In some areas, the garage appears before the house. You can spend the night in a tent yourself, and put your car under the roof. Therefore, the question of how to build a garage with your own hands is not idle. We start with choosing a location.
Selecting a location
Choosing a location for a garage is not an easy task. I really want it to be convenient to use, but at the same time so that the construction does not spoil appearance plot. You immediately need to decide whether it will be free-standing or attached to a house or other building on the site.
- Standing separately. This option is chosen if the house has already been built and/or the shape of the plot is such that the driveways take up too much space. In this case, it makes sense to move the building closer to the entrance gate, or make sure that the garage door opens directly to the street.
- Forming part of a building. This can be a house or a utility block, and the garage itself can be built along with the building, or added later. It is good if the house is built close to the border of the plot. It is attractive because there is no need to think about how to heat it and install additional communications.
When building it yourself, the garage is most often placed separately, since an extension to an existing house requires serious measures to strengthen the foundation, and this is definitely not cheap. It will be cheaper to build separately. Only when choosing a location, you need to keep in mind that the distance to the neighbor’s plot should be at least 1 m, and the entrance should be at least 10 meters from the neighbor’s windows. The distance to the nearest residential building is also standardized. It should be more than 9 meters if the house is made of non-combustible material and 15 meters if the house is fire hazardous.
The gate opens directly onto the street - one of the good options
Dimensions and designs
First you need to decide for what purposes the garage will be used. If this is only a parking place, the dimensions can be made back to back - add a meter in length and width to the dimensions of the car. This is enough for a parking space. If repair work will also be carried out in the garage, a lift or inspection hole, a bunch of equipment and spare parts will be needed, then the dimensions should be larger. It is advisable to leave at least a meter on the sides and the same amount in front. Half a meter is still enough at the back. If the garage is used as a workshop or as a club, the dimensions can be even larger. The only limitations are the available space and the construction budget.
With or without pit
The most important thing is to decide whether you will make a hole or not. How and what kind of foundation you will make depends on this. You can make a basement under the garage, and the hole will be the “entrance” or only part of the occupied space. The option is attractive, but expensive and requires large volumes of excavation work.
The second option is more economical: only a hole 1.8-2 meters deep and about 1 meter wide. The width is optimal, but the height depends on height and it is better to choose this parameter individually: the depth should be 15-20 cm greater than your height. The length of the pit is about 2 m. This is enough to inspect any passenger car.
It is even easier to implement a floor in a garage without a pit. Then it just fills in without any complications.
Garage foundation
The foundation for a garage without a pit can be anything, be it strip or pile-grillage. Another issue is that you will still have to fill the floor. And if so, then it’s easier to make a monolithic reinforced slab right away and not make the foundation first and then the floor.
Tape - monolithic and prefabricated
Pile or pile-grillage
An economical foundation, which for some reason is rarely used for garages. Pile in its pure form is not very suitable for a garage - the floor turns out to be raised above the ground, but if you make a drive in, you can use it. He and the pile-grillage with a low grillage - great option for heaving soils (clay, loams with high level groundwater).
The pile is connected to the grillage - this is a pile-grillage foundation
When making a pile-grillage, a shallow foundation pit is dug around the perimeter in the form of a ribbon (about 40-50 cm deep). In it, wells are drilled in increments of 1.5-2 meters below the freezing depth of the soil, and formwork (a plastic pipe or rolled roofing material) is inserted into them. Three or four reinforcement bars with an outlet of 70 cm are placed inside the formwork and filled with concrete. Then they place the formwork on the tape and knit a reinforcement frame for the tape, connecting it with the outlets of the pile reinforcement. And it is also filled with concrete.
Monolithic slab
Suitable for any type of soil. Along the perimeter it is made larger than the size of the garage by at least 30 cm. The soil is removed by digging a pit 40-45 cm deep. The bottom is leveled and a layer of gravel is poured. Its thickness is about 20-25 cm. The gravel is compacted well, using a vibrating plate if possible.
Formwork is placed around the perimeter, reinforcement is placed on the compacted bedding in increments of 15-20 cm (lengthwise and crosswise, creating a cage). They usually use 10-14 mm in diameter, two tiers of reinforcement, the distance between which is about 20 cm. All this is filled with concrete grade M 250 - M 300.
What to make walls from
Most often, the walls in the garage are made of building blocks. This can be (foam block and gas block), or maybe with a filler made of slag or expanded clay. They are good because they themselves are warm and there are no problems with subsequent heating of the garage: a small stove is enough to heat the air to normal temperatures. True, with such a choice, exterior finishing is necessary. As a rule, it is made the same as on the house or as similar as possible.
Second popular technology construction of garage walls - frame. The frame is made of metal profile pipe or impregnated with fire retardants (flammability-reducing additives) wooden beam. The covering can be any - from sheet metal to siding (on metal), lining, imitation timber, plywood (moisture resistant) or OSB. Yes, some materials are flammable and cannot be called reliable, but if necessary cheap garage, for example, for a summer residence, and only as a temporary parking lot, then why not.
Gates
Garage gates can be swing, sliding, or lifting. Swing ones are the simplest and most familiar to everyone. If desired, they can be automated (as read).
Heating and insulation of the garage
If you plan to use a garage all year round, it is necessary either to immediately make the walls warm (from blocks with low thermal conductivity) or to insulate those built using frame technology. Materials for insulation are standard: mineral wool, polystyrene (extruded or regular foam). There is also an option for non-flammable insulation, which in the case of a garage is simply an excellent option - low-density foam concrete. It can be laid between the frame posts. Non-flammable, inexpensive, holds heat well. The only bad thing is that you can’t hang anything on it, but there are frame posts, so you can mount them on them.
There are two types of heating in the garage: constant and periodic. Constant can be separate or part of the heating of the house. If you do it separately, it’s the same house system, only in a smaller volume. It turns out expensive and complicated: a separate boiler, which also needs to be maintained and monitored.
One of the options for organizing heating in the garage is to pull a branch from the house. But this is also not easy: a pipeline that requires good insulation, a large amount of earthwork to lay it, and preferably not just into the ground, but into the sewer.
Periodic heating - stoves such as potbelly stoves and their modifications. They can be heated with wood or any flammable rubbish, of which there is usually plenty available. But the most attractive idea is to make a stove during mining - there is plenty of fuel around, and for free (or almost). There are different designs, they are described in the article ““.
This type of heating is the easiest to organize: install a stove and a fireplace, but there is less comfort. Firstly, the heat is mostly near the stove, and secondly, you come into a cold garage and heat it until it starts to warm up...
Drawings and diagrams
Photo reports from construction
Often the point technological processes It’s difficult to understand from a verbal description, but drawings or photos help put everything in place. More questions arise about frame garages. They are the cheapest and can be built quickly. Below are some examples.
Wooden frame garage
The garage was built 4*6.5 m, with a gazebo 4*2 m. The lumber was delivered ahead of time, soaked in antiseptic and stacked in ventilated piles to dry.
The foundation is made of columnar. Using a hand drill, holes were made with a depth of 150 cm and a diameter of 35 cm. Ruberoid sleeves were placed in them, three rods of plastic reinforcement were inserted, and filled with concrete.
Two weeks later, when the concrete was almost ready, they began to install the walls. The bottom trim was assembled first. 150*100 mm timber was used. The harness was installed on three sides, the fourth remained open - there will be an entrance.
The problem was the connection with plastic fittings. Not a particularly good idea: they drilled holes for it, but it’s not clear how to attach it further. We fixed the anchors into concrete (two per post), and filled the holes with reinforcement with epoxy. It is not clear whether they will help or not, but we hope they will at least somehow keep it going.
Next, racks were placed above each column (1.5 meter increments). They must be placed straight up, without deviations, otherwise the structure will be unstable and bursting loads will appear. We started from the corners. They put one out, fixed it with temporary jibs, then nailed it down and moved on to the next one. The rest were leveled according to the set angles, not forgetting to check the verticality (with a plumb line, since the level gives an error). They were fastened with nails and reinforced with metal mounting plates.
To prevent the free ends of the lower harness from moving apart, they were temporarily secured with a board.
After installing all the racks, the logs were attached below. They added rigidity, and it is needed because we will climb up and attach the upper harness.
We continue to assemble the garage frame
When all the beams are installed and assembled, we begin to assemble the rafter system. It was decided to make the roof sloping, and it would be temporary. Subsequently, the garage will be adjacent to the house (this is the first building on the site).
Having collected required quantity trusses were installed on the top trim. They fixed them with pieces of boards to the posts on both sides, then hammered them in with nails and reinforced them with corners on self-tapping screws.
The rafters also need to be placed straight up, otherwise the roof will slide away in winter. Because it’s worth checking often: before scoring, and after….
After everything was installed and secured, the sheathing was laid. A 40*150 mm board was used on it, laid with a gap of 40 cm.
Corrugated sheeting was placed on the sheathing.
We started making the gate fastening area. We installed a beam at the top and sides.
The gates will be up and down. A frame is being welded inside underneath them, along which they will drive off. A gate frame is welded from a 25*50 mm profile pipe according to the dimensions of the opening (with a small gap).
The sheets must be fastened with a gap of about 10 mm. For humidity-temperature expansion.
There is still a lot of work, but basically everything is ready. Crushed stone was poured inside until the floor was poured, but you can now park the car, as well as drink tea in the gazebo))
DIY garage on a strip foundation
Garage for two cars (separate boxes) unheated. They were built on sandy soil with low groundwater. That's why the foundation is shallow. They dug a trench around the perimeter, laid out the formwork, and tied the reinforcement frame. Everything is as usual. Filled with concrete.
Inside the tape was taken out excess soil, leveled the pit. The bottom was covered and covered with sand. It was spilled and compacted (with a vibrating plate).
Compacted sand
laid on top plastic film(for waterproofing), laid a metal mesh and filled it with M300 concrete.
The height of the screed is 10 cm. It was left to set for 2 weeks. Then they began to install the frame. The frame itself and the rafter system were made from 50*150 mm boards, the spacers and jibs were made from 100*25 mm.
Additional boards were placed in the corners for reinforcement. The pillars at the fastening points of doors and windows have also been strengthened. Installation step! walks” - the dimensions are small, but you need to install either a door block or a window block. I divided the rest as best I could, but didn’t make it more than 60 cm.
The rafter system was immediately assembled. Since there were load-bearing beams in the middle, they rested on them. rafter legs. They were placed at a distance of about 50 cm. Metal mounting plates and corners were used for reinforcement at the fastening points. They were mounted on self-tapping screws and the frame elements were connected with a long nail.
Stuffed on top of the frame windproof membrane. There is a lath on it inch board, the sheathing pitch is about 50 cm.
After filling the membrane and sheathing, installation of the outer cladding of the garage began. This is a metal profile for the walls and ondulin for the roof. There are no difficulties. Cut to size and attach with self-tapping screws.
Having spread the membrane on the roof (start from the bottom, glue the joints) and nailed the sheathing, we install the ondulin. It must be placed from below, moving upward.
It takes longer to tinker with the overhangs. They were covered with perforated siding (remnants from the construction of the house). A wind board made of dry wood 145*20 mm, painted white, was installed.
Installed wooden windows, painted white and a cheap Chinese door, which will later be replaced and placed in the barn. Corners are trimmed wooden board 145*20 mm, painted to match the roofing material.
Almost the result: more gates and insulation
The entrance was prepared: on one side, when pouring the foundation, an extended tape was poured (the height difference is greater). On the other side they supported it with a board. They filled it with screenings and compacted it. Entry is ready.
Roller shutters were installed last. At first, lift-and-turn doors were planned, but the price for them became unmerciful, so a cheaper option was installed.
The best place to keep a car is considered to be a stone or brick garage, but the cost of such structures, even when erected on your own, is extremely high. For car owners who want to save money, best option- collect metal garage with your own hands. With proper assembly and insulation, such a structure can be used all year round.
Types of metal garages
Metal garages are in great demand among car owners, but understanding the variety of products offered can be difficult. The designs of most garages are identical; their main differences are the place of production and the period of operation before sale.
Note! When buying a garage, ask the seller for a guarantee and a production license; if you are entering into a deal to purchase a used product, check the ownership documents and purchase receipts.
Factory kits
2-3 people can build a prefabricated metal garage using only a basic set of tools (hammer, spanners and etc.). For a high-quality product, all fasteners and plug-in parts of the structure are easy to assemble and do not require adjustment or additional equipment.
Many companies engaged in such production offer delivery of the structure to the site or pickup. A significant disadvantage of buying such a garage is the high price. In addition to basic, ready-made kits, some companies offer custom-made production, taking into account the area of the site, vehicle dimensions, etc.
Prefabricated metal garage used
On sites selling and exchanging used goods you can find both factory-made and alternative collapsible designs. The advantage of such a product is its low cost (about 2-3 times lower than new factory models). However, before purchasing it is worth considering some nuances. Many sellers do not disassemble and deliver the structure, and the fastening system of a used garage has a natural shrinkage, which makes disassembly difficult. In addition, there is a high risk of deformation of the component parts, which will make assembly very difficult. You should beware of unverified sellers: many are engaged in selling other people's garages.
DIY garage
The cheapest, but most labor-intensive option is to build a metal garage on your own from the foundation to the roof. When constructing such a structure, you can significantly save on materials. Besides, necessary tools You can accumulate it gradually, and then start building.
How to choose a foundation for a garage
Often, collapsible structures are operated without a foundation, and are installed directly on the ground or on a bulk cushion. However, such a technique can significantly damage the car: moisture coming from the ground will contribute to corrosion of both the garage and the car itself.
If you plan to make your metal garage not temporary, but a permanent home for your car, then you cannot do without a foundation. The construction of a prefabricated garage begins with choosing the type of foundation; the following types of structures are suitable for these purposes:
- Tape. This type of design is optimal in terms of the ratio “ price quality " To the benefits strip foundation
- include ease of construction and low cost of work. But it is worth remembering that work on the construction of such a structure can only be carried out in the warm season. Monolithic. Like the strip foundation, this type of foundation is made of concrete. But monolithic structures
- require large expenses and preparatory measures. Floating foundation (slab). If there are concrete slabs left after building the house or you have the opportunity to buy a used set, then such a design will not require much expense. Slab foundation made from plates that hold together cement mortar
, the result is a monolithic structure. Most often, car owners choose a foundation for a metal garage belt type
. You can see the detailed process of constructing a strip foundation, what mistakes are often made during its construction, as well as the nuances of concrete structures in this video:
Regardless of what type of foundation was chosen for the garage, the soil is prepared. To do this, remove the top grass layer of soil; if this is not done, with further use, the roots of the plants will rot, and the foundation will sag and swell. Choosing a location for an important part of construction. Flat, dry areas are best suited for these purposes. If there are wetlands nearby or the groundwater level is high, you will have to take care drainage system
to remove excess moisture from the area.
Creating a garage structure For self-construction
- garage you will need the following set of tools and materials:
- welding machine;
- Bulgarian;
- metal sheets from 2 mm;
metal corner.
Metal frames, sheets and other parts are brought to the construction site in disassembled form; you can build the structure yourself within a day.
Construction begins with welding the lower frame; it is welded to the reinforcement outlets from the foundation, so that the ends of the reinforcement are inside the building. Then they begin to fasten the vertical corner parts of the frame; they will become supports for the walls. On the front wall of the room, two vertical posts are welded, corresponding to the height of the future swing gates. All vertical posts are welded at the top with a connecting frame. The design can be either straight or pitched.
Creating a garage structure pitched roof the vertical posts of the entrance wall should be 20-30 cm higher, depending on the angle of the slope and the size of the structure. When erecting a gable structure, the rafter system is welded to the upper frame.
Intermediate vertical and horizontal posts are welded to the upper frame and the base of the structure. The greater the weight of the metal sheets, the smaller the step between the structural elements.
Important! When welding metal sheets overlapping, the distance between the intermediate struts of the structure is made 5-7 cm less than the width of the metal sheets.
When the frame is ready, the wall sheets are bolted or welded to it. Recommended metal thickness is from 2 mm, minimum - 1.2 mm. After the walls, they begin the roofing; the sheets are welded from the main frame to the ridge, or from the back wall to the front wall (in the case of a pitched roof). The sheets on the roof are welded with an overlap of 100-150 mm, so that the upper ones overlap the lower ones.
Gate welding
Metal garage doors are created according to the same scheme as the frame. First, a frame is welded from the corners so that the gate fits into the opening and is made 2-3 mm smaller. Sheet sheathing is welded on top. Standard ones have two hinged doors. This fastener is convenient because the gate will open and close easily. Bearings are often attached to the hinges for optimal rotation of swing gate leaves.
When assembling the gate, the place for the gate is welded in advance from the same corners. When making calculations and installation, it is important to consider which direction the gate will open. The place for the castle is cut out immediately. The gate is attached to hinges or other fasteners.
Insulation of the garage
Many car owners do not know how to insulate a metal garage; the main difficulties arise when choosing insulation. Foam plastic is often used to insulate a garage, but the material has a significant drawback - it is highly flammable. IN last years often used for these purposes mineral wool. The material is made from organic compounds, which makes it safe for humans, and it is not flammable.
You can insulate a metal garage with mineral wool yourself. First, a frame is made for the walls and ceiling from wood or metal profiles in increments of 50-60 cm. Then, insulation boards are laid inside the resulting cells, starting from the bottom. The second layer of mineral wool is laid on top in a checkerboard pattern, covering the joints of the previous slabs. The insulation is sheathed on top with wood or plasterboard.
Important! When wood is used for lathing under insulation, it is treated with fire retardant compounds.
Swinging garage doors are insulated with polystyrene foam 2 cm thick; for this purpose, fire-resistant material is used. The polystyrene foam is attached in 2 layers in a checkerboard pattern using special glue.
The final stage of construction is painting the metal garage. For this purpose, paints with anti-corrosion substances that comply with fire safety standards are used.
Conclusion
The construction of a metal garage will not only help you create a place for your car, but will also provide excellent construction practice. A garage built with your own hands will be a reliable home for your car. The main thing you shouldn’t be afraid of when building is to try something new and learn from your own mistakes.
Chapter 2. Types and sizes of garage
Having decided on the site for construction, you need to decide what kind of garage you want to build. It is necessary to consider what vehicle or vehicles the garage is intended for. It is unlikely that you should focus only on the dimensions of your current car. After all, no one is immune from the possibility or need to change a car to a more spacious one either after a year or after 10 years. Plus, the more spacious your garage is, the more tools you can store in it. You will be able to freely walk between the wall and the car and carry out repairs in the garage, rather than in the open air.
There are no mandatory standards for sizes personal garage. However, for most passenger cars a garage 6 m long, 4 m wide and 2.5 m high is suitable. These dimensions, judging by their prevalence, claim to become an unofficial standard for garage construction.
If funds allow, you can arrange a garage with a canopy (Fig. 2.1). This improvement will allow you to repair and maintain your car in more comfortable conditions, and will also provide additional parking space for a second car. In Fig. 2.2 shows a version of the plan for such a garage.
If you plan to place two cars, or a minibus, or a jeep in the garage, then the size of the garage should be increased. In Fig. Figure 2.3 shows a version of a two-car garage plan. This garage provides a single combined volume for two cars. If necessary, you can build a separate garage, which, of course, will cost more.
In addition to size, the layout of the garage is also important. To be able to conveniently repair your car and store food, it is recommended to build a garage with an inspection pit and a basement (Fig. 2.4). If there is no need for additional utility space, then, of course, it is cheaper to build a one-level garage, without a basement or mezzanine.
Rice. 2.1. Option garage plan with canopy
Rice. 2.2. Plan of a combined garage for two cars: 1 – parking; 2 – utility room; 3 – staircase to the cellar; 4 - entrance vestibule
Rice. 2.3. Plan of a separate garage for two cars with utility rooms
When deciding on the size of the garage, you should also take into account that, in addition to ventilation and good lighting, the room will need to provide a device for safe parking, a washbasin, a drain grate for water drainage, sensors fire alarm, fire-fighting equipment (fire extinguisher and sandbox), a sufficient number of electrical outlets, work clothes, racks for storing tools, spare parts and devices used for car repairs.
Regardless of the size of the building, there are several planning options for garages for construction on the site. Thus, there are free-standing, attached and built-in options for permanent garages. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages.
Built-in The type of garages is envisaged at the design stage of the house and is built along with the house. In other cases, the construction of such a garage will require redevelopment of the entire house and large material and labor costs. But this type of garage structure will save area of the site by using usable area for the lawn or garden. In addition, taking up the basement space or part of the first floor, such a garage can accommodate several cars.
Rice. 2.4. Garage with inspection pit and basement: 1 – facing board; 2 – roll roofing (ruberoid, etc.); 3 – floor beam; 4 – beam suspended ceiling; 5 – mezzanine shield; 6 – mezzanine hinge; 7 – blind area; 8 – foundation; 9 – inspection hole; 10 – basement; 11 – workbench, racks, vice
There are several special requirements to consider when building this type of garage. Because this Utility room, it must be equipped with a fire safety system, all walls must be fireproof and they should be treated with a special composition that will prevent organic fumes from entering the residential part of the house. The wall that is common to the garage and the house must be solid and insulated. It is necessary to take care of ventilation, water supply and heating systems that are compatible with those used in the main part of the house in order to eliminate unnecessary heat loss.
Standing separately The type of garage has its pros and cons. Such a garage can be built independently of the construction of the house. The location of the garage and its layout depend only on your individual needs and desires. The garage can be installed directly to the fence, which will make it easier to access the roadway. Such a garage is safer, since in the event of a fire, the fire has less chance of spreading to the house and other buildings. The disadvantage of such a garage is the reduction in the area of land that can be used for other purposes. Another problem with such a garage is heating. After all, building a cold garage is not a very bright prospect, and heating a separate building is expensive. To do this, you will have to lay pipes across the entire area or install autonomous system heating, which will require not only material costs, but also physical effort.
Attached garage is an intermediate option between built-in and free-standing. An attached garage differs from a built-in garage primarily in that it can be built after the house itself has been built. But at the same time, such a garage retains a set of advantages of built-in garages. Here you can provide a unified system of water supply, heating and electrical wiring. Such a garage has at least one common wall with the house, and the option of a common roof is not excluded. As a rule, such garages are built on the back side of the house, and a common wall, even without separate garage heating, will provide positive temperatures in winter.
Regardless of the type of building, the rules for constructing a garage will vary due to the choice of construction material. There are, for example, metal, concrete, brick, wooden garages, as well as a garage built from cinder blocks or foam blocks. The choice of material is determined by both economic and aesthetic considerations. Obviously, a garage built in the same style as a residential building will look more organic and natural, although this rule, like all others, is not without exceptions.
First of all, garages are divided into metal and non-metal.
The metal garage can be transported. If necessary, you can dismantle the garage and install it in another location. Another advantage of a metal garage is its low price. Metal – durable material. The metal structure does not require plastering the walls or pouring a concrete floor, installing a roof, or waterproofing. In a metal garage you can store winter and summer tires, various auto parts, as well as all items that have become unnecessary at home or in an apartment.
The disadvantage of a metal garage is low thermal insulation. As a result, with sudden changes in temperature inside the garage, condensation is released from the steam-saturated air, which increases corrosion of both the metal parts of the car and the garage structure itself.
In addition, a disadvantage of a metal garage can be considered its fire vulnerability. If there is a fire in the immediate vicinity of the garage, there is a high probability of fire penetrating into the structure. Therefore, you should not locate a metal garage near possible sources of ignition.
Most often, metal garages do not provide heating capabilities and do not have electricity. This makes it very difficult to repair and inspect the vehicle inside the garage. In winter, a metal garage is difficult to open because frost makes the locks icy. In addition, in cold weather it is difficult to start and warm up a car in such a garage.
Metal garages are more likely to attract the attention of burglars and car thieves. Such a garage is usually equipped with a simple lock; the metal structure itself can be lifted with a jack. A metal garage needs additional protection. For example, you can make the metal floor cast with the rest of the garage structure and install secure locks.
A brick garage is a full-fledged real estate object (Fig. 2.5). Construction of a permanent garage will require additional material costs and will take more time. But a brick garage provides the best conditions for storing and repairing a car (Fig. 2.6). Brick is a reliable and durable material, so a brick garage is reliable and practical, it will last a long time and function properly.
Brick holds heat well, but the design is different high humidity Therefore, such a garage requires heating and ventilation systems. In addition, building a brick garage involves installing a solid foundation, additional thermal insulation, special insulation or air wells.
A garage made of stone or brick (or silicate blocks) can be equipped with electrical wiring, hot and cold water. A brick garage is more difficult to break into because it can be equipped with custom doors, locks and alarms without having to rely on the manufacturer.
Everything that has been said about the advantages of a brick garage over a metal one can also be applied to a wooden garage. After all, modern finishing materials like metal or wood siding can make wooden building no less aesthetically attractive than brick.
Rice. 2.5. Brick garage: A- general form; b- side view
Rice. 2.6. Brick garage plan
Although there are many types of durable structural materials on the market, wood is one of the most sought-after materials for the construction of any structure, including garages. Of course, from a safety point of view, a wooden garage is not the best option, because wood is easily flammable and also deteriorates from water. In addition, such a garage is poorly protected from robbers. On the other hand, in most regions wood is the most affordable and inexpensive material, so you can cheaply build a garage yourself. And projects of wooden houses with a garage simply require the use similar material. At the same time, a wooden garage is good in hot weather, when the owner needs to protect the car body from the scorching sun.
Now that we have decided on the type and size of the garage and supported our decision with drawings, we will begin to lay out the layout of the garage on the ground.
First of all, you need to completely remove the plant soil. After this, the garage plan in natural dimensions is transferred to the site intended for construction, using a goniometer tool, tape measure, cord and wooden stakes.
The breakdown begins with determining on the ground the extreme corner points of the building's dimensions. Recommended sizes – 3850? 5500 mm. Using a cord stretched over cast-offs, the axes of the foundations under the load-bearing walls are laid out.
The cast-off (Fig. 2.7) is made up of wooden stakes 10–15 cm thick. They need to be dug into the ground, and at a level of 75–100 cm, boards must be nailed to them, checking the level of the horizontality of the upper edge of the board. The width of the nailed boards should be 15–20 cm, thickness – 2.0–2.5 cm.
The distance from the cast-off stakes to the future walls should be from 1.5 m. The cast-off can be continuous only near the four corners of the garage. It is necessary to fix the position of the axes of the building and its individual parts during the subsequent layout of the plan.
Rice. 2.7. Scheme of cast-off installation: 1 – cast-off; 2 – cord
For further marking, the distances between the axes of the garage walls indicated in the project must be transferred to the cast-off, hammering nails in the right places. It is necessary to stretch cords between the nails that define the edges of the foundations. Using a plumb line, the intersection points of these cords are marked on the surface of the earth and stakes are driven into them, between which the cord is also pulled. When performing this operation, you will need a tape measure and a goniometer tool.
Measure the diagonals of the rectangle, which is marked with stakes driven into the ground. If they are equal, then the axes are laid out correctly and the walls of the future building will adjoin one another at right angles. Now you can begin excavating soil in the pit for the cellar and trenches for the foundation.
The trench profile can be kept rectangular if its depth does not exceed 1 m. Otherwise, a slight slope or slope should be arranged. To prevent soil from falling between the walls during excavation, you can install wooden boards with spacers.
The soil removed from the trench should be stored inside the garage plan unless a cellar is provided. Having completed the construction of the foundation, the excavated soil should be evenly distributed between the internal walls of the foundation, leveled and compacted.
Now you can deliver to the construction site required amount building materials, unless, of course, this was done in advance.
From the book Heating and water supply country house author Smirnova Lyudmila NikolaevnaChapter 1 Types of heating Heating is the artificial heating of buildings, which involves maintaining a given temperature in a room and compensating for heat losses. Heating is installed both in residential buildings and in utility buildings. In residential premises
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From the book Home Improvement and Repair Quickly and Cheaply. DIY communications and interior in just 2 months author Kazakov Yuri NikolaevichChapter 2. Types of non-wood raw materials and finishing materials B Lately A wide variety of new materials are used in the manufacture of wicker furniture. Paper plastic is used to cover table tops, shelves and other flat surfaces.
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From the book Cosmetics and Soap self made author Zgurskaya Maria PavlovnaOption 3. “Sandwich” for the construction of a garage and bathhouse Panels element-by-element assembly It’s not for nothing that they got the name “sandwich”. This word sufficiently reflects the structure of the enclosing structure: fixed on load-bearing frame construction cassette + insulation inserted into it
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From the book Do-it-yourself stoves for baths and saunas author Kalyuzhny Sergey IvanovichSizes and placement of windows Windows that are too small or incorrectly positioned in space make the room dark. Windows that are too large sometimes make you feel uncomfortable. That is why it is so important at the initial stage to correctly plan the size, type and
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From the author's bookChapter 1. Selecting a location and preparing a site for a garage The first rule in choosing a location for building a garage does not need explanation - every motorist dreams of having a garage near their home, and this is completely natural. Therefore, if such an opportunity exists, be sure to
From the author's bookChapter 9. Construction of walls and roofs of a wooden garage Construction of walls Wooden garages are divided by type of material (from rounded logs, from timber and from boards), as well as by type of construction (frame and solid). Installation of the frame of a wooden garage begins immediately after
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From the author's bookChapter 12. Garage equipment Electricity can be supplied to the garage from the living space if the garage is adjacent to the house. If this is a separate, remote building, then conduct electricity from the local overhead power line. To do this, at the outlet point on the pole
The issue of car safety is very important for. A garage is undoubtedly a good way to provide this. There are many types of garages. First of all, garages differ in the material from which they are made. Thus, metal and brick garages are common. Each variety has its own positive and negative sides, which must be carefully weighed in order to answer the question: which is better?
Brick garage: reliability, strength and durability
Let's look at the features of brick garages. It should be noted right away that its construction refers to capital construction and requires significant financial and time investments. However, having once built a brick garage, as well as a garage made of blocks, the owner will receive a convenient and durable structure. Well, the convenience here comes from the fact that, as a rule, such a garage can be adjusted to any request of the owner. Here everything depends on the flight of fancy, the owner’s considerations, what kind of garage to build, and the customer’s financial security, of course.
Thus, such buildings are equipped with observation and vegetable pits and possibly additional premises. In short, you can build a multifunctional room to suit every taste and budget, in which, in addition to the car, everything that does not fit into the apartment can be stored.
Brick garage - reliable and safe
Moreover, a garage made of blocks will be built much faster than a brick one. In any case, it is better to insulate both of them, then there will be no problems with. In general, a brick building will subsequently require periodic maintenance, which includes plastering the walls and covering the roof. You will definitely need to pour a concrete floor underneath. Subsequently, it will be impossible to move or move the building anywhere. It is important at the design stage to decide what the garage should be like and where it should be best located. It is important to maintain certain distances, that is, it is not advisable to locate the garage close to the living quarters, otherwise the exhaust gases of the car will enter the house. In addition to exhaust gases, fumes from gasoline and other substances that have found their refuge in the garage will also be released there.
A brick garage can be equipped with electricity and water supply. This can be seen as both a plus and a minus. Positive side lies, first of all, in convenience. In such a building it is possible to carry out work related to it at any time of the year. Starting a car engine in a warm room is much easier than in a warm room. On the other hand, the presence of heating, water supply and lighting entails monthly payments, which can be discouraging.
When researching which garage is better, it is important to remember that a brick garage still provides more reliable protection against unauthorized entry. Whatever one may say, garages are always attractive to intruders.
Metal garage: fast, easy, cheap
A metal garage is a box welded from metal sheets. It is advisable that the metal be coated with paint, this makes it easier to maintain during operation. This is due to the high ability of the metal to oxidize and corrode. It turns out that making a metal garage is much easier than building a brick building. In addition, the production time for a metal garage is much shorter.
In addition to short production times, metal structures have an advantage in price. It is much cheaper than a brick building. An undoubted advantage is the lightness of this design from the point of view that it can be transported to any place. For example, you have planned some kind of construction on the site, but the garage interferes with the implementation of the plan. Then you can solve the problem by moving the structure to any convenient place.
This design is also very durable, it is only important to keep an eye on it. paint coating to extend its service life and avoid premature failure.
A metal garage is cheaper to build - but it is not safe
By by and large This is where the positive qualities of a metal garage end. And the lightness and transportability of the structure can play a cruel joke on the owner. If we add here the unreliability of door locks, then the design becomes easy, because you can get inside simply by lifting it with a jack. If, when deciding which garage is best to build, you have come to the conclusion that a metal garage will suit you perfectly, then it is important to secure it as much as possible. Fortunately, there are several recommendations in this regard. Firstly, if possible, it is better to also make the floor all-welded metal with the rest of the structure. By adding reliable locks to all this, you can get a completely acceptable place for. You can also simply place it in an area that is more or less protected from intruders.
Another disadvantage of a metal garage is its high thermal conductivity. In other words, temperature changes in the garage are the same as outside. Sharp temperature fluctuations cause the formation of condensation in the garage, and this in turn leads to premature corrosion of both the car and the garage itself.
Another serious disadvantage of a metal garage is its instability to fire. If there is a fire nearby, the contents of the garage need to be stored as quickly as possible, because the fire is guaranteed to penetrate inside. In addition, a metal garage can be severely deformed from exposure to high temperatures.
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For true car enthusiasts, a car is not only a means of transportation, but also a reliable ally, friend and “fascinating designer.” The car is looked after, spark plugs and oil are changed, excellent fuel is added. But the highest manifestation of care is building a garage with your own hands. Such structures are rightly called the most reliable, since they were erected by scrupulous vehicle owners who know better than anyone what kind of “living space” is needed for their four-wheeled “iron friend.” In addition, money is saved from family budget, since unnecessary materials are not purchased and various expensive services are not used.
Build a garage constructor in a few days
Paperwork
A self-made garage, which is built on a plot of land that is not intended for construction, is considered a self-construction from the point of view of legislation. The same applies to the situation when work is carried out on land that does not belong to the owner of the car. Permits for finished building no need to register if:
- the garage is not permanent (metal and frame buildings);
- the building was not erected for commercial purposes on a summer cottage or garden plot;
- the building serves as an auxiliary structure.
All other options for unauthorized development are subject to legalization. A plot of land is also subject to registration, if such a procedure has not been carried out before.
Types of garages
Car shelters come in different designs. It all depends on financial capabilities, personal preferences and the available territory for development. A garage can be attached to the house from the end of a country house or residential building or behind it, or built under the house itself.
There are built-in garages with offset floors, but such an arrangement creates inconvenience during operation. Collapsible structures are available for sale. If desired, you can arrange a canopy. The cost of building a garage of this type is tolerable. This structure is the simplest, but at the same time an unreliable option.
But the most popular are detached garages, which are best located closer to the entrance to the land plot, so as not to build access roads through the entire territory, which “eat up” valuable square meters. The garage can be located on the building line of the site so that the garage doors go directly to the street. Such buildings are permanently made of brick with a gable or flat roof, part of a utility block or prefabricated metal structures.
Construction of a garage on your site
The long-awaited time has come to begin construction of the garage. Like any other job, building a car shelter will bring a lot of trouble, but also a lot of pleasure, and it will also allow you to save a lot. Looking at photos of garage construction, you will get the sea positive emotions. And the result will not disappoint you!
Garage project
The beginning of any construction project is the project. You don't necessarily need to use a roll of drawings, but if you intend to create something truly worthwhile, it's worth drawing and describing the object first.
First of all, at the design stage you need to determine the following:
- Problems that the garage will solve. Decide whether the shelter will serve solely as a parking place for the car, or whether repair work will also be carried out in it? Maybe you need an inspection hole? Write down all your wishes on paper.
- Shelter height dimensions. These parameters are determined based on the characteristics and size of the site on which the garage will be built, and on the tasks that it will solve.
If you only need it for parking a car, an area of 3 by 6 meters will suffice (if your car is not a Hummer). In such a room you can freely place a car up to 2 meters wide and 4.5 meters long. Along the garage there will be 50 centimeters on both sides for opening the doors and convenient exit from the car, and in front of it there will be space for parking.
The height of the garage must be made sufficient for the passage of a car - 1.5 - 1.9 meters. But it is better to tie this indicator to the size of the gate, which has a height of 2-2.5 meters. If you are not the owner of a prestigious foreign car, which is up to 5 meters long and up to 1.9 meters wide, the size of the garage should be increased.
If you plan to place an additional cellar and workbench, the dimensions, of course, should be increased further. However, in large garage it is convenient to repair and maintain a car, and on racks and shelves you can place tools, utility utensils and seasonal tires. When constructing a shelter for two cars, in addition to the parking space between vehicles, it is necessary to provide an additional distance of at least 70 centimeters.
Selecting a location
To choose a place to build a garage, it is recommended to develop a master plan for the land plot and place all the estate’s buildings on it, taking into account fire safety and sanitary and hygienic standards. It is also necessary to take into account the location of the garage relative to the boundaries of the land plot and the house, as well as the convenience of access to the garage.
The garage can be placed on the building line and in the depths of the site, if the doors, when opened, do not interfere with the movement of cars along the roadway; at a distance of 1 meter from the neighboring plot of land, if water does not fall on it, flowing from the roof of the garage.
The entrance to the garage, according to accepted sanitary standards, should be located at least 10 meters from the windows of neighboring houses.
Fire safety standards also dictate their requirements: separately standing garage It is recommended to place it no closer than 9 meters from the house and no closer than 15 meters from buildings that are finished with polymer materials.
At this stage, it is necessary to transfer the sketches on a sheet of paper to the real area. This stage requires a dozen pegs that are about forty centimeters long, a heavy hammer, a tape measure of five meters, possibly more, and a nylon cord. To link the garage to the terrain, you should determine the point at which one corner of the garage will be located, and the position of the shelter for the car relative to this point in space.
Construction materials
When building a garage with your own hands, you can use various building materials:
- brick is the most familiar and very common material, the construction in this case is quite reliable;
- reinforced concrete allows you to build reliable garage, which will be collapsible, you can dismantle such a structure at any time;
- slag concrete costs less than brick, but is more labor-intensive to work with, and the safety of the shelter is lower;
- metal allows you to build a structure quite quickly, and the cost of building a garage is not exorbitant, since it does not require large expenses for laying the foundation;
- tree - not the best suitable material for the construction of a garage, not reliable and in need of constant maintenance.
Excavation and foundation
When building a garage, excavation work is done manually. A trench under a monolithic foundation must be dug at least 40 centimeters wide. Depending on the level of soil freezing in a certain region, the depth is chosen to be 0.6 - 1.2 meters. As a rule, a meter depth is enough.
Make the bottom of the trench not loose, that is, the soil should be selected up to a layer with natural density. Use a shovel to work the walls so that they are vertical and level. There are options for garage foundations great amount. But we will focus on a rubble concrete foundation, which is quite simple and relatively inexpensive.
A rubble concrete foundation is made simply: it is customary to lay rubble stone in rows in a trench, and pour cement mortar into each row until the trench is filled to the very top. To fill the rubble, take a solution of at least grade 150. To do this, mix Portland cement grade 400 with sand, based on the calculation of 2.5 buckets of sand per bucket of cement. Pour water until the required mobility of the solution is achieved, near the bucket.
Garage basement
Along the perimeter of the trench for the construction of the plinth, formwork should be installed from boards about 10 centimeters wide. It is customary to set the formwork by level. If you have an uneven site, then take the highest place as a basis, add ten centimeters to the level of the base and mark the horizon from there.
Along the base it is necessary to install horizontal waterproofing from several layers of roofing material that are laid dry. Waterproofing is needed to prevent the garage walls from absorbing capillary moisture from the ground. Before construction of the garage and walls begins, it is necessary to install garage doors, which will be fixed into the masonry as the wall is built.
Garage Doors
The gate must be reliable and easy to use. They come in swing, sectional, roller and lift-and-turn types. The gate can open automatically or mechanically. The first option is preferable, since the product is opened using the control panel without leaving the car. However, it is worth considering a manual mode in case of lack of electricity.
Make the frame of the gate leaves from wooden blocks that are 90-100 mm wide and 50 mm thick. Paint the outside of the frame and nail 6mm plywood onto the wet paint. Turn the workpiece over and fill the empty cavity between the bars with insulation directly onto the fresh paint to prevent the insulation from sliding down.
After this, you should paint the frame on the other side and nail plywood or hardboard, also pre-painted over the entire surface. The result will be a warm sandwich of plywood, insulation and hardboard. Garage door leaves must be hung with three metal hinges in such a way that the leaf fits tightly into the quarter, which is selected in the door block.
To increase the strength of the connection with the wall, embedded parts are welded to the gate frame - round rods with a diameter of 10-12 millimeters. When laying, the rods must be sealed in the seams. The gate is installed vertically, checking with a plumb line or level. Check the vertical position along the gate frame, left and right. You can move the gate with a small crowbar or with flat stones placed under the corners.
Walls in the garage
After installing the garage door, you need to start laying the walls, lay cinder block (foam concrete or brick) with a wall width of 200 millimeters using a “brick” - ordinary chain laying: the next row should overlap the seams of the previous row. Laying should start from the corners. Next, you should stretch a thin cord between them, and lay the remaining blocks along this cord. Then we raise the corners and the process repeats.
It is recommended to check the verticality of the walls with a plumb line, paying special attention to the verticality of the corners. Use a level to check the rows are horizontal. Make sure there is an appropriate slope to ensure proper drainage of rainwater. End walls For this purpose, make the garage at different heights, making the upper edge of the side wall with a slope.
The slope must be arranged based on the differences in height: for every meter 5 centimeters. For example, with a garage length of 6 meters, the total difference will reach 30 centimeters. To ensure an even slope, pull the cord to guide you.
In addition, it is recommended to take care of scaffolding, which is necessary when laying walls higher than 1.5 meters. You can make scaffolding from anything - old door leaves, boards with the condition that they can easily support the weight of one person, several buckets of mortar and 5 - 6 building blocks. The total weight is about 170 - 200 kilograms.
Mortar for laying garage walls is mixed at the rate of one bucket of cement marked 400 per 4.5 buckets of sand. Do not make the solution too liquid; it should reach the consistency of thick sour cream. To make the solution more plastic and not delaminate, add about half a bucket of ordinary clay or lime paste to it.
Make the wall height on the gate side about 2.5 meters. The height of the wall into which the slope goes should be about 2 meters. If necessary, the height of the walls can be safely increased to 3, even 4 meters, but the masonry in this situation must be reinforced metal mesh every 4 - 5 rows.
Ceiling and roof
The garage floor can be made using metal beams with plank lining. To cover, you need to stock up on steel beams with a height of 100 - 120 millimeters. Such beams can cover a garage that is up to 6 meters wide. Choose the length of the beams 20 - 25 centimeters longer than the width of the garage so that they extend into the wall by at least 10 centimeters.
The beams need to be laid across the garage, parallel to the shortest wall in increments of 80 centimeters. It is recommended to lay the beams and seal them in long wall, and then repeat its slope. After this, proceed to sewing the ceiling. Lay 40 mm thick boards along the bottom flanges of the beams, trying to move them as tightly as possible.
Place roofing felt on top of the boards, rolling the roll across the garage so that the edges bend 10 centimeters upward. Fill the roofing felt with slag, expanded clay or semi-rigid mineral slab. The roof at the front and rear should protrude beyond the garage wall by at least 20 centimeters in order to protect the wall from water. Canopies are made from boards, running under top shelf beams.
On top of the slag, make a screed of cement mortar, which is prepared in the same proportion as for masonry. The thickness of the screed is ideally at least 20 mm, and it is better if it reaches 30 - 35 millimeters. The screed must be done without allowing strong bumps and depressions. In this form, the garage roof will absorb moisture, leaking even with light rain.
To avoid such situations, it is worth covering the roof with a waterproof material, using rolled roofing materials of the roofing material variety. Roofing material and all modifications (bicrost, aquaizol and rubemast) are usually glued to the roof using two methods: using bitumen mastic or by fusing.
Before gluing the roofing felt, it is recommended to treat the cement screed with a bitumen primer or primer, otherwise it will not stick. You can prepare the primer yourself: to do this, you need to mix molten bitumen and diesel fuel, or bitumen and used motor oil in a ratio of 1 to 3. It should be remembered that bitumen is poured into oil (diesel fuel), and not vice versa.
It takes two people to glue the roofing felt carpet. They begin gluing from the low part of the roof, moving up the slope, across the glue rolls, with an overlap of at least 10 centimeters. At the end and at the beginning of the roof, roofing material is usually overlapped onto the end board of the canopy. Before installation, the beams should be painted twice, the boards should be treated with an antiseptic and painted on both sides.
Floors and blind areas
In the garage, it is customary to install the floor at the level of the plinth edge. Since a car will drive into the car shelter, the most stringent requirements are placed on the strength of the floor. high requirements. The material for the floor is concrete. The thickness of the layer reaches 8-10 centimeters. Before laying the concrete mass, the earthen base is thoroughly cleaned and leveled.
If backfilling is needed, it can be done with fine crushed stone, or with sand followed by compaction. For the floor, ready-made concrete M200 is ordered. Or they prepare the solution themselves based on the following proportion: 1 bucket of cement, 3 buckets of fine crushed stone and 2 buckets of sand. Take no more than a bucket of water.
To make the floor level, you need to tighten the laces, or level the beacons from the profile pipe. When installing a floor in a garage, it is customary to lay concrete in portions without interruption. If you decide to display beacons, then lay concrete between the beacons in strips. After laying, the concrete must be thoroughly rubbed and, if desired, reinforced.
Outside the garage you need to create a blind area 50 centimeters wide. They carry out the work in the same way as the floor, first arranging a crushed stone base and laying concrete on top. The thickness of the concrete on the blind area should be about 4-5 centimeters. The blind area should have a slight slope directed away from the garage, since its purpose is to drain melt and rainwater from the walls.
Finishing and heating
The garage does not require special finishing, but it would not be superfluous to rub the walls with cement mortar, or even plaster them in one layer and whitewash them with lime. Insulating a car shelter is an open question, but no amount of insulation will save you in the winter cold without primitive heating equipment. Insulation can be carried out using foam plastic slabs 5 centimeters thick, or semi-rigid mineral wool slabs.
Attached and built-in garages are usually warm because they are heated using the home boiler. Garage heating can be water or electric. It is also possible to install oil convectors and infrared heaters. But in any case, the temperature in winter should be at least 5-6 degrees Celsius.
Remember that cars do not “live” for long in a room that is too warm. High temperatures promotes the formation of condensation on the body, leading to corrosion of car parts and shortening its service life.
Garage ventilation
Arrange good supply and exhaust ventilation in the garage, through which the smell of hot oils and gasoline, as well as exhaust gases, will be removed from the room, which will help dry the car and create normal air exchange, which for one car is 180 m3/h.
Effective ventilation implies 6-10 times air exchange. To ensure this, it is customary to use three modes of ventilation: combined, mechanical and natural. The most inexpensive and in a simple way is natural air exchange. Install supply grilles at the bottom of the gate. Air will be removed from the garage through a special deflector exhaust device, which is located at the end of the exhaust duct.
The air duct in the garage is located near the wall opposite the gate. This design works in this way: heavy fresh air enters the garage by gravity through the supply grilles, displacing the less dense exhaust air. To ensure effective ventilation, the cross-section of the supply system must be 2 times larger than the cross-section of the exhaust system. But the natural regime also has its disadvantages, because it depends on various external factors: differences in internal and external temperatures, as well as wind pressure.
If an exhaust fan is installed in the garage, it turns out combined system ventilation. It is mounted in the air duct that passes through the roof of the garage, or into the wall. The disadvantages of such a system are the constant work exhaust fan, lack of filtration and heating of air that comes from the street.
Mechanical ventilation does not have the listed flaws, because in this case special devices of the exhaust and supply systems are responsible for the removal and supply of air. Forced ventilation consists of a filter, fan and heater. Air enters the system through ventilation duct, is heated, filtered and enters the room through the air distributor. Exhaust air is removed through an exhaust fan.
Inspection hole
An inspection pit is considered a necessary part of the garage, since modern cars from time to time require Maintenance and repairs. For some car owners, the installation of an inspection hole is most likely a tribute to fashion and habit rather than a necessity.
But if you have decided to have a hole, then start work by marking it on the surface of the garage site. It is recommended to move the inspection hole 10-20 cm to the right relative to the central axis in order to increase the free space on the left side for the driver to move and the workbench device.
The length of the pit should be equal to the length of the car minus the width of the bumper. This is done so that you do not accidentally fall into an open hole with your foot. To repair the rear and front of the car, the car must be moved forward or backward.
It is better not to equip the entrance to the pit with a ladder because of the risk of injury; in addition, in the pit there will always be high humidity, and therefore the wooden staircase will rot very quickly. Instead of a ladder, it is recommended to make several steps 30-35 centimeters wide and in increments of 30-40 centimeters. The steps must be filled with concrete with the walls of the pit.
The surface of the steps is good to use for tools during repairs; you can lean on them to create additional force when lifting heavy machine parts. It is advisable to frame the upper borders with a corner to protect them from destruction. The corners must be reinforced - weld metal bolts or rods on the side to rigidly fasten the inspection pit box in the concrete.
It is mandatory to install a limiting block along the edges of the contour of the pit; in this case, you need to make an oval on the outer side, which pushes the car away from the hole - when hitting it, the wheel will slide off the block to the outer side.
Then you can use different options for closing the pit with lids. The framing contour of the pit and the lid are made of shields, which consist of three to four boards that are 40 millimeters thick. To facilitate movement along the pit of the shields, balls are inserted into the lower part of the boards, which differ in diameter 15-20 millimeters.
Access to the garage
The road to the garage must be included in project documentation. The type of coating, on the one hand, must correspond to the style of the car shelter, on the other hand, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the soil, the groundwater level and the geology of the site. A lightweight version of masonry involves fastening bricks or tiles with mortar; some solutions involve backfilling with sand, gravel and drainage.
Finally, the access road needs to be linked into a single harmonious system with garden paths, taking into account the needs of the home owners, because such “transport highways” divide the personal territory into functional areas. It is also recommended to ensure stylistic compatibility of various coatings.
The driveway to the garage must have a hard and level surface, which can be made from concrete slabs, figured elements of paving or asphalt. Such a solid base will protect the path from splitting under the weight of the machine. When building an access road to the garage, it is imperative to follow the technology for constructing the garage and the road, since without this, with the onset of spring, the path may swell and the tiles may move apart.
Thus, you already know how to build a car shelter with your own hands. To reinforce the material, watch a video about building a garage, after which you can stock up necessary materials and tools and get to work immediately!