How to deal with yellowing of juniper needles. Rust: orange specks on pear leaves and drying juniper needles

Consider the most common juniper diseases in Russia, in addition, we list the main pests of this coniferous plant.

Tracheomycotic wilting, or fusarium, juniper

The causative agents are fungi Fusarium oxysporum Schl. and F. sambucinum Fuck., are soil pathogens that cause rotting of the root system. The roots turn brown, the mycelium penetrates into the vascular system and fills it with its biomass. The access of nutrients ceases, and the affected plants, starting from the upper shoots, wither, the needles turn yellow, turn red and fall off, and the plants themselves gradually dry out. Seedlings and young plants in nurseries are most affected. It is believed that with the age of plants, the fungus passes into the composition of mycorrhiza and does not cause much harm.

Rice. 69. Reddening of the needles and drying out of a young plant

COMBAT MEASURES
Use healthy planting material. Timely culling and burning of all dried plants along with roots, collection of affected plant residues. Compliance with all agrotechnical requirements for the cultivation of this crop. For prophylactic purposes, green cuttings are etched before rooting and young plants with an open root system before planting in a solution of one of the drugs: bactofit, vitaros, maxim. At the first symptoms of wilting and root rot, the soil is shed under the plants with a solution of one of the drugs: phytosporin-M, alirin-B, hamair. In industrial cultivation, preventive and eradicating spraying and soil spilling with a 0.2% solution of foundationol are carried out.

Shute brown juniper
Rice. 70. The beginning of the manifestation of shyute.

Rice. 71. Drying of the bush with a strong spread of brown shute.

The causative agent is the mushroom Herpotrichia juniperi. In spring, the needles turn yellow and become covered with a cobweb mycelium, which is grayish at first, but gradually becomes black-brown, dense, as if gluing the needles. Over time, black globular small fruiting bodies of the wintering stage of the pathogenic fungus are formed in the affected needles. The needles turn brown, dry up and do not crumble for a long time, which
greatly reduces the decorative effect of plants. The infection persists in the affected plant debris and in the affected needles.
COMBAT MEASURES *
Use of healthy planting material, timely pruning of dead branches, preventive spraying of plants in spring and autumn with 1% Bordeaux mixture or its substitutes (ABIGA-PIK, HOM). When the disease manifests itself to a strong degree in the summer, spraying is repeated with one of the same drugs.
Shute juniper
Rice. 72. Yellowing and drying of the needles are the first signs of shute.

Rice. 73. Formation of fruiting bodies on dried needles inside the crown of the plant.
The causative agent is the mushroom Lophodermium juniperinum. The needles of last year's shoots in the spring, in May, turn brown and do not crumble for a long time. Over time, small shiny black fruit bodies are formed on the needles. The infection persists in the affected needles and plant debris.

COMBAT MEASURES
The same as against the brown juniper shute.

Shrinking juniper branches
Rice. 74. Desiccation of lateral branches with the manifestation of the disease.

Rice. 75. Formation of fruiting bodies during the spread of drying out of branches.

Rice. 76. Dying off of the bark and lateral branches.
Several fungi can be the causative agents of branch drying: Cytospora pini Desm., Diplodiajuniperi West., Hendersonia notha Sacc. et Bn, Phoma juniperi (Desm.) Sacc, Phomopsis juniperovora Hahn., Rhabdospora sabinae Sacc. et Fautr. Drying of the bark and the formation on it of numerous small fruiting bodies of brown and black color is observed. The needles turn yellow and fall off, the branches of the bushes dry out. The infection persists in the bark of the affected branches and in unharvested plant debris. The spread of infection is facilitated by thickened planting of plants and the use of contaminated planting material.

COMBAT MEASURES
Compliance with all the requirements of agricultural technology, the use of high-quality planting material. Pruning of affected branches, disinfection of individual wounds and all sections with a 1% solution of copper sulfate and smearing with oil paint on natural drying oil. Collect and burn all pruned diseased branches. Carrying out preventive spraying of plants in spring and autumn with 1% Bordeaux mixture or its substitutes (ABIGA-PIK, HOM). When the disease manifests itself to a strong degree in the summer, spraying is repeated with the same preparations.

Juniper blight
Rice. 77. Browning and drying out of needles and branches affected by alternariosis.

Rice. 78. Browning and dying off of branches of a young plant affected by alternariasis.
The causative agent is the fungus Alternaria tenuis Nees. On the affected brown needles and branches, a velvety bloom of black appears. The needles fall off, the branches of the bushes dry up. The disease manifests itself when the plantings are thickened on the branches of the lower tier. The infection persists in the affected needles and bark of branches and in plant debris under the bushes.

COMBAT MEASURES

Juniper rust
Rice. 79. Juniper branches with strong rust spread.

Rice. 80. The appearance of mucus on a swollen branch of a juniper.

Rice. 81. Formation of mucus on the affected juniper needles.

Rice. 82. Sporulation of rust on the affected branches.

Rice. 83. Browning and drying out of bushes with strong spread of rust.
The causative agents are fungi Gymnosporangium confusum Plown, G. juniperinum Mart., G. sabinae (Dicks.) Wint. Mushrooms are of various households: the main cycle of their development occurs on the juniper, and the intermediate hosts are pome crops (apple, pear, quince, hawthorn, cotoneaster).

Fungal spores germinate on shoots, skeletal branches, needles and cones and form a wintering mycelium. Thickening appears on the affected parts, and the death of individual skeletal branches begins. On the trunks, more often at the root collar, swelling and sagging are formed, on which the bark dries out and shallow wounds open. In early spring, when there is still snow all around, brown outgrowths appear on the branches, trunks, in the cracks of the bark, which swell after the rain and become covered with mucus. Teliospores develop in them, which germinate and form a golden-orange bloom, consisting of basidiospores. They are quickly carried by the wind and re-inoculate pome crops. Over time, the affected branches dry out, the needles turn brown and crumble. The infection persists in the affected juniper bark. On common juniper, mushrooms that cause rust of apple and quince overwinter; on Cossack junipers, tall and red, a mushroom that causes pear rust (G. confusum Plowr.) Overwinters.
COMBAT MEASURES
The same as against drying out of juniper branches.

Biotorella Juniper Cancer
Rice. 84. Shrinkage of branches during the manifestation of biotorella cancer.

Rice. 85. Drying of branches, dying off and cracking of the bark, exposure of a cancerous ulcer in the wood.

Rice. 86. Browning and decay of the wood of the trunk of a juniper affected by biotorella cancer.
The causative agent, the fungus Biatorella diformis, is the conidial stage of the fungus Biatoridina pinastri. With mechanical damage to the branches, over time, pathogenic microorganisms begin to develop in the bark and wood, causing bark necrosis. The fungus spreads in the tissues of the bark, the bark turns brown, dries up, cracks. The wood gradually dies off, and longitudinal ulcers form. Over time, rounded fruiting bodies are formed. The defeat and dying off of the bark leads to the fact that the needles turn yellow and dry out. The infection persists in the bark of the affected branches.
COMBAT MEASURES
Compliance with all the requirements of agricultural technology, the use of high-quality planting material. Pruning of affected branches, disinfection of individual wounds and all sections with a 1% solution of copper sulfate and smearing with oil paint on natural drying oil. Collect and burn all pruned diseased branches. In spring and autumn, preventive spraying of plants with 1% Bordeaux mixture or its substitutes (ABIGA-PIK, HOM) is carried out. When the disease manifests itself to a strong degree in the summer, spraying is repeated with the same preparations.

Juniper bark nectriosis
Rice. 87. Fruit bodies on juniper bark.
The causative agent is the fungus Nectria cucurbitula, the conidial stage of the fungus is Zythia cucurbitula. On the surface of the affected bark, numerous brick-red sporulation pads with a diameter of up to 2 mm are formed; over time, they darken and dry out. The development of the fungus causes the death of the bark and bast of individual branches. The needles turn yellow and fall off, affected branches and whole bushes dry up. The disease is considered cancerous.
The infection persists in the bark of affected branches and plant debris. The spread of infection is facilitated by thickened planting of plants and the use of contaminated planting material.

COMBAT MEASURES
The same as against drying out of juniper branches.

We have listed the main diseases of juniper (with names and in pictures), followed by material about the pests of this ornamental culture.

Angle-winged pine moth
Rice. 88. Butterfly on a juniper branch
Rice. 89. Pupa skin after moth butterfly emerges
Angle-winged pine moth (Semiothisa liturata) is a purple-gray butterfly with a wingspan of 25-33 mm. On the outer edge of the front wings it has a slight notch, for which it received the name Anglewing. The forewings have three, the hindwings have two sinuous lines and a dark spot at the apex, near which there is a yellow-brown stripe. The hindwings are lighter in color, with a dark point near the middle and with a dark transverse band along the outer margin. Yasha from green, red-brown to violet-gray. Caterpillars up to 30 mm long, green, with a red-brown head and dark green longitudinal stripes. The abdominal legs have alternating, short and long, two-tiered hooks. Pupa brown, up to 11 mm long. Pupae overwinter in forest litter or in soil; in spring, from late May to early June, butterflies begin to fly. Caterpillars feed and develop in the second half of summer and autumn and, after finishing feeding, go into the soil, where they pupate, and then hibernate. The moth is widespread and damages pine, spruce, fir, and juniper.
Juniper needles are also damaged by caterpillars of the cypress bovine (Pachypasa opus Drury.), Juniper sawfly (Monoctenus juniperi L), and the caterpillars of the juniper moth (Laspeyresia mariana Zerpu.) And juniper moth.
COMBAT MEASURES
Carrying out preventive spraying of plants annually, in May - June, with one of the drugs: actellik, decis Profi, fufanon. When a large number of pests are identified in the summer, carrying out eradication spraying with one of the same drugs. With severe damage to the branches and their drying out by pests, pruning of dried branches is carried out with the obligatory covering of cuts and cuts with oil paint on natural drying oil.

Juniper Scale
Rice. 90. Shields on a juniper branch
Juniper scutellum Insulaspis juniperi is a small sucking insect, female scutellum is elongated, brown, 2 mm in size. Females hibernate; from mid-May they lay eggs under the scutellum. Fertility of one female is up to 38 eggs. In the middle of the first decade of June, larvae hatch and stick to the needles. The pest feeds on needles and juniper cones,
paris, pine, thuja. With a large number of scale insects, the damaged needles turn brown, dry out and fall off, drying of young shoots and branches is often observed. At the same time, decorativeness is greatly lost, and young plants even die. The pest develops in one generation.
On needles and cones, there are often thuja scale insects - Carulaspis caruelii (Targ.) And European juniper scale insects - C. viscid Schn, and on needles and twigs, the juniper scale insect - Planococcus vovae (Nass.) Can also feed. It is often found on juniper and aphid - Cinara juniperi, which gives 3-4 generations per season. The presence of aphids can be identified by the activity of ants protecting it from other predatory insects.
COMBAT MEASURES

Gall midges
Rice. 91. An adult gall midge insect on a juniper branch.

Rice. 92. Small orange larva emerging from the gall.

Rice. 93. Galls at the base of needles and outlet openings after emergence of fusiform juniper gall midge.
Gall midges are small gnats up to 2.2 mm long, have delicate transparent wings and yellowish-brown legs. The body is narrow, the antennae are filiform, the head is small with faceted eyes. The larvae are fusiform, 3-4 mm long, bright orange in color, live and feed in plant tissues, causing them to grow abnormally (galls). Juniper galls can consist of 2, 3 and 4 whorls of needles. In shape, they are conical, fusiform, pointed or oblong. By the location, shape and composition of the galls, specific pests are determined. Thus, galls from whorls of needles on shoots form Valerie's gall midge (Rhopalomyia valerii Tav.), Fusiform juniper gall midge (Obligotropus panteli Kiefif.), Apical juniper gall midge (Obligotropus. Sp.) And common juniper gall midge L.

COMBAT MEASURES
The same as against the angle-winged pine moth.

Juniper stem pests
Rice. 94. Holes in the bark of the juniper stem.

Rice. 95. Holes in the bark of the lateral branch.
Juniper branches and trunks damage several pests. If there are small round holes on the surface of the bark, and a complex system of grooved passages is visible under the bark, then it can be a juniper bast beetle (Phloeosinus bicolor Brulle.) Or a juniper bast beetle (Ph. Turkestani-cus Sem.). If the passages under the bark do not form a complex system, then perhaps it is a juniper beetle (Anthaxia sepulchralis E), and if there are passages in the bark and in the wood and there is a large larva with pectoral legs, then it is a juniper barbel (Semanotus russicus persicus Sols.).
COMBAT MEASURES
The same as against the angle-winged pine moth. In addition, if holes are found in the bark of trees, injections are carried out with Actellik (without dilution): 1 ampoule / 1 m2 of trunk bark - with drops into each hole.

Ants
Rice. 96. A family of red ants brought into the garden together with planting material
Ants are small insects with a stalked abdomen and a gnawing mouth apparatus. Males and females have two pairs of membranous wings, which disappear after mating; working ants have no wings at all. Many species of ants play the role of orderlies of the forest, as they feed on dead insects, while others - entomophages - eat sawfly larvae. Some species harm agricultural plants and ornamental gardens, including conifers. In gardens, they are constant companions of sucking pests - aphids, suckers, worms, scale insects, whose sweet secretions feed on and whose colonies are protected from being eaten by other predatory insects. Ants climb into bee hives, cars, people's homes, where they start new families, eat sweet and meat products. Ants and even entire families of ants often enter gardens with imported planting material from
volume books. They live in plant roots, stumps, rotting wood, tree hollows.
COMBAT MEASURES
Places where ants accumulate are watered with solutions of actellik, fufanon, in places where there is no plant, they are watered with boiling water, parsley is planted near the hives, the smell of which scares off ants. During the growing season of plants, diazinon-based preparations are introduced into the places of accumulation: thunder, thunder-2, medvetox, ant, anteater.

Snails
Rice. 97. Stone Helitsigon on a juniper branch.

Snails are gastropods with a spirally wound shell. There is a special fold (mantle) on the skin that lines the shell from the inside. Two pairs of long tentacles protrude on the head - the lower ones form the labial tentacles, the upper ones end with eyes. The wide lower part of the body represents the leg with which the molluscs move, leaving a characteristic slimy trail. Females lay eggs in heaps in the ground, hatching larvae are similar to adult mollusks, only smaller. They live in humid shaded places, in thickened plantings, hiding in weeds. They feed on leaves, green shoots, fruits, in years with an abundance of precipitation, they cause significant harm to almost all plants, including conifers. Two generations of the pest develop in a year. There are several dozen species in the gardens, differing in the size and shape of the swirling shell. The largest of them is the grape snail (Helix pomatia), the diameter of which can reach 5 cm. Common amber (Succinea putris L.), stone helicigona (Helicigona lapicida L.), thick ifigena (Iphigeniaventricosa Drap.), Etc. are found more often than others.

COMBAT MEASURES
Collection and destruction of single individuals, drainage of wetlands, removal of weeds, thinning of thickened plantings.

European mole
Rice. 98. Moles - heaps of soil, thrown out of the hole of a mole.

The European mole (Talpa europaea L.) from the mole family belongs to the order of insectivores. Moles live underground and make shallow and deep passages. Surface passages are noticeable as rolling bulges with soil crumbling on the surface, deep ones are found in characteristic heaps of earth thrown out of the hole - moleholes. The mole breeds once a year and gives an average of 5 cubs. Although moles feed on earthworms and insects that live in the soil, with a large number they cause serious harm to plants, since, making their passages in the soil, they damage the roots of plants.
COMBAT MEASURES
To scare off moles, it is recommended to fill the passages with a mixture of kerosene and water (1: 200) or put a rag soaked in kerosene into the hole. Of the repellents, the drug crotomet is used at the rate of 10-14 g per hole. Method of application: make a vertical cut in the burrow between two earth emissions. Place 5-7 g (1-2 tablespoons) of the preparation in both ends of the hole. Close the cutout with a board and cover with earth. After 2-3 days, check for the presence of the drug in the burrow. In the event that the preparation is covered with earth, the hole is cut in another place and the operation is repeated. Processing as needed.

When publishing the article "Diseases of Juniper and Their Treatment", materials from the book were used: Treyvas L. Yu. "Atlas Key. Diseases and pests of coniferous plants ”.

When designing plantings near a country house, landscape designers or gardeners are guided not only by the beauty and originality of cultures, but also by their compatibility. Especially take into account the proximity of rocks, for prevention.

Planting juniper on, they always pay attention to the proximity of its habitat to:, apple tree, hawthorn and mountain ash. The most common, chronic and intractable juniper disease is rust.

What is rust

Its causative agent is basidial mushroom of the genus Gymnosporangium of the class Basidiomycetes.

This mushroom has two different hosts. First, it develops on, and then spreads over to or an apple tree. Common juniper is the host of the rust that occurs on the apple tree, and juniper Cossack and its other forms - on (red or orange)

The main development cycle of these fungi occurs on juniper bushes. Spores of fungi can develop on juniper everywhere: needles, cones,. Germinating in the spring, for the winter they form a "tomb", forming yellowish, gelatinous outgrowths - pustules... In these places, then swelling, thickening, sagging or wounds are formed. And in the spring, the spores germinate and are carried by the wind over a huge distance - up to 50 kilometers!

How can you protect your juniper from rust?

1. When planting crops, be sure to check their compatibility with other plants in case of illness. In the garden, such plants must be separated by tall ones. It is desirable that the one that goes out into the open space (field, steppe) or to the forest (common juniper grows there!), Where the wind will often dominate, also be fenced with high protective stripes. For this, deciduous trees are used that are dense.

2. If, nevertheless, the apple and pear become neighbors of the juniper, then you will have to work hard. It will be necessary to process both juniper and Rosaceae. The first treatment is carried out only in early spring, long before the beginning of flowering. The second - immediately after flowering, and the third and subsequent (if the disease progresses further) - every 2 weeks.

3. If you notice the first signs of illness, then immediately the affected parts of the juniper and burn them. Remove all leaves and plants under the bush and dig up the ground around them. Pruning tools (or secateurs) process alcohol, and cuts - 1% copper vitriol and cover with a simple or varnish-balm. As a preventive measure, even if your bush is not sick, carry out the spring and autumn juniper "Kuproksat".

You can also treat juniper bushes with special preparations. For this, "Saprol" and "Ditan" are suitable. Spraying with them is carried out in turn, with an interval of 7-8 days.

At the same time, do not forget to spray the pear with the apple tree with fungicides. For this, preparations with sulfur or other fungicides are suitable.

Try not to spray the juniper, watering it only to raise it in the leaves and at the root. In rainy weather, you can cover with foil. After all, mushrooms develop only at high humidity.

Such measures can lead to success and your plant will not die. But if this treatment did not help, then you should think about moving the bush to another place or completely destroy it.

4. To make the juniper more resistant to any diseases, in time fertilize it, using microfertilizers and immunostimulants. This will help them to resist rust. And also often inspect the bush so as not to miss the first signs of infection.

5. It often happens that the plant is completely cured, but a little time will pass and everything repeats, although there is no pear or apple tree on your site, near the juniper bush. In such cases, do not hesitate and ask your neighbors where they grow these. Better yet, ask for a visit and take a good look at their garden. If you find such signs in them, and even the trees are not looked after, then the bush will have to be destroyed. After all, your whole garden can perish in this way.

Remember that if the disease (rust) has entered the chronic stage, then it is impossible to cure the juniper, especially when rosaceous trees or shrubs grow nearby. Therefore, it is better to remove one of the crops from the garden, leaving the one that is more dear to you, or transfer it to another, distant place. In this case, the juniper can be cut off completely, leaving the lower living buds on the bush. This way, you will prevent further spread of the disease and save the juniper.

Junipers are popular conifers in landscape design.

The main advantage of these evergreens is their beautiful needles, a variety of shapes and colors, a characteristic aroma, and resistance to unfavorable environmental factors.

But in order to get healthy and well-developed specimens, it is necessary to become familiar with the possible difficulties that may arise when growing them.

Junipers found in our culture are mostly frost-hardy. However, some of them may suffer from spring burns. Such plants often come out of hibernation with "burnt", yellow needles, which crumble over time and reduces decorativeness. This is especially true of Chinese juniper and common juniper.

Sunburn

The reason for this phenomenon is physiological drying out. In February - March, when the intensity of sunlight increases, the crown of the juniper, especially on the southern side, heats up a lot, and active photosynthetic activity begins in it, for which moisture is needed.

Since during this period the roots cannot supply the plant with water due to the frozen ground, the intracellular fluid of the tissues is consumed. As a result of this physiological dryness, the needles begin to die off.

Junipers with vertical crowns suffer the most from physiological drying out, especially the varieties of Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis) - Stricta and Stricta Variegat, and ordinary (Juniperus communis) - Hibernica, Meieri (Meue) and Compressa. However, their horizontal forms, such as Repanda, Prostrata, and other varieties of these species, can also burn.

Solution

To prevent burning, junipers are shaded in February - March with spunbond, lutrasil or other material.
You can also warm up the soil under the plant by spilling it with warm water.
Junipers and heavy snowfalls can cause significant damage. At low air temperatures in winter, juniper branches become brittle and easily break under the weight of snow, so it is recommended to tie vertical junipers for the winter, and shake off the snow from horizontal ones, if possible.

juniper branches in the snow

yellowed needles on the sunny side

Diseases caused by different groups of pathogens cause significant harm to junipers. The following diseases are most common and cause significant harm: rust, trachyomycosis, drying of branches and shute of junipers.

Rust

The causative agent of the disease is basidiomycetes. A very common disease in junipers is the "swelling" of branches and trunks caused by rust fungi. The disease is manifested by the presence of growths of a bright orange color on the branches.

Such a bright color of the mycelium of the fungus is due to the presence of oil droplets in it with a pigment similar to carotene.

The disease can last for several years, while the plant not only loses its decorative appearance, but its branches also dry out, which can lead to death.

This pathogen is characterized by a complex developmental cycle, involving the presence of two hosts. On junipers, there are pathogens that have different additional hosts: Gymnosporangium mali-tremelloides (the second host is an apple tree; social stage), G.

juniperi (second host - mountain ash; social stage); G. amelanchieris (second host of Irga; social stage); G. elavariiforme DC. (second owner - hawthorn; social stage). The most common pathogen is Gymnosporangium sabinae, the second host of which is the pear.

Most often it affects Cossack and Virginian junipers and their varieties.

Most often it affects the Cossack and Virginian junipers and their varieties.

mushroom gymnosporangium sabinae on the trunk

mushroom gymnosporangium sabinae

The pear also suffers greatly from this disease, and it can be detected by the characteristic udder-like growths on the leaves. The development of the disease is as follows. First, a fruit plant, such as a pear, is infected by air.

Orange spots form on its leaves, which in the middle of summer turn into udder-like outgrowths on the underside of the leaf, forming spores. These spores (eciospores) infect junipers in August - September. First, thickenings appear on the branches of the juniper in the places where spores penetrate, which then become covered with wounds.

And two years later, jelly-like orange or brownish outgrowths are already visible in them, basidiospores are formed in them, which are then transferred to the pear, infecting it and causing significant harm to it.

Control measures

When obvious signs of rust disease appear on the branches of juniper, that is, when sporulation organs appear, it no longer amenable to treatment. Sick branches must be cut and destroyed, and the remaining branches must be carefully treated with fungicides.

When pruning, it is imperative to disinfect the pruning shears in alcohol, since the use of non-sterile tools contributes to the spread of the disease. Treatment of diseases caused by rust fungi is primarily preventive in nature.

Sick branches must be cut and destroyed, and the remaining branches must be carefully treated with fungicides.

In the spring, in the foci of the disease, all plants should be prophylactically treated with fungicides several times. Ridomil Gold MC, a combined contact-systemic drug, has proven itself well.

A good therapeutic and prophylactic effect is provided by the drugs Tilt and Skor, Bayleton, Vectra. The consumption rates of fungicides when treating junipers for diseases should be increased at least twice as compared to those indicated in the instructions.

It should not be forgotten that the treatment requires a change of drugs.

Tracheomycosis, or tracheomycotic wilting

Quite widespread among a wide variety of plants and is caused by fungi of the genus Fusarium.

On junipers, especially in wet years and in places with overcompacted soil, where there is stagnant water, a disease caused by the fungus Fusarium oxysporum, which lives in the soil, manifests itself. Infection occurs through the root system.

The roots turn brown, then light grayish spores appear on them. Then the mycelium grows into the vascular system of the branches and trunk, where it clogs the conductive bundles, as a result of which there is a violation of the transfer of nutrients, and the plant dies.

Drying usually occurs starting from the apical shoots, on which the needles acquire a reddish tint. Spreading through the plant, the fungus leads first to the drying out of individual branches, and then the entire plant.

the result of infection with the fungus fusarium oxysporum

Most often, junipers virginsky and medium suffer from tracheomycosis - varieties Pfitzeriana Aurea and Pfitzeriana Gold Star (Juniperus media Pfitzeriana Aurea and Pfitzeriana Gold Star), sometimes Cossack and its varieties.

Control measures

If drying branches are found, they should be removed, and the plant and the soil under them should be carefully treated with fungicides, since the infection can persist for a long time both in the plant and in the soil. Most often, the disease is transmitted with planting material or when plants are planted in infected soil. It should be noted that the soil at the site of the removed dead plant must be disinfected, and it is best to change it, since not all pathogens are easy to destroy.
If the plant is bought in a dubious place, the lump must be disinfected by spilling it with drugs such as Quadris, Maxim or Fitosporin.
For a small plant with an open root system, good disinfection results are obtained by soaking the roots in the Maxim solution for 2-3 hours.

Shrinking juniper branches

The drying out of juniper branches is a serious disease that often leads not only to the loss of decorativeness, but also to the death of the plant. The causative agents of the disease are a number of pathogenic fungi that can only be detected by sowing in pure cultures.

These are Cytospora pini, Diplodia juniperi, Hendersonia notha, Phoma juniperi, Phomopsis juniperovora, Rhabdospora sabinae, Pythium cupressina. Signs of infection appear in the spring, when the needles turn yellow and fall off the plants.

First, small branches begin to dry out, then the affected area increases and can capture the entire plant. Later, numerous small dark-colored fruiting bodies of mushrooms appear between the scales and on the bark. The infection persists in the affected branches, needles, as well as their remnants.

The spread of this infection, like most diseases, is facilitated by planting on heavy soils, poor air permeability of soils and thickened plantings.

shrinking branches of Blue Star juniper

desiccation of juniper Skyrocket

Almost all types and varieties of junipers can be affected by the disease caused by these fungi.

According to observations, the rocky juniper, especially Skyrocket, as well as scaly, suffers significantly from drying out of the branches.

Of these, the Blue Star is especially susceptible to disease, it is sick much more often and more intensely than the close to it Blue Carpet variety, which can also be affected.

Control measures

The small affected branches that appear should be cut out, since the infection persists on the bark and needles of diseased shoots, and the whole plant should be treated with fungicides. But if the affected area is very large, it is better to destroy the plant completely.

Schütte brown

A common disease of juniper, especially common and its varieties. The name of the disease comes from the German word schutten (to crumble), the disease manifests itself in a change in color, dying off and falling of needles.

Signs of the disease appear in early summer, when last year's needles become brown-brown. On these needles, at the end of August, characteristic black, up to 1.5 mm, rounded or ellipsoidal fruiting bodies (apothecia) appear - the sporulation of the pathogen.

The disease develops most intensively in shaded plants growing in humid places, as well as on weakened plants.

brown shute (fruiting bodies)

Control measures. It is imperative to remove fallen diseased needles and cut off dried branches in a timely manner. For prophylaxis, treat with fungicides in the spring, in mid-April, and in the fall, before frost.

Good results in both prevention and treatment were shown by the drug Quadris, which inhibits the germination of spores and affects the germinating hyphae of fungi, as well as the drugs Strobi, Skor, Ridomil Gold MC.

Source: https://www.greenmarket.com.ua/blog/zaschita-rasteniy/mozhzhevelnik/

Juniper disease

It would seem that the juniper is one of the most problem-free conifers in the garden, but it turns out that it also has its own ailments. Sometimes, especially after winter, you can see a branch with brown needles on a juniper. This means that the juniper is sick. The death of branches, yellow or brown needles can be the result of several diseases of the juniper.

Biotorella Juniper Branch Cancer

At biorella cancer on the bark of the affected branch, you can see a deep ulcer, due to which a separate branch of the juniper dries out.

The causative agent of the disease is the pathogenic fungus Biatorella difformis (Fr.) Rehm., The conidial stage of the fungus Biatoridina pinasti Gol. et Sch.

With mechanical damage to the branch or bark of a juniper, pathogenic fungi enter the wound and begin to develop there. Some cause necrosis of the bark, the latter are the causative agents of stem rot.

Once on the damaged area, the fungi spread in the tissues of the bark. The bark begins to turn brown, wither away. A deep ulcer forms on the damaged area, in which the black fruiting bodies of the fungus are formed.

The dying off of the bark on the branch leads to the fact that all the needles on it turn yellow and dry out. Biotorella cancer also affects other conifers.

Biotorella Juniper Cancer Control Measures

Dried juniper branches must be cut to healthy tissue, all wounds and sections must be treated with a solution of copper sulfate, a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture (substitutes - HOM, Abiga-Peak can be used). Affected branches must be destroyed to prevent the spread of the fungus.

For prevention: in case of mechanical damage to the bark or pruning of juniper branches, immediately cover all cuts and wounds with garden pitch. Every spring, after the snow melts, and every autumn, treat the juniper with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture or its substitutes, if necessary, the same treatment is carried out in the summer.

Nectriosis, or necrosis of the bark of juniper branches

This disease is also considered cancerous. The causative agent of the disease is the fungus Nectria cucurbitula (Tode) Fr., the conidial stage of the fungus Zythia cucurbitula Sacc.

With mechanical damage to the bark on the branch of a juniper, brick-red fruit bodies are formed at the site of the lesion, sporulation up to 2 mm in diameter, over time they turn black and dry out. The affected twig turns yellow and gradually dries up. The mycelium remains in the bark of affected branches and plant debris.

Control measures with necrosis of the bark of the branches of juniper are the same as with biotorella cancer.

Shrinking juniper branches

The causative agents of the drying out of the branches are several fungi: Cytospora pini Desm., Diplodia juniperi West., Hendersonia notha Sacc. et Br., Phoma juniperi (Desm.) Sacc., Phomopsis juniperovjra Haahn., Rhabdospora sabinae Sacc. et Fautr.

In case of mechanical damage to the branch, the fungus penetrates into the tissues of the bark. The bark dies off, the needles turn yellow and fall off. At the site of the branch lesion, the formation of black fruiting bodies of the wintering stage of the fungus can be observed. A thickened planting contributes to the spread of the disease.

Control measures with drying out of juniper branches are the same as with biorella crayfish.

Juniper rust

In spring, on the branches and needles of juniper, you can see convex yellow-brown gelatinous rounded formations - sporulation of the rust fungus Gymnosporangium confusum Plowr., Gymnosporangium Juniperinum Mart., Gymnosporangium sabinae (Disks.) Wint.

Juniper branches at the site of rust damage over time thicken, deform and crack.

At the beginning of autumn, the orange pustules darken, the wintering stage of the fungus develops. The rust fungus hibernates not only in the affected juniper bark, but also on other plants and plant debris.

Juniper Rust Control Measures

At the first detection of rusty spots, you must immediately remove the affected juniper needles and treat with fungicide preparations with contact and systemic activity, such as Topaz, Ordan, Folikur, Falcon, Fundazol. All affected plant debris must be destroyed.

As a preventive measure, in early spring and autumn, spraying with a 1% solution of Bordeaux or Burgundy liquid, iron or copper sulfate should be carried out.

In the fall, it is necessary to remove plant debris and fallen leaves in the garden, since pathogens of not only rust, but also other diseases can winter on them.

Shute juniper

Schütte causes browning and drying of juniper needles. The causative agent of the disease is the fungus Lophodermium juniperinum (Fr.) deNot.

In the spring, in the month of May, the needles suddenly turn brown on last year's juniper shoots, but they do not crumble for a long time. A black bloom appears on brown needles - this is the formation of black shiny fruiting bodies of the pathogenic fungus.

At risk are weakened plants, as well as those planted in the shade. Schütte develops very quickly in conditions of high humidity and can lead to the death of a juniper. The harmfulness of juniper shute increases several times with prolonged melting of high snow cover. The infection persists in plant debris.

Control measures with juniper shute are the same as with biotorella crayfish.

Schütte brown

Another name for brown shute is brown coniferous snow mold. Snow mold can also be observed after the snow melts and on other plants such as lawn grass.

In the spring, after being freed from the snow, on the branches of a juniper, you can see yellow or brown needles, entangled in a grayish snow mold - a cobweb mycelium. Over time, the mold becomes black-brown, thickens and, as it were, sticks together the needles.

On the affected needles, small black fruiting bodies of the fungus Herpotrichia nigra Karst are formed. Juniper needles turn brown, dry out, do not crumble for a long time. Thin branches die off. The mycelium is preserved in needles and plant debris.

Brown shute spreads more strongly in conditions of high humidity, with strong plantings thickening. Young and weakened plants are most susceptible to disease.

Control measures with shute brown are the same as with biotorella crayfish.

Juniper blight

Alternaria causes the needles and branches of juniper to dry out. The causative agent of Alternaria is the fungus Alternaria tenuis Nees. On the brown needles and branches affected by Alternaria, a velvety bloom of black color is formed. The needles fall off, the branches become bare, dry up.

Alternaria often manifests itself when plantings are thickened on the branches of the lower tier. The pathogen remains in the needles and bark of juniper branches, plant debris (not only conifers, vegetable crops, for example, cabbage, potatoes, are also affected by Alternaria).

Control measures with juniper alternaria are the same as with biotorella cancer.

Fusarium juniper

Fusarium wilt is caused by the fungi Fusarium oxysporum and Fusarium sambucinum. The fungus, through mechanical damage on the bark, penetrates into the vascular system of the plant, clogs it, causing the death of juniper roots.

The access of nutrients to the aerial part of the plant stops. The needles, starting from the upper branches, turn yellow, turn red and fall off, the plants gradually dry out completely.

On the affected areas of juniper, especially on the roots and root part, in conditions of high humidity, you can see a grayish-white sporulation of the fungus.

Young and weakened plants are most susceptible to fusarium wilt. Fusarium remains in plant debris. Infection can also occur through planting material or infected soil. Heavy clay soil, insufficient lighting, low-lying areas with stagnant melt and waste water, a high level of groundwater occurrence also provoke the development of fusarium.

Control measures with fusarium wilt of a juniper: adherence to agricultural techniques, the basic requirements for planting a juniper.

At the first symptoms of wilting and root rot of a juniper, the soil under the plant is spilled with a solution of a fungicide preparation: Fitosporin-reanimator, Fitosporin M, Fundazol, Alirin-B, copper sulfate, copper oxychloride, 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture.

For prophylaxis, in spring and autumn, spraying with copper sulfate or a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture is carried out. At the first signs of fusarium or tracheomycosis, all dried plants, along with roots, must be removed from the site with the complete destruction of all plant debris.

Before planting new plants with an open root system, their roots are treated in a solution of the fungicide Fundazol, Maxim, Fitosporin, etc. Seedlings with a closed root system are spilled with a solution of the same fungicides after planting.

Sometimes, in the spring, the juniper stands with red needles, especially on the south side. This is not an infection, but sunburn.

In winter, in January-February, when sunny days come, from dazzling white snow, sun, severe frost, the needles quickly lose moisture, and there is no way to replenish it - the root system is in frozen ground. To avoid this, you need to prepare conifers for winter in the fall.

Cover the root system in a timely manner with a thick layer of dry foliage, humus, sand, this will warm the root system and help the juniper cope with dry frost. Also, in the fall, the juniper needs to be wrapped in burlap or agrospan to shade the crown from the bright winter sun.

Juniper has a lot of diseases, and sometimes they can only be dealt with in the laboratory of the Quarantine Service.

But we can reduce the risk of developing juniper diseases by the simplest measures: avoid thickened plantings, provide good ventilation for already growing plants, do not plant junipers in strong shade, in low-lying areas with stagnant water.

When pruning branches, always use a garden pitch in order to prevent the mycelium from entering a fresh cut, to fight pests - carriers of infection in time.

Every spring and autumn, it is recommended to carry out preventive spraying with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture or copper sulfate not only for conifers, but also for all plants in the garden: fruit trees and shrubs, grapes, roses, hydrangeas and other perennial ornamental plants. It must always be remembered that pathogens can persist not only on junipers, but also on other plants, even weeds. Therefore, it is recommended to remove all plant residues from the beds and flower beds in autumn and spring.

Image source: cd.intelico.info, nhm2.uio.no, taxondiversity.fieldofscience.com, ascofrance.fr, uconnladybug.wordpress.com, forum.biodiv.petnica.rs, http://www.invasive.org, wiki .bugwood.org, flowerf.ru, dendromir.ru, www.green-soul.ru, flickr.com: Doug Waylett, Sheran, J Brew, Alan Cressler

Source: http://FloweryVale.ru/garden-plants/disease-juniper.html

Reproduction of juniper by cuttings in the fall: methods, diseases and pests

Reproduction of juniper by cuttings in autumn is quite possible and to some extent, even better than in the generally accepted terms - late spring, early summer. It often happens that in May-June a hot, dry period sets in, the survival rate of cuttings will be much worse than on fine autumn days.

Methods and subtleties of reproduction

Varietal junipers are best propagated by cuttings, since with the seed method, the maternal qualities are often not repeated (for example, like in thuja).

Reproduction by cuttings of a juniper in autumn does not differ from spring and summer. For cuttings, semi-lignified shoots are cut with a length of about 10-15 cm.

It is desirable to take them from young plants from the middle and upper parts of the crown, from the growth of the current year.

For the emergence of roots in the planting material, the age of the mother plant is important. The younger, the greater the percentage of rooting. It is better not to cut the cuttings, but to break them.

Separate them from the uterine bush so that a piece of bark remains (the so-called heel). The ends of the cuttings are cleaned of needles and immersed in a weak solution of manganese for 20 minutes. You can also treat it with root. Then the planting material is buried into the ground by no more than 7 cm. The soil must be loose and permeable.

To retain moisture, cuttings are best planted in a greenhouse or covered with a bottle. I like to plant under a bottle in secluded corners of the garden - it's convenient.

It is not particularly necessary to monitor the moisture in the autumn period, because there is no longer any heat, and the soil will not dry out much.

This year, the cutting, of course, will not take root, it will only grow overgrown with callus, but next year it will grow the root system much earlier. What a juniper rooted from a cuttings looks like can be seen in the photo.

There is another way to propagate a juniper by cuttings - at home. But this is if your window sills are not occupied with indoor flowers.

The principle of reproduction is the same, but it is necessary to plant it in prepared containers. To preserve moisture, the pots are placed in dense, transparent, plastic bags, without covering the upper part, in order to avoid rotting of the cuttings. On average, the rooting process at home takes 1.5 months.

What types of juniper are, photos and names can be found here.

What should be the planting material, how to properly plant and grow a plant

In general, all junipers are unpretentious, frost-hardy and in most cases do not impose special requirements on the soil.

When planting seedlings, it is imperative to do drainage at the bottom of the pit, compact the soil well and do not forget about watering until the plants take root.

All conifers are good for sprinkling during dry periods (for example, as an ornamental spruce).

It is necessary to plant the plant carefully so as not to disturb the root ball. If you have to buy planting material, it is better that it be with a closed root system.

You can transplant at any time. But when purchasing juniper in a container, it is important to pay attention to the root system and the state of the substrate.

If the substrate is loose and the roots do not protrude from the holes of the container, then the plant has recently been transplanted and there is no guarantee that it will take root well.

When wondering where to buy a juniper, you should give preference to specialized stores or garden centers. Read how not to be deceived at the flower fair in our article.

Like all coniferous plants, they need feeding. Unlike deciduous trees, they do not need a lot of fertilizer, because they do not shed their foliage for the winter and it does not take much effort in the spring to build up green mass.

You can feed with special balanced fertilizers for conifers that are sold in stores. If there is no special fertilizer, you can apply a nitroammophoska. It is better to do this in spring, before the beginning of the growing season.

Dangerous diseases and pests, their signs and effective control methods

In order for the plant to look healthy and well developed, it is necessary to take care not only of feeding.

Unfortunately, junipers suffer from diseases and pests. Rust is considered one of the most common diseases. The causative agent is rust fungi.

The first signs of the disease- swelling of some parts of the branches and the presence of orange growths on them.

The affected plant loses its decorative effect, dries up and can completely die.

Control measures- treatment with fungicides: Fundazol, Ridomil Gold.

A disease such as trachyomycosis is also widespread. It manifests itself most often in wet weather in places with heavy soil and stagnant moisture.

Signs of the disease- reddening of the apical shoots with further spread throughout the plant. The root system affected by trachymycosis is the cause of wilting.

As a result, the roots of the infected plant turn brown, and the disease spreads to the vascular system of the trunk and branches.

If a disease is detected, the affected parts must be removed and burned, and the plant and the soil around it must be treated with the following drugs: Maxim, Fundazol, Quadris.

Also, almost all types of junipers are susceptible to a very serious disease - drying out of branches.

Symptoms of the disease appear in the spring. First, the needles turn yellow and fall off, then small twigs dry out, spreading throughout the plant.

Control measures- removal of infected areas and treatment with drugs: Skor, Ridomil Gold MC, Tilt.

In addition to diseases, the following pests can damage the juniper:

spider mite;
juniper moth;
the caterpillar of the cypress fat body;
juniper sawfly.

The first signs of pest damage- browning, drying out and falling off the needles.

Pest control measures- processing with aktelik, decis, aktar. In case of severe damage, dried branches are cut off and burned, and the cuts are covered with oil paint.

You can read about the beneficial properties and uses of juniper in the previous article.

The benefits of juniper are undeniable, its berries are a storehouse of useful substances, but you must use it carefully. Uncontrolled intake of decoctions and tinctures of juniper fruits can bring harm, not benefit.

Juniper is an evergreen plant that belongs to the Cypress family. Another name for it is veres. Most varieties are winter-hardy, tolerate drought calmly and are undemanding to soils. However, the juniper is not an unpretentious plant: due to its characteristics, it is quite capricious, it requires special care and growing conditions. One of the reasons for the yellowing of the needles after winter may be improper care. Periodic inspection, preventive measures, loosening of the earth and shelter from the scalding spring sun will help to avoid problems.

Show all

Causes of yellowing of needles

The reasons for the drying out of the needles of heather can be:

physiological factors (spring sunburn);
sucking and needle-gnawing pests;
illness.

Despite its winter hardiness, the plant suffers from spring burns, so by the spring it looks painful and has "burnt" needles, which subsequently crumble. At the same time, the decorativeness of the bush decreases. The varieties of common and Chinese juniper are especially often susceptible to this phenomenon.

In most regions, the intensity of solar activity increases from February to March. Photosynthesis begins in the needles (especially on the southern side). In this case, the plant needs a certain amount of moisture, but during this period the frozen soil is not yet ready to provide plants with it in sufficient quantities. Intracellular fluid is involved in the process of photosynthesis; as a result, the needles dry out and turn yellow. This phenomenon is called physiological dryness.

There are two ways to solve the problem:

1. Shading the plant in February-March with burlap or other covering material.
2. Warming up the soil by spilling it with warm water.

Shelter for the winter of conifers

The juniper suffers from the weight of the snow cover. In frosty times, under the weight of snow, the branches become brittle, which subsequently also causes dryness of the needles. To avoid yellowing, it is necessary to tie vertical varieties for the winter, and periodically shake off the snow from horizontal ones.

It is not recommended to use materials such as lutrasil, agrotherm or spunbond to shelter conifers for the winter. They let in the sun's rays and accumulate moisture, which leads to yellowing of the needles due to frost and sunburn.

Pests and methods of control

Juniper is able to repel insects thanks to the phytoncides with which it saturates the air. However, young shoots and cones of the plant suffer from the invasion of pests. The following pests are dangerous for heather:

sucking (juniper aphid, spruce spider mite, rounded shields, galls);
pine needles (juniper sawfly, pine moth, shoot moth caterpillars).

In addition, pests always choose diseased and weakened plants. Therefore, it is important to take proper care and fertilize on time.

Control measures are presented in the table:

Pest	What harm does	How to fight
Juniper aphid	The growth of young plants slows down and leaves dry out: they turn yellow and begin to curl, as aphids suck out the juice	The spread of aphids is facilitated by ants that "graze" aphids. But dTo protect the plant, ants should be kept out of the spread. To combat aphids, you must: 1. Wash the branches with soapy or cold water. If soapy water is used, cover the root zone soil. 2. Cut off shoots with pest colonies. 3. The procedure for washing the branches is repeated after 6-10 days.
Spider mite	The needles turn yellow, brown spots and thin cobwebs appear on it. Then the needles darken and crumble	For prophylaxis, optimal humidity is required. The juniper should be periodically sprayed with water to maintain its level. If a cobweb appears on the branches, treatment with colloidal sulfur or infusions of garlic and dandelion should be applied
Shield	The needles turn yellow and crumble in early summer. The bark dies off, the shoots dry out and bend, the number of annual growths decreases	In early spring, place cuff-shaped larva traps on the juniper stalk, to which caterpillar glue should be applied. Cuffs can be made from straw, burlap, and cardboard packaging. If the larvae do penetrate the branches, you need to carefully clean them off with a knife or toothbrush. In cases where there are a large number of insects, insecticides will need to be applied
Gall midges	The bark cracks and the needles turn yellow, as the larvae are able to eat heather	1. Cut and burn branches with galls. 2. Treat with insecticides
Juniper sawfly	Needles and shoots are damaged, as larvae (caterpillars) eat out internal tissues	Sawfly larvae live in the soil. To combat its spread, you need: 1. Periodically dig up the trunks and destroy the pest nesting sites. 2. Spray the plant with karbofos or infusion of plants with insecticidal action
Pine moth	The bush loses its strength and splendor, as sawflies, known for their gluttony, feed on needles and young shoots	The appearance of purple butterflies over juniper bushes requires immediate control measures. If nothing is done, then soon caterpillars with a dark red head will appear on the branches of the plant. In autumn, they go into the soil. To combat the moth you need: 1. Dig up the trunk circles. 2. In early spring and when young shoots appear, spray the plants with enteric insecticides
Shoot moth caterpillars	Juniper grows poorly, leaves turn yellow, as caterpillars eat away young shoots	1. Collect and destroy spider nests. 2. Treat the shrub with oil-based insecticides

Diseases and Treatment

A change in the color of needles is noted when the heather is affected by various diseases. Juniper yellowing and leaf drying is observed with the following diseases:

shute;
rust;

Schütte

Schütte disease

The name of the disease comes from the German word "schutten" - "to crumble". The causative agent is a fungus. The first sign of the disease is yellowing of the needles, which is replaced by dying off and falling off. At the beginning of summer, characteristic black rounded spores appear on the leaves. In advanced cases, the needles become yellow-brown. Schütte disease affects weakened plants growing on soils with high humidity.

The affected needles must be removed and burned. Fungicides are used to combat the disease. For prevention, spraying is carried out in spring and autumn.

Rust

Juniper rust

Rust is another common fungal infection in juniper. It is caused by basidiomycetes. Bright yellow growths appear on the needles. The disease is noticeable only in the second year of the reproduction of pathogenic fungi. The spores of the pathogen spread with the help of the wind: they fall on the foliage of apple, mountain ash, hawthorn and pear, and barely noticeable tubercles form on the leaves. After ripening, the spores spill out and fall on conifers.

For effective treatment, you will need to remove one of the affected neighboring trees. Diseased branches of heather should be cut off, and the plant should be treated with immunostimulants. For the prevention of rust, it is not recommended to plant junipers near deciduous plants (apple, pear, mountain ash, etc.).

drying out of branches affected by the fungus

In addition, fungal diseases, which are activated in spring, often become the cause of the drying out of juniper branches. The characteristic signs of the disease are yellowing of the needles, shedding and the appearance of small dark spores on the bark after winter. The fight against the disease consists in cutting off the affected branches and part of the bark. Places of cuts are treated with copper sulfate, the plant is sprayed with fungicides. For prevention, spraying can be carried out in early spring and autumn.

This composition effectively fights against fungal diseases: 1 ampoule of epin and zircon per 5 liters of water. Plants can be sprayed with this product at intervals of several days.

Cancer diseases

Nectric or biorellic cancer can kill the plant. The causative agent is fungi that are introduced into the bark of a juniper. Signs of cancer:

Biorella: cracking of the bark and a change in its color, then - the formation of longitudinal ulcers and the death of the bark.
Nectric: the appearance of brick-red pads up to 2 mm in diameter on the trunk, which subsequently darken and dry out.

Biotorella cancer

Nectrium cancer

With cancer, foliage dries up and dies. The cause of nectria cancer is thickened plantings, and biotorella cancer is mechanical damage to the branches. If the disease has affected more than half of the plant, then it will have to be destroyed, and the place must be disinfected.

Treatment of cancerous lesions consists in removing the affected areas and treating them with Vector, Skor or Tilt. For prevention, it should be sprayed twice a year with Bordeaux liquid or phytosporin.

Planting and grooming errors

The reason for the yellowing of the needles can be not only pathogenic lesions and pests, but also violations of the rules of planting and care. The most common mistake gardeners make is choosing the wrong planting site and soil. Juniper prefers partial shade, you should not choose sunny places for it.

It happens that the juniper turns yellow due to drying out of the roots. To avoid this, a so-called drainage can be built in the planting pit: put several stones on the bottom and fill it with a peat mixture with sand and clay.

If the heather turns yellow due to the high moisture content in the soil, the plant must be transplanted to another place, having previously treated the healthy roots with Kornevin. Rotten root areas should be removed. Drying and excessive moisture of the roots should not be allowed.

Show all

Causes of yellowing of needles

The reasons for the drying out of the needles of heather can be:

physiological factors (spring sunburn);
sucking and needle-gnawing pests;
illness.

There are two ways to solve the problem:

1. Shading the plant in February-March with burlap or other covering material.
2. Warming up the soil by spilling it with warm water.

Shelter for the winter of conifers

It is not recommended to use materials such as lutrasil, agrotherm or spunbond to shelter conifers for the winter. They let in the sun's rays and accumulate moisture, which leads to yellowing of the needles due to frost and sunburn.

Pests and methods of control

sucking (juniper aphid, spruce spider mite, rounded shields, galls);
pine needles (juniper sawfly, pine moth, shoot moth caterpillars).

In addition, pests always choose diseased and weakened plants. Therefore, it is important to take proper care and fertilize on time.

Control measures are presented in the table:

Pest	What harm does	How to fight
Juniper aphid	The growth of young plants slows down and leaves dry out: they turn yellow and begin to curl, as aphids suck out the juice	The spread of aphids is facilitated by ants that "graze" aphids. But dTo protect the plant, ants should be kept out of the spread. To combat aphids, you must: 1. Wash the branches with soapy or cold water. If soapy water is used, cover the root zone soil. 2. Cut off shoots with pest colonies. 3. The procedure for washing the branches is repeated after 6-10 days.
Spider mite	The needles turn yellow, brown spots and thin cobwebs appear on it. Then the needles darken and crumble	For prophylaxis, optimal humidity is required. The juniper should be periodically sprayed with water to maintain its level. If a cobweb appears on the branches, treatment with colloidal sulfur or infusions of garlic and dandelion should be applied
Shield	The needles turn yellow and crumble in early summer. The bark dies off, the shoots dry out and bend, the number of annual growths decreases	In early spring, place cuff-shaped larva traps on the juniper stalk, to which caterpillar glue should be applied. Cuffs can be made from straw, burlap, and cardboard packaging. If the larvae do penetrate the branches, you need to carefully clean them off with a knife or toothbrush. In cases where there are a large number of insects, insecticides will need to be applied
Gall midges	The bark cracks and the needles turn yellow, as the larvae are able to eat heather	1. Cut and burn branches with galls. 2. Treat with insecticides
Juniper sawfly	Needles and shoots are damaged, as larvae (caterpillars) eat out internal tissues	Sawfly larvae live in the soil. To combat its spread, you need: 1. Periodically dig up the trunks and destroy the pest nesting sites. 2. Spray the plant with karbofos or infusion of plants with insecticidal action
Pine moth	The bush loses its strength and splendor, as sawflies, known for their gluttony, feed on needles and young shoots	The appearance of purple butterflies over juniper bushes requires immediate control measures. If nothing is done, then soon caterpillars with a dark red head will appear on the branches of the plant. In autumn, they go into the soil. To combat the moth you need: 1. Dig up the trunk circles. 2. In early spring and when young shoots appear, spray the plants with enteric insecticides
Shoot moth caterpillars	Juniper grows poorly, leaves turn yellow, as caterpillars eat away young shoots	1. Collect and destroy spider nests. 2. Treat the shrub with oil-based insecticides

Diseases and Treatment

A change in the color of needles is noted when the heather is affected by various diseases. Juniper yellowing and leaf drying is observed with the following diseases:

shute;
rust;

Schütte

Schütte disease

The affected needles must be removed and burned. Fungicides are used to combat the disease. For prevention, spraying is carried out in spring and autumn.

Rust

Juniper rust

For effective treatment, you will need to remove one of the affected neighboring trees. Diseased branches of heather should be cut off, and the plant should be treated with immunostimulants. For the prevention of rust, it is not recommended to plant junipers near deciduous plants (apple, pear, mountain ash, etc.).

drying out of branches affected by the fungus

This composition effectively fights against fungal diseases: 1 ampoule of epin and zircon per 5 liters of water. Plants can be sprayed with this product at intervals of several days.

Cancer diseases

Nectric or biorellic cancer can kill the plant. The causative agent is fungi that are introduced into the bark of a juniper. Signs of cancer:

Biorella: cracking of the bark and a change in its color, then - the formation of longitudinal ulcers and the death of the bark.
Nectric: the appearance of brick-red pads up to 2 mm in diameter on the trunk, which subsequently darken and dry out.

Biotorella cancer

Nectrium cancer

Planting and grooming errors

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