Calathea small leaves. Calathea at home

Calathea flower is one of the brightest representatives of tropical plants that can be grown indoors. The culture of the Marantaceae family is distinguished by bright and unusual leaf patterns. In Brazil, the homeland of calathea, the plant is used to create wrapping paper. Foliage is used to make gift pots and baskets. Caring for a plant is not easy, it is a real challenge for an advanced grower. The main thing is to study all the features and requirements of a whimsical exotic flower.

Calathea - exotic plant from the tropics.

There are over 130 plant species. Several varieties are grown indoors.

"Lancefolia"

Calathea "Lansifolia".

Calathea insignis is also known as "wonderful" calathea. Enjoys special popularity. The foliage of the culture is a wavy elongated shape. There are representatives with light green and dark small spots. Bottom part leaves are painted in a crimson hue.

"Saffron"

Calathea "Saffron" ("Crocat").

Calathea crocata is distinguished by dark leaves and pronounced scarlet flowers on long stems. The reverse side of the leaves of Calathea "Crocats", as a rule, is purple in color. One of the few flowering representatives. Calathea "Saffron" does not need additional lighting.

"Sanderina"

Calathea "Sanderina".

Calathea ornata sanderiana has wide dark leaves with white stripes.

"Mix"

Calathea mix is ​​a bright representative of the culture with light patterns on a gray background of leaves.

"Dottie"

Calathea Dottie is very capricious and demanding. The plant has an original and spectacular leaf structure. The subspecies is often confused with arrowroot.

Home care

Requirements for the microclimate of the room

For calathea, you need to create ideal conditions:

1. In a closed room, the temperature should be about +22 degrees.
2. Humidity ranging from 50 to 70%.
3. In winter, the air should be warmed up to + 16 degrees.
4. Do not allow sudden changes and temperature fluctuations. This can cause the plant to wilt.
5. Drafts or an open window next to the flower will destroy the calathea.

Optimum lighting

Despite the fact that Calathea belongs to shade-tolerant plants, it is not recommended to keep it in a dark place. Insufficient lighting can cause fading of the leaves, and the culture will stop its development. Direct sunlight is also detrimental to the Calathea plant. The optimal place for the location of the flowerpot is partial shade.

Watering and spraying

Water high in calcium and magnesium is detrimental to calathea. For good plant growth, you can:

Watering is desirable to carry out a liquid not lower than room temperature. In summer, the plant needs frequent soil moisture. In winter - it is necessary to reduce the amount of watering. If water collects on the tray under the pot, you need to remove it. Otherwise, the root system will suffer.

Humidity

It is extremely difficult to provide proper care for calathea at home without auxiliary means. The plant prefers a high level of air humidity - about 90%. Therefore, it is necessary to buy a bottle garden (florarium), an aquarium or a glass terrarium.

On the windowsill, plants quickly lose moisture, so they must be sprayed daily with a spray bottle, periodically wiped with a damp washcloth.

When spraying water, extreme caution must be exercised, the main thing is to moisten the area next to the plant. The calathea should be covered with at least a few drops of water.

If you do not follow the rules, dark marks may appear on the leaves. Velvet representatives of tropical calathea can be created with the help of a flower pot stand:

1. It is necessary to buy gravel and mossy plants.
2. It is also acceptable to use porous expanded clay (building material).
3. Pour the material into the tray and pour some water.
4. The main rule is that the bottom of the flower pot should not come into contact with the liquid.

Thus, it is possible to provide the necessary high humidity environment for the plant.

top dressing

Fertilizers for decorative calathea can be applied no more than once every two weeks. Separate subspecies, for example "Saffron Calathea" can be fed with complex compounds for indoor crops. The exotic representative has a high sensitivity to organic and mineral components. Therefore, excessive use of various stimulants can harm calathea.

Fertilizing calathea with fertilizers.

Transfer

Before reaching the age of three, the plant should be transplanted annually in early spring. In the future, to maintain growth, you can carry out the procedure every two years.

To ensure air access and optimal drainage of water, you will need drainage from the flower pot. It is best to use crushed stone. Styrofoam with sand will do.

The container should be chosen relatively shallow and wide. You can not carefully ram the ground after planting. This can lead to root rot. The main part of the roots should be placed in the middle layer of the earth. The space between the rhizome and the drainage should be about two centimeters.

When transplanting an acquired plant, it is desirable to remove the soil from the roots intended for transportation. It is undesirable to apply force in this case, so as not to damage the autonomic organ. It is necessary to straighten the roots and plant the calathea in the soil treated with steam. It is not recommended to place the neck of the roots deep.

If the calathea has thickened side shoots (stolons), the culture does not require frequent watering. A developed root system provides the plant with a sufficient supply of nutrients and moisture. If you cut off such processes, the rhizome may suffer.

After planting, you can spray a working solution of the Zircon fertilizer on the calathea (four drops per liter of water are enough). Polycarbonate (a heat-resistant building material) can be used to guarantee the survival of the plant. Thus, greenhouse conditions can be created.

It is necessary to observe moderate soil moisture after transplantation. Therefore, you need to water the flower only after a few days, after the topsoil has dried. The condition of the plant should be monitored regularly - lack of moisture leads to twisting of the leaves.

Cultivation and care in the open field

Breeding a tropical plant in open areas is extremely risky. The culture prefers high humidity and does not tolerate drafts. Keeping a heat-loving plant in unsuitable climatic conditions will lead to the death of Calathea. You can take out a flowerpot in the summer outdoor terrace. In this case, extreme caution should be observed - a sharp decrease or temperature drop will cause a disease of the root system. It is almost impossible to reanimate the plant.

Cultivation Basics

Soil for calathea can be prepared independently or purchased ready-made mixture. For the plant, the soil intended for the houseplant azalea is suitable.

It is very easy to make a complex with your own hands. You will need in equal parts:

• leaf humus;
• peat briquettes;
• fertile land;
• sand.

You can use a soil substitute - hydroponics (growing in haystacks, expanded clay, crushed stone, vermiculite).

For Calathea, you can purchase a reliable device with automatic feeding water. Comfort pot or planter:

• help save time;
• ensure regular soil moisture;
• will become an interior decoration (created a large number of flowerpots various forms and styles).

Using the autopilot is very easy. Enough:

1. Choose a container designed specifically for tropical crops.
2. Plant a plant.
3. Fill the reservoir with water.

The built-in liquid supply indicator will indicate the need to replenish the container. It is advisable to use filtered water. Depending on the model and moisture consumption, the average water supply is calculated for 3 months.

You can learn the features of growing calathea at home from the video:

Typical problems and diseases

Lack of proper care leads to various problems:

1. Drafts or wind (when kept in an open area) can cause leaf lethargy and further curling.
2. Reduced air humidity is the cause of darkening and the formation of dry spots on the plant.
3. Yellowness occurs due to various factors - low temperature, dry air, abuse of top dressing, excessive watering or a dried earthen clod.
4. Stretching of leaves occurs due to lack of sunlight. You need to change the location of the flowerpot. You will need support to keep the stems.
5. The reasons for the appearance of a pronounced mottled foliage surface can be recognized by the shade of the markings. Brown spots are usually caused by excessive water spraying. Yellow - burns from direct sunlight.

How to care for calathea at home if the plant is affected by the disease?

Calathea disease.

Proper care can be provided based on the symptoms of infection:

1. A film in the form of soot on the upper part of the leaves and shoots appears at the site of secretions of various insects - aphids, scale insects. Sooty fungus can disrupt the process of photosynthesis, as the plant has a dysfunction of tissue respiration. Fighting the fungus is very simple - just wash off the affected areas with soapy water.
2. A thin cobweb on the lower leaves indicates the appearance spider mite. The pest feeds on the juice of the leaves, which leads to their yellowing and falling off. It is very difficult to see the most dangerous small insect for all indoor crops. It should be remembered that the appearance of an arthropod indicates dry and warm air in the room. As a preventive measure, you can moisten the environment and periodically ventilate the room. Treat the affected plant with strong insecticides.
3. The fading and dryness of the leaves causes a scab. Hemiptera insects with a protective shell appear on the culture, which suck the vital juice from the plant. You can fight the pest with laundry soap or two-component preparations.
4. The combination of hot air with low humidity (less than 45%) leads to the appearance of thrips. White dots from fringe-winged colonies are clearly visible on the upper side of the leaf. After a while, the leaves will turn brown. Insects must be exterminated immediately. Foliage needs to be processed chemical preparation. Fertilizer should be applied to the soil after a week.

Features of flowering

Dissolve inflorescences only certain varieties of culture. Calathea flowers have a different color:

• orange red;
• lactic;
• bright yellow;
• Violet.

Despite the fact that most representatives of the Maranth family do not have odorous foliage and flowers, some types of calathea, for example, Saffron calathea, can cause allergic rhinitis. There have been cases when growing calathea in a room led to difficulty breathing and heart palpitations. You can determine individual intolerance with the help of allergic tests.

reproduction

There are several ways to grow a plant.

Division

The most common breeding method tropical plant. It is recommended to carefully divide the rhizome directly during the transplantation of the crop. The temperature in the room should be at least + 23 degrees.

Division of the rhizome of Calathea.

The diameter of the flowerpot for young representatives of Calathea must be chosen within 7-9 cm. For cultivation, peat, greenhouse soil and sand should be taken in equal proportions.

After rooting, you can change the container to a larger pot. At the next transplant, the amount of sand should be doubled. Conditions for growing kalats include:

1. Mandatory stay in a warm room - not lower than + 21 degrees.
2. Constant watering and spraying water.
3. Fertilizer - no more than once a month.
4. A year later, you can transplant the calathea and care for it according to the requirements for an adult tropical representative.

Calathea from seeds

A very inefficient way to propagate calathea. Practically not used due to the low percentage of seedling germination.

For cultivation, you will need a mixture of sheet soil and sand. The temperature during planting should be about +24 degrees. If the planting is successful and sprouts appear, you can dive seedlings into separate containers with a diameter of about 8 cm. In the future, you can take care of the sprouts obtained from dividing the calathea.

cuttings

The above-ground stem must be carefully separated from the calathea and placed in a small container with moistened soil. It is advisable to use a plastic film to create a greenhouse effect.

Planting material must be detached in such a way that both the apical parts of the shoots remain on the mother culture and on the handle for further growth. When the stem takes root, you can remove the film.

No flowering

If in April and July the calathea does not open buds, you need to check:

1. Belonging varieties to flowering plants.
2. Compliance with high humidity and temperature conditions.
3. Sufficient amount of sunlight. You can use lamps daylight to improve cultural development.
4. Compliance of the soil with the requirements of the flower. You can change the soil to slightly acidic, intended for arrowroot.

How to choose an ornamental plant

Despite the high exoticism of the tropical representative, most stores sell various varieties calatheas in the form of grown flowers. The price is calculated individually for each subspecies, depending on the variety, size and container:

1. Calathea "Varshevichi" - 2250 rubles.
2. Calathea "Zebrina" - 2250 rubles.
3. Calathea "Mix" - 740 rubles.
4. Calathea "Saffron" - 1850 rubles.
5. Calathea "Lansifolia" - 1300 rubles.

On sale and auctions you can buy cheaper options.

Calathea is one of the most gentle representatives of the flora. Culture needs careful and proper care. Despite the high demands, a decorative flower of an unusual shape and coloring will help you plunge into the amazing world of the exotic.

Calathea is a houseplant highly valued by gardeners for its attractive leaves and flowers. From its species, you can make a whole collection. Although it is quite difficult for a beginner to grow such exotic at home, experienced growers boldly acquire calatheas, despite the possible difficulties of care. They can be understood by looking at this plant in bloom. Such unusual beauty atones for the inconvenience and exactingness of the flower.

Description of the species

Calathea is a perennial herbaceous plant native to the Amazon River Valley in South America. In the maranth family, this is the most numerous genus. Currently, about 130 species of kalats are known, not counting hybrids bred by breeding.. From other types of plants belonging to this family, known for the decorativeness of the leaves of all its representatives, Calathea compares favorably with the presence of flowers.

Calathea leaves of different species are very different

The name of the species comes from the Greek calathos - basket. Native Americans still weave baskets from calathea leaves. But this is not their only use. For example, in Brazil they wrap freshly caught fish so that it does not spoil longer, and in Colombia they make bags and hats.

The plant is low (65-75 cm), so it is well suited for growing at home. As a houseplant, calathea is valued mainly for the appearance of its leaves. They are large (25–30 cm long), strongly elongated, oval in shape. In most species, the leaves have petioles, although lanceolate variants are also found. The leaves are collected in rosettes. Their number varies: for some kalats with the most beautiful flowers, one leaf in a rosette is the norm.

Leaves just meet Green colour, but in most kalats they are covered with patterns of randomly located spots and stripes of almost white, silver, yellow, light orange, pink, reddish or brick color.

Why does a flower raise leaves in the evening and lower them in the morning

A characteristic feature of Calathea is that its leaves always reach for the sun's rays. Therefore, if you do not want your plant to grow crooked in a pot, you need to turn it from time to time. In the evenings, the leaves rise almost vertically upward, opening the underside, and fall back in the morning. The raised leaves are very reminiscent of hands folded for prayer. For this feature, Calathea received its second name - "prayer flower". The first, the "crown of the Incas", is associated with the area of ​​\u200b\u200bits distribution and the appearance of flowers. A lot of wild species of calathea were discovered in Peru.

During the day, looking closely, you can see that the leaves of the calathea tremble finely.

Leaves live for about a year, then die off and are replaced by new rosettes. Shoots are almost impossible to see - they are almost completely located underground, forming rhizomes. Only a vertical process 2–3 cm long emerges on the surface, on which a rosette of leaves is formed.

How the "Crown of the Incas" blooms

With proper care, calathea blooms from late May to mid-August. Its inflorescences resemble an ear, assembled from three smaller spikelets. They are formed on the tops of the shoots or in the axils of the leaves.

The color of the flowers is very diverse: they can be white, yellow, orange, purple and more.

The structure of flowers in Calathea is very unusual, so their pollination in nature looks pretty funny. A bee, descending on a flower, tries to reach the nectar with its proboscis, but this is impossible, since there is an obstacle that is very similar in shape to a cocked gun. When the insect pushes it, this outgrowth sharply straightens, clapping on the bee. As a result, the pollen of this plant is transferred to it. At the same time, the bee shudders violently, thus shaking off the pollen of another flower.

Calathea roots are covered with frequent small spherical outgrowths, which botanists call stolons. It is in them that the plant holds in reserve water and essential nutrients.

It has been scientifically proven that calathea has a positive effect on the air in the room. Its leaves intensively absorb and destroy formaldehydes, which cause depression, apathy and chronic fatigue. Also, these substances are a common cause of allergic reactions. And in the conditions of large cities, where the level of formaldehyde in the air regularly rises due to exhaust gases, they can provoke the development of tumors, including malignant ones.

Video: capricious sissy calathea

Popular varieties

Most often in flower shops you can buy the following types of kalats. Among them there are natural species, and hybrids created by breeders.

Calathea Bahema

The plant is low, about 35 cm. The leaves are lanceolate, without petiole, not too narrow (7–8) cm and long (15–20 cm), sharply tapering towards the top. The upper side of the leaf plate is light green with a noticeable silvery sheen, the lower side is lime-colored. A pattern of dark green spots running along the central vein is characteristic. The flowers are quite large (5–6 cm) and are located on short peduncles.

Main decorative feature calatheas Bachem - silver tint of leaves

Calathea Varshevich

The leaves of this species are dark green, and purple below, with petioles, velvety to the touch. On top of the leaves, a pattern of spots and stripes of a lighter shade, running along the central vein. The plant blooms with white, cream or pinkish flowers.

Calathea Varshevich has very beautiful leaves and flowers

Calathea Veitch

Sometimes it is mistakenly called "calathea Vicha". This is one of the tallest representatives of the species (75–90 cm). The leaves are large, 25–30 cm long and 12–15 cm wide. The color of the outer surface of the leaf is dark green, with a glossy sheen and a pattern of yellowish-green stripes. From below, they look no less impressive - light green, with a reddish tint and a pattern of white and yellow stripes. Flowers are located on very long (18–22 cm) peduncles.

Calathea Veitch even without flowers looks very impressive

Wonderful, or lanceolate (lancefolia)

The leaves of this calathea are long (25 cm), but narrow (3–5 cm), with a slightly wavy edge. From above they are light green, with a geometrically correct pattern of dark green ovals. different sizes, and below ink-violet.

A characteristic feature of the wonderful calathea is the waviness along the entire edge of the leaf plate

Striped (zebrina)

The leaves of the zebra-shaped calathea are long (30–35 cm) and wide (15–20 cm), without petioles. Above - bright green, with a pattern of stripes resembling feathers, below - reddish-green. The inflorescences are almost round or ovoid in shape, the peduncles are short, the flowers are white or pale purple.

Of all the calatheas, the zebra-shaped one is perhaps best suited to its name.

Leopard

The height of this plant is about 40 cm. The leaves are without petioles, short (9–12 cm) and narrow (2–4 cm). The upper part of the leaf plate is light green, with spots in the form of ellipses that diverge from the central vein. The flowers are bright yellow.

Calathea leopard blooms very beautifully with yellow flowers

Calathea Litze

This is a medium-sized plant (55–60 cm). Leaves on petioles, about 15 cm long and 6–8 cm wide, slightly wavy along the entire edge. Above, they are bright green, with a glossy, almost metallic sheen and wide stripes of a darker shade, and reddish-purple below. The flowers are snow-white.

The leaves of Calathea Litze are not the most attractive, but the white flowers look amazing

Calathea Makoya

The plant is low (40–50 cm). The leaves are long and wide (respectively 15–20 cm and 10–12 cm). On top of the bright green plate is a pattern of dark green stripes radiating from the central vein and reddish spots. The underside of the leaves are pale green, almost transparent.

Calathea Makoya has a spectacular leaf color

colorized

The leaves of this calathea are about 20 cm long. They are dark green above, the central vein is always lighter, as is the continuous strip along the entire edge of the leaf plate.

The pattern on the leaves of Calathea painted resembles brush strokes

Decorated (sanderiana)

This is a short plant (25–30 cm). The leaves are on long (8–12 cm) petioles, 17–20 cm long and 7–8 cm wide, lime-colored, with a pattern of silvery and pinkish stripes. They are purplish purple underneath. Inflorescences 7–8 cm long, white or lilac-violet on a very long (25–30 cm) peduncle.

Unlike other kalats, the decorated one has very long peduncles.

Saffron (crocat)

The leaves of this most popular flower are dark green above, and brown-brown on the underside. The flowers are yellow-orange, the color of saffron, hence the name. Unlike other species, saffron calathea blooms in winter (in January or February).

Calathea saffron stands out among other varieties with beautiful bright colors

Video: saffron calathea care

Calathea Rufibarba

The name literally means "red-bearded". It is associated with the presence of a light yellow-orange down on the underside of the leaf plate and petioles. The leaves themselves of this calathea are slightly wavy along the edge, bright green, without a pattern. Flowers are yellow or orange.

Calathea rufibarba differs from other species in the presence of a light "fluff" on the leaves

Calathea Burle Marx, or "Blue Ice"

The leaves are light green, with a noticeable bluish tint. The flowers are snow white, with a slight hint of blue.

Calathea "Blue Ice" blooms with amazing bluish flowers

Calathea Lubbers

Unlike most other calatheas, which have a more or less symmetrical pattern on the leaves, Lubbers' calathea is lemon and pale yellow chaotically arranged spots on a bright green leaf. The leaves themselves are an almost regular ellipse, tapering towards the top. They are located on long petioles. Leaves are slightly lighter below than above.

Bright lemon spots on the leaves of Calathea Lubbers look very festive.

Mosaic (network)

The leaves of this type of calathea are of a very light green hue, appear translucent in the light. Veins of bright green or lime color divide them into small quadrangles. This explains the name - the leaves seem to be made up of pieces of glass of different shades.

The leaves of Calathea mosaic seem to be assembled from thousands of tiny fragments of translucent glass

Pink-colored (roseopykta), or "Medallion"

It is a showy flower about 35–40 cm tall. From the bottom, the leaf plate is inky purple, from above it is dark green with wide veins of various shades (bright green, light green, silvery, pinkish), diverging from the central vein. Along the edge of the sheet there is a narrow almost white border.

It's hard to believe that pink-colored calathea is a creation of nature, and not a figment of the artist's imagination

Transplanting a plant after purchase and as it grows

The optimal time for a calathea transplant is early spring. This procedure is vital for the plant. But do not transplant calathea at the wrong time. Therefore, new items in your collection should be bought at the end of winter or at the beginning of spring. Plants aged 1 to 3 years are transplanted annually, then every 2-3 years (depending on the condition of the flower).

Calathea roots release specific toxins into the soil, which can cause its death. For the same reason, it is recommended to immediately transplant a plant purchased in a store, because you do not know for sure its age and how long it has been in this pot.

Before you start transplanting, you need to take care of suitable soil and a pot. Purchase a special potting mix designed for plants from the arrowroot family. If not, suitable soil for growing azaleas or rhododendrons. Experienced flower growers prefer to prepare the soil on their own, mixing fertile soil from their own garden, humus, peat and coarse river sand in a ratio of 2: 1: 1: 1. Another option is to mix earth, humus and peat in equal proportions. A prerequisite is a slightly acidic or neutral indicator of the acid-base balance. At the same time, only wood ash can deoxidize the soil.

It is better to pre-sterilize the soil by calcining it in the oven, pouring it with boiling water or holding it in a sieve over steam for 15 minutes.

The pot for calathea should be low, but wide and resemble a bowl in shape.. This is due to the fact that the root system comes very close to the surface. As for the material, it is better to give preference to unglazed ceramics. This will ensure the access of oxygen to the roots in the required volume.

The most suitable pot for calathea looks like a basin or bowl

The transfer takes place as follows:

1. In preparation for transplanting, water the plant abundantly for 1–1.5 hours. So it will be much easier to remove it from the old pot.
2. Before filling the pot with soil, take care of drainage. The thickness of the layer must be at least a quarter of the height of the container. Expanded clay, river pebbles, small gravel, brick chips, small ceramic shards and even eggshells can be used as drainage. It is useful to powder the drainage thin layer powdered charcoal or activated charcoal. This is an additional prevention of root rot.
   

   Good drainage is essential for aerating calathea roots.

3. Drainage can be covered with soil. The thickness of the layer should not exceed 2–3 cm. It is not necessary to compact it.
   

   Pour the soil into the pot a little and do not tamp

4. Carefully remove the calathea from the old pot so as not to damage the roots. No need to try to pull out one plant - take out the whole earthen ball.
   

   Turn the plant pot on its side and carefully remove the earthen ball.

5. Rinse the roots under a stream of cool water and carefully inspect. All roots with traces of rot, mold and other damage must be cut with a sharp knife strictly perpendicular. The cut sites are disinfected with a pink solution of potassium permanganate and covered with crushed charcoal or sifted wood ash. Also cut off any old dry leaves.
6. Place the plant on the soil. Straighten the roots carefully. Be sure to hold the calathea with your hand, constantly making sure that the growing point is above the surface of the substrate and does not move away from the center of the pot.
   

   Growth point must be above the ground

7. The soil is poured into the pot carefully, in small portions, stopping when 1.5–2 cm remains to the upper edge of the pot. It is slightly crushed, but not rammed. The roots left without air are the imminent death of the calathea.
   

   Also keep in mind that after the first watering, the soil will settle a little.

8. Then the transplanted calathea is watered abundantly and cleaned for 2-3 days in a cool place, protected from direct sunlight. This is necessary to minimize the consequences of the transplant.
   

   The next time the transplanted plant is watered no earlier than after 8–10 days.

Essential care at home

The natural conditions in which calathea feels best are quite problematic to create at home. However, a significant plus that made all plants of the arrowroot family extremely popular for home floriculture is the absence of a dormant period. Once created conditions, they do not have to be changed regularly.

Calatheas feel great next to any other indoor plants. Moreover, other flowers maintain the vital humidity of the air for this tropical sissy.

Lighting

Calatheas do not like the bright hot sun at all. It can cause burns on the leaves in the form of light spots, fading of bright colors and reduction of the leaf plate. This is easily explained if we remember what tropical forests look like, in which the upper branches of tall trees, intertwined, form a canopy that is almost impenetrable to the rays. These plants need diffused light.. Therefore, if you grow them on a windowsill that receives direct sunlight, calatheas must be shaded during the daytime (from 11:00 to 15:00).

The most suitable place for a calathea is the windowsill of a window facing east, southeast or west.

Another option - artificial lighting. Calatheas grow well under fluorescent lights if they are exposed to light for 14 to 18 hours a day. The same lamps must be turned on from November to March, when daylight hours are not so long.

Temperature regime

During the period of active growth and flowering (from early March to late August), the optimum temperature for calathea is 24–28º. In winter, the temperature should be maintained at 17–22º. If it drops to 15º, the plant will inevitably die.

Calathea really does not like sudden changes in temperature, cold drafts and changing places. Therefore, determine a suitable place for the flower with a constant temperature in advance. Any deviations lead to the fact that the leaves rot and wither.

Air humidity

High air humidity (at the level of 90–95%) is one of the necessary conditions for the normal development and regular flowering of calathea. Therefore, daily spraying is extremely important for a flower. In winter, when the air in the room becomes drier due to radiators, the calathea is sprayed twice a day. At the same time, the leaves should not be allowed to hang from the windowsill, almost touching the batteries.

Choose a sprayer that produces the smallest droplets. Excessively large, falling on the leaves, provoke the development of dark spots and rot.

To increase humidity, place an air humidifier in the room, and place a container with water, wet moss, peat, expanded clay, sand or pebbles next to the calathea. In this case, it is forbidden to pour water directly into the pot tray. Another care option is to hermetically close the plants with plastic bags or glass caps at night.

Waterlogging and overdrying is detrimental for kalats. In both cases, the plant simply folds and sheds its leaves.

If the leaves are leathery and dense, they can be wiped regularly with a damp sponge. In this case, as well as for spraying, use warm water (25-27ºС).

How to water

Calathea needs abundant watering, but the plant should not be flooded either. Calathea Makoya especially suffers from waterlogging. Water only when the top layer of soil is dry. Calathea is watered at intervals of 3–4 days (more often in summer), spending about 0.5–0.7 liters of water per adult plant.

For irrigation use warm water settled for 2–3 days (25–27ºС). It should never be hard, too chlorinated or high in fluoride. To soften the water, dip peat tightly tied into a cotton or linen cloth into a container. A couple of handfuls is enough. Ideally, melt or rain water should be used. Too cold liquid leads to the rapid development of root rot.

In winter, watering is reduced by about half, and the interval between two procedures is increased to 4–5 days.

The frequency of watering is directly related to the level of humidity. If the humidity exceeds 75-80%, one watering every 3-4 days is enough, if it is low (35-40%), you need to water more often.

Remember that frequent watering does not compensate for dry air.

When and how to feed

Calathea needs to be fed only during the period of intensive growth and flowering (from March to September). Once every 12–15 days, fertilizer for arrowroot or universal flower fertilizer for ornamental leafy crops is applied to the soil.

Fertilizers intended for ornamental leafy indoor plants are suitable for Calathea.

It is important not to overdo it with fertilizers. Therefore, carefully study the instructions and follow the manufacturer's instructions. Calathea reacts especially negatively to excessive amounts of nitrogen and calcium.

The optimal time for top dressing is 10-15 minutes after watering, when moisture is completely absorbed into the soil. It is strongly not recommended to fertilize overdried soil.

In winter, if you are satisfied with the condition of the plant, you can refuse to feed or carry it out every 1.5 months.

Video: how to properly care for calathea

How to save a flower from pests

Despite the fact that the calathea is rather capricious, it relatively rarely suffers from diseases and pests, if the proper conditions are created for it. The most common problems are powdery mildew, spider mites, scale insects and whiteflies.

Mealybug

What is called powdery mildew is actually the result of a pest called the mealybug. They nest in whole colonies under the leaves. You can observe small pellets, as if from dirty cotton wool, dotting the leaves, their petioles and peduncles. The worms suck the juice from the plants. As a result, the more Calathea suffers, the more its growth is inhibited, the leaves are deformed, dry and fall off.

For prevention, regularly carefully inspect the plants, at least once every 15–20 days wipe the leaves with a damp sponge, cut off all yellowed, withered, dried leaves in a timely manner. The sooner you find the problem and start to deal with it, the easier it is to get rid of the worm.

Control measures:

1. At an early stage, it is enough to wipe the leaves with a piece of bandage or a cotton pad dipped in laundry soap foam, and then spray the calathea with a solution of potassium three times a week. green soap(a teaspoon of fine chips per liter of water).
2. Another option is to wipe the leaves with 7–10% ethyl alcohol or an alcohol tincture of calendula flowers diluted to the same concentration. A more concentrated solution can burn the leaves.
3. In severe cases, use insecticides - Actellik, Fitoverm, Inta-Vir, Nurell-D, Karbofos. Before use, be sure to read the instructions and recommendations of the manufacturer. The affected calatheas are sprayed with the prepared solution weekly until the pest is completely destroyed.
   

   If one of the drugs does not give visible results, use another until you find the most effective chemical.

4. Those who prefer natural remedies, can fight the mealybug with the help of infusion of garlic shooters, onion peels, peels of any citrus fruits. 50–70 g of crushed raw materials are poured with a liter of boiling water, tightly closed with a lid and removed for 2–3 days in a warm, dark place. Ready-to-use infusion is filtered. Processing is carried out every 3-4 days in the evenings, alternating means. With a cotton swab dipped in the infusion, periodically changing it, wipe the leaves and peduncles.

spider mite

The spider mite is a pest that feeds on plant juices; it is a carrier of many pathogenic viruses, fungi and bacteria. On a calathea affected by a spider mite, you can see thin threads braiding leaves or their petioles, as well as small whitish dots on the lower part of the leaf plate. If the process has gone too far, the plant literally hides under a thick layer of a whitish mass resembling a cobweb.

Spider mite feels great in insufficiently humidified air, therefore, for prevention, regularly spray calathea leaves. Perform sanitary pruning in a timely manner - remove faded flower stalks, old dried leaves.

You should not be overly zealous with moisture - the liquid accumulating in the axils of the leaves, especially in winter, will very quickly lead to rotting of the flower. Also, do not hope to drown pests by periodically immersing the plant in water entirely. Ticks are able to form a shell of an air bubble that effectively protects them.

Control measures:

1. The fight against spider mites begins with rubbing the leaves with a solution of laundry soap or dishwashing liquid in warm water.
   

   Don't limit yourself to surface spraying. Spider mites prefer secluded places, such as leaf axils. It is also useful to process pots, stands for them and a window sill.

2. If the pest has not yet hit the calathea en masse, water the plant abundantly (0.5 l of water) and cover it with a plastic bag on top for 2-3 days, tightly fixing it on the pot. Due to the increased humidity, the pests inside the bag will die. All this time, keep an eye on the calathea (especially in summer) so that sunburn does not appear on the leaves.
3. In advanced cases, spraying the flower with solutions of Karbofos, Inta-Vir, Fitoverm, as well as products containing Neem tree oil, will help. At the same time, Temika or Aldicarb granules can be applied to the soil.
4. In addition to high humidity, these pests really do not like ultraviolet light. That is why they prefer to settle on the underside of the leaf plate. If you have a fluorescent lamp, irradiate the leaves with it.
5. You can try the following folk remedies:
   • Onion infusion. 10–15 g of finely chopped onion or 2 times less husks are poured with a liter of water at room temperature and infused for 8–10 hours. Before use, the infusion is filtered.
   • Infusion of dandelion roots. A tablespoon of finely chopped raw materials is poured into a liter warm water and insist 2-3 hours.
   • Garlic infusion. A slurry of peeled cloves (12–15 pieces) is poured with a liter of water and infused for 4–5 days. Then mix thoroughly and take a teaspoon of liquid for spraying, diluting it again in a liter of water.
     

Shchitovka

On the leaves affected by this pest, a sticky transparent coating appears, which is clearly visible in the sun due to its characteristic luster. Scale insects feed on plant sap, and their excrement creates a light and airtight film, negatively affecting the normal course of photosynthesis and cellular respiration of the plant. Calathea practically stops growing, the leaves are deformed, turn yellow and dry out.

For prevention, regularly inspect the plants for the presence of characteristic dark brown, almost flat growths on the underside of the leaves, on the petioles and at the roots. At least once every 2-3 weeks, wipe the calathea with a soft cloth dipped in warm water.

Control measures:

1. If literally the entire plant is affected by the pest, it is easier to destroy it, disinfect the pot and pan, and wash the window sill and window thoroughly with hot water.
2. When the problem has not yet passed into the chronic stage, pour warm (about 45 ° C) water over the flower from a watering can or shower. Then wipe it with a cotton swab dipped in 70% ethanol. Make sure to spread the alcohol in a thin layer so it evaporates faster. 1–1.5 hours after wiping with alcohol, the calathea is treated with a thick foam of laundry soap. Foam treatment is repeated every other day, and then after 3–4 days (7–10 times in total) until the pest is completely destroyed. The second and subsequent foam treatments can be replaced by thorough spraying with solutions of Inta-Vir, Aktara, Aktellik, Fufanon, Fury, Bazudin preparations. It is important that the leaves are completely dry before the procedure.
   

   Since some of the products listed are quite toxic, read the label carefully and follow all the safety measures described by the manufacturer. It is best to carry out processing on a balcony, loggia or outdoors.

whitefly

The smallest insects with whitish wings appear on the underside of the calathea leaves. If you shake the plant slightly, you can see how they rise into the air. On the leaves, starting from the lowest, a shiny sticky coating forms. The whitefly loves heat and high humidity. Therefore, in winter, for prevention, it is useful to hold calatheas for 3-4 weeks at a temperature of about 18ºС.

Control measures:

1. Of the pest control chemicals, Verticillin and Pegasus (no more than two treatments), Actellik (up to 4 treatments in 4–6 days), Confidor, Mospilan, Fufanon (one procedure) can be used at intervals of 7–10 days.
2. Folk remedies for the fight against whitefly:
   • Traps. Pieces of cardboard, plywood, glass are painted in bright colors and placed next to the flower pots, pre-lubricated with a mixture of petroleum jelly or rosin with honey, jam or sugar syrup. Whiteflies stick to the trap, attracted bright color. Homemade traps will successfully replace special sticky tapes designed for catching flies.
   • Infusion of yarrow. 3 tablespoons of leaves and stems are finely chopped and poured with a liter of boiling water. They insist for days. Filter the leaves before spraying.
   • Garlic infusion. A teaspoon of finely chopped arrows or a gruel of 2-3 cloves is poured with a liter of water and infused for a day.
     

     However, any folk remedies are effective only when the problem is identified in a timely manner and while there are still not very many pests.

Photo gallery: calathea pests

Small whiteflies are easy to see just by shaking the calathea Scale insects, resembling natural growths, are easy to miss at first, but they are very dangerous pests. It is simply impossible not to notice spider mites, especially when they have bred in abundance - the calathea is literally hidden under the web Large colonies of mealybugs are literally able to suck all the juices out of the calathea

flower reproduction

Calathea at home is propagated in three main ways. Reproduction by division requires the least time and effort.

Root division

Adult plants older than 3–5 years independently form several rhizomes that are practically separate from each other, which are easy to finally separate during transplantation. Usually, 3-4 new calatheas can be obtained from one plant.

Adult calathea successfully reproduces by dividing the bush, but this method is not suitable for all species.

Procedure:

1. The main thing when dividing is not to damage the roots. To do this, they are cut with a sharp knife, disinfected in a rich purple solution of potassium permanganate.
2. All sections are sprinkled with crushed activated charcoal.
3. New plants are planted in small pots filled with peat mixed with coarse river sand in a ratio of 2:1.
4. The soil after transplantation is abundantly watered with cool water. The next watering - only after the soil is completely dry.
5. The pots are placed in plastic bags that are loosely tied. Another option is to make several holes in them.
6. The containers are placed in a warm place (25–28ºС) until 1–2 new sheets appear.
7. Then the plant is transplanted into a slightly larger pot (literally 2-3 cm) and put in a permanent place. The composition of the soil is the same, but with the addition of humus in equal amounts with peat.
8. A year later, the calathea is transplanted again and cared for, like an adult plant.

cuttings

A slightly more time-consuming method is cuttings. A healthy leaf or part of a shoot is carefully separated from the flower, taking care that it has a growing point. The correct cutting should be at least 12–15 cm long and have a minimum of 3–4 leaves.

For subsequent planting, it is important to choose the right cuttings.

The stalk is placed in a prepared pot with the same soil that is prepared for calathea propagated by division, and covered with plastic wrap. Remove it only when the plant puts out 3-4 roots.

Planting seeds

Propagation by seeds is a process with an unpredictable result. In this case, the daughter plants with almost 100% probability will not retain their varietal characteristics. But it is very interesting to wait for the result of the selection carried out by oneself.

Calathea seeds look like small yellowish balls.

Seeds are harvested in the fall, after waiting until the calathea flower stalks are completely dry. They are dried in the open air for a couple of hours and planted in shallow containers filled with a mixture of fertile soil with river sand in a ratio of 2: 1. Optimum temperature for Calathea seeds - 22–25ºС. As soon as the first pair of leaves appears, the plants are planted in small pots (7–9 cm in diameter) filled with the same soil.

Even in ideal conditions no more than half of the seeds will sprout.

Difficulties and mistakes of care

It is rather difficult to create conditions ideal for calathea at home on the windowsill. Therefore, it is important to know what is the cause of the most common plant problems.

Table: common problems and their causes

Symptom	Cause
The tips of the leaves are taken out or dry.	Low air humidity.
Yellowed or brownish but not dry leaf tips.	Incorrect feeding or excess fertilizer. This is especially true for fertilizers containing nitrogen. Another option is cold drafts.
The leaves are twisted into a tube, covered with spots that are lighter than the main tone of the leaf plate.	Insufficiently moist soil. The plant needs more frequent watering.
Decaying petioles or bases of leaves at the base. Under their own weight, the leaves simply lie down.	Insufficiently high temperature in the room and excessively high humidity.
Leaves fall.	Insufficient air humidity too much watering acidified soil.
Leaves dry.	Perhaps this is due natural cycle development. Calathea changes foliage about once a year. If at the same time the growth of the plant slows down, the symptom means insufficient watering and lack of nutrients.
Light spots appear on the leaves.	Direct sunlight on the leaf plate. Or these are sunburns formed in those places where large drops of water remained on the plant after spraying, which played the role of lenses.
The leaves are deformed, become lighter, thinner and excessively stretched	The plant does not have enough light.
Small white crystals on the underside of the leaves.	If at the same time there are no cobwebs, indicating damage by a spider mite, this is completely normal. On the back of the leaves there are points of secretion of cell sap, which hardens in the open air.

Video: the secrets of caring for a beautiful calathea

). The plant is native to Brazil.

A relative of Maranta, Stromanthe and Ctenanthe, this attractive species has only recently appeared in flower shops. The name of the plant "calathea" is of Greek origin from the word "kalathos", which means "basket". Initially, the locals of Brazil used its leaves to make baskets, which explains such an unusual name. Today, such a flower is more of an aesthetic decoration than a production raw material. Its appearance captivates not only admirers of beauty, but also experienced flower growers who have seen more than a dozen attractive ornamental plants.

Homemade varieties of the calathea flower stand out among the indoor "oasis" with their colorful and majestic foliage. In turn, inflorescences with bright orange-yellow flowers look luxurious against the background of dark green leaves with a red-brown underside. The flowers are long lasting. The flowering period most often occurs in the spring-summer period. The height of this wonderful green "pet" can be 80-90 cm, while its oval leaves reach a length of about 35 cm. proper care can please its owners with the appearance of 5-6 new leaves.

Indoor species of calathea plants have been decorating rooms for many years, but for normal development they require periodic transplantation. Among professional flower growers there is a comic nickname for this flower - "prayer". This is due to the peculiarity of the placement of leaves in the evening. They rise and, turning towards each other, resemble palms closed in prayer. The charm and beauty of such home plant in a flower shop will definitely attract Special attention buyer.

Varieties and varieties of houseplant Calathea: photo, name and description

The maranth family, of which Calathea is a representative, pleases with its diversity and abundance of all kinds of interpretations of colors, inflorescences and shapes. According to modern breeders, in nature there are many types of Calathea and more than a hundred varieties. But not all of them are cultivated and can grow at home.

For a more detailed acquaintance with the existing types of "home" calathea, take a look at the photo with the indicated names and read the brief description.

Saffron species (crocata) flower considered the most decorative representative among his domestic relatives. The habitual habitat is the coast of the Amazon. The oval leaves with corrugated edges have a rich green hue with a bright brown "wrong side". The inflorescences are located on elongated stems and attract with variegated orange colors. It was this trait that gave the plant the nickname "eternal flame". Attractive flowers-lights bloom in winter and delight the eye for more than 4 months.

Particularly exquisite is the amazing type of calathea plant, called the Medallion. A relatively low representative of its family, whose height barely reaches 40 cm. Distinctive features are its oval leaves, where rich silvery spots are visible against a dark green background, creating a unique and inimitable ornament. The purple underside of the leafy plate becomes noticeable in the evening, when they gently turn, preparing for "sleep".

The decorated calathea shown in the photo is a type of plant, the name of which confirms the presence of an elegant pattern on leafy plates:

Contrasting white veins on juicy green leaves give them a special brightness and attractiveness.

At home, experienced flower growers cultivate one of the most beautiful varieties of this type of calathea - Sanderiana. Such amazing flower reaches more than 50 cm in height with wide oblong leaves, on which are characteristic white and pale pink stripes from the central vein to the edges of the leaf plate. The reverse side of the leaf is painted in a noble burgundy color.

Another variety of this type of calathea was named Roseolineata due to the smooth transition of shades on the leaves from bright pink to silvery white. Such variegated stripes, arranged in pairs from the central vein to the edges of the leaf plates, look very neat and elegant.

The lanceolate variety of the calathea flower is rightfully considered the most attractive representative of its kind. That is why there is another name for it among the people - wonderful. The height of this plant wild nature reaches 70 cm, however, for its indoor varieties, the maximum value of this parameter is 45-50 cm. The foliage is distinguished by a lanceolate structure, wavy edges and a slightly convex vein in the center. The color of the leaf plate is the main advantage of this type. Dark green stripes in combination with light ovals create a unique ornament that fascinates and attracts the eye.

A fairly rare species of calathea is called Lancifolia. Even at home, this plant can reach 80 cm in height. The leaves of the flower are elongated with a distinctive light green color, on which dark spots are placed along the inner central vein. Delicate inflorescences of white or pale pink color are compactly located on low legs, creating a luxurious lush bouquet.

Calathea Varshevich is distinguished by exceptional sophistication, which will easily decorate any room. A tall plant, reaching 90-120 cm, has beautiful wavy leaves with a velvety surface in dark green color scheme and a lighter center. The flowers of this type of calathea outwardly resemble white spikelets with barely bent petals.

Tropical type of calathea - striped or Zebrina. A bright representative of its family, which is characterized by wide oval-shaped leaves with a length of about 40 cm and clearly visible stripes. Inflorescences are placed on short legs and, depending on the variety, are white or with a lilac tint.

Admire this type of calathea by looking at the photo of its varieties:

Calathea Makoya is interesting for flower growers solely for its abstractly “painted” leaves, since flowering is not characteristic of this plant.

According to its external parameters, which confirms the proposed photo, this variety of calathea is one of the compact plants, the height of which does not exceed 30-40 cm:

Leaf blades have a silvery surface with dark green stripes and spots, creating original patterns and ornaments in their combination. Long petioles of purple leaves have a slight hairiness. The reverse side of the sheet plate duplicates the pattern from the "front" side, but in darker shades of brown-purple.

For greater clarity of the above description, take a look at the photo of the types of calathea and their varieties with the indicated names:

This beautiful plant fascinates with its variety of patterns, shades and shapes of graceful leaves.

Conditions for caring for indoor flower calathea

Growing a calathea plant is a rather difficult and difficult task. Any experienced grower will confirm the capriciousness and exactingness of this home flower. Therefore, to provide the necessary conditions for normal life ornamental shrub under the force is not for everyone. It is necessary to pay attention to proper air humidity, temperature stability, sufficient lighting.

• Location: semi-shady, which does not provide for direct sunlight.
• Temperature: increased all year round, even in winter not below 16 °C. It is important to ensure the stability of the temperature regime, which in the warm season would be + 21 ... + 25 ° C, and even in severe winters it would be at least + 16 ... + 19 ° C. The absence of drafts is a necessary condition for the normal growth of domestic motley beauties.
• Air humidity: high - 80-90%. Good conditions are created by a closed showcase for indoor plants, which provides the necessary lighting, maintains a constant temperature and humidity. It is necessary to regularly spray with softened water or provide high humidity in a non-contact way.
• Substrate: flower soil mixture, which can be purchased at any specialized flower shop.

This list of vital conditions for the normal development of this home shrub is far from exhaustive. Therefore, it is further worthwhile to figure out in detail how to properly care for the graceful indoor calathea flower before decorating your home with it. But all efforts and efforts will be rewarded with extraordinary beauty and attractiveness!

How to properly care for indoor calathea flower at home

The whimsicalness of the calathea flower increases the requirements for caring for it at home. And despite the fact that the “whims” of this ornamental shrub seem impossible for many, it is still possible to achieve the desired result. The healthy sheen of broad, colorful leaves with unique patterns and pronounced stripes is something worth putting in the effort and effort.

For many beginner amateur flower growers highest level skill is considered to be growing a calathea indoor flower, because not everyone understands what care should be for it.

And if an amazing shrub brought from a flower shop pleases and attracts the eye, then after a couple of weeks there are many reasons for concern. Dry leaves, yellow color of their tips, wilting - not the whole list of problems that beginners may encounter.

Watering and fertilizing when leaving a calathea (with video)

• Watering: use soft, well-purified water at room temperature. Water sparingly throughout the year, keeping the soil slightly moist. Excess moisture that flows into the pallets must be removed immediately so that the soil does not rot and fungi do not form. It is important to regularly spray the surface of the leaf plates with water at room temperature in order to achieve a healthy sheen and rich shades.
• Top dressing: in the summer every 2 weeks in small doses. As a fertilizer, it is better to give preference to mineral complexes that are intended for deciduous houseplants. For better care of indoor calathea shrubs, in the presence of flowers, it is advisable to use top dressing for flowering plants.

In winter, to create the required level of humidity in the air, it is advisable to resort to the help of special devices - air humidifiers. A positive effect on the condition and growth of ornamental shrubs is provided by periodic heaving of the soil, which at the same time is enriched with oxygen vital for the rhizome.

For a more detailed description of the basic principles of calathea care, watch a video where experienced flower growers will demonstrate all the most important subtleties:

Why do the tips of the leaves turn yellow and dry in calathea, what to do in this case

From the description of the varieties of calathea, the fact of their attractiveness and whimsicality to living conditions remains indisputable. And as soon as the slightest "requirement" is not fulfilled, the plant makes it known in the form of diseases. That is why beginners in floriculture often encounter problematic situations when the tips of the leaves begin to turn yellow and dry at Calathea. But in order to eliminate such an unpleasant “symptom” of the disease, it is necessary to deal with its causes.

Sheet plates for this ornamental plant may acquire a yellowish tint at different levels. If the lower leaves begin to turn yellow, then there is no cause for concern, since this indicates the passage of the usual processes of natural rejuvenation. However, if the yellow color becomes most of deciduous crown of a shrub, then it is worthwhile to deal with the main prerequisites for such an unsafe phenomenon.

Most professional flower growers, when asked why the leaves of homemade calatheas begin to turn yellow, give an explanation in the form of the following reasons:

1. Watering was done incorrectly: excess or lack of moisture.
2. used poor quality water for irrigation of the soil: untreated, chlorinated or cold.
3. Insufficient air humidity.
4. Overzealous with fertilizers.
5. Cold temperature regime.

And if it is established that led to a situation where the leaves of room calathea began to turn yellow, then the question of what to do will disappear by itself. After all, the elimination of the causes of the disease is the recipe for its treatment! So, by normalizing the volume and composition of the liquid during irrigation, you can avoid the unpleasant syndrome of "unhealthy leaves". Creating the necessary stable air temperature and humidity - important step on the way to the healthy brilliance of the deciduous crown of an exquisite ornamental shrub at home.

Why do calatheas curl and dry at the edges of the leaves

A widespread disease for calathea leaves is their twisting. The reason for this disease lies mainly in the atmosphere:

• Reduced air humidity.
• Changeable temperature regime with a predominance of coolness.
• The presence of drafts in the habitats of the home flower.

Having studied the conditions in which the plant grows in the house, you can easily understand why the leaves of the calathea begin to curl. And this is more than enough to determine in what steps the solution and the way out of this situation are hidden.

The exactingness to the living conditions of the capricious green "beauty" is significant, but, of course, doable. And as soon as they break ground rules care, this can be immediately determined, since the thin tips of the graceful leaves of calathea dry. At the same time, in order to eliminate such a consequence, it is worth understanding the root causes.

If the drying edges are dominated by yellowness, then the plant is on the sunny side of the room, and direct rays burn its foliage.

In the case when the leaves of the calathea gradually dry at the edges, with the appearance of dark spots, it is worth reducing the amount of spraying or reconsidering the temperature and composition of the water used for this purpose.

Pests that cause leaf diseases in Calathea

Among the main pests that cause diseases in Calathea, there are:

• False shields.
• Red spider mite.
• Thrips.

A more detailed description of the damage caused by these insects is given below.

thrips appear with excessive watering, and their presence is given out by white spots on the surface of the leaves, which subsequently increase, dry and turn into holes.

Therefore, to the question of why the tips of the leaves curl and dry in the beautiful calathea, the answer may lie in the presence of harmful insects.

• Firstly, the main task in treatment is to isolate the "center" of the lesion in time, since all insects multiply and spread at great speed.
• Secondly, high humidity- the condition in which pests die, so this step is no less important than the subsequent spraying.
• Thirdly, false shields and thrips can be eliminated using an insecticidal preparation, but to improve the effectiveness of such a procedure, it is first necessary to treat the affected leaves with a concentrated soapy solution.
• Fourth, the most difficult task is to eliminate the red spider mite with a single procedure, which is easily adapted to most chemicals.

Often, calathea is affected, in addition to pests, by the fungal disease rhizoctoniosis, the cause of which is excessive moisture in the soil. It is she who leads to the decay of the rhizome and creates favorable conditions for the development of rhizoctoniosis. The recipe for treatment for such a fungus is the use of fungicides as sprays.

A beautiful and healthy decorative calathea bush requires compliance with all the conditions for its normal life. In this case, as a token of gratitude, he will delight his owners with beautiful broad-leaved crowns with variegated brilliant coloring and amazing flowering.

Transplant when caring for calathea at home: how to transplant a flower

Necessary requirement home care for calathea is its transplantation, which should be carried out immediately after acquisition or when it reaches a certain age and size. Periodic transplantation is performed if necessary in the spring.

To begin with, choose a pot that should be wide and shallow, in order to avoid the accumulation of excess moisture. The base layer in the transplant tank is expanded clay drainage, which will prevent unwanted waterlogging of the soil. The width of the expanded clay layer is determined by calculating the height of the pot and the size of the rhizome, since the distance between the roots of the plant and the drainage must be at least 2 cm.

The transplanted plant should be cleaned of excess earth on the rhizomes, straighten the roots and carefully place in the prepared soil. It is not worth tamping the ground around the "seedling", let the roots independently adapt to the new "place of residence" and have access to oxygen.

To maintain moderate soil moisture, you should not overdo it with watering and carry out the first irrigation procedure 2-3 days after transplantation.

During incubation period special attention should be paid to loosening the soil and light spraying from a fine sprayer so that the moisture barely touches the leafy plates in the form of a cloud. The condition of a newly transplanted flower can be beneficially affected by spraying with a solution of zircon.

Flower growers use several types of calathea propagation in ordinary home conditions: by dividing large plants in September or by apical cuttings in spring, when the earth warms up to 20 ° C. Each of possible ways, has its own characteristics, nuances and advantages.

According to many experts in this field, the most effective technique involves reproduction by dividing an adult shrub. In such a procedure, it is worth considering important points and features of the procedure.

It is possible to correctly divide a flower only during transplantation, when the structure of the rhizome and leaves is clearly visible. The temperature regime during transplantation should not be lower than + 20 ... + 22 ° С.

The selected pot for the "young" shoot should correspond to its size, not exceeding a diameter of 7-9 cm. The substrate must include three components: sand, leafy soil and peat. It is necessary to place such a process in a warm place with the right level of humidity.

However, it is worth remembering the capriciousness of this plant and you should not expect quick rooting.

Another way to propagate home calathea is with the help of sheets, that is, cuttings. The sequence of this process consists of well-defined steps.

• Firstly, a suitable cutting may be an aerial process with several healthy leaves.
• Secondly, carefully separated cuttings should be planted in pre-prepared moist soil and covered with a film.
• Thirdly, the duration of such an artificially created "greenhouse" depends on how quickly the sprout takes root.
• Fourth, the stalk with regrown roots is transplanted into a small pot and allowed to get stronger, after which it is worth repeating the transplant into a large container.

Such a procedure is only possible for professionals who know exactly all the features of cuttings and can create the necessary greenhouse effect for young shoots.

How calathea propagates by seeds

For those who want to comprehensively study the question of how indoor calathea propagates, it is worth remembering another alternative method - with the help of seeds. In life, it is used very rarely, because, along with significant efforts, not every experienced grower manages to get the expected result. The technology of this method of reproduction covers several simple procedures.

Carefully prepare the soil by mixing leafy soil with sand in a ratio of 2:1. Plant the seeds in a moist substrate. It is important to observe the temperature regime - 22-24 ° C heat and air humidity of at least 80%.

Densely germinated sprouts are planted, giving them the opportunity to develop and grow stronger.

Plant young rooted sprouts in pots with a diameter of no more than 7 cm and carefully care for them until they reach a more “mature” state, after which the transplant procedure is repeated.

Such a breeding process can take more than six months, so many initially reject the possibility of its application in practice.

You have probably seen this flower with large wide leaves of unusually beautiful colors. Calathea looks luxurious both on the window and anywhere in the room; it will serve as a real decoration of the house. It seems that she is docile and unpretentious, but this is not at all the case: calathea is demanding to care for, therefore only experienced flower growers are successfully growing and breeding this plant at home. If you are still new to the cultivation of indoor flowers, but Calathea has already taken a place in your heart and in your apartment, this article is for you.

This herbaceous plant belongs to the Marantov family. Its underground shoots form rhizomes near the soil surface, on which rosettes of leaves are located, growing strictly vertically. Since under natural conditions, Calathea grows in the tropical forests of South America, mainly on the banks of reservoirs, it is very demanding on humidity. This plant loves regular abundant watering, but its excess can be fatal. . It is these "whims" and the search for compromises that become the biggest difficulty when growing calathea at home.

It has long been used in the homeland of calathea not at all to decorate the house, but for quite banal domestic purposes: baskets were woven from its leaves (from the word kalathos - a basket - the name of the flower came from), mattresses were made, fish were wrapped in them.

There are about 130 types of Calathea. The height of some of them reaches 80 cm. A distinctive feature of each species is the shape and color of the leaf. They are united by the fact that they are large, about 30 cm long and grow from a rosette.

There are many types of calathea, and each of them can be a decoration for your home.

Calathea flowers also differ slightly depending on the species (mainly in color), and what they have in common is rounded or spike-shaped inflorescences. Not only the external beauty of the leaves is attractive in Calathea. They have one feature: in the evenings, the plant raises the leaves up, and in the morning lowers them down again. Calathea seems to offer an evening prayer. It is for this feature that she received another name - a prayer flower.

An interesting small feature in the structure of flowers, due to which, under natural conditions, only the smallest species of bees can pollinate Calathea. Inside the flower is a hook-shaped outgrowth that blocks the path to pollen. The pollination process looks like this: the bee sits on the selected flower, inserts its proboscis into it and stumbles upon this process, pushing it. The hook straightens, slapping the stigma on the bee, thereby leaving pollen on it from its surface. The insect shudders at such cotton, shaking off the pollen taken from another flower.

Video about the content of Calathea at home

plant varieties

Each type of calathea is unique and unlike the others. This applies to both leaves and flowers. To achieve the maximum decorative effect, you can create a mix of several varieties of calathea.

Each variety of calathea has original, uniquely beautiful leaves.

1. Calathea Medallion, or Roseopicta (Calathea roseopicta). One of the most common types of calathea. Leaves up to 20 cm long, 10–15 cm wide. The color has a bright clear pattern of several shades of green. The underside of the leaf is purple.
2. Saffron Calathea, or Crocat (Calathea crocata). A plant with a dark green upper side of the leaves and an almost brown underside. The peculiarity of saffron calathea is that it blooms regularly. With proper lighting and temperature conditions, you can get the first bright yellow inflorescences as early as February.
3. Calathea Rufibarba (Calathea rufibarba). Red-bearded calathea, as it is popularly called because of the light fluff on the petioles and leaves. The shape of the leaves of this species is oblong, elongated, wavy along the edges. Coloring without pattern, from light green to dark green.
4. Calathea Varshevich (Calathea warscewiczii). A plant with oval-shaped leaves, a dark green base color interspersed with a light pattern diverging from the central vein. The underside is purple. The surface is velvety. Inflorescence spike-shaped, white, cream or pink.
5. A flower with long narrow leaves that can reach a height of 90 cm from the base of the cutting. Coloring - several tones of green contrasting to each other, from light to dark.
6. Calathea Ornata (decorated). Its varieties are Roseolineata and Sanderiana. A short plant that rarely reaches a height of more than 15 cm. The leaves are elliptical, 20 cm long and 6 wide. The underside of the leaf is purple, the top is yellow-green, with a silver and pink pattern. Flowers are white or purple.
7. Calathea Zebrina, or striped (Calathea zebrina). Originally from Brazil. The leaves are elliptical, reach 40 cm in length and 15 cm in width. On the green outer surface of the leaf are pinnate light stripes, the inner side is reddish. Inflorescences spike-shaped, white or purple.
8. Calathea Lubbers (Calathea Lubbersii). main feature- unusual coloring. In other types of calathea, the leaf pattern is strictly symmetrical, in the same yellow spots randomly arranged on a green surface. The underside of the leaf is green, not purple or reddish.
9. Calathea Veitchiana (Calathea veitchiana). A plant up to 80–90 cm high with oval leaves reaching 30 cm in length and 10 cm in width, dense, smooth-glossy. The color of the upper side of the sheet is yellow patterns on a green background, the lower side is yellow on red. Spike inflorescences are usually white.
10. Leopard calathea (Calathea leopardina). A small plant, reaching a height of no more than 50 cm. Lanceolate leaves 15 cm long and 5 cm wide are painted on top alternately with light green and dark green spots radiating from the central vein. Yellow flowers are collected in an ear.
11. Calathea Litze (Calathea lietzei). Growing in its natural environment - the tropical forests of Brazil, it forms dense thickets, reaching 60 cm in height. The leaves are elliptical in shape, medium-sized - only 6 cm wide and 15 cm long, slightly wavy. On the upper side, the color of the leaf is bright green with a silvery sheen, on the lower side - reddish-purple. Inflorescences are short, spike-shaped, white.
12. Calathea painted (Calathea picturata). The leaves are oblong, reach 20 cm in length. An interesting multi-level coloration: symmetrical dark stripes diverge from the light central vein, surrounded by a light stripe.
13. Network, or mosaic calathea (Calathea musaica Network). The white, translucent plate is lined with bright green veins into small rectangles, which gives the impression that the surface of the plant is really composed of a mosaic.

A variety of types of Calathea in the photo

Calathea saffron differs in regular abundant flowering

Calathea Sanderiana - a subspecies of Calathea decorated
Calathea Rufibarba can reach up to 90 cm in height
Calathea Roseolineata with original leaf color
Calathea Ornata - another subspecies of calathea decorated
The leaves of Calathea Network resemble a mosaic in their color
Calathea Medallion - perhaps the most common variety
Calathea Lubbers has an asymmetrical leaf color


Calathea Lansifolia reaches 60 cm in height
blooming calathea Zebrina
Interesting contrasting color of Calathea Veitch
Blooming Calathea Varshevich

Landing and transplant

Calathea does not tolerate transplants very well, but they are necessary due to the rapid development of the root system. Therefore, you will have to repot it every 2-4 years, and the young plant will need to be transplanted every year to provide more room to grow.

1. The pot should be wide and low, because the root system is superficial. Do not take too much capacity in the hope that the plant will have a reserve of space for the future: the soil will quickly turn sour and become destructive to the roots. For one cutting, a pot with a diameter of 7–9 cm will suffice; in subsequent transplants, take dishes 3–5 cm wider.

   For calathea, choose low wide pots

2. It is very important to provide a powerful drainage layer for the calathea. At the bottom of the pot up to a third of its height, pour expanded clay, fine gravel, broken shards, pebbles.

   Be sure to provide good drainage for the flower

3. For good growth, calathea needs a slightly acidic substrate, loose and well breathable. You can make your own with 2 parts peat moss, 2 parts leafy soil and 1 part sand. It will be useful to add chopped pine bark, coco soil, charcoal, sphagnum, the more the better. You can mix the prepared substrate with these loosening components in a ratio of 1:1.

   It is important to choose the right substrate

4. If you decide to use a store-bought substrate for planting calathea, add coarse sand to it (1 part sand to 2 parts soil).
5. You need to transplant the plant in the spring, in April, when it gets warmer. Prepare the pot, put drainage on the bottom, pour some substrate. If you are planting a young cutting, carefully straighten its roots and fill the pot to the top with the substrate, slightly crushing it, but not compacting it.
6. When transplanting an old plant, you may find that the root system has grown and braided the entire clod of soil. Do not try to untangle the roots and extract the earth. Just take a larger pot so that the whole bush with an earthy clod fits in it and there is space left, about 1-2 cm to the wall of the dish.
7. After the transplant is completed, water the plant with a solution of Zircon (4 drops per 1 liter of water).

   Zircon will help Calathea adapt after transplantation

How to transplant calathea - video

Like any plant, calathea requires proper care. Any mistakes and incorrect actions can lead to problems with the flower - it will begin to stain, dry and eventually die.

Watering

In spring and summer, during the hot sunny period, calathea needs abundant watering, in winter - moderate. For irrigation, you need to use only soft, settled water for at least a day.

The frequency of watering can be determined by touch. Touch the top layer of soil: it should dry at least 2 cm from the surface, and preferably on the upper third of the pot. To verify this, pierce the soil with a wooden stick, moist soil will remain on it, you can easily determine its depth.

Proper watering is the key to a spectacular view of Calathea

At a room temperature below +20 ° C, the earth should dry out on the entire upper half of the pot. Otherwise, you need to wait a few more days before the next watering. Do not forget that frequent watering does not at all compensate for insufficient air humidity, on the contrary, if you overdo it with water in the soil, you risk losing the calathea, as its young roots will begin to rot.

Lighting

Although Calathea came to us from the hot tropics, she does not like direct sunlight. Provide the flower with good, but diffused lighting around and light partial shade directly nearby.

If there is not enough light, the leaves will begin to lose their contrasting color, becoming gradually evenly green. Too much light will cause the leaves to turn reddish-brown and scorch.

Provide calathea good lighting by selecting the west or east window

The best place for this flower will be windows witheast or west side. Calathea tolerates shade well, but it needs good lighting for growth: without it, it will not become large and thick. Therefore, in winter, when the daylight hours are very short, and the sun is very scarce, provide your pet with additional lighting using fluorescent or LED lamps.

Air temperature and humidity level

Calathea belongs to heat-loving plants, in addition, it does not tolerate drafts and large temperature changes. In summer, the flower will feel great at normal ambient temperatures in the fresh air, for example, on a balcony or veranda. But the plant tolerates heat with difficulty. If the temperature outside or indoors is above +28 ° C, move the calathea to the floor, or even better, place it in trays with water.

In winter, provide the flower with a temperature not lower than +16 °C, optimally - +18 ... +22 °C. Calathea can adapt and harden over time, so it can tolerate night temperatures of about +13 ° C if there are no drafts.

Moisturize the calathea with a spray bottle only if its leaves are smooth and glossy.

Calathea, as a resident of the tropics, simply needs high humidity, about 60-70%. Unfortunately, in the conditions of an apartment with central heating it is very difficult to achieve such an indicator: in winter it does not rise above 20%, and in summer in dry weather it is no more than 45%. You can use one of the following methods:

1. Spray calathea leaves from a spray bottle as often as possible. True, this lesson is quite laborious: you have to repeat the action every 2 hours.
2. Place the calathea pot on a tray of wet pebbles or wet sphagnum moss. Naturally, there should be holes in the bottom of the pot. You only need to moisten the tray filler from time to time.
3. Buy a humidifier. This is the best solution for those who keep any flowers of the Marantov family in the apartment.

You can also wipe the leaves of the plant on both sides with a damp sponge. But remember: this is only valid for those varieties of calathea whose leaves are smooth and glossy. A thin velvety surface indicates that water cannot get on it, as it can cause burns. For the same reason, calatheas of such varieties cannot be sprayed from a spray bottle.

Top dressing and fertilizers

As with all other care, Calathea is also quite demanding in terms of feeding and needs a strict balance. The plant should receive the required amount of fertilizer, but in no case should they be allowed to be in excess.

From April to August, feed the calathea every 2 weeks with complex fertilizers for ornamental foliage plants. At the same time, try to reduce the dosage indicated by the manufacturer by half. If there is not enough fertilizer, Calathea will let you know this, and this situation will be much easier to fix than root rot from an oversupply of top dressing.

Calatheas that bloom more often than other species (saffron and Varshevich's calathea) are best fed with fertilizers for ornamental flowering plants.

Feed calathea with special fertilizers for arrowroot or ornamental foliage plants.

In winter, top dressing should be reduced: 1 time in 5-6 weeks will be enough. Do not forget that Calathea does not tolerate excess nitrogen and calcium in the soil.

Fertilizer schedule - table

Name of the drug	Dosage	How to deposit
Liquid fertilizer Etisso	10 ml (1 dispenser) dissolve in 1.5 l of water	From March to September - 1 time per week, from October to February - 1 time per month
Master for ornamental foliage plants	5 g (1 teaspoon) per 2 liters of water	Water under the root every 10-14 days during the period of active growth
Gilea for ornamental foliage plants	1 cap for 1 liter of water	Water every two weeks in the spring-summer period, in winter, reduce the fertilizer concentration by half (1 cap per 2 liters of water)
Agricola for flowering plants	5 g (1 teaspoon) of powder per 2 liters of water	Watering flowering species kalati during budding and flowering every 7-10 days

flowering period

Almost all varieties of calathea bloom on average 1 time per year, usually in summer. Flowering is modest, with the exception of Calathea saffron, whose flowers are not inferior in beauty to exotic luxurious leaves. This species, with proper care, begins to bloom in January-February, flowering continues for several months.

During the flowering period, calathea requires the same care as the rest of the time. Control the drying of the soil in the pot so that you do not miss watering and do not over-wet the soil. Maintain humidity - during flowering, this is especially important. Feed with fertilizer for flowering plants.

Care mistakes: how to notice and correct in time?

If the air in the apartment is too dry in winter, this can cause the leaves to dry out. Try to increase the humidity of the air by spraying the plant and the area around it, cover the radiators with wet towels.

It is possible to get a more hardy calathea adapted to housing conditions by re-rooting it. A small part of the root with leaves should be cut with a sharp knife. Treat the cut with chopped charcoal or ground cinnamon. Plant the shoot in a small container with a substrate and place it in a place with diffused light. Spray the plant as often as possible, using epin for this. After a month, the young calathea will grow, and you can transplant it into a larger pot.

Education on the leaves brown spots- certificate of receipt by the plant sunburn or waterlogged soil. In the first case, rearrange the flower in a place where it will not have access to direct sunlight. In the second - change the irrigation scheme, check the soil for drying.

Spots on the leaves, dry edges - evidence of improper watering

Are the edges of the leaves brown and dry? This means that either the air in the apartment is dry, or the plant does not have enough watering, or you are using too hard water. To save the calathea, carefully cut off the dry ends, leaving a border and not touching the living tissue. Provide air humidity, check before the next watering how dry the earth is in the pot, use only soft, well-settled water at room temperature.

From direct exposure to bright sunlight, calathea leaves begin to curl and gradually turn pale, losing color contrast. Drafts can also cause leaves to curl. As soon as you notice such troubles, immediately rearrange the flower pot to a more comfortable place.

Calathea leaves curl from exposure to sunlight or lack of moisture

What to do if the calathea began to turn yellow? Take a closer look at the plant: if only the lower leaves turn yellow, then there is no reason to worry, this is the natural death of old tissues. These leaves can simply be cut off (it is better to do this when transplanting).

If the calathea turned yellow not only in the lower part, then there may be two reasons: or not proper watering, or an excess of fertilizer. We have already talked about how to stabilize soil moisture and ensure proper watering. As for fertilizers, most often calathea is enough ½ the dose indicated by the manufacturer, even during active growth. Do not overfeed the flower: this can cause rotting of young roots.

Yellowed leaves are the most common problem in caring for calathea.

If you are sure that you are watering and fertilizing the calathea correctly, and the leaves are still turning yellow, then the flower is freezing. Give him the right temperature.

There are 3 ways to breed Calathea:

• dividing the bush;
• cuttings;
• seeds.

The division of the bush

cuttings

This method is not as simple as the previous one. Not everyone manages to propagate calathea by cuttings, but you can try.

seeds

The most difficult, time-consuming and even unreliable way. Not all calathea seeds, even high-quality ones, can germinate.

Calathea seeds rarely germinate at home

1. When the calathea blooms, collect all the seeds from it. Sow them in bowls with soil consisting of 1 part of sand and 2 parts of leafy soil, after moistening it, lightly press down.
2. Cover the plantings with film or glass. Germination should take place at a temperature of +21...+25 °C. As soon as the seeds germinate, cover them with a 1 cm layer of soil.
3. When the first two leaves appear, dive the seedlings into boxes or pots with the same soil. A month later, they will get stronger and let out a few more leaves. At this stage, you can transplant the seedlings into separate pots.

Calathea- a bright representative of a family that is numerous in species diversity, called Marantovye. The homeland of calatheas is considered South America, where the plant grows in the second tier of humid forests of the tropics. It is the fact that in nature Calatheas hide from the scorching rays of the sun under the canopy of tall trees of the first forest tier, largely dictates the rules for caring for these whimsical beauties in indoor floriculture.

Previously, calathea was used as a material for the manufacture of wicker baskets, from which the name of this genus came from (from the Greek word "calathos" - basket)

Systematic position:
Department - Flowering (Magnoliophyta)
Class - Monocots (Liliopsida)
Order - Ginger (Zingiberales)
Family - Marantaceae (Marantaceae)
Genus - Calathea (Calathea)

Biological characteristic

Calatheas are herbaceous tuberous or rhizome perennials. Both tubers and rhizomes are, in fact, a reservoir of nutrients that help this plant survive adverse periods in the process of their growth and development.

The leaves of the kalats are located on elongated petioles, but their internodes are shortened, which visually gives the impression that the arrangement of the leaves is rosette (i.e., all the leaves come out of one point). The leaf blades of many representatives of this genus are brightly colored. The shape of the leaf in different types of kalats is very different from each other and varies from regular oval to elongated lanceolate, with a smooth or wavy edge. The uniqueness of calathea leaves lies in the fact that all of them, with rare exceptions, have a bright purple or pink reverse side.

The flowers of most types of calathea are inconspicuous, collected in compact spike-shaped inflorescences, having a wide variety of colors (from yellow to purple). Flowering period - early spring - mid-summer. With proper care, the plant can please with its abundant flowering for 2-3 weeks.

The main varieties of Calathea

In nature, more than 130 species of kalats are described. The species composition of indoor kalats is also striking in its diversity. Most of these plants are grown for their beautiful ornamental leaves. The only exception is the species Calathea saffron (Calathea crocata).

Calathea saffron(lat. Calathea Crocata)

This type of calathea is valued for its flowering. However, it is not the flowers that give the plant a decorative effect, but bright yellow-orange bracts, which are collected in a shortened thyroid inflorescence crowning elongated peduncles. Directly, the flowers of the saffron calathea are inconspicuous: tubular, dark orange with pink-red tips, and are located between the bracts. With proper care, this beauty blooms within 2-3 weeks.

Unlike its relatives, saffron calathea is an unassuming plant. It must be watered in a timely manner, sprayed once a day, cut and removed damaged leaves. Calathea saffron is very sensitive to sharp drops temperature and insolation from direct sunlight. Feeding requires only during the period of active growth. Propagated by division of the rhizome.

A feature of Calathea crocata is that it must be encouraged to bloom every year, creating for it a period of shortened days and elongated nights. This is done in several stages:

• In the evening (around 6:00 pm) place the plant pot in a dark (preferably black) bag, filling it with air first, which will help prevent the bag from touching the leaves of the plant.
• In the morning (around 8:00 AM) take the pot out of the bag.

This simple procedure provides the plant with a day period of 10 hours and a night period of 14 hours.

This must be done until you notice the appearance of the first flower stalks. This usually happens in late March - early April.

K. saffron

Calathea Makoya(lat. Calathea Makoyana)

This calathea looks no less decorative than the previous one, but is valued not for flowering, but for the unique pattern that covers the leaves of the plant. The drawing is an image of a rich green pen on a silvered background of the upper side of the sheet. The same drawing is displayed on its lower side, with the only difference being that the background is magenta. Caring for Calathea Makoya is no different from the standard care for representatives of this family. Calathea Makoya propagates by dividing the rhizome.

K. Makoya

Calathea round-leaved(lat. Calathea Rotundifolia)

It justifies its name with leathery leaves of a regular round shape of olive-green color, painted with light gray stripes. In care, special attention should be paid to the temperature regime and lighting regime. Categorically does not tolerate bright light, loves shade and weak partial shade. At temperatures below 16 ° C, the leaves begin to fall off, and the plant itself is deformed.

(lat. Calathea Zebrina)

The leaves of the striped calathea are velvety, elongated oval in shape with light green stripes decorating the main veins. Propagated by division of the rhizome. The plant is very demanding on the moisture regime. With insufficient air humidity, the leaf blade curls, the edges dry and the leaf dies.

K. striped

(lat. Calathea Veitchiana)

Enough large plant(up to 90 cm high) with glossy oval-shaped leaves that taper towards the outer edge. The pattern on the leaf is represented by emerald green stripes, dissecting the dark green leaf along its main veins. The reverse side of the leaf blade has a reddish-brown coloration. The flowers of Calathea Veitch are collected in a white-cream-colored inflorescence typical of this family.

K. Veitch

(lat. Calathea Warscewiczii)

This species has rather large velvety rich green leaves with pale green spots and stripes decorating the main vein. The reverse surface of the leaf blade has a dark red coloration. Calathea Varshevich before flowering forms elongated cranked shoots, for which it is necessary to substitute supports in order to avoid damage. Bracts of pale cream color, collected in a short inflorescence typical for this family, conceal small flowers of white, pinkish or pale cream shade.

K. Varshevich

Calathea Lubbers(lat. Calathea Lubbersii)

A distinctive feature of this type of calathea is that the rather large rich green leaves of this plant have an asymmetric light green pattern located on the sides of the central vein. The underside of the leaf differs from most representatives of this family in that it is colored green.

(lat. Calathea Ornata)

Calathea decorated is called so due to the fact that the leaves of the plant are painted first with pink, and then with silvery paired stripes. Calathea decorated has several forms that differ from each other in the main color of the leaf blade.

Propagated by division of the rhizome.

K. decorated

(lat. Calathea Insignis)

A distinctive feature of this calathea are long lanceolate glossy leathery leaves with yellow-green spots of various sizes, which alternate with each other.

K. wonderful

A species feature of all kalats is that the leaves of this plant are located almost horizontally and can change their position, striving for a light source. There is one more most interesting property calathea - a plant at night and before the rain folds the leaves and raises them to a vertical position, and lowers and unfolds in the morning. For this feature, the calathea is also called the "prayer flower."

Features of caring for calathea

Lighting

As already mentioned, calatheas in nature hide under the canopy of the leaves of the upper forest layer, therefore, at home, they do not tolerate direct scorching sunlight. The optimal location of the pot with the plant is the east or west window. However, if you are the owner of southern windows, do not despair. You just need to artificially shade the calathea in the spring and summer. If your windows face north, then you need to provide additional lighting with a fluorescent lamp (the total period of insolation should be 15-16 hours a day). You can evaluate the correctness of the selected lighting mode by the intensity of the color of the leaves of Calathea. With a favorable lighting regime, they will delight you with bright colors, color saturation; in low light, the leaves turn pale, the pattern on them becomes less expressive; with an excess of light, the leaves become smaller, fold into tubules, the pattern on them becomes less pronounced.

Temperature

Calatheas are very sensitive to temperature fluctuations, especially in winter. Since they are representatives of tropical flora, the optimal temperature range for growing them at home lies between 23–30 ° C (summer) and 18–23 ° C (winter). It is especially important to monitor the change in soil temperature: it should not be lower than 180 ° C (and in summer - below 200 ° C). Lowering the temperature below causes wilting and death of the plant. In addition, calatheas do not tolerate drafts.

Watering

The plant requires frequent watering as the top layer of soil in the pot dries out (in winter and autumn, the frequency of watering is reduced). The water used for irrigation should be settled, soft, and always at room temperature.

It should be noted that excessive moisture leads to swamping of the earthy coma, and due to the fact that a lack of oxygen is formed in the soil, the plant dies. Therefore, in the irrigation mode, be guided by the well-being of your calathea and its appearance: the plant should have shiny leaves with elastic turgor.

[!] As soon as you notice that the leaves of the calathea wither and lose their density, or that they are wound up on an earthy coma small midges change the watering schedule immediately.

Air humidity

Calatheas are representatives of tropical rainforests, so they require frequent spraying. Spray water should also be soft and warm (room temperature). The spraying regimen depends on the season: in winter and autumn it is enough to spray the plant once a day, in summer and spring - 2 times. But one should take into account the fact that when spraying it is necessary to choose a finely dispersed sprayer, since large drops of water on the leaves cause them to rot and the plant to die.

In addition, moss (expanded clay, pebbles, etc.) can be placed in the tray of a calathea pot and constantly moistened. This will be a source of additional moisture for the plant.

Calatheas feel very comfortable in florariums and terrariums, where air humidity is always increased due to the closed space.

Fertilizer

Calatheas are not very picky about feeding. However, if you want the plant to please you with abundant and long flowering, you need to fertilize it with a universal fertilizer for indoor flowers once every 2-3 weeks (spring and summer) and once every 5-6 weeks (autumn and winter).

The plant does not tolerate if calcium and nitrogen accumulate in the substrate in excessive proportions.

Transfer

Calatheas have a surface-type root system, so they do not require a deep pot. The pot must be chosen small, shallow, preferably ceramic (this will protect the roots of plants from hypothermia on the windowsill in winter). Transplantation is done every spring in a slightly larger pot than the previous one. A prerequisite is a good drainage layer. The soil is used either ready-made (for arrowroot and calathea), or they form it themselves from 6 parts of leafy soil, 3 parts of peat and 2 parts of sand. You can use the soil mixture for Saintpaulia, but with the addition of sand.