The technology for installing plastic windows in a brick house differs from the rules for installing PVC profile products in concrete or panel walls. It is important to understand these differences before starting installation work and avoid mistakes.
Installation of plastic windows requires a set of tools and consumables.
Plastic windows in a brick house can be installed on anchor plates or bolts. Their dimension depends on the depth of the quarters into which the product will be attached, as well as the quality of the brick from which the walls are laid. It can be gas silicate, foam concrete, etc.
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If the installation is carried out in a secondary housing stock, before installing the window, you must first remove the old frame from the opening. This will require:
- removing the flaps from the hinges;
- removal of the old;
- dismantling the window sill and low tide;
- removal of roofing felts and tow that were once used to insulate the opening;
- breaking off old plaster, if alignment of the opening geometry is necessary.
For dismantling, you will need a small crowbar. If the frames are massive enough, then to facilitate the scrapping process, you can use a hand saw for wood or a jigsaw.
To drill holes for fasteners, you will need a perforator, and to attach the frame to the anchor, you will need a screwdriver. You will also need a construction knife with replaceable blades, a level, good quality construction foam and sealant guns.
What materials are needed for the installation of a plastic window?
Installation of plastic windows is a multi-stage process. At each stage it is necessary to use different consumables:
- mounting wedges;
- professional foam;
- PSUL or acrylic sealant;
- waterproofing tapes;
- anchor plates or bolts.
- cyacrine;
- sealant.
Mounting wedges are needed to level the level, if necessary, they are placed under the stand profile.
Polyurethane foam- insulating material for filling the assembly seam, i.e.
the space between the wall and the window frame. Professional pistol foam must correspond to the temperature regime of the season in which the installation of the plastic window is planned.
PSUL (pre-compressed self-expanding sealing tape) is glued along the perimeter of the window frame and expands from the street side of the seam - from the edge of the frame in a quarter. In appearance it resembles gray foam rubber. If there are no quarters, a special acrylic sealant will be required.
A waterproofing tape made of membrane material is placed under the ebb for ventilation and to protect the bottom seam from moisture.
A sealant is necessary to fill the seams of the window sill abutment to the slopes and window frame.
How to fix a window in the opening?
The rules for installing plastic windows are explained in detail by GOST R 52749-2007 “Assembly window seams with vapor-permeable self-expanding tapes. Technical conditions ". This state standard prescribes, before starting to install a window in the opening, to stick the PSUL around its perimeter.
This self-expanding material is an independent mounting layer that cannot be covered with plaster, putty, or painted over. Otherwise, the insulating material will not perform its function.
When inserting the frame into the window opening, you should adhere to the tolerances. The deviation of the window frame in the horizontal and vertical planes should be no more than 1.5 mm per 1 m of length, but no more than 3 mm for the entire height of the window.
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The frame is attached to a brick wall according to the following rules:
- from the inner corner of the frame to the first fastening element vertically, the distance should not exceed 150-180 mm;
- from the impost to the fasteners horizontally, this distance is recommended at 120-180 mm;
- the arrangement of the anchors vertically - with a distance of 700 mm for white plastic windows and 600 mm for laminated profiles.
The inserted block must be checked for deviation from the level and foamed around the perimeter.
Installation seam device
PSUL along the perimeter and foam insulation are only 2 parts of the three-layer filling of the assembly seam described by GOST.
After foaming the frame, it is necessary to remove the mounting wedges from under the support profile and fill the formed voids with foam. For better adhesion, the inner surface of the window opening can be moistened with a sprinkler before foaming.
Before installing the ebb from the outside, stick on a waterproof vapor-permeable tape. The ebb is screwed to the support profile with self-tapping screws. The edges of the low tide must be bent onto the outer slopes to avoid moisture ingress under it.
On the inside of the window along the perimeter (except for the lower horizontal part of the frame), a vapor barrier is glued, which provides an additional sealing layer for the assembly seam and isolates it from moisture. This tape is available in various widths and can be glued both under wet finishing of slopes (plaster) and dry (polystyrene or plastic slopes). They also produce universal tapes for slopes.
A vapor barrier is also installed under the window sill: full-butyl tape with a foil layer.
We collect the installed window
The frame installed in the opening and foamed around the perimeter must be assembled.
Double-glazed windows are inserted into deaf, non-opening parts. To seal (fix) the installed glass unit, you will need a medium-sized plexiglass hammer. Glazing beads are cut at an angle of 45 ° and inserted into the frame along the perimeter of the glass unit with some effort. In order for the glazing bead to finally snap into place, it must be slightly knocked out with a hammer.
If the window unit to be installed has opening sashes, it is necessary to hang them on the hinges. It is not difficult to cope with this task, since modern window fittings are very easy to operate.
But putting the sash back in place is not enough. Check its operability and, if necessary, adjust in the hinge part using a special adjusting key.
To check how accurately the plastic window is in level, you need to open the sash. If it does not slam shut by inertia or open wider, then the unit is installed correctly.
We install the window sill and slopes
The installation of wooden windows, like plastic ones, cannot be considered complete if a window sill is not installed. The sill board snaps into place and attaches to the stand profile.
If voids under the window are found during dismantling, you can fill them with insulation, for example, roll or tile, and then install the window sill.
For the final finishing of the opening, you need to understand how to properly install the slopes. They can be plastered or assembled from expanded polystyrene foam sandwich panels.
With the latter option, the panels are cut to size in place, taking into account the geometry of each slope. A U-shaped plastic profile is screwed to the frame close to the slopes, called in another way the starting profile. The panel is inserted into it. The voids are foaming.
Foam is a polyurethane foam sealant that, due to its properties, takes a certain time to fully expand and harden. Typically 1 to 24 hours.
In the places where they adjoin the wall, the sandwich panels are closed with a decorative profile, most often of the F-shape.
The junction of the slopes and the frame to the window sill is silicone-sealed with a sealant.
Who to entrust the installation of the window?
Installing a PVC profile window and installing a wooden window are not the same thing. The installation of windows in a brick house is associated with certain nuances. It is required to have on hand all the necessary tools, including adjusting keys for window fittings, as well as a stock of fasteners and special mounting tapes.
It is equally important to choose the right foam and sealant. As an alternative to the latter, you can use the so-called liquid plastic. This is a special adhesive sealant that hardens very quickly, but also creates a particularly strong sealed seam.
If you are not sure that you can cope with the installation yourself, it is better to resort to the help of specialists.
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Plastic windows have a well-deserved reputation for being functional, reliable, durable and aesthetic designs. They are becoming more and more popular and are confidently replacing wooden windows familiar to many people.
Plastic windows have gained a reputation for strong, durable and reliable structures.
Their additional advantages include the fact that, with a strong desire, almost anyone can install plastic windows on their own. And this is a big plus, because for the installation, experts ask for quite a lot of money. In addition, having figured out how to install a plastic window, you will independently control the entire process and will be able to do everything in accordance with the technology.
How to determine the size of the future plastic window
Before ordering plastic windows, you need to figure out exactly what the structure should be. And this preparatory stage begins with taking measurements. When making measurements on your own, the home master should know that there are window openings without a quarter and with it. The measurement procedure for the two different types of openings will also differ.
Option with a quarter involves taking measurements in the following order. First, you need to measure the opening between the quarters in the narrowest place and add 3-4 cm to the resulting value. This will be the width of the structure. Additionally, make sure that the certain width of the future plastic window exceeds the largest distance between the vertical quarters. To determine the height of the future window, measure the distance between the lower plane of the opening and the upper horizontal quarter. This will determine the value you need.
In the case when the installation of a plastic window is carried out in the opening without the above-mentioned quarter, to determine the appropriate size, it is simply necessary to subtract 5 cm from the height, and 3 cm from the width.
Additionally, determine what size the window sill and ebb should be if you plan to replace them. There should be no complications with this operation, you just need to take into account the following important factors.
When determining the width of the ebb, the future thermal insulation or cladding must be taken into account. According to the standards, the ebb should protrude from the vertical of the wall by 5-10 cm. The width of the window sill is calculated taking into account its future functional purpose. For example, if you want to plant potted flowers on it, it is better to order a wider design. In most cases, when selecting a window sill, the calculation is carried out so that the free part of this element overlaps the heating batteries.
The length of the window sill should be 8-10 cm longer than the width of the opening. The edges should be recessed into the slope cavity by at least 5 cm.
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Window ordering and preparation for work
At the next stage, you need to go along with the received measurements to a company specializing in the production of plastic windows. By the way, if you do not want to waste time measuring or you doubt that you can do everything correctly, order this service from the same company. Most firms offer it free of charge, provided that the window is ordered from them.
In addition to the size of the window, you need to define the following parameters:
- The number of chambers in a glass unit.
- The number of cameras in the window profile.
- Availability of fittings and necessary fasteners.
The consultant will tell you in detail about the features of each option. You can prepare in advance. So, if in your region the winters are not very cold, and the street outside the window is not very noisy, a window with two glasses and a 60 mm wide profile will be quite enough. Further, already be guided by the peculiarities of the climate and the environment.
For self-installation of a plastic window, you will need the following:
To install windows, you will need: a hammer, drill, screwdriver, building level, etc.
- A gun for polyurethane foam and the foam itself.
- Drill with variable speed and perforation mode.
- Small ax and hammer.
- Scissors for metal.
- A sharp knife, a clerical one will do.
- Building level.
- Chisel.
- Grinder.
- Nail puller.
- Jigsaw. If not, you can use a fine-toothed hacksaw.
- Putty knife.
Buy additionally from materials:
- Multipurpose construction adhesive.
- Wooden beam with a total length of 150-200 cm and dimensions of 2x4 cm.
- Dowels.
- Plastic corners and panels from the same material.
- Self-tapping screws of different sizes. Usually 6x40, 2x16, 2x80 are used.
- Solvents.
- Mix for plaster.
- Silicate glue.
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Dismantling the old window with your own hands
At the very initial stage of changing windows, it is necessary to dismantle the old window structure.
If windows have already been installed in the room, then before starting the installation of a new window, you need to get rid of the existing structure. If in the future you do not plan to install the old window anywhere, you can not try to be neat, but caution will not hurt. Do your best not to hurt yourself or drop the window out. The last rule is especially true for apartments in multi-storey buildings, because the window can fall on someone or damage someone else's property. And in a private house, glass cleaning will not give you any pleasure.
First, remove the opening vents and sashes. Remove all glass from the structure, having previously removed the retaining glazing beads. Take a grinder with a circle on concrete or a hacksaw. Using the tool, make cuts along the horizontal and vertical elements of the window frame.
Using an improvised tool - a pry bar, a crowbar, a hammer will do - remove the product from the opening. In some cases, when the owner wants to keep the old window, the structure can be taken out without deformation and damage. But this will take much more time and certain skills.
At this stage, both the external ebb and the window sill are dismantled. In conclusion, the window opening is thoroughly cleaned of dust and all kinds of construction debris.
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Step-by-step instructions for installing a plastic window
Gradually, you came to the main stage of work - installing a new window. This work requires careful and consistent implementation of a whole list of different activities.
First, the window is prepared for further installation. At this stage, you need to attach the mounting plates to the end of the top and side parts of the frame. In the future, it is thanks to them that the structure will be held in the required position. Quite often, installers replace the plates with suspensions, which are usually used when installing various plasterboard structures. But when installing a plastic window, it is much more expedient to use plates. They are stronger than suspensions.
The slats must be securely fixed to the end of the frame. When installing, the fasteners will have to fit into the body of the metal profile of the block. And this should be done in such a way that the glass unit does not deform. Fasteners are made using self-tapping screws. Select the diameter of these products taking into account the size of the window. Standard-sized structures are usually installed using self-tapping screws with a diameter of 4 mm. For larger blocks (from 2x2 m), it is best to use larger self-tapping screws - 5-6 mm in diameter.
The fastening of the anchor strips to the end of the frame should be carried out so that they are installed in 6-8 cm increments at a distance of 10-15 cm from the corners of the product.
After that, you need to correctly expose the prepared window structure. On the surface, this procedure may seem pretty straightforward, but take it seriously. It is best to enlist the help of an assistant at this stage. One of you will support the block and the other will align it.
Place the unit in the opening and adjust its position using the pre-prepared wedges. It is important to place the block strictly vertically and horizontally. At this stage, follow the recommendations:
- Wedge the module not only from the bottom, but also from the sides.
- Make sure that all vertical frame members are in the same plane.
- If there is an impost, place wedges underneath as well.
Check that the unit is installed evenly with a spirit level. If there are even the slightest deviations, correct them. And only after that proceed to fixing the module. To do this, fix the anchor plates to the opening cavity using anchor bolts or dowels. It is important that the elements are attached strictly to the enclosing structures. To do this, it may be necessary to remove the plaster layer where the anchor plates are attached.
After you have securely anchored the module, seal the seams with foam designed specifically for the job. It is important that the material is intended specifically for the installation of plastic windows. Please read the instructions carefully and make sure that it can be used under the humidity and temperature of the installation site of the module.
Moisten the joint surface with water before applying the foam. If you need to fill an area wider than 3 cm, do it in 2 stages with a half-hour break.
Replacing old wooden doors and windows with plastic ones is still quite expensive. This very necessary and useful event can be significantly reduced in price, because a significant part of the costs is the wages of installers. Having some skills in working with ordinary household tools, the home owner will be able to make the installation on his own, you should only carefully read the material below.
Types of plastic windows
First you need to choose the right window, which is not so easy to do, because these products are available in a very diverse design.
Number of leaves
Windows up to 1.5x1 m in size are usually made single-leaf, the larger ones are double-leafed, and the widest and tallest ones are three-leafed. In some cases, when the dimensions of the window go beyond the standards, there may be more sashes. "Multiple leaves" should be avoided if possible, since the partition between the leaves - the so-called impost - due to the peculiarities of the frame profile, is wide enough, especially if the leaves open.
The main units of the plastic window assembly
For example, in a tricuspid window, they reduce the glazing area by about 10%, moreover, they significantly increase the weight of the product. It is advisable to install windows in an apartment with no more than 2 sashes.
Sash type
The following options are available:
- Deaf. The simplest and lightest design, but blind windows are rarely used, since they are difficult to clean from the outside.
- Swivel (swing). These sashes open in the same way as the sashes of a conventional wooden window.
- Folding. The sash pivots relative to the lower horizontal edge, while its upper part is pulled out of the frame. Such an opening mechanism is simpler than a rotary one, but it is only suitable for ventilation. For the window to be conveniently cleaned from the outside, there must be at least one swing sash next to the hinged sash.
- Combined (swing-out). Today they are the most common. Thanks to the use of a complex mechanism, the sash, by turning the handle to one or another position, can be turned both into a folding one (in everyday life this is called the "ventilation mode"), and into a rotary one.
Different types of sashes can be present in one window unit
If there are several sashes in the window, they can be of different types. For example, in a tricuspid, the extreme leaves can be rotary or combined, and the middle one is deaf.
Number of chambers in the frame
In the process of making a profile, from 3 to 7 longitudinal cavities are formed in it - they increase the thermal resistance of the product. If the building is located in a region with a warm climate or it is unheated (outbuilding or garage, warehouse), a 3-chamber window can be installed in it.
In residential buildings in regions with a cold climate, it is necessary to install windows from a 5-chamber profile or at least a 4-chamber one.
Profiles with 6 and 7 chambers significantly exceed 5-chambers in cost and are heavier, but at the same time have almost the same thermal resistance, so they are not recommended to be purchased. It would be more rational to install a double-glazed window with a larger width.
Profile type by wall thickness
A profile of type "A" is intended for use in residential premises, in which the outer wall is 2.8 mm thick and the inner wall is 2.5 mm. In rooms where the microclimate is not so important, for example, in industrial ones, you can use windows from the profile of the "B" and "C" type with a smaller wall thickness.
Number of chambers in a glass unit
A glass unit can be assembled from 2, 3 or 4 sheets of glass, respectively, it can have one, two or three chambers. The more chambers, the higher the thermal resistance and sound insulation. In residential buildings today, in most cases, 2-chamber double-glazed windows are installed.
The most common are two- and three-chamber double-glazed windows.
3-chamber ones surpass them in thermal resistance and noise insulation insignificantly, but they cost and weigh much more, therefore they are not recommended to be purchased. 1-chamber double-glazed windows are used only on balconies, in various unheated buildings, shops, etc.
Speaking about the "intimate" windows, they can mean the number of chambers both in a double-glazed window and in a frame. Therefore, if we are talking about a 3-camera window, it is necessary to clarify which element contains three cameras.
We recommend paying attention to double-glazed windows with increased sound insulation, in which the glasses are installed at different distances from each other. It is selected so that the sound waves are damped by their own reflection.
Glass type
Today, along with ordinary glasses, energy-saving ones are used in metal-plastic windows. They have an absolutely transparent metal coating that reflects infrared radiation. Energy-saving glasses are also called I-glasses. The glass unit assembled from them is filled with an inert gas instead of air - argon, xenon or some other.
In combination with spraying, this gives an increase in thermal resistance by 10-15%.
Some unscrupulous manufacturers offer customers double-glazed windows filled with argon or xenon, but made of ordinary glass. Such insulating glass units are touted as energy efficient and are sold at a higher price. In fact, the difference in thermal resistance with a conventional "air" glass unit is a maximum of 2%. Therefore, when buying, check if there is a dusting on the glass.
Also, double-glazed windows are made of tinted, hardened (if damaged, they crumble into small safe fragments) glass, as well as triplex.
The form
Along with rectangular, triangular, trapezoidal, hexagonal, arched, round and oval windows are manufactured.
Plastic windows can have the most unexpected configuration - from simple geometric shapes to their bizarre combinations.
Frame appearance
The frame can be not only white, but also colored, as well as a laminated polymer film with a pattern imitating the texture of wood.
Types of plastic doors
Doors, like windows, can also differ in a number of parameters: purpose, types of door leaf and threshold, etc.
Appointment
By purpose, the doors are divided into:
- input;
- balcony;
- interroom.
External doors are insulated (made of a 5-chamber profile), often reinforced with steel sheet or grating. The profile wall is at least 3 mm thick.
External plastic doors are made with insulation and reinforcement with a metal lattice or sheet
In terms of heat and sound insulation characteristics, the balcony door does not differ from the entrance door, but it is less protected from burglary and has a mechanism that allows it to be kept ajar for the purpose of ventilation.
Balcony doors differ from the entrance doors by the presence of a mechanism that keeps them in the ventilation mode
The interior door is the simplest and cheapest. It has no insulation and no burglary protection.
The interior plastic door differs from the walking and balcony simplicity of the design
Canvas type
There are two types of canvas:
Double-glazed windows of two types are used in the doors:
- single-chamber: for interior doors;
- two-chamber: for external doors.
Threshold type
Metal-plastic doors can be equipped with thresholds of three types:
Opening method
There are many options available:
- Swinging: the sash turns about the vertical axis in one direction.
- Pendulum: the door opens in both directions.
- Carousel: revolves in a circle.
- Retractable: the canvas moves to the side, as if hiding in the wall or moving along it.
- Foldable: the canvas consists of several sections and can be folded like an accordion.
The sliding door leaf can hide in the wall structure or move along its surface
Strength class
There are three classes:
- class "A": the most durable doors;
- class "B": medium in strength;
- class "B": the least durable.
How to take measurements correctly
Before measuring the window opening, it is advisable to knock down the slopes in order to clearly see its boundaries. The fastest way is the knocking down performed by a perforator equipped with a special tool - a "shovel".
Having exposed the main material of the walls, measure the height and width of the opening. Measurements must be made at several points along the opening, after which the smallest of the obtained values is selected. In openings with a quarter, measurements are carried out along the outer side of the opening, that is, the distances between the edges of the quarters are taken off.
The dimensions of the window will depend on the type of opening:
- For openings with a quarter: the width of the window is determined by adding 3 cm to the width of the opening from the outside. The height of the window is taken equal to the height of the opening from the outside (that is, between the projections-quarters).
- For openings without a quarter: the width of the window is determined by subtracting two widths of the mounting gap from the width of the opening. The latter is 1.5-2 cm, therefore, you need to subtract 3-4 cm.
From the measurement of the width of the window opening, two installation gaps should be subtracted (in total, this value will be 3-4 cm)
The height of the window is calculated by subtracting the two mounting gaps and the height of the support profile from the opening height.
The height of the plastic window is determined by measuring the opening with subsequent deduction from the result of the height of the support profile and two mounting gaps
The width of the low tide and the window sill is selected based on how deep it is decided to place the window in the opening. Usually 1/3 of the wall thickness recedes from the outer surface of the wall. Then the width of the low tide will be 1/3 of the wall thickness + 5 cm.
The width of the window sill is calculated as follows: 2 cm is added to the distance from the inner surface of the window to the inner surface of the wall (by this amount, the window sill will start under the window) and also the width of the protruding part, which should be such that the window sill overlaps the heating radiator under it by half of it (radiator) width.
The optimal length margin for the window sill is 15 cm. The amount of the margin can be reduced, but not more than 8 cm. It should be borne in mind that the window will look less attractive.
The diagram is an illustration of the concepts of quantities involved in determining the dimensions of a plastic window, slopes and a window sill
To determine the dimensions of the door frame, you need to subtract two mounting gaps from the opening width (they have the same width of 1.5–2 cm), and only one from the opening height.
Video: how to measure the opening for a plastic window
Opening preparation
Immediately before installing the product, dismantle the old filling.
Dismantling old windows
It is performed in the following sequence:
- The platbands are dismantled, if any. There may be difficulties with the removal of fasteners. If nails were used in this capacity, you need to pry the platband with a nail puller or a thin chisel and pull it slightly towards yourself in order to slightly pull the nails out of the frame. If, after that, with a blow of a hammer, you return the platband to its place, the heads of the nails will stick out of it, so that you can grab them with a nail puller or pliers. When unscrewing the screws, the tip of the screwdriver must be pressed into the grooves on the head as much as possible so that they are not "licked".
- Remains of plaster on the slopes are knocked down by a perforator with the already mentioned "shovel".
- Next, the sashes are removed.
- Insulation and fragments of plaster are removed from the gap between the frame and the wall.
- The window sill is dismantled. The layer of cement mortar underneath is knocked down with a chisel.
- The frame mount is unscrewed, after which it is pulled out of the opening. You should not take care of the old window, as it is usually thrown away. Therefore, the frame can be cut if necessary.
Video: dismantling an old window
Dismantling old doors
Old doors are removed from the opening in the same way as windows.
Next, the opening must be cleaned of debris, paint and dust. In the doorway, the floor is also cleaned, since the threshold is an integral part of the metal-plastic door. The floor covering must be firmly attached to the base.
After that, the wall is treated with a deep penetration primer.
Video: how to dismantle an interior door
Tools and materials
To install a window and doors, you need to have the following tools:
- hammer drill or hammer drill, as well as drill bits for concrete and metal;
- screwdriver;
- level: bubble is only suitable when installing a door, for a window, you need to use a water (spirit level);
- plumb line;
- rubber hammer;
- pliers;
- knife or spatula.
The following materials will be needed:
- dowels or anchor bolts;
- a cylinder with polyurethane foam (if the installation is carried out in frost, you will need a special nozzle);
- special corners for window wedging (can be replaced with wooden blocks).
Self-installation of plastic windows
Before being installed in place, the sash and double-glazed windows must necessarily stand in an upright position, for which they are attached to the wall, laying cardboard on the floor. Elements can only be placed on a flat surface.
Window installation
Installation work is carried out in the following sequence:
- The pins are removed from the upper hinges of the flaps using a screwdriver or pliers (they must be taken from below), after which the flaps are removed from the hinges with an upward movement. From the blind window, you need to remove the glass unit by prying the glazing beads with a knife or spatula.
If the PVC window is equipped with opening sashes, they must be removed before installing the frame in the opening.
- The frame is marked with markings indicating the position of the fasteners. The optimal step is 40 cm, 15 cm should be retreated from the corners and impost.
- Having equipped the drill with a drill for metal, according to the marking, holes are drilled in the frame. You need to drill from the outside.
- The frame is installed in the opening, while plastic spacer wedges in the form of corners are laid between it and the ends of the opening (can be replaced with wooden blocks). It is advisable to place the wedges opposite the fastening holes.
The verticality of the frame is controlled by the level
- By adjusting the position of the wedges, set the frame so that the mounting clearances on all sides have the same width.
- With the help of a level and a plumb line, the frame is set in a strictly vertical position.
- Through the holes in the frame, markings are applied to the wall.
- After removing the frame, holes are drilled into the wall using a perforator equipped with a drill for concrete, holes for anchors or dowels with a depth of 6–10 cm. Sleeves of fasteners are installed in the holes.
- Reinstall the frame and screw in the fasteners. At this stage, you just need to make money.
The marking of the walls for fasteners is made through the already drilled holes in the frame
- Adjust the position of the frame using a plumb line and a water level, after which the fasteners are screwed down completely. It is impossible to screw in dowels or anchors with force, since they will bend the profile at the same time. It is necessary to stop as soon as the cap is hidden in the profile, or even when it protrudes from it by 1 mm.
- The doors or double-glazed windows are installed in place. It should be checked whether the sash opens easily, whether the hinges and other fittings work well.
- The opening and frame are sprayed with water. After that, moving from bottom to top, the gap between the frame and the opening is filled with polyurethane foam in a circular motion. Filling should be carried out in several steps, each time treating an area 25–30 cm long. With this approach, overruns of sealant will be eliminated (the polyurethane foam greatly increases in volume as it dries).
The gaps between the wall and the window frame are filled with foam
- From the inside and from the outside, the seams are closed first with a vapor barrier tape (from below it should be foil-clad), then with special strips.
A layer of polyurethane foam is protected on both sides with insulating material
Video: installing a plastic window in a panel house
Window sill installation
The window sill is screwed to the support profile after the window is installed.
The support profile is necessary for fixing the window sill and protecting the window from freezing
You cannot neglect the installation of the support profile, as some unscrupulous installers do. In this case, the window sill and the ebb will have to be screwed to the window frame, as a result of which its tightness will be broken. In addition, without a support profile, the window will freeze through.
The process of fixing the window sill is covered in detail in this article:
Installation of slopes
A window without slopes will look like an unfinished structure, through which, regardless of the number of chambers, cold will come from the outside and heat will go out from the inside of the room.
Upon completion of all work, the protective film is removed from the metal-plastic profile. You should not delay with this, since over time the film diffuses into the PVC-shell of the profile, as a result of which its removal becomes rather difficult. After installation, the metal-plastic window must not be opened for at least 16 hours, or better than a day.
Ebb installation
From the street side, you need to screw the drainage to the support profile with self-tapping screws. The junction must be absolutely waterproof, for which it is carefully treated with a sealant.
The edges of the drainage must be brought into holes several centimeters deep, specially cut into the wall using a perforator.
The procedure for installing drainage
To prevent the drainage from emitting a "drum" sound during the rain, it must be covered with polyurethane foam from below or pasted over with Linotherm tape or other noise-insulating material.
Video: mistakes when installing plastic windows and what happens to the foam
Installation of plastic doors
The installation of a metal-plastic door is made in almost the same order as the windows.
So you can schematically represent the type of construction of a plastic door
Door assembly
- The canvas is removed from the hinges.
- Holes for anchor bolts are drilled in the frame. There should be three of them on each side.
- They are determined with the depth of the door in the opening and screw 4 dowels into the walls - two at the top and two at the bottom. They will serve as limiters for the box, which will greatly facilitate the installation of this heavy element in the desired position. The dowels should be in the same vertical plane, therefore, the markings for the holes for them must be applied using a plumb line.
- The box is installed in the opening, abutting it against the limiters, and using wedges to give it the correct position: the mounting gaps on the right and left must have equal width, the racks must be located strictly vertically (controlled by a plumb line or level).
- Through the holes in the box, markings are applied to the walls, after which the box is removed and holes for anchors or dowels are drilled in the walls according to the markings. They need to drive sleeves for fasteners.
- Put the box in place and screw it to the walls. At first, the fasteners are only baited, and finally they are screwed after the box is level or plumb.
- The door leaf is installed in place.
- Fill the assembly gap with polyurethane foam.
- If the width of the installation gap exceeds 4 cm, then in order to reduce the cost of foaming (polyurethane foam is an expensive material), it is recommended to partially fill it with polystyrene, wooden slats, drywall or plywood.
Video: installation of a plastic door
Installation of slopes
Then the slopes are installed. The installation process looks like this:
- Cut off the protruding polyurethane foam.
- They clean the opening from plaster, paint, wallpaper, etc.
- Cracks and crevices are sealed with a cement-sand mortar.
- Remove the protective film from the metal-plastic profile.
- A frame is formed from wooden slats with a section of 20x40 mm, screwing it with dowels 6x60 mm to the wall.
- Parts with a shape and size corresponding to the slopes are cut out of plastic panels.
- The panels are screwed to the frame with self-tapping screws.
- The seams are coated with a sealant, the caps of the self-tapping screws are covered with a composition to match the color of the panel.
Now you need to remove the remnants of the protective film from the profile.
Instead of anchors for fastening windows and doors, you can use special mounting plates, which are embedded in the PVC-sheath of the profile with one side, and abut against the walls with the other. With this method of fastening, you do not have to drill holes in the profile, however, in terms of its strength, it is significantly inferior to fastening with anchors.
Features of installation in a wooden structure
Due to the shrinkage characteristic of wooden buildings, it is recommended to install metal-plastic windows in them at least one year after construction, or better after two. If the house is built from laminated veneer lumber, the holding time can be shortened, since this building material is made from well-dried wood and therefore gives very little shrinkage.
The window is first fixed in a wooden frame, knocked down from bars impregnated with an antiseptic, and then installed in this form in the opening. The frame serves as a protective frame to prevent deformation of the window in case of shrinkage of the building. To minimize the effect of this phenomenon, a gap of 3–7 cm is left between the wooden frame and the upper edge of the opening (depending on the moisture content of the wood and, accordingly, the expected amount of shrinkage). The gap is filled with jute insulation.
A wooden frame is attached to the opening with self-tapping screws.
Since the tree has some vapor permeability, the polyurethane foam used to seal the cracks must be protected from moisture. For this purpose, the wooden frame and the ends of the wall in the opening are pasted over with a tape of thin polyethylene foam covered with foil.
Before installing the metal-plastic door, the doorway must be equipped with a so-called window. It is also a timber frame and is designed to protect the door from the impact of the shrinking wall. In addition, the pillars of the window fasten the logs or beams, the connection between which after the device of the opening is somewhat weakened.
Okosyachka protects window and door blocks from deformations arising during the shrinkage of the log house
For the installation of the window in the side walls of the opening, vertical grooves with a section of 50x50 mm are cut with a milling cutter. Racks are inserted into these grooves. Next, boards with a thickness of 50 mm and a width equal to the thickness of the wall are nailed to them, located parallel to the walls of the opening.
A threshold made of a 100 mm thick T-profile bar is nailed from below, and a horizontal bridge (top) is nailed on top. The top should expand the racks, while a gap of 15 cm should be left between it and the upper wall of the opening. The gap is filled with jute insulation and pasted over on both sides with vapor barrier tape.
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Maintenance and operation rules
To make doors and windows last a long time, adhere to the following recommendations:
- The metal-plastic profile and fittings should be protected from dirt and dust during construction and repair work.
- Also, the profile must be protected from contact with hot metal particles during welding or cutting metal products with a grinder.
- Washing of a metal-plastic profile and a glass unit should be carried out using a soap solution or non-abrasive detergents, which do not contain acids and solvents.
- Particular attention should be paid to the door sill, which is most susceptible to contamination. When cleaning the room, it must be vacuumed.
- At the beginning of the warm season, the pressure of the metal-plastic door should be loosened, and at the beginning of the cold season, it should be strengthened. The clamp is adjusted by turning one of the screws on the door sheds. In total, each loop has three screws, each of which, when rotating, moves the blade along one of the mutually perpendicular axes.
Twice a year it is necessary to carry out maintenance, which consists of the following:
- all moving mechanisms are lubricated;
- the drainage holes located at the bottom are cleaned of dirt (except for interior doors);
- the condition of the rubber seals is checked, if contamination is detected, they are cleaned;
- rubber seals are rubbed with silicone greases (prevents rapid aging of the polymer).
For the lubrication of mechanisms, oils without acids and resins should be used. These are, for example, engine oil and petroleum jelly. For outdoor fittings, frost-resistant compounds should be used.
Due to the tightness, high thermal resistance and immunity to fluctuations in temperature and humidity conditions, metal-plastic doors and windows have now proven to be in great demand. But the installation of such structures is not much different from the installation of ordinary wooden counterparts. The instructions given in this article will help the user to independently cope with this task, as well as create conditions under which windows and doors will last as long as possible.
Nowadays, the trend of replacing old wooden windows with plastic ones is becoming more and more common. Such windows have a number of advantages that make them stand out from their competitors. As a rule, the installation of windows is carried out with the help of specialists who will cope with the task in a matter of hours. However, fast does not always mean good. Sometimes, in a hurry, craftsmen forget about various little things, which later have to be completed on their own. To avoid such a "professional" installation, you can install plastic windows yourself. The main thing is to paint a clear plan of action and follow all of its points.
Window measurements
The first step is to measure the width and height of the window opening. Width is the distance between the inside of the wall - the slopes. Height is the distance between the upper slope and the window sill. Based on the obtained dimensions, you can calculate the size of the window. From the resulting width, you need to subtract 3 cm (1.5 cm of the gap on each side). From the height, you need to subtract 5 cm (1.5 cm of the gap at the top and 3.5 cm for installing the window sill).
The size of the window sill and the external ebb is calculated taking into account a gap of 5-10 cm. During installation, both the window sill and the ebb are "recessed" into the window opening. The width of the window sill should be such that it does not overlap the heating radiator by more than 1/3. Slopes are measured immediately after the installation of the windows, since it is rather difficult to determine their size in advance.
Material selection
The selection of plastic windows is carried out according to several criteria at once. First, you need to decide on the principle of fastening the frame. It is of two types:
- through the frame in the packing plane;
- with the help of pre-assembled support fittings.
The first installation option is considered more reliable, but at the same time, and more complicated. The principle is to unpack the window. The glass is removed from the frame. Then the frame is inserted into the opening and attached to the wall with anchors. Double-glazed windows are reinserted into the finished frame. This method allows you to strengthen the window structure, however, during installation, the risk of damaging the glass increases.
The second way is to install windows without first unpacking them. In this case, metal plates are previously attached to the window frame, with the help of which the window is mounted in the opening. This method is quite simple, but the reliability is much lower compared to the first option.
Another criterion when choosing plastic windows is the quality of the material. First, pay attention to the reinforcing profile that serves as the basis for any window. It must be made exclusively of galvanized steel. If the window is made using a different metal, then in the future it will be covered with rust and red streaks will appear on the window.
The choice of the glass unit itself is no less important. For unheated premises, you can choose a single-chamber package, for an apartment, house or office, it is better to give the premises to two- or three-chamber models. The glass itself can be either simple or infrared coated. IR glasses, by the way, will be an excellent solution for windows that face east. Infrared rays are capable of reflecting heat, so even on the hottest summer days, the room will be comfortable.
Preparatory work before installation
Before installing a new window, you need to dismantle the old one. This is done in stages. First, the glass is removed from the window frame, after prying the glazing beads that hold it with a chisel. If this is not done during installation, the glass may break and injure you. Next, you need to cut the frame. This can be done both with a regular saw and with a grinder. However, it should be remembered that the grinder can be used only if there is a diamond disc or a disc for concrete. To avoid injury, it is strictly forbidden to use discs on wood and metal. Having cut the frame into pieces, you can begin to dismantle it, armed with a puncher, crowbar or nail puller.
The next step is to remove the old window sill and ebb tide. If they are wooden, then the same principle is used for dismantling as for the frame. The window sill or ebb tide must be cut into several parts and pulled out one by one. With a concrete window sill, things are a little more complicated. It can be removed only by first breaking it into parts with a jackhammer.
Having got rid of the old window, you can proceed to the finishing preparatory work. The window opening must be thoroughly cleaned of construction dust and debris generated during the dismantling process. This can be done using a conventional vacuum cleaner. It is also worth removing the remnants of the old insulation and polyurethane foam.
After all the work carried out, the surface of the window opening must be treated with a primer. Further, in the lower part of the future window, a so-called support profile is installed, to which the glass unit itself will be attached in the future. The profile is fixed with polyurethane foam.
Window installation
If the method with unpacking the double-glazed window was chosen to install the plastic window, the process will proceed as follows. The first step is to remove the glass from the window frame. To do this, carefully one by one, all the glazing beads are removed, thanks to which the glass is held. Then the glass is gently removed from the frame at a slight slope. After unpacking the glass unit, it is better to immediately remove the glass to another room, so as not to damage it during the installation of the frame.
To begin with, the window frame must be installed on pre-prepared wooden wedges. This is necessary so that the frame initially takes the desired position and does not move during installation.
Armed with a drill, holes are made in the frame for the anchor (three holes on each side). After drilling all the holes, make sure that the frame has not moved. To do this, you can use a plumb line and a laser level. It is better not to use a traditional bubble level, as it does not give the most accurate measurements.
After making sure that all indicators are normal, you can attach the window with anchors. To do this, using a perforator at the level of the holes already in the frame, you need to make a similar hole in the wall, at least 6 cm deep. Next, the anchors are fastened, starting from the bottom row. After each fixed anchor, the evenness of the window is rechecked.
At the stage of mounting the window frame, an ebb is also installed. It is attached to a support profile, which was pre-installed under the frame. The edges of the low tide need to be "drowned" a little into the wall, having previously made holes in it. At the end of the installation, all existing joints and cracks from the outside of the window are sealed with a sealant.
Having done all the above manipulations, glass can be inserted into the frame.
Installation of a plastic window without unpacking is carried out according to a similar principle. The only difference in this process is that the package is not parsed in this case, but is assembled completely. The fastening of the window structure is carried out without the use of anchors, but with the help of special plates.
As in the first case, the glass unit is installed on a previously prepared support profile and wooden wedges. The window is then aligned and level-checked. Plates made of durable metal are screwed to the window profile with self-tapping screws. They can be linear or U-shaped. The distance between the plates should not exceed 7 cm.
The plates have so-called tails with holes for anchors. During installation, the tails must be bent and pressed tightly against the wall. A dowel is inserted into the existing hole and mounted into the wall using a drill. In this case, the anchors are fastened from the bottom up. At each stage of screwing in the dowels, the window undergoes a leveling check.
Sill mounting
Installation of a plastic window sill begins with trimming it. The shape of the window sill should be such that it fits easily into the side openings and, at the same time, is in close contact with the lining profile. A small gap (about 1 cm) should be left between the side walls of the window box and the window sill, which will later be closed with slopes.
Having placed the window sill in the right way, you can proceed to its fastening. For this, several wooden wedges are inserted under the window sill, which will protect it from displacement. Then the space formed under it is filled with polyurethane foam or cement mortar. In this case, you need to put some kind of load on the window sill itself so that a slight slope forms. This manipulation is necessary to drain the condensate.
When the foam or mortar has hardened, the sill is attached to the window frame. This is done with self-tapping screws on the inside of it.
Slopes
The design of the slopes is the final stage of the installation of metal-plastic windows. They can be made either using drywall or using PVC panels.
Plasterboard slopes are beneficial in cases where the surface of the inner part of the window opening cannot be leveled. Such slopes are made as follows:
- a special L-shaped profile is attached to the edge of the window frame;
- the inner part of the profile is filled with sealant;
- pre-prepared strips of drywall are inserted into the grooves of the profile;
- the empty space between the wall and drywall is filled with mineral wool;
- the places of contact of the slopes with the wall are lubricated with glue.
Slopes made of PVC panels are mounted somewhat easier, but they should be used only on perfectly flat surfaces. This is done like this:
- strips of the required size are cut from PVC panels;
- using liquid nails, the workpieces are attached to the working surface;
- the ends and joints between the slopes are closed with special plastic corners.
Reading 7 min.
More recently, only wooden window frames were used in the glazing of residential buildings and industrial buildings. Today, many consider them relics of the past and are in a hurry to replace them with modern metal-plastic structures. Indeed, in addition to high performance, they are much cheaper than wooden frames. To install plastic windows with your own hands, you do not need to have superpowers. Almost anyone who can handle a tool can handle such a task.
However, do not forget that each job requires certain skills and craftsmanship. Lack of experience in installing windows can lead to a number of troubles. These are systematic breakdowns, a loose fit and high street air throughput into the apartment.
To avoid the above points, in this article we will provide step-by-step instructions that will help you install your windows correctly and efficiently. If you do decide to trust the professionals, be aware that some of them are not, in fact, and for a number of reasons, they openly neglect certain stages of proper installation (some save time, others - money). Having an idea of the work being carried out, you can easily exercise independent control over the entire process. And later you will enjoy the high-quality operation of your windows, which will bring joy to all family members.
The main steps for installing new windows:
- taking measurements;
- dismantling of old windows;
- preparation of openings;
- installation of a metal-plastic structure.
Not everyone knows that the manufacturer does not give absolutely any guarantee for their services in the case of installing windows on their own. Therefore, if various troubles arise during the installation process, do not rely on a refund or replacement. All metal-plastic structures are made strictly according to the previously agreed dimensions. In case of your mistake, the window may not fit in the opening or turn out to be much smaller. And it will only be your fault. The company's employees are solely responsible for the implementation of each stage of the installation of the product.
Also, any inaccuracy made when installing a metal-plastic window will deprive you and your loved ones of all the advantages of a modern design and the expected level of comfort.
Measurements of windows
Carrying out the necessary measurements, you need to pay attention to the fact that window openings exist with a quarter and without. Accordingly, they have different formulas for calculating sizes. 
For the first case, we must measure the width of the opening between the existing quarters, this is done at the narrowest point. And then add 3-4 cm to the obtained figures - this will be the width of our plastic frame. In addition, it is important to check: the largest distance between vertical quarters should not exceed the calculated block width.
Read also: "Karcher" for cleaning windows: features of use and advantages
The height is determined by measuring between the upper quarter and the lower surface of the window opening.
If the window opening is without a quarter, the desired values can be obtained by subtracting 5 cm from the vertical dimension (to put the window sill) and 3 cm from the horizontal one.
When determining the size of the window sill and low tide, it is worth considering the following details:
- Often the size of the window sill is chosen based on its functionality. It should cover the heating batteries and house flowers should be placed on it;
- Along the length of the window sill, the opening of the window is 8-10 cm larger, its edges should be drowned in the slope cavity by about 4-5 cm;
- The dimensions of the low tide are calculated taking into account the planned insulation. It is recommended to leave it protruding 5-10 cm from the wall.
Features of measurements of balcony windows
When calculating the width of the balcony windows, the length of the parapet is taken as a basis, the whole structure will rest on it. Also, on both sides, it is necessary to subtract 6-7 cm, which will be needed for the installation of the corner profile, with the help of it the window blocks of the front and side parts are connected. The distance from the roof to the railing, with the exception of a difference of 2.5-3 cm, which is important to set aside for the clearances for fastening, will be the height.
With regard to the side balcony frames, their dimensions are determined in the same way. The only thing is that you need to subtract 6-7 cm from the width for the installation of the corner profile, as well as 2.5-3 cm for the gap from the wall to the window.
Features of measurements of windows in private houses and buildings of the old fund
When measuring windows in private houses and buildings of the old fund, it is recommended to first beat off part of the slopes on both sides (at the measurement sites). This is done in order to see what the space occupied by the window opening is. It often happens that there are dilapidated cement mortar and various insulation materials that can crumble in the process of disassembling the existing window. The positive point here is that the new plastic structure can be slightly enlarged by expanding the cleaned window opening. 
Ordering a metal-plastic window
Before contacting a company with an order, you should think about what type of glass unit is right for you. It can be one-, two- or three-chambered. As for the fittings and fasteners, you can also choose them yourself.
With the technical characteristics of plastic windows that will be preferable for your home, the consultants of the manufacturer's company will help you figure it out at the time of ordering.
Some important points during installation
When installing windows on your own, you should pay attention to the following:
- the metal-plastic structure must be well fixed;
- the mounting foam, with which the windows were fixed, must be plastered on both sides (this will prevent its subsidence and deformation of the frame in the future);
- it is very important to align the structure vertically and horizontally using a level (this will help to avoid skewing).
How to install plastic windows with your own hands
Before starting the installation, prepare everything you need for work:
- Window frame with fasteners;
- Building level;
- Polyurethane foam;
- Crowbar;
- Grinder;
- Windowsill.
Window block preparation process
The preparation of the window is an important step in the installation work that you carry out with your own hands. If necessary, the double-glazed windows and hinged sashes themselves are dismantled from the window structure. To release the glass unit, a chisel is used, it is very carefully necessary to pry out the glazing bead (fastener) with it, and after a light blow on the tool, it will come out of the grooves. Then the vertical fasteners are removed, top and bottom. The freed glazing beads will need to be marked, sometimes their sizes can differ significantly, which will lead to the formation of gaps of several millimeters. The double-glazed window will come out of the grooves on its own if the frame is slightly tilted. Lean it gently against the wall, creating a small angle.