It would seem that this topic has long been disclosed in detail in the literature and magazine publications, but practice shows that not all summer residents competently arrange compost heaps on the site. But a rational approach to obtaining high-quality fertilizers is the key to a good harvest of environmentally friendly vegetables and fruits in the garden and in the garden. We appreciate expert advice.
For successful growth and development, plants absorb a whole complex of i substances from the soil. Plants have the greatest need for nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K) - according to their importance, these components are called macronutrients. Nitrogen promotes vegetation (growth of tissues), phosphorus - flowering and fruiting, potassium - resistance to diseases. But macronutrients enter the plant body not in their pure form, but in the form of salts, acid residues or oxides.
Another group of elements is more extensive and has about 20 components required for plants in smaller quantities. They are called micronutrients. These are sulfur, magnesium, calcium, iron, cobalt, manganese, boron. copper and others. They also enter plants in the form of salts or oxides and play a huge role in regulating physiological processes.
The life cycle of any organism begins at birth and ends at death. And then there is the problem of disposal of organic residues. In nature, representatives of microflora and microfauna cope with this - bacteria, fungi, microscopic soil arthropods and worms, which, according to the apt remark of I. V. Michurin, are “shors of soil fertility”. Soil microorganisms convert complex organic substances into simple ones available to plants - this process is called composting.
fertilizers
The soil always has some level of fertility, a certain nutritional value. With its extensive use for agricultural needs, natural fertility was restored by itself. But as soon as crops with higher yields than wild plants appeared, the natural fertility of the soil began to decline sharply, and in order to maintain it on high level needed to apply ib fertilizer.
The most widely used organic fertilizers were manure, peat, silt (sapropel) and compost. Mineral fertilizers began to be widely used 100 years ago, but their effectiveness is lower compared to organic fertilizers, and the harmful effects on the soil are higher.
When making organic fertilizers composting processes begin in the soil. It is clear that they go at different speeds. So, fresh manure will take a long time to compost, and it will even burn the roots. Therefore, before making it, they give it to lie down, to perepret. Peat, mainly consisting of sphagnum residues, strongly acidifies the soil - it needs to be allowed to weather, it would be nice to deoxidize it with lime or dolomite. Sapropel is not bad, but where can you get it in large volumes and cheaper? Here is the compost...
Compost is completely rotted and decomposed organic residues. Compost is rich in nitrogen, and with a reasonable addition of phosphorus and potash fertilizers, it becomes a universal complex organic fertilizer. Unlike manure, compost does not contain weed seeds - they also decompose. And unlike peat, compost does not acidify the soil - therefore, it does not lead to its salinization during deoxidation. And the nutritional value of compost is lower compared to peat.
But traditionally, manure was used to fertilize the soil for crops, it was both simpler and easier. Actually, compost as an organic fertilizer appeared only with the development of greenhouses and botanical gardens, which received overseas outlandish plants with special requirements for soil quality.
Compost is not garbage
Gardeners and gardeners conjured over the quality of soil substrates, adding certain components with pharmaceutical precision. Probably, then various types of compost appeared - leaf, sod, field mixed herbs, straw.
The main composting system was developed - a system of two piles, when compost was constantly transferred from one place to another, loosened, spilled with water for better overheating. In this case, annelids and dung worms were of great help, which were lured or planted in compost heaps. All this can be read in old agrarian-themed books, and in more modern training manuals for greenhouses.
But already 50 years - as cut off: they began to treat compost as a garbage dump.
Where this came from is not clear. Reputable publications reprint recommendations of this type: all organics, plant residues, garden tops, paper, kitchen slops, toilet waste are composted. And all this - in a pile somewhere in the backyard, so that it does not stink and is not an eyesore. When you see such compost, it becomes disgusting. And they carry everything there, including milk bags, shells, chicken bones, newsprint. But this rubbish will fall under the plants - and they will begin to draw juices from it and send them to the fruits and berries that we will eat! Disgusting...
The right compost
Maybe limit yourself to mineral fertilizers? Or just use manure? Yes, of course, if the "compost" is just that - garbage. However, as an agricultural specialist, I garden plot I will not use manure, but rather make the right compost.
Why? Firstly, a large amount of weed and fodder seeds (which are also considered as weeds on the lawn) are introduced with manure. And secondly, composted turf and fallen leaves from my yard are the best fertilizer the length of my plants than manure brought from God knows where.
As already noted, the traditional composting system is a two-pile system. It is clear that in this case you cannot push the compost somewhere into the gap between the barn and the fence, you need to manipulate it, you need to freely approach it, drive up with a wheelbarrow. Pits for obtaining good compost are completely unacceptable.
A disservice to novice gardeners is rendered by box models of composters with a lower cesspool. According to the designers, the organic remains are poured into a certain volume, rot, overheat, and from below, through the slot-hatch-door, ready-made compost is poured out or raked out. The gardener-gardener only needs to get the lower rotted layer of compost with a shovel, after which the still unrotted layers will sink down. I would like to ask; and before that they hung in the air, what pi? In reality, as soon as you open the bottom door of such a composter and rake off the finished compost, undecomposed residues immediately fall in its place, preventing further excavation.
There is no space in this article to talk about correct system composting in a box, its model and volume. But what is often sold under the guise of a compost bin is difficult and inconvenient to operate. Over time, the gardener acquires another of the same box - and everything returns to the system of two piles. But then it is logical to make a two-section composter ourselves. And making it is not difficult.
Where to place the composter
Optimally - closer to the garden, in an easily accessible place. Preferably in the shade, then the compost will not dry out. And so that the composter does not an eyesore, you can plant a screen of fruit bushes, viburnum, hawthorn. Crops such as Jerusalem artichoke, horseradish, sorrel grow well next to the compost heap, and even a pumpkin grows well on a more or less equipped garden bed.
What and how to make a composter
The simplest and most tested composter model is a two-section one. In fact, these are the same two heaps, only fenced with walls. The size of the projection of one section is approximately 1 * 1 m. Doing less will not turn around, too large (up to 2 m) is inconvenient, and they take up a lot of space. Instead of a square projection, you can make a rectangular one, there are no strict criteria here. The power base of such a composter is represented by 6 vertical bars (stalls, pipes) installed in pairs in a row: 4 at the corners of the composter and 2 between the sections. The back and side walls are closed. The material can be cutting boards, lining, slate, aceite. The walls must have a certain strength so that they do not fall out under the pressure of the loaded grass and leaves. Sometimes it is recommended to cover the walls with a mesh - say, a chain-link. This is acceptable, but such compost will dry out quickly and must be shed, especially if the summer is dry.
Quickly cooled material (slate, aceite, brick, concrete, iron) is critical with the onset of cold weather and frost. Although bacteria and fungi warm up the composted mass, they reduce their activity at night temperatures below +5°C. Wooden structures contribute to maintaining the internal temperature of the compost. Of course, there is a danger of rotting wooden walls.
But my composter, made from the waste of an untreated lining, has been standing for more than 15 years, and when it rots, I will make a new one. If the tree is processed, then its service life will be longer. In addition, it is convenient to assemble removable and collapsible front and intersection walls from the boards. Why collapsible? Because when laying a large volume, for example, a lawn cut, the walls must be high, and when the compost settles, part of the wall can be disassembled. When the compost is ready and it is removed from the section, the wall is completely dismantled.
Culture of bacteria
In the system of two heaps, the compost was regularly shifted, turned, and sometimes manure, ash, and peat were added. Such manipulations are permissible in a system of two sections, but in the presence of a culture of composting bacteria, they are unnecessary.
Science is constantly moving forward, and it is strange to refuse its achievements. You should not avoid the use of agricultural innovations even in such a seemingly insignificant matter as composting. The culture of specially bred bacteria allows the most efficient processing of organic residues. It is affordable, inexpensive, and lasts a long time. Bacteria work most successfully on a homogeneous material. For example, lawn chaff loaded into the composter section to a height of about 1.5 m, one week after adding the bacteria culture, settled in half. And after 2.5-3 months the compost was ready. While without the addition of bacteria, the compost rots for more than six months.
THE BOTTOM OF THE COMPOSTER DOES NOT NEED TO BE COVERED - THE NUTRIENTS LEAKING FROM THE COMPOSTER INTO THE GROUND FERTILIZE THE SOIL 1-2 M AROUND THE COMPOSER. ALSO IN AN EARTH FIELD, EARTHWORMS WILL EASILY GET INTO THE COMPOST.
Well, why does the composter have two sections, if composting is going so fast? Simply because it is impossible to use up all the old compost in a short time, and the new mass for composting needs to be put somewhere. So it turns out: in the spring you open a section with compost; not overgrown grass and foliage, collected in autumn for frosts, are thrown into an empty section; you gradually use up the finished compost, and put the new mass into the empty section, add bacteria and, over time, add more herbs. In practice, the old compost is completely consumed already in the fall, when it is mulched and covered with its remains. fruit bushes. As a result, the composter enters the winter with one section filled and one empty.
How and what to put in the composter
I think I convinced you that no slop or toilet waste should be added to the composter. Lignified branches, strong grassy stems - also not worth it, as they will decompose slowly. It is better to burn them - and add them to the compost already in the form of ash. Wood chips and shavings consume a large amount of nitrogen during decay. When composting them, nitrogen should be added in the form of mineral fertilizers or fresh nitrogen, and it is better to burn shavings and sawdust and add it in the form of ash or coal.
Succulent herbs are most successfully composted. And if we are talking about compost as a valuable organic fertilizer, then it must meet this definition.
For the correct preparation of compost, use a homogeneous grass mass chopped by a lawn mower in the mulching mode or fallen leaves. Mowed unchopped grass requires strong moisture and tamping. It is optimal to lay it in layers 20-30 cm thick and sprinkle with urea or ammonium nitrate (2-3 handfuls per 1 m 2). It is good when such a layer of grass is covered with a cut.
As lawn grass mowed throughout the warm season and periodically added to the composter, then its layers can also be sprinkled with mineral fertilizers, for example, complex, and ash. Compost must be watered (10-20 liters per 1 m 2 of area) and covered with a film.
Also read a very detailed article on composting: Correct fit fruit tree...
We prepare biopreparations ourselves
How to make a preparation from effective microorganisms yourself for garden treatment?
About store-bought EM preparations a year ago, I already wrote the following:
“... Forming the right plant-microbial community is akin to connecting a computer to the Internet. The capabilities of the computer immediately increase many times over. Symbiotic fungi and bacteria in the rhizosphere secrete antibiotics, thus suppressing pathogenic microflora. This is one of the secrets of fantastic results from high-quality rhizosphere flora stimulants.
Dozens of laboratories around the world study symbiont fungi and produce drugs based on them, competing with each other and proving that their drugs are the best.
This way, in my opinion, is the most promising. After all, we are not “spurring on the plant with a whip”, but we are helping the plant to enter into symbiosis with soil biota, which is what we would like if we are adherents of organic farming.
In our country, preparations based on rhizosphere stimulants are little known to most gardeners, they know and use mainly the Baikal EM type.
But why are EM drugs rare in Western markets? What do foreigners write about them?
“... The first widely promoted drug was created in Japan in the 80s by prof. Terio Higa. Initially, the drug was created to loosen the soil in gardens and reduce soil toxicity.
The preparation initially included 3 groups of microorganisms that could be propagated by co-cultivation: yeast, lactic acid bacteria (lactobacilli), photosynthetic bacteria. Then, up to 3 types of microorganisms were added to different composites. The statement of some about 80 types of microorganisms in the preparation is nothing more than a fairy tale.
The Japanese drug turned out to be multifunctional, it began to be used as a probiotic - by adding it to the drink of animals, to eliminate odor in livestock buildings, for composting and, finally, to decompose crop residues by spraying them with subsequent incorporation. Based on the Japanese Kyussei, many domestic preparations have been created with the same triad: lactic acid, yeast, photosynthetic bacteria, but they are much poorer in strain diversity - usually one strain of each species.
Many drugs that appeared a few years ago under different names (the first Baikal) were the same propagated Japanese Kyusei and “worked” well at first. Then it turned on folk art, stopped using Japanese sourdough, domestic craftsmen did something, and only one registered one remained from the preparations trademark and past memories that he once worked well ... "
***
Brief essence of technology. Everyone on the site has a different climate, different soil, different crops. Therefore, a different set of effective chains of microorganisms usually formed. But fungi, nematodes, protozoa and algae are no less effective in the soil (see my articles on this topic). Not to mention worms.
If you put organic matter on your soil, cover it with mulch and water it, then all this living creatures will multiply rapidly. If you place this organic matter, which has become compost, in a bucket of nutrient broth and pass air (oxygen), then the number of these beneficial microorganisms will increase millions of times. The gardener is able to water his garden with them immediately, while they are alive and not dead.
This is an interesting alternative to expired EMs that only contain brewer's yeast. But even they are useful. True, not as from the introduction of beneficial microorganisms, which, they say, take root, but as from “food” for microorganisms in your soil.
At first I will try to talk a little about the theory, although I understand that my reasoning will seem primitive to a specialist, and unnecessary to ordinary gardeners.
Every day, prescribing antibiotics to little patients, I hear an alarming question from parents: “Doctor, what should be given to our children in order to restore the dead intestinal flora so that there is no “dysbacteriosis?”
And I always answer, nothing should be given from drugs. Just provide your child with the right eco-friendly diet and lifestyle. And the disturbed intestinal microflora will quickly return to normal in your child.
So it is in the garden. The gardener is pursued by diseases and pests of plants. He buys mountains of "chemistry" and sprays the garden. Commercial companies offer another mountain of "chemistry" to supposedly restore the dead microorganisms of the garden.
I take it easy.
If serious, so-called "quarantine" pests and diseases appear in my garden, I will never use the advice of a "neighborly grandmother" or a marketer from a store. I will read serious scientific literature, I will get a drug with proven effectiveness, and I will use it. Better yet, get rid of unregioned diseased plants and replace them with modern disease-resistant varieties.
For example, in my garden for a long time there are no varieties of currants and gooseberries that are ill powdery mildew. And there are a lot of scab-resistant apple trees.
But I want to point out to gardeners that key link, that basis, thanks to which it is possible to maximize the resistance of plants to diseases in order to get decent yields without “heavy chemistry”.
***
The basis of the foundations is taking care of the rhizosphere of plants. It is that very thin layer of soil microbes that surrounds the root hairs of plants, which the plants themselves create, attract with their root secretions, supply the plants with active hormonal substances and antibiotics and make them as resistant as possible to the harmful effects of the environment.
Moreover, our plants have been selected for productivity. They are accustomed to survive and produce crops with constant chemical fertilizing and chemical protection. They have unlearned how to live in symbiosis with the soil flora, and we need to unobtrusively help them in this.
I will give practical examples.
The maximum yields of cheap Chinese products can be obtained without thinking about the biota of the soil, but using drip fertilizing with a set of nutrients and hormonal substances. But we don't need it.
I have learned how to get decent vegetable yields by adding good compost to the soil and by judiciously applying long-term fertilizers when applied locally. I have written a series of articles on this subject. But even in this case, the plants become pampered, they cease to attract friendly microorganisms and any natural disaster, stress, causes an outbreak of diseases and the death of the crop.
Therefore, I agree with O. Telepov and A. Kuznetsov, who recommend not adding ready-made compost for plants, but mulching beds and gardens with coarse, unprocessed organic mulch. The carbonaceous compounds of such mulch attract hundreds of eaters, creating chains of effective microorganisms with which plants enter into symbiosis. The harvest drops a little, the health of the garden, the soil and the gardener himself comes many times over.
Without understanding the intricacies and nuances of such mulching, a novice gardener, introducing bare sawdust, risks being left without a crop.
Another example. Let's say I mulched my beds or garden with manure and sawdust. Then I spilled them with Baikal EM. What do you think? Will the introduced microorganisms take root in my beds? Never! They, having come to a new territory where aboriginal microbes doze, will begin to rapidly process organic matter, occupying a new niche. There will be a new impulse of activity for the processing of organics, but the introduced EOs themselves will quickly become food for sleeping predatory natives, and the wave food chains swept through your yard, producing food for your plants' roots. And you will immediately see how your plants come to life and start to grow. This is what gardeners love and buy EM preparations.
But this momentum does not last long. In order for plants to grow constantly well, they need to be given new portions of organic matter, or often stimulated with Baikal EM.
Everything will happen in exactly the same way if you spill your beds with "mash", milk whey, (beer, infusion of grass) you will introduce organisms that will begin to rapidly decompose organic matter inaccessible to natives and create an impulse for food chains, and faster decomposition of coarse organic matter, up to available to the compost roots.
It turns out that both the first option (ready compost) and the second option (active mulch) are very close in terms of the mechanism of action, we simply feed the plants with organic fertilizers without creating an active rhizosphere.
I wrote about the phenomenon of "Sakhalin soil, with giant plants." He also cited the phenomenon of garbage heap soil. And he began to use this phenomenon with success. Its essence lies in something else, and not in simple composting of organic matter with the help of EM preparations.
One more example. I annually mulch the beds between the rows autumn foliage, the remnants of hay, manure bedding from rabbits and goats and leave weeds to grow. All this litter is permeated with a dense network of roots, which have a very active rhizosphere microflora (symbiotic fungi and bacteria, mainly nitrogen fixers). And it is this flora that not only digests the introduced coarse organic matter, but also absorbs nitrogen from the air and phosphorus and potassium from mother rocks (which is simply not available to the roots). That is, soil formation is accelerated tenfold, deficient nitrogen accumulates without the introduction of manure and urea, not to mention the fact that the soil structure becomes unusually loose, lumpy, airy and moisture-intensive.
If you introduce carbon-rich loose organic matter from year to year, constantly, then the eaters of this organic matter change in the soil. The native flora is changing, more active not only bacteria appear, but also fungi, amoeba, nematodes, algae, followed by earthworms, etc. And these microlife chains are made very stable and friendly to cultivated plants. On such soil, your plants do not just consume ready-made nutrients, but form a very active rhizosphere and therefore will be better able to withstand stress and disease.
Therefore, I use less “chemistry” on such soil, and the yields increase without compromising quality.
In fact, when I water the soil with rhizosphere stimulants, such as Ribav
(a preparation made from rhizosphere microorganisms), then I stimulate soil formation in the rhizosphere zone, which is what I need. And when I water the soil with Baikal or phytosporins, I stimulate the processing of organic matter outside the root zone, as in a compost heap, i.e. I just compost organic matter in the garden, speeding up this process. I give the plants not a fishing rod, but a ready-made fish.
I hope you understand that these are still different things.
Let's get to the main point.
Example. I take some soil (organics) from the "garbage heap", soil overgrown with weeds in the aisles, containing symbiotic fungi and bacteria, amoebas, nematodes, algae, put it in water with malt and let air through. All this useful and aboriginal flora for my beds multiplies millions of times. And right away, before she died, I watered her beds with it. Such a biota will definitely take root and displace all soil pathogenic fungi and bacteria and enrich the rhizosphere of cultivated plants.
What will happen if a well-fed fat white European is landed on a desert island with Papuans. The result, as in the song - "... the natives ate Cook."
Everyone understands that if on poor organic land, where there are no sustainable food chains, you overfeed your plantings nitrogen fertilizers(whether manure or urea), your plants will immediately be attacked by native putrefactive bacteria. The result, as in the song - "... the natives ate Cook."
You will follow the recommendations and add an excess of phosphorus for balance. But plants overfed with phosphorus will be attacked by mycorrhizal fungi. The hyphae of these fungi, useful for trees, roam the soil in search of phosphorus and will eat your cultivated plants, and the phosphorus will be transferred, for example, to the nearest pine tree. Again, as in the song - "... the natives ate Cook."
AT wild nature The diversity of biological organisms is the very essence of life.
A soil nutrition chart is sometimes provided in the form of a simple table, effective for learning, but too simplistic to actually show things. In fact, we understand only a fraction of what is happening in the soil and can only identify a small fraction of the organisms that live in it. In horticulture, regardless of the talent of the gardener, it would be foolish to claim that the final answer has been found to the question of whether it is necessary to plant mushrooms from the forest and water the garden with beneficial microbes from a test tube.
The approach recommended by some "gurus" is more like betting on luck. Many micro-organisms will not live in your environment and will disappear fairly quickly. Others will like these conditions and begin to dominate the root zone. You can only hope that the dominant microorganisms are favorable. In addition, it must be understood that bacteria take root much faster than many types of fungi, especially mycorrhiza-forming ones.
In the wild, most established ecosystems are dominated by fungi, however, these systems have evolved over a long period of time. We are only now beginning to understand the whole process of evolution that has taken place over the course of 350 million years.
And now let's see (in a simplified form) how the primary four groups of microorganisms (Bacteria, Fungi, Unicellular (amoebas and ciliates), Nematodes) are represented in three different ecosystems: agricultural fields, black earth steppe and mixed forest.
If the number of bacteria in the soil in all three ecosystems is approximately the same - from one hundred million to a billion in one gram, then fungi (let's take the total length of fungal hyphae) in one gram of farmland soil are only a few meters, in the soil of the steppe- from ten to one hundred meters, in the soil of deciduous forests- several hundred meters, and in one gram of coniferous forest soil - from one to several tens (!) Kilometers.
Although among the fungi there are two main groups: the so-called HUMUS SAPROTROPHES - mushrooms growing on the humus layer of the soil in which the mycelium is located, and LITTER SAPROTROPHES- mushrooms growing on the forest floor.
Now about the simplest (single-celled). In the cultivated soil and in the soil of the steppe, the content of protozoa is approximately the same: several thousand flagellates and amoebas, several hundred ciliates per gram, but in forest soil there are hundreds of thousands of amoebas and a small number of protozoa.
Nematodes. In one gram of cultivated soil, there are ten to twenty bacterial-eating nematodes, a few fungal-eating nematodes, and a few predatory nematodes. In one gram of steppe soil, there are from tens to several hundred nematodes, but in one gram of forest soil there are several hundred nematodes that feed on bacteria and fungi, as well as many predatory nematodes.
As you can see, each ecosystem is characterized by a different ratio of the number of representatives of the four main groups of microorganisms. This ratio is determined by climatic factors, the type of soil, as well as the degree of influence of human activities.
In the soils of agricultural lands, meadows and pastures, bacteria are dominant. That is, soil biomass is represented mainly by bacteria. The ratio of bacterial biomass to fungal biomass in such soils ranges from 5:1 to 1:1. In the soil of deciduous forests, bacteria are dominated by fungi in a ratio of 1:5 to 1:10, and in coniferous forests, this ratio reaches from 1:100 to 1:1000.
If the field or garden is not dug up for several years, the ratio of bacterium biomass- fungi will move towards fungi.
More important indicator is a variety of groups of microorganisms. If in the soil of an ancient cave there are 2-3 thousand different functional groups, in the desert- 10-15, in the steppe up to 20, in bushes- 25-27, in deciduous forests- up to 30, in coniferous forests- 32, in the rainforest- 33 thousand functional groups. The soil of our gardens, poisoned with mineral water and disturbed by digging, is close in this indicator to the soil of caves.
Why am I talking about this in such detail? For everyone to finally understand. When we spill the soil of the garden with store-bought “EM” preparations, we introduce from 2 to 10 functional groups of microorganisms (you can’t squeeze and save more into a test tube), and we need to strive to increase the diversity to 20-30 thousand, only then the soil ecosystem will become sustainable, and the plants will be less sick.
I mentioned the "garbage heap" phenomenon. How many functional groups are there?
Bacteria - the first, most numerous group of microorganisms, one gram of compost contains up to 1 billion bacteria. And in one gram of high-quality EO infusion own production can contain up to 100 billion bacteria.
Protozoa. One gram of compost can contain several thousand flagellates and amoebas, several hundred ciliates. They feed on bacteria and some types of fungi, while releasing the nutrients they contain.
Fungi. The compost may contain fungi with a total length of several meters to hundreds and even thousands of meters. The main food for fungi is high-carbon organic residues - leaves, trunks and branches of fallen trees, crop residues, cardboard, paper, wood chips and bark. Therefore, I never use fresh manure in the garden, but only bedding manure, with a very high content of coarse carbonaceous organic matter.
Fungi secrete the most powerful enzymes that decompose lignin, the main component wood materials, into simpler sugars and amino acids, which, in turn, become food for bacteria. For the vital activity of fungi, the humidity of their habitat is in the range of 40-50%.
Nematodes (a group of microorganisms incomprehensible to the gardener). In one gram of compost, you can always count up to several thousand nematodes that feed on bacteria, fungi, plant roots, as well as predatory nematodes (eating other nematodes). To maintain optimal living conditions for beneficial nematodes, as well as for bacteria, unicellular and fungi, the level of moisture in the soil and the presence of oxygen are very important. Without them, the soil does not become loose. Namely, ciliates and nematodes (like a wolf in a forest) make the soil ecosystem stable and diverse.
And all this, as mentioned above, you will never find in purchased preparations, but they will always be in preparations of your own production.
A revolution in my views occurred after one experience.
Rare native weeds grew on the lifeless sandy ground in my new garden. Their roots went deep into the soil no more than 10 cm. cultivated plants, planted on this sand, everyone died if I did not add mineral water and organic matter. I tried (as an experiment) to water cultural plantings with solutions of EM preparations, weak infusions of weeds, humates. There was no effect. Microbes and stimulants alone do not stimulate plant growth without nutrients.
After several years of mowing the grass and applying manure on the surface, a certain percentage of humus appeared in the soil. And I saw miracles.
Even without top dressing, the roots went into the soil already by 20 cm. But if I watered the plants with weak solutions of grass infusion (without mineral and organic top dressing), then the roots grew up to a meter deep. Naturally, the tops were twice ahead of neighboring (without stimulants) plants.
But, the most interesting thing happened when I took a shovel of humus from a garbage heap riddled with nettle roots, placed it in a bucket of water and passed air from the compressor for a day, then sprayed plants on poor soil (in the garden) with this infusion of microorganisms, sprayed growing plants for control on humus-rich soil (in the garden). I did this several times during the season. The result was instructive.
If on poor land, spraying with a simple infusion of weeds stimulated the plants slightly, then spraying with an infusion of "garbage humus" stimulated the plants very noticeably. The plants were not only taller, but they stood saturated with green, and did not suffer from diseases and drought.
On humus-rich soil, the results were different. Here, growth stimulation was practically not noticeable, there was enough nutrition in the soil. But plants without spraying reacted heavily to prolonged rains, turned pale, withered from the heat (suffered from stress). When sprayed with an infusion of the "weed heap", they delighted the eye with health all summer (they resisted stress and disease).
***
After that, I began to study the literature on rhizosphere stimulants. And I understood the following:
Phytohormones are one of the important factors on which plant growth depends. The main phytohormones that stimulate growth processes are formed in meristems. In the apical meristem of the shoot, auxin is formed, in the root apex - cytokinins, in the generative meristem, which will give rise to the flower - brassinosteroids. Gibberellins are produced in leaves and roots. It is these hormones that determine the flow of nutrients to the place of their formation, and, consequently, the maximum concentration. It is these hormones that determine the hierarchy of meristems - which of them will receive how many nutrients, which means the growth of organs to which this meristem gives rise.
Many gardeners successfully use epin, zircon, ovary (gibberellin). At the same time, less attention is paid to the hormonal regulation of root growth than shoot growth. Some use, perhaps, only heteroauxin, but they know almost nothing about Ribava, Symbiont. But scientists believe that such drugs are the most promising. AT stressful situations, as well as at the beginning of the growing season and with active growth, there are not enough phytohormones, and the plant uses symbiosis with microorganisms living in the rhizosphere of the plant to cover their deficiency, receiving phytohormone analogs from them and providing them with nutrients in return.
Quite a lot of hormones, especially at the beginning of the growing season, the plant receives from microorganisms, mainly fungi, living in the intercellular space of the plant body.
Most of the phytoregulators (mainly synthesized analogues or antagonists) act through phytohormones, increasing or blocking the activity of any of them, which leads to a change in signs.
In fact, it is most logical to influence the plant's hormonal system by adding the missing hormone from the outside.
Another part of phytoregulators (mainly - natural origin) affects the activity of symbiont microorganisms, stimulating the production of growth-regulating substances by them (this is what is most interesting to me).
Preparations of the "Symbiont" group are developed and produced at the Moscow Agricultural Academy named after A.I. K. A. Timiryazev. For the production of these preparations, microtrophic plants are used, from which a pure culture of endophyte is isolated and propagated on a nutrient medium. Further, biologically active substances are extracted from the biomass of fungi. Currently, Symbiont-3, obtained from the endophytes of the roots of the Erva woolly plant, is considered the most active.
But there are also drugs on the market such as Emistim-R, Ecost 1/3 and Ecost 1GF (Biolan, Agropon-s) and the newer Mycefit. They contain substances that attract and stimulate soil microflora to form a symbiotic rhizosphere, which plays a huge role in proper nutrition plants. Beneficial microorganisms in a chain process nutrients from the soil, converting them into an easily digestible form and supplying them to the plant in the amount it needs. And at the slightest nitrogen deficiency in the soil, billions of nitrogen fixers in the rhizosphere eliminate such a deficiency.
In addition, these substances are natural regulators of plant growth and root formation, they are not just banal phytohormones, but a fundamentally different class of drugs called elicitors. The effect they have on correct application, evokes thoughts of magic and magic, because the next day after processing, the plants change color to rich green and begin to grow rapidly.
Elicitors send a powerful signal to the plant: "Defend yourself!", and the plants grow so strong. Elicitors are essentially a vaccine for plants, causing them to induced systemic resistance to diseases.
Now it became clear to me why the infusion of compost from the garbage heap had such a miraculous effect on my site. After all, this pile has all sprouted roots wild plants. And not just compost-processing microorganisms got into the hood, but also rhizospheric microorganisms, and, most importantly, symbiont fungi. In fact, I received an extract of rhizosphere stimulants with the same effectiveness as the patented Mycephyte and Ribav, and, in addition, enhanced by thousands of native microbial symbiotic communities.
When spraying plants, all these communities reach the rhizosphere, partially take root in it. Later, bacteria, algae, fungi and protozoa, in turn, produce useful enzymes, organic acids, antibiotics, growth hormones and other nutrients, reaching the rhizosphere, these growth stimulants are then absorbed by the roots and transported to the leaves as well, stimulating the synthesis of carbohydrates and increasing the stress resistance of the plant as a whole.
***
So, I will share my experience on how to prepare an infusion at home that contains thousands of living native microbial symbiotic communities, primarily rhizospheric microorganisms and, most importantly, symbiont fungi.
First, about the rules for preparing compost for these purposes. I have my secrets, I will share them.
I keep rabbits, rabbit litter, where there is a lot of not only litter, but also the remains of hay and feed (with vitamins and trace elements), I collect them in white feed bags, and take them out to a shady corner of the garden where comfrey grows. I lay them out in one layer on the ground under the comfrey. In the comfrey leaf litter, over 20 years of its growth, a particularly active microbial community has formed, (as in the Sakhalin tall grass) a lot of earthworms. After a couple of weeks, thousands of worms and other animals crawl into this bag of rabbit litter. Together with them, they carry tens of thousands of functional groups of microorganisms and the natural processing of organics begins with their native microorganisms for my zone and for my garden. In summer, on hot days, the compost is ready in a month, becomes loose, free-flowing, with a magnificent smell of bread (from fodder) with a touch of spring earth. Note that I don't put any effort into shoveling a large pile of manure and building composting facilities.
I took out a bag weighing 30 kg. And I get 15 kg of compost, in which 50% of semi-decomposed organic matter, and 50% is the net weight of living microorganisms. Since the roots of comfrey always penetrate into this bag, growing from below, they speed up composting many times and saturate the compost with especially valuable rhizosphere biota, creating the effect of a garbage heap.
What is important, in my compost after a month of work of worms, nematodes and other predators, there are no pathogenic bacilli, fungi, helminths dangerous for humans and plants. All this will be first of all eaten and processed by "predators" in a moist, porous, well-aerated environment. Since I clean the cages every 2 weeks, I always have a compost conveyor varying degrees decomposition. In late autumn, I put the bags of compost into the barn, and it does not lose its effectiveness until spring.
There will be a question for beginners, we do not have comfrey and rabbit manure. What to do?
In any garden or nearby there are corners where you take out the garbage and tops of your plants, nettles, quinoa and other weeds grow here. Their rhizosphere is in no way inferior to comfrey, and if such a garbage heap exists for 5 years, then a natural microbial community rich in diversity has already formed there. Put your bags of organics in there. Not necessarily manure. Enough of the foliage of the garden, mowed weeds, just add leftovers from the table, bread, bones, in extreme cases, buy some cheap bran feed, this will attract all the worms from your garbage heap.
You can also make a compost bin, and make compost the right way. But when the compost is ripe, do not be lazy, collect plantain seeds from the nearest meadow or tagetes (marigold) seeds and sow on the compost. Let them sprout and the roots, carrying symbionts of fungi and active rhizosphere biota, penetrate deeper into the compost. That will be more reliable. So you saturate the compost with phytoregulators and hormones of natural origin, and you will not need to buy "hormones" in the store.
Now I will share even more important secrets of how to transfer these billions of beneficial microorganisms from compost into solution, multiply them many times, and shed or spray your plants with them.
The technology is well described by EO drug manufacturers.
You need water without chlorine. For 10 liters of water, it is advisable to add a glass of malt extract, it is sold in all stores, you can infuse a few crusts of bread or add the rest of the jam. Carbohydrates are needed for microbes to multiply quickly.
But, there is a fundamental difference with EM technologies. Our beneficial microorganisms in the compost live in a well-aerated environment. If they are placed in a solution with malt, they will quickly die, rot and be eaten by putrefactive microbes. Therefore, as soon as you put the compost into the solution, you need to immediately turn on the compressor and let the air through.
And so, after placing usually 2 liters of compost in a bucket of water with malt, and turning on aeration, microorganisms and various substances(organic and inorganic, soluble and insoluble) fall into an aquatic environment saturated with atmospheric oxygen. Under these conditions, they begin to actively multiply, especially those microorganisms that are aerobic, that is, capable of living and multiplying in conditions of high oxygen content in water. Anaerobic microorganisms under such conditions either die or go into a state of sleep. Depending on the type of feed additive (malt, jam, or infusion of weeds), certain groups of microorganisms begin to develop in the infusion. Often additives are a variety of fermented herbs, or herbs mixed with manure, compost, or pure manure and compost infusions. You can ferment individual herbs: nettle, horsetail - or you can do everything, the so-called dynamic herbs together. You can also use the method of fermenting rhizomatous weeds with stems, rhizomes and flowers. Those who believe in vermicompost- can use an infusion of such compost.
In the process of reproduction, organisms use additives as food, while actively consuming oxygen. At this stage, it is especially important to control the oxygen content in the water, when aeration is turned off, after -30 minutes the oxygen level in the water drops so much that the mass death of aerobic organisms and the reproduction of anaerobic organisms, which are extremely undesirable for our purposes, begin. In most cases, such a solution is no longer amenable to correction. The spoiled solution cannot be used.
On average, at a temperature environment 20 degrees Celsius, the microbial infusion preparation cycle lasts about a day, i.e. 24 hours. At a temperature of 30 degrees. cycle lasts approximately 15-18 hours. If the process goes on too long, the micro-organisms use up all the nutrients and stop reproducing, with many groups simply disappearing to become food for other groups.
Naturally, the question arises: how to determine whether the process of preparing the infusion is going on correctly?
A drop in oxygen levels can be easily identified by smell. A good microbial infusion has a pleasant smell of fresh earth. The infusion, in which anaerobic microorganisms began to multiply, acquires an unpleasant (putrefactive) smell. The infusion should be used within no more than 4 hours after preparation, while the shelf life depends on the ambient temperature - the higher the temperature, the shorter the shelf life. Considering the time required for delivery to the place of application, sometimes it is necessary to use the infusion directly "from the wheels". This is the difference between your own microbial infusion and store-bought EOs. On the scale of the garden, we can keep the microorganisms we need alive, in industrial installations, mainly yeast cells and spores of bacilli are kept alive.
Each microbial infusion prepared with my own hands, is unique in itself.- this is something individual, creative, you can combine and create as you like.
How do I apply this infusion.
Since autumn, I have been mulching the garden and beds with my organic matter from animals. If there are warm days since the end of September, then I spray this mulch with infusion. But the main thing is to spray all the soil with mulch in early spring when at the end of April the soil begins to warm up. By doing this, you will increase the temperature in the root layer of your plants by 5-10 degrees, and spring in your garden will come 2 weeks earlier, and autumn 2 weeks later. I recently wrote about this in an article about grapes.
Naturally, the infusion must be filtered before pouring into the sprayer, but through a large sieve so that nematodes and amoebas get into the solution. And therefore, it is necessary to spray not with the smallest drops, but with larger drops.
I spray the garden, both the soil and the foliage - 3-4 times per season. I try to guess in the rain, the microbes must penetrate the soil. The garden can be sprayed more often, up to twice a month.
It must be remembered that together with the solution you introduce not only effective microorganisms that will process organic matter and make it available for plant nutrition, but more importantly, you stimulate root growth and create a very active rhizosphere in the root zone. Help plants to enter into symbiosis with microorganisms, symbiotic fungi, by increasing the secretion of carbohydrates by the roots. The process of soil formation in the root zone is accelerated at times. The roots intensively release carbon dioxide, carbonic acid, together with microbes and fungi, destroys the mother rock and makes minerals available for nutrition, nitrogen fixers, using root secrets, absorb and accumulate nitrogen from the air in the soil. This way, your plants not only take nutrients out of the soil, but even store it for future generations. Sometimes lovers of chemical dressings do not understand this.
Foliar spraying also benefits plants. film of microbes- anaerobes, protects the leaves from diseases, and a huge amount of phytohormones - elisators dramatically increases their resistance to pests.
Do not forget to dilute the infusion with water without bleach before use. For foliage, I dilute 10-50 times. The effect is the same. At spring processing I dilute the soil no more than 5-10 times.
Perhaps the main thing said. Convinced that my "homemade" microbial infusion is significantly different from the "Branded EM drugs." I hope I convinced you that you shouldn’t blindly copy the advice of the “guru”, you should try to understand the mechanisms of action of the drugs used and agricultural techniques.
Gennady Raspopov , Borovichi
Compost bacteria are highly concentrated beneficial microorganisms for high fiber materials such as straw, cattle and cattle manure, etc. Compost Bacteria improve the productivity and decomposition rate of waste, these bacteria have been carefully selected, experimentally brought to an improved high concentration bacterial and fungal mixture. These strains are designed to best survive, reproduce and enzymatically decompose organic waste during the composting process, in order to improve the utilization of solid waste pulp and humus compost production. agriculture. Bacteria (cellulase, xylanase, amylase, decomposition enzymes containing lignin) promote the release of sugar from cellulose, hemicellulose, starch and other carbohydrates in the compost. Bacteria effectively inhibit (suppress) the reproduction of bacteria and invertebrates, thereby neutralizing pathogenic flora and unpleasant odors. An effective combination of beneficial microorganisms will significantly reduce the time of compost fermentation.
Benefits of Bacteria for Compost:
- Reducing organic waste in volumes;
- Efficient way to extract nutrients from organic waste;
- Production of high-quality fertilizer for the soil, including mineral fertilizers, improvement of soil structure and aeration (Exchange of soil air with atmospheric, soil ventilation), as well as increasing the soil's ability to retain water, including weakened clay and sandy soils are more resistant to moisture retention;
- Increasing soil fertility and stimulating the healthy development of the plant root system;
- Composting organic matter provides nourishment for beneficial bacteria and then maintains a healthy balance of micro-organisms in the soil;
- Bacteria in the process of fermentation produce nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, which allows replenishing the supply of minerals in the soil.
Working mechanism:
Composting is the process of breaking down organic waste, crop residues and other annual plants. Decomposition occurs due to processes such as oxidation (air), reduction and hydrolysis (water). For a complete fermentation process, it is necessary to provide suitable environmental conditions. Compost bacteria produce a large number heat generated in the decomposition process, temperature from 30 to 60 degrees Celsius (inside compost heap) is considered a suitable temperature for a normal composting process. So heat necessary for the rapid decomposition of waste and contributes to the destruction of cereal weeds, insect larvae and pathogenic microorganisms.
Operating technology:
Dilute 1 kg of product with 20-40 liters of water (without chlorine), treat 5-6 tons of waste (spray once). Install pipes around the perimeter of the compost heap to allow air to enter the layers. After reaching the temperature of 55 ℃-+ 60 ℃ at each point, on the 5th-7th day of the fermentation process, perform a stirring procedure for oxygen supply (for the best effect, repeat this procedure two or three times). If the temperature inside drops, then the fermentation process is completed. Most organic materials take 10-15 days to complete the composting process.
Note:
1. Humidity control:
The initial period - humidity 35-55% (wet crumbly consistency). If the humidity is too high, sawdust or straw can be added to remove excess moisture. If the material contains more than 55% water - add dry wood chips Intermediate period (7-10 days) - increase in temperature, resulting in a decrease in humidity. The final result is a moisture content of 20%, after the end of composting, we recommend decomposing as much as possible within one day finished product for the necessary saturation with moisture.
2. During the composting process, avoid exposure direct sunlight (it is possible to use canopies), which will allow the fermentation process to proceed as quickly as possible. Do not close at night plastic wrap, when using plastic shields, perforate the walls. Provide air exchange in the room.
3. Product in open form store at humidity not more than 10% to avoid premature germination of spores. Vacuum-packed, shelf life is 2 years from the date of manufacture.
Biological product for the processing of excrement of the liquid fraction.
Composition of the Biopreparation - biologically active agents from various bacteria and their enzymes, which are non-toxic and environmentally friendly. In production, discarded organic waste is dangerous, emits an unpleasant odor, even stench, leads to soil leaching, and as a result, to environmental pollution, which in turn affects people's life and health.
The biological product specializes in the processing of excrement of the liquid fraction, microelements convert waste into water and carbon dioxide and effectively destroy unpleasant odors.
Product Features:
- The disinfecting and deodorizing properties of the product inhibit the growth and reproduction of pathogenic flora.
- The product has a highly effective effect on the source of unpleasant odors in the role of suppressing the generation of odors, which can radically solve the problems of environmental pollution.
Usage:
- Mix 50 grams of the product, calculated for a volume of 5 cubic meters, with 2.5 liters of water, leave the water alone for 45 minutes to activate the bacteria, then pour the mixture into the tank, repeat the operation if necessary.
- The product contains beneficial bacteria harvested naturally, the biological activity of the enzymes is very powerful and effective in breaking down organic waste while being non-toxic and non-polluting to the environment.
Alternative way to use the product:
To eliminate unpleasant odors in the place where animals are staying, it is recommended to perform the following treatment: Activate the biological product in the amount of 10 grams in 500 ml of water and spray it on a clean and dry surface of the corral in its lower part. Then place the animal (or bird) on the area, it is desirable that the animal is clean and dry, then wake up thin layer Biological product in dry form on the top of the corral. The product will be activated from moisture in natural processes, removing odor. Strongly affected areas after 45 minutes can be treated again and without removing from the surface, allow the Biological product to dry naturally.
Validity with continuous intake of excrement into the tank -3 months, processing without excrement in 10-15 days
Storage:
Store at room temperature and moderate humidity in a vacuum package for 2 years, after 2 years the product loses its properties by 10%.
Biological product for composting plant residues
A microbial product containing high concentrations of non-pathogenic beneficial microorganisms and enzymes that break down various macromolecules and are capable of producing digestive enzymes during the composting process to break down protein particles and organic matter in the compost. Working mechanism The composting process is a process of decomposition of plant residues, during which substances are produced that are very useful for households and garden plants. Microorganisms during the composting process generate a lot of heat, up to 60 degrees Celsius, this temperature is necessary for the rapid decomposition of waste and the elimination of odor, but also contributes to the destruction of grass weeds, insect larvae, harmful bacteria and can prevent the reproduction of certain diseases that prevent the normal growth of plants.
Advantages:
- Reducing organic waste in volume.
- An efficient method of extracting nutrients from organic waste, as well as microorganisms in the compost, produce nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.
- After the composting process, organic waste is transformed into stable, hygienic, humus products to improve soil composition.
- The compost product can be used for house and garden plants.
- An effective combination of beneficial microorganisms significantly reduces the compost fermentation time, 10-15 days (up to 21 days at low ambient temperatures), the composting process becomes fast and profitable.
- Ready-made compost improves the structure and texture of the soil, its ventilation, increases the soil's ability to retain water, and stimulates the development of healthy plant roots.
- This recycling reduces land and water pollution caused by landfill leaching.
Operating technology:
- Dilute 1 kg of the product with 20-40 liters of water (without chlorine), process 4 tons of waste (in layers, once).
- Install pipes around the perimeter of the compost heap to allow air to enter the layers.
- Upon reaching the temperature of 55 ℃-+ 60 ℃ at each point, on the 5th-7th day of the fermentation process, perform a stirring procedure for oxygen supply (if possible, repeat the procedure).
- If the temperature inside drops, then the fermentation process is completed.
Note:
1. Humidity control:
- The initial period - humidity 35-55% (wet crumbly consistency). Remove excess moisture by adding sawdust, straw or wood chips.
- The intermediate period (7-10 days) is an increase in temperature, resulting in a decrease in humidity.
- The end result is a moisture content of 20%, after the end of composting, we recommend that the finished product be decomposed as much as possible within one day for the necessary saturation with moisture.
2. During the composting process, avoid exposure to direct sunlight (it is possible to use sheds), which will allow the fermentation process to proceed as quickly as possible. Do not cover with plastic wrap at night; when using plastic shields, perforate the walls. Provide air exchange in the room.
3. Store the product in an open form at a humidity of not more than 10%, in order to avoid premature germination of spores.
Storage: Store in a dry, cool and ventilated place for 2 years, after 2 years the product loses its properties by 10%, avoid direct sunlight.
2013-07-02
EM drugs, or, in other words, effective microorganisms, are commercially available concentrates that contain beneficial microbes that are in a stable inactive state, designed to long-term storage. The basis of EM preparations are photosynthetic and lactic acid bacteria, yeasts, actinomycetes and enzyme fungi.
By the way, if you keep flowers at home, it means fertilizers and the earth from them can fall on the carpet, so you can use the carpet cleaning service on the website cleaning-puls.ru.
EM technologies were created more than 20 years ago by the Japanese microbiologist Higa Tera. The idea was to use such concentrates to restore the microbiological composition of soils, depleted by intensive farming and the introduction of a huge amount of synthetic fertilizers, pesticides and other chemicals.
The effect of EM drugs
Increase the content of beneficial microorganisms in the soil.
They heal the soil, as they inhibit the growth of phytopathogens, increasing the number of antagonist microbes.
Improve soil structure.
Contribute to the improvement of mineral nutrition of plants.
They release biologically active substances and stimulate the growth of plants, increase their immunity and productivity.
Improve fruit quality.
As a result of such restoration, the soil, like a huge organism in which life is in full swing, imperceptible to the human eye, will nourish and renew itself. Our scientists have developed domestic EMCs. And they really came to "taste" many gardeners. Among domestic preparations, the most common are: Baikal-EM-1, Vostok-EM (there are several modifications: for seed treatment, for irrigation of the soil, for watering plants), Shining, Revival. By the way, they are successfully used in composting (we will talk about this in detail in the next issue of the Summer Season).
Someone notes that a stable effect from the use of EMOC is observed only in the second year of use, while others notice it after 2-3 weeks. It all depends on the initial conditions: the composition of the soil, the methods of processing, the fertilizers used before, the amount of organic matter introduced, climatic conditions, water regime and others. It is impossible to foresee all of them.
How to use EM drugs?
Detailed instructions for the use of a particular EM drug can be found on the bottle or packaging. But at the same time it is necessary to observe general rules, more precisely, the principles of use. Natural farming enthusiasts believe that by shifting all the main work to soil microorganisms, we just have to create them comfortable conditions for normal life:
Give them organic waste as food and stop digging up the ground with a seam overturn;
it is desirable to loosen only the top layer of soil to a depth of no more than 5-7 cm, inhabited mainly by aerobic microorganisms that need oxygen for life. Thus, we stimulate their development. In addition, by loosening the top layer of the soil, we do not disturb its structure, providing water and air permeability;
apply preparations to the soil or spray on plants only in the morning or after rain, and not in sunny weather, since the sun's rays are detrimental to microorganisms and can reduce the effectiveness of drugs;
it is desirable to introduce preparations into the soil in warm weather, as the development of microorganisms is activated;
spraying of plants should be finely dispersed, since large drops easily roll off the surface of the leaves;
the effectiveness of any microbial preparations increases with the simultaneous use of organic fertilizers and crop rotation.
In short, EM preparations are something like yoghurts that we drink to restore the microflora of the body and thus boost immunity. A thing, in a word, useful. Although in fairness it should be said that it is possible to restore the microflora of the body with ordinary yogurt, cooked at home from boiled milk with the addition of a tablespoon of sour cream.
In the same way, newfangled EM drugs can be prepared at home. And you, our dear readers, have repeatedly sent us such recipes. For example, when you told how you ferment weeds from your garden in a barrel, potato tops and add some fresh manure there. Why not an EM drug?
Here are a few more letters from our editorial mail, Viktor Mikhailovich Parshin from Kaluga: “I am making such a nutritious compote. I fill a barrel with a capacity of 250 liters by a third with chopped weeds - nettle, quinoa, milkweed and others. I add medicinal herbs- yarrow, chamomile, tansy, plantain, grind - and also in a barrel. I add half a bucket of ash. You can add two composts to this bucket barrel, or even better compost prepared using EM technology. Then I fill the barrel with water. The nutrient mixture should be infused for one to two weeks. I dilute the infusion in a ratio of 1:10 and use 1 liter of this “compote” for each bush. Everyone responds well to such feeding. vegetable crops, bushes and trees.
Elena Vladimirovna Mikhaleva from Cherepovets: “I have been using EM preparations for probably 5 years already. It seems that some results are imperceptible, but, on the other hand, everything seems to be growing by itself. Well, judge for yourself: I don’t have much time to do a garden, but I plant everything, I water it from time to time, I don’t weed it ... And sometimes I even wonder myself how everything grows! In the autumn I will shed the earth here and there with the Emkoy, in the spring I will shed the beds with it, and in the middle of the summer I will water it again. I spray the tomatoes once with the same solution. My tomatoes didn't turn black even when frozen. And everything survived the heat. Either Emka is “guilty”, or am I so lucky!”
Viktoria Vladimirovna Semykh from Novgorod: “I can say with confidence that when using an EM preparation (I buy a concentrate and breed it myself), the germination of seeds (any) is almost 100%. When sowing seeds, I have been watering the soil with a solution of EMA for about 3-4 seasons, and there has never been a time when the seeds did not sprout. Sometimes I water them with homemade lemons and yucca, and they both grow by leaps and bounds.
In a word, we have given you information for reflection, and then it is up to you to decide whether to use EM drugs or not.
Source: " Summer Season” №5, 2013
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