How to make the slopes correctly after installing the doors. Finishing options for external and internal slopes of the entrance door

After installing a new front door, it remains to update them with brand new slopes. They can be incorporated into the interior design in different ways; drywall, laminate, MDF, PVC sandwich panels, as well as non-standard materials (for example, imitation of natural stone) are suitable for decoration. In order not to spend money on the services of a specialist, the installation of slopes can be done by hand, following the instructions.

Plastering of slopes

Slopes are most often plastered together with the entire apartment when the finish is not completed.

Required tools:

• Putty knife.
• Level.
• Master OK.
• Rule.
• Painting grid.
• Painting tape.
• Painting corners.
• The mixer is construction.

Materials:

• Plaster (dry mix).
• Finishing putty.
• Liquid primer.
• Sandpaper.
• Water-based paint.

Diy plastering sequence:

• Clean the surface.

• Prime.
• Install and fix the beacons using a level.
• Close the junction of the wall and the slope along the level with a painting corner.
• Cover the front door and box with masking tape

• Secure the masking net.
• Make a solution.
• Repair potholes.
• Apply the solution to the entire surface, pull it out along the beacons, then wait until it dries and repair the cracks.
• Prime.
• Smooth with a finishing filler.
• Wait until dry and process with fine sandpaper.
• Paint with water emulsion.

Finishing completed.

If we are talking about a private house, it is advisable to treat the cleaned opening with an antifungal primer before work and add a little to the solution itself.

Plasterboard slopes

Drywall is a popular material for decorating front door slopes with your own hands. It is inexpensive, reliable and easy to install.

Necessary materials:

• Drywall.
• Dowel.
• Self-tapping screws.
• Profile guides.
• Glue.

Required tools:

• Drill.
• Roulette.
• A simple pencil.
• Rag.
• Level.
• Putty knife.
• The mixer is construction.
• Hammer.

The procedure to complete the installation of slopes with your own hands using drywall:

• Clean the opening from dust, foam residues.
• Drill connectors for dowels at a distance of 20 cm around the perimeter - it is necessary to improve the adhesion of the material to the surface.
• Using a tape measure, measure the width and height of the door opening and cut out the guides: two side and one top.
• Having stepped back from the door lute about 1.5 cm, attach a guide to the self-tapping screws so that its narrow edge is in the inner part of the slope.
• Measure the size of the strips for the slopes and cut them out of drywall. When cutting, try so that the edge of the drywall does not crumble and is even.
• Dilute the glue to a homogeneous, thick sour cream.
• Apply the adhesive mass in piles to the cut parts of the drywall.
• Glue the dowels with glue.
• The drywall sheet is inserted into the guide and pressed.

• Check the location of the slope with the level, then fix it for 6 hours.
• Remove protruding glue with a cloth.
• Periodically tap the surface with a hammer through the trim.

The next day after installation, the slopes can be further processed: putty, paint.

Laminate slopes

Laminate is a floor covering, often used for the slopes of the entrance door, it does not need to be further processed, it resists mechanical stress. DIY finishing has a lot of nuances.

There are two ways to install laminate slopes:

• Frame installation. With this technology, you can insulate the opening: fill it with mineral wool or foam. Lack of design - the strips are placed only in a horizontal position.
• Adhesive installation. It requires a flat surface of the opening, or it must correspond to the dimensions of the laminate. The laminate is glued to the foam (at low pressure).

The first method is preferable for apartments, the second is universal.

Slopes from MDF panels

Most common finish: Affordable, good looking, easy to install.

Necessary materials:

• MDF panels.
• Wooden bars, width 3 cm.
• Dowel.
• Self-tapping screws.
• Liquid nails.
• Platbands.
• Decorative corner.
• Guide bars.

Instruments:

• Perforator.
• Drill.
• Scissors, knife.

Installation of door slopes from MDF - do-it-yourself installation algorithm:

• Clear the opening.
• Drill holes for the dowels around the perimeter.
• After, attach the rails, guides.

• Measure dimensions and make part templates for slopes.
• Cut out the details.
• Install the upper part onto the self-tapping screws. Check that there are no gaps.
• Install the side parts in the guides: inside on nails, outside on self-tapping screws.
• Paste the outer corners with a flexible decorative corner to hide self-tapping screws and irregularities.
• Paste the corners inside with a decorative strip and the finish is ready.

After finishing the work, you need to install the platbands. If wallpapering is still to be done, they are installed after the repair is completed.

Advantages: the finishes look presentable, easy installation.

Sandwich panel slopes

A PVC sandwich panel is two thin sheets of plastic with a layer of insulation (sheet thickness 1 cm).

Materials, tools for installing PVC sandwich panels on the front door:

• PVC sandwich panel.
• Profile (start, cover).
• Liquid plastic.
• Roulette.
• Self-tapping screws.
• Screwdriver.
• Drill.
• Screwdriver.

Installation of slopes from sandwich panels, or how to do it yourself:

• Clean the opening from dust and foam residues.
• Measure the parts of the sandwich panels (length - width): one top, two side. For convenience, you can cut out a cardboard template so that there are no gaps between the parts of the PVC sandwich panels after installation.
• Cut the starting profile, attach it to the self-tapping screws (10 cm indents) along the edge. You can not use the profile: make an opening in the foam with a depth of 1 cm, insert the edge of the sandwich panels there.
• Install the top PVC panel.
• After that, cut the starting profile to the width of the slope, install it under the ceiling and at the base of the floor. This can be avoided if there is liquid plastic - the cracks can be repaired with it. But do not use a sealant - it darkens.
• Installation of sandwich panels strips.
• Close the sections of the sandwich panels with a "cover" profile. Slice and set. An overlap is formed in the corners of the structure.
• In the place of the overlap, cut the profile at an angle of 45 degrees.

If desired, the space between the PVC sandwich panel and the wall is filled with polyurethane foam. This is done after installing the sandwich panels.

More about installing slopes with your own hands after installing the front door, watch the video

Non-standard solutions

In addition to the above standard methods using popular materials, you can use more original options that emphasize the interior, decorate the front door and surprise your friends:

• Artificial stone - non-standard finishing of slopes. The main advantage is resistance to mechanical stress (if it is not a plaster model, it is fragile). Not a cheap option, it requires the participation of a specialist.

• Tile. A type such as clinker (imitation of brick or stone) is suitable.
• Plastic panels are an affordable but unreliable finish.
• Decorative plaster - in terms of aesthetics, endurance, it has no equal. But you will need to work hard to find a good specialist in this area, because this work requires creativity and professionalism.

Materials can be combined if their properties are similar (details of sandwich panels + stone, laminate + tiles and others).

Door slopes - represent the distance between the door leaf and the wall, which is made out with the help of any material (putty, MDF, laminate, plastic).

Decorating door slopes in most cases is done by hand, in order to save money. If special skills and tools are required for the installation of the door frame, then the slopes can be drawn using available tools and materials.

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Basic rules for installing door slopes

In order to make the slopes with your own hands, you should take into account several basic rules. It is necessary to remember that the door leaf opens freely, the slopes are made 2 centimeters higher than the level of the box. Taking measurements is also one of the significant moments when installing slopes. With the correct measurements made, it is very easy to purchase the required amount of material. Also, when finishing the slopes, correct marking and fastening of the material is required, which will allow the installation to be carried out with the highest quality. An important point in the design of door slopes is the presence of an intercom or alarm. If you plan to install them in the future, you should think over in advance all the necessary leads to the room.

The main methods used when decorating doorways

For finishing door slopes, various types of materials and methods of their installation are currently used. The most popular ones are carried out using panels, drywall, laminate, plastic or MDF. Often, designers propose the use of extraordinary approaches to the design of doorways. For example, with the help of artificial or natural stone, ceramic tiles, mirrors, the cork finish also looks advantageous and modern.

Do-it-yourself door slopes video:

Preparatory work for the installation of door slopes

Before starting work on finishing doorways, you should decide on the method, as well as prepare the opening, door and all the surrounding space. It is advisable to cover the door leaf and nearby walls with plastic wrap so as not to damage the material and stain the surface. You should also take care of the floor covering, it is best to protect it with cardboard. Free the door surface from all elements that protrude and may interfere with installation: door handles, as well as locks.

If unnecessary plaster remains on the slopes, it is better to remove it and clean the surface of unnecessary substances (dust, dirt). To improve heat and sound insulation, you should use polyurethane foam to get rid of all cracks. For a better workflow, it is necessary to moisten the concrete. Fill all gaps and wait until the polyurethane foam has completely dried and expanded. Then cut off the excess with a clerical knife.

If in the future it is planned to install additional lighting above the doorway, at this stage it is required to conduct all the wires and cables in order to hide them under a layer of plaster.

MDF slopes

Plastering doorways

The plaster is applied before the painting process or before finishing the doorway with panels. Usually they are plastered with cement mortar, to which sand is added, sometimes components are added that contribute to the faster hardening of the material, such as alabaster.

Note!

If subsequent painting of the surface is planned, it is necessary to additionally level it with a putty.

To finish the doorway with plaster, you will need: cement and sand, level and, putty to level the surface, alabaster and serpyanka mesh, a brush for applying a primer to the surface.

Work technology:

1. First of all, the cleaned and prepared surface of the slopes is covered with a concrete primer. It is kept for the required time.
2. At the next stage, beacons are installed according to the building level. To keep the profiles on the surface of the slopes, you can fix them by applying a small amount of the mixture to the surface, and add alabaster, which accelerates the hardening process. The beacons are aligned using the building level.
3. Then, with the help of a trowel (construction shovel), a ready-made solution is applied and distributed over the exposed beacons. In order for the solution to dry completely and gain maximum strength, it is necessary to wait a day.
4. If the design of the room involves painting the openings, you should achieve maximum evenness of the surface using a layer of putty for finishing work. All joints of the material, in order to avoid the appearance of cracks, it is better to glue with a serpyanka.
5. The finished structure, if desired, can be pasted over with wallpaper or painted with various types of paints.

Finishing door slopes MDF

You can also finish the door slopes of MDF, plastic or vinyl, which are attached with an adhesive backing. This type of finish fits well into the complete picture of the door opening, a single texture and color scheme. MDF is a material that is made from pressed types of wood.

To finish the doorway using MDF, you will need: a plastic corner, finishing panels, platbands, glue, a stationery knife and a jigsaw for sawing the material, as well as a roll and a spatula.

Work technology:

1. Plaster the door openings as described above. After the plaster has completely hardened, the surface is covered with a primer and allowed to dry.
2. Measure and cut out the material, try it on at the place of the future location and, if required, trim it. Currently, the range of stores offers the consumer to purchase ready-made material according to the size of door slopes.
3. The glue base is required to be applied on both planes - both the opening and the material, the mixture should be kept for several minutes, then pressed with the force of the part to the surface. Excess glue that has appeared between the surfaces - remove. If it is necessary to support the structure, additional boards are installed until the glue is completely dry.
4. The final stage in the installation of MDF panels is the fastening of cash-boxes.

Panel door slopes with frame fastening

Do-it-yourself door slopes are easiest to accomplish by attaching the panels to the frame; no preliminary plastering of the slope surface is required. There is a significant drawback of this option - finishing with panels fastened to the frame is several times inferior to plaster in terms of sound insulation and thermal insulation. A significant advantage over other types is the speed of dismantling old panels and attaching a new material to the same frame. In this case, the panels are attached to frames made of metal or wood. The entire structure is set strictly according to the level, which allows you to smooth out the existing irregularities and drops. For finishing in this way, various materials are used: panels, drywall and, in some cases, laminate.

To finish the door slopes, you will need: finishing materials, wooden boards or a profile for fastening finishing materials, screws and self-tapping screws, a screwdriver, if the selected material is drywall, you will need to fill in the seams, tape measure and

1. Material guides are attached (for drywall - metal guides, for other types of material, wooden structures are usually used). If the surface is rather uneven, you can fix it with bars of different sizes. It is important to make a rough structure according to the level so that the future opening looks as even as possible.
2. If you intend to put slopes on the front door, it is better to insulate it with mineral wool.
3. The selected finishing material is adjusted to size. Then it is fixed to the frame.
4. The screws are screwed into the entire structure, then the stage of gluing all the seams with a serpentine and putty follows. It is enough to attach MDF material to liquid nails.
5. If you plan to finish the opening with a laminate, then fix the first board with screws, the next are fixed with a factory lock, and the fourth is also attached with liquid nails or screws.

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The installation of the front door can be considered complete as soon as the door leaf is installed in place, all the fittings are attached and the correct operation of the locks has been checked. However, at this stage, only the installation work has been completed, and the finishing of the door slopes is still ahead. For a fee, you can entrust the implementation of this task to the specialists who installed the entrance structure, but this process, most often, will not be done right away, because it is necessary to choose the finishing method and select the material. And is there any point in spending finances if you can arrange door slopes with your own hands? You just need to choose one of the options for decorative finishes, prepare the necessary tools and materials yourself, and devote some free time to this activity.

After installing a metal door, its front side looks perfect: the platbands provide the finished look of the structure, but inside the room there is something to work on. We will have to eliminate all the consequences of the installation work: hide the fasteners, close up the exposed material of the opening, in other words, draw up the slopes for the entrance doors. This can be done in one of three ways:

1. level with cement mortar and plaster;
2. glue the finishing material;
3. make a frame structure and sheathe it with sheet material.

To determine which way is best to make door slopes with your own hands, let's take a closer look at each of these options.

Slope plaster

If you have set yourself the goal of how to make the most durable slopes on the front door with your own hands, then you should choose this option. This is not the fastest, but the most reliable way. A layer of mortar and plaster will become an additional barrier against heat loss, and at the same time improve sound insulation. In addition, the hardened layer of cement mortar provides additional strength to the door structure. The downside is that plastering is the most time-consuming process of sealing door slopes. In addition, it is not the final stage of registration: you will still have to paint the slopes or choose another method of finishing.

Bonding finishing material

Various materials can be used for this method, but in order for them to hold well, the surface of the slopes must be flat. If during installation on the entrance door the geometry of the opening was violated, it may be necessary to pre-level the walls with mortar.

Frame fabrication and sheathing

It is the fastest and "cleanest" option to decorate the door slope with a frame structure. Various materials can be used as cladding: drywall (with subsequent finishing), MDF panels, PVC, laminate. To insulate and improve the soundproofing properties of the door, a heater is placed inside the frame.

Preparation for the installation of slopes

Before proceeding with the design of the slopes for the entrance door, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work:

1. First, we provide protection of the door leaf and frame from dust, dirt and accidental damage. To do this, you need masking tape and plastic wrap.
2. Next, you need to align the base of the opening. We cut off strongly protruding irregularities, remove fragile loose materials.
3. We thoroughly clean the surface of dust using a hard bristle brush or broom. Cleaning is especially important if cement mortar and plaster are to be used - dust and debris greatly reduce the adhesion of the material.
4. The next step is surface priming. If the walls are made of a porous material such as aerated concrete, a regular primer can be used. In other cases - deep penetration composition.
5. At this stage, it will be a good idea to provide for the possibility of laying the cable so that later you do not have to drill through the wall. For the through hole, an aluminum tube with a diameter greater than the thickness of the cable can be used. The tube is fixed at the bottom, next to the baseboard. If the slope of the entrance door is framed, then the pipe for the cable is laid after assembling the structure.

Slope plastering process

Let's consider step by step how to make slopes on the doors using a plaster mixture.

1. To get a flat surface, first install the beacons. In order for them to fix as quickly as possible, we use a gypsum solution for this, which hardens literally within one to two hours. Along the length of the slope, it is necessary to place 2-3 piles of solution diluted in accordance with the instructions, put beacons, check their position using a level and adjust them so that they are in the same plane.
2. When the solution in which the beacons are installed has firmly seized, we proceed to the preparation of a cement-sand plaster mixture. We take the amount of cement and sand in a ratio of 1: 4. To thoroughly mix the solution, use a drill mixer attachment. We run the tool at low speeds. If you add a small amount of gypsum to the batch, the finished mixture will set faster.
3. To apply the solution, we use a trowel and a spatula. We spread the mixture on the slope section and align it with the installed beacons.

Finishing can be started only after the plaster has completely dried. The full hardening time depends on the layer thickness. It is better not to rush to apply the putty, and wait a day. When the finishing putty is dry, the surface of the wall is prepared for painting or other finishing option as desired.

Adhesive slopes

Now let's look at a way to make the slopes of the front door using sheet material and an adhesive base. For this option, you will also have to induce a cement-sand mixture, since the surface of the wall must be pre-leveled. We adhere to the following procedure:

• We screw self-tapping screws into the cleaned and primed wall surface. Our task is to get an emphasis from the caps of the self-tapping screws, on which the cladding material will lie. The hats should be in the same plane. When deepening the screws, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the cladding material.
• When we have prepared a kind of "landing site", we begin to fill the entire slope space with cement-sand mortar. We apply the thickness so that the caps of the screws rise slightly. We are waiting for a day until the plaster dries.
• We measure the slopes on the door and cut out panels of the appropriate size. We use any suitable material for this: drywall, plastic, MDF.
• We select an adhesive composition that is suitable for the material. We cover the plastered slope and the back of the material with glue. We firmly press the sheets to the slope so that they rest against the caps of the screws. We check the position of the sheets with a level.
• Slots and voids that may remain along the perimeter of the slope are sealed with gypsum mortar or hidden with a corner.
• We carry out decorative finishing of the slope.

Installation of slopes on the frame

In order to install the slopes of the entrance door with your own hands on the frame structure, you will need wooden bars or a metal profile, as well as facing material to your taste: drywall, MDF, plastic or laminate. It will be nice to prepare insulation at the same time in order to improve the heat saving of the door structure and its sound insulation properties. We will lay the insulation in the cavity of the frame base.

To fasten the frame to the wall surface, we will use self-tapping screws or dowel nails. We install the material on the finished structure, which we cut out in advance according to the size of the slope. We decorate the joints with a decorative corner.

Features of the choice of material for slopes

MDF Laminate Plastic

Plastered and then painted slopes are considered the most durable and durable. If you are going to decorate the slopes of the entrance doors with your own hands in a different way, you should take into account the peculiarity of the materials: their compliance with the conditions of service and stability.

If the slopes are installed on the front door of the apartment, which is not subject to changes in humidity and temperature, then any material can be used. For cottages, you should opt for materials that are not subject to drying out and damage from moisture. Alternatively, purchase moisture resistant panels.

For finishing slopes, it is customary to use:

• Drywall is an inexpensive material. Installation is carried out with glue or self-tapping screws. Corner elements made of this material must be reinforced with special corners. Needs subsequent finishing.
• MDF is a durable, wear-resistant material with decorative design of the front surface. It has many shades and textures. Fastened with clamps or self-tapping screws.
• Laminate is a material, after the installation of which the slope acquires an aesthetically finished look. The lamellas are installed both in the longitudinal and transverse directions. Thanks to the lock fastening, it quickly and easily joins together. The first and last element of the vertical slope must be attached to the wall. The horizontal slope is fixed to the wall surface along the entire edge.
• Plastic is less durable than all of these materials. The installation process is similar to laminate slopes. To protect the plastic from shock loads, the cladding is attached every 10-15 cm. The advantages of plastic panels are easy hygienic maintenance and many decorative options.

From the presented options for the design of door slopes, it will be easy to choose the most suitable method and material. At the end of the work, remove the protective film from the door leaf and frame.

When installing the front door to the apartment, you must remember two folk sayings: “ greeted by clothes ..." and " the king is made by the retinue". What is it for? Entering the premises, the guest forms his first impressions of the owners and housing just by the door. Therefore, they should look presentable, emphasizing the wealth in the house, in harmony with the decoration of the hallway and, at the same time, be a reliable protection from uninvited visitors.

However, such an effect cannot be achieved without sloping work, both outside and inside. They are the same previously mentioned suite that turns even the most ordinary door into the most important element of the apartment interior. If anyone doubts, you can look at the photo below, which shows the doorway without finishing the door slopes.

What are the slopes for?

A part of the unfinished wall always remains near the installed front door. Platbands are installed along its plane from the side of the landing and the apartment. Slopes are placed on the front of the doorway. They are needed for several reasons:

• give the door an aesthetically finished look;
• isolate the hallway from the penetration of noise and cold from the entrance;
• ensure a harmonious transition from the front door to the inner surface of the wall;
• hide the mounting elements of the door frame from intruders;
• to seal grooves, cracks, cracks in the doorway.

When are installed

Installation of slopes on the front door is carried out:

• when replacing the door block. It will not be possible to install a new door without damaging the walls nearby, especially since the installation recommendations directly mention the need to remove old slopes;
• damage to the material from which the slope is made: cracks, crumbling, deep scratches, etc. appear. Defects can appear both as a result of mechanical impact, and during the operation of the door due to microvibration;
• changing the interior of the hallway. Decorating the slopes of the entrance door from the inside with your own hands is also carried out with a new design of the corridor, when the doorway begins to fall out of the general style. The fact that the slope affects the general appearance of the room has been noticed quite recently;
• the appearance of mold or mildew. Quite an unusual, but appearing reason with enviable regularity. It is almost impossible to get rid of such a misfortune without replacing the slopes. Antiseptic treatment does not help, since the problem is hidden inside the finishing materials.

Options for finishing the slopes of the entrance doors

Finishing options for jambs can be very different, unusual, but harmoniously fit into the design of the apartment.

Plaster

One of the most conservative methods for finishing slopes is plastering. It was first used several centuries ago and immediately became the undisputed leader. With the advent of new finishing materials, the popularity of plastered slopes has plummeted. The method has many advantages:

• no power tools are used in the technological process;
• lower cost of finishing in comparison with alternative options;
• high strength - at the same time strengthens the ends of the walls in the doorway;
• insulates the technological gap;
• easily washed from dirt;
• tolerates jumps in temperature and humidity without consequences;
• long service life.

The downside of the process:

• laborious work;
• a lot of dust and dirt;
• plaster skills are needed;
• it takes several days for the solution to gain strength;
• not the most attractive look - you can only paint or paste over with wallpaper.

The last point is debatable. The advent of reflective decorative film with a 3D effect alleviates the problem in many ways. In addition, you can use decorative plaster, which is not cheap in every sense.

Drywall

Decorating slopes with plasterboard is leading by a huge margin among budget options. And this is not surprising, since the method has many positive aspects:

• low cost of finishing;
• high heat and sound insulation;
• environmentally friendly materials;
• simple installation technology available to novice builders;
• GKL can be closed openings of any shape;
• long period of operation.

The disadvantages of experts include:

• weak resistance to water - when an apartment is flooded, in 90 cases out of 100 you will have to change the slopes. They will necessarily draw in moisture from below, even if moisture-resistant types of drywall are installed;
• the need for finishing (priming, putty, painting, wallpapering, pasting with decorative films);
• low strength.

It is also possible and necessary to argue with the last point. There are several ways to increase the strength of drywall sheets several times:

• plant it on solid glue, without the formation of voids;
• buy gypsum plasterboard with a thickness of 12.5 mm (wall);
• when installing the lathing, do not allow distances between the profile of more than 20 cm.

Wood

Another old way to decorate slopes is to clad them with natural wood. For many, strangely, it seems like a manifestation of provincialism.

But expensive wood species with the possibility of artificial aging, in several ways, allow you to get a very beautiful, rich-looking coating with a very long service life, both for metal entrance doors and for wooden ones. All minor damage can be restored. A few more pluses:

• with their help, an almost ideal insulation of the space between the door frame and the wall of the opening is carried out;
• environmentally friendly material;
• you can buy in the store, or you can make the slopes on the front door with your own hands, applying the most original design ideas in practice.

In apartments, this method is rare due to the high cost, in contrast to villas and cottages, where it comes first.

Laminated MDF panels

Slopes from laminated MDF panels are gaining popularity. Extensions made of this material are especially in demand.

For reference: jambs can be repaired with non-laminated MDF boards, which is much cheaper. The only problem arises: how to decorate the slopes of the front door inside the apartment - paint or paste over.

The use of MDF panels for the arrangement of slopes has many advantages. They:

• keep punches of medium strength without collapsing. When heavy and bulky pieces of furniture are brought into the apartment, the risk of damage is reduced to zero;
• are available in various designs (relief, colors, imitation of valuable wood species, etc.), which makes it easy to fit into any interior, from classic to high-tech;
• easily assembled by one person;
• have good noise and heat insulation properties;
• can be installed with both wooden and metal doors.

There are few cons, but they are significant:

• the panels are very expensive, second only to wood, as well as natural and artificial stone;
• scratches remain from sharp objects;
• constant care is necessary - it is difficult, and often almost impossible, to wash the accumulated dirt;
• cannot be installed in rooms with high air humidity, which, however, has nothing to do with apartments.

PVC panels

Attempts to transfer the experience of installing slopes on plastic windows made of PVC panels to front doors do not give the expected result, despite the simple installation, diverse design and low cost of PVC. There are several reasons:

• thin material comes into disharmony with the material of the door, although if you try hard, you can pick up acceptable types of panels;
• easily deformed and damaged - there is no gentle mode of operation, like on windows;
• poorly holds geometry with deep slopes.

Sandwich panel

Sandwich panel slopes are made of plastic. But it has a significant difference from the slopes of PVC panels: the interior is not hollow with stiffening ribs, but is filled with polyurethane sealant. On sale you can find material with a thickness of 10, 24, 32 and 40 mm and a width of up to 1.5 m.

Among the undoubted advantages:

• beautiful appearance;
• simple care is the most undemanding material in this regard;
• not afraid of high humidity and sudden changes in temperature;
• simple installation technology - all work is done in one step;
• no finishing required;
• allows you to trim a wide slope, up to 1.5 m, with one sheet;
• has an absolutely flat geometry.

High-quality panels have the same drawbacks during operation as PVC panels: they are scratched and poorly cleaned. Inexpensive sandwich panels turn yellow over time, and also crack when subjected to mechanical stress (shock).

Natural and artificial stone

Fashion is a capricious lady. It comes without asking, then it leaves. This fully applies to slopes made of natural and artificial stone. They were very popular at the end of the last century, but then faded away. Now the fashion for them is returning. Buy not only inexpensive, like sandstone, stone, but also natural, very expensive, marble and granite.

The stone has many advantages:

• there is no need to level the jamb surface;
• you can do all the cladding work yourself - the technology is similar to laying tiles;
• the material is combined with any interior;
• stones have unique patterns, shades and texture;
• not afraid of water, frost and fire;
• safe for the health of the apartment owners;
• durable - difficult to damage;
• has a long service life exceeding the service life of the doors.

Among the disadvantages:

• very high price for most types of stone, including artificial ones;
• requires masterly work when decorating walls on the border of two materials: slope stone and wall material.

If finances allow and everything is done correctly, according to the instructions, then the stone slopes look fantastically beautiful. This is the case when the price matches the quality.

We looked at the basic finishes that are quite common. In practice, many other finishing materials are used (laminated chipboard, ceramic tiles, parquet, one-sided sandwich panels, etc.).

It makes no sense to consider them separately, there is no - they are derivatives of those considered (laminated chipboard is similar in terms of installation technology and characteristics to MDF panels, tiles with natural stone, one-sided sandwich panels with two-sided, etc.). There are also rarely used materials: laminate and lining.

Lining

Any wood material has undeniable advantages. In the case of clapboard for slopes, experts and designers talk more about the cons:

• difficult to fit into the interior;
• small slopes are problematic;
• capriciously refers to changes in humidity;
• treatment with antiseptics and fire-fighting impregnations is needed;
• high price, approximately equal to MDF and slightly lower than natural solid wood.

As a result, experts advise in such cases it is better to spend a little more money, but make a choice in favor of natural wood.

Another option for finishing slopes "for an amateur" is a laminate. Him:

• sufficiently high strength;
• a large selection of colors and textures, which makes it easy to choose the necessary material for the design of the hallway;
• good thermal insulation properties;
• easy care.

Among the cons:

• good conductor of noise;
• afraid of changes in temperature and moisture;
• the service life does not exceed 15 years - one of the lowest rates among all materials used for jamming.

DIY instructions for finishing slopes

All technologies for the device of slopes can be divided into three basic types, which are found with variations in everyday practice.

Materials and tools

1. Plastering with a cement-sand mixture. This is the cheapest, but at the same time laborious way. For work you will need:

• cement with sand or dry cement mixtures;
• deep penetration primer;
• putty;
• fiberglass or serpyanka;
• metal perforated corner to strengthen the outer corner;
• finishing materials (paint, wallpaper or decorative film);
• masking tape to protect the door frame;
• short rule;
• level;
• Master OK;
• paint brush (roller) for priming the wall;
• bath for primer;
• container for stirring the solution;
• an electric drill with a mixer attachment for mixing the solution;
• a set of spatulas;
• grater;
• fine sandpaper or masking net.

2. Gluing finishing materials on the wall using various adhesive mixtures. This method of finishing is more expensive, but simpler and shorter in duration than the plastering process. In addition, it provides a huge selection of design solutions for the interior decoration of the hallway and entrance door. For work you will need:

• finishing materials (plasterboard, PVC panels, chipboard, MDF, natural wood boards, etc.);
• adhesive mixture (specialized glue, putty, polyurethane foam, dry gypsum plaster);
• primer;
• antiseptic solutions;
• level;
• a set of spatulas;
• paint brush;
• a primer cuvette;
• construction pencil;
• roulette;
• a long, even object for drawing a cutting line on panels or gypsum board;
• cutting tool (a knife for drywall, a hacksaw for panels or a grinder with a cut-off wheel);
• a container for stirring a solution or glue, if it was bought dry;
• construction mixer or electric drill with attachment.

When working with drywall, you will need a perforated corner to strengthen the corners and a serpyanka to seal the joints of the upper slope with the side ones.

3. Fastening the slopes to the crate. The method is available only with a significant gap between the jamb of the doorway and the frame. If it is 2-2.5 cm, then the only option is glue.

The method has many advantages: quick installation, a convenient opportunity to hide various cables, the ability to make an opening with a significant "dawn" and install hidden lamps to illuminate the inner doorway. Neither consumers nor experts note the disadvantages of this method.

In the process of work, you will need:

• facing materials;
• frame bar - made of wood, metal or metal profile;
• dowels with self-tapping screws for fastening the battens to the wall;
• self-tapping screws or "liquid nails";
• antiseptic;
• hammer drill with a set of drills;
• screwdriver or Phillips screwdriver;
• construction knife for drywall;
• grinder for metal cutting;
• file for wood;
• level;
• plumb line;
• roulette.

When working with gypsum board, you will additionally need the materials listed in clause 2.

With everything you need close at hand, you can get to work. Consider how to make the slopes of the front door with your own hands from various materials.

Plastering

Step by step work is performed in the following order:

• the ends of the walls are prepared for the application of a cement-sand mortar: the old plaster is removed, the remaining fasteners, the surface is cleaned of dirt, loose pieces of brick and loose concrete. The foam protruding from under the box is cut off;
• the jambs of the opening are primed twice. The second layer is applied after the first has dried. The beam above the door is processed by Benonokontakt, also twice;
• the outer corners are reinforced with a perforated corner, which at the same time will serve as a beacon when applying the mortar. It is fastened with putty;

• near the door, a second beacon is placed on self-tapping screws, also from a plaster corner;
• the box and door leaf are closed with plastic wrap, which is attached with masking tape;
• Diluted DSP in the ratio of sand and cement 1 to 1, for "spraying";
• spray is applied;
• after the first layer has dried, the second is applied - the primer. The solution for it is prepared according to the instructions, with the addition of fiber to reduce shrinkage and prevent cracking. The soil layer should not exceed 3 cm - otherwise, the procedure must be repeated;
• after the soil gains strength, but does not completely dry out, a finishing operation is carried out - a thin, 1-2 mm, layer of liquid solution is applied, in the language of plasterers - a cover, which allows you to get a smooth surface. If the slopes will be pasted over with wallpaper or decorative film, this is enough. The surface of the plaster is putty under the paint.

The plaster technology is discussed in detail in the work: "".

Plasterboard

The technological process of installing drywall slopes completely coincides with the technology of installing panel slopes from MDF and chipboard. Both here and there can be attached to glue or to the frame.

Therefore, using the example of gypsum board, we will show a step-by-step algorithm of work when attaching to glue, MDF - to lathing.

When working with glue, you must:

• clean the surface of the walls from dust and dirt, remove excess foam, and then treat it with an antiseptic and a primer (or a primer with an antiseptic already added in production);
• on the floor and on the door frame, draw the lines of the slope with a pencil;

Attention: if you plan to run drywall behind the box profile, then the width of the sheet should be 1 cm larger, the slope line is drawn only on the floor, a slope is cut in the foam.

• measure the slopes, and then cut the sheets of gypsum board to size;
• glue the upper slope, for which purpose apply the adhesive mass in heaps (when using polyurethane foam, it is applied with a thin snake);
• for better fixing of the slope, two or three stops are installed;
• after the glue has set, the side slopes are attached, the joints are sealed with a serpyanka and putty. After the putty has dried, they are cleaned with fine sandpaper, after which the surface of the drywall is putty;
• after the putty has completely dried, the slopes are painted or pasted over with a decorative film.

You can also use the combined method: a wooden block is attached near the box. GKL is attached to it with self-tapping screws. From the side of the apartment, the sheet is taken with glue. The only thing that must be remembered is to lay the insulation between the wall and the drywall from the side of the door by 2/3 of the slope width.

The process is described in detail in the work "".

MDF panels

The frame method is used with a technological gap of more than 3 cm. For frame elements for drywall, you can use all types of bar, including a metal profile, for panels only wood.

The work is carried out in the following sequence:

1. the tree is treated with an antiseptic, after which it is cut to size;
2. using self-tapping dowels, the bar is vertically attached to the opening close to the box and flush with the edge of the wall on the other side;
3. horizontal strips are attached if the panels will be fastened with liquid nails (when fastening with self-tapping screws, two vertical strips are enough);
4. all cells are filled with insulation - the procedure is mandatory;
5. the dimensions of the slopes are measured;
6. the panel is cut in accordance with the obtained measurement results;
7. with the help of liquid nails or self-tapping screws, MDF is attached to the crate.

PVC panels

A more or less erudite landlord knows that plastic panels are attached using special profiles fixed to the wall. These stripes are always visible and taken for granted. But not in the case of slopes.

Here you can fix the panels in a special frame (they will be located horizontally) or take them on glue. However, there is a limitation here: the width of the slope cannot exceed the width of the panel, because butt joints are not provided.

The operations are performed in the following sequence:

1. the surface of the wall is being prepared. If the differences in height are more than 2 mm per meter, the surface is plastering or puttying. The type of work depends on the curvature of the surface: a large drop is eliminated with plaster, up to 1 cm - with putty;
2. the walls are measured, after which the slopes are cut. As in the case of drywall, when the panel is launched behind the door frame, its width increases by 1 cm. It is necessary to trim it from the side of the spike;
3. to increase adhesion (adhesion), the wall is treated with a primer, and the plastic on the back with sandpaper;
4. the adhesive mass is applied along the perimeter with a continuous tape, and inside the panel - with a snake;
5. the slope is pressed against the wall and immediately comes off. In this way, glue is applied to the wall, which is absorbed into the pores and seizes. After 5-7 minutes, the fragment of the slope is finally glued.

Laminate is available for flooring. However, Russian craftsmen have found another use for it: to lining slopes. The process completely repeats the technology of the device of slopes from PVC panels. The lamellas can sit on glue (only foam is used) or be installed in a pre-installed frame.

Artificial stone

When working with stone, artificial or natural, the main thing is to draw up a diagram of the location of each element, draw it in real scale on the slope and wall, if it comes in the form of a platband, and also lay it out on the floor.

The stone is fixed with glue or a special mixture using a seamless method. Seams are present when facing slopes with ceramic tiles. The wall should not have drops exceeding 1 cm. If more, then the DSP alignment is carried out.

Clapboard

The lining is attached to a wooden lathing with self-tapping screws. To prevent the material from cracking, holes for self-tapping screws are drilled in advance with a drill. The drill diameter should be 1-2 cm less than the self-tapping section. The hats can be sunk and sealed with a special compound, or they can remain in sight. Here is a matter of taste of the owner.

Conclusion

The choice of slopes has become a headache for the owners due to the huge number of possible options. Can be used:

• plaster, including decorative;
• drywall;
• natural wood;
• laminated MDF and chipboard boards;
• PVC panels;
• artificial and natural stone;
• lining;
• tile;
• laminate;
• sandwich panels, one- and two-sided.

For fastening the facing material, the glue method and the frame method are used. The main thing when choosing is to fit the slopes into the interior of the apartment.

Related Videos

No one wants to overpay when installing doors. That is why the decision is often made to make the slopes of the front door with your own hands and not to hire builders. If you approach the process with imagination, even a non-specialist can handle the work.

There is not always a complete set of tools at home for all occasions. And the owners of apartments in panel houses are well aware of how difficult it is to drill holes in concrete walls still built in the Soviet Union. Therefore, in some cases, you can sacrifice the correct finishing of the slopes, greatly simplifying your work.

PVC slopes with and without frame

Perhaps the easiest, fastest and "cleanest" way to decorate slopes is to arrange them with PVC panels. There are even universal panels on the market that combine a slope, a corner and a platband.

The advantage of such a slope is a flexible connection between the panel itself and the casing, which allows it to be adjusted to walls with angles deviating from 90 degrees.

The installation process of these slopes is simple to disgrace:

Due to the flexibility of the plastic, such slopes can be installed even on uneven walls. But the ideal result will not work - cracks will necessarily form, and in places with an insufficient amount of polyurethane foam, the plastic will "walk". But this is the fastest solution to the problem!

PVC slopes on a primitive wooden frame will look much neater and more reliable. You can even use PVC panels with a wood or stone design, without platbands at all.

For this:

To prevent the panels from clapping when the front door opens, the empty space between the bars can be filled with insulation of a suitable thickness or blown out with polyurethane foam. This will also provide additional sound insulation.

"Wet" way of finishing slopes with your own hands

Leveling and plastering slopes remains the most economical option. And even if everything cannot be done perfectly exactly, this will not in the least affect their service life. The process takes place in several stages:

1. Preparation:

1. Screed application:

• the cement mortar is kneaded - you can do it yourself or purchase a ready-made one;
• for 1 kg of cement, it is necessary to take 1 kg of lime and 5 kg of sifted sand - the solution should be moderately thick and not spread, because the vertical walls and the top of the slope are leveled;







• after the screed has dried, you can apply a regular primer and start applying the plaster.

1. Slope putty:

1. Decorative finishing:

• slopes can be painted or pasted over with wallpaper, creating a monolithic canvas with walls;
• in both cases, a primer is applied to the putty, and a decorative coating is applied on top.

You should not try to save money and skip any of the stages - this will only worsen the final result and you will have to redo everything again.

Plasterboard slopes

If working with a perforator does not scare you and you don’t want to bother with a cement screed, you can arrange the doorway with sheets of drywall. This is especially true for houses with thick walls, where the slopes are very wide.

Plasterboard slope frame

In order for the sheets of drywall to be reliably fixed and can withstand even finishing with artificial stone or tiles, you will need a wooden or metal frame:

For the slopes of the entrance door, especially if it faces the street, it is better to use moisture-resistant drywall. It is also important to remember that there is always a small gap between the floor and the gypsum board to prevent the drywall from getting wet. With decorative finishes, this gap will still disappear.

Plasterboard slope on plaster

Instead of the frame, the gypsum board can be fixed with plaster foam. Is it not strong enough? But if the load on the sheets is small, then the safety margin should be enough. The technology itself is simple, even a layman can handle it:

What should not be forgotten when finishing slopes

Slopes are not only the aesthetic appearance of the doorway, but also its protection from drafts, moisture and noise. Therefore, regardless of the finishing method, it is important not to forget:

1. Check the tightness of the door frame installation. To do this, it is enough to hold a lighted candle around the entire perimeter with the door closed and the window open. If the flame deviates to the side - in these places you need to add polyurethane foam.
2. Protect walls under overhead slopes from mold and mildew. For brick and concrete walls, there is a special antiseptic primer; for wooden and frame walls, one must not forget about the device of vapor barrier and processing of wooden elements with fire and bio-protection.
3. Remove all debris and loose elements around the door, even when installing slopes on the frame. Otherwise, the abrasive dust remaining after the repair will still seep into the room, and pebbles that periodically fall off will add gray hair to impressionable residents.
4. Insulate the slopes of the door that goes directly to the street, and not to the dressing room. Otherwise, additional heating costs are guaranteed.

Even MDF slopes can be made without a punch and unnecessary debris. This is clearly shown in the video: