Correctly calculated distance between supporting elements
When starting work on building their own fence, every home builder dreams of creating a beautiful and durable structure. But the use of the most the best materials and the zeal of the craftsman do not guarantee that the fence will live up to your hopes.
Basics of calculation
To prevent a fence built with your own hands from becoming a source of severe headaches for you, you must carry out all the calculations correctly.
- optimal distance between pillars;
- the depth to which they need to be installed in the ground;
- parameters of pillars and sections, that is, height, thickness, area;
- the amount of material needed for construction.
Remember that for mistakes the fence will “revenge” its creator with rickety posts, cracks and other troubles. In the case of light fences, correcting the error is not so difficult. For heavy stone and brick fences, negligence in calculations will result in large financial losses and the need to completely redo all the work.
Materials for racks and types of fences
DIYers most often install wooden, metal, stone, concrete or brick pillars. Wooden ones are the cheapest, but also the least durable. They are mainly used for fencing made of the same material.
Metal is stronger, but cheap material and for this reason it is very popular. Posts made from it are used for all types of fences, with the exception of particularly heavy brick and stone structures.
Concrete and stone are the most durable, but difficult to install and expensive. Their use is justified when a heavy fence made of stone, concrete, brick or a solid forged metal fence is being built. Brick ones are loved by all home craftsmen. More about them below.
Now let's look at the most popular fence options, paying special attention to the distance between posts:
- Mesh fencing. Their height usually does not exceed 1.5 m (this is exactly standard width roll of chain-link mesh). To create the most robust construction it is enough that the distance between the posts is 2.5 m. With a larger distance, it will not be possible to stretch the mesh well.
- Brick fences. The height of this type of fence varies from 2 to 3 m. It is not recommended to make brick fences higher. It is better to install pillars every 2.5-3 m. The structure will be durable, beautiful and optimal in terms of financial costs.
- Fences made of corrugated sheets metal supports. Considering standard sizes profile sheet, experts advise placing poles every 2-2.5 m.
- Wooden fences are built so that the distance between the posts is in the range from 2 to 3 m.
When the material is selected, you will need to calculate your “own” distance between the pillars.
What determines the distance between the pillars?
First of all, the distance between the fence supports depends on the material from which the posts and fence sections are made. In addition, it is necessary to take into account the parameters of the structure itself. The higher it is, the more often you will have to install supports. Wind and weight loads increase. It is also important how firmly the supports are installed in the ground. The stronger, the greater the distance between them can be.
When calculating the distance between posts, it is recommended to determine the position of corner posts, gates and wickets. It should be borne in mind that it is advisable to make all sections the same size. Now do some simple arithmetic calculations.
For example, if the area on which the brick fence will stand is 9 m, then you will need 3 posts at a distance of every 3 m. And for a fence of the same length made of corrugated sheets - 4 posts, and the distance between them will be 2.25 m .
Why not put more pillars, say 5 or 6? Unfortunately, too many posts will not benefit your fence. This will only unjustifiably increase the cost of the fence and create unnecessary load on the foundation, make the fence insufficiently flexible and reduce its ability to withstand wind loads. The fence will be less attractive in appearance.
What if the distance between the fence posts is increased and, accordingly, their number is reduced? In this case, the structure will not be strong enough. For fences that use logs, the load on the support posts will increase, so they require a stronger foundation. And, again, the appearance of the structure will suffer greatly. Therefore, we choose the “golden mean”.
What determines the installation depth of the pillars?
On the one hand, the deeper the support is, the stronger the structure; on the other hand, the cost of work increases with every centimeter of depth. They become more labor-intensive and require attracting technical means. Here you need to determine best option. The installation depth of the supports depends on the following factors:
- the parameters of the fence, that is, its height and weight - the larger they are, the deeper the well for support should be;
- wind loads, which depend on the type of structure (transparent or solid) and terrain features;
- soil type, its composition, freezing depth, level groundwater and so on.
It is important to remember that the supports are affected by the force of the wind and the weight of the structure. Together, these two forces create a torque that reaches a maximum at the point where the support leaves the ground. Bending moment is the main cause of structural failure. But it will not be able to harm your fence if the installation depth of the posts ensures their sufficient elasticity.
Calculation of depth using an example
Here is an example of calculating the depth for a solid fence with the following parameters:
- fence height – 2 m;
- section width 2.5 m.
By multiplying these two values, we determine the area of each section: 2 * 2.5 = 5 m 2. To determine the wind load, it is necessary to multiply this value by the aerodynamic coefficient (for middle zone accepted 1.4) and the magnitude of the wind pressure (approximately 40 kg).
Multiplying, we get: 5 * 1.4 * 40 = 280 kg. That is, each rack in our design will experience a weight load of 280 kg. To calculate the bending moment, this value is multiplied by a constant equal to 0.8: 280 * 0.8 = 224 kg/m.
To determine the required depth, it is enough to divide this value by the coefficient of the moment of resistance, which is taken equal to 225 kg. We get: 224 kg/m: 225 kg = 0.99 m. That is, approximately 1 m.
With such a depth of installation of the support, wind and weight loads will be fully compensated. But it should be remembered that the top layer of soil is usually quite loose, so another 20 cm is added to the obtained value.
In addition, one more thing needs to be taken into account important point– depth of soil freezing. If in your area the soil tends to swell when it freezes, then bottom part supports must be buried below the freezing level. This is approximately 1.5 m deep for the middle zone. If this is not possible, then the support in the lower part is concreted with an extension that plays the role of an anchor.
Brick pillars are the best option
The tree is not strong enough metal pole requires constant attention, and creating a concrete structure is a costly and lengthy process. Brick fence posts are especially loved by home craftsmen. We will talk about them in more detail, but first, all about the advantages of brick pillars.
First of all, this universal design. It can be used for almost any type of fence, such as wood, metal or brick. The construction of a brick pillar does not require the use of expensive equipment.
A correctly folded and installed brick pillar will not require any attention in the future. The brick pillar is good combination superior performance, attractive design and exceptional durability. At the same time, we should not forget that when we talk about the advantages of a brick pillar, we mean a structure built according to all the rules from high-quality material.
Nuances of choice
For selection good brick and its proper installation requires certain knowledge and skill.
Brick pillars vary:
- according to the type of brick used. It can be a regular ceramic, silicate, clinker, hyper-pressed type;
- in height, which depends on the height of the fence itself;
- according to the installation depth of the metal pipe, which is selected taking into account the characteristics of the terrain and soil, as well as the height of the fence;
- by type of masonry. The most popular is one and a half or two bricks. The thickness of the pillar and the amount of material required will depend on the type of masonry.
The disadvantages of brick pillars include their high cost. Therefore, it is especially important to choose the right type of pillar and calculate how much material is needed for its construction.
Calculation of the number of bricks
Experienced craftsmen do not recommend using bricks from different batches (even if the samples are of the same brand) for the construction of brick pillars. Firstly, a microscopic difference in composition can result in a difference in thermal expansion coefficients. The likelihood of cracks will increase. Secondly, the color of samples from different batches may not match, which will not have a very good effect on the appearance of the fence.
The home craftsman is faced with the task of immediately purchasing the required amount of material and, at the same time, getting by with minimal financial costs. We'll show you how to do it necessary calculations. An example would be a pillar with the following parameters:
- type of masonry - one and a half bricks;
- the dimensions of one brick are standard 0.25* 0.12* 0.065 m;
- seam thickness – 1 cm;
- pillar height – 1.5 m.
Let's calculate the number of bricks. To install one row, you need 4 bricks, the thickness of each row is equal to the thickness of the brick plus the thickness of the mortar layer: 0.065 +0.01 = 0.075 m. Then the number of rows in the column is calculated to be 1.5: 0.075 = 20 rows.
Since each of them contains 4 bricks, a total of 80 bricks are required for one pillar. It is recommended to purchase bricks with a small margin of 5% in case of damage or defects. Thus, you will need to purchase 84 bricks to build one pillar.
Calculate the amount of solution
For masonry, its volume is taken equal to 1/5 of the total volume of brick, which will be: 0.25 * 0.12 * 0.065 * 80 = 0.156 m 3. Dividing by 5, we get a value of 0.032 m 3 - this is the amount of mortar that will be needed for masonry.
But don’t forget that you still need to fill the cavity inside the column with the solution. It has the shape of a parallelepiped, at the base of which is a square with sides of 0.14 * 0.14 m and a height of 1.5 m. We calculate its volume: 0.14 * 0.14 * 1.5 = 0.0294 m 3. Total solution: 0.032 + 0.0294 = 0.0614 m3.
So, for one pillar you need 84 bricks and approximately 0.0614 m3 of mortar (to put it in simpler terms - a little more than six standard buckets).
In fact, the required amount will be slightly less, since the reinforcement also takes up some volume. The difference (subject to use for these purposes steel pipe 80 * 80 mm with a thickness of 2 mm will be about 1/10 of a standard bucket) can be attributed to Unexpected expenses. And they are always present.
Similarly, you can calculate the amount of material for laying two bricks or for pillars of a different height. You will also have to calculate the required amount of brick and mortar for sections, reinforcement and everything necessary for the foundation.
If all the calculations are completed and all the nuances are taken into account, you can purchase the material. And start building your own fence. Let it be successful!
Metal grid - convenient option demarcation of the area. This is due to the availability of the material, ease of installation, and minimal labor costs. High-quality installation of a chain-link fence has certain nuances on which the durability of the fence depends.
Chainlink fence
The mesh differs in cell sizes, as well as in the material used. The cheapest is considered to be a mesh with large cells, woven from black wire. It is not suitable for a permanent fence, but is suitable for temporary fencing. Black wire corrodes easily, so it will only last three to four years. Sometimes its service life is extended by painting or treating it with bitumen.
Galvanized wire makes the mesh strong, durable, and more attractive in appearance. This kind of chain-link is more expensive, but it can be used to build permanent fences - light but durable. Nowadays, manufacturers additionally coat galvanization with protective polymers, which give the mesh a different color.
In order to choose correctly and not overpay, you must first decide on the purpose of the mesh. If you need to temporarily fence or demarcate an area, you should not take an expensive chain link; the most ordinary one will do. If you plan to install a permanent fence, be sure to choose high-quality galvanized mesh. To make the fence decorative, you can purchase colored mesh.
Galvanized mesh
Fine mesh is usually purchased for fencing. poultry so that the chickens do not crawl into other areas, for example into the garden. If the fence is needed for demarcation, a chain-link with large or medium cells is suitable. Everyone chooses the height of the fence separately; The mesh width is from a meter to 1.8 m, the standard length is 10 m.
How to choose support pillars
High quality fence installation chain-link mesh DIY means not only technology, but also a competent choice of load-bearing supports.
They are:
- metal;
- wooden;
- reinforced concrete;
- asbestos.
The light weight of the fence allows it to be used metallic profile cross section 60x40 mm, thin pipes and channels. Such supports have relatively high price, but they look neat and last a long time. Iron fence elements need to be treated with anti-corrosion mixtures and also require painting periodically. If hollow posts are used, they must be covered with canopies or special covers on top.
Columns from profile
Wooden posts are not as strong, but are much cheaper. The processing of wooden stakes for mesh is simple: they are cleared of bark, thoroughly sanded, the lower part is coated with bitumen, the rest is painted or primed with an antifungal compound. This allows you to significantly extend the service life of the columns.
Reinforced concrete pillars, like asbestos pipes, are the most convenient supports for such a fence. They are cheaper than metal ones, more durable, do not require processing, and they also do not need to be repainted annually. In any weather conditions, concrete supports are consistently reliable.
Fence installation
The installation process includes the following steps:
- perimeter markings;
- digging holes;
- installation of poles;
- mesh fastening.
Despite the simplicity of execution, the installation of a chain-link fence still has certain subtleties on which the reliability of the structure depends.
Making the markings
It is necessary to determine the location of the corner posts by marking them with pegs. Then connect them with a stretched cord, fishing line or rope. If the fence has turns, measure the required distance from the post, drive in a peg and pull the cord again. This is how the perimeter of the future fence is marked. Next, you need to outline the locations of the remaining supports. To avoid unnecessary sagging, the posts are placed every 2 m, maximum 2.5 m. This means that 2 meters are measured from the corner and a mark is placed, and so on until the end of the fence.
Fence marking
How to dig holes correctly
For such light fence It is not necessary to dig the pillars very deeply. Sometimes they are simply driven in if the soil is dense enough and there is no risk of flooding of the area. This method is justifiable to use temporarily, but for a permanent fence it is better to dig the posts and concrete them. The easiest way to dig holes is with a garden drill; it is convenient, quick and saves energy. You won't be able to dig a narrow hole with a shovel; then you'll have to fill it up a lot and compact it. The depth of the holes is approximately 1 m, on loose soil - 1.2 m. Often the installation of mesh fences is carried out this way: holes are dug only to half the required depth, after which the supports are driven in.
Installation of pillars
To prevent the supports from sagging or warping, a sand cushion is placed at the bottom, on which a little gravel is poured. You can also sprinkle crushed stone or broken bricks.
- level;
- concrete solution;
- spacers
The pillars are lowered and leveled, in addition, they are leveled in height. Crushed stone and earth are poured into the hole and compacted with a crowbar. If the column is hollow inside, it is filled with solution; then they are leveled again, strengthened with spacers and concrete is poured.
Important! Posts for wickets and gates must be concreted especially securely, since they are subject to the greatest impact. In addition, such supports should be thicker than others, and they need to be buried deeper.
Mesh fence diagram
Chain link fastening
The better the preparation, the easier it is to install chain-link fences. The first roll of mesh is placed vertically near the corner post. Using a knitting wire, the edge of the fabric is attached to the support in three places along the height. Unwinding the mesh, the roll is moved to another post and pulled tightly. Again they fix it with wire and move on. Another way: the roll is unwound completely along the line of the pillars, then with a sharp movement the mesh is lifted vertically and one end is screwed to the support. From the other end of the roll, a section of profile is threaded vertically into the cells - this will help to properly tension the mesh and not damage the shape of the cells.
Attaching the mesh to the stand
The second option requires the presence of an assistant, otherwise the chain-link will get tangled. It is very important to tension the canvas evenly, or some spans will be level, others will sag. You should not attach the mesh close to the ground - you need to leave a distance of 15 cm from the ground. When the canvas is completely secured, a thick wire must be threaded along the top of the mesh to prevent possible sagging. If you need to connect two pieces of mesh, unscrew the wire spiral and tie both pieces together with it.
Using chain link mesh for fencing
27.05.2012 08:11
Most popular country fence today, is a chain-link fence. Mass recognition and interest of summer residents
deserved it for a reason. The most important advantage is the price of a chain-link fence. The cost of installing a chain-link fence, in comparison with other types of fences, it differs significantly, of course, to a lesser extent. The low price of a chain-link fence is due to two indicators: the price of the material and the cost of installation. The price of chain-link mesh, or to be more precise, one roll today ranges from 280 to 550 rubles. The cheapest is a galvanized chain-link mesh with a small wire diameter, and the most expensive is a polymer-coated chain-link mesh. The color of the polymer coating of the chain-link mesh has virtually no effect on the price of the product. As for installing a chain-link fence, we can say - “a chain-link fence can be easily installed with your own hands, without the use of special installation tools.” ASK Egida company will help you understand all the intricacies of this type of work.
Instructions for installing a chain-link fence
Before installing the fence, we mark the corner posts and the installation location of the entrance gate with a wicket. Corner posts 
It is recommended to concrete them, since the main force from the tension of the mesh will be distributed on them. Posts for installing chain-link mesh are mainly used with a round section, with a diameter of 38 to 60 mm, a length of 1.5 to 4 meters, depending on the type of soil and the purpose of the fence. The most common height of a chain-link mesh roll is from 1200 to 1500 mm, and the length is from 10 to 15 meters. After installing the corner posts, we stretch the twine between them along the top and bottom. The bottom twine is necessary for straight-line marking of the fence between the main corner posts. The top twine will later serve to mark the height of the fence 
and horizontal alignment. The next stage of installing a chain-link fence is to determine the equal distances between the posts and their number. Example:
- Let's say the distance between the corner posts is 36 meters. The distance between adjacent pillars should be 2.5 meters.
- We divide the length of one side of the fence by the distance between adjacent posts 36: 2.5 = 14.4 We received the required number of posts - 14.5 pieces. Next, we divide the distance between the corner pillars (36 m) by the number of pillars obtained (14.5 pieces) 36:14.5 = 2.48 meters. We have determined the distance through which the pillars need to be installed from each other. It was 2.48 meters. You don’t have to catch millimeters, since visually on such a flight they will not create problems with asymmetry.
Having determined the distances, we choose the method of installing the posts for the chain-link fence. There are three of them. The first is the simplest: driving a post into the ground. Performed using a unified device. If you hammer with a regular sledgehammer, there is every chance of denting the pipe heads and ruining the presentation of the future fence. Be careful. The next type of installation of a fence pipe is layer-by-layer crushed stone with a tamper. Refers to the cheapest and at the same time in a reliable way installations. This type of installation completely eliminates winter heaving and squeezing of the pole out of the ground. The last type of installation includes the two previous methods, only together with them there is a parallel process of concreting, both partial, only the upper part of the column, and complete to the depth of soil freezing.
Well, the pillars are installed, and it’s time to install the chain-link mesh. Installation of chain-link mesh begins with unrolling the mesh rolls along the installed posts. Next, you need to connect the edges of adjacent rolls together so that you get single grid, equal to the length of one side of the section. Tying the ends of adjacent rolls is performed as follows: it is necessary to unscrew the outer wire from the end of one roll, then both ends of the adjacent rolls are aligned with each other, and the unscrewed wire is screwed back in, connecting both ends together. In this way, all other rolls are connected to each other.
After weaving the chain-link mesh, we proceed to the final stage 
installing a fence, hanging the mesh on mounted poles. Here you will need an assistant; stretching the chain-link mesh alone is a very tedious task. Two people lift the net from the ground and lean it against the posts. If there are pre-prepared mustaches on the pillars, then the chain-link mesh is put on them. If there are no such whiskers, then the chain-link mesh is fixed to the first post using metal clamps or plastic ties. Next, one person goes ahead and lifts the net, and the second tightens it and fixes it on the pole with clamps. Thus, the entire perimeter is hung out. In order to avoid sagging wire in the future, especially this happens in winter, when the mesh is covered with wet snow and it sags under its weight, you need to run it along the top of the mesh fence steel wire. It is passed between the upper mesh cells along the entire perimeter of the fence. After installing it, you will forget about the problems associated with the sagging of the fence. Article prepared by the company ASK Egida, who will be happy to help you with installation of any types of fences at a reasonable price If you can’t install a fence yourself.
Comments
2014-05-12 08:40:02Sergey Ivanovich
Well written. It is especially useful about weaving two rolls together. When I made my fence at the dacha about ten years ago, I connected the mesh together with wire and didn’t know that it was woven so simply and there were no seams left. I found out a year later when an acquaintance suggested who they came to the dacha with to drink firewater. He laughed for a long time at my fence.
Reply / Quote
To: Sergey Ivanovich, [email protected], #791006
2014-05-12 08:40:46ASK Egida
))) Thank you
Reply / Quote
To: ASK Egida, [email protected], #791206
-=OZZY=- 13-01-2014 17:04
This season, it looks like we will have to put up a fence at the dacha.
I would like to ask advice from comrades who are more experienced in this matter.
So,
Main tasks of the fence:
- visualization of the boundaries of the site;
- presence designation;
- restricting the access of animals of the “hare-the-size-of-a-dog” type to garden plantings.
Because of long length For the fence, I chose the option made of galvanized chain-link, as the most suitable according to the price/quality criterion.
IN general technology The installation is clear, but there are questions:
1) How to stretch the horizontal wire between the posts, which supports the mesh at the top and bottom (and is this wire needed at all?).
2) What is the installation depth of the pillars? I want to deepen it by 1.5 m (not counting the crushed stone cushion), 1.5 m will be above the surface. Fine?
3) I will not concrete the pillars, I will fill them with the same crushed stone and sand. Fine?
4) If the span between the pillars is 3 m, will the mesh sag?
5) And most importantly, is it really possible to do all the work alone?
Maybe there is a more budget option - if anyone knows, please advise!
Thanks in advance to everyone who responded!
N. Valerich 13-01-2014 18:03
quote: Maybe there is a more budget option - if anyone knows, please advise!
The most budget-friendly option in our area is to take a machine to “cut off” waste from sawing logs into boards, etc.
They usually give it away for free, you only pay “for the car.”
Sometimes you come across “decent waste” from which come out “poles” for the spans between the pillars. BUT!!! But such a fence does not look particularly aesthetically pleasing.
quote:2) What is the installation depth of the pillars? I want to deepen it by 1.5 m (not counting the crushed stone cushion), 1.5 m will be above the surface. Fine?
I did this: I sawed an asbestos pipe in half 3.90:2 = 1.95 m, drilled a hole about half a meter deep with a fishing auger, hammered into the hole all sorts of iron such as fittings, angles, metal profiles, in short - all sorts of rubbish 60-70 cm long and what- would go into the pipe. I put the pipe-post on the “piece of iron” and poured cement mortar low strength in order to save cement.
Gee 13-01-2014 18:30
It’s better to fill it up, because even when pulled, the rubble pole can tilt
ehpebitor 13-01-2014 18:43
2. One meter into the ground is enough. What is the height of the chain link!?
3. If you drill into the ground the diameter of the pillars, then you don’t need to fill in or fill up anything, I have black soil, everything itself floated during the season. The pillars stand like soldiers for exactly the third season.
4. It all depends on how you pull it.
5. Photo of him performing work in the studio!
A little more inexpensively, I installed a mesh of 4mm thick rods. The rods are welded 100x100mm. Mesh size: length 3 meters, height 2 meters.
Die Zamirov 14-01-2014 09:19
I have asbestos-cement columns dug in at 70 cm without any filling or backfilling. I didn’t pull anything on either the top or the bottom, it’s been standing for about five years, maybe a little more.
Abar 14-01-2014 09:37
Is there a dyed chain link for sale? And at what distance is it better to place the pillars?
DoC81 14-01-2014 10:03
from personal experience of tensioning a chain-link: I did it using only knitting wire and using electric welding (I really liked it and therefore recommend the second). vertically inserted the reinforcement into the chain-link and welded it to the post, then to the next one as well. I tightened it using the clamp of welding pliers (they are adjustable in width) - the tension turns out to be like on a drum. I buried the pillars into the ground only half a meter, filled the hole drilled with a fishing drill with crushed stone and filled it with sand mixture. By the way, I made an enclosure for a dog, 2x3x2m.
Mikhai 14-01-2014 10:46
About twenty years ago, my dad and I were putting up a net at his dacha…. The mesh size was about 8x8 cm. The mesh was extremely poorly made, as there were “tails” sticking out from all sides. Having secured the edge and unwinding part of the mesh, by twisting and unscrewing, the top and bottom were aligned. After two or three unsuccessful attempts to pull this piece of g... we sat down to guess. And that's what came to mind!
Roll out the mesh from pillar to post.
We fasten one edge, level the top and bottom
In the area of the next post, we insert a 1″2-inch pipe from the end of the mesh (it fits perfectly between all the cells, ensuring uniform tension)
audentes 14-01-2014 10:47
1) if you pull the wire, then after I stretch it it’s better to weld it with a stalemate
2) In Kuban the ground freezes 30-40 cm, we bury it at 50-60 cm, I’ve had it for 4 years now
3) if you don’t use concrete, it’s best to use crushed stone with clay and sand, about 5-2-2 (1) (you just need to tamp it down with a stick, they stand like a concrete one, but tighten the mesh after a couple of days, as the pillars are installed and compacted, the first day the pillars should be shed with water more so that the ground subsides
4) it definitely won’t sag two meters, it’s been installed like this for 4 years
5) Easy! but laziness is damn hard
Z.Y. There is an interesting way to tension the mesh using two pieces of reinforcement alone, but I can’t explain it here, I have to show it here, you can tighten it and it will ring (provided the wire of the mesh itself is of high quality)
Z.Z.Y. I put barbed wire above and below, now even a rare cat gets into a dog’s teeth, but before they got through under the mesh
Die Zamirov 14-01-2014 11:12
I drilled through asbestos-cement pillars, inserted a pin, pulled the mesh over it and pressed it with a strip of metal. Two studs are enough, the distance between the posts is about 2 meters.
-=OZZY=- 14-01-2014 11:52
Not suitable according to the technical specifications) “- restricting the access of animals of the “hare-the-size-of-a-dog” type to garden plantings.”
quote:Originally posted by N. Valerich:
The chain-link mesh has virtually no windage, so you probably shouldn’t bother with the posts.
The windage is clear. I am more worried that the shallowly planted posts will be squeezed out in the spring and the fence will be uneven.
My soil is heaving and the freezing depth is on average 1.5 m.
quote:Originally posted by Mikhai:
We take a jack from the “classic”, the support is on the post, and the pipe on the lifting part (the hollow is made like a specialist) and smoothly pull the whole thing.
After such tension, the top wire is not required; it is enough to bend the “antennae” down.
Oh, here it is real option, thank you very much for the advice! There was a jack like this somewhere.
But I wanted to pull it with a machine - also insert the pipe into the mesh, hook the rope tied to the ends of the pipe onto the towbar, and carefully pull it with the machine.
quote:Originally posted by ehpebitor:
1. Do not pull the top wire along the very top, but step back 100-150 mm from the top, this will make it more difficult for two-legged people to climb over!
Let's take it into account, thank you!
quote:Originally posted by audentes:
There is an interesting way to tension the mesh using two pieces of reinforcement alone, but I can’t explain it here, I have to show it here, you can tighten it and it will ring (provided the wire of the mesh itself is of high quality)
If possible, draw at least roughly!
-=OZZY=- 14-01-2014 12:08
Yes, the fence height is planned to be 1.5 m
Abar 14-01-2014 13:08
quote: I am more worried that the shallowly planted posts will be squeezed out in the spring and the fence will be uneven.
My soil is heaving and the freezing depth is on average 1.5 m.
Nekton 14-01-2014 14:12
quote:Originally posted by Abar:
Is there a dyed chain link for sale? And at what distance is it better to place the pillars?
-=OZZY=- 14-01-2014 15:02
quote:Originally posted by Nekton:
There are special drills - you can dig a reverse cone and fill it, then it won’t squeeze out.
Is this what you mean TISE? Well, under the posts for the chain link is too cool
From extrusion, as far as I understand, it is enough to drill below the freezing depth and fill the post with crushed stone and sand (a non-heaving mixture is obtained).
I could be wrong, but I read that it is concreted pillars that are being squeezed out, because... heaving soil engages with concrete...
-GTO- 14-01-2014 15:05
At my dacha there is snow up to tomatoes in some places, and in some places across old fence peasant (now, however, already corrugated) one could simply step over
-=OZZY=- 14-01-2014 15:40
quote:Originally posted by -GTO-:
Is 1.5 meters in height not enough for hares?
I don’t know, maybe not enough for the snowy season!
limited by budget, so 1.5 m.
DIZZI 14-01-2014 16:12
I also recommend how to fasten the bottom of the chain-link in the span. My bitch easily picks up the chain link with her muzzle and crawls under the fence. Moreover, it does it right off the bat. Even on video it looks cool from the outside.
audentes 14-01-2014 17:12
quote:Originally posted by Nekton:
It is better to take a chain-link with a polymer coating. More expensive, but will last longer.
lutik1313 15-01-2014 12:18
I did this this summer - I buried the posts 1 meter deep, 2 meters on top. I inserted the post, poured 5 liters of water into the hole and filled it in. I did not pull the horizontal wires (and there is no need to) the edges were simply fastened together with wire, although there is a way when you take out one core and the edges are sewn together with it. in fact it didn’t work out, I didn’t have enough patience and experience. I pulled everything with a chain hoist (it turned out to be almost a monolith), attached the bottom to the ground with l-shaped pins and dug in around the perimeter old slate by 20 cm, the dogs couldn’t even bend the fence with a running start. It won’t be possible to do it alone, you need 2 people. One pulls the mesh, the other ties it to the supports
-=OZZY=- 15-01-2014 09:37
lutik1313, thanks for the detailed answer!
what was the distance between the pillars?
What did you hook the chain hoist to and did you use a rod to tension the mesh?
What did you fill the hole with?
what model of chain hoist did you use?
Pavel_A 15-01-2014 10:09
I haven’t read everything, maybe I’ll repeat it.
I did this:
2″ pipes 3 meters long. installed at a depth of 1.2 m at a distance of 3.3 m from each other. The mesh, 2 m high, was stretched without wire. It has been standing for 8 years, everything is OK. The only thing is that you need to take care of strengthening the corner pillars.
Before this, there was a chain link on asbestos poles filled with mortar inside. 6mm wire was stretched at the top and bottom in 2 layers. This fence stood for about 15 years. The AC pillars unfrozen and began to break.
Based on this experience I can recommend:
The posts are 1 1/2″ pipe, 3m long. Drive (drill) into the ground 1.2 m 3 meters apart.
Stretch a 2 m high mesh without wire.
The result is a fairly cheap, practical and durable fence. If the pillars freeze, they can be easily driven into place with a sledgehammer. In cases of warping, it is easy to correct. Ordinary pillars (on a straight section) do not require maintenance for a long time (in 8 years I have never straightened or driven in pillars).
Labor costs for such a fence are minimal. The service life is comparable to a permanent fence on a foundation, or even longer.
Abar 15-01-2014 11:39
I would like to do this, but I still need to put in a concrete screed so that the soil doesn’t flow down to my neighbor, who is lower down. I need this one concrete screed deepen and for how long? Or just formwork on top and poured directly on the ground?
Pavel_A 15-01-2014 12:04
quote:Originally posted by Abar:
Do I need to deepen this concrete screed and for how long? Or just formwork on top and poured directly on the ground?
I would dig a trench at 0.7 m, fill it at 0.5 m and pour the tape 0.2 m deep + as far upward as necessary (within reasonable limits).
Abar 15-01-2014 12:44
Is it necessary to bury it?
Scarecrow Wise 2 15-01-2014 14:09
It is completely unnecessary to dig in pillars 1.5 meters deep - no one does that. 0.5 meters is basically enough. The distance between the pillars is 3 meters is too much, it seems to me that the top will sag, maybe 2 meters. You can not pull the wire from below, prepare hooks from thick wire (or thin reinforcement), one end is 30 cm, the other is short, and use them to pull the bottom the edge of the net to the ground, sticking the long end of the hooks into the ground.
lutik1313 15-01-2014 23:57
the distance between the pillars is 2.5 meters. I didn’t use a rod, I just hooked it onto the cell. I pulled the pulley then my mother kept it taut and I attached it to the nearest post in three places with wire, etc. I simply filled the hole with earth after pouring water. There were only two pulleys blocks and rope in three rows. I pulled everything so that it rang. But this is a little unnecessary, you can’t guess with the expansion and contraction of metal in winter and summer
Pavel_A 16-01-2014 08:08
quote:Originally posted by lutik1313:
I pulled everything so that it rang. But this is a little unnecessary, you can’t guess with the expansion and contraction of metal in winter and summer
It’s not scary for the chain-link, it deforms well.
Duga 16-01-2014 08:57
quote: Scarecrow Wise 2
posted 15-1-2014 14:09
It is completely unnecessary to dig in pillars 1.5 meters deep - no one does that. 0.5 meters is basically enough.
-=OZZY=- 16-01-2014 09:11
The mesh, 2 m high, was stretched without wire. It has been standing for 8 years, everything is OK.
What did you use to pull it on?
How did you attach the mesh to the post?
quote:Originally posted by Pavel_A:
The only thing is that you need to take care of strengthening the corner pillars.
Scarecrow Wise 2 16-01-2014 10:39
quote:Originally posted by Duga:
Maybe in the Crimea? In the Moscow region, 0.9 m is definitely not enough. Gradually it begins to stick out, to different heights. And I also noticed that where it is damper (for example, under the slope of the roof) it sticks out more. Apparently, wet soil freezes more strongly.
Last summer, my father at the dacha changed the fence, an old chain-link fence (about 20 years old, if not more) with a welded mesh in a “checkered” pattern. I had to take out some of the pillars - there were half a meter there, and some concrete at the very bottom. Nothing ever stuck out, at least not enough to be noticeable. And for so many years the earth was compacted - they stood tightly, there was no way to shake them, even though it was only half a meter.
Scarecrow Wise 2 16-01-2014 10:43
By the way, “pillars” are not at all necessary for a very budget option. Simply hammer a pipe 50 millimeters in diameter with a sledgehammer. We still have many such fences left at our dachas, despite the invasion of wealthy Muscovites in recent years. Our old fence had more substantial pipes - 100 millimeters.
Pavel_A 16-01-2014 13:48
By the way, “pillars” are not at all necessary for a very budget option. Simply hammer a pipe 50 millimeters in diameter with a sledgehammer
By modern standards, pipe 50 is considered very good option for the fence. I suggested 32mm (40 outer diameter)
What did you use to pull it on?
How did you attach the mesh to the post?
quote:Originally posted by -=OZZY=-:
how to strengthen them? dig deeper than the rest?
I tied one to the neighbor’s main fence, the second I installed a pipe 80 and deeper (about one and a half meters deep). But we have a swamp and the pipe is slightly askew in the direction of the grid.
-=OZZY=- 16-01-2014 15:32
quote:Originally posted by Pavel_A:
I pulled it by hand and secured it with galvanized wire directly to the posts.
well tensioned if the 2 m high mesh does not sag without wire!!
quote:Originally posted by Pavel_A:
To securely fasten it, you need to install slopes between the outer pillars diagonally, or weld the first span from the corner with a profile.
Karabas Barabas 18-01-2014 14:01
I had a temporary chain-link fence for 7 years. Together with my dad, I did this:
1. We hammered in approximately 2.5 meters of cutting pipes with a diameter of at least 5 cm, as far as it fit.
2. They stuck fittings and other relatively straight pieces of iron into the pipes.
3. We unwound the chain-link on the ground along the proposed fence and wove all the rolls into one fabric.
4. The mesh was successively lifted and tied with wires.
On one side there was already a poor fence, so the fence was only 100 meters. We dealt with the smoke breaks in half a day, of course, not counting the time for preparation and delivery of scrap metal))
I believe that in the spring we will have to divide the plot into animal-garden zones and make enclosures. It seems like a small thing, but it will be expensive if you hire builders, and it’s awkward, somehow, I can do it myself)))
theorist 19-01-2014 12:11
quote:Originally posted by Scarecrow the Wise 2:
0.5 meters is basically enough
In my case it turned out to be completely insufficient. It was correctly noted above that the depth should have been about a meter.
theorist 19-01-2014 12:14
quote:Originally posted by -=OZZY=-:
how to strengthen them? dig deeper than the rest?
Make struts from the same pillars.
Abar 19-01-2014 17:04
For me, yes, you need at least a meter, if you are making your own and it’s better to concrete the pillars for a long time, a drill with a reverse cone is not that expensive, and such pillars will last a long time and, in theory, should not be walked around...
Abar 19-01-2014 17:04
quote: In my case it turned out to be completely insufficient. It was correctly noted above that the depth should have been about a meter.
For me, yes, you need at least a meter, if you are making it for yourself and for a long time, it is better to concrete the pillars, a drill with a reverse cone is not so expensive, and such pillars will last a long time and, in theory, should not be walked around...
button 19-01-2014 18:53
quote:Originally posted by -=OZZY=-:
But what if you just take the corner posts from a thicker pipe and dig them in at 1.5 m?
-=OZZY=- 20-01-2014 08:27
quote:Originally posted by button:
Yes, corners don’t play a special role
How come they don’t play like that?
on ordinary poles, the load from the tension of the mesh acts in opposite directions.
on corners - in different directions at an angle of 90 degrees, i.e. the resulting force is directed towards the area...
button 20-01-2014 10:40
quote:Originally posted by -=OZZY=-:
How come they don’t play like that? on ordinary posts the load from the tension of the mesh acts in opposite directions. on corner posts - in different directions at an angle of 90 degrees, i.e. the resulting force is directed towards the area...
Dim, well, this is theoretically if PPC how to pull it
in practice, the tension will drop and will collapse like a normal fence somewhere closer to the middle
chukapabra 20-01-2014 13:07
1) Welded mesh - refuse
it is only good on flat areas
and it doesn’t stretch - it’s very tedious to install it
2) height more than 1.5 m
otherwise an adult cow will completely attack her
well and at big snow you can just step over it
accordingly, the pillars are higher than one and a half m
GOST standards regulate many things, including how areas can or cannot be demarcated. For example, regulations require that neighboring areas be demarcated with transparent fences. Since the boundary is usually long, it is desirable that the fence be inexpensive. Actually, the choice is small - a chain-link fence or a wattle fence. The wattle fence, although cheap, is extremely short-lived, so all that remains is a mesh fence. In general, it’s correct to say “chain-link fence,” but it’s more common for the ear to incline the name.
Popular and inexpensive - chain-link fence
Whatever this fence is called, it has a significant number of positive aspects. The first and most important advantage is low cost. This applies to both the filling itself - the mesh, and the rest of the structure. To tension the mesh, no foundation is required. It is enough to drill holes about a meter, insert a post and, filling it with crushed stone, compact it well. That's it, nothing concrete works. On most soils, this method of installation for this filling works “five”.
Designs and installation methods
The fact is that a chain-link fence is lightweight. Moreover, it is light both in terms of its own weight and in terms of perceived wind loads. Whatever strong winds did not blow, the pressure transmitted by the net to the poles remains insignificant. Due to their low weight, this technology for installing pillars can be used: in a hole, backfilled with sand or crushed stone, without concrete. Moreover, such a fence stands without problems even on heaving clay soils with a high level of groundwater, and even with a large freezing depth.
Without guides
Here's how it works. We are talking about the simplest design: just pillars with a mesh stretched between them. As you can see, the pillars are buried to a depth of less than a meter. What happens to such a fence on soils that drain water normally? All water located near the column goes down through the sand or crushed stone to the bottom of the hole. There it leaves naturally - it seeps into the underlying layers. Even if frost hits and the sand or crushed stone around the post freezes, the moisture contained is not enough to have any significant impact on the post.
The simplest design of a chain-link fence
On clays and loams you can use the same principle, but you must fill it with gravel. And be sure to pour 10-15 centimeters of gravel at the bottom of the hole, and only then install the post. What happens in this case? Water still accumulates below, but it leaves very slowly. It may well happen that by the time it freezes, the crushed stone will still be wet, or even in water.
What will happen then? It will freeze and become hard. But since the soil also freezes, it puts pressure on the crushed stone. The forces are considerable, and the ice breaks, the rubble becomes mobile and compensates most pressure created by the soil. As a result, if movements of the pillars occur, they are very small - from a few millimeters to several centimeters. Since the structure is not rigid, the mesh will easily transfer it without any harm. After everything thaws, the pillars will lower into place. But such a scenario only occurs if they are positioned perfectly vertically. Otherwise, the pillars may tilt and everything will have to be corrected.
With guides (slugs)
Sometimes, to make the fence more solid and hold its shape better, two longitudinal guides are attached to the posts. They may be made of pipes, or they may be made of timber. Wood, as a plastic material, will withstand ground movements remarkably well, but a welded pipe will create additional difficulties.
Chain-link fence with metal guides
The degree of rigidity of such a fence is higher, and during heaving, if the posts are squeezed out, it is quite possible that in some places the pipes may be torn off. To prevent such a situation, you will have to dig below the freezing depth in your region. Everything else remains the same: the hole is 15-20 cm deeper than required, there is crushed stone at the bottom, then a pipe is inserted and filled with well-compacted crushed stone.
Sectional
There is another design of a chain-link fence. Frames are made from the corner, onto which the mesh is then stretched. The finished sections are welded to the exposed posts.
Sectional chain-link fence
As is clear from the description, the design is also quite rigid. This means that on heaving soils (clay, loams) it is necessary to bury the pillars 20-30 cm below the freezing depth of the soil, but it is also advisable to do this without concreting. If you fill crushed stone with concrete, the likelihood that the pillar will “squeeze out” increases many times over.
Types of chain-link mesh for fences
Even such a seemingly simple material as chain-link mesh can be different. Moreover, the difference is significant both in price and in service life.
Plastic or polymer mesh - 100% polymer
In addition to different materials, the chain-link has different size cells. It varies from 25 mm to 70 mm. The larger the cell, the cheaper the mesh, but the less load-bearing capacity it has. If you are installing a chain-link fence at the boundary with a neighbor, take mainly the middle link - from 40 mm to 60 mm.
What to look for when choosing a mesh
Carefully inspect each roll. Its edges should not be curved. The upper and lower cells should have curved “tails”. Moreover, it is desirable that the length of the bent part be more than half the length of the cell. This mesh is easier to stretch.
The edges should be smooth and curved
Pay attention to the thickness of the wire, how even the cells are, how ugly they lie. All deformations are a sign of low quality.
If the mesh is polymer-coated, check the warranty period provided by the manufacturer. With the cheapest ones, not only does the wire often bend, but they also use ordinary plastic, which, under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, after a couple of seasons becomes brittle and begins to crumble. Normal coating can last up to ten years or more. Therefore, in this case, there is no need to chase cheapness.
Read how to make a fence from corrugated sheets here.
Which pillars to use
There are several options:
The most convenient option of all those mentioned is a profile pipe, and better - a rectangular one. It is easy to attach the mesh to it, and you can weld hooks or wire if necessary. If possible, install these. Optimal cross section for a pillar - 25*40 mm or so. There is no need to take a larger cross-section - the fence is light.
The order of installation of pillars
First, the pillars are placed in the corners of the site. If you want to fence only one side, place one post at the beginning, the second at the end. Their verticality in all planes is strictly checked, and the height is adjusted. At the very top and 10 cm above ground level, two cords are pulled. The rest of the pillars are placed on them. The height is leveled along the upper cord, the lower one serves to facilitate orientation: by applying a plumb line to a point on the upper thread, you can find the place where the hole will be drilled.
Installing posts under a mesh fence
The installation step of the pillars is 2-3 meters. Less is too expensive, more is no point, the mesh will sag. When installing a grid without a guide wire, it makes sense to place posts every 2 or 2.5 meters. This makes it easier to tighten the mesh without sagging. For other models - with wire, slugs (guides) or sections - the step can be 3 m.
Example of corner post reinforcement
If the mesh is pulled between the pillars, the outer ones will bear a considerable load. To prevent them from being led away, they put up jibs. They are placed, dug in, and welded to the installed pole.
Installation of chain-link mesh
It’s only at first that it seems easy to install a chain-link fence. As soon as you start to think about how to fix the mesh on a pole, how to tension it, everything is not so obvious and simple... First, about general rules. The mesh is attached to one of the corner posts. Fasten in at least four places. In principle, you can simply fasten it with wire, passing it into the cell.
Methods for attaching the mesh to the pole
The method is simple, but not the most reliable. If the fence is at the dacha, during the absence of the owners, the mesh can be easily removed and taken away.
You can at least secure it more securely on the first and last pillar. To do this, take a steel rod with a thickness of at least 4 mm, thread it through the cells, weld it to the post, grabbing each 40-50 cm (pictured on the left).
Another way: weld three or four rods with a diameter of 6 mm to each post. A mesh is placed on them and they are bent.
Weld the rods, stretch the mesh, bend
If you are still paranoid about the fact that I will remove the mesh, you can drill two through holes in the post, insert a rod bent in the shape of a horseshoe - U, gripping the mesh with the “back”. On the side where the ends come out, twist and rivet them, or weld them.
Tensioner
There is another problem: how to tension the mesh. If the design is simple - without slugs (transverse guides that are fixed between the pillars), you can simply stretch the mesh from one pillar to another. Just note that it must be attached sequentially to each post. Fastening first through one, and then intermediate ones is a bad idea: there will definitely be uneven tension and sagging.
How to tension a chain-link mesh so that there is no sagging? Insert the rod, grab it and pull with all your weight. The stretch will be quite significant. You need to work with an assistant: one pulls and holds, the second fastens.
With wire
This type of fence is good because it can be installed quickly. But the top edge may sag. If someone climbs through it, the top will definitely become wrinkled. It is unlikely that it will be possible to straighten it. To prevent the top from sagging and “creasing,” a wire is pulled through the first row, it can be steel, or it can be in a plastic sheath so that it does not rust.
To prevent the mesh from sagging, a wire is pulled on top
If wire is used, the technology can be simple: make a loop at the end and throw it over the outermost post. They unwind the wire, trying to tighten it; after two or three posts, make another loop, wrapping the wire around the post. So until the end of the flight. If you use muscle force, you won't be able to pull it enough, and the wire will inevitably sag. This is easy to fix. Take a thick metal rod and use it to twist it, pulling the wire. Is one twist not enough? A little further you do another one. This way you pull up all the “spans”. Afterwards, you can begin to “pull” the mesh, tying it to a stretched wire.
If you weld “ears” at the top of the post - a metal strip with holes, the wire can be attached to them. It is easier to stretch a piece of 2-3 meters, but the work is slower.
Another way to attach wire
You can also use special wire tensioners. Then, having secured the wire on one pole, on the second it is passed into a device such as in the photo. It is secured in a clamp, and then using a key, the excess is screwed onto the drum.
Special wire tensioners
You can use a cable and lanyards - hooks with ties-clamps (at a rigging store). On one side, a cable is twisted around the pole and secured with a clamp. A lanyard is placed on the other. Its middle part has a thread, thanks to which the cable can be tensioned.
Lanyard with cable - another option
Since the cable is more flexible, it can be passed through the links. Each one will be too long, after two or three cells it’s normal. One more thing: take a cable with a polymer sheath: it will not rust.
With welded rod
A steel rod with a diameter of 6-8 mm is threaded into the upper cell, or just below. It is cut into pieces equal to the distance from one pillar to another. The threaded rod is welded to the post.
Welded rod threaded through the cells
Pay attention to the top of this chain-link. This photo clearly shows that it has already begun to bloom. This is precisely the reason why it is necessary to take a mesh with curved ends. It just doesn’t unravel and even without wire or rod it holds the edge well.
With slugs (guides)
In even more rigid structures, after installing the pillars, slugs are welded to them. These are cross pipes or wooden strips attached between the posts. There may be one guide, or there may be two or three.
Chain-link fence with slugs
As you can see in the photo, in this case the mesh can also be secured using wire. It is clear that all the methods described above can be used. The only difference is that the mesh is attached not only vertically, but also horizontally. The photo below shows another method - with plates screwed on with bolts, the ends riveted. This method can also be used when attaching to poles.
Another way to attach chain-link to metal poles
Read how to make a wooden wicker fence here.
Decoration of a chain-link fence
No matter how happy the fence may make you at first, after some time you will want to either decorate it or make it less transparent in order to hide from prying eyes.
The first way - the most obvious - is to plant plants. If the neighbors do not object, you can plant bindweed or any other annual or perennial plants.
The most natural way is to plant plants
If you just want to decorate your fence, you can do “embroidery”. The squares are the same size, so you can embroider as if on canvas. There are two materials for embroidery: wire and colored twine.
A decorated chain-link fence looks incredibly beautiful
The good thing about colored twine is that you can “embroider” colored pictures. Any that seem appropriate to you.
Embroidery on mesh with colored twine
Like this)))
A not very aesthetic, but quite effective way is to stretch a camouflage or shading mesh. The good thing about these methods is that they require a minimum of effort: just pull it on and grab it in a couple of places.
Camouflage mesh on the fence significantly reduces visibility of the area
The shading mesh is almost opaque and the wind load will hardly change
The same effect is achieved if twigs or reeds are woven into the cells. The disadvantage of this option is its high labor intensity. It will take a lot of time.
Weave reeds or thin twigs into the mesh
Ready-made reed mats can reduce manufacturing costs. They are sold in rolls. All you need to do is roll it out and secure it. But the cost is much higher than the previous option.
Reed mat
Another way is to use artificial pine needles sold in rolls. It is used in the manufacture of baskets and wreaths, but it can also be used on a fence.
Green wall - chain-link mesh decorated with artificial pine needles
Not long ago, another way to decorate and, at the same time, reduce the visibility of a chain-link fence appeared - a photo grid. This is a pattern printed on a polymer mesh. Sold in rolls (for tension fence) or fragments (for sectional ones). Attached using eyelets and wire or clamps built into the surface. You can see the approximate effect in the photo below.
Street lighting is very different from the home lighting we are all used to. Everything here follows pragmatism, functionality and durability. After all, if all this is not observed, then the street type of lighting will be of little use.
Street lighting
One of the most important parameters outdoor lighting is the correct calculation of the distance between street poles. Moreover, if in the city center this issue is not so sensitive, then in the private sector and on the outskirts, as well as in the countryside, certain difficulties may arise in terms of implementation. Our article will tell you what you need to know about such a concept as the distance between lighting poles.
Features of outdoor lighting
For many years, lamp posts have been actively used for outdoor lighting in cities and villages. Today they can be made in various ways and from different materials(concrete, reinforced concrete, metal).
Purpose street version lighting is to create a full luminous flux for various areas of the city:
- roadways of highways, highways;
- sidewalks and pedestrian roads;
- parks and squares;
- territories of state, public and educational buildings;
- parking;
- gas stations, etc.
Wherever there is a need to install outdoor lighting, a fair question always arises - what should be the distance between two adjacent poles.
To understand why this distance is so important, you need to know what a support for a street lighting option is. This support consists of two parts:
- Light source. Lighting fixtures are always placed at the top of the lamppost. What kind of lamps the support will be topped with depends on the place where it is placed. Powerful spotlights should be used to illuminate highways, but decorative lanterns are suitable for parks and squares;
Note! Street risers with decorative lanterns can be used both by city authorities for illuminating parks, and by private individuals when installed in the garden. With such poles and lamps you can decorate the entire perimeter of your garden.
Decorative lamp post
- the pillar itself. It can have different heights depending on where it will be placed. In the city and in the countryside, such poles are usually of sufficient height so that the incident light from the lamps forms intersecting lighting cones.
Note! If you have a dacha, then you can install lamp posts in the garden with your own hands for lighting of any height.
To street lighting could fully illuminate certain areas of a city, village or garden, the distance between the pillars should be such as to form intersecting cones of light.
In addition, the supports themselves can be used to not only hold lamps at the desired height, but also power cables. In such a situation, the distance for supports, unlike poles with lamps, may not be so small.
Features of the distance between supports
The distance between adjacent pillars is called the span. For such spans, the regulatory documentation (GOST, SNiP) has its own rules and regulations. An example of such spans is given below.
Span between pillars
Moreover, each case of installation of poles for outdoor lighting in a city, village or country house will be regulated by various points and have different points of implementation, including the distance existing between the poles.
According to regulatory documentation, the calculation of the span length (the distance between two adjacent pillars) should be based on the following parameters:
- the level of illumination established for a specific area (city, village, cottage);
- the type of lamp (especially its power) that will act as the main lighting element;
- the height at which the lantern will be placed;
- light source option: LED, fluorescent and other light bulbs.
It is worth noting that the optimal distance that can exist between the supports will be 35 m. This applies to both lighting poles and power line supports.
Additional nuances to consider
When installing supports that will be placed along streets, squares and roads (in a city or in a village), it is important to consider not only the distance between the posts, but also their distance from other architectural and/or road elements.
Lighting poles along roads
- there must be a distance of at least 1 m from the support to the curb. This requirement is relevant for highways. For other roads this distance decreases and amounts to 0.5 m;
- for roads where large trucks do not drive, the distance is 0.3 m;
- in the absence of a curb, the distance from the road to the support must be at least 1.75 m.
These parameters, albeit indirectly, can affect the distance between the pillars. Any change in the position of the pole will affect the cone of light produced by the lantern. If it is not possible to comply with such requirements for the placement of supports, then the spans between them will need to be reduced in proportion.
Within the city, the height of lighting poles should be 20 m. But this parameter must be economically and technically justified, as well as convenient to maintain.
How is the required parameter determined?
Any installation of lighting poles always begins with accurate calculations of the following parameters:
- optimal placement of poles with lanterns. Here you need to indicate at what distance from neighboring objects each specific pillar will be located;
- the span that will be formed between adjacent supports.
Street lighting plan
If everything is relatively clear with the first point, since there are specific rules that must be obeyed. However, difficulties may arise in determining the distance between adjacent supports, since this parameter depends on:
- the number of lighting fixtures that will be placed on the pole;
Note! As an external type of lighting, a wide variety of lighting installations can be used here: spotlights, lanterns, lamps, etc.
- height of placement of lamps;
- their power.
Using the above indicators, as well as special tables specified in the relevant sections of the regulatory documentation.
Street lighting standards
As can be seen from the table, using specific parameters you can quite easily calculate the distance between supports that should be formed in a particular case.
Within the city limits, the optimal distance between lamps will be 35 m. But if necessary, the distance can vary depending on the current situation.
Note! In the city, the determination of this indicator, just like in the village, should always be based on the three parameters given above.
Street lighting in the village
It must be remembered that the step ratio lighting fixture to the height at which it is placed for roads and streets is in a ratio of 5:1 for one-way traffic, as well as for rectangular and axial placement of lamps. This indicator will already be 7:1 when using a checkerboard arrangement of lamps.
It should also be noted that the data given in the table are indicated as maximum. They are designed taking into account the required road illumination.
Based on this data, you will be able to correctly calculate the required span in any possible situation. This will help you not only determine how accurately utility workers adhere to established rules and recommendations, but also do everything yourself. This knowledge will not be superfluous if you decide to install outdoor lighting in your country house.
What is it for
Correctly determining the span between lighting supports will allow you to achieve:
- creation of full-fledged lighting provision throughout the entire section of the roadway;
- high-quality lighting of sidewalks, squares and parks;
- creating conditions for the safe movement of vehicles on roads, as well as people along sidewalks and pedestrian crossings;
City street lighting
- reducing the level of illegal actions, which, according to statistics, are committed in poorly lit areas of streets, parks and squares;
- maintaining the city's infrastructure at the required level.
If an error has crept in at least somewhere, then the external lighting system will not be able to perform its direct functions at the proper level.
Conclusion
To determine the distance between lighting poles, you do not need to carry out complex mathematical calculations. It’s enough just to find out all the necessary criteria and use them to find out from the table desired value. Everything here is simple and clear.
Solving the problem of flickering LED strips when turned on
There are fences various types- from modern fencing with horizontal metal picket fences, which can be ordered on the website zabor2000.ru, to brick or chain-link fences. The choice is always up to the owner summer cottage, but when installing or constructing it yourself, it is necessary to determine the dimensions of the structure, and most importantly, the distance between the pillars in the 1st span. The stability, reliability and durability of the entire structure depends on this.
The length of the span between the supports is selected depending on the type of fence. The greatest demand is for enclosing structures made of the following materials:
- brick (stone);
- corrugated sheeting;
- tree;
- Rabitz.
Brickwork
When building a fence made of brick or stone, the posts are usually made of similar material or reinforced concrete. The distance between the pillars is mainly ensured within 2.5-3.5 m. They are found with spans of up to 6 m, when the total length of the fence is too large, and finances for the purchase of building materials are limited. In this case, in order to increase strength characteristics It is recommended to additionally reinforce the structure - additionally lay steel wire with a cross-section of 4-6 mm in the seams between the rows of bricks (over their entire length). It is more expedient to reinforce every 2-3 rows.
There are many design options for brick fences - with forged sections, inserts made of corrugated board, wood, mesh, etc. But this should in no way affect the span length between the load-bearing supports - it should be no more than 3.5 m.
Installation of posts for mounting a fence made of corrugated boards, boards and chain-link mesh
It is advisable to use these materials as fence posts profile pipe cross section 40×20 or 40×40 mm. It is allowed to use a round pipe with a diameter of 40 mm or an angle No. 63.
To install the supports, it is necessary to prepare a hole 500-600 mm deep and 300-400 mm wide, place the prepared post in it and drive it a little into the ground. Compact to a height of 100-200 mm with dump slag and fill the base with concrete level with the ground surface. This will significantly increase the rigidity of the fence.
When creating a fence between the posts, you need to maintain a distance of 2-3 m. These are the optimal values, which, if observed, will ensure high strength designs and minimal labor intensity of the process. Increasing the pitch leads to a decrease in the reliability of the fence, its increased tendency to deform, and as a result - unjustified financial costs for restoration.
The fence performs not only a protective function personal plot or a certain territory, but is also the hallmark of the object. A structure that seems simple at first glance requires detailed and precise adherence to certain rules during its construction.
Preliminary calculation of the fence will allow you to avoid future problems associated with skewing, tilting, falling and other troubles.
Fencing design
Any fence can be divided into several structural parts:
- load-bearing frame formed by posts that take on the total load of the fence;
- cladding part, consisting of corrugated board, picket fence, metal mesh and other material;
- cross members (logs), giving the structure additional rigidity and strength;
- fastening material.
It is obvious that the main role is played by the load-bearing part of the fence.
The most commonly used pillars for the frame are:
- metal;
- asbestos-cement;
- brick;
- wooden.
Calculation of fencing costs
Construction cost
When building a fence with your own hands, it is very important to know how to calculate the length of the fence in relation to the cost of the linear and square meter future fencing.
Before deciding to build a structure, it is necessary to accurately calculate the cost of the fence.
The following instructions are suitable for carrying out calculations.
- The calculation begins with measurements of the perimeter of the object that needs to be fenced;
- After this, a decision is made on the type of load-bearing and enclosing part of the structure;
- Then the quantity of necessary building materials is determined, their price is necessarily taken into account and the cost of the work is added;
- To install a beautiful, practical and strong fence, it is necessary to accurately and correctly calculate the amount of building materials, including at what distance to place the fence posts. Both the reliability of the design and the financial costs depend on these calculations;
- Price is calculated linear meter fencing of the required height;
- The total length of the structure is multiplied by the cost per linear meter, and the approximate financial costs for the required structure are obtained.
Calculation of linear meter of fence
- To do this, you need to divide the total length of the structure by the useful width of the selected sheet. As a result, we get the required number of sheets;
- We multiply the resulting number of sheets by the required height of the fence;
- We multiply the result by the total width of the corrugated sheet and obtain the required area of material for the fence;
- By multiplying the area value by the cost of one sheet, we get the cost of a linear meter;
- It is imperative to take into account the cost of joists and supports.
Calculation of support depth
Any fence is subject to the force of the structure’s own weight, which is directed strictly along the axis of the post, and the force of wind pressure, which is applied across the structure. Therefore, a torque (bending) moment acts on the support, which has a maximum at the point where it leaves the ground.
Bending moment is the main cause of destruction of enclosing structures. There is no point in taking into account the force of its own weight when calculating the racks, since it is minimal and does not have a significant effect on the strength of the base.
Many owners are also concerned with the question of how deep to bury a fence post?
Important!
To determine the depth of the supports in the ground, the calculation of the wind load on the fence must be taken into account.
- First you need to calculate the estimated area of one link (section) of the future fence. If we assume that the width of the fence section (L) is planned to be 2 meters, and the height (H) is 1.5 meters, then the area (S) of one section will be 3 sq.m. (S = 2.0 m * 1.5 m = 3 sq.m.).
The same area will be allocated to each pillar (1.5 meters of each section of the structure to the right and left of the support); - To obtain the value of the wind load on the structure, it is necessary to multiply the section area by the aerodynamic coefficient and the magnitude of the wind speed pressure. Aerodynamic coefficient (constant value) for vertical design equals 1.4. The accepted value of wind pressure is 40 kg per sq.m.;
- In our case, we find that the pole experiences a wind load of 168 kilograms (3 sq.m * 1.4 * 40 kg/sq.m. = 168 kg).
- We calculate the torque acting on the support. To do this, we multiply the wind load by a constant factor (168 kg * 0.8 = 134 kg/m);
After determining the torque, divide it by the value of the drag moment coefficient - 225 (constant) (134 kg/m / 225 = 0.6 m); - Calculations show that in order for the wind load to be fully compensated and the fence to be absolutely independent of the wind, it is necessary to lay the pillars to a depth of at least 60 cm. To be sure, you can add another 20 cm, since the soil at the very surface of the earth is quite loose;
Advice!
To get one hundred percent confidence in the stability of the fence, regardless of the type of soil, groundwater level and material of the enclosing part of the structure, it is necessary to bury the frame into the ground to half the height of the fence, plus another 10 centimeters).
- If the soil at the site where the structure is installed swells during freezing, then the installation depth of the support posts must be further increased to 1.5 m.
In places where it is not possible to deepen the supports to the calculated depth, corners are welded to the posts to expand the support area; - In the case of using metal supports, it is necessary to fill them inside with liquid cement mortar. To protect metal pipes from corrosion, they are coated with red lead;
Advice!
To extend the service life of wooden poles, their underground part must be treated blowtorch, soak (coat) with kerosene-bitumen antiseptic, heated bitumen or special impregnation, and also wrap it with roofing felt.
- The bottom of the pit is filled with sand. The support is sprinkled with broken bricks (gravel), covered with earth on top and thoroughly compacted. For greater stability.
You can learn more about the features of installing fence supports in the video in this article.
Calculation of the number of supports
For example, it is planned to install a fence 1.6 m high with a total length of 40 meters. The role of the base will be performed by support posts cemented in the pits, and the enclosing part will be made of painted corrugated sheets.
Profile pipes are one of the most common materials for the manufacture of supports and frames, because rectangular section convenient to use during installation.
Knowing the parameters of the corrugated sheet, we determine the number of sheets that will be needed for the fence.
If the total width of such a sheet is 1.18 m (working width is 1.14 m), then we divide the total length of the fence by the working width of the sheet and get the value - 40 m / 1.14 m = 35.08 pcs. This means that to build a structure 40 meters long, 35 corrugated sheets are needed.
Advice!
The resulting value must always be rounded up.
To calculate the number of pipes as a support, it is necessary to divide the total length of the upcoming fence by the length of one section (span), which is usually 2.0 - 2.5 meters, and add one to the resulting value (40 m / 2.5 = 16 + 1). Thus, 17 support posts are needed to install a fence with a total length of 40 meters with a section width of 2.5 meters.
Distance between supports
The selected distance between fence posts depends on their cross-section. The higher the structure you want to build, and the greater the distance planned between support pillars, the more durable and large cross-section the pipes should be.
For example, for a fence 2 meters high and a section width also 2 meters, it is necessary to use round pipe 76 x 4 mm, or square 60 x 4 mm or more.
Conclusion
When calculating a fence, all indicators are important, including the distance between fence posts, which determines the stability and strength of the entire structure as a whole.