A change in the color of thuja leaves can occur by a huge number reasons. And the sooner the correct one is determined, the greater the chance that the plant will continue to delight with its beauty for a sufficiently long period of time. To do this, you need to carefully examine the tree and try to establish why this happened.
Causes of yellowing thuja
The main reasons why thuja turns yellow are:
- natural processes.
- Change of color according to the season.
- Landing errors.
- Care problems.
- Animals.
- Diseases.
- Pests.
natural causes
There are times when the yellowness of thuja leaves appears closer to autumn. This happens because their lifespan is coming to an end. Most often, 5-6 years after the appearance of the shoot, it loses its chlorophyll grains, after which it turns yellow and eventually dies. Another one comes to replace him. In this case, individual thuja branches turn yellow and gradually fall off. This happens in the inner parts of the crown around the trunk. This process is absolutely natural, and nothing can be done about it.
Change of color according to the season
Such types of thuja, such as western and folded, acquire a golden-bronze color in the winter season. At the same time, Holstrup, Brabant and Columna arborvitae become only slightly brownish. In turn, very lush crown arborvitae of the Smaragd variety, even in the most severe frosts, remains richly green.
Such changes in the color of the plant are completely natural, since they are a reaction to a change climatic conditions. But as soon as spring comes and the movement of juices begins, the thuja again acquires its former shade, starting to please the eye. But if this change did not occur in the spring, you should be worried. This means that the tree is not feeling well or is missing something.
Landing errors
Unfavorable conditions, the result of which may be yellowing of the leaves and their subsequent fall, as well as the drying of the branches of the lower tier and even the death of the plant, are:
- planting thuja in sand-rich soil, due to which everything nutrients very quickly go deep into the ground;
- planting a plant in clay soil. Its structure is dense, there is little humus, as well as oxygen. In this regard, thuja roots cannot develop as they need;
- the choice for planting a thuja is rather low areas with peat soil, on which water stagnates. In this case, the plant will quickly freeze and begin to rot.
The best soil for growing thuja is considered to be well-drained, but fairly moist soil with the addition of sand and peat.
Mistakes in care
The most common mistakes when caring for thuja are:
- insufficient watering. If you choose the right moisture regime for the plant, it will regain its former crown color;
- high groundwater level. This phenomenon suffers root system plants, in connection with which its leaves turn yellow;
- deepening of the base of the trunk and branches of the thuja. Due to this, drying out can occur, followed by the subsequent fall of the leaves.
Animals
If dogs regularly mark thuja, a black coating appears on its bark from below. In addition, animal urine is also capable of causing quite serious harm to the plant. And we are talking not only about the bark, but also about the color of the crown. Its yellowness may appear if the plant is in a place where a large number of animals marks it.
Diseases
Brown snow mold, or brown schütte, can be found on young specimens of arborvitae in early spring, as soon as the snow melts. On the leaves, a black-gray cobweb raid of the mycelium will be noticeable, after which point fruiting bodies of the pathogen will appear. Due to this, they do not fall off for a long time, but thin branches soon die off.
And it also happens that some mushrooms settle on the branches of the thuja, which destroy the tissues of the bark and affect the surface layers of the wood of the plant. In this case, the tree initially turns yellow unevenly, but over time, the shade becomes the same everywhere and very dull. Further, the entire affected shoot turns brown. However, these symptoms are not characteristic of this disease. To confirm the diagnosis, it is necessary to detect fungal spores, which appear as dark dots, as well as tubercles with a diameter of 1-2 mm.
Pests
- stem;
- sucking.
The first type can be found in the entrance holes in the bark, as well as passages of a very bizarre shape on the wood itself, located under the bark. Save the plant from this kind of pests should be immediately, because otherwise it often dies.
Sucking insects cause a brownish tint in the leaves of the thuja, as well as their tarnishing. And if the crown is covered with black bloom and hordes of ants crawl along it, this is the first sign that sucking pests have appeared on the plant.
How to care for thuja in the garden so that it is lush and green?
If you want to admire the beautiful green plants on the site, then you need to know how to care for the thuja so that it does not turn yellow or turn black.
It happens that the thuja loses its color, splendor and beauty after winter or planting, and many novice gardeners do not know how to restore health to conifers. To avoid mistakes and learn how to properly contain thuja on garden plot, it is necessary to remember and apply the rules of agricultural technology when cultivating coniferous plants.
Depending on when the thuja was planted, it will be carried out further care. The correct landing and the chosen place for the ephedra will be the starting points for the next steps, these two important factors have a huge impact on the health of plants in the future.
For thuja planted in spring and summer, first of all, thorough watering is required once every seven days, provided that the days are warm, but not hot. If the weather is sunny and the air is hot, increase watering to twice a week.
The volume of water introduced under the shrub should be at least one bucket under normal conditions, in extreme conditions - two. Large quantity liquids will be required by an adult and big plant, and in cases where a transplant was performed.
The first month of thuja growth is accompanied by mandatory sprinkling, during which the pores open and the plant begins to breathe, you can feel a subtle coniferous smell. The scaly thuja needles actively evaporate moisture, therefore, they constantly need to be replenished with water.
Thuja is sprayed once a week; on sunny hot days, sprinkling is required every day. best time irrigation of plants is considered evening, after sunset, but it is possible in the morning if the thuja is not in the sun for a couple of hours.
Tui after planting in the fall require watering and sprinkling in the same volumes as spring seedlings. A young plant needs to gain enough moisture to overwinter well, if the autumn is rainy and protracted, watering should be stopped or reduced. An excess of moisture for a period of more than two weeks can lead to thuja disease.
There is no need to fertilize the thuja after planting; appropriate top dressing should have been applied when planting. If, for some reason, fertilizers were not applied, and the soil on the site is poor in trace elements, then it is better to feed the plant, but this can only be done in spring and summer.
When fertilizing in the fall, shoots and twigs will begin to develop in the thuja, which will not have time to form by winter, and may die during severe frosts.
Thuja after planting is best fed with a solution of Zircon, the drug stimulates the formation of roots, improves the absorption of water and nutrients by the plant. The fungicidal and antiviral properties of Zircon will protect conifers from diseases, viruses on early stages development.
Thuja care at different times of the year
Thuja care begins after winter, lasts all spring and summer, ends in late autumn. According to many gardeners, the plant is unpretentious and can grow with minimal attention, however, a number of significant problems arise in the process of growing: thuja is dry after winter, turned black, turned yellow after transplantation, how to water, what to feed and what to do about it? There are answers to all these questions, consider the most common and most important.
When to open thuja after winter?
It is not necessary to remove the shelter from the plants immediately with the appearance of the first rays of the sun, especially for young seedlings growing for the first year. Make sure that the ground around the thuja has thawed and warmed up a little, then remove the covering material. Having opened earlier, there is a risk of yellowing of the thuja, since the warm sun will cause the growth of twigs and shoots, the root system of the conifer in frozen soil will be at rest, and water exchange will be disturbed.
What to do if the thuja turned yellow after the winter?
Before proceeding with active actions, you need to find the reason for the yellowing of green twigs and shoots, there may be several of them:
Spring burning of the coniferous part of the plant. A fairly common occurrence, to avoid this, the plants are shaded already in the month of February, and not in April, when the snow melts. Do not use dense fabrics and materials to cover the thuja, gauze and mosquito net fit quite well.
Spunbond is not suitable, as it transmits ultraviolet rays, which are most dangerous for arborvitae in the spring. There is no need to “wrap” coniferous plants in a fur coat, the greenhouse effect inside will only worsen the condition of the green beauties. If the moment is missed in early spring, water the seedlings warm water and spray the plants with Ecogel - Antistress biostimulant to accelerate growth. With the beginning of summer, it will be necessary to cut off the burnt branches;
in the photo - yellowed thuja
Root locking occurs when water stagnates on the site or nearby groundwater. Excess moisture in the soil can be a source of not only yellow needles, but also mold on thuja. If the plants have been in the water for a short time, remove the bad branches with a pruner, gently loosen the ground around the trunk shallowly, being careful not to touch the root system.
Treat with any antifungal drug, spray the crown and branches with Zircon or Epin to stimulate growth. In case of close proximity ground water thuja must be transplanted to another place, since over time the roots will grow even more, the plant will die from an excess of moisture;
If the thuja turned black after the winter, it is most likely that a fungal infection has set in. Cut off all bad branches and treat with Hom, if the fungus reappears, treat again. Thuja trunk circles can be watered with a solution of Fundazol or another fungicide. The plant can turn black if pets mark it, protect the plant and treat it with any fungicide.
In spring and summer, as in autumn, thuja is watered as well as after planting, taking into account weather conditions and observing time frames. Top dressing of thuja begins in early spring, ends in the second half of August, so as not to cause the growth of shoots by winter.
In the first year of life, plants are not fed, then fertilizers are applied as needed. Use complex fertilizers for thuja, such as Osmokot (10-15 grams per bush) or Kemira-Universal (100 grams per 1 m² of plantings).
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Thuja is a durable and unpretentious plant, which, with its strict beauty, is ideal for any garden and will delight more than one generation of people. But even in the care of unpretentious green pets, some difficulties can arise. Let's deal with one of these problems - why does the thuja turn yellow.
It may happen that scaly needles suddenly begin to turn yellow on your beautiful thuja. What to do? First of all, it is necessary to find out the cause of yellowing, and in our case, the reasons may be different.
Although the thuja is a long-liver, its needle-scales have more short term life, namely: from three to six years. Having lived the time allotted to them, the needles grow old, lose chlorophyll grains, turn yellow and fall off, and young ones grow in their place. This is a normal, natural process that should not cause any concern.
Also, a natural process is the seasonal change in the color of the needles of some types of arborvitae. This is due to the adaptation of the plant to frosty winters and lack of light. In the spring, when daylight hours increase and the process of sap flow begins, the color of the needles is restored.
For example, the basic (wild) varieties of folded thuja (Thuja plicata) and western thuja (Thuja occidentalis) become golden-bronze in winter. Decorative varieties Holstrup, Columna and Brabant take on a light brown tint. But the Smaragd variety, even in severe frosts, remains a deep green color.
Thuja folded 
Thuja western "Columna" 
Thuja western "Smaragd"
Wrong fit
Often thuja turns yellow with improperly selected soil and landing site. Let us dwell on the main points that can cause yellowing.
When planting thuja, it is very important to choose the right soil mixture. On clay, heavy soils, the roots will not receive oxygen and will not be able to develop normally. Sandy soil allows moisture to pass through it very quickly, and the plant does not receive enough water. The most suitable soil for this plant should be nutritious and light (a mixture of soddy soil, sand and peat). Drainage is very important, as stagnant water is detrimental. For the same reason, thujas should not be planted in places where groundwater is located close to the surface.
An important point is the level of landing of the thuja. With a strong penetration of the root neck, the trunk will begin to rot, and if it is not deep enough, the roots will dry out.
It happens that a young thuja immediately begins to turn yellow, here the reason may be in a bad seedling. When buying, you should pay attention to the humidity of the earth coma, the branches should be elastic and flexible.
When planting these plants in groups (for example, a hedge or a high curb), you must strictly maintain the distance between them. The minimum gap between thujas is 1 meter. With heavily compacted plantings, thujas begin to hurt.
If you saw the reason for the yellowing of your thuja in the wrong fit, then it must be urgently transplanted in compliance with all necessary conditions, and then the tree will not disappear.
Wrong care
Another reason why thuja turns yellow is mistakes in caring for it.
Diseases
The fact that your thuja turned yellow may be to blame for some fungal diseases. Tui are most often affected by them. In the course of the disease, they form brown-black outgrowths or rounded spots on damaged tissues, in which spores develop. These diseases affect the trunk, branches and needles.
Shutte brown
For example, Shutte brown in early spring, it wraps thuja branches with cobweb dense mycelium of brown or gray color. The needles also become brown, it does not immediately fall off, as it is glued together by this plaque. If urgent action is not taken, then the entire plant will be infected and die.
Another type of fungal disease destroys the tissue of the cortex. This leads to necrosis. Absolutely all its parts are affected, while the bark often begins to fall off. The needles also change color. The change occurs first in separate spots, which then merge. Most often, necrosis affects trees weakened by adverse weather conditions ( very coldy, drought). Sick trees attract stem pests.
Some types of fungal diseases affect old, low-lying branches, while others affect only young growth. The fight against them consists in the careful removal of damaged branches and treatment with fungicides. Moreover, it is necessary to spray repeatedly with an interval of two weeks.
root rot
Very dangerous disease thuja is root rot . In this case, the fungus Phytophtora cinnamomi destroys the surface tissue of young roots. The plant turns pale yellow and then dries up completely. The main symptom of this disease are changes in the trunk in the region of the root collar. The bark in this place becomes softer, a plaque appears with light dots, and the trunk under the bark from cream turns brown. Young thuja from this disease dies in one season. In a hedge, after the disease of one plant, mass infection is possible. Therefore, at the first sign of illness, the entire plant must be dug up and burned. And it is better to replace the earth in this place, since the spores of the fungus remain in the soil. Phytophthora fungi infect thujas weakened by heavy soils, so be sure to take care of proper planting and caring for the plant.
Coniferous plants in the garden are a true decoration that brings grace and rigor to the landscape, which has a magical…
Pests
Tui, like other conifers, has pests that form two main groups.
1. Sucking
A distinctive sign indicating the defeat of the thuja by this type of insect is the appearance of a gray coating on the needles and the massive movement of ants over the plant.
- Thuja false shields they look like brown buds, and juniper scale insects form growing yellowish ulcers. They are attached at the base of the shoot. BI-58 is well cured, as well as drugs such as Aktara and Lufox.
- Moth moth. Activated in May. Its larvae gnaw passages in the scales of the thuja, which leads to a change in color and the death of the shoots (the tip is most often affected). To combat the moth, drugs are used, which include pyrethroids.
- thuja aphid. It lives most often at the bottom of the trunk. It sucks the juice from the needles, this leads to yellowing and falling of the needles. It is necessary to spray with Karbofos.
Moth moth 
thuja aphid
Mayfly bagworm
- Mayfly bagworm. Her caterpillars feed on needles and thuja twigs. A characteristic sign of the defeat of this insect are silky yellow bags (about 5 cm) hanging from the branches. This insect causes a mass fall of needles, greatly weakens the plant, which makes it more accessible to other pests.
- Larch leaflet. The larvae of this insect damage the needles of the thuja, weaving it into small cocoons. The needles then turn yellow and fall off.
- spider mite. The presence of a thin cobweb and small light dots on the thuja needles will tell you about the defeat of this pest. If the lesion is very strong, then the plant becomes white and covered with cobwebs. You can fight the tick by repeatedly spraying with insecticidal and acaricidal preparations (for example, Actellik, Envidor, Akarin, Fitoverm and others).
Weevil beetles (mower beetles)
- Weevil beetles (mower beetles). In spring, these insects eat the needles and bark of young plants. And the larvae living in the soil feed on the roots. This causes browning or yellowing of the needles. To combat the larvae, it is necessary to water the soil with an insecticide (for example, Aktara, Antikhrushch). It is also effective against beetles and larvae to pollinate the soil around the plant with the Confidor preparation.
2. Stem
Thuy beetle
If the bark exfoliates on your thuja, and under it you find intricate holes and passages, then it means that the plant is attacked by stem pests (bark beetles). In our case, this thuja beetle(Phleosinus). It damages the bark so much that the plant dies. On the damaged areas, small holes gnawed by the beetle are visible.
The fight against bark beetles is very difficult. One of the means of struggle are pheromone traps. They are attached to a tree and are used to attract these insects. When they flock to the trap, the tree with them is uprooted and burned. Antipheromones are also used, on the contrary, they repel beetles. These substances are safe for humans and animals.
To combat stem pests, you can use drugs such as BI-58, Aktellik, Clipper, Fufanon and others.
Thuja is popular in landscape design thanks to its beautiful evergreen needles. Therefore, any disease immediately affects its decorative effect, sometimes causing irreparable harm. Let's try to figure out what factors affect the yellowing of the thuja and what to do to avoid this trouble.
Thuja is characterized by unpretentiousness and resistance to diseases, as well as to pest attacks. However, like any other tree, this resistance is not absolute - the plant can periodically turn yellow, shed its needles, and its branches can dry out. To find out how to help thuya in such a situation, you first need to establish the cause of such phenomena. There may be several of them:
Natural. Often the needles live from three to six years, and after this period they first lighten, then turn yellow and, in the end, die. This process is accompanied by staining yellow individual branches in the middle of the crown around the trunk. Subsequently, such parts of the tree simply fall off. A similar phenomenon is called branch fall and is observed, most often, in autumn.
Seasonal. In winter, some types of conifer can turn golden-bronze, brown, brown. Thus, the tree reacts to a cold snap and adapts to frost. With the advent of spring, the needles should return to their usual color. However, if after the winter the thuja turned yellow and did not turn green again, it's time to think about what to do, because in this case you are dealing with some serious problem that needs to be addressed as soon as possible.
Did you know? Seasonal color changes are characteristic of the western and folded arborvitae. The varieties of European arborvitae "Brabant", "Columna" and "Holmstrup" turn slightly brown. In winter and summer, the variety "Smaragd" remains monochromatic, for the needles of which no frosts are terrible.
Like all conifers, thuja is prone to sunburn in spring. At this time (preferably from February), it must be covered with kraft paper, agrofibre or other similar devices. Animals. The reasons for the change in the color of the thuja and the drying of the needles can also be regular bowel movements of cats or dogs on it. From dog urine, the tree is covered with a black coating.
Also, the causes of changes in the appearance of the thuja can be improper care, diseases and pests. We will tell about them in more detail.
Wrong care
Over or under watering
Thuja loves well-moistened soil, but can not stand the stagnation of moisture, however, as well as the close occurrence of groundwater.
The recommended frequency of watering for arborvitae is once a week, during dry periods, twice a week, and in the first month after planting, daily. The volume of water during irrigation, under normal conditions, should be a bucket per tree (with adverse factors-two buckets). So that moisture is retained in the soil, but does not stagnate, the earth in trunk circle it is necessary to mulch: in winter - with sawdust, in summer - with peat.
Excessive watering and stagnant moisture for more than two weeks lead to rotting of the roots of the plant and contribute to the development of fungal diseases. With insufficient watering, the thuja turns yellow and dries.
He loves thuja and periodic sprinkling, especially in the summer heat. It is better to do this in the evening, so that drops on the needles do not provoke sunburn.
Mistakes in feeding
Top dressing for thuja is useful, but in moderation. If fertilizers were applied at planting, then in next time the tree will need to be fed after two years. In spring, the plant is fertilized with nitrogen compounds, in early summer with potassium. If the tree grows on poor soil, then in summer fertilizers containing phosphorus will also be needed. However, it is worth remembering that excessive fertilization can cause root burns and yellowing of shoot tips.
Important! In no case should you feed the thuja before winter period. It is fraught with development different kind diseases.
About what substances she lacks, thuja can tell you with her appearance. So, yellowing or strong lightening of the needles often occurs due to a lack of iron. In this case, the thuja should be fertilized with a complex fertilizer, for example, Kemira Universal or Osmokot. If young tree suffers from a lack of phosphorus, its needles will turn red-violet, and with a nitrogen deficiency, arborvitae slow down growth and development, become chlorotic. Wrong choice of place for thuja
When choosing a place for planting a conifer, one must take into account the fact that the tree grows well on drained soil as part of soddy soil, peat, and sand. Planting it in sandy, clay or peaty soil can adversely affect the development of the plant, causing yellowing and shedding of the needles or drying out of the lower branches.
Did you know? IN wild nature the most beautiful thuja grow on moist, fresh, slightly acidic or neutral soils in mixed forests.
For proper fit thuja needs to know one rule - the root neck should be at ground level, not deepened into it. It is not worth deepening the tree strongly, this can lead to dropping of the needles and rotting of the bark in the lower part of the trunk. In the future, it is necessary to ensure that the root neck is not completely exposed, otherwise it may also suffer appearance ephedra. Harmful for thuja are thickened plantings. Where the branches different trees will be in contact, the needles may turn yellow and fall off. Recommended minimum distance between seedlings -1 m.
Thuja is a light-loving plant, so it must be planted on open areas. However, the first time after planting, it is important to shade the seedling from the sun, otherwise the needles may lighten. It is advisable to choose a place for landing where direct sunlight will not fall on it at noon. Of course, thuja will not grow in full shade and will completely lose its attractiveness. Remember: the condition and appearance of the plant in the future will depend on the correct planting and choice of location.
How to cure thuja from diseases
If you planted a tree, following the recommendations, you are sure that you are taking care of it properly, but you notice that it turns yellow, looks lethargic or sheds its needles, then the cause of such phenomena may be the defeat of the thuja by some disease characteristic of conifers.
Phytophthora is one of the most dangerous diseases of conifers, including thuja. If you run it, then it will be impossible to help the tree. The development of this disease can be recognized by characteristic signs: thuja needles acquire a gray color, the tree fades, Bottom part the trunk becomes soft and covered with bloom. The fungus that causes phytophthora infects the root of the shrub, which becomes brittle, begins to rot and exude bad smell. When such symptoms appear, when it is already clearly visible that the thuja is disappearing, it will be too late to think about what to do. You will have to get rid of the tree, and change the ground under it, since the spores of the pathogen can exist there for a long time.
The main causes of phytophthora are stagnant moisture and lack of drainage in the soil, as well as damage to the bark by larvae of wireworms and bark beetles. For the prevention of the disease, fungicidal sprays are used with "Fundazol", "HOM", "Abiga-Peak".
brown shoots
Yellowing of individual scales in early spring may indicate the development of a fungus on the thuja that causes brown shoots. As it multiplies, the entire shoot turns brown and dies. If such signs are found, infected branches should be removed immediately.
In order to prevent the plant, it is necessary to fertilize, and sprinkle the soil under the trunk with limestone. Also, every 14 days, from July to October, you can spray "Fundazol" (0.2%).
Rust and Shutte Tui
Frequent diseases that affect conifers are rust and schütte, which mainly harm young trees. Ailments are manifested by a change in the color of the needles to a darker, brown, followed by their fall. Black dots form on the needles - foci of sporulation. Diseased branches are cut and destroyed. For the purpose of prevention and treatment, the plant must be sprayed with copper-containing preparations (Bordeaux mixture, "HOM", "Oxych"). Also for treatment coniferous trees use watering under the root "Fundazol". Schutte is treated with the drug "Topsin-M". Regular mineral supplements are used as protection.
How to deal with thuja pests
Tuyu can damage whole line harmful insects. Their vital activity on a tree leads to serious damage to the needles, bark, and also provokes further development fungal diseases. So, thuja is affected by sucking, needle-eating, root-damaging pests.
Yellowing needles may be the result of the presence of aphids. These small gray-brown insects feed on the sap of the tree on the underside of the shoots. If a small number of them are found, weekly soap washing of the needles can help, but in case of a massive defeat, you will have to resort to the use of insecticides allowed for thuja.
Important! When washing with soap, the soil under the thuja must be covered in order to prevent the soap solution from getting on the roots.
spider mite
Already from the name of this pest it is clear that the result of its vital activity will be a web. Entanglement of needles with cobwebs is one of the characteristic symptoms of the fact that thuja is rampant spider mite. Also, the needles become covered with yellow spots, turn brown and crumble.
The spider mite can cause the greatest harm to plants suffering from drying out of the soil on hot days. This pest is very prolific and produces up to six offspring per season, so the fight against it will require serious efforts.
For the purpose of prevention, it is necessary to prevent the drying of the soil in summer season, as well as often "sprinkle" the plants to maintain good humidity.
To get rid of the tick, spraying with infusions of dandelions, garlic or a solution of colloidal sulfur is used. With mass infection, acaricides will help.
bark beetle
The presence of holes in the bark of a tree indicates the presence of stem pests. One of them is the bark beetle.
The leaf roller makes cocoons between the needles, connecting them with a web. It can eat needles for a month. Its harmfulness is very high, since this small insect can lead to the death of a tree.
For prevention and treatment, thuja is sprayed twice with insecticides: in May and in the first half of June. With a strong infection, the treatment is repeated in July.
Trapping belts are used as preventive control measures. They are made from burlap or straw and put on trunks in early spring. Such devices will not allow insects that wake up in the soil after wintering to get to the needles.
For minor damage, use mechanical way fight-false shields with a brush or a blunt knife, simply peel off the bark. In advanced cases, insecticides are used.
The larvae of the pestry moth leave behind brown needles and dying tops of the shoots. They gnaw small holes in the needles. For laying eggs, the moth flies out in May, but it is rather difficult to notice it, since its size does not exceed 4 mm.
In order to prevent moths from laying eggs on a tree, it is sprayed twice with preparations containing pyrethroids in the second half of June - early July. The tops of the shoots will need to be cut off.
Also, thuja is attacked by a wireworm, which harms the roots of the plant. As a result of its harmful activity, the immunity of the thuja is greatly undermined, it begins to lag behind in growth and development. The wireworm can also be the answer to the question "Why do thuja branches and needles dry?". Trees growing in low-lying areas with acidic soil and frequent moisture stagnation suffer from this pest.
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Tui - very beautiful and undemanding plants. But sometimes, looking at your beloved hedge, one has to see an unsightly picture - yellow spots on the large plots needles.
Why does thuja turn yellow? What are the reasons and what to do?
There are a lot of factors that contribute to changing the color of the needles. But it's pretty easy to fix them..
Beautiful thuja is easy
To understand what to do, you need to find out what are the rules for caring for thujas. Light, moisture, nutrition and soil structure are all of great importance. As well as timely control of diseases and pests. This is what you need to know and observe in order to admire beautiful large trees.
Light mode
- One of possible causes failures in the cultivation of thuja is the decay of needles. This phenomenon is possible when plants are planted too close to each other or to the wall of the building, to the fence. This disrupts not only natural ventilation, but also reduces the amount of light needed for needles.
- In early spring just the opposite reason is possible - an excess of ultraviolet and sunburn greenery.
If the first reason is the case, then it is necessary to transplant the plants, eliminating the thickening of the plantings and providing them with a good natural air ventilation(ventilation) and light access . In the second case, plants should be covered away from direct sunlight or transplant to a shady area. By the way, thuja feel better in places with diffused sunlight.
Thus, do not thicken the planting of conifers and avoid burns from direct sunlight, which is especially true for young plants.
Watering and nutrition
Optimum level of soil moisture - necessary condition beautiful shape and thuja colors. Why needles may turn yellow if not observed proper watering? Both lack and excess of moisture harm the plant. In the early spring period, moisture stagnation is fraught with freezing of the root system; in the later growing season, this same phenomenon can cause root rot. In cases of soiling of an earthen coma, it is better to transplant the thuja to another place. Continue to avoid over-watering.
Too much fertilizer can also cause needles to turn yellow. Do not be too zealous in this matter. However, it is also necessary to know that the lack of iron in the soil causes yellowing of individual shoots. It is important to choose the optimal composition and amount of fertilizer depending on the type of soil in your area. It would be ideal to use special mixtures for conifers for planting thuja.
Conclusion: make sure the soil is suitable enough for arborvitae according to the supply of nutrients and the moisture regime, and then the tree will not dry and turn yellow, but will delight you with a beautiful crown.
How to winter?
A slight yellowing of the needles is possible during the onset of winter cold. This is a seasonal and normal phenomenon, and with the onset of warmer and longer daylight hours, it passes naturally. Browning of needles inside the plant, from the trunk, is also normal. This is caused by the processes of natural death of the needles due to the outcome of their life time, which is approximately five years. At the same time, new needles grow, hiding dead areas, so that the appearance of the plant remains quite presentable. If you do not like individual branches, then you can simply cut them off.
Compliance with agricultural technology "care before winter" will allow you not to worry about the plants until spring. And the needles will not turn yellow from freezing.
Correct fit
Improper planting agrotechnics is another significant cause of problems with thujas. The root collar should not be too deep or exposed. It should be level with the ground. The problem of transplantation is eliminated. If the plant is planted in sandy soil, then the position will also have to be changed by changing the location. For in this case, the thuja will not receive enough moisture: the water will go into the deep layers of the soil. That is why in this case the plant will suffer, and you will see an unsightly picture of your pet drying out.
Fungal infections and insect pests also become a frequent cause of changes in the condition of conifers. Bordeaux mixture will help to cope with infections, and Actellik will eliminate pests.
To prevent insect damage, it is worth using tape traps attached to plant trunks in early spring.
The needles also turn yellow from the urine of animals, for example, cats, dogs. And from the defeat of the bark of a tree by animals or winter frosts. Therefore, domestic animals should not be allowed on the site with conifers. And the so-called freezers- lesions and cracking of areas of the cortex from sub-zero temperatures- first treated with a Bordeaux mixture, and then covered with garden pitch.
Subject to all the above recommendations, your tui will delight the eye with beautiful green needles with early spring until late autumn before shelter for the winter and the question, "the thuja turned yellow after the winter, what to do," you will no longer be bothered. And your guests will ask for advice on how to grow the same wonderful trees.