Having picked up the correct drawing of the drill sharpening device, you can make homemade full-fledged equipment at home. Thanks to such a device, the task of ensuring the desired geometric shape of the tool is greatly simplified.
When using it, there is no need to worry not only about the rotation of potentially dangerous sharpening stones, but also about the sharpening angles, which need to be properly maintained, fishing each degree by hand.
Features of using homemade sharpening devices
In the process of drilling holes in metal products, drills wear out quite a bit, which leads to their heating and loss of their properties. To avoid such a phenomenon, measures are required to ensure the regular restoration of their geometric parameters. This can be done using special equipment for sharpening drilling tools. The creation of such a simple device can be done independently, which will allow for high-quality sharpening without any significant financial costs.
Many experienced specialists practically do not use sharpening devices, since they are absolutely confident in their experience and eye, which allows them to sharpen drills correctly. But in practice, the use of such devices is extremely necessary, since it allows the mechanization of this process. As a result of such work, the maximum accuracy and quality of the sharpening will be ensured.
The modern market offers various types of equipment that allows you to carry out the restoration of the geometry of cutting tools in a high-quality manner, even in the absence of experience in this matter. At the same time, there is no urgent need to purchase such products, since they can be made by hand according to the existing drawings of tools for sharpening drills.
Drawings of the simplest devices
The simplest devices for sharpening can be sleeves, the inner diameter of which corresponds to the transverse dimensions of the drills. The bushing is rigidly fixed to a secure base, taking into account a certain angle. When selecting a bushing for such devices, you should pay attention to the correspondence of its inner diameter with the transverse dimension of the sharpened tools. It is forbidden for the machined tools to dangle in the bushing, since, even with a deviation of 1-2 degrees along the axis from the required values, the quality and accuracy of sharpening may significantly decrease.
Such homemade drill sharpeners should be equipped with clips. For their manufacture, copper or aluminum tubes are suitable, the inner diameter of which is equal to the typical size of the drilling tool used.
In some cases, the task can be simplified by installing a wooden block on this structure, in which holes are to be drilled, with a diameter corresponding to the tool used. One of the most important elements of such a product is the presence of a handyman, which is necessary for:
- ensuring correct fixation of the drilling tool and the possibility of accurate movement in relation to the surface of the abrasive stone;
- creating a stop point for the drill to be sharpened.
Such products from oak bars, in which holes of different sizes are provided, are the most reliable. Thanks to them, high-quality and accurate sharpening of tools is carried out. The main task that must be solved by a home-made machine or similar device is the correct orientation of the cutting part of the machined tools to obtain the accuracy of the required sharpening angle.
For the manufacture of a home-made machine for sharpening drills, a number of different design variations of such equipment can be used. With the appropriate drawings and understanding of the principle of operation of this equipment, you can make the grinding equipment yourself at home.
The structure consists of the following elements:
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Mount for drill and stop screw
Bolts, nuts, pins, screws
There are important rules that must be observed during the operation of such a device, namely, the sharpened tool should not rotate around its axis. In the event of even a slight turn, the sharpening must be done again.
The sharpened tool must be cooled naturally. After that, you should check its restored geometric parameters. You can use a template for this. It should be borne in mind that each cutting edge of the drill may differ from each other by no more than a tenth of a mm. At the same time, special attention should be paid to this parameter if the drills have a small diameter.
Video "Attachment for sharpening drills according to the drawing"
Drawing of a full-fledged device
Quite a simple way of making homemade sharpening equipment, which is practically no different from a factory product. It takes about 1.5-2 hours to assemble it according to the finished drawings.
To make do-it-yourself tools for sharpening drills, it is necessary to provide for the following consumables, equipment and tools:
- welding machine;
- electric drill;
- grinders;
- standard locksmith tool kit;
- a corner, the size of the shelves of which is 30x30, and its length is 100-150 mm;
- metal plates of different thickness (3-5 mm);
- studs or a piece of steel rods, the diameter of which is 10-12 mm;
- washers, screws, bolts and nuts of various sizes.
First of all, the bed is made, which will be the base in the grinding device. For this, a steel plate is used, onto which a steel bar (12 mm in diameter) is welded at an angle of 75 degrees. It will be the axis.
After that, a washer should be placed on the welded rod, which will be a thrust bearing. The angle that the bed rotates when sharpening the drill will be negligible, so there is no reason to use a standard ball bearing.
The stock where the sharpened tool will be located is made from a prepared corner. One side of the corner profile, which faces the side of the grindstone, must be grinded at a 60 degree angle. On the stock, according to the drawing, a bracket is welded, by means of which the fixation of the pivot assembly of the device will be performed. As a result of this, a structure will be produced, the corners of which, in the case of a parallel position of the bed and the bed, should be located to the surface of the abrasive stone in accordance with the angle of the drill to be sharpened.
The sharpening machine, which is shown in the drawing, has fixed angles of inclination, but for greater possibilities it is desirable to provide the ability to adjust the angles. In such cases, there will be more chances of using the fixture if it is necessary to restore tools with different sharpening angles, for example, if it is necessary to sharpen drills for metal, concrete, etc.
To create a more functional unit, you can use drawings of other structures that have the ability to adjust the angles:
Video "Fixture made according to the drawing"
Perhaps every professional craftsman uses drills for their work, which must be of high quality and debugged. Previously, drills were sharpened by hand, but now special machines for sharpening drills are very popular. The construction of such a machine is very simple. To create it, you need simple materials that are present in almost every home. Let's take a look at the step-by-step scheme for making a grinder for drills together.
Drill sharpening features
It is almost impossible to drill surfaces with a blunt drill. A sharp drill will solve the situation in a matter of minutes. Therefore, the drills must be sharpened at the correct angle and ready to go. The sharpening angles for different materials cannot be the same. The harder the material, the dumber the angle will be. For example, for plastic, a sharpening angle of 30-60 degrees is suitable, and for hardened steel, 130-140 degrees. If there are no great demands on the quality of drilling, you can choose a sharpening angle of 90-100 degrees.
It should be noted that the sharpening of drills can be done manually on abrasive discs or on sharpening machines. During manual sharpening, the drill must be held by the working part with the left hand and guided closer to the cutting part. The right hand should be holding the shank. Press the cutting edge of the drill bit against the side of the grinding wheel. After that, you must turn the drill with a careful movement of the right hand. In this case, the cutting edges must take the correct inclination and the required shape to the axis.
Sharpen the drill first on one side and then on the other. In this case, it is very important to control the sharpening of the cutting edge so that the point is centered. Otherwise, the drill will slide to the side during drilling. Also, do not put too much pressure on the drill, as this can lengthen the sharpening process. Manual sharpening is not a very convenient way, as it can lead to some defects. For example, if the cutting edges after sharpening the drill are not equal in length and are inclined at different angles to the axis of the drill, the middle of the transverse edge will shift from the axis of the drill, so it will rotate around the axis when working. Therefore, it is better to use a grinder for sharpening drills for this purpose.
When sharpening, you should pay attention to the initially set angle. It is on him that you should focus. After that, see what state the tool is in. If the damage is severe, a coarser emery can be used. If they are minor, a fine-grained emery disc is sufficient. For slight dullness and very minor damage, a finishing circle is suitable. The sharpening of the drill must be carried out sequentially - first, process its upper part, gently pressing it against the plane of the grinding wheel.
After finishing the back surface, you should have the correct taper when viewed from the side. After that, the cutting part of the drill is processed, and then the final finishing. The size of the jumper with correct processing of the drill should not be more than 0.4 millimeters for drills that have a diameter of 8 millimeters or less. If the drill is larger, the jumper size should be 1 - 1.5 millimeters. If you have never sharpened drills, we recommend that you practice on other objects. So you can quickly understand the technology of sharpening and get your hands on it.
Features of grinding machines
The drill sharpening machine is used for sharpening through and blind drills made of steel, cast iron and hard alloys. This equipment can be endowed with different functions, taking into account the type of sharpening, its dimensions, etc. When working with the machine, the angle can be changed from 90 to 140 degrees. Machine tools can be domestic and industrial. Household drill sharpeners are quite compact and are more suitable for home use. They will be able to sharpen small diameter drills.
Industrial machines are endowed with more power and are designed for sharpening drills that have a large diameter. The power is determined by the motor of the device. The drill grinder has a drill clamp and a grinding wheel that can handle more than 2000 tools. The design allows for precise drill placement so that the operator can control the sharpening process. The machine is powered by the mains. Generally, drill grinders are durable and easy to use.
It is worth noting that there are universal grinding machines and specialized ones. The first option can be used for a wide variety of cutting tools such as taps, milling cutters, chisels and countersinks. Specialized machines can handle only one type of tool, so they work more accurately. It is to such machines that the grinder for drills belongs. Moreover, for each option for sharpening drills, you need your own machine.
There are seven methods for sharpening drills: single-plane, profiled, compound-screw, elliptical, screw, double-plane and conical. On universal machines, you can use shaped, one-plane, elliptical and two-plane sharpening. As for the rest of the methods, this requires a specialized electric drill sharpening machine. If the drill has a diameter of more than 3 millimeters, a machine with an optical device must be used. If the drill has a diameter of less than 1 millimeter, a binocular microscope must be used. To sharpen solid drills, use a diamond wheel.
DIY drill sharpening machine
Unfortunately, the product market cannot always offer us what we really need, or the price of drill sharpening machines is too high. In this case, you can make the machine yourself. If you have a little experience with the technique, you will very easily cope with this task.
To do this, you will need a toggle switch, a grinding wheel, a plug, a powerful motor, a stand, some wires and an axle. To comply with the safety mode, it is recommended to place the machine in the case, and leave only the axle with the grinding wheel outside, which protrudes slightly. The device will operate on mains power. Moreover, you can connect it to a source and use it as a lightweight and portable machine.
Take care in advance about where your drill sharpener will stand. It is recommended to place it on a metal table. To do this, you need to place the electric motor on the tabletop using the fasteners, and then mark the locations of the holes for the bolts. Then remove the motor and drill four holes. Then put the motor back in and secure with the bolts.
The electric motor of a homemade drill sharpener is endowed with a shaft on which you need to put a granular disc. If the diameter of the shaft matches the diameter of the hole in the disc, it is necessary to put a washer, a disc, and then a washer on the shaft. After that, a fastening nut is placed, and the threads are pre-cut on the shaft. You can use a special attachment for the circle, in which the drill does not swing and is sharpened like a pencil. You can make it yourself or purchase it from the store.
If the shaft diameter is smaller than the hole in the stone, a sleeve must be added. A special hole and a bolt hole are made in it to be able to fix it on the shaft. Then it will not turn with the abrasive disc during operation. At the end of the sleeve, it is necessary to cut a right-hand thread in the direction of rotation of the disk in order to fix it using washers and nuts. After that, the sleeve is pushed onto the shaft.
If you find it difficult to decide on the choice of an electric motor, you can use the option from an old washing machine. This power will be most optimal for sharpening the required tools. Prepare the starter and wire sections in advance. You can use wires from old equipment. You, of course, can purchase new sections, but it is cheaper to use the tools at hand, which are in every home. Therefore, if the old wires are in good condition, they can be safely used.
The wire must be connected to the starter. It is important that the starter has a minimum of three normally open contacts (HP). Its winding must be connected to the phase line through two buttons connected in series. One with H3, which will be the off button, and the second with HP, which will be the power button. This button must be in parallel with the HP contact pair of the starter.
If you press the power button, voltage is applied to the winding and the starter circuits will close, one pair of which will bypass the button. If you release it, the voltage will not be removed from the starter. If we press the shutdown button, we will break the winding power circuit, and the starter will release the contacts, so the motor will stop.
The electric motor is safe even when open, it does not need additional protection, but it is recommended to make a metal box to protect the structure at least from dust. You can make a glass protective screen. This will keep your airways and eyes from getting dust from the circle. It is recommended to install a protective cover, which should cover the end of the abrasive disc by two thirds. It can be made from an old car camera. If the grinding wheel breaks, its parts will be in the casing and will not be able to cause harm.
Drill sharpening procedure on the machine
Most people make do-it-yourself drill grinders. In order not to waste extra money, you can easily build a grinder for drills yourself. Moreover, you can make it universal and, if necessary, sharpen any objects on it. When working, you must strictly follow the instructions for the drill sharpening machine and adhere to certain rules.
The drill bit consists of two small shoulders. It is imperative that they are the same. There is no need to compare them with high-precision measuring instruments, it is enough to estimate by eye. But the sameness must be mandatory. The place where the shoulders converge is called the center of the hole made, the radius of which is determined by the length of the larger shoulder. If they are the same, then the axis of rotation of the drill will coincide with the center of the hole.
If this is not the case, the diameter will be larger than the required one, and by the amount of the difference between the center point of the curved hole and the axis of the drill. This is where the drill breaks the hole. In addition, there is a heavy load on the tool and hands, which often leads to breakage of the drill. When you sharpen your drill, remember that it should cut through the material.
Before starting work, make sure that the rotating sanding disc is securely attached to the workbench. It is recommended to wear protective goggles. High-quality sharpening requires at least half an hour. Show accuracy and patience - then the tool will sharpen correctly and will work accordingly. To sharpen the drill correctly, you must know whether it is metal or wood.
During manufacturing, each product is sharpened perfectly, which is very difficult to repeat at home. Different brands of Pobedit differ in the method of obtaining the alloy and the chemical formula. Such nuances cannot be determined by eye, so the name of the material that suits the drill should be written on the packaging. Look closely at the side of the drill to see which side to sharpen.
For a bench-top machine, you may need sharpening wheels. They are also called emery, a sharpener or an abrasive wheel. Always start sharpening with a coarser abrasive. When a burr appears along the entire length of the tool, you can change to a finer abrasive. Select the bars in such a way that each next one can remove small defects of the previous one. Finally, you make the final finishing with the smallest polishing block.
Always maintain the specified sharpening angle. But for this you need to practice a little. Very often the blade of the tool moves to the side and moves. The sharpening disc should only rotate away from the blade. If it is the other way around, there is a risk of improper sharpening and serious injury.
Please note that drills cannot tolerate overheating. The fact is that in the process of sharpening, carbide plates sometimes crack and fall off. But this can be avoided. Try not to let the drill get too hot on the whetstone. Cool the drill with water regularly. But if the drill is already red hot, do not dip it in liquid! This can cause the plates to crack instantly. Let the product cool down a little on its own.
All twist drills have two cutting edges and back planes, which make the tip of the drill tapered. But if you take a washer with a smaller diameter than the drill and fit it into the hole in the washer, you can see that the cutting edges of the drill are touching the washers. In this case, the rear part of the surface lags behind the cutting edges.
When sharpening drills on a machine with your own hands, pay attention to the observance of safety rules. Remember that the job involves sharp blades that can easily injure you. We hope that our simple instructions will help you understand sharpening technology and build a quality device with your own hands. We wish you every success!
How to make a drill sharpener. Tool for manual sharpening of twist drills. Some time ago I accidentally stumbled upon (meaning the author of the article, see the source) on the network very useful video tutorials by V. Leontyev on manual sharpening of spiral drills:
But then the idea arose of how to make sharpening drills even simpler and more convenient. As a result of thoughts and experiments, the device described below appeared. First, it was required to modernize - to bring to mind the existing factory-Chinese (such as German) winepress. Because it was almost impossible to work with him using the techniques of V. Leontiev.
Factory-made electric grinder.
Flimsy standard support arm.
Unsuitable for work construction of the hand-hand.
Firstly, the bracket for attaching the handler to the disc casing is too flimsy, made of metal 2 mm thick. Bends with a little effort. Therefore, naturally, the sharpening angles are +/- kilometer! And the shape of the handguard absolutely does not allow you to make a normal clearance angle according to the method of V. Leontiev, since the drill when lowering the shank rests against the corner of the bracket. Moreover, the handcuff itself is installed BELOW the disc axis. That is, there is no way to get a normal clearance angle at all, unless you use the end surface of the disc.
The plane of the pad of the handguard is much lower than the axis of rotation of the disc.
New bracket for attaching the handyman.
For the normal bracket, I used a larger 4mm piece of metal and additional mounting screws. The old bracket was attached to two rivets, which had to be cut off. The new bracket is now much stiffer than before. Also, from pieces of a corner and a strip, a horizontal shelf of a handrail was welded with additional mounting holes. Its position can be adjusted within certain limits.
Comparison of the thickness of the metal in the new and old handcuffs.
The new bracket is fixed at 5 points.
Fixture details. Bracket. Assistant. Swivel plate ...
Further, the device itself was made directly. It is a swivel plate with a welded bushing, which can swing on an axis fixed in an eyelet, which in turn is attached to a handrail. Attached to the top of the swivel plate is a drill guide plate in which a triangular groove is selected.
Assembled fixture. The plate is in a horizontal position.
Assembled fixture.
Sharpening device.
At first, instead of this plate, a guide was tested in the form of a piece of an angle (as in the video by V. Leontiev), but this option is not at all suitable - the drill is difficult to fix normally (it tries to run away to the right when it touches the disc), especially since it is also required feed forward when forming a back corner. In general, the corner (it is in the photo) is completely unsuitable.
The device is in the lower position.
Working with the device resembles the movements of the author of video tutorials, only instead of a finger and an eye, the swing axis and the set angle of sharpening of the drill are used. It is much more convenient with the device to control the parallelism of the cutting edge of the drill to the disk. You just need to turn the insert down and press the drill into the groove so that the line of the cutting edge is parallel to the plane of the insert - the swing axis of the insert. This moment is shown in the photo.
Installing the drill on the hand-hand to the grindstone.
First, the edge itself is formed. When machining a clearance angle, it is necessary to lower the plate down at the same time and feed the drill itself forward towards the disc. It is necessary to try not to allow the drill to rotate around its axis when forming the edge and processing the clearance corner. I control the edge symmetry in the same way as in the video tutorials. By the way, instead of a swinging plate, you can install a piece of a corner with fixed angles - sharpening and rear - this is for sharpening carbide drills on the handlebar. It is only necessary to locally determine the required length of the sides of the corner to obtain the desired rear sharpening angle, since it also depends on the diameter of the disc and the location of the handguard relative to the axis of rotation of the disc.
Installing the drill into the guide groove of the plate.
Drill setting control. The cutting edge of the drill is parallel to the insert surface.
Guide groove configuration.
Tool for manual sharpening of twist drills.
Do you need drills to always be sharpened, and you won't find a special machine in the daytime with fire even in specialized stores? And make a do-it-yourself drill sharpener. You can easily cope with the assembly of a simple structure if you have at least a little experience in working with basic tools.
Homemade machine
The drill sharpener can be of great value in the household, as with the help of this device you can independently sharpen drills of any diameter and type. In addition to making a special unit, you will need an electric motor with a grindstone.
Main materials:
- Metal plate with holes - 1 pc .;
- Bolt or hairpin 70x15 mm long;
- Washer set;
- Corner - 30x30 or 40x40;
- Plates - 3-4 mm thick;
- Cotter pin - 30x1.5 mm;
- Clamps.
In addition to materials, you will need tools for their machining and joining, in particular, electric welding and a grinder.
Instruments:
- Electric welding.
- Drill.
- Bulgarian.
- Hammer with percussion tips.
- Special clips 2 pcs.
- Spanners.
- Pliers.
Manufacturing process:
1. Making the mounting plate
The mounting plate is made of a metal backing with holes about 3-4 mm thick. On one side, the part is cut by 3 centimeters, while maintaining the finished hole during cutting. The cut off part will be needed to make the next part of the sharpening device, and a large element for the lining when placing the product on the table.
2. Corner for fixing the drill
The element is intended for fixing the drill during sharpening. It is made by cutting off a part of a regular corner 30x30 or 40x40. The total length varies between 60-90 mm, while the outer part is cut at an angle of 60 degrees to give the sharpened plane the desired level.
3. Fastening for the fixing angle
The cut-off part with a hole from the plate is connected to another metal plate, while the elements are superimposed on each other and electrically welded to the corner. For welding, an assembly cutout should be cut out on the plates in order to fit the parts back to back and weld.
In the connected parts, a hole is drilled along the diameter of the bolt or stud, and the parts themselves are carefully scalded on all sides to give rigidity.
4. Welding the bolt
A bolt or stud is used to fix the angle. The element is welded at a 75 degree angle to the base plate. During scalding, the bottom plane should be taken into account, if necessary, remove the slag in order to prevent the product from skewing.
5. Fastening the washer to the bolt
The washer is installed on the bolt at a level of 25 mm from the upper extreme part. The approximate diameter is 30 mm. The element is welded using electric welding in the desired design position, observing all levels along the plane.
6. Hole in the hairpin
If there is no hole for the installation of the cotter pin in the bolt (hairpin), it is required to make it using a drill and drill of the required diameter. Due to this technical element, the fixing angle will be fastened. The diameter can be different, but the main condition is a reliable fixation.
7. Drill stop
It is made from a metal bar and a special vise clamp. The bar is welded to the fixing angle from the bottom. The clamping mechanism is mounted on a bar, while a special bowl-stop for the drill should be equipped on the device from the corner.
The system is mounted on a grinding table and fixed with additional clamps.
Video: how to make a drill sharpener.
Drill sharpening machine
This method is available to anyone. To do this, you need a drill. Perhaps not immediately from the store counter, but already morally outdated and not used by you. She will act as a motor.
It must be fixed on the bed, insert a sleeve or a ready-to-install grinding wheel or a universal fine-grained disc into the chuck. Everything. Turning on the drill, you get a rotating abrasive, which is a pleasure to sharpen the drill.
A very simple sharpening solution. However, do not forget about the tools for sharpening the drill, which fixes the sharpened element relative to the sharpener.
To improve the quality of their work, craftsmen often make a machine for sharpening drills with their own hands. When using drills, you need to pay attention to their sharpness and the absence of damage - the quality of drilling depends on this. Previously, sharpening was done by hand, but today you can buy a special machine or make it on your own according to individual parameters.
Features of the drilling process that affect the sharpness of drills
Drilling is ubiquitous in home and industrial use. In this process, the cutting edges create depressions in the surface as they rotate. Their power is enough to act on most materials, and even metal. The spiral channel removes waste and dust, so drilling can be done without stopping. But these particles wear off the drill device, causing it to wear out. Periodic sharpening can prevent this.
The wear of the drill directly depends on the duration of its use.
The fastest damage occurs when working with metal and wood. The problem can be noticed when a specific squeaky sound is detected. As a result, not only the quality of drilling deteriorates, but also the heating of the tool increases, which can disable it. If the drill bit is heavily worn, the deterioration in sharpness can be felt even by touching it.
Sharpening types:
- Single-plane - used for large drills. This is a strong sharpening that can crush material, so you need to be careful. The part must be moved on a circular surface without shifting its position in order not to damage the surface.
- Conical - used for large drills. They must be held with both hands, as it can slip off when applied to the part.
- Lapping is the final stage, which evens out single irregularities and polishes the surface.
The most commonly used spiral alloy drills with reinforcing solders. There are also flat models for large holes. Regardless of their parameters and diameter, they require sharpening to prevent wear.
What is needed to assemble a drill sharpening machine?
Not only the grinding is responsible for the cutting ability of the drill, but also the blade angle - the smaller it is, the better the drilling. The optimal angle is 90 °, 100 ° is required for wood, and 30 ° is suitable for plastic. Sharpening improves the angle of the cutting edge and centers it. This is done with an emery coating, which is also used in specialized equipment or for manual sharpening. The machines can be industrial or domestic, which determines their size and power. Many craftsmen create their own sharpening equipment - this is a cheap solution, often as good as a production model.
It is best performed on special machines. The modern market offers a large selection of such devices, but their parameters do not always meet expectations, or the cost turns out to be too high. In this case, you can make a machine on your own, this requires only initial technical skills. Despite the lower power of the home machine, it has a number of advantages over industrial devices:
- use of a single-phase flow of electricity at 220V;
- individual performance tuning;
- equipment mobility when installing limited functionality;
- high performance for the required type of drills;
- ease of repair and low assembly costs.
The correct approach to creating a machine tool will allow you to get an effective sharpening device. To assemble it, you need a toggle switch, a plug, a grinding wheel, a sufficiently strong motor, a set of wires, a stand and an axle. It is important to observe safety precautions, therefore it is better to cover the machine in a protective case, leaving only the turning circle and the axis visible. For operation, the device uses both a constant power supply network and a battery - for greater mobility.
Assembly of parts into a single apparatus and arrangement of safety elements
It is necessary to provide a surface for fixing the machine. For this, a metal table is suitable, on which marks are made for bolts. Next, you need to take a granular disc, which is attached to the electric motor of the future machine. If the diameters of the shaft and disc do not match, they must be aligned with the tools at hand. In case of coincidence, the washer is placed on the shaft, after which the disk and, again, the washer. A thread must first be made on the shaft. Next, a fastening nut is installed, and an anti-swing nozzle is put on the circle.
You can add a bushing if the shaft has a smaller diameter than a stone. A hole is made in it, with which it is attached to the shaft, since the bushing will improve fixation and will rotate with the disc. If you cannot find the correct motor, you can use the motor from the washing machine. Wires can also be installed from it if they have three contacts in a suitable state. Next, the winding is connected to the phase line of two buttons, which are responsible for turning the machine on and off. Thus, the device will be triggered by simple button commands.
The electric motor is not dangerous when open, but it should be protected. The motor can be hidden in a metal case so that dust and moisture do not accumulate in it. Since a lot of chips are generated when sharpening drills, this is a hazard. You need to build a protective glass screen that will protect your eyes. Of course, glasses can be used, but metal particles can fly off into the face. It is also advisable to make a protective cover. For this, a tire is suitable, part of which will cover the grinding disc by a third.
We sharpen parts on a homemade machine
If it is not possible to get an electric motor, you can get by with a simple drill. It is not necessary to buy a new device, the old device in which the engine is functioning will do. To create a machine, it must be fixed to the surface, and a universal disk (can be replaced with a grinding wheel) or a sleeve must be installed in the chuck. When the drill is turned on, it will be suitable for working on drills. To achieve the best efficiency, you need to approach the sharpening process correctly. Since drills have two threads, it is important to maintain the same dimensions when machining them so that the axis of rotation matches the center of the drill.
Before you start sharpening, you need to check the reliability of the fastening of the disc and protective elements. It will take from half an hour for a quality result. Each drill material has its own sharpening characteristics and direction of rotation, which must be studied before work. A sharpener (abrasive disc or emery) of the coarsest format is installed in a desktop machine. This will compensate for major damage. After that, you need to go to a fine abrasive, which will grind the surface. It is important to stick to one sharpening angle, although the drill will slide out in the process. If this is missed, there is a risk of dismounting and injury.
It is important to avoid overheating of the drills. This destroys their plates, so you need to periodically lower them in water (this cannot be done if the drill is already hot). Otherwise, simple skill is enough for sharpening drills. Compliance with the procedure and safety rules will allow you to quickly sharpen drills on a homemade machine and do without expensive equipment.