Each spring planting season starts at all sites. It begins as soon as the snow melts, and ends by the end of May. There are gardeners who have coped with fruit trees and shrubs in the fall. But how correct is this and when is it better to plant - in spring or autumn?
Purely theoretically - you can plant a bush at any time of the year, there is even a concept winter planting conifers and decorative trees... The most important thing for a freshly planted bush is good and tight contact of the root system with the ground. If the roots do not come into contact with the soil, then the plant will not be able to replenish the moisture evaporated by the crown.
V winter period It is difficult to ensure high-quality contact of the roots with the ground, since the ground is frozen, and the plant absorbs moisture even in hibernation. Preparation for winter is carried out in summer, the process is complex and time consuming, therefore disembarkation is carried out only when necessary, for example, this method is suitable for high (up to 14 meters!) spruce.
In summer, increased moisture evaporation is a problem. This disadvantage can be eliminated by frequent abundant watering, but, again, this process is quite time consuming. Thus, landing can be done all year round if provide proper care... But why add unnecessary complications if everything can be done during favorable periods - in spring and autumn?
The best time to plant
The optimal time is a period of physiological dormancy, when the trees are in hibernation, waiting favorable conditions for vegetation. The dormant period begins as soon as the foliage falls off, and ends when the buds begin to open. They don't care when they are sent to prison. But there are factors that are important to the gardener. Let's consider them.
Pluses of autumn:
- a large selection of planting material on the market;
- sufficient one watering, the lack of moisture will make up for the rains;
- if the winter is mild, the culture will begin to recover and grow new roots;
- any gardener has a lot of worries, autumn planting will free up time in a hot period.
Cons of autumn:
- a cold and snowy winter can kill a tender and vulnerable seedling;
- rodents are also dangerous to young crops;
- if the garden is left unattended, the newly planted trees can be stolen.
Spring pluses:
- in winter there is enough time to make a plan, to prepare theoretically;
- in winter, you can prepare a tool and dig holes;
- you don't have to worry that the seedlings will be stolen;
- trees get more vegetation for a year.
Minuses spring planting:
- watering must be done at least twice - after the procedure and the next day, and if the weather is hot, then the trunk will have to be watered frequently;
- if you are late, then the seedling is difficult to leave;
- there is less choice on the market than in the fall.
Thus, you can perform the procedure whenever you want. Each gardener decides for himself when it will be more convenient for him.
Costs take into account local climatic conditions ... V southern regions the procedure is best done in the fall. Autumn is long and warm, and spring is too short and hot. In the north, due to the harsh winter, spring is preferred. If you did not have time to plant a bush in March – April, put it off until fall.
Spring procedure rules
For successful landing a whole a set of rules so that the tree can quickly recover and begin to build up an active root system, took root, began to receive the necessary trace elements and water for the successful development of the crown. To do this, you need to pay attention to 3 aspects: seedling quality, technology and optimal time.
The rules for choosing seedlings:
- It is better to buy a seedling in a large company or a specialized horticultural enterprise in order to get advice if necessary.
- The tree should have a label with the name of the breed and variety.
- The seedling should be beautiful and even, without a skewed crown, curved trunk, uneven growth of branches. It must have at least 3 skeletal branches.
- There must be no signs of disease or damage.
- If a container is present, the roots should not grow through the drain hole.
- The earthen ball should be proportional to the crown and dense.
- There should be no signs of disease on the root system, the roots should not be damaged or overdried.
- The foliage on the seedling must be removed.
Choosing the time
The best time to plant seedlings with a closed root system, in containers or with an earthen clod, end of May - beginning of June. At this time, active root growth occurs. Saplings with closed roots take root better than saplings with bare roots, as serious root damage is unlikely.
Plants with an open root system it is recommended to plant when they are at rest, the buds have not swollen or started to grow. This period begins approximately in late April - early May.
Saplings with bare roots must be planted immediately after purchase. If this is not possible, then the seedling should be laid in a small hole at an angle and the roots should be covered with earth. Choose a shaded place.
Conifers purchased exclusively with closed root systems. They tolerate transplanting worse, so it is recommended to do this early, in March – april.
The spring procedure period is short. As soon as the ground warms up, plants can be planted, but exactly until the moment when buds begin to grow. This period is only 3 weeks and falls depending on the latitude in April – May. If you have not had time to purchase seedlings, postpone the garden renewal until the fall.
Require exactly spring planting heat-loving plants- plum, apricot, cherry, sweet cherry, cherry plum, not winter-hardy varieties of apple and pear.
Process
Correctly perfect, it has a positive effect on the survival rate of seedlings. Consists of ten stages:
It is more convenient to land in pairs. The first person will hold the seedling and carefully spread the roots along the mound, and the other will fill the hole starting from the edges and carefully compact the ground with his foot. For prevent voids formation between the roots, the seedling must be shaken. When finished, add a roll of earth to the edges of the pit.
Finally, a few more tips regarding correct fit fruit crops in the spring.
Spring is the most popular period of time for gardeners to plant vegetation. It is in the spring that most plants are planted in open ground: from herbaceous annuals to tree and shrub species.
What age trees and shrubs can be planted in spring
In the spring, young plants are usually planted and transplanted. As a rule, these are seedlings aged 1-3 years. There is an opinion that the younger the seedling is, the faster it takes root.
If you intend to plant mature trees up to 2 m in height on your site, then keep in mind that slow-growing breeds, which are 12-20 years old, are most easily transplanted.
Fast growing species can be replanted up to 10 years, and fruit trees up to 8-16 years, depending on the species. For shrubs, the age limit for transplanting also depends on the specific species.
As for large-sized ones from 2 m and above, then the best time for their transplant - frosty winter days. In winter, the ground is frozen and the earthen lump of a tree does not crumble during digging, which makes it possible to transplant a large size without significant damage to the root system.
Laying a new garden
Let's say you are going to plant a new garden and have already purchased seedlings. You have a plan (scheme) for planting, you know which plants, where to plant, how to arrange them relative to each other and relative to the sun. The last question remains: "When will it be possible to plant them in the ground?"
There are some differences in planting deciduous and conifers... In addition, the planting time also depends on which seedlings you purchased - with a closed or open root system.
Planting hardwood
For seedlings with a closed root system, purchased in containers or simply with an earthen clod, there is no strict time frame for planting. They can be planted from spring to autumn. The main thing is to provide them with proper care in the first time after landing.
However, the most optimal time for planting plants with a closed root system is late May - early June, when root growth is characterized by increased activity. By the way, they take root better than seedlings with bare roots, because in this case, root damage is practically excluded.
Plants with an open root system can be planted while they are at a relatively dormant stage, i.e. the kidneys have not yet swollen and have not started to grow. In time, this is approximately the end of April - the beginning of May. If planting is carried out in the fall, then only after the trees have thrown off the foliage and nature begins to fall asleep.
It is advisable to plant seedlings with bare roots immediately after purchase. If it is necessary to postpone this event for a while, then you can temporarily bury them in some shaded place: put them in a shallow hole under slight angle and cover the roots thoroughly with soil.
Planting conifers
Conifers and evergreens tolerate transplanting worse than deciduous trees. Therefore, it is recommended to start planting them at an earlier date, a little earlier than deciduous ones.
Conifers and shrubs should only be replanted with a closed root system. Be careful not to buy coniferous seedlings with bare roots, without an earthen coma.
In addition, it is safer to buy those seedlings that were originally grown in containers, rather than transplanted into them shortly before sale.
If coniferous seedlings are grown in open ground then they are transplanted into a container for subsequent transportation and sale. And in the process of all these actions, any mistakes can be made, which subsequently, after planting the plants in a permanent place, can lead to certain problems. Especially if transportation is provided for many kilometers from the excavation site.
It is possible to reduce the degree of risk by direct transplanting of conifers directly from soil to soil, and in shortest time... The most optimal time for digging out coniferous seedlings from the ground is the period before the beginning of the growing season, i.e. in early spring... And the sooner you plant them in a permanent place, the more likely the plants will successfully take root.
What else affects the disembarkation time
If in your region there are severe winters with little snow or on your site there is clay, highly compacted soil, then in this case, it is the spring planting of trees and shrubs that is recommended.
Since if planted in the fall, there is a risk that the plants will not have time to take root before winter. Moreover, thermophilic rocks should be planted only after the late spring frosts have passed.
When to cook pits
Pits and soil for planting trees and shrubs can be prepared in advance, 2-3 weeks in advance. But it is best to cook them in the fall, especially if the soil on your site is not light, i.e. clayey or loamy.
To do this, dig holes of the required size, the dug earth, if necessary, is mixed with sand and poured back into the holes. Over the winter, the soil in the pit will settle just before the right level... In late autumn, they bring into the pits organic fertilizers, and in the spring they loosen the soil and bring mineral fertilizers.
The spring planting period is short
It is not worth delaying the planting of trees and shrubs in spring, because the time for its implementation is very limited. As soon as the ground thaws, the plants can be planted in the ground. But only until the moment when the active growth of the kidneys begins. And this period lasts only about 3 weeks and in temperate latitudes in time it falls on mid-April - early May.
Well, if you are suddenly late with the spring planting, do not worry, most plants can be planted both in spring and autumn. And, by the way, in the fall, the period of possible disembarkation lasts much longer - 1.5-2 months.
Landing fruit trees is usually an integral part of the design of the area around country house even for people far from gardening. As for vegetable gardens, a rare allotment does without an apple or cherry. Some of them invite specialists to lay a garden, but if you wish, it is quite possible to cope with this on your own.
Optimal timing
In theory, planting seedlings is possible at any time. summer season... If everything is done correctly, then the tree will take root and begin to grow. But in order to reduce the risks of death, in order to avoid a long illness, it is advisable to adhere to the generally accepted landing dates: early spring and autumn.
The main principle is to carry out all the manipulations during the absence of active vegetation, when the seedling is still in hibernation or preparing for it. In the spring, planting is carried out before the buds swell (when the "green cone" has not yet appeared). In autumn, you should wait for the leaves to fall.
Spring disembarkation is recommended for the northern regions, because short autumn root system young tree will not have time to "grab" the soil, which often becomes the cause of freezing. , and the peach take root better precisely during spring planting (until mid-April), regardless of geographical location.
In southern arid regions, fruit trees are preferable to plant in autumn (October, November). The long rainy off-season gives them the opportunity to root well, and the seedlings survive the winter safely.
Principles of placing seedlings on the site
When choosing seedlings of fruit trees, you should have a good idea of the scheme of their placement. It is possible to plant a whole collection in a limited area, but after 3-5 years the garden will be in disarray - the trees will begin to interfere with each other, diseases will actively spread. Since it is the side branches that actively bear fruit, it is necessary to observe optimal distance between the seedlings. It usually equals the height of a mature tree.
When planting trees within the framework of a land allotment in horticulture, you should also take into account the regulated legislative regulations(SNiP 30-02-97, SNiP 30-102-99) distance from neighbor's fence: for tall (over 15 m) - 4 m, for medium-sized (this group includes the majority fruit species) - 2 m.If underground utilities are laid on the site ( power cable, water supply), then the trees should be planted 2 m away from them, since the developing roots can damage them.
The correct layout of the future garden will not only greatly simplify the care of it, but will also help to avoid further problems with neighbors due to the shading of their site and the spread of roots.
Selection of seedlings
Fruit tree seedlings can be purchased from specialized shops or nurseries. It is advisable to decide in advance not only with the varieties of future inhabitants of the garden, but also with their varieties. You need to choose those that grow well and bear fruit in this particular region - zoned. A good nursery will offer quality planting material, but you should still familiarize yourself with the main criteria for the selection of seedlings before buying.
For those who intend to seriously independently engage in the garden, it is useful to know some of the terms that sellers often use when describing varieties of fruit trees.
- Rootstock - roots and the lower part of the seedling trunk.
- Graft - cuttings and buds engrafted on the trunk of another tree (rootstock).
- Cambium - thin layer active cells of the stem, located between the subcortex (bast) and wood, is responsible for the survival rate of the scion.
- The root collar is not the place of grafting (it is 8-10 cm higher), but the area where the root part of the seedling passes into the trunk. If the fruit tree is rooted by a cuttings, then the grafting is absent.
Knowing what the above concepts mean, it is easier to communicate with the seller and navigate the range of planting material.
It is worth remembering the signs by which you should choose seedlings.
- The optimal age is 1.5-2 years. Better to take with a crown of 2-3 branches.
- The height of the seedling is 120-140 cm, the trunk in diameter is no more than 12-15 mm.
- The root system of the stock should be well developed (4 large branches), fibrous (there is no central chopped root directed downward), not overdried, without obvious breaks and other damage. The length of the roots is from 25 to 30 cm. The rootstock should not have branches.
- The graft is ripe, elastic.
- The trunk and branches of a healthy seedling are even, without potholes, sagging, spots and traces of pests.
Particular attention is paid to the rootstock, since it depends on its type appearance crowns, drought resistance of the tree, the timing of the onset of fruiting. Seed rootstocks are more vigorous and resistant to drought. Dwarf ones begin to bear fruit faster, and with higher ones there is a greater yield, although it appears 3-4 years later.
Pit preparation
The fruit tree assimilates nutrients at a depth of 10 to 80 cm, therefore, preparation of the soil for the seedling is required in this range. Not all gardeners can boast of fertile soil, usually you have to make extra efforts when digging a hole:
- loosen the walls, if the soil is clayey and dense, equip drainage from rubble or expanded clay;
- to compact the soil and create conditions for retaining moisture at the bottom of a pit dug on sandstones (clay or silt is used for this);
- with a high location of groundwater, it will be necessary to fill a hill with a height of about 1.5 m;
- apply fertilizers.
The pit for seedlings of pome fruit trees should be about 1 m wide and 60-70 cm deep. For stone fruits, the width is from 0.8 to 1.2 m, and the depth is from 50 to 60 cm.
Pit parameters depending on the type of rootstock for the most popular garden dwellers - apple trees (diameter x depth, cm):
- for a strong-growing person - 100-125 x 60;
- for semi-dwarf - 100 x 50;
- for a dwarf (paradise) - 90 x 40.
When digging holes for fruit trees, it should be borne in mind that the topsoil is fertile, it is laid aside, subsequently mixed with compost or rotted manure-powder (15-20 kg). If the soil is clay, then add 5-10 kg of sand.
Additional fertilizers are applied to the pit depending on the timing of planting. If the garden is laid out in the spring, then mineral supplements are appropriate. It is better to use balanced complexes designed specifically for fruit trees (, "Fructus"). Application proportion: 30 g per 1 m 2. In June, feeding of seedlings is repeated. For autumn planting, potassium and phosphorus can be added.
When the pit is ready, the prepared mixture is poured into the bottom with a mound, and a layer of black soil without fertilizers is additionally laid on it. Top part the embankment should almost reach the edge of the pit. This is the base on which the root system of the seedling will be located. If there is no mound, then the water accumulating at the bottom of the pit can lead to rotting of the roots.
Then the soil must be allowed time to shrink. For spring planting of fruit trees, pits are usually prepared in the fall. For autumn, it is enough if the pit is left to stand for 2-3 weeks.
For fixation, a stake is driven into the hole at a distance of about 10 cm from the location of the seedling and protrudes about 40 cm above the surface.Gardeners usually know from which side of their plot they are blowing strong winds, the support must be installed there. It is good if there are 2 or 3 pegs - in this way the tree is guaranteed to maintain its "posture". Many people drive a support directly into the center of the pit, tying the seedling to it with a "figure-eight" loop.
Preparation of seedlings
When examining the planting material, it is necessary to cut off all incapacitated roots (black, dried, soaked). To improve the survival rate of a seedling, it is advisable to immerse its root system in a solution of mullein and humus a day before planting. This procedure will revitalize and activate the suction function.
If a seedling is purchased in a container, then its survival rate is much better, since the tree does not spend energy on restoring the root system. Such material is more expensive, but it can be planted at any time of the season without the risk of death.
If there is growth in the stock area, then it is carefully cut off near the trunk. Henceforth, its appearance and development should not be allowed. All unnecessary branches of the crown are also removed (it is optimal to leave 3 main ones). After drying, the wounds are covered with garden varnish.
Landing technique
The root system of the seedling is neatly placed on the sides of the mound at the bottom of the hole. Then a step-by-step backfilling is carried out with soil, which is periodically compacted at the edges in order to minimize the shrinkage of the tree.
Basic landing rules:
- the root collar should be at the level of the soil;
- the grafting site (a stump on the side of the trunk) rises 5 cm above the ground surface;
- usually the grafting is oriented to the north, the rootstock stump to the south.
The level of the soil surface is easy to determine by placing a shovel handle across the pit.
After fixing, a small side of the ground is made around the seedling so that the water does not spread during watering. For post-planting irrigation, about 2-3 buckets are consumed, but if the soil is clayey, then one is enough. The soil is spilled gradually until it no longer absorbs moisture. Then trunk circle a young tree is mulched. Usually 5-7 cm of peat or humus is poured. An important point: the area within a radius of 3-5 cm from the trunk of the seedling is not covered with mulch.
Hill landing
If groundwater on the site are located close to the surface, then fruit trees it is better to plant not in a hole, but on a hill. In this case, the sequence of actions is as follows.
- A stake about 1.5 m long and 5-6 cm in diameter is driven into the center of the place chosen for planting.
- Around the stake in a radius corresponding to the width of the pit under certain type fruit tree, the soil is dug to a depth of about 20 cm.
- Compost or bulk manure is distributed over the dug area at the rate of 8 kg per 1 m 2.
- The seedling is placed next to the stake, neatly attached to it with a "figure eight". The roots are straightened and densely covered with a layer of nutritious soil mixture. It turns out a small mound, which is surrounded by turf.
As the tree grows, it is necessary to periodically add earth, increasing the trunk circle.
Protection and care
The first thing a young tree needs soon after planting is position correction (if necessary) and watering. The latter is especially true if the season is dry and the soil is sandy. The root system should not be deficient in moisture.
If the planting was carried out in the spring, then it is enough to whitewash the trunk in order to protect it from burns and pests.
And for the winter, seedlings need additional protection:
- the tree is tied special material, while the side branches are gently attracted to the main ones;
- the trunk is covered with soil by 30-40 cm (in the spring the mound is raked up);
- a layer of mesh or a piece of roofing material is wrapped on the lower part of the seedling, if hares or rodents hunt on the site in winter.
In the spring, all the shelters are removed, the whitewash is renewed, antifungal agents are sprayed, mineral fertilizers are applied to stimulate growth.
If the planting technique is followed, then from one seedling a fruitful fruit tree can be obtained, which will actively grow and develop from year to year with proper care. And in cases where planting material is purchased in a large number and is planted without planning, the fruits will subsequently be less and less due to the competition of trees for sunlight and food. Also, the constant companions of the garden will be different kinds diseases arising from poor ventilation and lack of illumination.
Working with fruit trees is quite exciting and is so addictive for many gardeners that they independently graft the varieties they like onto the existing species. Thus, you can get several varieties of apples or plums on one rootstock, significantly saving the area of the site and funds for seedlings.
Every gardener wants to see his garden healthy, beautiful and abundantly fruitful. Pledge good growth, lush flowering and harvesting is the correct planting of fruit trees in the spring.
Unfortunately, the owner of the site does not always take this procedure responsibly, choosing the first available place for the tree, somehow organizing a planting hole or placing seedlings too often, not taking into account their growth. Wait for early fruiting and good harvest in this case it is not necessary. How and when to plant fruit tree seedlings in spring? Are there any secrets that allow plants to take root faster and start growing?
Dates of planting seedlings of fruit trees in spring
First of all, it is worth clarifying the timing of planting. In the literature, it is often indicated that autumn planting is preferable for tree seedlings, however, it should be borne in mind that this recommendation applies to the southern regions.
In the conditions of a long warm autumn, winter-hardy trees and shrubs have time to acclimatize and take root, tolerating winter well enough and starting to grow from early spring. The farther north is garden plot, the greater the risk of tree freezing.
Therefore, in the northern regions, the planting of fruit trees in the spring is more often undertaken. At the same time, it is possible to preserve seedlings of even the most thermophilic crops, and also successfully transfer plants with an open root system into the ground. True, this landing has one peculiarity. It should be carried out as early as possible so that the seedling meets the beginning of the growing season in the soil at its permanent place of residence. Still "sleeping" trees are not sensitive to active sun and possible frost.
When to plant fruit trees and shrubs on which foliage has already appeared in the spring? Indeed, today at spring sales you can buy planting material with already opened buds and even leaves. Such shrubs and trees cannot wait. But it's best to drop them off:
- with the onset of stable heat, when there is no danger of frostbite of the shoots and root system, especially at night;
- in cloudy weather, when there is less risk sunburn buds and foliage, not accustomed to direct sun.
The specific dates for planting fruit trees and shrub seedlings in spring depend on the climatic and weather characteristics of the region, the composition of the soil and the location of the site. As a rule, snow melting is less active in lowlands, the soil dries out worse, which delays planting.
Whatever the time for planting seedlings of fruit trees in the spring, preparations for work begin in the fall, choosing in advance a place for plants and preparing planting holes.
Planting scheme for fruit trees and shrubs on the site
When looking for a place for a future orchard, you need to remember that for plants it is extremely important not only soil fertility, but also lighting. For young plants, the site is selected so that the seedlings are exposed to light for at least half a day. At the same time, protection from the cold wind must be provided for immature trees.
For early acclimatization, it is advised to plant fruit plants the way they grew up in the nursery. It is possible to determine the orientation of the tree to the cardinal points, starting from the age of two along the length of the lateral shoots. On the south side, they are usually better developed than on the north.
But how to plant a seedling of a fruit tree in the spring if a three-year-old or older plant with an asymmetric crown was brought from the nursery? In this case, it is more useful to deploy it so that the short branches face south. After a couple of years, taking into account corrective pruning, the crown will become uniform and correct.
When mastering a new site, novice summer residents often make a serious mistake. When planting fruit trees in spring, they do not take into account that the height, width of the crown and the features of agricultural technology in the planted species can be very different. The young garden looks well-groomed and grows amicably, but after a few years it is discovered that a large pear has completely overshadowed the undersized ones, and berry bushes are not visible under the cherry crowns.
Even at the planning stage, the exact layout of the trees is determined. The health of the plants and the harvest they bring will subsequently depend on this plan.
How to determine when landing minimum distance between fruit trees?
When measuring the distance between seedlings, they are guided by the total value of the height of neighboring adult trees. For example, a fruiting cherry reaches a height of three meters, which means that there should be at least six meters between neighboring trees of the same species and variety. This will create all the conditions for development, as a result:
- the crowns of grown trees will not overlap or shade each other;
- nothing will interfere with the pollination of flowering trees, the growth and pouring of fruits;
- it is much easier to care for the crop and harvest.
In addition, with such a planting of fruit trees and shrubs on the site, the risk of infection of the garden with fungal infections and insect damage is seriously reduced.
How to plant fruit tree seedlings in spring?
It is not enough to purchase high-quality planting material. Any seedling can die if preparation for planting was carried out "slipshod". The planting of fruit trees planned for the spring suggests that the holes for them will be laid in the fall. If this cannot be done, and the summer resident takes a shovel in the spring, then at least two weeks should pass from the moment the hole is laid until the roots of the tree fall into it.
Two- or three-year-olds, pears, plums and other stone fruits differ little in size, so a hole is dug under them at least 80 cm in diameter and the same depth. When planting a plant with a closed root system, it is convenient to focus on the size of the container, making the hole 15–20 cm wider and deeper.
To garter a new gardener, a solid support is immediately driven into the bottom of the pit, which will help the plant maintain verticality in the coming years.
Oddly enough, caring for a fruit tree does not begin after planting, but before it with fertilizing and preparing the soil into which the seedling will fall. In the fall, fresh manure can be brought into the pit, which will crush over the winter and will not have a burning effect on the roots of the tree. If the soil on the site is too acidic, it is lime or mixed with dolomite flour... If necessary, excessively dense soil is mixed with sand, and fertile black soil is added to the sandy loam.
H So that during planting in the spring the seedling of the fruit tree does not come into contact with the introduced manure or granular agents, a layer of fertilizer is sprinkled with a small amount of fertile soil.
How are fruit trees planted in prepared pits in spring? Step by step execution:
- The roots of plants with an open root system are straightened, if necessary, they are soaked overnight to restore the tone to the wilted areas.
- On a cone of fertile soil, the seedling is installed so that the roots are freely located in the hole, and the root collar is five centimeters above the soil surface. You can check the correct installation of the seedling with a shovel.
- The tree is sprinkled with soil, avoiding voids between the roots and under the trunk.
Planting a seedling with a closed root system is much easier. You just need to put a moistened earthen lump in the hole, check the level of the neck and sprinkle the voids with a substrate. At the end of the procedure, young trees and shrubs must be watered.
A video about planting seedlings of fruit trees in spring will help you to independently understand the intricacies of the process. Careful attention to the needs of the plant and careful preparation will ensure that the theoretical knowledge gained will be useful in practice.
Planting rules for seedlings - video
If you dream about flowering trees in the spring and a rich harvest in the fall (which, however, will have to wait a couple of years), then planning a wonderful orchard it is worth starting by studying the rules for choosing and the nuances of planting fruit trees. Today Elena Mironova, the leading designer of the Bastet studio, will talk about the most important, in her opinion, moments.
General director and leading designer of the Bastet studio. Studied interior design at the International School of Design. Has been designing premises for over 10 years. Considers work as a calling. Loves non-standard, complex tasks that require full dedication and concentration.
Should I plant in spring?
It's no secret that spring, like autumn, is a traditional time for planting. However, the opinions of gardeners about when is the best time to plant fruit trees are divided: some argue that the optimal planting time is autumn, while others - that spring.
Of course, both options are possible if the most important condition is met: the seedlings must be in hibernation (as you know, the hibernation period in plants lasts from the moment the leaves fall until the buds open).
But still, for Central Russia with its cold winters, it is preferable spring planting... In her favor is the fact that young trees are much less likely to freeze, unlike those planted in the fall, and the fact that in spring young seedlings are not such a tasty prey for rodents as during the first autumn frosts and snowfalls, and the fact that trees planted in spring will have more time for growth and development for a whole warm season.
Of course, are available at the spring planting and minuses: a rigid upper time limit (if a seedling is planted too late, it will be problematic to leave it) and frequent, in contrast to the autumn, watering. However, when choosing a planting time, there is one simple rule: the further north your site is, the more arguments in favor of spring planting and vice versa.
It is necessary to plant exclusively in the spring heat-loving plants, such as: cherry, plum, sweet cherry, apricot, cherry plum, not winter hardy varieties pears.
As practice shows, seedlings with closed root system(with a voluminous lump of earth): gardeners are less likely to damage the roots when planting, and such plants can be planted until mid-June. Saplings with open root system on the contrary, it is necessary to plant strictly before the buds swell and do not put off much - it is better in general immediately, as it was acquired, so that the tree does not have time to dry out.
Planting fruit trees in spring: where to get seedlings?
This is the second, if not the first question that arises.
Alas, the choice of seedlings in large nurseries - both in terms of varieties and quality - is more extensive in the fall. In the spring, nurseries mainly sell out autumn leftovers, which means that the likelihood of choosing a strong and healthy tree, and the desired variety, is significantly reduced. But do not be discouraged. If the idea of setting up a garden of fruit trees did not come to you suddenly (you were carrying it for a long time), then you can buy planting material in the fall or even agree in the nursery so that the staff will reserve trees of the necessary varieties for you for the spring.
But in large garden hypermarkets, it is better not to take seedlings. Alas, in such places everything is focused on the number of sales, and often at the time of purchase, plants that seemed healthy (but in fact were simply overfed with fertilizers) begin to wither and die before our very eyes.
What to look for when buying?
If you do choose seedlings yourself you should remember the following:
- the seedling must be even and flawless;
- there should be no signs of disease on it;
- if the seedling is sold in a container, the roots should not grow through the drainage holes;
- any damage to the roots is unacceptable. Overdried roots also indicate that the plant is not viable;
- earthen lump - again not overdried! - should be of the same volume as the crown of the tree;
- leaves on the seedling should be completely absent.
How to plant?
Thinking about planting fruit, do not forget that landing plan should not contradict the general concept landscape design plot. It is not at all necessary to place all the trees in one place, you can picturesquely "scatter" them over the site. But in order to take into account all the nuances, it is better to consult with an experienced landscape designer.
And of course, the landing plan should be thought out in advance. Here it is important to keep in mind the composition of the soil, and the illumination, and the distance between trees (in different types and fruit varieties, the crown and the root system grow in different ways, which must be taken into account, otherwise mature tree may interfere with neighbors).
The landing algorithm itself is easy to find on the Internet or other sources. Let us dwell separately on some nuances planting is spring, which gardeners often forget.
- Never use fresh manure for fertilization - it will burn the plant's root system. The most optimal option here is last year's manure, fermented or compost. You can also use in-store manure-based fertilizers.
- When you cover the roots with earth, do not forget to straighten them, and also periodically shake the seedling so that voids do not form under the roots.
- The roots should not remain on the surface, but it is not worthwhile to deepen the plant too deeply. The best option when the root collar of the seedling (the place where the plant's trunk meets the roots) is at ground level.
- It is better to fix the support for the seedling until the plant is planted so as not to damage the roots. Just drive it into the bottom of the hole, and then place the tree so that the support is on its north side- so she will also protect the young bark of a tree unaccustomed to the bright sun. Remember that the top border of the support should be below the beginning of the growth of the branches.
- If the location chosen for planting the tree is damp, cover with a mound of soil before planting to prevent root rot.
The most important thing The thing to keep in mind is that skill comes with experience. Of course, you can hardly do without mistakes, especially if you are planting a garden for the first time. In this case, before starting work, it is better to consult with an experienced gardener or a landscape designer, which is even preferable: a specialist will consider your idea from all sides and find in it vulnerabilities that you most likely do not notice yourself.
In any case, even if you have no one to consult with, in no case give up the dream of your own orchard... Draw a planting plan on paper, write down everything that may be important separately, carefully analyze your plan again and go for it! You will definitely succeed.
Planting fruit trees in spring video:
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Photos: agrus.ua, 3topolya.ru, homestead-honey.com, koffkindom.ru, newsstand.clemson.edu