How many degrees of frost the roses can withstand without shelter. Ice is worse than frost

To category: Useful for the gardener

Rose care

Many lovers try to breed several rose bushes. The bushes that have taken root in their summer bloom, but they do not tolerate the winter well and die by next spring. At the first failure, gardeners lose interest in growing this wonderful flower. And in vain!

There are several reasons for the death of rose bushes in winter. Only knowing them, you can successfully use techniques that contribute to the normal overwintering of roses. Care for their overwintering should be shown from the moment of planting. The bed or flower bed for roses should be 10 centimeters higher than the surrounding area. Around the entire perimeter, it is surrounded by a groove to drain excess snow and rain water. Planting the same bush is carried out so that its root collar is at a depth of three to five centimeters in the soil.

During the summer, roses are fed two to three times with nitrogen fertilizers, and in August twice with potash and phosphorus fertilizers. Watering and loosening the soil should be carried out systematically. It is necessary to constantly monitor the health of the bushes. When signs of powdery mildew or black spot of the leaves of roses appear, they are immediately sprayed with sulfaride or copper oxychloride. If aphids or leaf-eating caterpillars appear, spray with karbofos. The consumption rates for these drugs are indicated on their labels. The implementation of the listed measures ensures normal health and good preparation for winter.

All cultural groups of roses, both grafted and rooted, as well as climbing and miniature roses in the Kaluga climate require shelter for the winter. Winter is the most crucial period in their life. The biological dormancy of the bushes in winter should be ensured by the correct preparation of the bushes for shelter and their timely shelter. Errors can lead to freezing, and most often damping out of the root system and the aboveground part, “which also leads to the death of the plant.

It must be borne in mind that the aboveground part of the rose bush can withstand frosts of up to 10-12 degrees, and the root collar of the bush can withstand frost only at three and a half degrees. When signs of the first frost appear, sprinkle the root collar of each bush with dry peat, sand or garden soil five to eight centimeters high and cut the branches to a height of five to six buds; or 40 centimeters from the soil. Then all the leaves are removed from the stems with scissors, leaving the petioles one centimeter in length ... All leaves are removed from under the bushes and burned together with the cut branches. In climbing or semi-pebbly roses, the branches are not cut off, and after removing the leaves, the lashes from the branches are laid on the soil and covered with a film on top. At this time, it is necessary to cover the bushes with a film so that it does not touch the soil, and around the entire perimeter there would be 10-15 centimeters of clearance for ventilation. In this case, the film should serve as a kind of umbrella that protects the rose bushes from autumn rains and the first snowfalls. To achieve this, the film is placed on a frame made of metal or wooden rods. You can also use old apple boxes with gaps between the boards.
After the first frost, not exceeding five degrees of frost, a second filling is made under the bushes of dry peat or dry fine soil up to 20 centimeters high. I do not use sawdust and fallen leaves of trees, so as not to attract murine rodents.

With the onset of frosts down to -10 degrees, the bushes are completely covered. Kraft paper from old paper bags is laid directly on the bushes in two layers. And on top of the paper they cover the entire bed with a film, the edges of which are fixed on the soil, pressing them down with stones or bricks. At the same time, dry boards or plywood are always placed under the branches of climbing roses.

Such a shelter is called air-dry. Roses overwinter well under it. I have been covering roses in this way for 20 years and have not had any bushes in the entire time.

Experienced rose growers are well aware that in our area with proper preparation and the shelter of roses, the mortality of bushes in any winter does not exceed three to four percent. Therefore, in the gardens of lovers, roses overwinter satisfactorily. But the same cannot be said about the street plantings in Kaluga. From year to year, the death of roses during overwintering is unacceptably high. Their mass death in Kaluga lies on the conscience of Zelenstroy specialists and plant planters of enterprises responsible for planting, caring for and preparing plants for overwintering.

In the spring, one should not be late with the opening of the bushes. In accordance with the weather and temperature, it is necessary to open it gradually, "accustoming" the bushes to new weather conditions. Sometimes it is necessary in winter, with prolonged thaws, to air the shelter. Following the spring opening, peat, sand or soil, used for hilling bushes for the winter, is removed.

Roses can grow in Kaluga. They should bloom constantly in the summer in order to decorate our city, to delight its residents and guests.

A. Arbeiter

- Rose care

There is an opinion that roses are capricious plants. But this is not at all the case. A rose requires care, dressing and watering no more often than its other cousin in a flower bed. It is important to properly cover these flowers for the winter so that the roots and stems are not too hot or cold.

Rose is not as delicate as she seems. After reading about the temperature at which to cover roses for the winter, many may be surprised. After all, not everyone knows that a bush with ripe stems will calmly endure frost down to -8 ° C. Excessive overheating and moisture during wintering are much more dangerous for a plant, because of which they can simply be matched. Therefore, it is important to know how to properly cover the roses.

First, there is no need to be frightened if it is -1 ... -3 ° outside, and the plants are not yet covered. Let them pass hardening in this way.

Secondly, in order for the bushes to winter well, they are not fed in the fall and watering is stopped.

Thirdly, if prolonged rains are expected in October, then the ground under the bushes should be covered with dense cellophane. Then the plant will not be afraid of excessive moisture during wintering.

Easy shelter for roses

They begin to warm roses for the winter when the weather has settled at 0 ... -1 ° С. This is the temperature at which experienced florists recommend. Usually in middle lane this corresponds to early November. But they should be bent to the ground until frost, at + 2- + 6 ° C, then the lashes are more pliable.

After the theoretical knowledge about the temperature at which roses are covered has been obtained, they should be prepared for winter. First, all unripe shoots are cut out. Low varieties of plants (floribunda, hybrid tea, ground cover) can be cut in such a way that the stems rise 10-15 cm from the ground. Climbing roses are bent to the ground using arcs, large hooks, hairpins. It is better to lay branches on spruce branches. For the prevention of diseases, the lashes are sprayed with a solution of copper sulfate in a ratio of 1:20 to water. Now you can add 5-7 cm high moor peat under the trunk and around it. The plants are covered with cellophane on top. In this form, they will stay until mid-late November.

It is important to know at what temperature to cover roses for the winter if their seedlings are brought from warmer regions. For example, standard plants are covered a little earlier, without waiting for severe frosts to come. Approximately at the end of October, when the night temperature reaches +1 ... -1 ° С, they begin to warm. A special cover made of spunbond, high-density lutrasil is put on top of the plant. The cape should be well secured so that it is not blown away by the wind and the plant is warm. To get a better winter, they should be very carefully bent to the ground and also secured with arcs and hairpins.

Capital Roses Shelter

After the frosts have established (approximately at the end of November), a layer of spruce branches is placed on top of the plant, and then covered with tar paper or roofing felt. This will help the roses to winter well and not be affected by rains, thaws, which can lead to their drying out.

Speaking about the temperature at which to cover roses for the winter, it should be summed up that the first light warming of plants is carried out at 0 ... -2 ° C, and in a more global way, they are wrapped up when the temperature overcomes the mark of -5 ° C.

Build a secure shelter or dig it up in a timely manner and move it indoors? What roses don't need to be covered at all? Let's try to answer these questions in our article.

Shelter for the winter climbing roses

The shoots of climbing roses are removed from the supports and carefully bent to the ground, trying not to break (since flowers appear on the shoots of the last year). Next, the lashes are laid on spruce branches and covered with covering material (you can also use spruce branches). The soil around the stem is huddled.

The main condition for the successful wintering of climbing roses is a ventilated air-permeable shelter and its timely removal (in late March - early April, depending on the weather). If roses overwinter in a shelter with poor air access, then they run the risk of blowing out. As a rule, even young plants winter well under a layer of spruce branches, which can be set in the form of a hut around a bush.

Shelter for the winter standard roses

It is easy to bend a young standard rose to the ground and fix it with a "hairpin". At the same time, the crown is laid on spruce branches or river sand... From above it is covered with lutrasil or other non-woven material. At the base, such a rose is earthed up with sand, spruce litter or dry foliage.

Old trunks with a lignified trunk cannot be bent to the ground, so they are sheltered in a different way. You can put a metal mesh frame around the trunk and wrap it with roofing material, leaving a little free space inside. The void is filled with sawdust, spruce litter or dry leaves. A plastic bag is put on the crown and fixed with twine.

Shelter for the winter spray roses

Prepare spray roses for winter after the first frost(usually in October). To do this, it is necessary to remove the soft herbaceous unripe shoots, and later (just before the shelter) carefully cut off the leaves, being careful not to damage the buds. The bushes should be shortened to 40 cm, for the prevention of diseases, treat them with any remedy for fungus and Intavir from pests. Plant residues must be burned.

Do not rush to cover the roses ahead of time, especially if the autumn is long and warm. The first frosts in September-October only harden them.

Hilling already on frozen soil, when the air temperature is -7-10 ° C for several days, a mound with a height of 10-15 cm should be made around the bush.It must be sprinkled on top with dry leaves, straw or peat (depending on what is on the farm). Usually these works fall on the first ten days of November.

V mild winters with frequent thaws, it is enough to cover the soil around the bushes with dry foliage or a layer of spruce branches and lutrasil. In severe frosts, you can additionally install a frame or a wooden box on top. It must be blown through.

Shelter for the winter ground cover roses

Groundcover roses are considered to be the most adaptable to cold weather conditions. In warm regions, they do not need to be covered. Under the snow cover, these plants winter well and do not even shed their foliage.

However, in a harsh and snowless winter, even ground cover roses will not survive, so it is recommended to cover them with spruce branches. It will protect the plants from the cold wind, but at the same time will provide air access to the shoots, which prevents rotting. In the spring, the leaves remaining on the bush should be removed and sanitary pruning should be carried out.

Shelter for the winter floribunda roses

The floribunda should be pruned before sheltering. This should be done in such a way that trunks 25-30 cm high remain above the soil surface. Next, the roses must be covered with sand or peat so that the trunks are completely closed.

What roses can winter without shelter

Roses that winter safely and do not require shelter at the same time are a real dream of a florist. And this dream is not so unrealizable. In parks, these very roses are often planted, which perfectly tolerate winter and bloom every year, while requiring minimal maintenance.

Rose varieties that can successfully winter without shelter in the middle lane are most often hybrids of alba, rugosa, spinosissima roses. You can also add to this list winter hardy varieties American and Canadian selection.

Winter-hardy roses can be divided into 3 groups:

1. Absolutely winter-hardy (withstand frost down to -40 ° C, winter in an upright position);
2. winter-hardy (withstand frost down to -34 ° C, hibernate in an upright position);
3. moderately winter-resistant (withstand frost down to -28 ° C, it is recommended to bend to the ground).

List of varieties according to the degree of winter hardiness

Absolutely winter hardy varieties	Winter hardy varieties	Medium-hardy varieties
Blanc Double de CoubertCharles AlbanelHansa Foetida persiana Sir thomas lipton	Adelaide HoodlessAgnesAlexander MacKenzie Felicite parmentier Fru Dagmar Hastrup Grootendorst supreme Harison "s Yellow Marguerite hilling Martin frobisher Morden cardinette Morden centennial Pink grootendorst Prairie princess White Grootendorst	Captain Samuel HollandChamplainCuthbert Grant Frau Karl Druschki Frühlingsmorgen Lichtkonigin Lucia Reine des Violettes Stanwell Perpetual

Storing roses in the basement

If you do not have time to prepare a winter shelter, you can dig up a rose with a clod of earth and transfer it to a container. In this case, the shoots should be shortened, and the leaves should be cut off. Before planting, such a rose can be stored in the basement at a temperature of 0-2 ° C. Take note that at a temperature of 6-8 ° C, roses are already beginning to germinate.

If necessary, in a dry storage, roses can be watered 2-3 times during the winter. Or you can simply pour snow into the container so that the earthen ball does not dry out. While the roses are at rest, they do not need to be watered, but it is important to remember that they cannot stand even a single strong overdrying.

Do not forget to sign the variety and color of the roses so that when planting in early spring arrange them correctly in the flower garden.

Roses in a container can be taken out early in the spring, cut, composted into the soil and grown in a greenhouse until mid-May.

How to store container roses in winter

Container roses can hibernate in the basement and move back to the garden in the spring. But it is also important that the containers in which they grow have large holes in the bottom for water drainage. It is also worth taking care of good drainage in advance. The plants themselves should be cut off before being sent for wintering: remove leaves and soft shoots.

For planting container roses, choose plastic containers - they are lightweight and easier to move.

For areas with short summers, lack of sun and heat, container roses - perfect option... Roses in a container wake up faster, grow and bloom well, because their roots are not disturbed by the transplant.

Be sure to take care of the roses in advance, without waiting for the frost, then your rose garden will always look great.

Freezing temperatures in late spring or early summer - present disaster for gardeners. Frosts in late summer or early autumn are also not a gift, especially for those who grow late-ripening crops. The weather often does not play by the rules and can easily deprive us of any hope for a harvest.

Which garden crops are most vulnerable to frost? Spring-summer frosts are reflected in strawberries, garlic, seedlings of early-planted vegetables. Summer-autumn frosts attack crops late landing that we plant in the second half of summer: all possible radishes, turnips and cabbage.

In order not to guess and once again not to check whether our crops will withstand such frost or not, they offer you a reference table with the minimum survival temperatures of the most popular garden crops.

We did not include heat-loving crops in this table (tomato, cucumber, pepper, zucchini, eggplant, watermelon, melon, pumpkin, etc.). These plants cannot withstand frost. Yes, if you harden the seeds and seedlings of tomatoes, after a couple of generations they will be able to show miracles of survival, but this is more the exception than the rule.

And the rules are such that pepper seedlings begin to die at a temperature of 0 ° C, cucumber seedlings are unlikely to survive a cold snap to -1 ° C ... -2 ° C. If tomatoes are already firmly rooted in the garden, maybe they will survive after short-term frosts at -1 ° C ... -1.5 ° C, but you won't have to wait for special harvests. Melons and gourds generally do not withstand even short drops in temperature to 0 ° C.

What frosts can the crops of garden crops withstand?

Culture name	Minimum temperature for survival
Radish	Radish shoots can withstand frosts down to -4 ° C. A healthy adult radish plant can withstand frosts down to -6 ° C.
Garlic	Garlic shoots can withstand frosts down to -11 ° C.
Strawberry (strawberry)	Strawberries and strawberries can withstand frosts down to -8 ° C. However, flower buds die at temperatures below -2 ° C.
White cabbage	Seedling white cabbage can survive the temperature drop to -3 ° С ..- 5 ° С. Although the harvests from frozen seedlings will be worse.
Cabbage	Peking cabbage seedlings can withstand short-term frosts down to -2 ° C. But from prolonged exposure low temperatures it goes “into the arrow”. And here adult plant perfectly withstands frosts down to -4 ° С ..- 5 ° С. Frozen and then thawed heads of cabbage do not lose their taste.
Cauliflower	Cauliflower can withstand short-term frosts down to -2 ° C.
Broccoli	Broccoli seedlings can withstand frosts down to -2 ° C. Adult broccoli plants can withstand frosts as low as -7 ° C.
Potato	Potato seedlings can withstand short-term frosts up to -2 ° C. At lower temperatures, seedlings die.
Peas and beans	Seedlings of peas and beans can survive frosts down to -4 ° С ..- 6 ° С. However, after such stress, they will lag behind in development, and their yield will be low.
Perennial bows (chives, batun, slug)	Perennial onions are not afraid of frost, they will survive a drop in temperature to -10 ° C.
Onion	Onion seedlings can withstand frosts down to -1 ° С, adult plants - up to -3 ° С ..- 5 ° С.
Carrot	Seedlings of carrots can withstand short-term frosts down to -3 ° С. Adult plants are not afraid of short-term frosts down to -4 ° С.
Rhubarb	Rhubarb tolerates spring frosts down to -10 ° C, until its buds have blossomed. Young buds withstand frosts in the region of -2 ... -6 ° C.
Daikon	Daikon seedlings can withstand frosts down to -3 ° C, adult plants - up to -5 ° C.
Radish	Radish seedlings are able to withstand frosts down to -2 ° C ..- 3 ° C, and adult plants - up to -4 ..- 5 ° C.
Turnip	Young turnip sprouts can withstand frosts down to -2 ° C ..- 4 ° C. In autumn, ripe root crops can withstand temperatures as low as -6 ° C. Only now, the turnip, which has been frozen, is no longer so tasty.
Root celery	Celery seedlings can withstand frosts down to -2 ° C, and if they are hardened, then up to -4 ° C. Ripe roots are not afraid of autumn frosts down to -3 ° С.
Dill	Withstands frosts down to -5 ° C ..- 7 ° C.
Spinach	Will survive frosts down to -5 ° ..- 7 ° С.
Sorrel	Easily tolerates frosts down to -7 ° C.

In general, dear gardeners, we stock up on film, tarpaulins, old bedspreads, water bottles, cardboard boxes, Epin or others to reduce stress and increase plant immunity, we arrange heaters in greenhouses. Let's try to survive the cold spring!

We wish you success and big harvests!

What sub-zero temperature spring roses

It is not for nothing that our region is included in the zone of risky farming. Among the many risk factors, recurrent spring frosts are very unpleasant. They are dangerous in that they appear not only in spring, but also at the beginning of summer, when the plants are vegetating with might and main and even blooming.

Severe frosts usually cover our entire region at once. But for different areas of the region, return frosts are dangerous in varying degrees... So, in the southern regions the snow melts two weeks earlier than in the northern ones, and the plants begin to vegetate, respectively, earlier. V northern regions the snow lies for a long time and the plants are hidden under it longer. And it turns out that the northerners live easier, because their plants during the frost are still sleeping under the snow. But in the south of the region, young shoots and seedlings will get full program". Therefore, during frosts, you need to try to stay close to your pets in order to have time to protect them in time, otherwise many of them will die.

On my site in the Gatchina region, for many decades, late spring frosts were observed on the night of June 9-10. However, in the last twenty years, after deforestation for gardening in the northeast of the region, icy northern winds began to reach us, and frosts now occur until June 17 and even at the beginning of July. Frost can kill young shoots on covered roses, grapes, podophila, young sprouts of Astilbe, Rogers, Horny Goat Weed. Even tubular lilies and the most valuable host varieties die. These plants must be covered.

More details

How to open roses after winter

Spring has come, every day the sun warms more. Snow is melting. All living things are ready to wake up after their winter sleep. Amateur flower growers eagerly glance at the covered plants, wanting to quickly find out how the roses overwintered. But there is no need to rush. An untimely and incorrect opening can destroy well overwintered plants.

Opening a rose after winter

If in the fall the roses can withstand temperatures of up to minus 12-15 degrees for a short time, then in the spring small frosts of 7-8 degrees can kill the plants. The transition from a wet shelter environment to wind-drying, to low temperatures at night and hot sunlight during the day - all this can have a detrimental effect on plant shoots. Therefore, roses should be opened gradually after winter.

First, you need to dump some of the snow from the area of ​​roses, then trace the direction of movement melt water and make grooves for the water to drain so that the bushes do not flood.

As soon as the ground is exposed, on the surface of the shelter, you need to slightly loosen it to the depth of the thawed layer to give access to air.

It should be loosened very carefully, with a fork and hoe, and not with a shovel, so as not to break the shoots. Loosening should be repeated every 2-3 days, each time penetrating with the tines of the hoe into the newly thawed soil layers and gradually slightly reducing the thickness of the shelter.

It is possible to remove completely shelters from roses only when there is no longer a danger of cold weather returning. Finally open the plants in sunny days in the evening, and in cloudy weather it is possible in the morning. Open bushes are slightly covered with a leaf, spruce branches, matting for several days.

Those roses that have wintered under boxes, frames, require more careful observation in the spring. Usually roofing paper and earth are thrown on such shelters from above, and it often happens that leaves remain under the bush or on the shoots, and in this case fungal diseases can develop.

In the spring, from shelters of this type, they first carefully dump the earth and open the slots on the sides for a day. In the future, the cracks gradually widen and, if there are no strong frosts at night, they are left open overnight.

More details

How to plant roses in spring

As you know, it is advisable to plant roses in the fall, but if you ordered seedlings by mail in the spring, then do not be discouraged. If you use the right technology, then the spring planting will be effective. Very often, the online store of seedlings by mail provides the services of a consultant who will tell you in detail about the features of planting in different time of the year. If we talk about spring, then best time for planting roses is the period from April to May, when the soil is warmed up from ten to fifteen degrees.

The main factor that affects the growth and flowering of a rose is the temperature of the air and soil. These flowers do not tolerate wind and draft, the most optimal air temperature range is from +15 to +22 degrees. The greatest danger is the high level of groundwater. It is advisable to choose a place on the site where there are no direct rays of the sun during the summer day. At noon, the rose should be slightly shaded. The location of the flowers to each other also affects the development - they should not be too close, otherwise care will be difficult and the flowers will be under threat of disease. It is necessary to plant in such a way that it is possible to tie shoots without problems or to cover the bushes for the winter.

The quality of the soil plays an important role. If the soil is fertile, then for planting you need a hole the size of the root plus five to ten centimeters. In new areas, a special mixture is placed on top.

Before planting, seedlings must be properly prepared. For this, all broken and weak branches and damaged roots are removed. Optimal length roots 30-35 centimeters. If the variety is tall, then when planted in spring, their shoots are shortened by 10-15 centimeters, which contributes to early flowering. Soil-cover varieties should not be pruned. In autumn, shoots of all types of roses are slightly shortened.

More details

Planting roses in spring and autumn

Planting roses in spring
It is recommended to plant roses in the middle lane, with a cold climate, in the spring, not earlier than the soil warms up, to about + 10 ° C. In terms of time, this time comes in late April - early May. As a rule, the soil has already warmed up and the danger of strong night spring frosts has passed. Spring planting primarily desirable for standard roses.

Planting roses in autumn

It is preferable to plant roses in the fall, especially in regions with a mild climate. In regions with a cool and cold climate. also recommended autumn planting roses, if grown for cutting, this will provide more early flowering, the first and second cut waves.
Autumn planting in the ground should be carried out from mid-September to mid-October. You should not do this at an earlier date, since the warm weather in the fall is unfavorable for seedlings in that dormant buds can wake up. If the roses are planted later and the weather is cold, then there is a possibility that the seedlings will not have time to root well and may suffer significantly from frost, or even die in winter.

Pruning the seedling before soaking

Choosing a place for planting roses
The growth and flowering of rose bushes is greatly influenced by the thermal regime of the soil and air. Roses for good growth the air temperature is + 15-22 ° С, the presence of clean air and the absence of drafts. Do not plant roses in low-lying areas, especially with high level groundwater.
The best place to plant the queen of a flower garden is a corner of the garden where the bushes will be in partial shade all day, and not in direct sunlight. This is especially important for the hot afternoon time of the day.
It is not worth saving the area for planting, dense planting of roses leads to the development of diseases and problems in care. It is worth considering when planting the rules for caring for roses, as well as the possibility of their shelter for the winter.

Rose care

Rose care

The difficulty of caring for young self-rooted roses is that in the first two years after planting, the root collar and roots of such seedlings should be especially carefully protected from freezing by spilling them with compost, earth or dry leaves.

In the first summer, planted roses do not need feeding, since nutrients the soil is still little used. Only at the end of August, rose seedlings are fed with a solution of potassium salts to prepare them for wintering. The mineral fertilizer "Kemira Osennee" is suitable for these purposes. And if this is not the case, then pour it with infusion wood ash.

Spring.

Roses often suffer not from frost, but from the soaking and damping of the bushes in the spring. Therefore, a very crucial moment in caring for roses is the timely and competent removal of the winter shelter.

Roses are sensitive to spring warming and the beginning of snow melting, therefore, with the arrival of sunny March days, their period of natural rest ends. Although the soil is still frozen, and the roses are in shelter, the buds on their shoots are already beginning to swell. And now it is important to choose the right day when you can start working in the rose garden and gradually remove the winter shelter from the rose bushes.

If the roses are opened too early, severe spring frosts can damage the plants. Late opening will cause the rose bushes to dry out. To prevent this from happening, usually in the second half of March or early April, they remove the snow from the shelters and make branch grooves (this allows melt water to be diverted from the rose bushes).

With an air-dry shelter of roses, as it warms, the ends of the shelters are opened and the bushes are well ventilated. Then the ends are closed, leaving openings at the top for moisture evaporation, drainage humid air and ventilation of rose bushes.

When the weather is warm at the beginning of March and there is little snow, be sure to raise the film at the ends of the shelters. If necessary, open them on both sides. If there is a lot of snow and the plastic wrap of the shelters is covered with snow, you can take your time with this until the end of March.

At the beginning of April, the film is usually removed from the shelters of roses completely. If this is not done on time, then from the heating of the shelters by the sun and from insufficient ventilation it will become very high humidity air inside the shelters. This is fraught with premature opening of the buds and the appearance of diseases in roses, rotting shoots.

A delay in the beginning of airing the bushes after wintering can have a detrimental effect on the roses. In the stale air of shelters, the shoots are quickly affected by snow mold - the fungal infection grows so intensively that the bark of the shoots of roses is often not visible under it. Snow mold strongly weakens plants and contributes to their infection with pathogenic microorganisms. But the main danger of being late in airing is that the juices flowing from frost holes (cracks formed on the shoots) cannot dry out quickly. Spores of pathogenic fungi settle on droplets of juice flowing from frostbites, germinate in cracks and infect shoot tissues. As a result, the roses die from the drying out of the bushes.

Shelter shields are removed from rose bushes not earlier than the complete thawing of the soil under the shields, after the roses have become accustomed to new conditions.

Rose bushes cannot be opened immediately after wintering, even if established good weather... Returning spring frosts, drying wind and hot spring sun are harmful to overwintered rose shoots that did not have time to adapt to changing conditions. Because of this, even successfully overwintered rose shoots can dry out and turn black.

It is advisable to open rose bushes in calm cloudy weather in order to protect the shoots from sunburn. At first, it is better to shade the bushes from the bright sun.

Roses should be unlocked very carefully so as not to damage the bark of the shoots and swollen buds.

If the rose bushes are already fully open after wintering and have begun to grow, but a strong cold snap is coming (in temperate latitudes, late frosts are not uncommon even in early June), then the bushes in the rose garden can be protected from frost by covering them with lutrasil or other covering material.

Pruning of frozen wood is carried out only when the buds start to grow. Premature pruning will cause healthy shoots to dry out and new ones to grow early (may be affected by low temperatures), and delaying pruning will lead to plant depletion. In addition, pruning depends on the group of roses (climbing, hybrid tea, park, floribunda, ground cover).

The formation of bushes of own-rooted roses with a strong cut is stopped at the beginning of July, so as not to cause the appearance of new shoots at the end of summer. Shoots developing at this time do not have time to sufficiently lignify by winter.

Climbing roses need pruning, the main purpose of which is to form a crown, obtain abundant and long flowering, and maintain plants in a healthy state. In addition, pruning helps to achieve a continuous coverage with rose shoots of the object near which the plants are planted.

When pruning, reverse Special attention on the regrowth and development of vegetative shoots, since flowering in many climbing roses occurs on the growth of the last year. Pruning a certain climbing rose is its hallmark.

Whatever purpose you pursue when pruning roses, you must observe a few general rules trimming:

1. You need to work only with a sharpened tool - otherwise, the cut of the rose shoot is crumpled, the wood and bark dry up, turning into a hotbed of infection.

2. The cut should pass obliquely, no higher than 5 mm above the kidney - so that moisture does not get on it. The longer "stump", dying off, becomes a hotbed of infection of the rose. Cutting lower can damage the kidney.

3. The stems of the roses should be shortened to a healthy tissue (the core should be white).

4. All dead, diseased, weak and thin shoots of roses are removed to the base (per ring) and burned.

5. If several stems of roses grow from the bud, they are removed, leaving only one best shoot.

All cultivated roses are shrubs. All of them have an inherent ability to develop young basal (i.e., growing from the root collar) regeneration shoots annually, designed to replace old, depleted shoots. The regeneration shoots provide the roses with abundant flowering and longevity. Simultaneously with the formation of a new shoot, a young taproot appears at its base, which, having penetrated deep into the soil, branches out into numerous roots. This is how the aboveground and underground organs of the rose bush are renewed annually. When the young regeneration shoot is removed, no new roots are formed. If this is done systematically from year to year, then after a short period of time the bush grows old, stops blooming and dies.

There are three kinds spring pruning roses:

- preventive;

- thinning out;

- formative.

Preventive and formative pruning is done in early spring to eliminate fungal diseases and to rejuvenate old climbing rose bushes.

In scrubs (climbing roses, they look more like huge bushes hybrid tea roses) thinning pruning is carried out in the spring, and in the summer - only after the first abundant flowering to brighten an overly thickened bush. To do this, in the summer, remove old shoots (with dying growth) and branches that did not give flowers ("blind" branches). Strong "blind" branches are shortened to a well-developed bud. This pruning allows this rose to bloom continuously. Many shoots are suitable for cutting into bouquets. Shoots older than three years old are difficult to bend before shelter for the winter - such climbing roses are erect and do not need support. Therefore, it is better to partially remove the old shoots of the rose bush in the spring (with a favorable wintering of the remaining shoots) or cut them out in the summer after the first abundant flowering during thinning pruning. You can remove shoots to the base of the bush or to a younger shoot, located as low as possible to the base of the bush. In the fall, it is advisable to leave the maximum number of promising shoots, cutting out too young, unripe and too old shoots that are difficult to bend into the ring. In winter, the remaining shoots are preserved to their full length, cutting off the unripe tops.

Varieties that bloom on 4-6-year-old shoots in early summer and on annual basal shoots in late summer require minimal pruning. In the spring, dead shoots are mainly cut out. Preventive pruning is reduced to cutting (immediately after the main flowering) one or two senescent shoots per young growth. But in the case of the formation of a large number of young basal shoots, the number of cut out old shoots can be increased. If not a single basal shoot is formed from the root collar, then the aging shoot is cut at a height of 30-40 cm from the soil surface - this stimulates the awakening of the buds. After the first main flowering, all the faded ends of the shoots must be cut off, as they form fruits that prevent the growth of young shoots. For the winter, the shoots are kept to their full length, cutting off only the unripe tops.

In vigorous varieties blooming on the shoots of the current year, you can leave the shoots for three years. The bush should have at least 3-4 young annual shoots, at least one biennial and three-year-old shoot. If it were not for our unpredictable capricious winters, then three-year-old shoots could be removed in the fall. But due to frequent prolonged winter thaws and subsequent sudden cold snaps, young shoots are more strongly affected by frost cracks. With a favorable overwintering of annual shoots in the spring, three-year shoots are completely cut out. On biennial shoots, second-order shoots are shortened (up to 25-30 cm). Excess annual shoots are cut out. The remaining annual shoots are shortened to the desired length. In summer, you can cut out three-year-old shoots to a young growth, located as close to the base as possible, leaving at least one three-year shoot for insurance. Shoots of the second order are shortened to a stable thickness, cutting off the faded flowers, since fruits are formed on them, which inhibit the second flowering. In autumn, the faded shoots of the third order are cut to the second order.

Varieties that only bloom once are even easier to form. In the spring, 3-4 annual shoots are left near the bush, shortening them to the desired length. Excess biennial shoots are cut out; on the remaining biennial shoots, shoots of the second order are left, shortening them to 30-40 cm. In the fall, faded second-order shoots are shortened to a shorter length, and excess second-year shoots must be removed.

When the soil is ripe for processing, it is dug up or loosened with garden forks or cultivators to a depth of 20-25 cm. Digging with the turnover of the layer is done if the roses have been affected by fungal diseases and pests wintering in the upper layers of the soil. With a favorable state of plantings, deep loosening is preferred to digging, which inevitably damages the most active roots, which, when short summer may have a negative effect on roses.

After digging or loosening, the topsoil is mulched organic fertilizers- humus, humus or compost (at the rate of 3, 7, 12 kg per 1 sq. M., Respectively). This is necessary to compensate for the loss of land washed away during irrigation and removed during weeding, and to create favorable conditions to create new adventitious roots on lower parts shoots of roses.

Climbing roses requiring a garter to stimulate formation a large number flowers, tied up so that their lashes are located as horizontal as possible or in the form of a spiral (for climbing roses). At vertical arrangement shoots on climbing roses are formed large quantity replacing shoots to the detriment of future flowering: the bushes are lush, but they bloom poorly. While on the tops of the vertical stems of climbing roses, only a few flowering lateral shoots usually form, then on stems formed horizontally, they appear along their entire length, thereby creating a much more attractive appearance.

Roses are fed with microelements no more than twice a season (at the beginning of the growing season in spring and during flowering), adding them with a solution of complete mineral fertilizer or with slurry. In addition to all the chemical elements necessary for roses, the slurry also contains bacteria that mineralize organic compounds inaccessible to plants, converting them into an assimilable form.

Slurry is prepared for feeding roses as follows: the container is filled to 80% with fresh mullein, filled to the brim with water, adding 100 g of wood ash for every 10 liters. The solution is stirred daily for two weeks. Since nitrogen predominates in the slurry, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers must be added to the top dressing.

To feed roses, use the following solutions (10l / sq. M):

The first feeding (in May): water - 9l, mullein 1kg, superphosphate 20-30g, potassium sulfate 15-20g;

The second feeding (in July) - water 9l, mullein 1kg, superphosphate 20-25g, potassium sulfate 25-30g.

When feeding roses, it is better to add slurry to the soil, and apply all mineral fertilizers in the form of foliar dressing on the leaves - this requires doses three times less. Foliar top dressing does not saline the soil (ballast, which is present in mineral fertilizers), soil microorganisms and earthworms are not destroyed. Foliar dressing is applied only in the evening, so that the drops with fertilizer do not dry out on the leaves for as long as possible.

If in the spring the soil in the rose garden was filled with manure, liquid top dressing is limited only with superphosphate and potassium salt in the indicated quantities: the use of slurry in this case will entail a significant deterioration in the frost resistance of roses. Too much deposit nitrogen fertilizers(including manure) leads to a violent growth of young shoots near rose bushes, which do not have time to ripen by autumn - they remain herbaceous, unable to withstand the slightest negative temperatures. Such herbaceous shoots of replacement are removed completely in the fall, to the very base (on the ring), since in winter, even with the most reliable shelter, they will inevitably freeze, and when thawed, they will rot. In this case, tissue death will spread to healthy wood, and the rose may die.

Thus, in the spring, they perform the priority work: they carry out pruning; clean the bushes of last year's plant residues, process them from pests and diseases; they dig or loosen the soil, apply fertilizers and add fresh soil or rotted compost.

Summer It is necessary to monitor the appearance of overgrowth. Roses are grafted crops, so the shoots from the rootstock are cut "on the stump". Otherwise, instead of a rose garden, your flower garden will turn into thickets of rose hips.

When the flowers wither, they are cut off or broken out to the first well-developed leaf. This does not cause violent growth, but it promotes the formation of new peduncles.

The most common rose disease is false powdery mildew when the leaves are covered with a solid white coating of fungal spores. A well-proven method of control is spraying with copper preparations, which must be repeated after 10 days.

Starting from the first half of August, nitrogen application to roses is stopped. The first strengthening root dressing of roses before wintering is done in early August. For this, a nutrient solution is prepared; for 10 liters of water: superphosphate - 25 g, potassium sulfate - 10 g, boric acid - 2.5 g (or borax - 3.5 g). Ten liters of this solution is enough to add a rose garden to the soil on an area of ​​4 sq. m.

Autumn.

Organization of wintering roses is the most important part of caring for these plants. Only with the correct shelter of roses for the winter can one expect a high decorative effect. If not properly covered, roses may die.

As a result of selection, roses have lost the ability to enter a state of organic dormancy before the onset of winter. Therefore, roses meet cold weather with leafy shoots, with buds and flowers.

Frosts interrupt the growing season of roses and put the plants into a state of forced dormancy. However, when the temperature rises (above 0 degrees), the rose bushes immediately come out of a state of dormancy, they resume sap flow. This biological feature of roses also determines the causes of the death of plants during wintering.

At temperatures below -3⁰С, intracellular moisture freezes in the shoots of roses. The formed ice tears the tissues, and deep longitudinal cracks (frost cracks) appear on the shoots, filled with ice crystals.

On the young, not ripe annual shoots roses, the resulting cracks are often quite long. On old, strong shoots, cracks are sometimes so small that they cannot be detected with the naked eye.

In the zone of frostbite, the bark and epidermis of damaged rose shoots no longer protect the internal tissues of the plant from the penetration of pathogens and putrefactive microorganisms. As soon as the temperature rises above 0 ° C, infection of roses becomes very likely.

Damaged plants will not become infected only if the juices flowing from its wound dry quickly and the surface is healed. Therefore, roses must winter dry; there should be enough air in the shelter for the shoots to dry quickly. Temperature fluctuations in the shelter should be kept to a minimum.

A second root dressing of roses is carried out in early September: for 10 liters of superphosphate water - 15 g, potassium sulfate (or potassium monophosphate) - 16 g.

But, instead of root dressing, it is better to make roses foliar feeding solutions with a concentration three times less than indicated.

From the beginning of September, they stop digging and loosening the soil between the rose bushes, and the formation of plants. This is necessary in order not to cause the development of dormant bud shoots.

In late October - early November, depending on the weather, I completely remove the leaves from the shoots of climbing roses, without leaving even insignificant particles of petioles, since during wintering they die off and rot. Then, from the petioles, decay passes to the dormant buds of the shoots, and sometimes it completely rings the shoot (then it dies off above the place affected by the rot).

For sheltering roses, it is best to use an air-dry shelter invented by professor-florist N.I. Kichinov. The essence of this rose hiding method is as follows.

At a positive air temperature, the shoots of roses freed from leaves are bent to the ground (but they should not lie on the ground), and with the help of iron hooks they are fixed in the form of a rope. I make an iron hook from a piece of rather thick wire, stick it into the ground (how many will fit), and its upper part bends around the shoots. If necessary, the rope from the shoots of roses is pulled together in several places with a rope.

Rose shoots are neatly bent at a positive temperature, and not all at the same time - otherwise they will hurt each other with thorns.

Climbing rose varieties with thick, erect shoots must be bent down with extreme caution. First, the shoots are slightly bent to the side opposite to the bend of the shoots at their base. Otherwise, a break occurs at the bend.

For disease-resistant climbing varieties, it is dangerous to touch the shoots with shields, since it is not affected by burns or bark cancer.

It is advisable to bend the rest of the roses and tie in a bundle so that as few shoots as possible touch the walls of the shelter shields (moisture lingers for a long time in the places of contact), which is fraught with infection with the fungal infection most dangerous for roses - bark cancer.

Wooden shields of the shelter are placed over the bent shoots of roses in the form of a gable roof. Fixing pegs are driven into the ground so that the shields do not disperse from the heavy snowfall. The cracks in the shields are permissible.

On top of the shields of the shelter of roses, a whole plastic film of such a size is laid so that it would be enough to cover the ends of the shelter.

The ends of the shelters of roses are left open until the beginning of November (until persistent slight frosts). Frosts down to -6⁰C do not harm roses; they can easily withstand short-term temperature drops down to -12⁰С.

If boxes are used to hide roses, then at the beginning of October they are covered with foil, leaving one side open.

After the soil freezes under the shelter of roses, with a steady cold snap, the ends are clogged and a film is lowered onto them.

When using boxes to hide roses, they are completely covered with foil.

Wet snow and rain should not fall inside the shelter, because moisture is most dangerous for overwintering roses. If there is at least 10 cm of snow on the shelter boards, then the temperature under the shelter, even in the most severe frosts, does not drop below -8⁰С. In frosts, everything inside the shelter (shoots of roses, walls of shields) is covered with a thick layer of frost, the needles of which reach a length of 10 cm. With prolonged thaws, this frost slowly melts and, until it melts, the temperature inside the shelter does not rise above 0⁰C. In this case, conditions for the reproduction of pathogenic fungi are not created under the shelter.

The most successful wintering of rose shoots is possible provided that they are frozen from the moment of shelter until spring.

From November to mid-February, the sun does not warm up the film, so there is no danger of premature growth and damping off of plants.

Under the air-dry shelter on the shoots of roses, frost bark rarely forms. But it will be even more reliable if, before covering the roses with shields, the bushes are covered with dry leaves. But this is not necessary (and sometimes dangerous due to the colonization of rose plantings with mice, if they are not exterminated in the garden).

With very long thaws, it is advisable to slightly open the ends of the shelters in order to avoid drying out of the rose shoots. V warm winters openings are left in shelters for ventilation of plants.

The described shelter of roses with shields is suitable only if the roses grow in rows.

If rose bushes are planted in a composition with other plants, then it is difficult to cover them in this way due to the lack of free space next to the roses. Therefore, in this case, the roses need to be covered for the winter like this:

Make a frame in a shape reminiscent of planting roses. The frame should be
strong enough that sleet cannot bend it. Cover the frame from above only with lutrasil or in combination with plastic wrap undesirable, since lutrasil allows water to pass through, which means that the roses will remain wet and freeze over during a sharp cold snap. And if the lutrasil is also covered with plastic wrap on top, then it is quite possible that the roses will be wiped out in February.

Cover the knocked-down frame with fiberglass. Such shelter practically does not let water through, “breathes”, perfectly reflects the spring sun rays. This is exactly what you need when covering roses for the winter.