Building a house from aerated concrete is not exactly an easy undertaking, but compared to brick or the same log house, you will have to put in much less effort. We will build a simple cottage on a strip foundation.
If you wish, you can change the characteristics of the building at your discretion - you just need to master the order of laying out the walls, all other activities are carried out as standard for houses made of any materials.
Construction kit
- 0.1 Construction kit
- 1 Making the foundation
- 1.1 Marking the site
- 1.2 Preparing the trenches
- 1.3 Digging trenches
- 1.4 Installing the formwork
- 1.5 Laying the reinforcement
- 1.6 Pouring concrete
- 1.7 Building walls
- 1.10 Interfloor armored belt. Photo
- 1.11 We arrange windows and window sills
- 1.12 Making jumpers
- 1.13 Making an armored belt
- 2.1 Video - Do-it-yourself aerated concrete house
- Band-saw.
- Drill.
- Hand saw.
- Manual wall chaser.
- Mixer.
- Electric cutter.
- Scraper bucket.
- Carriages for glue.
- Notched trowel.
- Rubber hammer.
- Sanding float (board).
Making the foundation
Marking the site
We remove everything that is in the way from the site, clear it and begin marking. To do this, we use reinforcing bars and rope.
We determine the axis of the future structure. We take a plumb line and mark the first corner of the foundation. Perpendicular to it, we pull the rope to the second and third corners of the building.
Using a square, mark the 4th corner. We measure the diagonals. If the length is the same, everything is fine, the angles match, you can hammer in the rods and pull the rope.
Similarly, we carry out internal markings of the base, retreating from the external order of 400 mm ( optimal value width for strip foundation).
We dig trenches around the perimeter of the house and under future internal walls.
Preparing the trenches
We find the lowest point on the site. From here we measure the depth of the hole. A small house can be built on a 40-centimeter strip. For the rest, focus on the features of the structure and the site as a whole (freezing depth, groundwater level).
Digging trenches
Important! The walls of the pit should be vertical and the bottom should be level. We check this with a plumb line and level.
Place a sand cushion at the bottom of the hole and compact it thoroughly. Such a pillow will help to evenly distribute the load on the base in the off-season. Recommended thickness – from 15 cm.
Pour crushed stone onto the sand and lay roofing felt.
Installing formwork
We assemble it from boards, plywood and other similar materials. We fasten the formwork elements using nails or screws.
Important! The height of the formwork is such that it rises above the ground level by at least 300 mm.
We stretch the fishing line along the inner perimeter of the formwork at the level of the upper edge of the future fill.
At the same stage, we think about the arrangement of openings for the entry of water supply and sewerage. To do this, we lay empty pipes in the right places and fill them with sand.
Laying the reinforcement
We take rods with a diameter of 12-14 m. We tie them into a mesh using a flexible steel wire. 7 mesh meshes can have different size. The heavier the house, the smaller the side of the square should be. Most often, a mesh with cells of 20x20 cm is sufficient.
We make a grid according to the dimensions of the trench. Important! We leave 5-centimeter gaps between the laid reinforcing layer, the walls and the top of the trench, so that in the future all reinforcement will be guaranteed to be filled with concrete.
Pouring concrete
We multiply the width of the foundation by its length and height and determine the required volume of concrete. Prepare or order a mixture. For preparation we use the standard recipe:
- cement – 1 part;
- crushed stone - 5 parts;
- sand - 3 parts;
- water - to the desired consistency.
Pour the concrete solution in uniform layers of approximately 200 mm, do not rush. We compact each layer of fill with a wooden tamper. We pour concrete to the level of the previously stretched rope in the formwork space.
We level the pouring surface using a trowel and pierce the concrete with reinforcement in several places. From the outside, carefully tap the formwork with a wooden hammer.
We give the foundation a month to gain strength. During this time, we cover the structure with polyethylene to protect it from precipitation, and in hot weather we spill it with water to prevent cracking.
Building walls
For construction in this example we use blocks with a tongue-and-groove design. They are simply more comfortable to carry with your hands. You can build from any other aerated blocks - the order of work does not change.
We first clean the upper part of the dried foundation from existing dirt and dust, and then cover it with a layer of roofing felt.
For luggage of the first row we use cement-sand mortar. It dries longer than special glue, and we will have the opportunity to adjust the evenness of the row layout. Minimum thickness layer – 10 mm. There are no maximum restrictions. This will allow you to even out differences in height without much effort.
We find the highest angle - we will build from it. We take a fishing line and mark the wall of the house. We lay the first gas block. Then we place a block at each remaining corner and stretch the rope between the building elements.
Be sure to check the evenness of each block. We lay out the first row of blocks around the perimeter of the house and in the places where the internal walls are being built.
Important! Remember about door openings. Naturally, we skip them.
We take polishing and carefully grind the surface of the starting row. Next, we will do this with each laid row. Thanks to this treatment, we will be able to apply the glue as evenly as possible.
We put the second, and after it the third row. We use special glue for laying gas blocks. We work as on the first row, starting from the corners. We tie the rows, moving them halfway across the block - like brickwork. Minimum permissible value such a shift when laying aerated concrete is 80 mm.
To apply glue we use ladles with teeth. We install the blocks as close to each other as possible, as far as our fingers allow, and move them end to end. We check the evenness of the masonry with a level. If necessary, level the blocks using a rubber hammer. We work quickly and smoothly, because... The glue dries very quickly and it will be almost impossible to move the gas block.
Helpful advice! If, when laying the opening, it was not possible to reach the length of the entire gas block, we saw off the excess using a special saw or a simple hacksaw for wood.
Interfloor armored belt. Photo
We equip windows and window sills
In the example under consideration, the window sills have a height of 4 rows of masonry. We reinforce window openings after laying out the 3rd row. A wall chaser will help us with this.
In the place where the window opening is arranged, we cut 2 parallel lines. Their length should extend beyond the boundaries of the window by 300 mm on each side.
We place reinforcement bars in the grooves and secure them with cement-sand mortar. Ready! The wall for installing the window is reinforced.
Important! It is better not to block openings for installing windows. Of course, in the future they can be cut out, but this extra waste time and effort.
Wall masonry. In the photo, decorative brick cladding is being done at the same time as the walls are being laid.
Making jumpers
Gradually we approached the lintels. These structures are needed to strengthen the section of the wall above the door and window openings. Without jumpers, the structure may simply collapse.
Then “permanent formwork” of three rows of blocks: 1. Outside, a block with a thickness of 150; 2. in the center is a block 150 thick, sawn in half lengthwise; 3. The inside is a block 100 mm thick.
We cut it into “squares” and tie reinforcing bars to them
You can either use ready-made U-shaped blocks (glue them to the required length, install them, lay down reinforcement and fill them with cement mortar) or make the formwork yourself.
For the manufacture of formwork, it is most convenient to use gas blocks 10 cm wide. We fasten the blocks with glue. If it is not possible to buy 10-centimeter blocks, we simply cut a regular gas block into 3 identical pieces.
We glue the blocks to the required length, make 3 longitudinal ditches with a wall chaser, lay reinforcing bars in them, pour cement mortar and give it a day to dry.
We install the jumpers with the side with the reinforcement facing down. We fill the gaps with gas blocks, if necessary, pre-cut to the required sizes.
Making an armored belt
After arranging the row with window lintels, we begin pouring the armored belt, also known as the seismic belt. The structure is made of reinforced concrete and ensures the integrity of the aerated concrete building.
We take 10-centimeter blocks and form them into formwork around the perimeter of the walls. We fill the ditch with reinforcement and pour cement mortar.
We embed it in the armored belt metal studs for attaching the Mauerlat. We can make them from reinforcement. Even more convenient option– threaded studs. It is easier to attach the Mauerlat to them.
At this point the box at home is ready.
We have already installed the Mauerlat. It's time to install the rafters. At this stage, everything is individual - focus on the features of the chosen roofing structure.
Several options are available:
Regardless of the chosen roof structure, it must be equipped with insulating layers: hydro-, heat- and vapor barriers. In some cases (for example, when setting up residential attic) a layer of soundproofing material is installed.
We fix it on top of the rafters waterproofing material. The most convenient way to do this is with wooden slats. At the same time, the slats will play the role of a counter-batten, to which the sheathing slats for the roofing material will later be fixed.
Under the waterproofing, we place insulation in the space between the sheathing slats. Most often used mineral wool. If desired, you can choose another material (expanded polystyrene, polystyrene foam, etc.).
We cover the thermal insulation with a layer vapor barrier film. We attach it to the rafters using wooden slats.
Finally, we lay down the finishing roofing. At this point, focus on your available budget and personal preferences. Most popular materials:
- slate;
- bitumen shingles;
- corrugated sheeting;
- metal tiles;
- ceramic tiles.
Any roofing material lay it starting from the bottom. As a result, the sheets will be secured so that sedimentary moisture can drain without penetrating under the roofing.
This completes the box of aerated concrete blocks with a roof. Further installation work awaits you. engineering communications and finishing, but this is a topic for a separate guide.
Good luck!
Video - Do-it-yourself aerated concrete house
Question about how to make an imitation fireplace on our own, is of interest to everyone who wants to make their home original, cozy and unusual. An imitation fireplace is a structure that can be installed in any city apartment without approval from the competent authorities. In addition, an imitation of a fireplace in an apartment can be done with your own hands without hiring a hired work force, which will allow significant savings on construction. For such work there is no need to purchase special tools and equipment. As a rule, everything you need is in the pantry of every home. Considering that the decorative hearth will not heat up, you don’t have to be limited in the choice of material. You can use almost everything you have at hand. This also applies to finishing, for which you can even use plastic and wallpaper. It is worth dwelling on construction options decorative fireplace and nuances that are worth paying attention to.
Types of decorative fireplaces and their equipment
First of all, you need to decide on the place where the hearth will be built. The most the best option is its location in the living room in the middle of the wall. Such a fireplace will be a place for family gatherings and friendly parties. A good solution is to use one of the corners. It is advisable to do so small apartment. Such a fireplace can also be used as a shelf by placing photos, books, souvenirs or a cocktail set on its tabletop.
Decorative fireplace in the middle of the room
It is worth thinking carefully about the size and shape of the future structure. An imitation fireplace in the interior should look harmonious and organic. A hearth that is too small will look awkward and funny. An excessively large structure will create a feeling of crampedness and monumentality, but not peace and comfort. In order not to make a mistake with the size, it is advisable at the design stage to create a life-size model of the fireplace and evaluate how it will look in the interior.
Enough great importance To make the fireplace more realistic, there is a choice of arranging the inside of its hearth. The most simple solution is to paste over its inside with a canvas with painted flames. More complex, but very beautiful solution are real logs stacked in in different order. For variety, firewood can be periodically rearranged, reduced or increased in quantity.
The next nuance is the imitation of fire in the fireplace. It is the flames that are associated with this structure. There may be several solutions to this issue.
You can create an imitation of fire in a fireplace with your own hands in the following ways:
- By placing several small incandescent light bulbs in the fireplace. They give a warm, even and dim light, reminiscent of the reflections of a flame.
- By placing a garland with a glow regulator in the firebox. By setting the appropriate mode, you can achieve the effect of flickering the flame, its intensification and weakening.
- By placing a special lamp in the hearth, which itself imitates a flame. The lamp should be placed so that its active element is in the middle of the pile of logs at the very top.
- Having installed several large paraffin candles for logs. A real fire will look great at any time of the year.
Before starting work, you need to draw up a project. This will help determine the need for property for construction. Let's look at how to make an imitation fireplace with your own hands from various materials.
Imitation of a fireplace made of foam blocks
In a city apartment, it is not advisable to erect heavy structures made of brick and concrete in order to create an imitation. This will create excessive pressure on the floor slab, which can cause uneven shrinkage of the house and the appearance of cracks on the walls. Foam blocks are ideal for simulating a fireplace. They have low specific gravity, large volume and clear geometric shapes. Working with such stones is easy and simple. Their surface can be finished with almost any type of cladding.
Fireplace portal made of foam blocks
For work you will need the following materials and equipment:
- building level;
- roulette;
- hacksaw;
- steel spatulas;
- rasp;
- marker;
- concrete adhesive;
- paint brush;
- liquid primer;
- putty;
- sandpaper and abrasive mesh;
- baseboards and moldings.
In order to build your own apartment fireplace from foam blocks, there is no need to create a solid foundation or remove flooring to concrete. It is quite enough to place a sheet of plywood on the floor.
You are offered step-by-step and detailed instructions to imitate a decorative fireplace made of foam concrete:
- Make markings on the floor and walls. Make a base and secure it to the floor. For this it is better to use Double-sided tape so as not to damage the coating.
- Lay out the first row of stones without gluing them. If necessary, adjust the masonry fragments.
- Connect the electrical wiring to the base. There is no connection to the network at this stage.
- Glue the starting row of foam blocks to the base. Check its horizontal level. For gluing, 1 mm of adhesive solution is sufficient, since the edges of the blocks are perfectly smooth.
- Lay out the portal in accordance with the project. If provided arched shape hearth, then it is done with a narrow hacksaw. Remove roughness using a rasp.
- The table top is being laid. Used large stove made of aerated concrete or a custom-made product. It is fashionable to make a tabletop from a board or timber.
- Treat foam blocks with liquid primer. Since this material is porous, the procedure must be repeated twice. The primer will make the surface of the fireplace resistant to moisture.
- Mix the solution and cover the fireplace with a layer of 2-3 mm. After the putty has dried, it is sanded and polished.
- The portal is lined with finishing. It matches the interior of the room. Use adhesive film, wallpaper, paint, ceramic tiles or artificial stone.
The final stage of construction is the arrangement of the fireplace. One of the advantages of aerated concrete structures is its mobility. The light fireplace can be moved to a new location at any time. This need arises when installing new furniture or carrying out renovations in an apartment.
We perform imitation from plasterboard
The use of drywall opens up virtually unlimited possibilities regarding the choice of decorative fireplace design. Thanks to this material, our imitation can be given a curved shape of any complexity. Drywall is easy to process and does not put much pressure on the supporting slab. The slabs are attached to the spatial frame. To create it, it is recommended to use steel profiles. It is easier to work with timber, but wood changes shape and size when air humidity changes. And this is fraught with the appearance of cracks in the finish.
The frame of the portal is made of plasterboard
To work you will need:
- perforator;
- screwdriver;
- electric jigsaw;
- roulette;
- level;
- hammer;
- plane;
- set of steel spatulas;
- serpyanka ribbon;
- liquid primer;
- putty;
- ordinary drywall;
- finishing;
- electric wires and backlight.
An imitation fireplace made of plasterboard is a rigid structure that is attached to the floor and wall. Based on this, you need to carefully consider the place where the fireplace will be located.
The assembly of a plasterboard hearth is carried out as follows:
- Markings are made on the wall and floor and places for drilling are marked. Holes are drilled into which plastic dowels are inserted.
- Blanks are sawn from the guide profile and screwed to the load-bearing surface. For this, self-tapping screws or dowel nails are used.
- The spatial frame is assembled. To connect its parts, cross connectors and a flexible profile are used if curved shapes are provided.
- The frame is covered with plasterboard. The joints should be located only on the profile. To bend drywall, it is first soaked for 15-20 minutes. Fastening with self-tapping screws is carried out every 15 cm.
- After the sheathing is completed, the corners are finished with a planer. The semicircular hole of the hearth is made with a jigsaw.
- Plasterboard is being plastered. Without fail, all seams are reinforced with sickle tape.
- The dried putty is polished and primed. After it dries, the fireplace is finished.
The finished product is strong enough to withstand heavy loads and impacts. Drywall is resistant to high temperatures, which makes it possible to install heating elements inside the fireplace.
Do-it-yourself imitation of a fireplace made of polystyrene foam
Choosing foam plastic makes it possible to create a lightweight, mobile imitation of a fireplace in a limited time and practically for nothing. To build a fireplace portal, you can use standard square slabs measuring 100x100x5 cm. The base and tabletop are made of slabs 100 cm long. Since polystyrene foam easily bends under load, it is advisable to reinforce the tabletop with plywood or boards.
To assemble a foam fireplace you will need:
- roulette;
- level;
- stationery knife;
- marker;
- square;
- rasp;
- glue or liquid nails;
- thick wire for making grates and pokers;
- finishing;
- rechargeable lamp simulating flame.
If you plan to finish the product with plaster, you will need a reinforcing mesh, a set of steel spatulas and gypsum mixture. However, if a decorative fireplace is conceived as a mobile or temporary structure, then its decoration is carried out with wallpaper or adhesive tape.
When it is planned to build a stationary fireplace, the work is carried out in the following sequence:
- A project is being drawn up. It consists of a scheme for fastening the slabs, the type of finishing and calculation of building materials.
- The work site is being prepared. Carpets, furniture and Appliances covered with a protective film.
- Blanks for assembling the portal are cut. They are attached to the base and glued together. The raised walls are covered with a tabletop.
- A curved opening for the hearth is cut. Irregularities are carefully removed with a rasp. The product is cleaned free of dust and foam grains.
- The portal is covered with reinforcing mesh inside and outside. It is applied to it thin layer plaster. The putty is leveled and treated with a liquid primer.
The final stage is the finishing of the portal and interior design hearth. The fireplace is covered with decorative strips and decorated with various crafts.
Imitation of wood in the interior of an apartment
A wood fireplace will look great in the interior of an apartment. With this type of imitation, decoration and furniture from natural materials, which has a positive effect on Feng Shui. You can raise the texture of wood using stain and varnish. In addition, if the situation in the apartment changes, the portal can be finished with almost any facing material.
To work you will need:
- roulette;
- electric jigsaw;
- plane;
- belt grinder;
- building level;
- screwdriver;
- hammer;
- screws and nails without heads;
- straight or rounded lining;
- timber 25×25 mm.
Before starting work, the lining must be treated with an antiseptic.
Assembly is carried out in the following sequence:
- Blanks are cut from timber. The frame is assembled using nails and screws for fastening.
- The frame is covered with clapboard. The portal is ground and polished. After this, the fireplace is cleaned of shavings and sawdust.
- The wood is coated with varnish or paint water based. To achieve the desired effect, this procedure is performed 2-3 times.
During operation, decorative shelves and other accessories can be screwed to the portal.
Check out the video how to use regular boards you can create a home decorative fireplace
A closed fireplace insert is safer to use than an open one. Therefore, installing a fireplace with a cast iron firebox is the best solution if there are children in the house. We will talk about the pros and cons of such fireplaces, as well as how to install fireplaces with your own hands, in this article.
A closed firebox is a chamber made of cast iron for burning wood, in which one of the walls is replaced by a glazed door. Very convenient door equipped lifting mechanism, pushing it up, under the lining, and allowing you to instantly turn a closed firebox into an open one. An ash pan is located under the combustion chamber, through which air enters it. And the smoke is discharged through a pipe installed in the upper part of the firebox. In principle, installing a fireplace insert involves constructing a base for it with your own hands and decorative cladding, allowing you to hide from view metal parts, leaving only the firebox visible and giving the fireplace its usual appearance.
It cannot be stated unequivocally that a closed firebox is better than an open one, or vice versa. The choice depends on many factors and conditions, and it is worth getting acquainted with them before you begin installation yourself.
Advantages
- A closed firebox has higher efficiency, especially if it is equipped with heat storage devices.
- Huge selection of models in different sizes appearance, glass shape, etc.
- Manufacturer's warranty for quality work fireboxes and smoke exhaust.
- Closed cast iron fireboxes last longer than open ones made of fireclay bricks, and burnt parts can be replaced.
- Absence open fire provides better fire safety.
- Lower overall cost of the fireplace compared to similar models with an open firebox made of fireclay bricks.
- Fast and simpler installation, which can be done with your own hands and without “wet” work.
Flaws
- A short review of fire, especially for economical models.
- You have to watch the fire through glass, which needs to be cleaned regularly (see).
- High-quality cast iron fireboxes, especially those combined with a portal into one structure, are quite expensive.
- The color of the standard firebox is black. If you want to complement it with a brass, gold-plated or silver frame, you will have to pay extra.
How to build your own fireplace with a cast iron insert?
One of the undeniable advantages of such fireplaces, which was not mentioned above, is the ability to install the base for them directly on the floor of the room. The only exception is floating floors. In addition, you don’t have to think about how to equip a fireplace with good draft or arrange an ash pit. All this is already provided for by the design. In a word, making a fireplace with a cast-iron firebox with your own hands is easier than laying out the simplest open fireplace made of brick.
Construction of the base for a cast iron firebox
- You need to choose the right place to install the fireplace. Firstly, the room must have sufficient area. Experts do not recommend installing this heating equipment in rooms whose area is less than 20 square meters. In addition, when choosing a location, do not place the fireplace in line with the openings of windows and doors.
- If the room is ventilated through a ventilation system or using an air conditioner, it is necessary to provide additional air flow into the room. For example, install ventilation pipe With automatic system ventilation. A fireplace with a closed firebox requires an average of 500 cubic meters of air
- Having chosen a place to install the fireplace, make a base for it. To do the work with your own hands, you need to put a layer of waterproofing and place a reinforced layer on top cement screed. If the floors are wooden, then a layer of thermal insulation is also required. The thickness of the screed is at least 10–15 mm; metal mesh can be used as reinforcement.
- After the base reaches the required strength, you can start constructing a pedestal for the cast iron firebox with your own hands. It can be made from brick, aerated concrete blocks or other material, or you can purchase and install a ready-made plinth made of natural stone.
- If the floors are not strong, then It is better to give preference to aerated concrete as a fairly durable and lightweight material that can be effortlessly given any desired shape and size. Subsequently, it can be plastered or faced ceramic tiles, natural or artificial stone.
- The blocks are laid using special glue or ordinary cement-sand mortar. The surface of the pedestal is leveled with a layer of plaster 1–1.5 cm thick.
Please note: the pedestal for installing the fireplace must be perfectly level. Installing the hearth on uneven surface prohibited, as significant misalignment increases the risk of damage internal elements fireplace In addition, the heating unit will operate unevenly.
Installation of a cast iron firebox
Regardless of what the base for the firebox is made of, a layer of thermal insulation is laid on it, for example, asbestos cardboard and a sheet of roofing iron.
Attention! When choosing a place for a cast-iron firebox, it is necessary to calculate so that a gap can be left between the walls of the firebox and the fireplace lining for the convection heating system. And the length of the chimney included in the kit should be enough to lead it outside.
To properly install the firebox with your own hands, place blocks in the place where it is installed, level the firebox in place, and then carefully remove the supports. The firebox chimney, made in the form of a metal sleeve or pipe, is installed in the hole intended for it and led out through the ceilings and roof in compliance with all fire safety rules.
Important! There are maximum standards for the deviation of the chimney pipe from the vertical, which must be taken into account when doing the work yourself. If its height is less than 5 m, then the angle of deviation should be no more than 45 degrees, and if over 5 m, then no more than 20 degrees.
External fireplace trim
If Bottom part the fireplace is already ready and only needs decorative finishing, then you just have to close it on the sides and top (see).
When answering the question of how to build a fireplace with a cast iron firebox with your own hands, you need to know what the installation will be made of. If it is made entirely of brick, then it is necessary to continue the laying, stepping back from the walls of the firebox at some distance and leaving several holes in it for the release of hot air.
But you can do it simpler and cheaper, at the same time significantly simplifying the structure, - arrange a frame under the cladding.
- The frame is easy to assemble with your own hands from thin-walled metal profiles or duralumin corners connected to each other with metal screws. Its design should provide for fastening the casing with outside and thermal insulation - from the inside.
- Thermal insulation mats made of non-combustible material are attached to the frame so that the foil side faces the firebox and chimney.
- You can cover the frame with your own hands using any materials: plasterboard, wood, asbestos-cement boards, etc.
- Openings are made in the thermal insulation and cladding to allow heated air to escape into the room.
Aerated concrete - universal material, which is also suitable for equipping fireplaces. But most often, gas blocks are used specifically to create the frame of finished cast-iron fireboxes, rather than open stoves. They lay out the base and form the body for the firebox and chimney.
As you know, aerated concrete retains heat well, but does not heat up itself. Therefore, the body of the fireplace made of aerated concrete will not heat up, and accordingly, the heating of the room will be weak and ineffective. Open fireplaces are best built from brick. When using a closed cast-iron firebox, the house is heated not from the fireplace body, but from the hot air that spreads through the ventilation ducts.
Therefore, aerated concrete with low thermal conductivity is excellent for this option. And given the simplicity of working with the material, many can make a fireplace from aerated concrete with their own hands.
How to make a fireplace from a gas block?
To build a fireplace from aerated concrete, you need to prepare the adjacent walls for high temperatures. It is recommended to cover them with foil basalt wool- it is fireproof and will effectively retain heat inside the fireplace frame.
The firebox itself should be located at a distance of 15-20 cm from the walls for free air convection.
A base is formed under the firebox - fireplace insert. You can make a reinforced concrete screed up to 20 cm high, or you can use aerated concrete blocks. They are especially good for wooden floors or floors with low strength, since foam concrete is light in weight. The base can be strengthened reinforced mesh, But it is not mandatory requirement, since a fireplace made of aerated concrete will be light.
Aerated concrete is simply and quickly processed, it can be given any shape with the tools at hand, so the base for the fireplace can be of absolutely any geometry.
To lay a fireplace made of aerated concrete, it is permissible to use cement mortar or assembly adhesive.
The foundation is plastered. A 2 mm thick steel sheet is placed on its horizontal surface, and an additional fire-resistant asbestos board gasket is placed under the combustion chamber.
After the firebox is installed, it is connected to the chimney. And further ones begin construction works. Each new row is checked with a level.
In order for an aerated concrete fireplace to last a long time, it is recommended to cover the inner surface of the masonry with basalt foil thermal insulation.
The fireplace body can be completely lined with aerated concrete right up to the ceiling, leaving a ventilation hole for the heated air to escape. It is covered with a decorative mesh.
You can combine materials: cover the firebox with aerated concrete, and cover part of the fireplace with the chimney with plasterboard on a metal frame.
Straightaway maximum load You shouldn’t put it on the fireplace; the temperature increases with each new firebox.
So, an aerated concrete fireplace is inexpensive, fast and reliable option for a private home or cottage.
To make a fireplace from a gas block, it is important to choose quality material, which has undergone autoclave processing, has sufficient strength and fire resistance. You can easily find one like this in the Porablock shopping center. It’s easy to calculate the amount of material and place an order on our website.
It is difficult to find a person who would not dream of a fireplace, but not everyone has the opportunity to make their dream come true. Therefore, many residents of city apartments often thought about how to make a false fireplace with their own hands? Building a decorative fireplace is a simple matter and does not require in-depth knowledge of the stove business, but some nuances still need to be taken into account.
Construction of a false fireplace from foam concrete
You will need:
- foam concrete blocks and slabs;
- hacksaw;
- adhesive for porous concrete;
- gypsum board putty;
- trowel;
- fiberboard sheet;
- putty knife.
It is easy to build a false fireplace with your own hands from foam blocks. This is a fairly light material that can be easily cut with ordinary hand hacksaw. The first step is to decide on the location for the future hearth.
If you plan to simulate a fire in the firebox using electrical appliances, you should install wiring to this location in advance.
Example 1. Construction of a decorative fireplace.
The appearance of the fireplace will depend on your wishes, imagination and size of the home.
First, a foam concrete slab is laid on the floor; it can be placed on glue, but this is not at all necessary. External corners, which will be located directly in front of the false fireplace, it is advisable to round them for safety reasons. The height of the base should not exceed 10 cm.
Next, the side walls are made; the foam blocks can be installed vertically - in this case, the structure will be narrower - or laid horizontally - for a wider false fireplace. If desired, you can cut foam concrete blocks and imitate brickwork. The parts are fastened together using a special adhesive for foam concrete or a sand-cement mixture.
After the side walls are installed, a foam concrete slab is glued on top of them, which will serve as a fireplace mantel. You have an almost finished frame for a decorative fireplace; the space for the firebox takes up too much space. In order to reduce it, from fiberboard sheet or plywood cut out the front of the fireplace with a window for the firebox.
If desired, the vault can be given the appearance of an arch or made smooth. The fiberboard is glued with the same glue as the blocks. If neither plywood nor hardboard is found on the farm, then the front panel can be cut out of corrugated cardboard, but in this case it must be treated several times with a solution of PVA glue and water, and also thoroughly puttied.
Next, you need to apply a thin layer of putty over the entire surface, Special attention attention must be paid to seams and joints. Using a flat spatula, apply the mixture onto the trowel, then spread the putty at an angle - from bottom to top.
It is best to putty the corners using a spatula. Now you need to let the first layer dry, then apply the finishing layer of putty. After drying, pass through fine sandpaper, the surface is completely ready for decoration.
False fireplace decoration
Not everyone knows how to make a decorative fireplace with their own hands so that it is not much different from the real thing. The finishing plays a big role in the design of the portal. So, using the same putty, you can create a variety of textures. If you scoop up the putty with a foam sponge and apply it to the surface with jerky movements, you will get an interesting rough texture.
You can leave it like that, but it’s better to paint the surface dark acrylic paint and immediately walk over it with a damp cloth, thus dark color will remain only in the recesses. Then silver or gold paint Apply to the tip of a brush or foam sponge and walk lightly, barely touching the surface.
If you have leftover drywall, you can cut bricks from them to decorate a false fireplace. It's better to give them not quite correct form, then it will be possible to make an imitation of the old, already lived-in masonry. The surface and side of the bricks are decorated with putty, it is applied with a spatula, deliberately leaving unevenness, allowed to dry, then painted in a suitable color.
Using beech wood putty, you can imitate a stone surface. It is applied to the fireplace portal using a spatula with chaotic movements. Then they draw the outlines of the stones with some kind of stick, take a bristle brush and, as it were, pierce the still damp putty with it, thus obtaining the texture of the stone, and allow it to dry. To make the stones look more natural, they are shaded with dark brown and black acrylic paint.
Do-it-yourself false fireplace made of plasterboard
You will need:
- drywall;
- rack and guide metal profiles;
- self-tapping screws for gypsum boards and for metal;
- screwdriver;
- knife and metal ruler;
- gypsum board putty;
- putty knife.
Before you make a false fireplace from plasterboard, you need to decide on its dimensions. The width and height of the frame will depend largely not only on the area of the room, but also on finishing material. If you are planning to tiling, then you need to take into account its width and height, add the distance between the seams, then there will be no need to cut the finish.
The first step is to apply markings for the guide profiles on the walls and floor, then secure them. If you find that the wall has significant deviations, then use fastening loops to attach the guides to the surface. Next, the rack profiles are inserted and connected to the guides using metal screws.
The first step is to install the base of the decorative fireplace, after which they begin to manufacture the portal. If you want the firebox window to be arched, then make cuts on the profile every 5 cm and bend it in a semicircle.
All that remains is to cover the structure with plasterboard; if you are planning tiled cladding, then opt for a waterproof option. You can use a utility knife for cutting. A metal ruler is applied to the drywall, then a deep cut is made along it.
After which the sheet is bent in half and tapped on it, the drywall should break exactly along the cut line. If you need to make a semicircle, then cut it out using a hacksaw. Sheets are fixed to the frame special screws for gypsum boards that have a countersunk head.
Example 2. Construction of a decorative fireplace.
After the structure is ready, it is necessary to putty all the seams. If the fireplace is tiled, the surface is not treated, but if it is painted, the fireplace is completely puttied. For cladding, tile adhesive is used, it is diluted according to the attached instructions. Work starts from the bottom, the glue is applied with a spatula with a smooth surface on small area, then go through the serrated side.
The thickness of the adhesive layer should not exceed 10 mm. Then apply the tile, press it a little, and tap it with a rubber hammer. Separating crosses are used for seams. After the masonry is completed, it is left until the glue dries completely. Then the joints are grouted.
Making a false fireplace from plasterboard is much more difficult than from foam blocks, but the result is worth the effort. Portals made from this material almost completely replicate a real fireplace.
Most popular blog articles of the week