Often to ensure ventilation you can limit yourself to aeration. It is necessary to make holes with dampers, it is advisable to choose the recommended places so that the air circulation is soft and constantly maintained. If necessary, you can use forced air exchange systems.
Over the oven
Outside air inlet equipped above the heater... An exit is made in the opposite wall, it must be lower than the entrance. The warm stream will be lifted up by a jet of cold air and exited through the hole. Due to the constant release of warm air, cold air will not be able to enter through the outlet.
Behind the oven
Air inlet can be positioned at the bottom of the wall behind the stove... The stove will heat the incoming cold air, so there will be no drafts or sudden temperature changes. The outlet ducts can be built in the floor. They can pass through the subfloor, passing into a ventilation pipe that brings air out to the street. The air outflow created according to this scheme saves heat, helps to reduce heating costs, and gives comfort to those in the bath. The main advantage is additional heating of the subfloor. It dries well, so mold and various fungi do not grow in it.
Under the oven
The hole is being made next to the stove as low as possible... When cold air passes by the stove, it heats up, so it rises up. Outlets are made in the corner opposite the oven. To create the first, you need to measure 1 meter from the floor, and the second is built under the ceiling. They are connected by a ventilation box that can be brought out to the roof, for example, through the attic.
Hood under the floor
The inlet for the supply draft must be equipped from the back of the oven... It should rise by 1.5 m from the level of the stove. The hood is installed under the floor, at a distance of about 30 cm. A fan is installed in the exhaust hole. All incoming air will be heated absolutely evenly. First, the air masses are heated from the oven and rise upward. After cooling down, they rush down, go out into the street. To keep warm for a longer time, you need to make the exhaust hole as low as possible.
Other popular options
- If there is no other possibility, you can make an air inlet anywhere on the wall near the stove, and an outlet also in a free location, but in the opposite wall. To speed up the air circulation, a fan can be installed for the outlet.
- The location of the inlet and outlet openings on one wall opposite from the stove. Air will enter through the structure at a height of 30 cm from the floor, and exit through the installed one at a height of 30 cm from the ceiling. This scheme is perfect for baths with only one outer wall.
- The inlet is placed at a distance of 30 cm from the floor behind the stove, and the outlet is also at a height of 30 cm, but on the opposite side.
- Option for baths with a continuous cycle. The blower of the stove is used as an exhaust hood, so there is a need to equip only one hole for the air inlet. It must be placed opposite the brazier at the height of its level.
One of the main elements of ventilation there is a chimney for the bath. Warm air comes out better through a pipe than through ventilation holes. To freshen the air as quickly as possible, you need to open the chimney along with the equipped holes.
The temperature in the bath must not be allowed to drop lower than the outdoor temperature. In this case, there is a risk of smoke pollution in the room in which the stove is located, usually a steam room. The cooled air forms a plug, it can be released by opening all the dampers on the ventilation openings, and connecting the chimney. Sometimes you have to use a special opening for ash disposal.
Video on how to make ventilation in the bath with your own hands.
Do-it-yourself steam room ventilation
It is advisable to install a stove in the steam room. It provides the basic ventilation system. Air from the steam room passes through the blower, so its circulation is already well ensured. The blower is used instead of a special hood device. For maximum air outflow the oven must be installed at a level lower than the finished floor. To start ventilation, you only have to slightly open the front door or window. The disadvantage of this ventilation method is its maintenance only during the combustion of the furnace. If the device is inoperative, the hood stops completely.
In addition to the heater-stove, ventilation in the bath is maintained additionally equipped with holes(see photo below). They must be closed with latches with a lattice. To regulate the air exchange in the steam room, you just need to open or close the shutters. After each park, it is necessary to ventilate the room, therefore, open the openings for a while. If this is not done, the air will remain humid, heavy, and there is also a risk of carbon monoxide poisoning due to its high content.
When the steam room only heats up, the stove is heated, you need to make sure that the openings are tightly closed. When the room is warm enough, they can be opened. In order to avoid the formation of back draft, it is necessary at the construction stage to provide for the area of the exhaust openings to exceed the supply openings. Steam accumulates at the very top, in order to lower it, you can spray water in small quantities on the floor. To quickly release the steam, you can also wave the broom, towel in different directions.
If the stove is not installed directly in the steam room, then a different ventilation method is used. An inlet is made near the heating device at a height of 30 cm from the floor. On the wall opposite to it, an exhaust hood is made, placing it 30 cm down from the ceiling.
Sometimes the inlet is placed behind the stove at the bottom of the wall. The air coming from the street is warmed up by the stove, so the room cools down moderately. On the wall opposite to the stove, you need to form 2 openings. They will form one exhaust duct. The first opening is made at a distance of 1 m from the floor, and the second under the ceiling. The air is discharged through the hood to the roof.
With the device of such ventilation, the steam room is quickly heated, while fuel is saved. A musty smell in the room is prevented, as the subfloor dries well.
Natural ventilation
So that fresh air flows into the bath, you need to make a small opening in the wall, located at a distance of about 50 cm from the stove. A retractable damper is equipped for it, which allows you to regulate the amount of incoming air. Too high an arrangement is not reasonable, since the hottest air rises to the ceiling. To make the most of the heat from the stove, you need to make a hole in the middle of the wall. If the hole is too low, the thrust will be minimal. In order for it to be carried out correctly, it is necessary to install a ventilation pipe or purchase a fan.
Forced ventilation
To ensure that the steam room receives as much fresh air as possible, openings should be placed diametrically to each other... If forced air outflow is to be used, it is advisable to make the inlet higher than the outlet. If it is possible to build a ventilation system in which the air flow enters from below, heats up from the stove, rises up, and then goes outside, then the installation of additional fans is not required.
When using fans do not place both the supply and exhaust openings at the same level. The air supply can be closed, which will lead to a concentration of cooled air masses from below, while it will be too hot at the top.
It is undesirable to locate an exhaust opening in the ceiling. When the incoming air goes up, you will have to spend a lot of time to sufficiently warm the room. Warm air rises quickly, mixing little with cold air, and quickly leaves the bath. You can take the air upward in the dressing room, if the goal is to heat it from the steam room.
Section of openings for ventilation should be related to the total area of the bath or steam room separately. Do not make the holes too small. If there is insufficient ventilation, it will take a long time for the air to renew, it may become too humid, and musty will appear.
Ventilation scheme in the steam room of the Russian bath.
Ventilation in the washroom
As in the steam room, there is also a large accumulation of moisture in the washing bath. To avoid constantly damp air, leading to the appearance of fungi and mold, it is necessary to ensure its timely removal outside. Lot water often accumulates under the floor, so an asbestos pipe is often sufficient for good ventilation. It can be placed in the corner. One end of the pipe is placed under the finished floor, and the other is brought out to the roof, you need to equip it with a deflector.
The construction of moderate, controlled ventilation allows you to keep the bath room dry, maintain a moderate temperature, get rid of moisture, constantly breathe in renewed, fresh air. Ventilation regulates the direction and location of the air inlet and outlet openings, carbon monoxide outlet, and saves on fuel for the stove.
In the bath, it is important to maintain an optimal level of humidity and temperature: steam, heat and the accompanying sharp temperature drop have a destructive force that can deform even building materials of the latest generation. But how to make ventilation in the bath so that such fundamental characteristics strengthen the durability of the entire building, and our health too? Let's consider the best options.
It has been proven that wood (the main material for the construction of baths) in these harsh conditions will last up to 20 years, but only with intensive air exchange. And the constant insufficient flow of dry air will force us to replace the skin in the steam room in 5 years, having paid a substantial sum for this repair.
Due to the lack of fresh air, the wood sheathing is intensely attacked by fungi and bacteria and depresses us with a persistent unpleasant odor. By the way, the use of aggressive disinfecting chemicals in the bath is absolutely prohibited. Therefore, let's figure out how to properly ventilate the bath in order to completely remove this harmful "cocktail" from the room, reinforced by mold and mildew spores.
Bath ventilation
Ventilation is the process of removing exhaust air and completely replacing it with outdoor air.
The ventilation mechanism is simple: through one opening fresh air enters the room, and through the second (exhaust) it goes out into the street. The strength of the air vortex depends on the size and location of such vents. In this case, the correct calculation of the parameters for a particular bath will help us to avoid popular mistakes.
Features of ventilation
Consider how to properly ventilate the bath.
Projects are carried out by professionals for any baths, but during the installation itself, it is important to comply with such conditions.
- directly during construction, since it is not easy and dangerous to break through ventilation ducts in an already finished building. In addition, a suitable ventilation scheme will inevitably require corresponding changes in the overall layout of the building.
- The exhaust outlet is always larger than the supply outlet: to speed up the outflow, 2 hoods are also equipped. In this case, the exhaust air will leave the room faster, making room for fresh air.
- We will regulate the rate of such replacement by valves: we will completely close them when heating the bath in order to quickly reach the desired temperature. In addition, in winter, we also cannot do without such a containment of the natural cold flow. So, the valves perfectly regulate the intensity of ventilation.
- The section of the hole is strictly proportional to the volume of a particular room: 24 mm per 1 cu. m.
In the photo - a gate valve for the hole.
- The supply ventilation system also presupposes air heating in winter and its cooling in summer. Exhaust ventilation only removes unhealthy air from the steam room.
Note!
The exhaust outlet must not be placed opposite the supply outlet: the air mass will not have time to gradually and gently mix, and a dangerous draft will form.
- A strong convection flow will freshen the air as much as possible, because in 1 hour it takes almost 10 times to renew the atmosphere in the steam room.
Ventilation methods
Experts have developed the best options for the location of the ventilation hatches themselves in the steam room, and the choice of a specific scheme depends on the peculiarities of the construction of the bath. Let's consider the most popular types.
Behind the oven
- The inlet will come in handy at the bottom behind the stove, while the heater will be in the path of fresh but cold air.
- We make the exit channels right in the floor, and the subfloor communicates with the one leading to the street.
- The exhaust air descends and goes underground through the holes, and from here through the pipe, it breaks out.
- This scheme saves heat, and always dries the damp subfloor, preventing the appearance of fetid and harmful mold spores there.
Over the oven
- The inlet for outside air is equipped above the heater, and the outlet is made in the opposite wall, but below the inlet.
- Then the warm stream near the stove will raise the cold stream, then lower and go outside.
- Cold air will not be able to penetrate through the outlet duct.
Under the oven
- We make the inlet next to the stove, below.
- Cold air, passing by the stove, heats up and goes up.
- We put the outlet pipes in the opposite corner, one meter from the floor, the other under. They are connected by a single ventilation box, which we bring out to a common channel or to the roof, or even to the attic.
- We equip all openings with grilles and valves that regulate the intensity of air flows.
Pull from the stove
If the stove is erected directly in the steam room, we will use this ingenious scheme:
- We arrange the stove so that the blower is below the floor, and we equip the inlet ventilation channel a little higher, above the floor.
- Now the stove itself will provide traction, without fans.
- The exhaust air leaves through its pipe, and the low supply inlet will increase the efficiency of the heater.
Hood under the floor
- We arrange the supply entrance behind the stove, one and a half meters from the level of the heater, but we make an exhaust hole on the opposite wall 30 cm below the floor.
- We will install a fan into the exhaust hole.
- The advantages of the scheme are in the uniform heating of the incoming healing air: the cold stream instantly heats up from the stove, goes to the ceiling, and when cooled, rushes down to the exit.
- The lower the hood, the stronger the recoil from the oven.
Other options
- Scheme 1: the cold stream enters the steam room, heats up from the stove and is removed through the hood on the opposite wall. To force air, we use a fan installed in the hood.
- Scheme 2: the instruction recommends that both the supply and exhaust openings be placed opposite the stove on one wall ׃ the entrance is 30 cm from the floor, and the exit is 30 cm from the ceiling. This is a great scheme if the bathhouse in the house has only one outer wall, and only that we use for ventilation vents.
- Scheme 3: we equip the inlet opening behind the stove, 30 cm from the floor. Place the hood on the opposite wall, also 30 cm from the floor.
- Scheme 4: for baths with a continuous cycle: here the stove was blown in - there is also an extractor hood, so with our own hands we equip only one inlet at the floor, directly opposite the brazier.
Mechanized ventilation
Let's clarify how to make the ventilation ideal in the bath: it is the electric heater that will provide an intensive supply of fresh air through the ventilation.
Artificial steam injection by a steam generator is widely used in modern Russian baths. Similar ventilation in a Turkish bath with an obligatory humidity of 100%. A mechanical hood is made here under a dome, but an air dryer is inserted into the pipe, which removes moisture into the sewer.
Advice!
In Russian baths, where steam is prepared by hand, we will use folk methods of ventilation: we will sew the bottom of the doors with a ventilation grill.
High-speed ventilation evenly warms up and comfortably refreshes the room. Special fans are made of heat-resistant glass polyamide and can withstand heating up to +130 degrees, consume 18 watts. The protection class of such a device is from IP-44 and higher.
Conclusion
Organization of soft, gentle, but fresh blowing of the steam room while maintaining a pleasant microclimate - in a special arrangement of the supply and exhaust openings, as well as specially arranged auxiliary equipment for them.
Ventilation depends on:
- direction and amount of warm air;
- lack of waste;
- economical fuel consumption.
Mechanical ventilation involves the use of software devices that control and independently maintain the set parameters of temperature, humidity, fresh air. But the cost of such an ideal is significant. However, the choice is ours.
Combined ventilation is based on the patterns of the placement of vents, and the difference in pressure is given to us by mechanical devices that extract air - fans. This is the best option for sauna ventilation.
The video in this article will clearly demonstrate to us the process of creating an optimal air environment in a bath.
Indoors, a person absorbs oxygen by exhaling carbon dioxide. Everything seems to be as usual, but if by such a room is meant a steam room, where hot steam constantly swirls, then fresh air in this case has nowhere to come from. In such a room it is impossible not only to have a rest, but even just to be. After all, the body gradually relaxes, the amount of oxygen, in turn, decreases, and by the time there is nothing to breathe, a person may simply not reach the door.
According to safety standards, the air in the steam room should be replaced many times a day so that the people who are there can rest and clean themselves. Otherwise, the person will not be able to recuperate and will return home tired, with migraines and oxygen starvation. That is why the bathhouse needs to be equipped with proper ventilation, because what can cope with the microclimate better than it? Neither herbs nor various incense will be able to add a couple of "usefulness" if there is no air circulation.
So, today we will talk about how to provide ventilation in the steam room with your own hands.
Improperly equipped ventilation can lead to certain consequences.
- Even with good ventilation, the tree is exposed to enormous loads, therefore it often lasts no more than twenty years. Without fresh air, the service life will be reduced several times.
- If carbon dioxide is not removed from the steam room, then its use will do more harm than good. In addition to carbon dioxide, combustion products accumulate there, and fungi and mold are permanent “guests” of any room with insufficient ventilation.
- If the steam room is not ventilated, it will soon be filled with the smell of rotten wood and stagnant air.
Another important function of air circulation is heat exchange. The fact is that air with high humidity does not conduct heat well and, as a result, the stove will only heat the space around it. That is why the ventilation inlet is usually located behind the stove, almost above the floor itself. This contributes to the fact that already heated air spreads through the steam room; if the ventilation inlet is located in a different place, then it will supply cold air to the room, thereby disrupting heat exchange.
The outlet must be installed on the opposite side from the inlet.
Note! A common mistake is often encountered: entry and exit are located at the same level. This creates a closed loop that hardly affects most of the room. As a result, it will be too cold below and too hot under the ceiling.
When arranging a bath, not only the correct choice of one or another ventilation scheme is important. The diameter of the ventilation holes is also of great importance. It is calculated as follows: for every 24 cm of the hole, there must be one cubic meter of the room, otherwise there will be no circulation.
It should be noted that it is advisable to equip the inputs and outputs with plugs to regulate the intensity of air exchange. The mines should be laid even during the construction of the bath.
Bath ventilation methods - which is better?
The steam room can be ventilated either by natural air movement or artificially by means of a specially installed fan. Artificial ventilation is rightfully considered simpler, because it is possible to properly equip the entrance / exit only with special knowledge and considerable experience.
Note! Not every duct fan is suitable for providing artificial air ventilation. The installed model must tolerate high humidity and temperature changes well, otherwise the electronics will break, which is extremely dangerous in an ordinary wooden structure, which is often a Russian bath.
Ventilation technology in the steam room
To begin with, we note that the air flow primarily depends on the oven. So it's worth figuring out how it works.
Where does the ventilation of the bath begin
It should be noted that the firebox can be located both in the steam room itself, and in the next room. Brick or stone is used for lining the furnace. A 5 cm gap is required between the cover and the metal.
Often, the firebox is installed in the rest room - so the garbage will not accumulate, and you will not have to run to the steam room every time in order to throw firewood. And now - directly to work.
First stage. Forced ventilation
A special channel is equipped for it, located above the floor. The channel should be located near the firebox where a metal sheet is laid to protect the wood from the ingress of coal.
Step one. First you need to build a special box, which would be about 1/5 larger than the chimney. The box is taken out into the street, and not under the floor, otherwise unpleasant aromas will constantly hover in the steam room.
Note! When the firebox is located directly in the steam room, two boxes are required at once - the second will be convection.
Step two. Next, you need to equip a special podium near the wall, in which holes are made for air flow. To do this, three rows of bricks are laid out with an "edge" - one under the wall, the second in the middle, and the third - at the edge.
Step three. The masonry for the stove is made 25 cm high up to the brick screen itself, in the upper part of it (the masonry) must be covered. There is no need to put the last two bricks in the place where the stove is located directly - so fresh air will flow into the stove itself. The end must be bricked.
Step four. The convection basket must be carried through to the end. A blower is installed at its end. It is imperative to put something under it, otherwise it will constantly rub against the floor when opening / closing and.
Step four. After the construction of the podium, the stove can be installed. It is better to do this on special metal corners, which will evenly distribute the load on the box. It remains only to overlay the oven and install a screen with several holes. These openings will be ventilation, which will allow you to warm up the room with hot air.
Second phase. Exhaust ventilation
We have already reviewed the technology for constructing the main heat pump. It remains only to take care of the air outflow. The ideal option is to install an exhaust duct diagonally to the supply duct, which will allow the steam room to be ventilated as efficiently as possible.
Step one. If the brick shirt of one of the walls goes out, for example, into the recreation room, then you just need to bring another door there. So you can kill two birds with one stone: remove the air from the steam room, and heat the dressing room (of course, if the box is installed correctly).
Step two. Box construction. This box should be made with an area of 125 cm² (+ 10%) and placed about 30 cm above the floor surface. Further, the ventilation duct should go through the wall to the ceiling and go out into the street.
Note! For the construction of the structure, you can use ready-made ventilation boxes, sheathing them with clapboard after assembly. So the products will look more natural, not differing from the general background.
About heating and ventilation
If the lower doors are open during the operation of the oven, then the air, penetrating through them, heats up and leaves the room through the upper ones (but not completely - some of it goes down and heats up again). The bottom door should be opened even before the furnace is melted to ensure its "acceleration".
At the same time, the steam room will heat up until the hot air reaches the bottom of the box, after which it starts to squeeze out the cooler one, and that, in turn, comes out and heats everything that comes in its way. This is how the steam room is ventilated and heated at the same time, and this is how proper ventilation should function.
Note! Convection doors open every time someone is in the steam room. These doors, being connected to adjacent rooms, warm them up.
As a conclusion
Few people know that by insulating a chimney in a bath, they deprive themselves of another source of heat. Of course, you shouldn't leave the red-hot chimney in a "naked" form, you need to make a brick casing around it, on the second row erecting a door-blower. And if you equip a second door on top, then a real heat pump will come out, which will both warm up and ventilate the room.
Video - DIY steam room
Greetings, dear host. You built a house, gave birth to a son, planted a tree near the house, it's time to think about your health. Yes, yes, about my health and my family. It's time to build a bathhouse!
How to build, from what materials, where to choose a place - you decide for yourself - you are the owner, and I will tell you about, probably, the most important and important part of construction - ventilation. Ideally, the calculation and organization of the ventilation system should be carried out at the construction planning stage. But in real life, many options can appear:
- the bath is being built, but the ventilation has been forgotten
- construction is over, and then they remembered
- arrangement of a steam room inside the house
Building a bathhouse without ventilation is not a rare case, you should not sprinkle ashes on your head and think that you are more stupid than others. By no means, you at least remembered, but this is already something. Air circulation adjustment is possible, even if it was not provided.
It is not advisable to rely on volley ventilation: the accumulated heat does not leave with the door open, but, according to the laws of physics, turns into steam and settles in the form of condensation on the walls and floor. Hello fungus! It is a pity, of course, because the redevelopment, and this is what it is, will cost a pretty penny. And when in the house? Is the house made of bricks?
- the air is enriched with oxygen
- optimal temperature is created
- removal of excess moisture
- removal of accumulated carbon dioxide
The diameter of the ventilation performed affects the quality of the process: a low traction force will not allow the entire system to work fully, which will nullify all the work performed, and an excessively powerful traction, on the contrary, will not allow creating an optimal temperature. Proper ventilation requires indentation:
- for supply air flow 10-30 cm from the floor
- for the top hood 20-30 cm from the ceiling
Do you need a steam room?
Yes, definitely, yes. This famous and very useful building is being erected with the main goal: improvement. The steamed skin lets the accumulated slags and dirt pass through itself, at the same time saturating the body with oxygen, but what kind of oxygen are we talking about in a tightly sealed room?
A steam room without ventilation is more like a pressure chamber with carbon dioxide, it will not take a few minutes as the unbearable heat and lack of oxygen will drive you out of the steam room. Arrange an outlet with a natural outlet, forced draft - depends on your technical and your capabilities. The main thing. The stove hood, gas, wood-fired, must have a separate overpass.
Ventilation in the steam room in the Russian bath
The Russian bath differs from the sauna in the principle of the steam room, in the way of heating and ventilation. The bathhouse was heated "in black" and "in white". In the first version, the stove was heated, the stones laid out on top of the hearth heated up, the burnt coals were raked out and carried away, the heat came from the stones, the air outflow occurred through a door or window. In the second version, the stove worked during the park, the smoke came out through the chimney, and excess heat went out through it. In a modern bath, in addition to the chimney, additional outlets are used.
There are many options: in the finished room of the steam room, connect the outlet of the vent with the existing air ducts, through other rooms, when the wiring goes inside the house, bring a separate pipe out into the street by drilling a hole in the wall.
The location of the holes varies depending on the desired result: lower hood - the temperature rises faster, higher - better air circulation.
Steam room ventilation
Supply and exhaust diameter
Basement. The steam room is ready. The only hole is the front door. Already good. We use it to organize supply ventilation. It's easier - cut a hole at the bottom of the door with a jigsaw, put blinds, a grate.
Better - in front of the door, from the side of the steam room, build a box with outlets from the sewer pipes under the stove and to the side. Use the grille with a shutter - in winter the air is colder, the room will take longer to warm up.
The air flow from under the stove rises upward, capturing heat, and additional fresh air draft will go from the chimney diverted to the side (in winter, you can tightly close the valve). Next, we cut a window to Europe. Kidding. Outside.
From the outside, we mark the approximate place where the hood should be made. Above the ground - lucky, below the level - we remove the soil, make a tunnel (so as not to miss, it is better to take it wider). A concrete wall or brickwork can be drilled with a special tool. It is unlikely that it is not found with a specialist.
As an option - a tool for rent. You go to the Internet, open sites specializing in such a service, place an order. But you and I are simple people, we will break through. A hammer drill is not a rare thing, I have it, I think you will also find it.
We go down again to the basement. I managed to sheathe the walls - nothing, let's remove the sheathing. On the bare wall, mark with a marker where the pipe exits. Be careful when choosing a diameter! Above, I have already given the calculation formula. You can take a piece of pipe and circle it around. Mute stepping back along the perimeter of the circle (the hole in the end should be slightly larger than the diameter of the pipe), a through hole is drilled with a puncher, after 2-3 cm the next, and so on in a circle.
You break the formed bridges with a chisel - that's it, the opening is ready. You take out the remnants of the wall, trim the edges and walls of the tunnel, try to move the pipe. Happened? Cool. No - pay attention to what is in the way, shoot down too much.
When the wall is made of timber, the cut-out technology of the opening is according to the same principle as on brickwork, with a small difference: instead of a chisel, a jigsaw is taken. Sewer pipes are not suitable for the exhaust pipe; galvanizing is required.
We insert a segment into the opening, fill the voids with insulation (glass wool, mineral wool), sew up the walls with wood. The gap between the casing and the pipe must be foamed. We make a box. It is needed to regulate the degree and height of the room warming up. The thickness of the box corresponds to the diameter of the pipe to which it is connected, the length depends on the height of the steam room. Two windows are cut out on the box, which are equipped with a blind latch. One window is located approximately twenty cm from the ceiling, the lower one is 50-60 cm from the floor.
When the stove is flooded, both exhaust dampers in the steam room are closed, as a result, the lower one opens first, and then, if necessary, the upper one. So you can easily adjust the temperature right during the procedure.
Using the built-in fan will improve the outflow of hot air from the room. Do not forget about the grilles at the outlet of the duct to avoid the ingress of dry leaves and other debris. By the way, it is necessary to clean the hood at least once a year.
Bastu became widespread. The system has taken root due to its ease of installation and efficient heat distribution. Only now it is better to mount it initially, at the construction stage. The above diagram and the device for circulating air flows is fundamentally different from the ones I described earlier in this article.
The bastu principle is an inverted glass. As you can see, both the supply air duct and the discharge air duct are practically at the same height - just above the floor level.
The lower pipe, through which air enters the steam room, originates from the street, the outlet is located behind the stove - in fact, this is the draft. The heated air outlet is located strictly diagonally from the stove, located below the bench. Warm air from the stove rises up, creates increased pressure under the ceiling, and cools down a little in the opposite corner and, falling, enters the ventilation.
The main difference is the approximately the same air temperature along the height of the room, while in the Russian bath the upper bench is hotter, and the lower one is more comfortable.
When the heated air masses rush to the lowest point of the hood, they will take with them the heavy, moist air and dry the floors faster.
The downside here is the dependence of effective work on the strength of the wind outside, when the air blown into the chimney interferes with the natural outflow, moreover, it can reverse it. Then the steam room will be filled with the smell of burnt fuel, which will not allow you to get the proper result from the procedures.
Useful video about ventilation in the steam room
Ventilation of the floor in the bath is an urgent need. Constant dampness of the flooring will inevitably lead to decay of the material, even with a concrete base. And floors with areas of rot, mold, fungi become a source of various infections and unpleasant odors. And the durability of such an element will be short. To make the floor ventilation in a bathhouse means to increase its service life without repair, to exclude unhealthy effects on the human body and to ensure the comfort of the bath procedure.
Rot on the floor in the bath indicates a lack of ventilation.
Features of the problem
The bath floor is in extreme conditions. Active moistening of the material goes both from below (from the side of the ground) and from above during the operation of the institution. Particularly difficult conditions are created in the steam room, where saturated heated water vapor, in contact with the floor covering, cools and condenses. The resulting water penetrates into the material, creating a favorable environment for various harmful organisms. The destructive process is accelerated by the increased temperature, which at the floor surface can be 30-40 degrees.
The conditions in the washing section are not much better. Here, streams of water (both warm and cold) pour onto the floor from showers and various irrigation containers. Moreover, the water is mixed with detergents, which increases the aggressiveness of the action.
A more favorable environment arises in the dressing room and the rest room. However, in these rooms, one should not discount the possibility of steam penetration from the steam room through an open door, as well as moisture from wet feet.
Ventilation of the floor in the sauna prevents the appearance of fungus and rot, and also draws out excess steam From the side of the soil, moisture is caused by natural conditions. The most dangerous are the presence of high-lying groundwater and a rise in the water level during prolonged precipitation, snow melting and flood situations. In principle, drainage systems and layers of waterproofing in the floor structure are intended to protect against the effects of this moisture, but they also cannot completely exclude the penetration of moisture from below.
nuance! Do-it-yourself ventilation of floors in a bath is considered an effective way to deal with the problem of dampness.
Providing an inflow of fresh air, it speeds up the drying of the material between baths. It does not allow condensate to accumulate on the surface, does not allow microorganisms to actively develop, and removes polluted air from the room.
Ventilation principles
Ventilation of the floor in bath rooms can be carried out using various methods. One of the most important elements of the system is the creation of ventilation spaces in the floor structure, which eliminates the accumulation of moisture inside, between the layers. The basic system can be based on several characteristic designs: ventilation under the floor in the bath, general ventilation of the bath room, blowing with warm air.
Structurally, any ventilation in the room should include an inlet for fresh air mass and an outlet for polluted air. For this, all bath rooms are equipped with inlet and outlet ventilation openings (vents). In addition, if necessary, air ducts (air ducts), dampers, protective grilles are mounted, providing air supply at the right time and in the right direction.
By the nature of the provision of air flow, this process can be natural and artificial (forced). The first option is considered classic, in which the movement of the air flow occurs spontaneously in accordance with the laws of convection, i.e. as a result of a temperature or pressure gradient. When there is such ventilation of the floor in the bath, the flow pattern has a characteristic form (Fig. 1).
Nuance! In a natural design, the inlet vent should be located as low as possible (under or near the floor).
The air, heating up, will rise up, and this is where the outlet should be located. Ventilation of the floor in the bath through the attic is not recommended, i.e. through a vent in the ceiling. A closed space is formed in the attic, where all harmful secretions gradually accumulate, which can then return to the bath through the hole, but already in a concentrated state.
Figure 1. Natural ventilation occurs due to the difference in air pressure in the steam room Forced ventilation of the bath floor is based on the use of special equipment that creates an adjustable air flow in the required direction. It is possible to use such types of artificial ventilation:
- Exhaust type: the inflow of fresh air from the outside occurs naturally, and the outlet vent is provided by an exhaust fan, which forcibly draws out the spent air mass.
- Inlet type: forced supply of fresh air is carried out using an inlet air fan, while its removal from the bath room goes naturally through a corresponding vent.
- The supply and exhaust type combines the listed technologies, combining forced air supply and outflow.
- The general exchange system is a sophisticated version of the previous ventilation. A unified air circulation scheme is created using air ducts, which makes it possible to control the volume, direction and speed of air flow.
There is a variant of exhaust ventilation through the floor in the bath to the outside System design features
When arranging floor ventilation, a number of specific conditions must be taken into account. The efficiency and comfort of the system is due to the fulfillment of the following requirements:
- preventing the floor from cooling during the bath procedure, it is especially important to ensure that there are no drafts (should not pull on the legs);
- the volume of air mass must be sufficient to perform the assigned tasks;
- fast, optimal drying should be ensured, especially in the presence of wooden floors, when dampness is unacceptable, but excessive drying, which can cause cracking of the wood, is also bad;
- the arrangement of ventilation should be carried out at the construction stage of the bath, when vents of the desired shape and size are created, pipes are laid, distribution channels (gaps) are formed.
When supplying ventilation through the floor, it is necessary that cold air does not pull along the floor. The quality and characteristics of ventilation depend primarily on the location of the vents. When choosing a place for them, it is necessary to take into account climatic conditions (humidity and air temperature), wind conditions ("wind rose"), the landscape of the site, the presence of polluting sources, as well as internal factors - the type and location of the stove, the design of the doors, the presence of windows and vents.
Most often, the floor ventilation inlet is located at the following locations, at 3 different levels:
- lowest level: in the foundation or under the floor;
- directly under the stove or at the level of its base;
- in the wall at a height of 35-45 cm from the floor (best behind the stove).
The most common options
Most often, when organizing floor ventilation in a bath, the following fairly simple solutions are used:
- Ventilation of the bathhouse under the floor can be done by creating an air draft under the floor covering. To do this, the inlet is equipped below the level of the upper deck, and the deck itself is raised above the subfloor by 3-5 cm. A gap of 10-15 mm is left between the planks.
- Ventilation according to the Basta system. The air flow is provided under the oven, while the outlet is located on the opposite side. Under the floor, the air mass is directed through a box lined with aluminum foil. The size of such an air duct corresponds to the size of the chimney duct. Thus, hot ventilation of the floor in the bath is provided.
- Ventilation riser. This system is often used in a washroom. In this case, an asbestos pipe is installed, which is led outside the sauna roof, which creates a good air draft. Such a riser is usually equipped with a deflector.
Ventilation according to the Basta system in the steam room Underfloor system features
Ventilation installed under the bath floor has a number of advantages. Besides the fact that it helps to eliminate condensation and ensure drying of the floor covering, the air flow hidden below cannot cause drafts, which means that the system can be used during the bath procedure.
For efficient ventilation under the floor, it is important to properly equip the drainage system, i.e. constantly remove waste water outside the bath. Ventilation is provided by arranging 2 holes in the foundation. They are located on opposite walls, but not directly opposite each other. In general, the option is considered optimal when the air flow passes along a difficult path, covering the largest possible area. The vents are equipped with dampers that allow you to adjust the fresh air supply time and flow rate. One of the types of outlet vents should be distinguished - a vertical hole through the entire thickness of the foundation to the ground. Through such a channel, moisture drainage is also provided.
The ventilation duct under the floor is formed by bridges (logs), which are usually used as a timber measuring 6-8 x 10-15 cm. These logs are mounted on a concrete screed, made with a slope to drain the drain. The boardwalk is laid on top of the logs, and the boards are fastened with a gap, which ensures a free outflow of water. Valves on vents are opened taking into account the outside air temperature. In summer they can be open all the time, but in winter, active ventilation should be carried out only when there are no people in the steam room.
Arrangement of warm floors
One of the most comfortable and effective options is to make the heated floor in the sauna ventilation. To solve this problem, it is necessary to direct heated air into the ventilation ducts. In bathing conditions, it can be obtained using a stove. You can use a two-piece pipe, which will provide ventilation for both rooms and underground. This pipe is directed through the sauna stove, and the air flow is divided in 2 directions: into the steam room and under the floor. It is desirable to provide such a system with a forced draft.
In the locker room of the bath, you can build a heated floor with ventilation advice! Underfloor heating with hot air ventilation must be well insulated from the ground surface to reduce the cooling of the channel from the soil water (especially in winter).
For this, waterproofing and an effective thermal insulation layer are laid. In the system under consideration, the external flooring is applied with a tight fit of the boards to each other, without a gap. The outlet of the system is combined with the chimney, which increases the draft. The inlet and outlet openings are equipped with valves.
Ventilation of the floor in the bath is considered an important element of its arrangement, which helps prevent decay of the material and increase the service life of the entire structure. With the help of ventilation, it is possible to provide warm floors, which will increase the comfort of bath procedures. The ventilation bath system can be provided with your own hands, but for this it is necessary to take into account the specific requirements and recommendations of specialists.