Bathroom renovation portal. Useful Tips

Composition for processing wood with your own hands. The best wood preservatives

In this article, I will tell you about the awesome thing - homemade wax impregnation.

It can be used to waterproof fabric, leather or wood, and to protect metal from rust.

What is extremely pleasing - the cost of this cream is extremely low, and production is elementary.

All ingredients are easily mined, now, after the mythical BP.

This impregnation, in my opinion, should be included in the arsenal of every hiker, survivalist and bushcrafter. In any case, I am perfectly happy with her.

So. For cooking we need:

Beeswax. It is purchased in stores selling honey. The cost is 500 rubles per kilogram. With BP, it is obtained by barter at the nearest apiary.

Natural linseed oil (but not oxol). Bought in household goods stores. It is inexpensive, 100r for 400g. When BP is made from linseed, or sunflower oil by long-term welding.

Turpentine is also sold in household stores, it is even cheaper than drying oil. When BP is made by distillation from resin.

Three wax on a grater.

We melt the grated wax in a water bath. After complete melting, remove from heat and stir in the drying oil.

I made the first recipe without turpentine. I just mixed wax with drying oil one to one by weight.

Then he poured it into a mold and set it to cool.

Looking ahead, I will say that the option without turpentine is not so convenient to use, but it can be smeared even on the face.

The version with turpentine, in terms of ease of application, I liked more.
To prepare it, you must observe following proportions: two parts of wax, one part of drying oil and one part of turpentine.

The recipe is similar. Melt the wax in a water bath, remove from heat, add drying oil and mix thoroughly, add turpentine and mix thoroughly too, then leave to cool.

To fill this rather large jar (it is larger than a jar of shoe polish),
you need 75 grams of wax and two tablespoons of drying oil with turpentine.

After hardening.
The version without turpentine is very dense, does not melt in the hands.
The turpentine version is quite dense, but the consistency is pasty. If you take a piece in hand, it will slowly begin to melt. Due to turpentine, it has a slight tar smell.

There are several methods of application:

First, it works well for wood. We take a large piece of impregnation, spread it greasy on a wooden surface.

Then we warm it up with a hairdryer, during the hike it can be a fire.

And we polish with some kind of rag. As a result, the wax penetrates into the pores of the wood and it becomes moisture resistant. Water does not wet it corny.

We just grease the metal. You don't have to warm it up. Now the piece of iron will not rust because no contact with water.

The second way of processing wood is vigorously rubbing in the impregnation. As a result, it melts from the warmth of the hands and friction and also perfectly covers the wood.

The range of wood impregnations is huge. Their choice must be approached carefully, so that later you do not have to regret the damaged wooden thing or the destroyed walls of the house. Before buying a coating, you should find out for what purpose the impregnation is intended.

To prevent the fungus and bacteria from attacking the wood, it must be impregnated with an antiseptic.

For work, do-it-yourself wood impregnation can be used, which has certain advantages and disadvantages.

Wood and its destructive factors

Today it is fashionable and prestigious to have wooden antiques in the house or to build on summer cottage wooden bath... Wooden things are susceptible to destruction by factors such as:

Mold on wood leaves permanent stains and also destroys its structure.

  • putrefactive bacteria;
  • grinder beetles;
  • mushrooms.

Putrefactive bacteria destroy wood under conditions high humidity... Mushrooms leave indelible stains on wood and destroy its structure. In a humid environment, mold spores form in wood.

Impregnation is necessary to get rid of wood from the harm caused to it by various unfavorable factors external environment... The wood preservation process is introduced at each stage of construction, as well as:

  • during the preparation of lumber;
  • in the manufacture of new structures from wood;
  • to protect wood from fire, moisture, destruction by harmful microorganisms.

Types of antiseptic impregnations for wood

Antiseptics help protect wood from grinder beetles.

Modern protective compounds are made using organic substances, oil formulations and on water based... Environmentally friendly products are the most popular. They are chosen depending on the type of wood.

The primer impregnation is designed to save the base material when processing wood. It is used on initial stage technological process before applying varnish or paint. The primer treatment ensures an even application of all layers. Many types of primer treating compounds give the wood the ability to keep water out.

To give the wood a certain shade, a color impregnation is used. The stain enhances the wood structure and gives the wood the desired colors. Multifunctional impregnations are capable of performing several actions, for example:

  • protect from high temperatures;
  • prevent wood beetles from destroying wood.

The water-based impregnation is versatile, easy to apply, dries up in a few hours. Compositions on organic solvents dry much longer, up to 2-3 days.

Nitrocellulose is a compound that provides fast drying of the stain in 10-15 minutes.

Wood processing must be carried out in special protective suits, masks and gloves.

A good water-based impregnation is characterized by the property of highlighting the internal texture of the wooden surface. The coating is resistant to light rays and has dirt-repellent qualities. The process of its application is not very difficult: drops and drips do not form on the working surface.

The water-based impregnation protects the wood from spores of moss and fungi. It can handle furniture, doors, windows. It includes pigments that have the ability to repel light rays. To apply the composition, you must purchase a special brush, when working with which the surface remains smooth and shiny.

Water-based impregnations do not include organic solvents... When applied, there is no strong smell. For work, you should purchase tools in advance:

  • brush;
  • special device for spraying paint;
  • nitro thinner;
  • brass brush;
  • soil for wood;
  • colorless paint glaze.

Mechanism for applying a water-based impregnating compound

The antiseptic can be applied with a paint brush.

Before starting work with the impregnation, it must be mixed. The coating is carried out using a brush or other device that sprays paint over the wooden surface. Wood with an uneven texture is covered with a darker color impregnation.

When working with exotic breeds wood surface must be treated with a nitro thinner.

Before applying the impregnation, the wood is swept with a brass brush. Outside, wooden parts are coated with impregnation twice.

Coniferous and hardwood products are primed with a special compound. The final coat consists of colorless paint combined with glaze. It is inadmissible to get impregnation on plastic parts.

Mastics, impregnation for wood parts

Any master can make an impregnation for wood with his own hands, using recipes based on bitumen. These formulations are much cheaper and have exceptional properties. When applied, they impregnate wood to a depth of 7 mm.

Bituminous antiseptic is suitable for working with poorly dried wood: it freely penetrates wood fibers.

The process of making an antiseptic is simple. It is necessary to prepare the following materials for work:

  • electric stove;
  • bucket;
  • bitumen;
  • diesel fuel;
  • kerosene;
  • mastic.

A bucket is placed on the hotplate, bitumen of the M-5 or M-3 brand is placed in it, heated to a boil and bubbles appear. Then the container is removed from the stove and diesel fuel is added to it. The bitumen should become liquid when cold.

To prepare a kerosene-bitumen mixture, kerosene is used, which is introduced into bitumen with great care. The bitumen is crumbled and combined with kerosene until it is completely dissolved in it. The kerosene-bitumen composition is thick, and before starting work, it is heated to a boil.

Gasoline-bitumen antiseptic must not be heated: it can only be diluted with gasoline.

On the surface treated with the composition, it is easy to apply oil products, enamels, with the exception of nitro varnish and nitro paint. The coating process consists of three stages: priming and two paints.

Using wood biocides at home

Linseed oil helps to provide wood products with an even more presentable appearance.

Preservation of wood helps preservatives used in direct contact with soil or water. The main components of impregnations are copper, chromium compounds with the addition of zinc, fluorine or boron. Biological impregnations are reliable in operation, and they are easy to make with your own hands at home. It is enough to purchase a special container and an antiseptic concentrate. To obtain the finished composition, the concentrate is poured into a prepared container and poured with water, stirring thoroughly.

Natural waxes and oils protect the wood surface from water and weather conditions. Oil penetrates deep into the wood, creating a special layer impermeable to gas, water, steam. The wax protects the product from the outside by forming a special breathable layer.

Linseed oil - great stuff for the protection of wooden structures. It is added to many products that are used for external and internal works... Linseed oil helps impregnations to give wood products a beautiful appearance. The oil is matched to the color of the wood by adding coloring compounds to it. Working with oils is safe for health.

Fire retardants for wood impregnation

Having made wooden structure, it is necessary to protect it not only from mold, fungi, moss, but also from the effects of fire. For these purposes, fire retardants are used for wood flooring... Special substances give the wood its fire-repellent properties. They prevent the spread of fire, make it easier to extinguish a fire that has arisen and extend the ignition time of the wood.

To give wooden structures special properties against the action of flame, 2 types of impregnation are used: compositions based on aqueous solutions of salts and processing of wood LMK.

Fire retardant, including non-toxic inorganic salts, is applied to the rafters, lathing of attics, parts of premises and offices.

Before starting work, prepare the following tools and materials:

  • alkaline cleaning solution;
  • solvent;
  • bucket;
  • roller or brush.

Before starting to apply the composition, the wood is dried, cleaned of dust and dirt. The permissible moisture content of the treated wooden surface is 30%.

The impregnation compound is stirred with a spatula before application, and then applied with a brush or roller to the work surface. The work is carried out at temperatures up to + 5 ° C. The coating is carried out in protective gloves to avoid contact of the composition with the skin of the hands.

Fire-retardant compounds create protection against fire of the 1st degree while fully preserving all the properties of wood coatings. The solution, made by hand, is suitable for work in summer cottages, residential and industrial buildings and does not have a negative impact on human health.

Having studied the market for means that prevent the destruction of wood, you can prevent the premature death of wooden structures by creating special solutions with your own hands.

Wood is a unique natural building material. His positive traits appreciated both in ancient times and today. In buildings made of wood, the optimal level of humidity and temperature is constantly maintained, the air is enriched with oxygen, saturated with resins and essential oils.

However, along with many advantages and benefits, the tree has some disadvantages. It is susceptible to fire, moisture, fungi, mold, bacteria, algae, and insects. If before people puzzled over the question: how to protect the tree from these dangers, but now thanks to special impregnations for wood, such troubles can be avoided.

What it is?

Impregnation for wood Are special solutions designed to protect against the aggressive effects of the atmosphere, fire and biological damage. They are made on the basis of oil, water and volatile organic compounds.

According to their purpose, they can be divided into several groups.

  1. fire retardants;
  2. antiseptics;
  3. against atmospheric influences;
  4. combined formulations.

Fire retardants

Fire retardants are designed to protect wood from fire and combustion processes. They contain special substances that melt when the temperature rises and create a thin film on the surface. Thanks to this film, oxygen supply to the wood becomes more difficult, the flammability threshold increases and the combustion intensity decreases. Examples: DIAFOS-P50, Old elm, Fire retardant "PP", etc.

Antiseptics

The composition of the impregnation for wood from decay and other biological damage ( antiseptics ), includes biocides or, in other words, poisons that destroy microorganisms and insects, and also prevent their occurrence. Prevents the occurrence of putrefactive processes Aquatex, Biodekor, Neomid 430, Quintol, Biosept, Kram, Woodmaster Biosept, Biotonex, Tecotex, Biocron, VAK-48D, Actitox, Novotex and etc.

Antiseptic classics are brands Tikkurila, Dulux, Pinotex and Senezh... Tikkurila company produces Tikkurila Vinha antiseptic, Antiseptic is presented in the arsenal of Pinotex Pinotex Classic, Pinotex Aqva Plus etc. Mark senezh is very popular on Russian market... The company produces the following antiseptics: Senezh ultra, Senezh ecobio, Senezh bio, Senezh impr and etc.

Impregnation against weathering

Impregnation for wood from moisture allows you to protect the wooden structure from deformations and cracks. They are dangerous in that they worsen the appearance of the structure and reduce the quality characteristics of wood as building material... The most effective, reliable, durable and most expensive way to protect wood from water is deep impregnation with special compounds. It is carried out under special conditions - in baths or autoclaves.

This mixture is a solution that protects the material from the destructive effects of the external environment. Examples: Tikkurila Valtti Color Extra glazing antiseptic, Tikkurila Valtti Aquacolor glazing antiseptic and others. Thanks to the application of a mixture with a water-repellent effect, its strength, resistance to moisture, and also prolongs its service life.

Part impregnation against weathering may include metal oxides. They protect the tree from ultraviolet radiation that makes the houses look gray. Colors can be very different: burgundy, green, blue and many other colored, and can also be transparent and translucent.

Combined formulations

Combined formulations Are means that protect the tree from the aggressive effects of several factors at once. For example, antiseptic fire retardants protect the material from biological damage and at the same time increase the fire resistance of wood. These include Senezh Ognebio, Senezh Ognebio prof, Neomid 450, Healthy House Ognebio, Antibiokor-S, Pirilaks, MIG-09 and etc.

Means that protect against biological damage: decay, mold, fungus, insects, protecting against precipitation, moisture and UV rays include Tikkurila Valtti Color Satin glaze antiseptic, Symphony Nordic Wood Silk glaze antiseptic, Healthy House aqualazur antiseptic, Tikkurila Euro Eco Wood antiseptic and etc.

How to choose the right composition

When choosing a protective composition, you need to pay attention to some of the nuances. A mixture based on water needs additional drying, which in turn can lead to cracks and deformation of ready-made structural elements.

Lining for purlins, purlins, beams, partition panels, struts, logs, tabs between logs, bars, transverse strips are subject to continuous treatment with water-based antiseptic solutions. As well as racks and bottom straps walls, crossbars, slats, inserts, filing boards, flooring boards of basement and interfloor attic floors.

Oil-based impregnations have an unpleasant, persistent odor. They are flammable, prone to discoloration of the wood, are very toxic and slow down the subsequent drying process. After such processing, the tree is almost not amenable to mechanical processing and painting. Therefore impregnate with oily protective compounds only those products are recommended that are located in the open air and are constantly in contact with water.

Wood properties are an important component

Depending on the species and structure of the wood, there are four classes of wood resistance to decay:

  • Unstable- sapwood of linden, aspen, birch core, alder;
  • Low-resistant- core of elm, sapwood of beech, birch, maple, oak;
  • Medium resistant- fir, spruce, sapwood of larch and cedar;
  • Persistent- ash, pine, larch and oak core.

Different types of wood absorb protective solutions in different ways. There are three groups of breeds:

  1. Difficult to soak- spruce, core of oak, birch, ash, beech;
  2. Moderately soaked- aspen, alder, sapwood of maple, linden, oak, pine kernel;
  3. Easily soaked- sapwood of pine, beech and birch.

How to do it yourself?

In case of severe limited financial resources, you can make the mixture yourself. It will cost much less than buying finished product... For many years craftsmen make a protective substance from bitumen.

With bitumen in the composition

It is done as follows: bitumen is poured into an unnecessary bucket, put on fire and brought to a boil. After that, the bucket with bitumen is removed from the fire and diesel fuel is gradually poured in. Diesel fuel is needed so much that the mixture remains liquid even when cooled. Such a homemade wood preservative penetrates into the structure of the tree no worse than the purchased ready-made ones - the absorption depth is up to 6 mm. At the same time, the tree breathes and dries up.

If a faster drying impregnation is required, the bitumen is diluted with gasoline. However, it is impossible to heat the solution in this case. Only the dissolution of bitumen with gasoline should be achieved. After drying, the wooden surface treated with this impregnation can be coated oil enamels and paints after priming. It is strictly forbidden to use nitro lacquers and nitro paints.

To make it, you need 25 kg of sodium fluoride (it costs about 1,500 rubles). It is diluted in 400 liters of water and then, using an airless paint apparatus at a pressure of 200 bar, the entire blockhouse is treated, peeling off the top gray layer of wood in parallel. Then it is necessary to grind the angle grinder with a flap wheel 40 and hold finishing oil, wax, varnish, etc.

Prices

If you compare the average prices in Moscow, you can see that the compositions Senezh are the most economical, and mixtures Boritex Lazur and Shell Guard- the most expensive.

The cost of various impregnations in rubles per liter or kilogram:

  • Senezh ultra 50-60 rubles / liter;
  • Senezh ogebio 50-60 rubles / liter;
  • Senezh bio 60-70 rubles / liter;
  • MIG-09 72 rubles / kg;
  • Healthy House Ognebio 90 rubles / liter;
  • Zdorovy Dom antiseptic aqualazur 110 rubles / l;
  • DIAFOS-P50 130 rubles / kg.;
  • Phenylax Fire-retardant composition 135 rubles / l;
  • Pirilax Prime 163 rubles / liter;
  • Fire protection of wood Pirilax Biopyren 168 rubles / l .;
  • Elkon 180 rubles / liter;
  • Neomid 440 ECO 196 rubles / l.;
  • Antiseptic impregnation KRASULA for wood (can 0.95 l) 197 rubles / kg;
  • Tikkurila Euro Eco Wood antiseptic 220 rubles / l;
  • Belinka toplasur 226 rubles / liter;
  • Belinka toplasur 226 rubles / liter;
  • Pinotex Classic - antiseptic 265 rubles / l;
  • Nordic Wood Silk 280 rubles / liter;
  • Tikkurila Valtti Color 280 rubles / liter;
  • Pinotex Ultra. 283 rubles / liter;
  • Pinotex Ultra 353 rubles / liter;
  • Tikkurila Vinha antiseptic 360 rubles / l;
  • Dulux Weathershield Multi-Surface Fungicidal Wash 490 rubles / l.;
  • Boriteks Lazur 1,020 rubles / liter;
  • Shell Guard RTU 1,400 rubles / liter
Copper, brass and bronze products are degreased in a solution containing 100 g of trisodium phosphate and 10-20 ml in 1 liter of water liquid glass... After degreasing, the product is thoroughly washed in hot water and immersed for 30-60 seconds in 5% hydrochloric acid to remove the layer of metal oxides, after which the product is washed again with water and immediately transferred to the coating solution.
For "coloring" copper products v different colors recommend using the following recipes

17. Dissolve in 100 ml of water 4 g of sodium hydroxide and 4 g of lactose (milk sugar), the solution is boiled for several minutes, and then in small portions with continuous stirring add 4 ml of concentrated solution of copper sulfate. The defatted product is immersed in a hot solution, and, depending on the duration of processing, its surface becomes golden to green, brown or even black. As a result of the redox chemical reaction of copper sulfate with lactose in an alkaline medium, gluconic acid is obtained and a precipitate of copper (I) oxide is precipitated. Initially, the thinnest yellow Cu2O film is formed, which gives the copper surface a golden hue. With prolonged heating, the Cu2O crystals enlarge, become dark red, hence the change in the color of the coating.

18. Prepare a solution of 2 g of nickel sulfate, 4 g of berthollet's salt, 18 g of copper sulfate and 0.2 g of potassium permanganate in 100 ml of water. Copper processing warm solution this composition gives them " bronze" view

19. Dissolve 12.5 g of ammonium carbonate in 100 ml of water and add 4 ml ammonia... The resulting solution is applied with a brush to the surface of the product and the surface is obtained greenish color... When ammonia acts on the copper surface in the presence of atmospheric oxygen, a complex salt is formed, which then interacts with ammonium carbonate, producing a green precipitate of copper hydroxide-carbonate Cu2CO3 (OH) 2 on the metal surface.

20. Copper blacken weed liver solution. To obtain sulfuric liver, 1 part (by weight) of sulfur and 2 parts of potash are fused in an iron can. After cooling, the glassy black mass is removed from the can and finely crushed. Sulfuric liver can only be stored in an airtight container. A 10-15% solution of sulfuric liver is made in water, the solution is brought to a boil and the details are lowered into it. Blackening time 0.5 - 1 min. If the product is complex - it consists of parts, then they are blackened and polished before assembly.
21. Brass is blackened in the following solution: 200 g of copper carbonate and 1 g of ammonia (25%) are dissolved in 1 liter of water. Details are processed in a solution at tempera temperature 30-40 ° С, processing time 3-5 min

22. "Rust converter"turns it into durable coating surface Brown color... A 15-30% aqueous solution of phosphoric acid is applied to the product with a brush or spray bottle and the product is allowed to air dry. It is even better to use phosphoric acid with additives, for example, 4 ml of butyl alcohol or 15 g of tartaric acid per 1 liter of phosphoric acid solution. Orthophosphoric acid converts rust components into iron orthophosphate FePO4, which creates on the surface protective film... At the same time, tartaric acid binds some of the iron derivatives into tartrate complexes.

23. Old recipe ointments to protect the metal from rust is as follows: melt 100 g of pork fat, add 1.5 g of camphor, remove the foam from the melt and mix it with graphite, ground into powder, so that the composition turns black. The cooled ointment is used to lubricate the metal and leave it for a day, and then polish the metal with a woolen cloth.

Padding walls - an operation to create an intermediate layer (primer), firmly adhered to both the plastered surface and a layer of putty, whitewash or paint. At the same time, cracks are repaired.
Mixes for primer on drying oil.
24. Vitriol primer: dissolve 150-200 g of copper sulfate in 2-3 liters of boiling water, separately dissolve 200 g of wood glue in 2-3 liters of water. Add 25-30 ml of drying oil to the glue solution, filter and pour in a solution of copper sulfate, 250 g planed laundry soap and 2-3 kg of chalk powder, and then add water to 10 liters. The mixture is filtered through a mesh cloth (for example, through cheesecloth)

25. Alum primer contains in 10 liters of water 150-200 g of potassium alum, 200 g of soap, 200 g of wood glue, 25-30 ml of drying oil and 2-3 kg of chalk powder, and it is prepared in the same way as vitriol

26. Soap-making primer consists of 2-3 kg of slaked lime, 500 g of soap, 100 g of drying oil and water. First, dissolve soap in 2-3 liters of boiling water and pour into this solution with thorough stirring drying oil. Then slaked lime mixed with a small amount of water to a pasty state is added to the resulting emulsion. The mixture is thoroughly mixed and water is added to 10 liters.

Processing wood with special compounds increases the strength of the material, providing reliable protection from aggressive influences and destruction. When making a wood preservative with your own hands, you should remember about the high toxicity of the component composition.

The need for processing large areas wooden house, or a bath, requires the use of significant volumes and is a financially costly stage construction works. The best option in this situation, the acquisition of the necessary chemical reagents and the preparation of an antiseptic for wood with your own hands will be performed.

Choice suitable composition depends on the desired processing properties. The classification of antiseptic agents is formed on a component basis:

  • oil base;
  • wax base;
  • water base;
  • solvents.

Antiseptics are also distinguished depending on the type of construction work: for indoor or outdoor use. Internal processing must be safe and environmentally friendly. Means for external processing include a base that combines the properties of an antiseptic and resistance to weathering (temperature extremes, ultraviolet light).

Component composition of antiseptic


The qualitative characteristics of the component composition of the solution will help determine how to make an antiseptic for a tree with your own hands of the required type. Preparation of the product can be based on:

  • copper sulfate, or iron (iron, or copper sulfate);
  • iodine, or brilliant green;
  • bitumen;
  • biocidal or clay pastes;
  • sodium fluoride.

Oil-based or bitumen-based products effectively protect wood even when in the ground from moisture and fungal infections. Viscous solutions penetrate deeply into the structure of the material. The disadvantage of processing with petroleum products in combination with substances of a coke-chemical nature is high level toxicity.

Traditionally, water-salt-based mixtures are used. The area of ​​application depends on the concentration of the solution. Unlike oil or bituminous versions, the products are less toxic, easy to prepare and do not require special conditions for the transportation of components.

The disadvantage of the composition is the need to apply an insulating outer layer, which will increase the resistance to washout.

Main areas of application


A do-it-yourself wood antiseptic made by yourself allows you to use the solution in large volumes to achieve the desired result:

  1. External protection of wooden buildings from moisture and ultraviolet radiation.
  2. Treatment wood materials with open transportation.
  3. Protection of areas exposed to increased moisture exposure (underground, buried in the ground).
  4. Bacteriological protection against insects, fungus and mold.

The compositions can be used as a surface coating or material impregnation. The combination of antiseptic substances with varnishes, or coloring agents, additionally provide a decorative surface.

Important aspects of preparation and application

Basic manufacturing rules will help you figure out how to make quality solution... You will need to carefully study the information on toxic constituents and the necessary precautions. When choosing a recipe, it is important to consider the availability of components.

Initially you need to prepare necessary inventory(containers, brushes, watering cans, spatulas) and choose a place for making the solution. The cooking process directly depends on the base and the component composition of the mixture. It is important to pay attention to the degree of toxicity of the substances.

Application of liquid solutions should be carried out using a spray gun, thicker ones - with wide brushes or a sponge. Internal work is carried out in a ventilated area.

Copper sulfate recipe

Do-it-yourself wood antiseptic made of vitriol should take into account certain proportions of the substance, calculated for the desired volume of the finished mixture. You will need to prepare chemical components:

  • copper sulfate (50% of the composition of the dry part);
  • sodium dichromate (50%);
  • water (in a ratio of dry matter 1 kg / 9 l. water);
  • table vinegar 9% (1000 ml water / 5.5 ml vinegar).

The process of preparing a paste based on vitriol includes mixing dry components in equal quantitative proportions. To improve the dissolution of substances to the required consistency, heating water to 50 ° C will help. The made paste is thoroughly mixed and ready for use.

The cooking rules must take into account safety measures, because the resulting antiseptic, copper sulfate for a tree is toxic with your own hands. Avoid getting the solution on the skin and mucous membranes. It is advisable to use special protective clothing, goggles, respirator.

Bitumen based paste

Antiseptics for wood deep penetration do it yourself made on the basis of bitumen. Gasoline or diesel fuel acts as additional components for the solution. The need for deep impregnation is often caused by the aggressive impact of the external environment.

The recipe requires special care. Bitumen is placed in metal container and heats up until the lumps disappear. The thermal effect is stopped when the required viscosity of the agent is reached. Next, a solvent substance is added. Optimum penetration of the mortar can be achieved by immersing the elements to be treated in the finished mixture. Bituminous antiseptic has a high degree of adhesion to the wood surface.

Shielding solution options


It is available to make a simple and effective do-it-yourself wood preservative. The recipe has an available formulation based on sodium fluoride solution. The concentration of the substance from 0.5% to 4% is selected depending on the need for internal or external processing.

The addition of potassium permanganate (10 g) will facilitate visual control over the thickness of the protective layer. Over time, the color of the coating will disappear. Wood processing works are performed with a wide brush, or with a spray gun.

Sulfate mixtures are used to protect against destruction wooden parts submerged in the ground. The main component is 10-20% diluted in 10 liters of water. The desired effect can be achieved only if the impregnation is held for a long time and the surface is properly dried.

Oil impregnations are widely used for interior work. The safety of the base is achieved due to the naturalness of the composition. Are used different kinds oils (linseed, hemp) in combination with additives (extracts with tanning components). Treatment oil formulations increases decorative effect, restores texture and enhances the insulation of the material from moisture.

The choice of treatment for wood depends on the individual requirements for the coating. The degree of protection can be adjusted by selecting the required concentration and thickness of the protective layer. Means, correctly made with their own hands, are not inferior in quality and efficiency to ready-made solutions.