse the use of plates, because. they loosen after a short time. In this case, galvanized screws are more preferable.

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What you need to know the owner of a wooden house?

The process of installing PVC windows is very dependent on the material of the walls. In the case of brick and foam concrete structures, the differences come down only to the depth of the anchors. With openings from a bar and a log house, everything is a little more complicated.

If the walls of the house are made of wood, you need to remember a number of important rules. Firstly, it is recommended to start installing PVC windows in a wooden house no earlier than a year, and even better 2 years after the completion of the construction of the house. This requirement is dictated by the fact that during this time the material shrinks. Glued laminated timber is characterized by the smallest value and period of shrinkage. Secondly, windows are not installed directly into the opening. The product can only be mounted in a wooden box. It will protect the PVC window from deformation. The block must not have any defects, signs of damage by insects and rot, etc. Before starting any work, the wood must be treated with an antiseptic without fail.

After 1-2 years, shrinkage does not stop completely, but is no longer so strong. After the installation of PVC windows and the completion of finishing work, it will also take place. That is why at the top between the box and the opening you need to leave a gap of 30-70 mm. The size of this gap is selected taking into account the type and moisture content of building materials. After installation is completed, this gap must be filled with jute and closed with platbands.

Building codes do not establish any clear recommendations regarding materials for window sills and sills. As a rule, standard ebbs are used, which come with a PVC window. The window sill can be made of wood or polymer. The lower profile can be supported directly on a wooden window sill, i.e. you can, if desired, install this product before installing the window. Or you can not get rid of the old window sill, if it is normally preserved.

Experienced builders give a very useful recommendation, which is not in the regulatory documents, but it will be useful to anyone who decides to install a PVC window on their own. The wood is permeable. If no action is taken in this regard, these evaporations will gradually degrade the properties of the foam. And to prevent the foam from moistening, a polyethylene foam foil tape should be pasted along the line of its application.

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Preparing the opening and window for installation

Before proceeding with further work, prepare the tools for installing PVC windows. You will need the following:

1. Screwdriver.
2. Foam gun and directly foam.
3. Level.
4. Electric jigsaw.
5. Perforator.
6. A set of hex keys.
7. Pencil.
8. Yardstick.
9. Stationery knife.

After you dismantle the old window, carefully clean the opening of paint and debris. If the walls of your house are made of wood, you will have to additionally cut off the top layer if the new window is mounted in a box that has already served for some time. This pre-treatment provides a stronger adhesion of the foam to the top layer.

Builders recommend using foam to fill the gap only if the gap between the opening and the frame does not exceed 40 mm in size. If the gaps are larger, it is better to partially fill them with foam, drywall and other available materials. For example, in a house made of timber, you can use segments of the same timber.

First you need to remove the sash from the frame. To do this, pull the pin out of the top loop. You can carefully pry it off with a screwdriver or pliers. After that, remove the sash from the bottom hinge. If the window is deaf, you need to remove the double-glazed window from it. First, the longitudinal glazing beads are taken, after them - the transverse ones. Beads are easily removed with a spatula or a wide knife. It is enough to insert an auxiliary tool into the gap and begin to gradually shift it. Be careful not to damage the glass.

If the window is small, you can insert it using mounting plates without having to first remove the double-glazed windows or sashes. If it is possible not to violate the integrity of the factory design, then it is better not to do this. Take a sash or double-glazed window and lean the product against the wall at a slight angle, placing it on a flat horizontal surface, previously covered with thick cardboard or some kind of soft material.

In no case do not lay double-glazed windows and sashes flat. It is also forbidden to put them skewed. Even because of the smallest pebble under the base, a crack may appear in the product. Remove the protective film from the outside of the frame. It is better to do it right away, because. in the future, this process will require much more effort.

Mark the places for installing fasteners. Builders recommend installing fasteners in increments of 40 cm. In accordance with the current state standards, the step should not exceed 70 cm. The standard indents from the impost and corners are 15 cm. If you install a PVC window using plates, attach them to the frame in advance. For this, self-tapping screws are used. Prepare holes for long self-tapping screws or anchor bolts. Use a metal drill for this. Drill from the outside of the frame.

Most instructions indicate that before starting installation, you need to fix it with PSUL protective tape. However, practice shows that it is quite inconvenient to glue it before installation. Therefore, you can do this after the installation is completed, nothing terrible will happen because of this.

Have you decided to replace old wooden windows with plastic ones? Of course, it is better to entrust this matter to professionals, since the installation of plastic windows carries many nuances, if they are not observed, the windows may not retain heat, be not airtight, close poorly and fog up. If you are sure that you will cope with this task, then we will talk about the nuances of installing PVC windows in this article.

The content of the article:

Organizational matters

The advantage of self-installation of plastic windows is that you yourself will do it much more scrupulously than most installation teams, who sin by non-compliance with GOST when installing windows. But again, we repeat that if you have never seen it visually and are not familiar with the process of installing plastic windows, order the installation from specialists.

When is the best time to install uPVC windows?

It is best to replace windows in the warm season, from May to September. Perform installation work in dry weather; in rainy weather, this is highly discouraged. Many are interested in the question: do they install plastic windows in winter? It is possible to install plastic windows in winter, but this is not recommended for a number of reasons. If you bought a new apartment and plan to move into it as soon as possible, or you are making repairs in the apartment you live in, then delaying repairs solely because of the windows is illogical, making repairs now and installing windows in six months is even more illogical, since part of what has been done repairs will go down the drain, and leaving old windows while doing repairs is wrong. Installation of windows in winter is allowed at a temperature not lower than -5 degrees. In addition, installing plastic windows in very hot weather is also not recommended. An important aspect when replacing windows is not only their installation, but also the correct measurement and the right choice.

Measurement of plastic windows

Before you go shopping for a window, you need to measure the window opening, based on these dimensions, place an order or buy a finished window. The advantage of ordering a window is that a window will be made to fit your size, as for buying ready-made windows, they are made according to standard sizes, which do not always fit perfectly into specific window openings.

So, the measurement of the window must be done as follows. To begin with, the window opening is measured from the inside in width, from the bases of the wall, so if you have slopes on the windows, they must be dismantled in order to make an accurate measurement. Then it is necessary to measure the height of the window opening, taking into account the type of window sill. If the house is panel, then in such houses the window sill, as a rule, is part of the slab, so a new window will be installed on it, but if the window sill is removable, then it is necessary to measure from the base of the slab itself. After that, you need to try to measure the depth of the window opening, for this, you may need to beat off part of the plaster or remove the wooden plank from the side parts of the window.

As for measurements from the outside, here we first measure the width and height of the window opening, then again you will need to beat off part of the plaster or cement in order to measure the depth of the opening between the window and the wall with a knife. If possible, also remove the ebb: check if there is a border from the bottom of the window opening or if the surface is solid.

As you understand, the window itself cannot butt-fit into the window opening, since it needs space to narrow and expand, depending on temperature fluctuations. As for the gaps, their minimum size should be as follows:

• For windows up to 1m 20cm - indentation of 15mm;


• For windows up to 2m 20cm - 20mm;


• For windows up to 3m - 25mm.

When measuring, also keep in mind that the window itself should only go into the window opening by a few centimeters, that is, that there should be at least 4 cm from the edges of the double-glazed window and the sash, so that the double-glazed window is not in the wall, and slopes can be made normally. Having received the dimensions of the window and the so-called window edging, we take into account the indicated nuances and obtain the size of the window profile. After that, make an order for the manufacture of a window, or buy a finished one, also order along with this: a handle, a mosquito net (fasteners), a window sill and a low tide.

Dismantling the old window and preparing the opening

When you have purchased a window and the weather is good outside, we start work. Keep in mind that all the work will be very dusty, so either remove all things from the room, or cover them with a film. We begin work with the dismantling of old windows, for this, use a hammer, mount and chisel. First you need to remove the window or the smaller sash, after which the large sash is dismantled. Next, using a hacksaw or electric jigsaw, you need to cut the partition between the wings in half and tear it out of the frame. Then we cut in half a part of the frame from below, after which we make its further dismantling.

When the frame is dismantled, with a hammer and a chisel or with a puncher, we knock down the bumps and make grooves on the sides so that the window sill goes a little into the wall. Immediately before installing the plastic window, you need to carefully clean the window opening from debris and slightly moisten it. After that, we proceed to the preparation of the window profile and its installation.

Installation of plastic windows

Before installing the profile, you need to remove the sashes and pull out the double-glazed windows from the deaf parts of the window. We peel off the protective tapes from the outer part of the profile and put on decorative caps in the drain holes. Using self-tapping screws, we fix the fasteners for the mosquito net.

Many old sources do not mention this, but today the technology for installing plastic windows has changed a little, one more item has been added to it: profile insulation. These actions were included in the process of installing plastic windows due to the fact that for most people, even with proper installation in compliance with all the rules, moisture (condensation) and fungus formed on the windows, as a result of which the profile was frozen. Thanks to this action, all the negative consequences that were observed earlier should not appear.

For a tighter and tighter fit of the profile to the window opening, the perimeter of the profile is pasted over from the outside with a vapor-tight self-expanding sealing tape. Then the side parts of the profile on all sides (closer to the inside of the window) are pasted over with butyl-based vapor barrier tapes. From above, on the side part of the profile, a self-expanding tape seal can be glued, after which, if necessary, a start or expansion profile is attached. After the insulation work, we proceed to the installation of the profile.

What to fix the plastic window on: mounting plates or anchors

There are two options for fixing PVC windows during their installation: on anchors and on plates. It is impossible to say specifically and unequivocally which of these two types of fastening is the best, since each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. In view of the fact that fastening is the most important component of installing a plastic window, and the fact that beginners who want to install plastic windows with their own hands are interested in this issue, we will consider this issue in more detail with your permission.

So, first of all, when choosing the type of fastening of plastic windows, it is necessary to focus on the type of walls. That is, if you have a panel or brick house, then you are not limited in choosing the type of window fastening, but if you want to install plastic windows in a new building or in a country house that are built from foam blocks or gas blocks, then window fastening must be done exclusively on mounting plates.

The biggest disadvantage of fastening windows to anchors is the so-called depressurization of the profile. As you know, there are several cameras inside the profile, which are separated from each other. Thanks to these chambers, the profile “holds” the temperature, since, for example, in winter the coldest chamber is located on the outside of the window, and in each subsequent chamber the temperature is slightly higher. In the outermost chamber, which is located on the inner side, the temperature is several degrees higher in winter than in the first chamber, due to this there is no temperature difference in the profile. In principle, the meaning is clear that due to such a structure and tightness of the chambers, they retain heat in the profile.

When the profile is fastened with anchors, it is drilled through, resulting in depressurization of the chambers. Also, fastening plastic windows to anchors requires more time, precision and skill, so this is not the best fastening option for beginners. If the profile is not fixed correctly, it can lead, and if this happens, the window will be damaged by and large, as this is fraught with gaps both between the double-glazed window and the profile, as well as loose closing of the window sash. The advantage of fixing plastic windows with anchors is that the structure will be more durable, that is, strong winds will not cause the profile to vibrate, and the likelihood that the structure will sag heavily after installation is also reduced.

As for fixing plastic windows on mounting plates, it is much easier, besides, it will save a lot of time and the chambers in the profile will not be depressurized, and this is very important. The disadvantage of mounting windows on mounting plates is the lack of structural strength, that is, the window may tremble slightly, but this will not be significant. However, mounting plates are the easiest way for beginners to fix a plastic window.

Some installers, when installing plastic windows, simultaneously use both of these types of fasteners. What type of window fastening to use is up to you. If you decide to fasten the profile to the mounting plates, then we fasten them to the profile with self-tapping screws, but if it is decided to fasten the profile with anchors - with a drill or a puncher, then first make holes in the profile.

From each corner at a distance of 120-150mm, the first fastener is made, then subsequent fasteners are made in increments of 700mm. There must be at least 3 fasteners on each side.

Profile fixing

Before placing the profile in the window opening, check the planes of all sides of the opening with a level. After that, with the help of wooden blocks made of hardwood or linings made of polymeric materials, we raise the profile and adjust it vertically. Vertical adjustment is made from the upper part of the window opening, that is, from the bottom you need to raise the profile using the named materials. Then align the profile horizontally. Preliminary fixation of the profile in the window opening on the sides and top is carried out using wooden blades. When the profile is leveled on all sides, inspect it - is everything correct, and proceed to fix it.

To fix the profile to the mounting plates, first use one hollow nail. Then once again check the evenness of the profile with a level and after that fix each mounting plate with a second dowel-nail. If you fix the window on the anchor, then through the holes made in advance, using a perforator, make holes in the wall, screw in the anchor, but do not tighten them, firstly, you need to check the evenness of the window with a level, and secondly, you need to tighten the anchor slowly so that do not disturb the profile geometry. When the profile is fixed, we take out the wooden blades from the sides and the top, the lower ones remain - they are the basis of the profile.

Low tide

The next stage of work is the installation of the ebb. We measure the ebb and with the help of scissors for metal we adjust it to the desired size. Then a vapor barrier tape is glued from the bottom of the frame, which will protect the seam between the wall and the bottom of the window, under the ebb. When the tape is glued, we apply a layer of mounting foam on top of it, and another layer on the edge of the plate to ensure sealing and soundproofing of the ebb. The ebb enters the grooves of the profile and is fixed with special self-tapping screws.

Seam sealing

Next, using a special mounting foam for installing windows, we blow out the mounting seam between the wall and the profile: first on the left side, then on the right, then at the top. A feature of this mounting foam is the lack of expansion, which is very convenient for installation - the foam fills the gaps, but does not swell excessively. The surface of the wall can be slightly moistened beforehand. After a few minutes, when the foam dries a little and expands, we glue the second part of the insulation tape on top of it on the wall.

Installation of shutters and double-glazed windows

First, remove the protective tape from the inside of the window. When installing a double-glazed window, use special linings so that it evenly closes the opening. Next, use the slats to fix the double-glazed window, you can hammer the fixing slats into the grooves using a rubberized hammer. After installing the sash and fixing it in the canopies, fix the handle and adjust the sash itself vertically and horizontally. At the very end, a mosquito net is installed.

Windowsill

Then we move on to the final part - the installation of the window sill. We foam the bottom mounting seam well and stick a vapor barrier tape on top of it. The next thing to do is to install wooden blocks on which the window sill will be laid. The pads must be at least 10cm in length. The level of the pads should be such that the window sill is firmly pressed against the bottom of the profile. Another nuance - the window sill should have a slope towards the room of no more than 5 degrees. Please note that the window sill should not cover the battery, otherwise the heat from it will not spread to the window. It is unnecessary to fasten the window sill to the mounting plates, as well as to special clips: the method proposed by us will provide a strong and reliable fastening of the window sill. Check if the window sill is tightly held, then sing it from below, preferably with mounting foam that expands. At the end of this stage of work, place 5-liter bottles of water on the windowsill to fix it.

Video instruction for self-assembly of plastic windows

In order for you to clearly see the process of installing a plastic window, we recommend that you watch the videos below.

This video briefly talks about what you need to pay attention to when installing plastic windows.

The PLASTOK company manufactures windows and installs them to the highest standards in accordance with GOST and with a 5-year guarantee. We offer installation of plastic and aluminum windows as well as glazing of balconies.

Prices for the installation of plastic windows

* Dismantling is carried out free of charge only when ordering and installing windows
** The minimum cost of installation is 2500 rubles.
** The cost of installation for windows of non-standard shape is calculated individually.

To get a durable and high-quality installation, you need to call a measurer who will measure the window opening, not only taking into account your wishes, but also taking into account the characteristics of the building itself and the increase in the opening after dismantling. If you follow all the rules for dismantling and installing a plastic window, you will receive durability, quality, reliability, warmth and comfort in your home.

Video of the installation process

The main stages of installation of plastic windows

PLASTOK performs high-quality installation using modern tools and materials. Assembly teams consist of trained qualified specialists. The company conducts systematic refresher courses for employees.
PLASTOK is quality assurance performed installation work.

Preparing access to the window opening

Checking the dimensions of new pvc windows and preparing them for installation

Before starting the installation, it is mandatory to carry out a control check of the compliance of the window dimensions with the window opening, check the completeness of the order and its compliance with the terms of reference.

The sashes are removed from the hinges and the blind windows are unglazed. Holes are drilled in the frame or anchor plates are fixed in accordance with the requirements approved by GOST, taking into account the type of house and the indicators indicated in the measurement sheet. When determining the location of fasteners, installers are guided by the following requirements:

• distance between fasteners - no more than 700 mm,
• distance from the inner corner of the window frame to the fastener - 150-180 mm (but not less than 2 fasteners on one side),
• the distance from the impost connection to the fastener is 120-180 mm.

Removing old window frames

After knocking down the slopes, the old frames are removed from the window opening. During installation, the workspace is kept clean and large debris is removed.

Before installing the frame in the opening, 3 types of tapes are installed on it, which provide hydro, heat and sound insulation of the room.

1. Tape PSUL- self-expanding pre-compressed sealing tape. The material is a self-adhesive polyurethane foam tape impregnated with a special neoprene composition. It is easily glued and tends to expand, filling all the defects and irregularities of the window opening. The tape not only hides these defects, but also remarkably protects the assembly seam from the effects of weather phenomena. The PSUL tape is glued to the side and upper parts of the frame, taking into account the approach to the quarter.
2. Vapor barrier tape made of aluminum foil reinforced with high-strength synthetic thread, designed for internal vapor barrier of assembly joints.
3. waterproofing tape will reliably protect the external mounting seam from aggressive atmospheric influences. It is made on a polypropylene base with a butyl adhesive strip that adheres firmly to an opening or a slope, and adhesive mounting strips are easily fixed on a window or door profile.

Preparation of the window opening and installation of the frame and sashes

Before installing a new window, a thorough cleaning and preparation of the opening is carried out. After that, with the help of technological wedges, taking into account the gaps on the sides, the frame is set relative to the vertical and horizontal. Plates or dowels are fixed on the sides of the window box. During installation, a control measurement of deviations is mandatory. Window sashes are installed and blind parts are glazed.

When the frame is fixed, the assembly seam between the frame and the wall is sealed with foam sealant.

back

Currently, plastic windows are recognized as one of the most common and sought-after designs. They can be installed both in a city apartment and a private house. You can cope with such work not only with the involvement of specialists, but also on your own.

Today we will analyze in as much detail as possible how to properly install plastic windows, and also consider what are the features of these popular designs.

Peculiarities

It's no secret that standard wooden window frames have long ceased to be the most popular. Today they are much rarer than before. The decrease in their demand is due not only to the exactingness of care, but also to the fact that more practical designs made of high-quality plastic have appeared on the market.

Plastic windows in our time are the most optimal and relevant elements of home improvement.

Such products have many positive qualities. Work on their installation is often carried out by the owners of the dwelling, and not by hired craftsmen. Thus, you can significantly save money, because the services of specialists today are not cheap.

A distinctive feature in carrying out such installation work is that they can be carried out not only in the conditions of an average city apartment.

Owners of "Khrushchev", brick / wooden, panel houses and even luxurious cottages can turn to the installation of plastic windows. This indicates the versatility of such structures. Of course, in this case we are not talking about plastic glazing of balconies, since the rules here are slightly different - you will have to take into account the technical condition of the loggia / balcony in order to be sure of the reliability and durability of the equipped space.

A feature of such installation work is that you first need to carefully prepare for them. In no case should this stage be neglected, otherwise the installed structures will not be sufficiently reliable and durable.

First of all, you will need to conscientiously prepare a window opening for future installation work. If it has an old window, it will need to be correctly and carefully dismantled.

Plastic windows are not uncommon today. They are chosen by many consumers, and it's not just the relative ease of installation of these structures. Let us consider in detail what are the pros and cons of such popular products.

First, let's take a look at the positive features.

• Modern plastic windows are made from high-quality and environmentally friendly raw materials. As a result, structures are obtained that do not cause any harm to health either during the installation work or after it is completed.
• Plastic windows can be selected for absolutely any openings. They are available in different shapes and sizes, which allows you to choose the best option for a variety of buildings / houses.

• In search of the most reliable and durable structures, many consumers stop at metal-plastic products. Such products are good in that they can serve without problems for many decades and do not require replacement / major repairs. Such structures are not affected by precipitation.
• Plastic windows are famous for the fact that they do not require complex and regular maintenance, like, for example, wood products. Such models do not have to be regularly painted / tinted or insulated for the winter season. All that is required of you is to wipe the structures from accumulated dust from time to time.
• One of the most significant advantages of plastic window structures is that they easily fit into many interior styles. In addition, they can be combined with various curtains, curtains, blinds and many other similar items.
• It is quite possible to do the installation of these window structures with your own hands, which is what many owners of apartments and houses do.

But don't be fooled. If you want to install plastic windows in your home with your own hands, then you be sure to familiarize yourself with their shortcomings - perhaps this will affect your final choice.

• As mentioned earlier, it is possible to install windows yourself, but we must not forget that in this case you will not have the right to make a mistake. If you do the work incorrectly, this may result in the window being poorly soundproofed and leaking. In a dwelling with poorly installed plastic windows, it will not be possible to maintain a comfortable microclimate - it will be cold and noisy.
• The disadvantages of such structures include overly reinforced tightness. Despite the fact that modern versions of plastic windows are equipped with ventilation, it is not enough for residential premises. In any case, residents will have to additionally ventilate their living space or buy an air conditioner (and this can cost a tidy sum).

• Please note that after installing PVC windows in your home, a dry climate may form. This will negatively affect many types of indoor plants.
• Before moving on to direct installation work, you will have to take measurements as accurately and correctly as possible, which seems quite difficult to many users.
• Plastic windows have one serious drawback - in conditions of temperature changes, they can expand, which affects their service life.
• If you decide to install such window structures in your home, then you need to consider that their repair and restoration is not always possible.

Micro-ventilation plays an important role in plastic window structures. If the room does not have a comfortable and optimal microclimate, then this can lead to the fact that condensation begins to accumulate on the windows. To avoid the problem of fogging window structures, you need to choose options that provide micro-ventilation. This system works on the principle of forced ventilation. It is actuated by the movement of the handle - it is put in a specific position.

If you plan to install PVC windows in your house / apartment with your own hands, then you will have to take into account many features and nuances. It is very important to adhere to the requirements of GOST 23116-99 and 30971092.

Violation of these simple rules can lead to the fact that the result of the work carried out will simply disappoint you and you will have to do “work on the mistakes”.

Design

Many experts argue that the direct installation of plastic windows should be started only after a detailed acquaintance with their structure / design. Thus, it will be much easier for you to carry out such work.

The plastic window is assembled from the following important elements.

• Frame. Everything is simple here: the frame is the basis of the design.

• If the window is assembled from a certain number of components, then the frame is divided using elements such as impost is a vertical piece. If the window contains 2 parts, then there is only one impost in the structure, and if there are 3 parts, then there should be 2 imposts.
• The window element that opens is called the sash.. The fixed part is the capercaillie. In these components, double-glazed windows are fixed. These elements are glass fastened to each other (there may be 2, 3 or more). Between the glasses in this design there is a foil ribbon, which is responsible for tightness. Double-glazed windows are special: with reinforcement, energy-efficient or tinted glass. There are also similar products in which an inert gas is pumped between the glasses, which reduces heat loss.

• Double-glazed windows are attached to the frame base with the help of special staples which are plastic strips. As for the necessary tightness of the joints, one cannot do without a reliable rubber seal (as a rule, it is black).
• Also fixed on the sashes lock fittings, which is a set of special mechanisms responsible for opening and closing the valves. They are different because they carry different functional loads. These include: direct opening with ventilation, opening with ventilation and micro-ventilation.
• To ensure that all structural elements are properly sealed, rubber seals are used.

There are drainage holes on the bottom outside of the frame. They are usually closed with special caps. Through these components, condensate penetrates the street, which is formed in the inner part due to the temperature difference between indoors and outdoors.

measurements

Knowing what the plastic window structure consists of, you can proceed to its installation. The first step in carrying out such work will be measurements.

Before you go shopping for a plastic window, you should correctly measure the window opening into which you will install the structure. The scheme is simple. In this case, it is necessary to consider whether it is with a quarter or not.

Bases with a quarter, as a rule, are present in buildings made of such material as foam block. Such components significantly reduce heat loss from the living space. In an opening without a quarter, you should order windows with a length less than 5 cm than the same opening parameter. In this case, 3 cm must be subtracted from the width parameter. Gaps along the contour of 1.5 cm are useful for applying foam, and an additional 3.5 cm for setting a window sill. In accordance with GOSTs, it is recommended to leave 2 cm around the perimeter.

To organize a window opening with a quarter, all measurements should be taken to the narrowest section. Windows are usually ordered by adding about 3 cm to the width parameter. The length is not adjusted.

Most often, windows are fixed not in the center of the opening. They are placed, indenting from the outer part by 1/3 in depth. If you are going to install a PVC window on your own, you can make an offset in the direction you want. This circumstance must be taken into account when ordering window sills and external ebbs. To the width parameters of both components, calculated in accordance with the direct location of the window, 5 cm are usually added.

The calculation of the window sill width indicator is also influenced by such a parameter as the position of the battery. Please note that the window sill should “hide” the radiator by no more than half. You also need to add about 2 cm to take the window under the base. The most modest margin in the length parameter may be 8 cm, however experts recommend not to skimp and add 15 cm to cut this detail as neatly and aesthetically as possible.

• It is better to make measurements for all similar openings in the apartment / house. The width of these components can vary significantly, but the height parameter for all openings should be similar (of all, choose the smallest size).
• As mentioned earlier, the window is usually not installed directly in the middle of the opening. PVC structures are recommended to be fixed at 2/3 of the wall width from the inside. However, in the event that you are going to sheathe the outside of the building with heat-insulating material, then it is permissible to put the window a little further. The remaining gap will contain the mounting plane (the outer plane of the window).
• It is worth starting to measure the slopes only after the installation work is completed, since it is rather problematic to calculate the width of these parts in advance. The length of the slopes in this case will be equal to the height of the opening itself. Consider a small margin for cutting.

When ordering a window, you will definitely need to specify in what quantity and what specific parts should be in the product. We must not forget about indicating the presence / absence of a capercaillie. You will also need to decide how the window will open and close. When ordering, you will also need to specify the desired type of fittings / accessories.

If you are going to purchase and install a PVC window for a balcony, then the measurements will have to be done a little differently.

• Width windows should be calculated as a parameter of the length of the parapet, on which it will be based. Subtract 60-70 cm from all sides to fix the special corner profile. Behind it, the elements of the front and sides will be connected.
• Height should be defined as the step from the parapet to the roof of the balcony structure, minus the 25-30 cm required for clearances.

Windows located on the side, in a balcony setting, must be calculated in the same way, but only in width, in this case, 60-70 cm must be subtracted for the corner profile. For joints between the window and the wall covering, 25-30 cm will be required.

If you are taking measurements in a private house or an old building, then experts recommend knocking down pieces of slopes on each side at the measurement sites.

This action is required, since in many cases the dimensions of the window opening significantly exceed the dimensions of the window itself, and the remaining space is closed with cement or an insulating layer, which often simply fall out when the previous structure is removed.

Training

As mentioned earlier, before starting the installation of plastic windows, it is very important to correctly carry out the preparatory work. Do not forget that only those PVC structures that were produced on special industrial equipment and fully comply with all measurements made are allowed to be installed.

In the course of preparations it is required to take into account that the width (as well as the height) of the opening itself should be 2-5 cm larger than the window. This is necessary so that it is possible to form the required three-layer assembly seam.

The easiest way to install PVC windows is in new buildings, since there is no need to carry out the most complex preparatory work - to dismantle old window structures. However, if the latter are present in the dwelling, then they must be removed.

Old windows are usually removed, starting with the dismantling of the sashes. Usually at this stage, the craftsmen do not have any problems (of course, if the frame has not completely rotted).

If there is a completely rotten frame, then for a start it is better to remove the glass so that they do not accidentally fall out when dismantling the wings.

As for the frame base itself, it is permissible to remove it using various methods. Many of them are very gentle, but require more effort and time. At the same time, the frames are not damaged in any way and remain intact (they can even be used in the future). As a rule, the old frame structure is cut using a circular saw, and then it is seamlessly removed in parts. It is also necessary to remove any old seals and insulation materials.

Before dismantling the old window, you should cover the furniture and appliances in the room with plastic wrap, since during such work there is always quite a lot of dust. If there is a carpet or carpet in the room, then it is better to move them to another room. You can do the same with furniture, but most owners prefer to just cover it.

It is very important to scrupulously clean the window opening from any debris and dust. Do not leave the old sealant. If there are recesses or cracks on the walls of the opening, the diameter of which exceeds the mark of 2 mm, then in accordance with GOST they must be repaired with high-quality plaster or putty. Many home craftsmen neglect this process because it takes a lot of time, because it takes 5-8 days on average to dry the same plaster mix. Throughout this time, the opening will remain open.

However, you can turn to special quick-drying mixtures (gypsum or polymer). Such compositions will significantly reduce the waiting time for drying. If you use such solutions, then you will have to wait for them to fix only a few hours, not days.

Dismantling of the old structure

As mentioned above, for the installation of a plastic window, it is necessary to prepare a window opening with high quality and one of the stages of work is the dismantling of the old window.

Let's take a closer look at how to do this.

• The first step is to remove the sashes of the old window from the hinges. If the design contains closed (deaf) elements, then you must first remove the glazing beads and only then remove the glass.
• The next step is to remove the window sill. It must be removed so that the bottom of the window opening is not damaged. The method of removing the window sill largely depends on the material from which it is made. For example, a concrete part should be dismantled using a hammer: the middle is broken, then the reinforcement is cut and the remnants of the window sill are removed from the sidewalls of the opening. If these elements are made of wood, plastic, metal or marble, then they should be removed entirely. These elements are removed using a hammer or perforator, as well as a chisel.
• It is also necessary to remove the ebbs. To do this, it is first important to figure out how they were fixed and what they were screwed to - to the window sill profile or to the frame.

• Having removed the window sill and the ebb, you need to remove the window itself from the opening. It is most convenient to use a tool such as a mounting cutter. Many professional installers turn to this device, because with it the work is faster and easier. Of course, you can also use a simple wood saw or a jigsaw.
• Having removed the frame from the window opening, it is necessary to dismantle the slopes. Parts that have been finished with a sand-cement mortar cannot be dismantled. As for slopes made of plasterboard or plastic, they can be removed using a screwdriver.
• After carrying out all the above work, it remains only to remove the old insulating material from the installation opening.

Remember - the opening must necessarily retain its original integrity. If you nevertheless damaged this base, then you will have to immediately get rid of the resulting defects, otherwise in the future they may cause drafts penetrating into the living room, wear of fittings and a violation of the tightness of the structure.

How to install yourself: a step-by-step description

If you have prepared the frame for the installation of a new PVC window, having correctly removed the old one, then you can proceed directly to the installation of the purchased plastic structure. In this situation, you must strictly adhere to the instructions, as well as during dismantling.

Currently, there are two main methods for installing plastic windows:

• with disassembly (unpacking) of the window;
• without disassembly.

If you chose the unpacking option, then you need to drill holes in the frame through which anchors will be screwed into the walls. This method is quite complicated, but the fastenings in this case will be more reliable.

If you decide to install a plastic window without unpacking, then you will need to attach metal plates to the frame from the outside. Then they will need to be attached to the walls. Of course, these actions will take much less effort and time, but such a mount is considered not the most reliable nym, because in the case of significant wind loads, the frame can be seriously skewed. It can also sag. If you do not want to disassemble the window, then you can turn to fixing it on the plate, but use not narrow and thin, but dense and wide elements that are very often used during the installation of truss systems.

Compact PVC windows installed on special mounting plates, in the absence of serious wind loads, will stand for many years and will not cause any trouble. But in the event that you live in a region where powerful and gusty winds take place, or your apartment is located on a high floor, it is better to turn to the unpacking method. Each of these methods of installing plastic windows should be considered in more detail.

First, let's look at how the installation with unpacking is carried out.

With unboxing

In this case, you must first carry out all the necessary measurements. Measure the window frame and opening. Be sure to make sure that these components fit together. Then you can proceed with the installation work.

Consider the process of disassembling the window.

• First you need to remove the sash. To do this, close the window by turning the knob down. Then the plastic lining is removed, which are present on two loops. They should be pry off with a screwdriver.
• On the top of the loop you can see the pin. He is responsible for the mobile connection. It is located in the center and slightly protrudes. You need to press on it until it deepens (for this, many use a metal plate, which they rest against the pin, and then lightly knock on it). The pin will pop out at the bottom. After that, it should be grabbed with side cutters or pliers. Pull down and remove these parts.
• Supporting the sash from above, open the lock. To do this, the handle must be placed horizontally. Tilt the top towards you and lift the sash slightly by removing it from the pin at the bottom.

Thus, you remove the sash. Then you need to remove the double-glazed window on the capercaillie. These elements are held by glazing beads. They should be removed, after which the double-glazed window will be removed without any difficulty.

Beads must be removed according to the following scheme.

• Insert something narrow and strong enough into the gap between the bead and the frame. If you do not have special tools in stock, it is recommended to take a small spatula for this. Disassembly should begin, starting with one of the long sides.
• The corner section of the spatula should penetrate into the joint and gently move the bead away from the frame structure.
• Without taking out the tool, you need to quietly move along, again moving the glazing bead to the side.
• Thus, you need to move along the entire length. As a result, the glazing bead will be practically separated and easily removed.
• As for the short sides, everything is simpler here: you need to pry off the free edge and, turning the spatula, remove it from its groove. You need to take hold of the freed edge and pull it up.

After that, you can proceed to the removal of the double-glazed window. Be as careful as possible, because it has a considerable weight. If nothing works out for you, then you should remove another glazing bead. But it is important to ensure that the window is in an inclined position so that the double-glazed window does not fall out. Further, if necessary, it will be possible to replace the double-glazed window with your own hands.

The cleaned frame around the outer perimeter must be pasted over with self-adhesive tape. Its installation is recommended by GOST. With such a component, the window will not dry out much.

Remove the film with the manufacturer's logo from the structure. If it is not removed, it can melt and “stick” to the frame under the influence of aggressive sunlight, and then it will be very difficult to remove it. The frame must be inserted into the cleared opening. To expose it, you will need to turn to special mounting wedges. They are always fixed in the corners and under the impost. Other elements are set as needed. When laying, it is important to set the window exclusively in accordance with the level in 3 planes. First fix the location of the window leaf. That's what mounting plates come in handy for.

Next, take a drill and a drill that match in size with the diameter of the anchor fasteners. You need to make holes for the fasteners. About 150-180 mm should be retreated from the edge from above. This is where the first hole will be. The bottom hole should be located at a similar distance from the bottom corner. Between them, in a regular window, 1 more anchor must be fixed: the largest gap between two fasteners should not be more than 700 mm.

Having made a hole, you need to make sure that the frame has not moved from its place. This will require a level. Next, nail the anchor and tighten it well. But keep in mind that it is important not to overdo it here: profile, in no case should bend too much. This operation should be repeated as many times as necessary.

After that, proceed to the installation of ebbs.

Without unpacking

The main subtleties of the installation work are described above. With this method, installation begins with fixing the fastener plates. They come in 2 varieties: U-like and linear. It is necessary to choose the most reliable and dense options.. They must be fixed at the same distance as the anchor fasteners - 50-200 mm from the edge and no more than 700 mm between the parts in the middle. They must be screwed with self-tapping screws to the profile.

In the future, work is underway to install windows with your own hands using mounting plates in the same way as with the method described above, starting from the stage of placing a PVC window in the opening using a level. But it is no longer necessary to attach the frame itself, but the plates and not with the help of anchors, but dowels-nails. You need to drill a hole, bend the plate, fix the dowel, and then put the plate in place and screw the dowel. The next steps are the same.

Drainage

Another important component of the new plastic window is recognized as low tide. It needs to be placed outside. To this end, according to the technology, first, high-quality vapor-permeable waterproofing is glued to the outer half of the frame (it is advisable to use self-adhesive materials). On the side planes of the window opening, small strobes must be made, into which the edges of the drainage systems are subsequently installed.

On the plane of the opening from the outside, where the ebb will rest on the wall, you need to apply a layer of mounting foam. In some cases, when the height difference is too impressive, a special lining profile is fixed in this place. Subsequently, the ebb will be attached to it. The ebb cut according to the necessary parameters is brought under the protruding section of the frame, after which it is attached to it with the help of self-tapping screws. Along the bottom edge, the ebb also needs to be filled with foam.

After that, it is necessary to foam the window opening itself.

If you install PVC windows in the summer, the gap between the frame and the opening must be sprayed with water using a spray bottle. Carrying out this stage is required in order to improve the polymerization of the foam.

A vapor barrier waterproofing tape, which is also recommended by GOST, must be glued along the contour of the frame structure. Next, you need to take a can of foam and fill the remaining gaps by 2/3 of the volume.

In the case when the gaps are too large (more than 2-3 cm), the foam should be laid in several stages. Between 2 layers you need to wait a little time - about 10-15 minutes. When the initial layer is slightly fixed, it must also be sprayed with water, and then proceed to apply the second. Repeat these steps until the volume is filled by 2/3.

Do not expect absolute polymerization. Glue the free edge of the heat-insulating strip to the window opening. But you need to pay attention to the fact that using the tape, light plastic slopes should be installed. This is due to the fact that neither plaster nor any other solution will fall on such thermal insulation.

After carrying out the work related to the installation of the ebb, it remains only to proceed to the assembly of the window and the finishing of the necessary elements.

Window Assembly

If you have done all the work described above, then you can proceed to the direct assembly of a new plastic window.

Start carrying out these works by cleaning the glass and gum in the frame from dust and any other contaminants. If necessary, use a regular blade to remove traces of black sealant remaining on the glass.

It should be noted that on the frame in the part where the double-glazed window itself is fixed, there are special fold inserts on the inside of the profiles. Leveling plates are placed on top of them, playing the role of a kind of spacers for the package. Inserts on the side profile and impost must be moved to the center.

On the liners from below, you need to lay plates with the same thickness. Please note that they must be laid in such a way that they are located at an angle, and not along the tab. Simply put, one corner of the plate should rest against the rubber, and the diagonally located one closed the groove intended for the glazing bead. This stage is required, because not in all cases the width of the straightening plates is suitable for the density parameter of the double-glazed window. Often it has more modest parameters.

If this plate is installed along the profile, one glass located at the edge will simply remain without support. In the process of fixing the glazing bead, this glass will press its side surface against the same plate and crack due to the formed strong load. In order not to face such an unpleasant situation, the plates are laid at an angle with respect to the frame structure.

Next, you need to put a double-glazed window on the plates and press it against the outer rubber bands. In this case, you need to raise the double-glazed window in the lower part (for this it is permissible to use a spatula - it will be more convenient) and correct the plates: push the prominent corner sections under the package, but not to a great depth, but so that they act as a support for all three glasses. These parts should not protrude strongly and prevent the fixation of the glazing beads.

Next, be sure to check whether the double-glazed window is equally included in the side sections for the rubber bands. If required, corrective work should be carried out using a spatula. With this tool, you need to move the package to the right or left. After adjusting the position of the double-glazed window, glazing beads are placed at the top and bottom.

If your toolkit does not have such a useful device as a mallet (plastic or rubber), then the glazing beads can be hammered with a hammer handle. You need to do this, starting from the ends and moving towards the middle.

Before proceeding to the installation of glazing beads on the side, it is required to open the double-glazed window with plates on the side sections. To this end, we have previously moved the side seam inserts on the frame and impost closer to the center. Now it remains only to put straightening plates on them, again using a spatula.

Please note: the plates must be placed in the same way as the lower parts. This is necessary to ensure that all three glasses in the package are securely supported.

First, the side glazing beads should be inserted with their tips into the groove, starting from the final parts. After that, they are scored, as in the previous stages: starting from the ends, moving towards the center.

The next step is to install the sash. Before this, it is recommended to install special caps on the hinges. They are quite difficult to install if the sash is already present on the frame. In this situation, a special cover is meant, which is called a "snail". It is fixed on the corner hinge on top of the sash, as well as on the frame hinge at the bottom.

On the sash, you need to fix the handle horizontally. To do this, it is necessary to turn the lifting microlift vertically down. Otherwise, the handle will be blocked.

Experts advise checking that the handle is installed correctly: horizontal fitting trunnions should be located in a central position (not above or below, but only in the middle - between 2 adjacent risks). After that, you can proceed to install the sash directly on the frame structure. It is put on the loop from below, and then the corner section of the sash is launched into the loop from above and secured with a pin, pushing it up until the latch is released.

In order for the pin to enter the hinge hole as easily as possible and not get stuck, the sash should be pressed (you can press it slightly) against the frame. In this arrangement, the longitudinal cut of the pin will coincide with the protrusion inside the hinge hole.

When assembling a PVC window, you need to be very careful and careful. Also, one should not forget about checking the correct course of the swing sash of the structure. The level of fixation of the structure should also be checked. For example, in the opening position at 45 degrees and 90 degrees, the sash should not stagger or swing open by itself. When you have carried out all the required checks, the sashes will be able to close securely and move on to the next step - sealing the gaps.

Gap sealing

In order to cover the remaining gap between the window and the wall covering, high-quality polyurethane-based foam is most often used. This material is chosen by many consumers, as it is time-tested. Polyurethane sealant can provide excellent sealing and thermal insulation of the joint. However, not everyone knows that over time and during “meetings” with the external environment, the foam loses its positive properties, which is why it begins to collapse.

To guarantee her protection, you need to take care of installing a high-quality hydro-barrier on 2 sides that surround the seam. This process is neglected by many unscrupulous installers. Moreover, few people fix the slopes at the right time in order to somehow protect the foam. As a result, for many owners of apartments and private buildings, windows may begin to freeze or fog up.

In order not to encounter such problems, a vapor barrier film is glued on the inside of such a window. You need to glue it around the perimeter, but you should leave the bottom untouched.

Concerning outside, then here also around the perimeter you will need to stick a membrane moisture-resistant strip. This material will be responsible for protecting the mounting foam from precipitation, and will also help remove moisture from the inside of the insulation.

As for the lower inner edge of the window structure, here you need to glue a strip of waterproofing with a foil surface. She will hide under the windowsill. Fold the strips in the distance left between the wall and the window, and then moisten all the bases with water. Next, you should foam the gap. It is recommended to give preference to a special all-weather mounting foam. It will be convenient to apply it using a gun designed for such compositions.

When you fill the gap, the foam will again need to be moistened a little using a spray bottle. Next, glue the insulating tape to the wall around the perimeter of the window (both outside and inside).

Window sill installation

Installation of window blocks does not end with the installation of ebbs and overlapping seams. Another important component of such structures is the window sill, the installation of which should also not be forgotten.

The window sill must be cut at the edges so that it fits perfectly and clearly into the opening, goes under the frame and “stuck” into the lining profile. At the extreme remote sections of the opening, the window sill should be on the wall ceilings (by 50-100 mm). Using pegs, you should set the installation mark for this part with a slight bevel inside the room. Further the space under the window sill must be sealed with mounting foam or filled with mortar. Using self-tapping screws 4x75 mm, the window sill should be attached to the frame. Fasteners must be screwed in from the inside in the extreme sections and in the center.

Many owners of wooden dwellings are wondering if it is possible to put plastic windows in them. Yes, in such conditions, the installation of such structures is possible, however some nuances should be taken into account.

• It is permissible to proceed to these installation works only 1-2 years after the completion of construction. At this time, there is a period of shrinkage of the building.
• Installation of plastic windows in these conditions is not carried out in the opening. Window structures can only be placed in a wooden box, which is designed to protect them from deformation.
• It is important to ensure that even the slightest trace of rot or destruction is not present on the window block. Before proceeding to the installation steps, it is required to treat the tree with antiseptic agents.
• Having completed the installation of a plastic window in a wooden dwelling, the gap is most often filled with a jute insulating layer, and then closed with a casing on 2 sides.

Casing (or pigtail) is an important part when installing plastic windows in suburban dwellings. Most often, casing is addressed in the conditions of wooden and timber constructions. These elements are a box that is placed in window and doorways. They are responsible for preserving window structures from deformations and the appearance of cracks.

If you are designing pigtails yourself, then you will need:

• first prepare the opening;
• make thorn-groove cuts;
• to treat surfaces with an antiseptic;
• install seals;
• put the side and top elements of the casing;
• lay insulation;
• at the end, put and fix the window itself.

Do not rush to remove the branded film from the window structure immediately after purchase. It is advisable to do this when the repair work is completed. You should also not leave the film on the frames, since over time their removal can become a big problem.

If you take out a double-glazed window, you need to be as careful as possible. This is due to the fact that inaccurate manipulations with glazing beads often end in scratches and chips that appear on the glass.

Repair of plastic windows can be done by hand. Most often, the owners are faced with the problem of adjusting the valves. In addition, you can change the window handle or sealing materials yourself. It is also possible to replace the double-glazed window yourself, however, it is permissible to proceed to it only if you are confident in your abilities. Otherwise, you should contact the experts.

Usually, special side plugs come with window sills and ebbs. Their installation should not be abandoned.

If you are installing anchor plates in a concrete or brick opening, then it is better for you to prepare small recesses for them. They will be needed so that you do not have to lay an extra leveling layer before fixing the slopes in the interior of the room.

In order to shift the dew point, it is recommended to do foaming with different density levels.. The foam layer facing outward should not be made too thick, especially when compared with the inner layer. Along the perimeter, it is permissible to lay the foam evenly, without leaving gaps or voids.

Please note that the gaps between the wall slab and the window frame should be filled with mounting foam if they do not exceed the 4 cm mark. If the gaps are too large, it is recommended to partially close them with cheap materials such as drywall, foam or brick.

If you decide to install PVC windows in a frame structure, then you need to consider that you can proceed to these works after:

• erection of a frame;
• wall laying and insulation;
• roof laying;
• providing vapor barrier and wind protection.

Internal vapor barrier and external insulation must be installed with a small margin in the openings. If you are going to install PVC windows in a frame house without floors, then you cannot do without the use of scaffolding. With these designs, installation work will be easier and faster.

Before you go shopping for high-quality plastic windows, you need to consider that the profiles of these structures are divided into classes:

• economy- have very thin partitions, which soon begin to freeze, especially in cold autumn or winter;
• standard- is considered the best profile for plastic windows, is optimal in terms of price-quality ratio;
• premium- the most expensive profile, which has various options, many of which are not particularly needed.

To make sure that the PVC profile is environmentally friendly, you need to request a quality certificate for the purchased products. These documents usually contain all the necessary information. The composition of window structures should not contain aggressive chemicals that can harm human health.

If you want your home to always be warm, you should order windows with energy-saving double-glazed windows. Of course, they are more expensive than simple options, but the money spent on them will pay off soon due to the overall reduction in energy costs.