№PLD1 From 8700 per m / r
Modern, handrails or fences for cottages and houses, made of high-quality metal, are considered an excellent solution for equipping flights of stairs. Railings for stairs in a private house have a number of main advantages that make this group the most popular. The main purpose for the house (to ensure safe movement) such structures perform perfectly. The installation of railing structures entails some conveniences associated with the lack of special care for them, periodic painting. Railings for the house absolutely do not spoil the interior, they are its successful addition.
Railings and their main purpose
PLD №2 0t 7600r. Sv m/sq
Made of steel, differ:
· Durability.
· Practicality.
· Long service life.
Modern railings are not afraid of temperature changes and natural precipitation, mechanical damage. This type of house, successfully combined with various materials. The most common combinations of stainless products with wood and glass. This makes it possible to order products and give country stairs a beautiful appearance and an unusual style.
Railings can be installed on various bases
PDL No. 3 9000 rub. m/lin
We recommend buying a railing for a summer residence, they should be mounted at a height of at least ninety centimeters, and if there are small children, then it is recommended to increase this value by thirty centimeters. Installing the railing of stairs in a country house along the wall implies a four-centimeter distance, so that it is convenient to hold on to it with your hand while moving. If the width of the stairs in a private living space is less than a meter, then it is enough to install a railing on one side. In other cases, ladder, mounted on both sides. To ensure complete safety, you should adhere to the requirements of GOST, which determine the twenty-centimeter distance between the balusters. If there are children in the house, then this value is halved, an additional handrail is mounted at a height of half a meter. The beginning and end of the handrail should end with rounded protruding sections, the recommended diameter is about five centimeters.
How long to produce
Railings in the country, can be put on the edges or fixed with remote holders. In the second case, a handrail made of plastic material is often used. It can always be matched to the color scheme of the overall design. A plastic product is a great alternative to a wooden counterpart.
On the site you see a photo of the railing, we make them within 5 working days - these are inexpensive options. Installation of railings for stairs in the house is carried out within 2 hours. But, if the installation will be carried out by specialists.
Most often in the Capital they make an order for such railings for stairs to a house made of material - profiled metal. Such material does not look as advantageous as stainless steel, but it can be painted in any color, thanks to which it is possible to change the interior, the price attracts buyers.
What kind of railing do you want for stairs in a private house? If you do not know what you want, just call the measurer and designer and your wishes will be fulfilled. Specialists will make calculations and prepare a commercial offer, and you will receive modern railings for stairs in a country house.
best quality price
PDL №4 2800 rub. Per m / rm
Wire rope fencing
PDL №5 0t 6200 rub. m/lin
First, let's find out why we need a railing. First of all, for safe movement between floors, as they restrict access to the ledge of the stairs.
They come in different materials and shapes. Some are simple and comfortable, while others are comfortable and with some decoration. Let's consider these options in more detail.
Railings for stairs can be made of metal, plastic, wood or even concrete. But if we talk about handrails that you can do with your own hands, then we will limit ourselves only to metal and wood.
What are the basic rules for the design of railings?
- Height - more than 90 cm.
- Don't make the handrails too wide.
If there are small children in the house, then make them additional handrails just below those. And do not make the distance between the balusters wider than 10 cm so that the child cannot climb through there.
Now let's proceed to the choice of the material itself. And as we have said, the simplest and easiest options would be metal and wood. But now let's look at all the materials and in more detail.
Aluminum. At home, it is quite difficult to make a railing out of it, so in stores you can see ready-made individual inserts or all railings. Folding the structure will be easy, which is a big plus. But there are also disadvantages: the material bends with minor impacts, quickly scratches and corrodes over time.
Chrome railings. They, like aluminum ones, are sold in stores as separate parts or as a complete structure. The only disadvantage of such material is quick erasure.
Forged railings. It is very difficult to make such a design with your own hands at home, especially with the help of hot forging. Minus - the high cost of the material, the need for special materials, plus - the type of material, its unique forms.
Stainless steel railings. Such material does not fade, as it has a shine, which protects against abrasion. Such material is also quite expensive and for the manufacture of railings you will need the skills of a welder.
A kind of railing
As we said before, railings come in many different shapes and colors. That is exactly what we are going to talk about now.
Interior. Such stair railings are located indoors. This species is characterized by light colors, the material of which is often wood or glass.
Exterior. Such constructive stairs are located outside the building. Since such railings must withstand all weather well, they are mainly made of metal or concrete.
Remember that the shape of the railing depends on the material itself and on its quality.
So, if the room is in a classic style, then the railing material should be made of wood. Well, if the room is in high-tech style, then the railings can be made of metal. Glass construction is more suitable for modern style.
How to install railings?
Wrought iron railings are fairly easy to install. Initially, the steps are marked, height, length and general slope, as well as fasteners - this is necessary for the farrier, since forged railings are made in sections or entirely. Finished railings only need to be fixed at the previously marked fixing points.
Wooden railings are much more difficult to install because you need to assemble everything piece by piece.
First, support posts are installed on the highest and lowest step. They are fixed from below under the steps, bolts or self-tapping screws.
After that, balusters are installed - intermediate posts on each step are attached in the same way as the support posts.
The next step is to attach the railing bar to the posts, having previously leveled them with a building level, fastened with self-tapping screws, then the railing itself is attached to the railing bar, using self-tapping screws. They are screwed from the bottom up, so they are invisible.
Photo of the railing for the stairs
Railings are elements of the protective structure on the stairs. Handrails provide safety of movement at descent or rise on a ladder. Railings are distinguished by the variability of shapes and materials. Some designs are simple in appearance, safe and convenient. Some can become a real designer decoration, especially if the staircase is located indoors.
You can make railings for stairs from various materials: metal, wood, concrete, plastic. With your own hands, it is easiest to make barrage structures made of metal and wood. In the article you can find detailed information on how to choose the right material, process it and make beautiful and reliable stair railings.
The height of the protective structure must be at least 90 cm.
Handrails should be smooth and not too wide.
On narrow stairs, one side adjacent to the wall, one span of the fence is installed. If the flight of stairs is wide, it is recommended to install two protective structures.
If a steep or high staircase is installed in a house where there are small children, it is preferable to mount an additional low railing that the child can comfortably hold on to.
The distance between the balusters should be such that the child could not climb through the opening. Optimal -15-20 cm.
Handrails. This is the top bar located above the railing structure. It is for the handrails that people hold on when they go down. Handrails should be smooth, monolithic, so that it is comfortable to hold on to them.
Balusters. These are racks that are attached to steps or a bowstring (bearing element at an angle, located on the edge of the stairs). Balusters are attached to the structure through a certain length.
Cabinet. This is the end powerful rack, located at the end of the stairs. Handrails are attached to the cabinet.
Material selection
Aluminum. It is quite difficult to make a structure from this metal with your own hands. Most often, various fasteners and fencing elements are sold ready-made. Assembling the railing with your own hands from a set of parts is quite simple, the main thing is to choose a design and calculate the number of required parts. The material itself does not have high performance and properties, bends upon impact, scratches, fades, becomes covered with corrosion spots.
Chrome railings are also sold ready-made, the main thing is to correctly calculate and purchase all the necessary elements. The disadvantage of chrome parts is the rapid abrasion of the coating, especially if the stairs are located in crowded places.
Forged fences. Hot forging is predominantly factory work; it is very difficult to make hot forging fencing elements at home. Cold forging is a more doable job, with special tools you can make a railing with your own hands. Pluses - the multivariability of the design of the fence, cons - the rather high cost of the material, a special tool, the complexity of the technical process.
Stainless steel. The metal has a luster that does not tarnish. Railings for stainless steel stairs are strong, reliable, but for their construction by one's own hands, the skills of a welder and a metal carver are required.
Video - Installation of stainless steel fencing
Toolkit and material
Place for welding.
Metal profile and rolled metal products. It is desirable that the profile has a small cross section, so it is easier to cut it.
Welding machine, pack of electrodes, access to electricity, protective suit and mask.
Angle grinder with wheels for cutting and polishing metal.
Work order
First of all, the height of the railing and the distance between the balusters are determined. On the uppermost step, as well as on the lower one, pedestals are installed - elements that fix the entire structure of the fence. Pedestals should be thicker in diameter than balusters.
The height of the fence is calculated. The standard is 95 cm. But the railing frame should be raised 10 cm above the steps. It is also worth considering 5 cm per handrail. In total, 15 cm is subtracted from 95 cm and it turns out 80 cm. It is for this size that the metal profile is cut into pedestals and balusters.
If the frame length is 3 meters, then the transverse upper and lower profile, on which the balusters are attached between the pedestals, should also be cut into 3 meter elements.
Frame welding. A frame is laid out from the cut profile and slightly tacked by welding. You do not need to immediately tightly weld the elements; in case of marriage or skew, you will have to do extra work. The welded frame is reinforced: after 10 cm, balusters are welded. It is worth considering that the extreme pedestals should be at least twice as thick as the internal metal vertical lintels.
If the design fully complies with the standard and does not have distortions, you can proceed to finish welding of all elements. It is recommended to weld the seams on both sides so that the fence is as strong as possible.
After the frame is ready, columns with round or square plates with a height of 10 cm must be welded to the lower profile. Holes are drilled in the plates for fastening to the steps.
Refinement of the appearance of the structure
For this purpose, you need an angle grinder with a cleaning wheel. It is necessary to carefully polish all the remnants of welding: drops, growths.
Experts recommend giving a homemade product a beautiful and unusual look with the help of purchased forged items. Specialty stores offer a variety of forged accessories that can be welded to the frame lathing: a climbing vine with leaves, flowers, an ornament.
You also need to consider the type of handrails. Most often they are made from wood. Wooden blanks are rounded on three sides and carefully polished.
The first layer is a primer that will protect against corrosion. Then you need paint on metal. The color depends on individual preference, but black is most commonly used. Designers recommend giving chic to a homemade fence. For this purpose, patina is used - a material that gives the metal an old and noble look. Do-it-yourself metal railings are ready.
The choice of wood for construction
Pine. This material is quite affordable and is very often used in construction. Pine is soft, its wood has an uneven structure, due to which, when painting, the covering material is absorbed with different intensity. Works well, withstands changes in temperature and humidity.
Birch. Dense and durable material, practically without knots. Well processed, polished. But, wood has a number of disadvantages: it is prone to decay, it cracks when temperature and humidity change.
Beech. In terms of physical characteristics, this wood is in no way inferior to oak. But, overdrying the beech is not recommended. A layer of wood at low humidity breaks along the fibers, which leads to damage to the elements.
As in metal structures, handrails, balusters and cabinets are distinguished in wooden structures. But, in wood products, balusters are not only a supporting element, but also a decoration of the structure. Most often they are made of glued laminated timber and are machined in the form of columns of various shapes.
Milling of balusters consists in cutting helical patterns on the surface of the elements.
When turning on the elements, you can see several combined geometric shapes: balls, squares, rectangles, etc.
Video - Do-it-yourself railing for stairs. Installation of curly balusters and handrail installation
Hand-cut balusters are a true work of art. Patterns, ornaments and much more are carved on the surface of the parts. Some wood carvers make these elements in the form of animal figures.
Flat balusters are boards on which patterns are cut. This is the easiest way to decorate stairs with your own hands.
As described above, the standard and safe height of the structure must be at least 95 cm. The width of the handrail is 5 cm, the distance between the steps and the fence is 10 cm. As a result, the height of the balusters is 80 cm. 15 cm, 30-35 mm thick.
To create a carved and beautiful fence, the planks need to be shaped. Specialists who have mastered the lathe can cut out the thread on the ends of the board with the help of equipment. If the machine is not available, then a hand-held power tool, for example, a jigsaw, is used.
To do this, on paper or cardboard, you need to draw a template that has real dimensions. Then, using a pencil, circle the template on each board and cut out the shape according to the marks. After all the balusters have acquired the desired shape, it is necessary to carefully process the ends, clean them with fine-grained sandpaper and polish to a shine.
Flat balusters, unlike wooden curly posts, are not recommended to be attached to the steps. The fence will be unreliable and shaky. Elements must be mounted on a transverse beam, which is located 10 cm above the bowstring. It turns out that the handrail, the lower beam and the upper and lower pedestals form a frame into which you want to insert flat balusters.
You need to fasten the crossbars after 15 cm, but no more. Two types of connection can be used - in grooves and on metal studs. If the balusters will be inserted into the grooves, then on the lower part of the handrail and on the upper end of the transverse beam, grooves must be machined, 2 cm deep. The length of the recess should be equal to the width of the baluster.
Do not forget about the slope of the stairs. It is worth knowing that the lower ends of the balusters should be even, but the upper ones should be cut at the angle of the stairs. It is on the cut ends that the handrail will be attached.
Balusters are attached to metal studs if it is not possible to mount a transverse beam. In this case, there will be no gap of 10 cm between the cross beam and the steps. The height of the balusters in this case should be 90 cm. The baluster is attached to the step with one pin, in the process of work it is important to attach the element evenly, without distortions. For these purposes, you can use the angle.
After all the protective elements are attached to the steps, you can mount the handrail. For it, a bar is used, which is rounded on three sides and carefully polished.
The last step in creating a wooden railing for a staircase is finishing. To do this, you can use acrylic paints, varnish, stain.
A beautiful staircase with your own hands is ready.
A country house is a multifunctional and important part of the staircase structure as a whole, which should not only ensure safety when climbing up, reliably protecting it from falling, but also be aesthetically attractive, harmoniously and naturally fitting into the overall stylistic concept of the room.
A railing is a fence of flights of stairs, which, on the one hand, protects the person ascending (descending) from falling, and on the other hand, they serve as a support during ascent, which is especially important for the elderly. The design of the fence consists of the following elements:
- balusters- these are the support posts to which the handrail is attached. They perform both a practical (bearing) function and a decorative one.
- handrails - an element used when moving up the stairs as a support. They can be installed on two or one side of the flight of stairs, while they can be attached both directly to the wall and to balusters
- fence fillers - an element that fills the space between the balusters. Often they perform an exclusively decorative function and in some designs, especially in modern styles, fillers are generally abandoned. However, if there are children in the house, they are mandatory for installation - their presence significantly increases the safety of moving up the stairs.
According to current regulations and standards, the minimum height of the handrail on the stairs must be at least 90 cm. If the width of the stairs exceeds 1.25 m, handrails must be installed on both sides.
Advice! If there is a child in the house, then the distance between the balusters is selected so as to exclude the possibility of sticking your head between them.
Railings for stairs: we select the material
If the design of the staircase is simple in execution and there are no special design requirements for the railing, then they can be made from simple materials. Another thing is a staircase of an exclusive design or which acts as a central detail, carrying the main decorative load in the interior - here the railing will have to meet increased requirements. Otherwise, the simplicity and unpretentiousness of the design of the railing will spoil the whole effect. Therefore, it is important to choose the right material from which the railing for the stairs will be made (photos provide an opportunity to compare different options). At the same time, it is important to observe two rules - compliance with style and unconditional compliance with security requirements.
metal railings
A very popular option, in no small part due to the large number of options - from simple, minimalist, consisting only of posts and railings, united by welding, to very complex designs. They can be made of steel, iron, aluminum, as well as in combination with other materials - glass, PVC, wood. You can use any kind of metal profile - from fittings and simple pipes to profiles with a complex pattern. They are very strong, resistant to dynamic and static loads - even the thinnest handrails can withstand a lot of pressure. They can be used both indoors and outdoors. At the same time, the railing for the metal staircase (the photo will serve as proof of this), in addition to the main one - the protective one, does an excellent job with the decorative function.
Wrought iron railing
They are often installed to emphasize the chosen style of decorating the room, so they are most often used in the style of rococo, baroque and traditional classics. In addition to elegance and beauty, forged elements look elegant and sophisticated, which is often lacking in wood fragments. Typically, such railings are easy to perceive, visually “transparent”, thus the staircase does not absorb space. Forged railings on the stairs will get additional charm if you use the finish in the form of gold, silver or platinum
Stainless steel railing
Perhaps the most reliable and durable, primarily due to manufacturing features. Such railings are usually made by welding, i.e. they are not collapsible, therefore they are able to withstand very large loads. In addition, they are durable - a stainless coating will reliably protect the metal from corrosion, plus periodic tinting is not required. Stainless steel railings will harmoniously fit into modern (hi-tech, minimalism) interiors.
wooden railing
Wood remains one of the most sought-after materials in home construction. First of all, it is environmental friendliness, attractiveness and affordability of the so-called "non-elite" types of wood. It is also important - the tree is tactilely pleasant to the touch, so very often, even if the railings and balusters are made of metal, handrails are installed from wood. Even with minimal processing, the tree looks very attractive.
The natural beauty of wood makes it possible to obtain attractive combinations using various forms of frame racks. The possibility of high-tech processing of wooden blanks provides an opportunity to get a handrail for stairs made of wood (the photo below will serve as confirmation) of an unusual shape. At the same time, the attractiveness of the design will in no way affect the fulfillment of safety requirements.
PVC handrails are indispensable if the country railings are installed on the street. They are very durable, do not rot, corrode, fungus or mold, wash well. Plastic can be chosen in almost any color, so that the railing fits into the interior / exterior as harmoniously as possible. In addition, they have a non-slip structure - in this case, this is very important.
Now glass railings are gaining popularity. Despite the outward simplicity and fragility, they are very reliable - only tempered glass or triplex is used. If you use absolutely transparent glass, it will help to visually enlarge the room - passing light through itself, it will create a feeling of lightness and weightlessness. Glass with a pattern, stained glass or tinted glass will add uniqueness to the interior, and the railings themselves will become a bright and attractive accent.
Today we will consider the issue of fastening balusters and railings when arranging wooden stairs. Even a person who is not tempted by the intricacies of carpentry understands how rich and noble the appearance of wooden stairs is, how difficult they are to manufacture and install.
Calculation and production of parts
The fencing of a wooden staircase consists of three key elements:
- Railings - horizontal or inclined elements for which a hand grip is carried out.
- Balusters - vertical supports between steps and railings.
- Pillars or pedestals - vertical racks against which the ends of the railing rest. Usually the pillars have chiseled or carved heads.
The details of each group are made individually, after which they are assembled at the installation site. Pillars and balusters are made mainly by turning, and railings - by milling.
It is necessary to start the calculation of the fence from the railing, including straight and curved segments. In general, the configuration of the railing is determined by the shape of the stairs in plan. For the base in the calculations, the outer edges of the steps are taken, the railings are located with some indentation from them to the center of the flight of stairs. The offset is necessary so that the fulcrum of the pillars and balusters is not located on the very edge. The amount of indentation is determined by the section of the supports, plus some arbitrary value is added, which is dictated by aesthetic considerations. It is also necessary to take into account such specific circumstances as the overlap of spans in the plan, achieving a symmetrical indent on adjacent flights and at the same time maintaining the width of the passage as much as possible.
In space, individual parts of the railing can be located strictly horizontally and under the general slope of the stairs. Calculation of the length and dimensions of the horizontal segments can be done by displaying the railing sketch on the stair plan drawing. Inclined elements are calculated in a similar way, but to calculate their actual length, it is necessary to divide the projection length by the cosine of the angle at which the flight of stairs is inclined relative to the horizontal normal.
When calculating pillars and balusters, several requirements apply, the most important of which is the height of the fences. According to GOST, the railing of stairs must rise above the plane of steps by at least 90 cm in residential buildings and at least 120 cm in public institutions and on street flights of stairs. The axial profile of the pillars and balusters can be arbitrary, but there are certain requirements: the thickness of the pillars in the plane of the support must be at least 10% of their height, the balusters can be 2-2.5 times thinner. The length of the balusters should be equal to the height of the fence + 7-10%, while in the base part a uniform profile (preferably faceted) should be maintained for a length of at least 5% of the total. Pillars are made in the amount of at least two for each flight of stairs, the number of balusters is equal to or twice as high as the number of steps.
The width of the railing in the plan should be less than the thickness of the faceting of the pillars in the junction zone by approximately 30-50 mm and more than the thickness of the balusters by 15-20 mm. The milling profile can be arbitrary, but the rounded top with two longitudinal necks for a more secure grip is considered the preferred option. The length of the handrail segments should have an allowance of 50-80 mm on both sides for cutting and fitting.
Pre-assembly and preparation for installation
Before starting the installation of the stairs, it is necessary to pre-assemble the straight segments of the railing on the adhesive joints. The spatial arrangement of the handrails is a guide for calculating the attachment points of the vertical elements of the fence. Since the railing is precisely machined and has a flat bottom edge, it is convenient to use it as a straight rail for further marking.
Sometimes, at the corners and turns of flights of stairs, the distance between flights forces the installation of short handrail inserts between the posts. Depending on the configuration of the stairs, these sections are assembled either from one or more radius segments, or from linear segments. The railing elements are prepared and glued in advance, the connection is made on hidden domino-type spikes, or on 2-3 cylindrical dowels.
Also, before starting work, wooden dowels for fastening balusters and pillars should be stocked in the right amount. It is also desirable to cut the poles themselves to size: if this could not be done in the workshop, then due to the significant section, processing with a miter saw is not possible. It is better to mark the perimeter of the base part under the square, making sure that the end of the last line coincides with the beginning of the first. Trimming is carried out along this line with a hand saw with a fine tooth, it is advisable to alternately go deeper into each face by 3-5 mm. For greater certainty, you can fix the limit rail with clamps.
Marking and fastening of pillars
The posts are the base for positioning the entire stair railing. They are located on each upper and lower step of each flight of stairs. If there are intermediate platforms, including turning ones, this rule must also be observed. At the same time, the uppermost post may be common for railings and balustrades.
Factory poles are of two types: solid and box-shaped, that is, glued from strips of thick plywood or wood panels. It is very important that each post has a straight edge at the junction of the handrails, because in the case of docking with a round support, factory trimming of the railing edges is required, which greatly complicates the installation process.
Hollow pillars are fastened through a boss - a 150-200 mm piece of timber, the outer dimension of which corresponds to the cavity of the pillar as much as possible. The boss is attached through a through axial hole by means of a pin screwed into a step or platform. This method of fastening allows the column to rotate around its axis and a small transverse play for its precise positioning. The gluing of a hollow column is carried out on a glue of a thick consistency, the lower end is preliminarily lubricated with a small amount of sealant, this belt around the perimeter will prevent excess glue from being squeezed out.
A - box-shaped pole with fastening through the boss. B - one-piece pole with fastening on a dowel. 1 - pillar; 2 - base; 3 - plinth; 4 - hairpin or anchor; 5 - dowel
Monolithic pillars are fastened to one large (20-30 mm) dowel or to several small ones evenly distributed over the support area. With this method of fastening, it is desirable that the junction of the post to the site be framed by a plinth, which helps to hide the adhesive seam and increase the plane of support. If there is a skirting board, you can also use the tie-down method for cabinet furniture, since the niches for the nuts will eventually be hidden anyway.
Alignment of pillars is better with parallel standing pairs, that is, at intermediate platforms where flights of stairs converge. The distance between the posts should provide a sufficiently large gap between the lower handrail and the steps of the upper march. In the longitudinal direction, the position of the pillars is determined by two long straight slats laid on the edges of the steps of converging marches. The plane laid out through the line of intersection of the rails is the ideal position for installing the posts. If necessary, they can be moved towards the spans, but not back, otherwise the railings will overlap. When paired poles are positioned on platforms and turns, the end ones are marked according to the same principle, it is important here that the pairing with the railing is performed at the same height.
Trimming, installation of balusters
Looking ahead, we note that the sequence of fastening the balusters to the steps, to the handrails, as well as the handrails themselves to the pillars, can be different depending on the method of assembling the fence. Previously, all balusters must be cut and mark the places of their fastening.
The bottom of the balusters is best mounted on dowels with zero tolerance by drilling the steps to a depth of 20 mm. To mark the centers of the holes, it is necessary to shoot a vertical plane parallel to the end of the steps with a laser level. If the balusters are installed in the amount of one piece per step, it is enough to find its middle using a square, based on the riser. When installing balusters in pairs, it is necessary to achieve their uniform pitch, for which the protrusion of the upper step above the lower one is beaten off with a square, and the remaining “clean” width is divided so that the centers of the balusters are 1/4 of the resulting segment from the edges.
When installing balusters, it is important to keep their heads strictly on the same line.
Balusters with a figured profile should be aligned in length with respect to the handrails. To do this, they are laid out on a flat plane, combining the profiles along their widest part. Further, a line is drawn under the long straight rail, which serves as a marking for trimming at a right angle.
An oblique cut of the top of the balusters is carried out on a miter saw or in a precision miter box. Trimming of balusters is carried out in groups for each flight of stairs. First you need to determine the actual slope of the stairs by laying a rail on the edges of the steps and beating the horizontal axis along it with a laser level. According to this markup, with the help of a bevel, a template is made, according to which the saw turntable is fine-tuned.
Before oblique trimming, centering holes are made at the ends of the balusters, their depth should be sufficient to deepen the dowel at least 40 mm after trimming. In the lower part, drilling is carried out after trimming the balusters along the length. It is quite simple to do this: first, dry and strictly vertically, two extreme balusters of each span are installed, which are temporarily fastened together with a regular rail with a straight edge aligned with the upper edge of the oblique cut. Then, one by one, the balusters are put in their place, the excess length is determined with a caliper and the lower end is cut, if necessary, deepening the center hole and be sure to number the parts.
Handrail fastening
The handrail can be attached to the posts by various methods, among which the most popular are fixing on spikes or self-tapping screws with making through holes. The first method is more time consuming and often spiked mounting cannot be done without a groove router with fine adjustment of the inclination of the sole. In the second case, installation is easier, but mounting holes remain on the backs of the pillars, which must be closed with decorative plugs.
Railing with railing
Fastening railings to balusters is done in two ways. Simple - by railing and a little more complex - on wooden dowels. The choice of mounting method depends entirely on the profile of the handrail: when fixing to an intermediate rail, a rectangular groove must be selected at the appropriate depth at the bottom of the product. The handrails for mounting on dowels should also have a groove equal to the width of the base part of the balusters, but it is intended solely for masking the attachment points and should have a depth of 5-7 mm.
The final assembly of the fence, as mentioned, can take place in a different sequence. When attaching to the railing rail, first balusters are glued to the steps on the dowels, after which the rail is mounted, and then cutting and fastening the railings with self-tapping screws from below. When installing balusters on dowels and fastening handrails to poles with self-tapping screws, all railings are first glued, while drilling in them must be carried out with a tolerance: in this case, landing on liquid nails will allow for more accurate alignment. If the balusters are attached to the dowels, and the posts to the handrails - with a spike connection, the pedestals are installed last, which requires the simultaneous positioning of all elements of the stairs in a short glue setting time.
Handrail finishing
As a rule, railings of wooden stairs are assembled from already primed and painted parts. In such cases, it remains only to disguise the places where the railings are spliced, where they adjoin the pillars and balusters to the steps, where gaps up to 1-1.5 mm thick can form. To fill the gaps, you can use an acrylic sealant or wood paste based on natural wax.
If the wooden parts do not have a protective coating at the time of assembly, the gaps in them are sealed with wood putty, and then the entire fence is primed and painted along with the stairs. It is recommended to apply two coats of a transparent water-soluble primer, followed by fine sanding to remove the raised pile. Next, the steps are covered with stain or azure in 2-3 layers. It is recommended to choose two coats of transparent polyurethane varnish as the main protective coating.