Beets were brought to us, back in the days Kievan Rus from Byzantium. It contains many useful substances: carbohydrates, vitamins, minerals, trace elements, organic acids, amino acids, fiber. In the southwestern regions of Russia, in Belarus and in Ukraine, the plant is called - beetle or beetle. This culture is grown everywhere, and more than one vegetable garden can not do without it. To get a rich harvest, you need to take into account some points, and most importantly, find out with what to plant beets in the same garden, and with what is not recommended. So about all this further in the material.
Beetroot (beetroot)
Features of growing beets
The plant is unpretentious and cold-resistant, which grows well on loose, organic-rich soils. Beets do not tolerate thickened crops and shaded areas poorly. The seeds of this culture begin to germinate at temperatures above 4 degrees, the seedlings can withstand short-term frosts up to - 0.5-1 degrees, and adult roots - up to -2 degrees. Optimum temperature plant growth and development - 15-25 degrees. At temperatures below 8 degrees, their growth practically stops.
Please note: If the summer is cold and damp, then already in the first year of life, flowering stems appear, which sharply reduces the yield.
Compared to other plants, beets are quite drought tolerant. It tolerates a temporary lack of moisture in the upper layers of the soil, thanks to a powerful, deeply penetrating root system.
During long dry seasons, the root crop requires watering, but excess moisture and proximity groundwater are unfavorable to him. So, in such conditions, beets should be planted on ridges.
Where are beets grown?
The most suitable for it are loamy soils, with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction, well filled with organic fertilizers.
Planting beets
The plant's need for microelements is not very high and, as a rule, is satisfied by their reserves in the soil. Moreover, however, a lack of iron, magnesium, manganese leads to chlorosis of plants, and a lack of copper leads to decay.
Reference! Beetroot does not tolerate repeated crops.
Burak can be sown both in spring and autumn before winter. For the second option, in late October-early November, you should select special cold-resistant varieties that do not shoot for a long time.
In spring, beets are sown one to two weeks later than carrots.
With what to plant beets in the garden?
In order to start n, several factors should be considered:
- It is necessary that root systems were compatible with each other. Ideally, they should be located at different soil levels;
- There must be compatibility of the habit;
- You need to make sure that the requirements for the composition and acidity of the soil are the same.
You can plant beets with the following crops:
Attention! A good result can show - growing beets, along the edge of the beds, with other crops (friendly). The main thing is that they do not shade the root crop.
What to plant with beets?
Also noticed by gardeners that you can plant beets with different varieties cabbage (broccoli, kohlrabi, cauliflower, as well as daikon, asparagus and beans) are quite compatible with this crop.
Spinach grown in conjunction with beets can stimulate their growth.
Attention! As a compactor of beet plantings, they showed themselves excellently: different varieties lettuce, parsley, dill, marjoram, coriander.
It also works great on cucumbers, potatoes, and cabbage beans.
Beets can be grown next to carrots
Is the landing not very tight? Then the carrots can easily take root and not interfere with each other.
Also, it is quite compatible with garden strawberries.
It also interacts neutrally with tomatoes.
What can not be planted with?
Due to the ability of beets to accumulate nematodes in the soil, beets are not recommended to be planted after the following crops:
As an undesirable neighbor who can negatively affect the planting of beets, they are:
- braiding beans;
- rhubarb;
- corn;
- potato;
- mustard;
- chives.
Attention! The corn will heavily shade the beets and will lack light. The fruits will develop poorly, remain small.
Growing beets in one place should be carried out no more than once every three to four years.
Video: Growing beets along the edge of the garden
Conclusion
In the end, it should be said that beets are a very healthy root vegetable. It is useful both raw and boiled - in which it loses little nutrients.
But besides, this culture cannot be used by people who have stomach problems. To begin with, you should consult your doctor. And also, it is dangerous in diabetes, for the reason that beets can increase blood sugar.
Even on a small garden plot you can grow a varied harvest of vegetables and fruits if all crops are correctly placed. The correct neighborhood of plants can both help in achieving the goal and hinder. Let's see what you can plant next to bell peppers.
It is thermophilic and whimsical plant... Achievements of modern breeding make it possible to grow it in the conditions of the Urals and Siberia in the open field, but more often in these regions. Bell pepper planted in a greenhouse.
The soil for growing pepper should be loose and fertile, and retain moisture well. Top dressing is carried out six times per season with organic and mineral fertilizers... Frequent watering, but without stagnant water, allows the bush to form correctly.
Most often, sowing seedlings in boxes is required, since the growing season is long. After the onset of a warm time, the seedlings are planted in the garden. If frost is still possible, it is covered with a film or special non-woven material. Even during the summer months, you may not need to remove the shelter if the weather is below 25 degrees. In such cases, it is preferable to choose self-pollinated varieties, which will give an ovary even under the film.
It's important to watch that there is enough fresh air and the bushes were not infected with black leg - the most dangerous disease for this culture.
The plant, especially in the first months, is fragile, so support is desirable. To receive more shoots the top of the bush is pruned at a height of twenty-five centimeters. Harvesting is done 80 - 90 days after germination.
Outdoor cultivation
What is Bulgarian pepper adjacent to in the open field? With many crops with phytoncidal properties and a specific smell:
- onions;
- marigolds;
- tansy;
- coriander;
- catnip;
- spinach;
- nasturtium.
This neighborhood can be used in the so-called mixed beds: when several plants are planted on small area land (bed) and are jointly cultivated. In this case, bell peppers are planted at a distance of a little more than 40 centimeters between the bushes, and other plants are planted in the same bed with it, in the aisles.
The combination of pepper and the described plants helps to protect a capricious crop from pests, since the substances secreted by marigolds or coriander scare away insects, and phytoncides prevent dangerous bacteria from developing in the soil.
In this regard, it is useful to use and spices:
- marjoram;
- basil;
- Dill;
- thyme;
- lovage.
They exhibit a similar effect without interfering with the growth and fruiting of the pepper. At the same time, a plant such as okra will protect fragile bushes from the wind and serve as a support. It is better to plant it along the edge of the garden.
According to the principle of similarity of care, good neighbors for peppers are seedlings of carrots, eggplants and zucchini. For carrots, this is considered one of the best options in the garden. They work well with each other, reducing the gardener's labor and making the job easier. Seedlings of carrots repel many pests.
With which ornamental plants can you plant it for a good harvest? It is enough to sow nettles and chamomile in the garden. They will speed up the ripening process and allow the pepper to develop better. Dandelion has a similar effect, however, combining these plants, it is important to weed on time, otherwise the garden will overgrow with weeds, and its owner will be left without a crop. From weeds, it is enough to grow several specimens along the edges of the garden.
Sweet can be planted next to tomatoes and cabbage - such a neighborhood, although not particularly profitable, is quite acceptable and does not harm any of the plants. However, you should be careful that tomato diseases do not spread to the Bulgarian bush, since both crops belong to nightshade.
Difficulties may arise with cabbage, as it consumes a large number of moisture, and some varieties form a wide head of cabbage surrounded by large cabbage leaves. As a result, cabbage takes up a lot of space, which is unprofitable if the cultivation is joint. Although compact sweet pepper bushes can fit comfortably in the space between cabbage plants.
When deciding what else to plant next to peppers, it's easy to settle for green crops that can be combined with many plants. These are Swiss chard, spinach, lettuce. They can be planted next to peppers to save space. They will not take up much space in the garden, they will require good watering and will shade the soil, preventing it from cracking during dry periods.
Unlucky neighbors
Finding out with whom the plant is friends, it is important to designate its "ill-wishers", the compatibility with which is negative, which will not only reduce the yield, but can also lead to the death of plants. All the work of the gardener will be in vain.
Among the plants with which peppers cannot be planted next to is fennel. It is very aggressive, and its aromatic substances can destroy the planting of many crops, including sweet peppers.
Beet seedlings will be the first to take a "place in the sun", taking not only most light but nutrients- such a neighborhood is disadvantageous for both plants, but the pepper will lose first.
Among the varieties of cabbage, there are species incompatible with pepper - kohlrabi and Brussels sprouts, which compete for nutrients.
It is unacceptable to plant sweet peppers next to hot ones. This will lead to over-pollination of plants, as a result, sweet varieties will become bitter, fruits will decrease, and the seeds obtained in the future will already give new variety with pungent bitter fruits - a cross between sweet and hot peppers. It is better if these varieties are located at a considerable distance from each other, which does not allow the pollen to overlap.
It is not recommended to plant it next to potato plantings. These plants suffer from similar diseases, so their compatibility can lead to the rapid spread of diseases. In addition, the bushes formed by potatoes take up a lot of space, limiting the space for the peppers.
Unfavorable neighbors for bell pepper beans and peas come out. Although these crops enrich the soil with nitrogen and loosen it, planted with peppers nearby, they suppress it. In addition, peas are looking for a support on which they could twine, and the seedlings standing next to it are well suited for this. As a result, the pepper may simply break or be “suffocated” by the legume.
Let's take a look into the greenhouse
Growing in a greenhouse requires a separate approach. Since there is little space in such rooms, and the spread of infections is faster, the selection of plants must be done more carefully.
When deciding what to plant a crop with, gardeners proceed from two points: make the most of the space and prevent the development of diseases.
Let's see what is worth planting next to the Bulgarian pepper. Planting peppers next to onions is also permissible in a greenhouse; you can find a place in the neighborhood for seedlings of zucchini, carrots, white cabbage or cauliflower. The latter type is preferable because it takes up less space.
Any herbs will only improve the yield of the pepper - they are compatible with many crops and are generally recommended for planting indoors. An important condition here is the ability to repel many insects and other pests, in particular aphids, whiteflies and powdery mildew.
The question of whether it is possible to plant similar crops next to them, such as eggplants and tomatoes, is controversial. Since plants suffer from the same diseases, they can easily transfer them to each other, which in a confined space, especially with poor ventilation, threatens a complete loss of yield. It is necessary to use such a combination with great care and do not forget about regular processing of plants and soil. You can try varieties that are more resistant to pests for growing.
Nasturtium and chamomile planted side by side will have a beneficial effect on the main crop, increasing its yield.
Planting peppers in a greenhouse next to cucumbers is not recommended as they have different requirements for growing conditions. Cucumbers need high level humidity, and the Bulgarian culture prefers dry and warm air, when combined, infections can develop.
Fennel and dill are not greenhouse plants and should not be planted next to peppers. The action of fennel has already been described, and dill is so actively spreading that it can interfere with other plants, moreover, its tall flower stalks and large umbrellas prevent the pepper from receiving enough light. Dill can also become a source of carrot flies, which settle in its roots and are dangerous, first of all, for carrots, and its umbrellas become a refuge for aphids - dangerous for peppers.
Planting beets and some varieties of cabbage is also dangerous next to peppers - this significantly reduces the yield of the crop.
Peas planted next to peppers, like beans and other legumes, are also very dangerous, so it is not recommended to plant legumes in greenhouses.
Thus, deciding what can be planted next to the pepper, you need to build on the compatibility of cultures and their influence on each other. Sometimes the list of what you can plant peppers with may seem strange, but more often it is verified data. Some information can be obtained from your own experience and make your own list of combined plants.
Many gardeners at the beginning of their "agricultural career" strive to grow as many vegetables as possible on their 6 acres. The enthusiasm of a novice gardener does not dry out while seedlings are purchased or grown, while the earth is being dug up, and the greenery begins to take root. To be honest, we are jealously watching how our beds are growing, whether they are lagging behind those of our neighbors. If we are lucky, we are very proud of them. But sometimes no amount of enthusiasm and hard work helps to reap a decent harvest. Something is going wrong. It seems that the weather is good, and energy was spent, immeasurable ...
And then the neighbor, who looked at the heavy sighs, explains: "Who is planting peas among the onions!"
Indeed, vegetables and herbs do not always get along with each other. The neighborhood of some increases the harvest, and diseases, the neighborhood of others - oppresses.
Take, for example, the most common vegetable, carrots. Carrots get along well side by side and mixed with peas, spinach, radishes, lettuce, beets, chard. Carrots grow well with onions, leeks or perennial onions. Neutral to radishes and turnips. But he does not tolerate dill, celery and parsley, he does not tolerate anise nearby.
Dill in our gardens is spread by self-sowing and often on carrot beds by the end of June, lush dill twigs turn green. But do not be lazy and weed carrots from dill, immediately put it in okroshka!
Basil grows well alongside beans, peppers, fennel, cucumbers, lettuce and lettuce, tomatoes, onions, corn, and courgettes. It is not recommended to plant it next to marjoram and dill.
Eggplant grows well next to bush beans, peas, peppers, does not like the neighborhood with cucumbers and rather conflicting opinions about their proximity to other nightshades. Many gardeners, whose eggplants are planted with tomatoes or next to potatoes, are convinced that such a neighborhood is quite successful. Other gardeners believe that eggplants are losing their harvest. But thyme is believed to have a beneficial effect on the eggplant harvest.
Beans grow well next to many crops: corn, tomatoes and cucumbers, carrots and radishes, as for potatoes, there is one peculiarity: beans cannot be planted interspersed with potatoes, but only along the edge of a potato field. In the common ridge, beans are leading in terms of nutrient consumption, potatoes will receive less potassium, first of all, and small tubers form. But the beans planted along the perimeter of the potato ridges scare away moles. Neighborhood beans with onions (all types), garlic and peas are not fond of. If important good harvest beans should be planted next to oregano or rosemary.
Grapes grow well next to radishes, radishes, bush beans, carrots, beets. Tomatoes, cabbage, corn, onions (all types), horseradish, soy are considered harmful to him. Concerning cabbage - White cabbage spoils the taste of grapes, and the colored one, on the contrary, has a beneficial effect (according to Moser), like cucumbers - not the most optimal neighbor, but definitely does not harm. Moser in his experiments notes a beneficial effect on grapes of sorrel, yellow mustard, spinach, alfalfa, melon, and other plants. Worst of all affected grapes: eggplants, potatoes, peppers, dandelion, wormwood, nettles.
Peas - a good relationship with carrots and cucumbers, zucchini and cabbage, they do not like onions, watercress, tomatoes, garlic.
Strawberries - compatible in plantings with lettuce, beans, garlic, spinach, grows well next to beets, onions, radishes, parsley. It does not tolerate the neighborhood with horseradish, the joint planting of strawberries and strawberries is very doubtful.
Zucchini is good neighbors for him - peas, onions, lettuce, bush beans, spinach. It is undesirable to plant zucchini next to pumpkin, potatoes, radishes and radishes, tomatoes, cucumbers, parsley.
Cabbage - it's not difficult for her to find a place in the garden. Many cultures are friends with cabbage: bush beans, carrots, beets, beans, celery, lettuce, cucumbers, tomatoes (except for red cabbage), leeks, beets. Greens can be planted next to cabbage: dill, onions. Conflicting opinions about the compatibility of cabbage and strawberries, strawberries (possibly depending on varieties and planting method), and parsley.
Different types of cabbage have different attitudes towards onions, a number of agronomists believe that Chinese cabbage and onions are incompatible, and onions and broccoli give good combination... We recommend based on your own observations.
Kohlrabi cabbage differs from other types of cabbage - it is planted next to peas, potatoes, radishes, asparagus, bush beans, it does not like the neighborhood with tomatoes, horseradish and garlic.
Potatoes - grows next to a variety of crops, it is easier to list those whom potatoes do not like: melons, legumes (except for bush beans or beans along the perimeter of the field), cucumbers and tomatoes, as well as raspberries, sunflowers, asparagus and celery.
Strawberries can be planted next to herbs (dill, parsley, lettuce), onions, radishes, beets and beans. Doesn't like strawberries, cabbage and horseradish.
Watercress is a rather selective culture. It is good to plant it next to carrots, tomatoes, radishes, spinach, but not next to legumes, cucumbers, tomatoes, beets, and herbs - celery, fennel, dill and parsley. As for onions, the data are contradictory, the Hubmann horticulturist, recommends joint planting of watercress, chives and spinach. A number of other gardeners point out in their notes that watercress does not go well with onions, leeks or green onions.
Corn - rarely grown by gardeners, but if you are looking for a place for it in the beds, it is desirable next to potatoes or peas. Can be planted next to cucumbers or tomatoes, not next to grapes, celery and beets.
Onions are traditionally planted next to carrots. They protect each other from the most common pests: carrots ward off onion flies, and onions ward off carrots. Also, onions can be planted next to melons, cucumbers, beets, salad. Onions are contraindicated in proximity to beans (only leeks are friends with them), asparagus, legumes.
Marjoram - can be planted next to all types of onions, carrots, turnips, spinach. Joint planting of marjoram with fennel and basil is undesirable.
Carrots grow best mixed with onions, next to peas, as already mentioned, it grows well in the neighborhood of many crops, but does not like the neighborhood with spicy herbs (celery, parsley, anise). Sage and rosemary protect carrots from carrot flies.
It is good to plant cucumbers next to beans (bush and climbing), peas, beans, cabbage, kohlrabi, broccoli, beets, lettuce, onions, basil, dill, fennel, radish (not clear with radish), garlic, spinach. Do not plant cucumbers next to potatoes, courgettes, turnips, leeks, watercress, eggplants. The issue of joint planting of cucumbers and tomatoes is controversial, should remain at the discretion of the gardener and personal experience... The same goes for the combination of carrots and cucumbers (more data on incompatibilities).
Peppers can be planted next to eggplants, carrots, cabbage, tomatoes, thyme, and basil. Beets, any beans, fennel will be bad neighbors for him. Interest Ask on the compatibility of pepper and kohlrabi - some sources claim that they are incompatible, others claim that kohlrabi and bell peppers are a wonderful combination. Possibly depends on the type of pepper, for example, there is no data on hot pepper.
Radishes and radishes grow well alongside watercress, green onions, parsley, carrots, potatoes, lettuce, spinach, bush beans, peas, and tomatoes. It is undesirable to plant radishes and radishes next to horseradish, basil.
Turnip - sweet and tasty grows next to legumes, watercress, marjoram, radish, celery, spinach. Do not plant it next to cabbage (common diseases), there is no exact data on tomatoes, but turnips are less demanding crops, tomatoes are quite demanding, so if the soil is well fertilized and nutritious, you can plant turnips next to tomatoes.
Lettuce can be planted next to cabbage, onions, strawberries, dill and parsley. Dislikes celery and fennel neighborhoods.
Beets - the location next to bush beans, dill, potatoes, tomatoes, salad, onions, zucchini is favorable for it. Do not plant beets next to perennial onions, peppers, curly beans.
Tomatoes for better harvest planted next to basil, beans, watercress, perennial onions, carrots, radishes, radishes, lettuce, celery, you can plant nearby cabbage (except kohlrabi). But plant tomatoes away from grapes, peas, potatoes, as well as squash, kohlrabi, dill, and fennel. Controversial issue joint planting of tomatoes and cucumbers, perhaps it depends on the planting method and varieties.
Pumpkin is very often planted together with zucchini, but this is wrong, they are pollinated, and as a result, something average grows with low taste. The pumpkin can be planted next to beans, beans, or peas. Although it is better to plant the pumpkins separately somewhere on compost heap... The main thing is that there are no planting of tomatoes, cucumbers, eggplant, potatoes, peppers nearby - pumpkin takes a lot of nutrients.
Lentils and beans the requirements are quite similar - in joint plantings they are friends with radishes, spinach, cucumbers, grow well next to tomatoes, potatoes, eggplants, peppers, beets, celery, Americans often practice with cabbage (all types). Very contradictory data with onions: leeks can be planted next to lentils and beans, all other onions (including decorative ones) are not allowed. You can not plant garlic, fennel, dahlia flowers next to beans and lentils. To help beans and lentils, there will be sowing in the immediate vicinity of savory (scares off aphids). Pumpkins, zucchini - they do not have either a positive or negative effect if planted in the neighborhood.
"Winter cherry"
The berries of viburnum, mountain ash, some sorts of cherries and other plants can be bitter in taste. But if the frost picks them up, the starch accumulated during the summer and autumn turns into sugar. Sucrose is broken down into glucose and fructose. As a result, with the onset of cold weather - the berry becomes sweeter. Also, at sub-zero temperature- there is a destruction of glycosides, with which a bitter-sour, tart taste is associated, the fruits become more edible, much more pleasant to the taste. Harvesting can be done earlier, keeping the harvest harvested in the garden - in freezer refrigerator.
At the onset of the first long thaw, fruit and berries (both hanging on the branches and lying on the ground) can ferment in the heat - sugar begins to turn into intoxicating alcohol. Birds and animals (hedgehogs, squirrels, moose, etc.) gorge on fermented berries and get drunk, become easy prey for predators, and die under the wheels of cars on highways. With subsequent warming, already fermented fruits finally deteriorate, turn sour, become useless to anyone, neither animals nor people.
Remaining in the winter, on the branches, berries, under some confluence of weather conditions, can turn into a unique product comparable in taste, with expensive wine, an exquisite drink. But this can happen only in a very limited time interval. Without timely collection and conservation (by cooling, freezing), the properties will change.
Personal site What to plant with what
The basic principle of placing mixed crops in a garden bed is the need to take into account the influence of different crops on each other. It is known that many plants are actively developing near each other, however, there are crops that cannot be planted in close proximity, since their struggle for light, water and nutrients leads to a significant decrease in yield.
For example, Basil feels great next to fennel, tomatoes, onions, cucumbers, lettuce and head lettuce, corn and zucchini , but next to marjoram will grow stunted.
Have Dill it is better to plant bush beans, peas, fennel, kohlrabi, cabbage, broccoli, turnips, carrots, parsnips, lettuce, sunflowers, onions, nasturtium and calendula, and the proximity to basil and watercress should be avoided.
For Fennel The neighborhood will be useful with basil, peas, parsley, parsnips and celery. But planting it next to bush beans, watercress, kohlrabi, broccoli, cabbage, coriander, marjoram and tomatoes is undesirable.
Watercress will be pleased with the neighborhood with carrots, radishes, radishes and lettuce, and the neighborhood with Asian salads and beets will hardly please him.
Feels great next to dill, cucumbers, cabbage, broccoli, kohlrabi, coriander, chard, radish, radishes, beets, calendula, celery, sunflowers and tomatoes Bush beans... But you should not plant it next to peas, onions and green onions, chives and fennel.
Peas will grow well and bear fruit in the vicinity of fennel, nasturtium, calendula, coriander, carrot, radish, radish, lettuce, celery and sunflower. Undesirable neighbors for him are bush beans, watercress, green and onions, chives and tomatoes.
Cucumber feels great next to many garden crops: beans, peas, basil, dill, fennel, cabbage, kohlrabi, broccoli, coriander, marjoram, beets, lettuce, spinach, onions, sunflowers and calendula. But we do not recommend planting cucumbers next to tomatoes, radishes, radishes, potatoes, watercress.
Tomatoes grow well in tandem with basil, beans, dill, watercress, green onions, carrots, radishes, radishes, lettuce, celery, chives, spinach, calendula and nasturtium. Neighborhood with cucumbers, kohlrabi, fennel and sunflower is unfavorable.
Kohlrabi grows well alongside basil, beans, dill, cucumbers, coriander, carrots, parsley, radishes, radishes, beets, lettuce, celery, spinach, tomato, calendula, and nasturtium. The neighborhood with watercress, turnips and onions is unfavorable for her.
Good neighbors for cabbage and broccoli are peas, dill, cucumbers, carrots, chard, beets, celery, spinach, tomatoes, calendula, and nasturtium. Avoid planting cabbage next to watercress and onions.
Coriander grows well next to cucumbers, kohlrabi, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, parsnips, lettuce and onions. The proximity to watercress, fennel and parsley negatively affects the state of culture.
For green onions, the proximity to basil, kohlrabi, broccoli, cabbage, turnips, carrots, parsnips, parsley, calendula, celery, spinach, tomatoes and onions is favorable. Beans, peas, watercress, Swiss chard, and beets are bad neighbors for green onions.
Chives, radishes, radishes, broccoli, cabbage, kohlrabi, watercress, peas, beans are bad neighbors for onions.
Turnip grows well next to peas, dill, marjoram, chard, parsnip, radish, radish, lettuce, celery, spinach and nasturtium. The neighborhood with tomatoes, kohlrabi and white cabbage is unfavorable for her.
For carrots, the best neighbors are beans, peas, dill, watercress, onions and green onions, marjoram, chard, parsley, radish, radish, lettuce, chives, spinach, tomatoes, sage and calendula. Neighborhood with beets is unfavorable.
Radishes and radishes grow well alongside watercress, chervil, nasturtium, chives, parsley, carrots, calendula, lettuce, spinach, and tomatoes. It is undesirable to plant radishes and radishes next to cucumbers, basil and chard.
For beets, the neighborhood with beans, dill, coriander, parsnips, lettuce, onions, zucchini, calendula and nasturtium is favorable.
Unfavorable proximity to green onions, Swiss chard, parsley, chives, spinach and corn.
Parsley grows well next to carrots, radishes, radishes, onions and calendula. It is undesirable to grow parsley next to chervil, watercress, coriander and nasturtium.
Leaf and head salads develop best alongside beans, peas, dill, fennel, chervil, nasturtium, kohlrabi, white turnip, parsnip, radish, radish, calendula, chives, tomatoes, corn and onions. Neighborhood with parsley and celery is unfavorable.
Chives grow well alongside kohlrabi, carrots, parsnips, celery, spinach, tomatoes, nasturtium, and calendula. Neighborhood with beans, peas, watercress, broccoli, white cabbage, coriander and beets is undesirable.
Celery is favorably adjacent to beans, kohlrabi, broccoli, cabbage, turnips, green onions, parsnips, tomatoes and spinach. Avoid planting celery next to watercress, corn, lettuce, and head salad.
Spinach grows well next to beans, dill, kohlrabi, broccoli, cabbage, marjoram, radish, radish, lettuce, tomatoes. Neighborhood with watercress, Swiss chard, beets is unfavorable.
For zucchini, the proximity to basil, beans, turnips, chard, radish, radish, beet, onion, nasturtium is favorable.
It is undesirable to plant zucchini next to cucumbers.
As a rule, in mixed crops, soon-, medium- and late-ripening species and crops are combined, and the harvest is carried out sequentially, while freeing up space for the development of plants remaining in the garden bed. It is also possible to combine light-loving and shade-tolerant crops in compacted crops.
Along with traditional combinations garden crops you can try new ones too. For example, plant along vegetable beds spicy crops - dill, fennel, basil, essential oils which are scared away by cabbage butterflies and carrot flies. You can prevent nematode invasion of the garden by planting calendula along the beds, and get rid of aphids by planting nasturtium.
Joint cultivation of onions and carrots. These crops scare off onion and carrot flies from the beds. For joint cultivation, use onion sets and early varieties carrots as well winter onion and late varieties carrots.
Many garden crops respond to changing factors external environment premature flowering and early fruiting. The reasons for such reactions can be soil compaction, lack of moisture and nutrients, long-term drop in air temperature.
For onions and garlic, zucchini, cucumbers, pumpkin, tomatoes, potatoes and early white cabbage are ideal precursors; planting after legumes is also permissible.
The bow is good remedy from spider mites, garlic and wormwood scare off cruciferous flea beetles, and tomato - cabbage whitewash.
Joint cultivation of beans, beetroot and savory. The central row is sown with beets, beans are planted in rows on the sides, savory is sown across the beds. Savory, rooting well in the soil, reliably protects plants from legume aphids. In addition, this herb can be used as a condiment to bean dishes.
Joint cultivation of radishes, parsley, carrots and onions. The bulbs are planted in a garden bed at a distance of 12-15 cm from each other. Between them, 1 radish seed is sown in the holes, then 2 rows of carrots and 2 rows of parsley are sown in turn.
After harvesting onions and radishes, parsley and carrots completely fill the free space in the beds, and by the end of the growing season, normally developed root crops are formed.
Joint cultivation of tomato, carrot, spinach and onion. With early sowing, up to 8-10 kg of vegetables can be obtained from a plot of 1 m2. Sowing the seeds of these crops is carried out on a bed about 1 m wide in a certain order: spinach from the edge, then onions and carrots.
Tomatoes are planted in a free place in the middle of the garden at a distance of 0.5-1 m from each other, and only after the danger of frost has passed.
Of these crops, spinach ripens first. After harvesting, optimal conditions are created for the active growth of onions. After wilting and lodging of onion feathers, the growth of carrots is enhanced and root crops are quickly formed. Ripening of tomato fruits also occurs.
Joint cultivation of radish, spinach, kohlrabi, head lettuce and lettuce. All crops are grown on a 1 m wide ridge. Kohlrabi is planted in 3 rows alternately with head lettuce. Spinach is sown in 2 rows between them. On the sides, 1 row of lettuce is sown, interspersed with radishes.
This arrangement of garden crops has a number of advantages: the plants have a beneficial effect on the development of neighbors, in addition, insect pests (for example, cruciferous fleas) are destroyed.
The first harvest is given by radishes and spinach, a little later the head lettuce ripens, and the last harvest is kohlrabi. If you plant crops according to the proposed scheme, then from an area of 1 m2 you can get from 5.5 to 7.5 kg of vegetables.
Joint cultivation of marjoram and carrots. Marjoram is placed on the sides of a wide bed, as well as between rows of carrots sown in the center of the bed. This neighborhood is favorable for both cultures, gives high yields greens of marjoram and carrots.
In early June, it is possible to sow carrots intended for winter storage. In the same period, thinning of carrots sown in May is carried out. If necessary, it is spud and fertilized with saltpeter.
Joint cultivation of parsley, head lettuce and broccoli. Crops are sown on a bed about 1 m wide. Under the parsley, 3 rows are taken, one of them is placed in the middle, and the other two are at a distance of 5 cm from the edge of the bed. In May, 2 rows of broccoli are sown between the rows of parsley. The distance in the row between the plants should be 45 cm, and between the rows - about 40-50 cm. The thickened plantings of parsley are thinned out and planted on the vacant head lettuce seedlings. The distance between lettuce bushes in a row should be at least 30-40 cm.
Joint cultivation of beetroot, cabbage, leaf and asparagus lettuce. Cabbage and lettuce bushes are planted according to the scheme 30 x 30 cm, asparagus seedlings -according to the scheme 40 x 45-60 cm. After rooting the lettuce seedlings in the aisles, at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other, 20-30-day beet seedlings are planted.
Harvesting lettuce can be done within 30-40 days after planting. During this time, the beets will root well, develop, and the roots will reach maturity. Beet root crops are harvested in September - early October.
Joint cultivation of radish, watercress, peas and brussels sprouts... Seedlings of Brussels sprouts are planted in the middle of the beds at a distance of 20-30 cm from each other.
A small amount of radish and watercress seeds are sown between cabbage seedlings. On the sides of the bed, at a distance of 30 cm from the central row, 1 row of peas is made.
The first of these crops to ripen is peas, then radish, then Brussels sprouts and watercress. The latter remains in the shade of Brussels sprouts and develops normally.
Joint cultivation of carrots and broccoli. They make a bed 1 m wide, in the center and at a distance of 10 cm from the edges of the bed, sow carrot seeds of late-ripening varieties. With the establishment of warm weather (around the beginning of May), carrots are planted between the rows
Broccoli seedlings according to the scheme 50 x 45 cm. Harvesting of the broccoli crop is carried out during the active growth of carrots. Carrots are harvested at the end of September.
Joint cultivation of dill and cucumbers. Seedlings of cucumbers are planted in a garden bed about 1 m wide in 2 rows at a distance of 60 cm from each other. Dill seeds are sown between the cucumbers and along the edges of the beds. When these crops are grown, there is good plant growth and high yields.
Joint cultivation of parsnips, head lettuce and lettuce. Seeds of parsnip and lettuce are sown alternately on the same row. After the salad sprouts, it is thinned out. Parsnips are harvested after the salad is harvested, as the root crops form.
Joint cultivation of cabbage, tomatoes and celery. To grow these crops, you will need a plot of enough large area... In this case, it is better to plant broccoli, cauliflower or savoy cabbage; for small areas of cabbage species, kohlrabi can be recommended. Since the plants need additional fertilizers, manure or compost is embedded in the soil before planting. Joint cultivation of peas, cucumbers and dill. Peas serve as good protection from the wind for cucumber seedlings, and dill grows between these crops much better than in simple sowing. The joint cultivation of peas, dill and cucumbers provides good soil cover and moisture retention in it.
Other possible options mixed crops.
Head salad and fennel;
Chicory and late-ripening cabbage;
Cabbage, leeks and fennel
Leaf lettuce and wintering onions;
Spinach, cabbage, tomato, bush beans and beetroot;
Chard, carrots, cabbage and radishes;
Bush beans, tomato, cucumber, cabbage, lettuce, celery and beetroot;
Curly beans, tomato, cucumber and nasturtium;
Horse beans, lettuce and kohlrabi;
Onions, carrots, tsikorny salad, head salad, cucumber, dill and savory;
Leeks, bush beans, cauliflower and lettuce;
Tomato, celery, lettuce and white cabbage;
Carrots, leeks, peas, tomato, tsikorny lettuce, chives, radishes and Swiss chard;
Beetroot, bush beans, kohlrabi, lettuce, cucumber and peas;
Cabbage, potatoes, lettuce, celery, spinach, lettuce, leeks, and peas;
Cucumber, beans, peas, beans, celery, corn, beetroot, lettuce, white cabbage, fennel, dill, cumin and coriander;
Tomato, celery, parsley, lettuce, white cabbage and nasturtium;
Potatoes, cabbage, horseradish, peas, horse beans, cumin and nasturtium.
Which vegetables grow well next to Compatibility
Over the centuries of growing vegetables, people have noticed that some vegetables grow well together, and some, on the contrary, interfere with the growth of each other. Vegetables, herbs and flowers help each other grow by improving the soil or keeping pests away from each other. Smart landing will provide you with a large harvest.
The choice of neighbors in the garden.
Choosing garden neighbors is the true art of garden planning. Each vegetable is planted in the garden not alone, but in the vicinity of another companion plant. This tactic helps to minimize the harmful effects of insects and diseases.
The rules of the neighborhood in the garden. When choosing neighbors in the garden, pay attention to the families of vegetables. Cabbage vegetables, for example, are best planted next to beets and green leafy crops. Some herbs will help keep pests away from the cabbage. When planted in the same bed as cabbage, mint will improve its flavor.
Vegetables can feel not only sympathy, but also antipathy for each other: some vegetables stunt growth and reduce the yield of each other. A simple sign below will help you find a good neighborhood.
What vegetables grow well in the same garden?
I offer you a short table of vegetable compatibility. More detailed information- further in the article.
| Vegetables | Successful neighborhood | Unfortunate neighborhood |
| Asparagus | Tomatoes | No |
| Beans | Corn, celery, garden savory, cucumbers, radishes, strawberries | Onion and garlic |
| Beet | Cabbage, broccoli, lettuce, onion, garlic | Beans |
| White cabbage, broccoli, Brussels sprouts | Beets, Swiss chard, potatoes, celery, dill, lettuce, onions, spinach | Beans |
| Carrot | Legumes, tomatoes | No |
| Celery | Beans, tomatoes, cabbage | No |
| Corn | Cucumbers, watermelons, pumpkin, peas, beans, pumpkin | Tomatoes |
| Cucumbers | Beans, corn, peas, cabbage | No |
| Eggplant | Beans, peppers | No |
| Melon | Corn, pumpkin, radish, zucchini | No |
| Onion | Beets, carrots, Swiss chard, lettuce, pepper | Legumes |
| Peas | Beans, cucumbers, turnips, carrots, corn, radishes. | Onion garlic |
| Potato | Beans, corn, peas | Tomatoes |
| Zucchini | Corn, melon, pumpkin | No |
| Tomatoes | Carrots, celery, cucumbers, onions, peppers | Corn, kohlrabi, potatoes |
Other Healthy Vegetable Neighbors
In addition to the neighborhood of one vegetable crops on the other hand, it is good to consider other possible neighborhoods - vegetables and flowers, vegetables and herbs. Such combinations in the beds are not only beautiful, but also useful.
Flowers in the neighborhood with vegetables.
Good advice: plant a few marigolds in the tomato garden, they scare away pests. You can even decorate the entire garden around the perimeter with marigolds - this will help keep pests at a distance.
Some flowers act as pest traps, luring insects towards them. Nasturtiums, for example, are very popular with aphids. These pests will prefer to feast on nasturtium, and will not pay attention to the nearby growing vegetables.
Vegetables and herbs.
Grass planted nearby will give your vegetables a more sophisticated flavor. They also repel harmful insects. Rosemary repels beetles that attack beans. Thyme repels cabbage pests. Onions and garlic repel aphids. Oregano, like marigolds, is a good all-round barrier against most insect pests.
When deciding which vegetables to plant next to in the garden, you need to be guided not only by scientific data, but also by common sense. Lettuce, radishes, and other fast growing plants can be planted between melons or pumpkins. The lettuce and radish will ripen before the pumpkin grows. Lovers of the shadow green leafy vegetables like spinach and chard are grown in the shade of corn. Sunflowers also grow well in the vicinity of corn, as their roots take up different levels in soil and do not compete for water and nutrients.
Well, let's move from the particular to the whole, and consider the successful and unsuccessful neighbors for each vegetable.
Plant compatibility.
Neighbors for carrots.
What can you plant carrots next to? The optimal neighborhood for carrots is:
- Beans;
- Sage;
- Radish;
- Salad;
- Rosemary;
- Peas;
- Tomatoes.
And here is the negative neighborhood for carrots:
- Dill;
- Parsley.
Optimal conditions for pepper.
- Basil;
- Coriander;
- Bow;
- Spinach;
- Tomatoes.
Do not plant peppers near beans.
Potatoes and their neighbors.
What can you plant potatoes next to? Potatoes will yield a good harvest if planted next to:
- Beans;
- Broccoli;
- Cabbage;
- Corn;
- Eggplant;
- Garlic;
- Lettuce;
- Bow;
- Peas;
- Radishes.
You cannot plant potatoes if they grow nearby:
- Cucumbers;
- Melons;
- Zucchini;
- Sunflowers;
- Tomatoes;
- Turnip.
Neighbors of tomatoes.
- Asparagus;
- Basil;
- Beans;
- Cucumbers;
- Carrots;
- Celery;
- Dill;
- Salad;
- Melons;
- Bow;
- Parsley;
- Pepper;
- Radish;
- Spinach;
- Thyme;
Avoid placing tomato or any type of cabbage, potato or corn next to it.
Neighbors for asparagus.
What can you plant asparagus next to? An excellent neighborhood for asparagus is:
- Basil;
- Beet;
- Salad;
- Parsley;
- Spinach;
- Tomatoes.
What should you not plant asparagus with?
Fortunately, there are no plants that negatively affect the growth of asparagus.
Neighbors for beans.
What can you plant beans next to? Optimal Neighborhood for Beans:
- Broccoli;
- Corn;
- Cabbage;
- Carrot;
- Celery;
- Cauliflower;
- Cucumbers;
- Eggplant;
- Peas;
- Potato;
- Radish;
- Zucchini;
- Strawberry;
- Tomatoes.
Unwanted Neighborhood for Beans:
- Garlic;
- Sunflowers;
- Pepper.
Beet-bed neighbors.
What can you plant beets next to? Beetroot will yield more yield next to:
- Broccoli;
- Asparagus;
- Cauliflower
- Salad;
- Bow.
Unwanted beet bed neighbors:
- Mustard;
- Beans.
Broccoli and garden neighbors.
What to plant broccoli next to? Optimal neighborhood for broccoli:
- Beans;
- Beet;
- Celery;
- Cucumbers;
- Potato;
- Sage.
Unwanted neighbors for broccoli:
- Cabbage;
- Cauliflower;
- Salad;
- Green beans;
- Tomatoes.
Bed neighbors for Brussels sprouts.
What is the best place to plant Brussels sprouts next to? Best neighbors:
- Dill;
- Salad;
- Radish;
- Sage;
- Spinach;
- Turnip.
Brussels sprouts have one unwanted neighbor - tomatoes.
Neighbors for cabbage.
What can you plant cabbage next to?
- Beans;
- Celery;
- Cucumbers;
- Dill;
- Salad;
- Potato;
- Sage;
- Spinach;
- Thyme.
Unwanted cabbage bed neighbors:
- Broccoli;
- Cauliflower;
- Strawberry;
- Tomatoes.
Cauliflower and its neighbors.
- Beans;
- Beet;
- Celery;
- Cucumbers;
- Sage;
- Thyme.
Bad Neighbors for Cauliflower:
- Broccoli;
- Cabbage;
- Strawberry;
- Tomatoes.
Celery companions.
Celery has no unwanted neighbors. But to grow it better near with:
- Beans;
- Broccoli;
- Cabbage;
- Cauliflower
- Leeks;
- Spinach;
- Tomatoes.
What beds to do next to cucumbers?
- Beans;
- Broccoli;
- Corn;
- Cabbage;
- Cauliflower
- Sunflowers;
- Peas;
- Salad;
- Radish.
Do not plant cucumbers next to herbs, melons and potatoes.
Corn and its neighborhood.
- Beans;
- Cucumbers;
- Salad;
- Melons;
- Peas;
- Potato;
- Zucchini;
- Sunflowers.
But you can't plant corn next to tomato beds!
Recommendations for eggplant.
Eggplants do not have unwanted neighbors in the garden, but they feel great next to:
- Basil;
- Beans;
- Salad;
- Peas;
- Potatoes;
- Spinach.
Lettuce.
Optimal lettuce bed companions:
- Asparagus;
- Beet;
- Cabbage;
- Brussels sprouts;
- Carrot;
- Corn;
- Cucumbers;
- Peas;
- Eggplant;
- Potato;
- Radish;
- Spinach;
- Strawberry;
- Sunflowers;
- Tomatoes.
Broccoli, on the other hand, is the worst companion for lettuce.
What to plant onions next to?
Best neighborhood for onions will be:
- Beet;
- Tomatoes;
- Broccoli;
- Spinach;
- Cabbage;
- Potato;
- Carrot;
- Salad;
- Pepper.
Worst:
- Beans;
- Peas;
- Sage.
Peas and their neighbors in the garden.
What vegetables should you place next to the pea beds? Peas feel great next to:
- Beans;
- Carrots;
- Corn;
- Cucumbers;
- Eggplant;
- Salad;
- Melons;
- Pasternak;
- Potatoes;
- Radish;
- Spinach;
- Turnip.
Do not plant peas near ridges with onions and garlic.
Useful weeds in the garden.
Sometimes plants can only be useful to each other at a certain stage of growth. This is also true for some weeds. How can weeds in the garden be useful? Some weeds pull nutrients from deeper soil layers and bring them to the surface. When the weeds die and decompose, nutrients are made available at the soil surface for fine-rooted vegetables. That is why some vegetables grow very well in the vicinity of nettles.
You can understand what to plant tomatoes next to by examining in detail the needs of plants.
Other nightshades with similar agrotechnical requirements will become the best neighbors in the garden.
But it is better to move moisture-loving cucumbers to the other end of the greenhouse, together these plants get along with difficulty.
You can understand what to plant tomatoes next to by studying in detail the needs of plants
Co-cultivation: pros and cons
- saving space, it is especially relevant for greenhouses;
- plantings look very beautiful, reminding not boring beds, but a thoughtful still life;
- spicy herbs, onions or garlic can protect against pests;
- some plants are able to accelerate the ripening of tomatoes and give the fruits a pleasant taste;
- crops mutually enrich the soil, reducing the need for fertilizers;
- after the tomatoes, you do not need to sow the plantation with siderates;
- it simplifies the care of the beds;
- with mixed sowing, there is no need to change plants every year.
Despite the numerous advantages, joint landing also has disadvantages:
- when placed next to tall bushes (raspberries, currants), tomatoes may not have enough sun;
- some plants have excellent requirements for watering, fertilizing, loosening;
- there is a danger of overdusting.
Correct plant compatibility will help to avoid possible troubles. It is important to understand where to plant tomatoes next to and which crops to avoid. A thoughtful selection of predecessors, followers and neighbors will help increase yields and simplify gardening.
Is it possible to grow cucumbers and tomatoes in the same greenhouse (video)
Greenhouse neighbors
Finding good neighbors is especially important when filling greenhouses or greenhouses. In a confined space, it is difficult for plants to provide diametrically opposite conditions. The best neighbors for tomatoes are other nightshades, primarily peppers and eggplants. They have similar soil composition requirements. All of these crops prefer light and nutritious soil. Perfect option- black earth or sandy loam. On loams, the yield can be significantly reduced. When watering, it must be borne in mind that tomatoes are less moisture-loving than peppers. Will help to resolve the issue automatic system, precisely dosing the water supply.
Compatibility also depends on the variety. Modern first generation hybrids are more tolerant and grow well alongside other plants.
In the aisles, you can sow greens: dill, parsley, herbs. Onions and garlic protect the bushes from pests, purple basil gives the fruit a pleasant aftertaste. A good neighbor for tomatoes is early vegetables: radishes, cabbage. The heads of cabbage are cut before the tomatoes begin to bear fruit, so that the crops do not interfere with each other. Nothing prevents you from planting the next batch of cabbage or salad after the first harvest.
From time to time, the soil in the greenhouse needs to rest and regenerate. The safest and inexpensive option- green manure plants. They enrich the soil with valuable trace elements, saturate it with nitrogen. After the tomatoes, phacelia or alfalfa are planted, at the end of the season these herbs become a natural fertilizer.
It is important to understand next to what to plant tomatoes, and which crops should be avoided.
What to plant in an open garden
The best neighbors of tomatoes in the open field are carrots, radishes, garlic, beets, celery, radish, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts or cabbage, broccoli. Spicy herbs are often planted in the aisles: basil, mint, lemon balm, borage. In the south, next to tomatoes, you can sow watermelons, melons, corn. All nightshades get along well with these plants, the proximity to melons reduces the number of insect pests and prevents some unpleasant diseases.
In a small vegetable garden next to the tomatoes, you can plant strawberries. It's easy to figure out what to plant after tomatoes. Legumes, various flowers, spicy herbs, undemanding to the nutritional value of the soil, are placed on impoverished soil. A good option is to sow a former tomato plantation with phacelia, alfalfa, mustard, or soybeans. After tomatoes, potatoes can also be planted, but humus and mineral fertilizers will need to be added to the soil.
What to plant with what, so as not to interfere (video)
Predecessors and successors: selection rules
The question, after which to plant tomatoes, worries all gardeners interested in bountiful harvest... The best predecessors of tomatoes are different kinds cabbage, legumes, cabbage or lettuce. These plants enrich the soil with nitrogen and other valuable trace elements. You should not plant tomatoes in the beds that were occupied by eggplants, potatoes, peppers.
Green manure plants are necessary for extensive plantings. They must be sown in industrial greenhouses or in garden beds a year before placing tomato seedlings on them.
Various cruciferous plants act as precursors that feed the soil with useful elements: mustard, soy, alfalfa, white or red cabbage, pumpkin. Quite good siderates - cucumbers, beets, turnips, green onions, squash or zucchini.
Green manure plants are necessary for extensive plantings
The next year after tomatoes, it is better to plant different varieties of cabbage or to occupy a plantation with legumes. They are unpretentious to the composition of the soil, and typical diseases of nightshade are not terrible for peas and beans. Do not plant tomatoes after strawberries, eggplants, potatoes, peppers. If the site is small, it is better to divide it into 3 parts in advance. Grasses will act as a catch crop between incompatible plants. In a year of sowing alfalfa or vetch, the land will fully recover.
Questions, after which to plant tomatoes and what can be placed on the beds that were occupied by nightshades, worry many gardeners. There are few hard contraindications, most cultures will calmly endure the neighborhood. Do not be afraid of experiments, sometimes the most unexpected combinations bring success.