What do watermelons love when grown. How to plant a watermelon to get large, sweet fruits

• Where to grow watermelons
• When to grow watermelons
• How to care for a watermelon
• When to Harvest

Watermelon is a tasty and healthy berry that pleases children and adults with its juicy pulp. You can grow watermelon in central Russia. This melon culture is very thermophilic, however, in order to grow large and sweet fruits, you need to observe a lot of nuances. So, let's talk about everything in order.

Where to grow watermelons

A place for growing watermelons must be selected very carefully. It should be a sunny area without trees or shade. Watermelons grow best in sandy and sandy loamy soils because watermelon roots penetrate deep into the soil to absorb moisture and fill with sweetness. That is why the soil for growing watermelons should not be clayey and dense. To make the soil more porous, it is first dug (since autumn). The acidity of the soil of the selected area should not exceed 6.5-7 units.

It is best to choose the soil for planting in which crops such as onions, potatoes, carrots, cabbage, beans, wheat grew. You should not grow gourds two years in a row in the same area. The soil is pre-cleaned of weeds, watermelon does not like extraneous vegetation.

When to grow watermelons

If the summer turns out to be cold, no tricks will help to grow a juicy and sweet fruit. But if there are many sunny and hot days in a year, be prepared for a good harvest. It is best to start planting watermelons at the end of May, when the soil is already sufficiently warmed up by the sun. If you decide to plant seedlings, then the seeds can be planted in cups in early May. However, the last word, anyway, the weather. If in the first decade of May the heat did not come, you should not rush into landing.

How to prepare seeds for planting watermelons

Consider two main ways of planting watermelons - seedling and seedless.

Seedling method of planting watermelons
Watermelon has very dense and hard seeds that must be soaked beforehand. To do this, pour the seeds with warm water and leave for half an hour. Those seeds that have surfaced after the specified time are not suitable for planting - we immediately remove them. After that, you need to cover the container with a plastic bag and leave it in a warm place (in direct sunlight). It turns out an imitation of a greenhouse. It is best if the temperature in the mini-greenhouse does not fall below 25-30 degrees during the day, and below 20 degrees at night.

When the seeds hatch, they can be planted in a cup. This is usually done in late April or early May. Cups need to be chosen large enough so that the root system is spacious. Watermelon does not tolerate root damage. The soil for planting must be mixed with humus and mineral fertilizers. In the process of growing seedlings, you need to feed the sprouts with fertilizers several more times. Two seeds are usually planted in one cup, with the expectation that suddenly some will not germinate. If both sprouts grow, they are then separated.

Seedlings for planting are ready when the sprout gains at least three healthy leaves. Planting seedlings takes place in loosened soil, fertilized with compost. Watermelon seedlings should be planted at a distance of at least 20 cm from each other. If two sprouts are planted in one hole, you need to rotate them so that they grow in different directions. Seedlings should not be planted too deep into the ground - the recesses should not exceed 10 cm. The leaves of the sprouts must remain on the surface. After planting, the sprouts should be poured with plenty of warm water so that they start better.

A seedless way to plant watermelons

If the days are already warm enough, you can plant watermelons in a seedless way. To do this, they, just like in the previous planting method, must be soaked in warm water and leave the seeds to hatch. When small sprouting sprouts appear, you can bypass the stage of planting sprouts in cups and sow the seeds directly into the soil. I would like to note once again that a reckless method of planting watermelons is feasible only if the long-term weather forecast does not portend cold weather.

Seeds should be planted in holes at a distance of 20-25 cm, 2 seeds per hole. To get a good harvest, you can prepare the following mixture. Mix soil, ash and humus in a ratio of one to one. Add a few tablespoons of nitroamophoska mineral fertilizer to the mixture. In each well, before planting the sprouts, lay out one tablespoon of the prepared mixture. Place watermelon seeds on top of the mixture, and then sprinkle with humus. This is done so that the top layer of soil is not covered with a crust. As it was said, watermelon loves loose soil, and the sprout simply cannot break through a thick crust.

How to care for a watermelon

Although watermelon is considered a fairly unpretentious crop, in order to get a good harvest, you need to follow some aspects in caring for watermelon.

How to take care of watermelon

• Imitation of a greenhouse. Until the sprouts have grown stronger, you need to cover them with a covering material. This will allow them to gain strength and bear fruit a few weeks ahead of schedule. To create such a small greenhouse, stick small sticks on the sides of the beds and cover with a thick plastic wrap. Keep the greenhouse until the end of June. It is better to shoot film on a gloomy day when there is no sun. This will allow the plants to adapt better. If you remove the film on a sunny day, the sprouts can simply burn out.
• Watering. Watermelon does not like over watering as it feeds on inland waters. It has a powerful root system that takes water from the lower layers of the soil when needed. But the plant should not be overdried, otherwise the fruits will not differ in juiciness. The optimal frequency of watering is once or twice a week.
• Fertilizers. A week after planting the seeds, they need to be fed with ammonium nitrate. To prepare the solution, you need to dilute 20 grams of the substance in ten liters of water. After the first feeding, watermelons should be fertilized every three weeks, using the usual mineral complex. Along with fertilizers, you need to constantly hill the soil. Watermelon vitally needs loose soil. In general, gardeners advise walking less near the holes and not compacting the ground. Especially, in the intervals between planted sprouts. The root system of a watermelon is quite sprawling, but also quite fragile. Stepping on loose soil near the hole, you can damage the root of the plant.
• Molding. This is an important part of caring for a watermelon planting. If the whips are very long, they can be tied to posts or nailed with earth so that they are not damaged by the wind. In a month, ovaries will begin to form. When they become the size of a large plum, you need to leave only the largest - a few pieces. This is called pinching. This procedure is carried out for the following purpose. When a plant has many fruits, it expends its energy on each fruit. Thus, we will get a lot of unripe and small fruits. To get good and tasty fruits, you need to remove a few ovaries at the very beginning of their growth. Usually no more than 5-6 watermelon fruits are left from one bush. Moreover, on one lash there should not be more than two ovaries.

In the second half of summer, when watermelons begin to ripen, they can be carefully turned from one side to the other every 10 days. This will allow them to quickly gain flavor and juice. If the soil under the watermelons rots, you need to put small planks under the fruits to reduce the area of ​​\u200b\u200bcontact between the watermelon and the ground.

When to Harvest

Harvested in August. To understand that a watermelon is ripe, you need to carefully consider it. Ripe fruits are distinguished by a shiny skin, as well as a dry tail. The stalk of a ripe watermelon is not hairy. If you knock on a watermelon, a ripe fruit gives out a characteristic dull sound, by which experienced gardeners understand - it's time to harvest!

In watermelon-rich years, about 10 plants can be grown from six holes. About 40 fruits of various sizes and weights grow and ripen from them. With proper care and sufficient light and moisture, 90% of them ripen completely.

What could be tastier and more enjoyable than enjoying a watermelon grown by yourself? Follow all the rules of planting, care and feeding to grow a rich watermelon crop.

In recent years, a huge number of hybrids and varieties of watermelon have appeared that are suitable for cultivation in open ground conditions, not only in the southern regions, but also in cold climates. To grow melons and gourds in your country house, you need to put a lot of effort and skill. The secrets of preparing seeds, planting and caring for seedlings will help to fulfill the dream, which will result in a large and sweet watermelon.

Site preparation

Choosing a place is an important stage in planting a watermelon, which largely determines its further growth and yield:

• watermelon loves places with a lot of light, in shading conditions it does not develop well and will not be able to produce high yields. For planting, sunny areas are allocated that must be protected from the wind;
• due to the highly developed root system, watermelons are highly drought-resistant; planting in places with close groundwater is unacceptable for it;
• for the cultivation of gourds, light sandy or sandy soils with neutral acidity are most suitable. In areas with acidic soil, watermelon produces small fruits that crack while still green.

These plants are undemanding to soil fertility, they grow well both on black soil and on poor sandy and stony soils. Still, well-cultivated plots are needed to obtain large yields. To do this, in the fall, the place of the future planting is dug up and fertilizers are applied:

• superphosphate, azofoska (according to instructions);
• wood ash (1 l);
• humus (5 l).

The calculation is given for 1 m 2 of the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site. Fertilizing before planting eliminates the need for regular top dressing during the growing season of the plant.

For watermelon, you need to choose a well-lit place

Step-by-step instructions for planting a watermelon

In order for the preparation and planting of watermelon seeds to proceed correctly, the following steps should be followed.

Seed selection

This is a crucial period of preparation for sowing watermelon, as it largely determines the success of growing and obtaining fruits. A variety of varieties and hybrids allows you to choose a plant that is most adapted to the cultivation conditions in your area. Between themselves, watermelons can differ in large or small fruits, the speed of their ripening, and have different resistance to diseases.

Pre-sowing preparation of seeds

Preparation of seeds for sowing is an important stage in the cultivation of vegetable crops, especially for home cultivation, since in conditions of limited space, the requirements for plant selection increase.

Calibration

Sorting seeds by size allows you to choose the best of them, reject small and damaged ones. The selection is usually carried out manually: the seed is scattered on a smooth surface and divided into large, medium and small. Large seeds, as a rule, contain a large supply of nutrients, which will subsequently provide plants with good growth and high yields.

For sowing, choose the largest seeds

Heating and soaking

Warming and soaking increases the rate of biochemical reactions in cells, which improves seed germination, the formation of more female flowers, good growth and development of lashes.

Procedure:

1. The inoculum is poured into a cloth bag and immersed in warm water (50–60°C) for 2–3 hours.
2. Then transferred for half an hour for disinfection in a slightly warmed weak solution of potassium permanganate.
3. The bag is taken out, allowed to drain excess moisture.
4. Seeds are laid out on wet sand, a cotton or paper substrate and left in a warm room. They are kept at room temperature for about 2 days until seedlings appear.

If you bought treated seeds, they should not be soaked and should be planted directly in the ground.

Germination of watermelon seeds for planting in open ground or for seedlings

hardening

To increase the resistance of plants to sharp fluctuations in temperature and to obtain an earlier and more abundant harvest, seed hardening is carried out. Most often, seed is affected in two ways:

• exposure to constant low temperatures. Within 1–2 days, swollen and hatched watermelon seeds are kept in a refrigerator at a temperature of 0±1°C with occasional stirring. Such hardening can also be carried out by burying the seed in a small box or bag in the snow;
• exposure to variable temperature. The swollen seeds are kept in the refrigerator for about 12 hours at a temperature not lower than 6 ° C, then they should be kept warm at a temperature of 18–20 ° C for the same period of time. The procedure is repeated three times.

Before sowing, the seeds are slightly dried.

Selection of containers and soil

To avoid further transplantation or picking, the seeds are sown in separate pots or containers with a volume of at least 300 ml (minimum container height - 12 cm, diameter - 10 cm). For planting, a soil mixture is prepared, into which sand, turf and peat are added in equal proportions. To 5 liters of prepared soil add:

• dolomite flour and potassium sulfate (50 g);
• double superphosphate (100 g);
• ammonium nitrate (50 g).

Seedling containers are filled with a mixture so that about 3 cm remains between the surface of the soil and the edge of the pot. As the plants grow, the earth can be poured into the pot.

To avoid further transplanting or picking, the seeds are sown in separate pots.

Sowing watermelon seeds

To know how to plant a watermelon correctly, depending on climatic conditions, sowing is done through seedlings or directly into open ground.

Sowing seeds for seedlings

The best time for planting is mid-late April. Germinated seeds with a root of 1–1.5 cm are sown to a depth of 3 cm, 4–5 pieces in each container, sprinkled with earth on top, watered and covered with glass or film. The pots are placed on the brightest window, preferably the south one.

It is important that there are no drafts in the room.

Germinated seeds with a root of 1–1.5 cm are sown to a depth of 3 cm, 4–5 pieces in each container.

Planting seeds in open ground

Prepared seeds can be sown directly in open ground only in southern regions with a warm climate. The optimal time for planting is when the air temperature is set within 12–14 ° C, and the soil warms up to a depth of 10 cm. It is better to sow in the last decade of May, at which time the probability of a cold snap is significantly reduced. In cold soil, seed germination time increases, as a result of which seedlings may die or become infected with pathogenic microflora. For planting a watermelon, a hole is prepared with a diameter of about 1 m and a depth of at least 30 cm, they bring into it:

• humus or compost (1 kg);
• ash (1 tablespoon);
• nitroammophosphate (1 tsp);
• sand is additionally added to heavy soil, everything is mixed.

Sprouted seeds of watermelons are sown in the prepared holes. Prior to this, approximately 2 liters of water are poured into the seed planting site. After it is absorbed, 4–5 seeds are laid out to a depth of 3–6 cm, the hole is covered with earth and compacted. The bed after sowing is not watered. To avoid the appearance of a crust, which makes it difficult for sprouts to reach the surface, the soil is mulched with humus.

Young seedlings need a lot of water, so they are watered abundantly as the soil dries out, but not more than 1 time in 7 days. The required depth of soil moisture is at least 25–30 cm. Soon after the emergence of sprouts, the first thinning is carried out, leaving the strongest plants, in the phase of 3–4 true leaves, the procedure is repeated. As a result, 1-2 plants should remain in the hole.

Watermelon grown by direct seeding into the ground is more resistant to stresses, including drought and temperature changes, but the crop will always ripen later than that of a seedling crop.

A hole for sowing watermelon seeds in open ground is prepared with a diameter of about 1 m, the soil in it is mixed with humus and mineral fertilizers to a depth of about 30 cm

seedling care

In order for plants in pots to grow and develop well, they create optimal conditions:

• daytime temperature should be around 25°C, at night it is lowered to 20°C. Under these conditions, sprouts will appear in 7-10 days;
• the required length of daylight is at least 12 hours. The lack of lighting contributes to the elongation of seedlings and can cause their death; on cloudy days, it is recommended to highlight the plants with a phytolamp;
• after the seedlings have risen, the weak ones are removed, leaving one sprout;
• watering seedlings is carried out in several steps, avoiding water on the leaves;
• in phase 3 of true leaves, the plant is fed with fermented mullein mixed with water in a ratio of 1:10 (or liquid complex fertilizer).

Subject to these rules, seedlings will grow strong and healthy and will easily take root in a new place.

After culling weak seedlings, one plant should remain in the pot

Transplanting seedlings in open ground

By the time the seedlings are transplanted to the garden, their age is 30–35 days, the plant has at least 4 leaves. 10 days before transplanting to the site, the seedlings are hardened: they are taken out into the open air, increasing the residence time every day. For 3-4 days before planting in the ground, the plants are kept outdoors, and in the evening before transplanting, they are watered abundantly.

After hardening, watermelon seedlings become more resistant to temperature fluctuations.

In mid-June, plants are planted in a permanent place. The transplant is carried out in the morning: the watermelon, together with the earthy clod, is removed from the container, planted in the hole, then watered and covered with a film. The root neck of the seedlings is not deepened.

After planting the seedlings, the earthen ball should be completely covered with soil, the root collar of the watermelon should be left open

Video: transplanting seedlings of watermelons in open ground

Watermelon planting time according to the lunar calendar for 2020

In order for the plant to grow and develop well, it is important not only to prepare the soil, but also to choose the right time for planting. Often vegetable growers resort to the help of the lunar calendar. Auspicious dates for 2020:

• planting on March 3, 10 and 11 will most positively affect the growth of melons;
• in April, the favorable time for planting seedlings are the 9th, 15th and 23rd;
• in May, watermelons are recommended to be planted on the 13th, 14th and 20th;
• planting garden crops is undesirable on the days of the new moon and full moon:
  • April 8 and 25,
  • 7 and 22 May.

Scheme and planting depth

There are different schemes for planting watermelons in open ground, their choice is influenced by:

• cultivation method (watering or without artificial irrigation). Plants grown without watering occupy a smaller area, so they can be placed more densely;
• watermelon variety (early or late ripening);
• estimated fetal weight (3-5 kg ​​or more than 8 kg). The higher the planting density of watermelons, the smaller the fruits will grow.

When planting watermelons, it is taken into account that the plants grow widely and should not interfere with each other:

• in the garden, early varieties are placed at a distance of 1.4x1.4 m or 1.4x0.7 m;
• watermelons of mid-season and late-ripening varieties are planted according to the scheme 2x2 m; 2.1x1.4 m; 2.1x1 m.

The smaller number shows the distance between plants when planting, the larger one - between rows.

The higher the planting density of watermelons, the smaller the fruits will grow.

The depth of planting seed in open ground can vary from 3 to 8 cm and depends on:

• on their size (the smaller the seed, the smaller the planting depth);
• type of soil (on light soils, the incorporation is deeper than on heavy soils);
• soil moisture (seeds spread on a moistened layer).

Seedlings are planted a little deeper than when growing in a pot, so that the root neck is not damaged by winds.

Neighbors and predecessors

To guarantee a good harvest of gourds, you need not only to follow the rules of planting, but also to know about the compatibility of plants with each other:

• watermelon does not tolerate gusty winds. To create shelter, corn, peas, or beans are planted around the site;
• all members of the pumpkin family, including watermelon, are compatible with black radish plantings. This plant secretes phytoncides that prevent the appearance of spider mites;
• melon is an excellent neighbor of watermelon;
• it is well compatible with potatoes and oat root;
• corn and peas improve the growth and taste of watermelons;
• thistle and gauze contribute to the growth of melons;
• watermelon grows well next to plantings of greens (parsley is an exception);
• phytoncides of tomatoes drive away aphids, sawflies and moths.

All representatives of gourds grow very strongly, so next to them it is better to plant crops that give an early harvest.

Planting some plants next to a watermelon negatively affects its growth and productivity, so the choice of neighbors must be approached responsibly:

• gourds grow well in open, sunny areas, so they are not planted next to trees and shrubs that shade the area;
• watermelon does not like the neighborhood of strawberries and nightshade representatives (potatoes, tomatoes, eggplant, peppers);
• it extracts a large amount of minerals from the soil, so growing watermelon next to beets, carrots, garlic and radishes is not recommended;
• watermelons should not be planted together with related plants - pumpkins or zucchini, as well as cucumbers.

An important agricultural technique is crop rotation. When alternating gourds with a frequency of 3–4 years, the number of pests and diseases, as well as weeds, is significantly reduced on the field. It is not recommended to grow watermelon in the same field for more than 2 years in a row, the optimal predecessors for it are:

• winter wheat,
• perennial herbs,
• corn for green fodder,
• radish,
• dill,
• basil,
• tomatoes,
• celery,
• roots,
• cabbage.

It is strongly not recommended to plant gourds in the area where melons, squash or zucchini previously grew. After harvesting watermelon fruits, it is better to plant this area with legumes (green beans, peas) or garlic.

Methods for planting watermelons on the site

Depending on the climatic conditions of the region and the availability of free space, watermelons are grown in different ways.

in a bucket

In this way, watermelon can be grown at home. To do this, first seedlings are grown in a small pot. Further work is carried out as follows:

1. Prepare a bucket with a volume of 16 liters (you can use a wooden box measuring 50x50x30 cm).
2. The container is filled with fertile soil with neutral acidity, mixed with perlite in a ratio of 2: 1. This will protect the soil from standing water.
3. After the third true leaf appears in the seedlings, the plant, together with an earthy clod, is transplanted into a bucket.
4. The optimum daytime temperature is 25–30°C, at night it is 18–20°C. Such conditions are created in spring and summer on a closed balcony.
5. Watering should be moderate, watermelon does not like waterlogging.
6. Fertilize the soil every 2 weeks. Liquid fertilizers for vegetables are suitable for this (add 1 tsp of fertilizer to 1 liter of water). For irrigation prepare only a fresh solution.
7. At the stage of formation of the ovary, a second top dressing is carried out with an increased content of potassium and phosphorus, and after 2-3 weeks - the third.
8. The side shoots of the watermelon are pinched, leaving only the main lash.
9. In the flowering phase of watermelon, artificial pollination is carried out: male flowers with stamens are plucked, petals are removed and female flowers (with a thickening at the bottom) are pollinated, touching the pistils with stamens.
10. After fruit set, no more than two berries are left on the plant, the rest are removed.
11. Fruits about 10 cm in size are placed in a net and tied to a support.

After about three months, you can harvest delicious berries weighing about 1 kg.

According to the author, this method can be considered more like a hobby than a way to get a tasty berry. In an apartment, it is unlikely to provide the plant with optimal temperature conditions, except perhaps during the hot summer on the balcony. A home-grown watermelon is unlikely to please with the aroma and sweetness of the pulp. For those who still decide to experiment, I advise you to make a drainage hole at the bottom of the tank to protect the roots from waterlogging. And to determine whether a watermelon needs watering, it can be recommended to slightly raise the bucket with the plant, guided by its weight and soil moisture.

On the trellis

In the southern regions, gourds are cultivated in open ground, in which case they do not require a garter. When grown in northern regions with a cool and humid climate, trellises can be used. This is especially true for small areas where there is little light and moisture stagnation is likely. In such places it is recommended to grow watermelons of small-fruited hybrids and varieties:

1. On both sides, the beds are dug along a support at least 1.5 m high, ropes or twine are pulled between them.
2. Other ropes are tied to the stretched ropes, which descend to the plants and serve as a support for the stems of the watermelon, determining the direction of growth.
3. The end of the lowered rope is fixed on the stem of the plant or on the ground.
4. The main stem is tied up in a vertical direction, the top is not pinched. All side shoots are removed, as female flowers are formed mainly on the main stem.
5. The grown fruits are placed in nets, then individually tied to a trellis so that they do not fall under their own weight.

With the formation of 2-3 fruits the size of a chicken egg, the remaining ovaries are removed, since more watermelons will not have time to ripen.

The trellis is relevant for small areas where there is little light and moisture stagnation is likely.

Under cover material

The cultivation of watermelons under covering material has become especially popular at the present time. Additional costs for the film are offset by the advantages of this technology, including:

• protection of seedlings from weeds in the early stages of growth in the open field;
• reduction of diurnal temperature fluctuations;
• accumulation and preservation of soil moisture.

The use of covering material allows you to reduce the period of fruit ripening by 7-10 days. This method is especially relevant in conditions of a short or humid summer and can be used in several ways:

Spunbond can be used to cover plants directly along the lashes, protecting them from possible frosts.

Features of planting watermelons in different regions

Watermelon is a heat-loving crop that needs a fairly long growing season. This should be taken into account when cultivating in regions with different climatic conditions.

In the southern regions (southern Ukraine, the Krasnodar Territory, the republics of Transcaucasia), watermelons are traditionally grown in an open way, which is facilitated by a large number of warm and sunny days necessary for the vegetation of the plant and the rapid development of fruits. After preparation for sowing, the seeds are planted directly in open ground.

In the northern regions of Ukraine, the amount of heat is not enough to ripen the fruits, so watermelon seedlings are grown first.

In regions with a moderately cold and harsh climate (Leningrad region, Moscow region, Siberia, the Far East), the harvest of watermelons will always be moderate. To obtain it, you must strictly follow some rules:

• for planting choose only early ripening varieties;
• to ensure acceptable temperatures, watermelons are grown in greenhouses, and in the middle zone - also in open ground under a film (spread);
• planting is done through seedlings in pots;
• so that the roots grow in width, watering the plants is carried out not under the root, but along the grooves dug in the middle of the aisle;
• no more than 5-6 fruits are left on one plant, for large berries - 1-2 fruits, a plank is placed under each one so that they do not rot in cool conditions.

For cultivation in the northern regions, only early-ripening varieties of watermelons are chosen:

• for the Moscow region:
  • Sugar baby (Sugar baby),
  • Crimson Sweet,
  • Skorik,
  • spark,
  • Producer,
  • Astrakhan,
  • top gun
  • Chill;
• for the Leningrad region:
  • Kharkiv,
  • spark,
  • Rose of the Southeast
  • early maturing;
• for the Urals - the same varieties as for the Moscow region, as well as:
  • Pink Champagne F1,
  • Gift to the North F1,
  • Crimstar;
• for Siberia and the Far East:
  • Crimson Wonder,
  • Crimson Sweet,
  • ultra early,
  • spark,
  • Siberian.

The average fruit ripening period for the middle lane is about 70-80 days, the fruits are medium-sized - from 2 kg to 4-6 kg.

Hard work and knowledge of planting and caring for watermelons will surely reward you with tasty and healthy berries. You can grow watermelon even in the northern regions, you just need to choose the right variety and not be too lazy to make a shelter.

The best watermelons are brought from the southern regions, but you can get a good harvest of this huge striped berry in the conditions of the Moscow region; watermelons are planted even in the Leningrad region. It turns out that this is not difficult to do, you just need to know the basics of melon growing and make a little work. The basic operations are familiar to every gardener, and only a too cold summer can be an obstacle.

plant description

Watermelon belongs to the gourd family and is an annual plant. Most varieties have a long creeping stem that extends up to two meters. The leaves are dark green in color, large, with a strong dissection. The fruit according to the biological classification is a berry, very large, usually spherical in shape. In some varieties, it is not a ball, but an elongated torpedo-shaped berry. The mass of the fetus is significant: it can range from 500 g to 20 kg. Watermelon bark has various shades of green; most often it is covered with dark or light stripes, but it can also be monophonic. The flesh is juicy, in most cases red or dark pink, but there are varieties with an orange or yellow core. There are usually a lot of seeds, they are large, 1–2 cm long, flat, hard, black or brown.

How watermelon grows

The main part of the watermelon harvest is obtained in the subtropical zone, much less in the temperate climate. In Russia, watermelon is grown mainly in the Lower Volga region and the North Caucasus, but amateur gardeners are promoting the culture much further north. Watermelon comes from the African continent. This culture tolerates heat and drought, it needs warmth and bright sunlight. However, watermelon normally tolerates short cold snaps, is undemanding to the composition of the soil. The roots are able to suck water from considerable depths, so watermelon is able to grow even in conditions of moisture deficiency. At the same time, it responds well to artificial irrigation, which, in combination with planting on light sandy loamy soils, produces fruits of very high quality.

Watermelon should be in the sun, and adult plants get water for themselves

Application

Watermelon is good for people of all ages. Its juice is dominated by simple, easily digestible sugars - glucose and fructose, and in terms of the content of the latter, it is one of the champions among cultivated plants. Watermelon contains various organic acids, including folic acid, which is of great importance for the human body. Watermelon contributes to the regulation of fat metabolism, which determines its use in medicine and nutrition, contains iron salts and other trace elements. There is even the concept of a watermelon diet.

Watermelon is consumed mostly fresh, being a wonderful summer dessert. It can be eaten in an almost unlimited amount, although doctors warn against excesses in the presence of certain diseases. At the same time, during the mass harvest, watermelons are also used for various preparations. You can make juice from them, and when the latter is slowly evaporated, you can get honey-nardek. Very tasty candied watermelon is known. There are many lovers of salted and canned watermelons: small fruits, including those that are not quite ripe, are used for such blanks.

Varieties

All known varieties of watermelon are conditionally divided into early, mid-ripening and late. If we talk about our country, then late varieties (for example, Spring, Icarus, Kholodok) make sense to plant only in the southernmost regions; in Central Russia, only early varieties, such as Victoria, Skorik, Ogonyok, have time to fully ripen. Varieties of medium maturity (Lezheboka, Ataman, etc.) occupy an intermediate position. Among the "classic" varieties of watermelon, the most popular are the following.

• Ogonyok is an extremely popular early ripe variety, known since the times of the USSR. The fruits are small (about 2 kg), the seeds in them are very small, and the pulp has an excellent delicate taste. The bark is thin, its color is black-green with a blurred pattern. The variety is able to fully mature in the Central Black Earth, East Siberian and Far Eastern regions.
• Kholodok is one of the most famous varieties of late-ripening watermelons. The fruits are stored for more than 3 months, the variety is very productive, has an excellent taste. Kholodok appeared in the early 1990s, intended for planting in the North Caucasus and Lower Volga regions. The bush is very powerful, with long (up to 5 meters) lashes, moderately resistant to diseases. The fruit is somewhat elongated, weighing about 4 kg, dark green with almost black stripes. Watermelon cannot be called thin-skinned, but it is well transported and stored. The flesh of the watermelon is bright red, very sweet, tender.
• Shuga baby - a variety included in the State Register not so long ago, is intended for the Central Black Earth region, but can be grown further north, as it easily tolerates cold weather, including in the spring. Variety of ultra-early ripening. The bush and leaves are medium in size, the fruit is round and rather small: the bulk of the specimens reach a mass of 1 kg, and only a few grow up to 4 kg. The fruit is thin-skinned, striped, the outside of the usual dark green color. The pulp is dark red in color, with very small seeds. Taste qualities are characterized as excellent. Since "Suga baby" is translated as "Sugar Baby", you can find a description of the variety under both names on the network, which can cause some confusion. So, describing the "Sugar Baby", they indicate that it is recommended for severe weather conditions, including for cultivation in Siberia, since it is extremely resistant to low temperatures. However, there is no variety under such (Russian) name in the State Register, but at the same time, the main part of the description corresponds to both Russian and English names. Variety of universal purpose: good not only fresh, but also in salting. Easily transfers transportation.
• Crimson Sweet is one of the trendy varieties grown in most European countries, of French origin. Watermelon of ultra-early ripening, but in its segment - one of the most large-fruited. Spherical fruits weigh an average of 10 kg, and can grow even larger. Coloring - classic watermelon, striped (lighter stripes on a dark green background), the flesh is dark red, without veins, very sweet and tasty, crispy. The fruits are transportable, well stored, and the plants themselves are drought and disease resistant.

Photo gallery: popular varieties of watermelons

Ogonyok is a well-deserved early variety that grows in almost all regions. Kholodok enters the shelves in September and can delight with its taste for several months. Sugar baby ripens very quickly, so it is planted in almost all regions.

In addition to those listed in this list, in recent years, various exotic varieties that do not fit into the familiar image of a striped berry with a red interior filled with numerous seeds have enjoyed certain popularity. So, for example, there is a very expensive and scarce black watermelon. The Densuke variety is grown in Japan. Outside, it is completely black, glossy, without stripes, weighs 5–7 kg, and inside contains the usual-looking bright red flesh. True, gourmets who have tried it describe the taste not just as sweet, but as magnificent. At the same time, in Russia there are also domestic, very inexpensive, varieties that look like Densuke. Such, for example, are the Black Prince or the Black Excellent. They may not be as tasty, but they are not so expensive on the market either.

Densuke black watermelon is very expensive, but is it legal - gourmets decide

In recent years, yellow-fleshed watermelons have come into fashion. These are hybrid plants; Outwardly, they are no different from traditional watermelons, but inside they are yellow. There are almost no seeds in them (and sometimes not at all), the taste is very different from the usual. The pulp may contain flavors of mango, lemon, pineapple and other southern fruits. So, for example, about 10 years ago, Lunny watermelon was included in the State Register of the Russian Federation. Like all other yellow watermelons, it is characterized by early ripening. The bush is of medium size, elliptical in shape, the fruit is small: its weight is from 2 to 3 kg. Outside striped, but the flesh is light yellow, tender, excellent taste. Capable of short-term storage (about a month).

Lunar on the outside is an ordinary watermelon, but inside it looks very unusual

Already in the middle of the last century, varieties of watermelons with a complete absence of seeds were bred. As a rule, such watermelons are sweeter, the shape of most varieties is oblong, and the mass is relatively small (about 4 kg).

A reasonable question: how to plant seedless watermelons? To do this, seeds are obtained by special crossing with other varieties, but this procedure leads to the fact that growing a seedless watermelon is somewhat more difficult than a regular one.

Seedless hybrids are, for example, Imbar F1, Regus F1, Boston F1. Thus, watermelon Boston F1 is included in the State Register of the Russian Federation and recommended for cultivation in the North Caucasus region. Refers to early ripe hybrids, forms a long-branched bush. The fruit is spherical, light green, with narrow inconspicuous stripes. The usual weight is up to 4 kg, some representatives grow up to 10 kg, thin-skinned. The pulp is tasty, pink-red color. The fruits are well transported, but are stored for no more than two weeks after harvest.

Reviews of some varieties

Last year I decided to try to grow a watermelon in KALININGRAD for the sake of "pampering"! I chose the early variety "Spark" of the company "Siberian Gardener". Germination was 100%. Left only 2 pieces, the most active. Monthly sprouts landed in a greenhouse. They fit well with the tomatoes in the neighborhood))) Not climbing, I didn’t even have to remove the excess))) Soon 2 Watermelons appeared on each plant. He went on to crawl and bloom, but I pinched the whole thing, they would not have had time to ripen. By the end of August 3 watermelons were ripe. The fourth has not yet matured. Small in size but heavy. The flesh is orange-yellow. Juicy. Few bones! In general, I am completely delighted!!!

"Julia773"

https://otzovik.com/review_5744757.html

I never became friends with Kholodok in two seasons. He waved his hand at it, although, if it worked out, you can save it until the New Year. Even if there is no good cellar-basement, then on the glazed loggia it lies until slight frosts. And what a taste Kholodok has - watermelon for all watermelons.

"German"

http://dacha.wcb.ru/index.php?showtopic=47904&st=1280

And I like Suga Baby or sugar baby, watermelons are not very large, but very sweet and tasty.

Ninyurev

http://forum.prihoz.ru/viewtopic.php?t=1991&start=945

Crimson suite is an early ripening variety, for Siberia it’s the very thing !!!, consistently producing even if not such large watermelons (at the moment the largest is 4 kg), but in past years, it seems to me, there were up to 6–7 kg , - I didn’t weigh it, since I bought the scales only last fall for the daily weighing of my “champion”. It seems that the weight of watermelons could be increased by a small normalization.

Ukolova

http://vinforum.ru/index.php?topic=349.0

Growing watermelon seedlings

In the south and in most areas of the Lower Volga region, watermelons can be grown by direct sowing of seeds in open ground, but in regions that are not warm enough for this crop, preliminary seedling preparation is necessary. Sometimes seedlings have to be grown in the south, if there is a desire to get the fruits of the latest varieties.

Planting seeds for seedlings

If the seeds are purchased in a specialized store and the manufacturer is not in doubt, pre-treatment of the seeds is not required. But if the seeds are taken from a watermelon bought for food, one must be careful. Firstly, it may turn out to be a hybrid, and then nothing good will come of it. Secondly, the seeds can carry hidden signs of diseases, so they must at least be disinfected. There is no need to check the seeds for germination: they are good for at least 6 years in a watermelon, but it is worth choosing the largest ones.

For disinfection, the seeds are soaked for 20–30 minutes in a dark solution of potassium permanganate, and then washed with water. When growing watermelon in the central region and in the north, it is advisable to harden the seeds (hold for about 12 hours in a damp cloth in the refrigerator). This stage will help in the prevention against most diseases. If you do nothing, you can just soak the seeds before planting, but soaking will only give a two-day advantage in seedling speed, can be sown dry.

Watermelon seeds are easy to handle: they are quite large

Based on the possible timing of planting 35-day seedlings in open ground or a greenhouse, it turns out that it is necessary to sow seeds for seedlings in the middle or end of April (depending on the region). Since watermelons are painful to transplant, it is better to immediately sow the seeds in separate cups with a capacity of at least 250 ml and a depth of about 10 cm (it is best to use peat pots). In extreme cases, it is possible to pre-sow in a common box, followed by careful seating in pots. Soil - a mixture of equal parts garden soil, sand, humus and peat, or a store-bought mixture.

Before sowing, the soil is slightly moistened and the seeds are buried to a depth of about 3 cm, pouring a layer of clean sand of 0.5–1 cm on top. cm.

seedling care

Seedlings are easy to care for. Immediately after germination, the "garden" should be placed in the bright sun and lower the temperature to about 18 ° C, and after a few days return it to 22 ° C during the day and 18 ° C at night. In the future, it is necessary to monitor the condition of the soil and lighting: daylight hours should last at least 12 hours, so the seedlings may have to be slightly highlighted. It is necessary to water under the root, but lightly: the soil should be slightly moist.

After 5-7 days after the seedlings have hatched, they must be thinned out: if the sowing was in pots, leave one at a time, if in a box, remove obviously superfluous ones. The next day after thinning, you can give top dressing: a weak solution of complex mineral fertilizer (according to instructions) or infusion of ash.

Watermelon seedlings manage to grow into a rather big bush in a month

A week before planting in the ground, watermelon seedlings are accustomed to fresh air, periodically taking them out to the balcony. By the time of planting in the garden, it should be strong bushes with 4-5 real leaves.

Is it possible to pick watermelon seedlings

In the classical sense, picking a watermelon is unacceptable: the slightest damage to the central root leads to the fact that further work will be meaningless: even if the seedlings do not die, there is no need to wait for a normal harvest. But if the sowing was done in a common box, when the first true leaf appears, you can plant watermelons in pots, taking out each seedling with a good clod of earth and without disturbing the root system. This can be done only if you have extensive experience in gardening and in case of emergency: so that the seedlings do not even feel that they were being manipulated.

Care of watermelons in the open field

Watermelon is a heat- and light-loving plant, therefore it is planted when real heat sets in and on a sunny bed. Despite the fact that an adult bush does not seem very large, a watermelon needs a lot of space, plantings should not be thickened: this culture loves space.

Planting watermelons in open ground

Watermelon is placed in a place protected from the north winds; if possible - on a small hill, so that water does not stagnate, from which the roots can rot. The best soils are light loams or sandy loams with an environment close to neutral. It is better to plant them in the place where garlic, onions, peas or cabbage grew last year. Do not plant watermelon after nightshade vegetables. As for any garden inhabitants, the garden bed must be prepared in the fall, digging up the soil with any fertilizer, except for fresh manure. Shortly before planting seedlings, the soil must be loosened by adding a liter jar of ash per square meter. He loves watermelon and magnesium, so it is advisable to apply magnesium-containing fertilizers in a small dose (about 5 g per 1 m 2).

Watermelons are planted when daytime temperatures reach about 15–20 ° C, and at night - not lower than 8 ° C. The distance between plants in a large field is maintained from 1.5 to 3 meters, but in the country, of course, there is not so much space. However, the holes cannot be closer than half a meter from each other, but it is better to use a 100 x 70 cm pattern.

Watermelon seedlings are moved to the garden in the usual way:

1. In selected places, holes are made with a scoop somewhat larger than pots with seedlings.
2. Half a cup of ash is added to the dug holes, mixed well with the soil and lightly watered.
3. Carefully taking out well-watered seedlings (in no case damaging the roots), they plant it, slightly deepening it.
4. Water each bush with warm water under the root, then pour clean sand into the bed with a layer of about 1 cm, placing it at least around each plant.

Watering

Watermelon tolerates drought well and does not require heavy watering. It is watered only before the formation of fruits, moisture is especially needed during the period of rapid growth of the leaf apparatus. Until the end of flowering, the soil should be constantly slightly moist, but not waterlogged. It is necessary to water under the root, preferably in the evening, by this time the water is warming in the sun. After watering, shallow loosening is necessary. It is accompanied by weeding, but as the bush grows, the watermelon itself suppresses weeds, and weeding will soon be forgotten.

During the pouring and ripening of watermelon berries, the soil, on the contrary, is dried a little: by this time, powerful roots form at the watermelon, penetrating to a meter depth and extracting a sufficient amount of moisture from there. Intense rains that occur in the second half of summer, rather, harm the quality of the crop, making the fruits less sweet.

top dressing

Watermelons are fed moderately; special care must be taken in the use of nitrogen fertilizers, it is better not to use them unless absolutely necessary: ​​the nitrogen contained in the complex fertilizer will be enough. The first time top dressing is applied a week and a half after transplanting watermelons into the garden, the second time - a month later. It is better to take mullein infusions, adding wood ash to them, and if they are not available, ammophoska or azofoska (according to the instructions for the preparation). As soon as the fruits are tied, feeding should be stopped: the watermelon will find its own food.

It is convenient to carry out fertilizing with special formulations for gourds.

Formation of a bush (pinching shoots, trimming extra lashes and breaking out stepchildren)

In the process of growing a bush, watermelon lashes must be periodically shifted so that they do not intertwine with each other. But this is far from the most difficult: it is important to form a bush correctly, removing extra shoots from time to time. When forming a watermelon plant, the main task is that it does not waste its strength on the growth of unnecessary green mass, but directs the maximum of nutrients to the formation and ripening of the crop. In addition, some of the fruits have to be removed, since all those that are tied up, the bush will not be able to provide food even on the most fertile lands. All pruning operations should be carried out on a fine sunny day so that the cut or pinching places dry quickly.

The formation procedure depends on the area in which the watermelon is grown. This work is most important in the northern regions, where the summer is short, and every warm day is important in the issue of crop maturation. In addition, the course of the procedure also depends on the variety of watermelon: the formation of a bush is most important for large-fruited varieties. All work on the rationing of the crop should be carried out when the berries grow from a chicken egg. There are several approaches to creating a properly fruiting watermelon plant.

• According to the first option, three to six fruits are left on the main stem (depending on their estimated size), and all ovaries are removed from the side shoots. At the same time, the side shoots are not allowed to grow and are pinched over the fourth leaf. The point of leaving short shoots is that they provide nutrition to the main stem. But as the fruit grows, side shoots are gradually removed, starting from those closest to the roots.
• In the opposite variant, on the contrary, fruits are grown on lateral shoots, leaving one berry on each (for powerful bushes - a maximum of two), and in total - from 4 to 6 copies per bush. Three leaves are left above the fruits, the rest of the side shoots are pinched. The fruits formed on the main stem are removed.
• The toughest option is not to leave side shoots at all. Up to five fruits are left on the main stem, but so that there are 4–5 leaves between them. It is believed that the nutrition from these leaves should be enough for the formation of fruits, especially if the variety does not imply the possibility of obtaining very large berries.

How to figure out which option to choose? It seems that there is no point in thinking about this for an ordinary summer resident, but you just need to remember a few rules:

• do not leave more than six fruits on the bush;
• on each shoot, leave only one berry in the case of large-fruited varieties and a maximum of two in the case of small-fruited ones;
• after the watermelon grows to the size of a fist, leave a maximum of 4–5 leaves above it.

Even when the formation of the bush seems complete and the active growth of the fruits and the increase in their mass begin, stepchildren will periodically appear from the axils of the left leaves - additional side shoots. It is worth making it a rule to inspect the lashes weekly and break out stepchildren, preventing them from increasing in size. True, at this time it is already undesirable to turn the whips over, so this should be done very carefully. As the fruits grow, plywood or boards should be placed under them so that in a rainy summer they do not rot, lying on damp ground.

All available schemes for the formation of watermelon plants provide for pinching most of the stems and leaving only a few fruits on the bush

How to grow a square watermelon ("Japanese" technology)

A square (more precisely, cubic) watermelon is good only because it will take up less space during storage or transportation of the crop. This “miracle” has no other advantages, and there is not much point in trying to grow it on purpose. But lovers of such exotic can get square striped berries from any variety they like. To do this, you need to somehow make cubic containers of transparent plastic of the appropriate size.

What does appropriate mean? The diagonal of the face of the cube should be slightly larger than the diameter of the proposed watermelon, which will grow in this container. In a too cramped dwelling, a watermelon will not really ripen, and in a too spacious one it will not be completely “square”: only 6 flattened sides will turn out. In order for the cube to be reusable, it must, of course, be collapsible, and in one of the faces you need to make a hole with a diameter of 3-4 cm to escape with the fetus. In addition, numerous smaller holes are needed for ventilation, otherwise the berry in this cube will simply rot.

The future square watermelon spends almost all its life inside a transparent cube.

Further, everything is very simple. As soon as the watermelon grows to the size of an apple, it is placed in a mold and the usual care is continued, watching how it feels. You may have to water a little more, turn the cube over, push the fruit in it while it is small. But as soon as he grows up and starts to rest against the edges, he will begin to take the form of a cube. Obviously, in a similar way, you can grow not only cubic watermelons, but also, for example, pyramidal ones.

Treatment for diseases and pests

Watermelon is a heat-loving plant, but otherwise it is completely unpretentious. With proper care, it rarely gets sick or is attacked by pests. Most often, in amateur melon growing, even no spraying is required; in large farms, of course, preventive treatments are carried out. To prevent possible diseases (rot, spotting, powdery mildew, anthracnose), for example, such well-known drugs as Fundazol or Decis, as well as traditional Bordeaux liquid, are used. Each of them is capable of destroying certain pathogens, and if necessary, you should carefully study the instructions.

Watermelon has few pests. The most common are melon aphids, wireworms, and various mites. To scare away most of them, it is enough to spray watermelons with products based on garden plants or simple household preparations. So, against aphids, infusions of tobacco dust or wood ash (with small additions of laundry soap) help well. Wireworms and leaf-eating caterpillars are collected by attracting them to sweet baits placed in small holes: sweetened infusions of garlic, mustard, wormwood, hot pepper, tomato tops.

Harvest and storage

When the crop approaches the ripening stage, the question arises: when should the watermelons be cut? After all, the fact is that fully ripe berries are very poorly stored, and if you want to eat a delicious watermelon right from the garden, you have to wait until it becomes as tasty as the variety allows. Those watermelons that have not yet reached the so-called first stage of maturity are also poorly stored.

Of course, until you cut a watermelon, you will not know exactly what it is inside: it happens that even the most experienced melon growers make mistakes. On the cut, everything is simple: if the color of the pulp and seeds corresponds to the varietal characteristics, the watermelon is ready. A slightly unripe specimen (the flesh is lighter than normal) could reach full ripeness and gain sugar during storage. But you will not cut berries in the garden!

There are several signs of ripeness:

• when the watermelon ripens, the matte surface of the peel turns into a shiny one;
• the crust should be firm and not pierced by light pressure with a fingernail;
• in a fully ripened watermelon, the stalk becomes dry;
• a good sign is a yellow spot where the watermelon was in contact with the ground or bedding;
• if you knock on a watermelon, then the ripening specimens make a ringing sound. Muted tones - in fully ripe and, conversely, green (well, it's not so difficult to distinguish them from each other).

The lightest are late-ripening watermelons, but they must also be removed correctly. The berry is cut with a pruner or a sharp knife along with a stalk about 5 cm long. When transporting to the storage, watermelons should lie on a soft bedding, and in the storage itself - also on a bedding, preferably straw, and only in one layer. During storage, they must be periodically inspected, discarding specimens that begin to deteriorate. The best temperature in storage is from 6 to 8 °C, air humidity is not higher than 85%. But even the lightest varieties can rarely last more than three months.

Growing watermelon at home (in a bucket)

If the house has a sunny window sill or balcony, you can grow watermelon on them. True, it requires a lot of free space, and it is almost impossible to get a berry weighing more than 1 kg. The whole process consists of the same stages as usual, only from small seedling pots, plants with a clod of earth are transferred to a large pot, with a volume of at least a bucket, and preferably from 15 liters. Of course, you can immediately sow the seeds in a bucket (not forgetting to make drainage holes in the bottom).

On one plant at home, you can leave no more than two fruits, but after they successfully tie. And they will tie only under the condition of artificial pollination.

The owner must know how the female flowers differ from the male ones, and pollen from the male flower (on a thin stalk) must independently pollinate the female one (with a thick stalk).

Otherwise, you need to monitor the temperature, soil moisture and give the watermelon more light.

Greenhouse watermelons, the use of nets

In the cold climate zone, watermelons can only be grown in a greenhouse. There, beds are prepared in advance, introducing humus and mineral fertilizers into them. Watermelon seedlings are planted when night temperatures in the greenhouse do not fall below 6 ° C, which happens in the center of Russia around the end of April. Although, of course, in the greenhouse you can sow watermelons and seeds, immediately in the garden.

Since space in the greenhouse has to be saved, watermelons are planted somewhat thicker, and trellises are arranged to guide the lashes. Plants are usually planted according to the scheme of 50 x 70 cm, and early varieties are planted at all, two plants per hole, directing the shoots in different directions. If windows and doors are almost always kept closed in the greenhouse, at the right time there may not be flying insects in it, there is no wind there, so artificial pollination has to be carried out.

If a watermelon is grown on a trellis, the fruits do not lie on the ground, but are at a certain height, so they may fall as they grow. In this regard, when a berry grows to the size of an apple, it is often placed in spacious nets of any material that are firmly tied to the trellis. At the same time, the fruits do not lie on the ground and, therefore, do not rot. In addition, when in a grid, they are evenly lit from all sides, which leads to earlier ripening.

Nets fixed on the trellis allow watermelons not to fall and ripen better

Barrel growing, film application

Our summer residents are well-known experimenters, and in the pursuit of saving space, they have invented many unique ways to grow vegetables. So, many vegetables, flowers and even strawberries are often grown in old unusable barrels with a volume of about 200 liters. You can do the same with watermelons. Various garbage is placed at the bottom of the barrel, which acts as drainage, and as it rots, fertilizer. Grass is poured on top, good humus, and then fertile soil. Since the metal barrel warms up well in the sun, this substrate always remains warm.

You can immediately sow seeds in the barrel or plant seedlings (depending on the climate), but in any case, at first the watermelon must be covered with non-woven material. There is enough space in the barrel for two plants. A trellis is not needed here, and the growing lashes will hang down, where flowers will appear near the surface of the earth, and then fruits. Watermelon care is normal, only more abundant watering may be required.

Some summer residents, instead of non-woven material, cover the planted seedlings with plastic wrap. As a temporary measure, this approach can be used, but prolonged exposure of watermelons under the film can lead to root rot. The film can be used both in an ordinary garden bed and in a greenhouse, but only for a short time. Its only true use is to cover crops in order to create a greenhouse effect for the emergence of rapid shoots. In the future, you can make holes for seedlings and hold the film for some more time so that the earth does not cool down. But long-term maintenance under polyethylene for watermelons is detrimental.

Features of growing watermelons in different regions

Trouble-free cultivation of watermelons is possible only in the south, other regions have their own rules, but all of them are mainly aimed only at creating warm conditions for this berry.

Watermelons in the south of Russia

In the southern regions (starting from Volgograd), only amateurs who want to get very early harvests are engaged in seedlings. In industrial production, watermelons are sown immediately in open ground, starting from mid-spring. They are watered only at first, before flowering, and then the melon, in fact, grows by itself.

Already starting from the Central Black Earth region, options are possible. Here, cultivation is used both through seedlings and without it, and sowing in a garden bed is possible already in early May. Greenhouses are usually not needed.

For the first time, many summer residents cover crops with a film. Some sow watermelons immediately after planting potatoes, in a free place. Since the second half of June, they have not been watered at all; precipitation is usually sufficient.

Central regions of Russia, Ural region

In the central regions of the country, and even more so in the Urals, it is possible to get a crop in the open field only by seedlings. Seedlings (better - in peat pots) are planted in the garden at the end of spring, but greenhouse cultivation is often used, planting seedlings immediately after the May holidays. Only early varieties are used: Ogonyok, Skorik, Sibiryak, and in the event of an unsuccessful summer in the open field, even they may not ripen and be used only for salting.

When planting in greenhouses, many alternate watermelons with cucumbers, although this can hardly be considered reasonable: watermelon is a resident of arid regions, and cucumbers need moist air. But with timely ventilation and proper temperature control, both crops can bring good yields.

Video: growing watermelons in greenhouse conditions

Northwestern region, Leningrad region

Until recently, it was believed that it was unrealistic to grow watermelons in the open field in the north-west of the country, but in recent years there have been more and more reports that enthusiasts manage to do this even in Karelia and the Murmansk region. True, luck is variable and depends on how the summer turned out, and the fruits are not very tasty. But in greenhouses, watermelons in the Leningrad region have been grown for a long time and quite successfully. But even greenhouse cultivation involves the use of only early varieties and requires considerable effort. Among agronomists, it is believed that the unspoken border of growing watermelons, even in greenhouses, runs along the line St. Petersburg - Kirov: in the more northern regions, "the game is not worth the candle."

Watermelons in the Far East

The heat in the Far East region is quite enough for growing watermelons in open ground, there are even zoned varieties, for example, Ogonyok, Early Kuban, Skorik, although it is possible to ripen any other varieties, except for very late ones. Sowing seeds directly into the garden is, of course, risky, so they practice the seedling method.

The only difference between the Far Eastern technology and the traditional one is that in the second half of summer there are often long and heavy rains, as a result of which watermelons can rot. They cope with this simply: they are planted on high ridges, from which excess water drains. The size of the ridges is any, convenient for use. In suburban areas, they are made about a meter wide, raising them above the furrows to a height of 20–25 cm.

Ukraine

Ukraine is the second largest country in Europe, so the climate is very dependent on the region. And if in the north of the country it is similar to the one near Moscow, then in the south it is ideal for cultivating gourds. In the south of Ukraine, they do not know the concept of "seedlings", they sow watermelons right in the field or garden in late April - early May, and care for them is minimal. In the north, it is also possible to sow seeds in a garden bed (at the end of spring), and to pre-cultivate seedlings.

Growing watermelons is not always a lottery: with some experience and luck, normal fruits can also be obtained in central Russia. And already at latitudes south of Kursk or Saratov, this striped berry is a traditional resident in the beds of garden enthusiasts. You can enjoy delicious sweet fruits directly from the garden with some effort, but they are not great: the technology for growing gourds is available to every summer resident.

The best watermelons, of course, grow in the southern regions. But even in the middle zone of our country you can harvest a good harvest. Sometimes watermelons are grown in a greenhouse. But more they prefer the sun, so high-quality specimens grow in open ground. If climatic conditions allow, then it is necessary to plant them on your site. And growing large berries is not difficult if you follow all the rules for planting and care.

Soil selection for watermelon

Watermelon is a warm and photophilous plant. The bed for him must be chosen the most sunny. It grows well in hot and even dry weather. Watermelon has powerful roots that penetrate to a depth of up to a meter and get the necessary moisture from there. Not very large in appearance, the plant requires a lot of free space for comfortable growth. Therefore, saving on the beds is not worth it. When choosing a place, you need to consider that the plants must be protected from cold winds. At the same time, it is better if it is a small hill where excess water does not accumulate: it has a detrimental effect on the roots, causing fungal diseases.

Watermelon is very demanding on the composition of the soil: it loves light, sandy or loamy soils, with acidity close to neutral (pH 6.5–7). If clay predominates on the site, river sand should be added when digging (1 bucket per m 2). Acidic soils should be limed in advance by adding dolomite flour or slaked lime. When choosing a place, you need to know what cultures grew here before. The best predecessors: garlic, onions, legumes, cabbage. Watermelon grows poorly after peppers, potatoes and tomatoes. It should not be planted even after repeated cultivation of gourds. They can grow in one place for a maximum of two years in a row. After that, a five-year break must be provided. Watermelon grows well on virgin lands, as they are quite breathable.

Watermelon will grow everywhere, even fight weeds, but it is better to provide it with quality soil

As with most plants, a watermelon bed is best prepared in the fall. Although in the spring there will be an opportunity for this: watermelon is not planted very early. The site needs to be dug up on a shovel bayonet and fertilized. For 1 m 2, about a bucket of rotted manure or good compost is required. Fresh manure cannot be used. In the spring, you should walk around the bed with a cultivator, first add superphosphate and wood ash (respectively 40 g and a liter jar per m 2) and loosen the ground by 10–12 cm. Magnesium-containing fertilizers can also be added (about 5 g per 1 m 2). It is not worth adding a large amount of nitrogen: an increased content of nitrates worsens both the taste and the safety of the fruit. If you want the soil to warm up sooner, immediately after the snow melts, you can cover the bed with plastic wrap.

Preparing watermelon seeds for planting

Watermelon can be planted through seedlings and direct sowing in open ground. But the preparation of seeds in both cases is the same. Seeds are not always bought in stores. Sometimes they are taken from the liked watermelon, bought for food. The second case is not very reliable. First, like most crops, watermelon has hybrids (F1). And it’s useless to take seeds from them: a watermelon that was eaten in the summer may not grow at all. Secondly, retail chains do not always sell watermelons that are grown in the appropriate climate. Therefore, it is better to find out which varieties are zoned and buy reliable seeds in a specialty store. If you plant a watermelon not for the first time and take the seeds from your crop, you need to select the largest and most delicious specimens for this purpose.

Watermelon seeds remain viable for 6–8 years.

At first, the seeds can simply be manually calibrated: they are large, so choosing the most solid specimens is not difficult.

Watermelon seeds are known to everyone who has ever eaten this berry.

Some lovers wipe the nose of each seed with sandpaper, making it easier for the root to come out in this way. When planting several copies, this is easy to do. And in mass production, of course, no one does this.

Disinfection

For disinfection, watermelon seeds are soaked for 20–30 minutes in a dark solution of potassium permanganate (1 g of potassium permanganate per 200 ml of water). Then washed with clean water. To increase germination, some gardeners soak seeds in solutions of growth stimulants. Actually, pickling in potassium permanganate is really necessary, since it significantly reduces the risk of diseases. And the use of growth stimulants is an optional procedure: good seeds in warm soil germinate well anyway.

hardening

When growing watermelon in central Russia, it is advisable to pre-harden the seeds. After disinfection, they are transferred to a damp cloth and sent to the refrigerator for 12–15 hours. It is even better to wait for the seeds to peck before hardening. To do this, they are kept in a wet cloth until a few seeds open and roots appear. It is with the roots that the seeds are put in the refrigerator. But in this case, the term of the "link" should be shorter: 5-6 hours will be enough. Such hardening is a good prevention against many diseases. Before sowing, the seeds are slightly dried.

Soak

In fact, while preparing the seeds for sowing, we have already soaked them at least in a solution of potassium permanganate. If you refuse to disinfect and harden, then you can not soak the seeds at all and plant them dry: watermelons will sprout. But many gardeners want this to happen a couple of days earlier, and even without dressing the seeds, they still soak them in water. It is better to do this two days before planting. First, the seeds should be dipped in hot water (50 ° C), and after its natural cooling, transferred to a wet cloth and kept in it near the battery, not allowing it to dry out. It is more convenient to do this in a Petri dish. And in the absence of such a container - in any small vessel, covered not quite hermetically.

For soaking any seeds, a Petri dish is better than other containers.

The question of the need for soaking belongs to the area of ​​\u200b\u200blaziness. Most guides advise soaking almost all vegetable crops. But if everything is done “according to what is written”, the working person will have neither strength nor time left for the rest of his life. Therefore, we often omit operations that seem superfluous to us. The author of these lines (who lives in Saratov) has never treated watermelon seeds or soaked them. It cannot be said that good watermelons always work out, it does not happen year after year. But, at least, this does not affect the emergence and growth of the watermelon bush.

Sowing dates for watermelon seeds

The timing of sowing seeds depends on whether it will be growing seedlings or direct sowing seeds in the garden. Planting seeds in open ground is recommended only for the southern regions. An attempt to do this in the Non-Black Earth Region, and even more so in the Urals or Siberia, can lead to the fact that the fruits of even the earliest varieties have time to start, but do not ripen. The term for planting watermelon seeds for seedlings is 30–35 days before planting in open ground or a greenhouse. In most regions, sowing occurs in mid or late April. Many varieties have time to ripen when sowing seeds in the first half of May. Watermelon seeds have a dense shell, so it can take up to ten days for plants to appear from unprepared seeds.

Planting seedlings in open ground is possible only when daytime temperatures are stable at 15–20 ° C, and at night it will not be lower than 8 ° C. In the middle lane, night frosts end around June 1. Of course, in earlier periods there are also periods of warm weather, lasting even up to two weeks, but usually they are replaced by cold weather. Therefore, it is not worth rushing to plant seedlings. In the north, the dates are shifted by another two weeks towards summer. If it gets colder, and the seedlings have already been planted, it must be covered with non-woven materials, and more solid shelters should be added at night.

Sowing seeds in the garden is possible a week earlier. As a rule, the soil in mid-May, even in the middle lane, has already warmed up, the seeds will not die. And by the time they rise, the threat of frost will pass. In the southern regions, few people are preparing watermelon seedlings: in April, the seeds are sown immediately in a permanent place.

Planting watermelons according to the lunar calendar

In recent years, many gardeners have been reconciling their affairs according to the lunar calendar. Of course, if there is free time for this. A working person who gets to the summer cottage only on weekends has no time to look at the calendars. You can read in them that you can’t sow on weekends, otherwise you can be left without crops at all.

It is believed that crops are not carried out on the full moon. At this time, you can only prepare beds or planting containers. In the "barren" signs of the Moon (Aquarius, Aries), it is also better to refrain from landing. Gourds are more influenced by the moon than other vegetables. It is better to sow watermelon on those days of the lunar calendar, when “tops” grow well. Ideally, crops are done immediately after the full moon. If you sow watermelons on the growing moon, they grow small.

Favorable days for planting watermelons

When considering lunar calendars, one must be a great master of averaging. The more sources you study, the more incomprehensible the logic of their compilers becomes. So, having looked at about two dozen options, you can be sure that the total set of data allows you to sow on almost any day. However, the most often among the favorable dates for sowing watermelons in 2018 are the following:

• from 19 to 24 March;
• from 5 to 9 and from 20 to 24 April;
• from 4 to 9 and from 19 to 23 May.

Surprisingly, the compilers of most calendars do not take into account the climatic features of the regions at all.

Rules for planting watermelons

Heat-loving watermelon is cultivated more often in the southern regions of our country. But when growing seedlings, its early ripening varieties give normal yields in the middle lane. In the central regions, watermelons are often grown in greenhouses. The minimum temperature for germination of watermelon seeds is 16 o C. At 0 o C, the plants die. The most favorable temperature is 20–30 o C.

Based on the climate of the region, it is possible to plant a watermelon in open ground or only in a greenhouse. But both there and there it is possible to grow it both through the seedling stage, and simply by sowing seeds in the garden. Therefore, the choice of planting watermelon is quite wide. Planting patterns also differ, that is, ways to place plants in the provided space.

How far apart should watermelons be planted?

Different sources give different schemes for planting watermelon. But all the authors agree on one thing: watermelon needs a lot of space, and dense plantings are unacceptable. Based on the geometry of the site and the preferences of the owner, both lowercase (ordinary) and square-nested planting are possible. With row planting, between rows of watermelons leave from 1.5 to 3 meters, and between plants in a row - about 1 meter. With a square-nested planting, it is recommended to leave distances between holes from 0.7 to 2 meters, depending on the variety of watermelon, on the power of the plant.

Between watermelon bushes always leave solid distances

Of course, these distances refer, rather, to the mass production of watermelons, to sowing them in a large field. An ordinary summer resident will plant no more than a dozen plants in a small garden, but the distance between them still cannot be less than half a meter.

In closed ground (in a greenhouse), you usually cannot afford such a luxury, and the distances have to be made somewhat smaller. Most often, a 50 x 70 cm scheme is used. In the case of early varieties, two plants are planted in the hole, directing their whips as they grow in opposite directions.

Sowing seeds for seedlings at home

When sowing watermelon seeds for seedlings, one must expect that it will be planted in open ground or a greenhouse in about a month. The best potting mix for seedlings consists of equal parts soddy soil, sand, peat and humus. You can also add sawdust. It is also allowed to sow in a common box, but transplanting watermelons from a common container into the ground will be very painful for seedlings. It is better for each plant to take a separate dish with a volume of 200 ml or more, with a depth of at least 10–12 cm. Peat pots are optimal.

Sowing is carried out to a depth of about 3 cm, 2–3 seeds per pot, a little clean sand is poured on top. Before sowing, the soil is slightly moistened. And after sowing, the pots are covered with glass or plastic wrap, creating a greenhouse effect until the first shoots appear. The optimum temperature for growing seedlings is 22°C during the day and 18°C ​​at night. But immediately after the emergence of seedlings, it is lowered by 3–5 degrees for several days. Watering is needed moderate, under the root. Sometimes you have to highlight the seedlings, especially if they are trying to stretch. Light day should be about 12 hours.

Already at the seedling stage, each watermelon plant needs a rather big dwelling.

A week after germination, one plant is left in a pot. At this time, seedlings can be fed a little with complex fertilizer or mullein infusion. A week before planting in the ground, the seedlings are hardened. By the time of landing on the garden, it should have 4-5 true leaves.

Video: sowing watermelon seeds for seedlings

Planting seedlings in open ground

Of course, greenhouse conditions are better suited for growing watermelon in the middle lane. But in the more southern regions, they ripen well in the open field. The grown seedlings are planted in the garden as follows:

1. In the places planned according to the chosen scheme, they dig holes with a scoop slightly larger than the size of pots with seedlings.
2. A glass of wood ash is poured into each well as a local fertilizer, mixed with the ground and watered a little.
3. Carefully removing well-watered seedlings from the pots, transfer them to the holes and deepen them a little. All leaves should remain on the surface.
4. Gently water each plant under the root.
5. After that, clean sand is poured around the stem with a centimeter layer.

Video: planting seedlings in open ground

Direct sowing of seeds in the garden

Direct sowing with seeds is even easier. You can sow both dry planting material and previously prepared. Planting is possible when the soil reaches a temperature of at least 14 ° C. Therefore, in the middle lane it is carried out no earlier than the last days of May. Just as when planting seedlings, they dig holes, apply local fertilizers to them (a teaspoon of azophoska can be added to the ash), mix, water and sow seeds to a depth of about 3 cm. 2-3 seeds can be put in each hole, then remove excess seedlings.

Planting watermelons in a greenhouse

In regions with a cold climate, watermelons have to be grown in a greenhouse. It is necessary to prepare the beds in advance by carefully digging the ground with humus and mineral fertilizers. Sometimes it is necessary to completely replace the soil, if diseases of certain plants were noted in the greenhouse last year.

It is possible to plant seedlings in a greenhouse only when the daytime air temperature reaches 20–25 ° C, and at night it does not fall below 6 ° C. This is usually observed in the middle lane by the end of April. Planting seedlings is carried out in the same way as in open ground. Only the distances between the holes are left somewhat smaller. In connection with this circumstance, trellises are usually equipped in the greenhouse, raising the growing watermelon lashes above the ground. It makes sense to make trellises immediately, until the plants have grown.

When growing watermelons in a greenhouse, you have to use not only the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room, but the entire volume

Watermelon seedlings can also be grown in heated greenhouses. The terms in this case are determined only by the ability to track the temperature regime and are not limited to the calendar. However, one must be well aware that truly delicious watermelons grow only in the open air, in natural sunlight, warmed by the sun's rays.

watermelon care

Watermelon is a drought-resistant crop, it does not require abundant watering. It is necessary to water only before fruit set, especially during the period of intensive leaf growth. During the ripening of the fruits, to increase the sugar content, the soil, on the contrary, is slightly dried. Watermelon is very photophilous, especially in the first months of development. The main things on the melon are reduced to the following activities:

• moderate watering. The soil until fruit set should be constantly moist, but not waterlogged. Watering is best done in the evening, watering under the root. After moistening the soil, loosening is required;
• weeding. In this, watermelon is no different from most garden residents. As it grows, it itself begins to suppress the development of most annual weeds;
• the location of the lashes in the garden. They must be periodically shifted so that they do not intertwine with each other;
• top dressing. The first - 7–10 days after planting the seedlings in the garden. The second one is a month later. It is better to use infusions of organic fertilizers with the addition of ash, if not, azofoska strictly according to the instructions on the package. Top dressing should be stopped after the beginning of the formation of fruits;
• artificial pollination. It may be needed when growing watermelons in a greenhouse. If insects do not fly into it, it is necessary to pollinate the flowers manually using an ordinary brush;
• plant formation. No more than 5 fruits are left on the bush. Excess side stems should be pinched off.
• decay protection. As watermelons grow, plywood should be placed under these berries to prevent possible rotting in case of rainy weather.

Preventive spraying

Watermelon is an unpretentious plant. With proper agricultural technology, it is rarely exposed to diseases or pests. To prevent possible diseases, various drugs are used, such as Fundazol, Decis, Bordeaux liquid. Each of them is designed to treat specific diseases, so before use, you must read the instructions.

Watermelon has few pests. To combat aphids, plants are sprayed with infusions of ash or tobacco dust, after which the soil is loosened. Wireworms and various caterpillars are harvested using sweet baits placed in small holes. To scare away most insects, it is enough to spray watermelons with folk remedies. It can be infusions of garlic, mustard, wormwood, hot pepper, tobacco dust, tomato tops. Processing is carried out once a week.

Popular varieties of watermelons

All known varieties of watermelon are divided into early, mid-ripening and late. Obviously, late varieties have time to ripen only in the southernmost regions of our country. In the middle lane, it is preferable to plant early varieties, for example:

• Victoria - the variety ripens in two months, gives large round fruits;
• Skorik - differs in very tasty pulp, but thick-skinned. The fruits are small, barely reach 4 kg;
• Ogonyok - bred back in the days of the Soviet Union. The fruits are small, the seeds in them are small, but the pulp is of excellent taste.

Among the mid-season varieties, Lezheboka is distinguished (ripening time up to 3 months) with fruits weighing up to 5 kg and Ataman, bearing large berries, up to 10 kg. Both varieties are characterized by excellent taste.

Among the late varieties are known:

• Spring - gives very small fruits with dark red pulp. The variety ripens in 3.5 months;
• Icarus - characterized by large fruits, can be stored for a long time;
• Kholodok is the most famous of the late-ripening watermelons. Fruits are stored more than 3 months. The variety is very productive, the berries have an excellent taste.

Photo gallery: varieties of watermelons

Victoria is one of the fastest growing watermelons.
Skorik is not only early, but also well stored
The light does not look like the classic definition of a “striped berry” Ataman has very large fruits
The Lyzhebok variety is very often called "honey", and it is no coincidence that Icarus, which is not striped at all, can be stored for a very long time. Chill, perhaps the most famous of the watermelon varieties.

Features of planting watermelon in different regions

The main difference in climatic conditions between regions, in terms of growing watermelons, is the number of warm summer days. This is what leaves an imprint not only on the conditions for caring for plants, but also on the way they are planted in the beds. Growing watermelons is extremely difficult only in regions with a harsh climate, for example, in Siberia.

In central Russia

In the climatic conditions of the middle zone, watermelons should be grown in open ground through seedlings. It is most convenient for her to use peat pots. You can plant them in the garden at the end of spring. But quite often greenhouse cultivation is also practiced, where seedlings are planted in early May. Growing watermelon here in a seedless way, without using greenhouses, is practically unrealistic: this is only possible in certain, most favorable seasons.

Recommended varieties: Spark, Skorik, Sibiryak. On each lash, when forming plants, you should not leave more than two fruits. If the summer is rainy, even two watermelons on a whip may not have time to ripen properly. And they will not taste sweet - such watermelons are often used for salting.

In outskirts of Moscow

Of course, the Moscow region also belongs to the middle lane, and this is a zone in which it is risky to grow watermelons. You can get a normal crop of watermelons in the Moscow region only through seedlings. Seeds for seedlings should be sown no earlier than mid-April. They often arrange a “smart garden” for watermelons: a site well seasoned with organic fertilizers is covered with a black film, and watermelon seedlings are planted in holes cut in it. And even in such a bed, for the first time, it is covered with non-woven materials for the night. As soon as the flowers begin to appear, they stop covering: by this time real warmth has already come. Of course, watermelons don't grow as big as they do in the south. They reach only 2-3 kg, but the taste in sunny seasons is quite good.

Smart beds are called beds covered with a dark film, under which the soil is saturated with organic fertilizers.

In Belarus

The Belarusian climate is reminiscent of Moscow, but it is milder: in winter there is no sharp alternation of frosts and thaws, and spring comes a little earlier. Nevertheless, watermelon, as in the Moscow region, is grown here more often through seedlings, which are planted in a permanent place in early summer. Growing watermelons in Belarus is most reliable when using covering materials. Without shelter, about once every 5 years, watermelons do not grow: the vagaries of the weather affect. Of course, the southern regions of Belarus are the most suitable for gourds. But amateurs manage to grow ripe watermelons even in the northern part of the Vitebsk region.

In the southern regions, for example, in Gomel, they also practice direct sowing of prepared seeds in open ground, first under a film. They do this when the earth warms up to 12–14 ° C, that is, in the middle or end of May. When shoots appear, the film is removed. In the climatic conditions of Belarus, it is preferable to grow early ripe varieties and hybrids.

In the Chernozem region

The climate of the Central Black Earth region of Russia is transitional between the climate of the middle zone and the southern regions. Therefore, seedling and seedless methods of growing watermelons are equally practiced here. The need for greenhouses, as a rule, does not arise here. It is possible to sow watermelons directly on a garden bed in the southern strip in the middle of spring, and in the Chernozem region - in early May. Just in case, for the first time, it is better to cover the crops with a film in order to insure against short-term frosts.

Usually watermelons (and melons) are sown after planting potatoes, often in the remaining space. In most cases, in the Black Earth region, summer is quite hot so that watermelons grow large and sweet. To do this, watering is completely stopped from mid-June: watermelons have enough of what falls in the form of rain.

In the Urals

Summer in the Urals is short and cold, so watermelons often do not have time to ripen. Here it is necessary to use the seedling method. And often the seedlings are planted not in the garden, but in the greenhouse. Without the use of greenhouses, only the most early-ripening varieties can be grown: the duration of a really warm season does not exceed 70 days. Ogonyok, Skorik, Sugar Kid have proven themselves well in the Urals. Adventurous gardeners sow watermelon seeds in early summer outdoors, but most prefer to grow watermelons through seedlings. Sowing seeds for seedlings is carried out in mid-April, and at the beginning of summer it is planted in beds under temporary shelters.

When growing watermelons in greenhouses, they are often planted along with cucumbers, although this is not ideal: watermelon needs dry air, and cucumbers like a humid atmosphere. But for both crops, it is mandatory to periodically ventilate the greenhouse and clearly monitor the temperature regime.

Video: planting watermelons in the Urals

Watermelon is gradually ceasing to be considered a southern berry: its cultivation area is slowly moving north. This is facilitated by both the success of breeders and the indefatigable enthusiasm of our summer residents. Planting a watermelon is no more difficult than planting any vegetable crops. Therefore, many gardeners are trying to plant watermelons on their plots. And if it worked out once, they continue to do it in the following years.

Growing watermelons outdoors is not particularly difficult. You just need to follow certain steps and be ready to overcome the difficulties that may appear in the path of gardeners. In this case, growing watermelons in the open field will not present great difficulties.

Choosing a watermelon variety

When posing the question “How to grow a watermelon?”, You should start with the selection of seed stock. It is recommended to choose seeds that belong to hybrid varieties. This is due to the fact that they are more resistant to ailments, calmly survive changes in weather conditions. And the fruits ripen in a shorter period.

Such seeds allow you to grow watermelons of the required dimensions and a certain sugar content, even if the summer does not indulge in warm days.

Preparing seeds for sowing

Direct preparation for planting watermelons and care in the open field occurs at the time of seed selection. In order for the seeds to sprout calmly and in the future the seedlings remain strong and resistant to diseases, it is necessary to carry out a certain set of measures before sowing. It is required to calibrate the seeds, warm them up well and disinfect them.

Calibration is the selection of seed according to their dimensions. It is made in order to match the seeds in size when planted in one container. Otherwise, larger seeds will simply crush the smaller ones and they will not be able to fully sprout.

Warming up is a mandatory procedure that allows you to speed up the process of seed germination. This is due to the fact that at high temperatures, biochemical reactions increase in seeds. To carry out this operation, it is necessary to lower the seeds into warm water, the temperature of which reaches 50 degrees Celsius, and hold them for half an hour.

Disinfection is also not difficult. It is only necessary to withstand the seeds in a solution of manganese for a third of an hour.

After completing all the procedures for preparing the seeds, it is necessary to dry them in natural conditions, and then sow in the soil.

Choosing a container and soil

Due to the fact that watermelon seedlings do not tolerate the transplant process very well, it is necessary to immediately grow each seedling in a separate container. In order for the seedling to grow in the most comfortable conditions for itself, it is required to choose a container of at least 100 millimeters in diameter and 120 millimeters in height.

This container must be filled with soil in such a way that there is a gap of 30 millimeters to the upper border of the pot. In the future, it will be possible to pour the earth.

Sowing watermelon seeds

At the end of May, it is necessary to plant seedlings of this species in open ground. If you know how a watermelon grows, then you must remember that it is necessary to plant watermelons in open ground with 4 leaves.

It is necessary to sow the seeds at the end of the second spring month. The seed container is best stored on a south-facing windowsill.

30 degrees Celsius is the ideal temperature for melon seeds. Then they will ascend already on the 6th day. In the future, the temperature is recommended to be lowered to 18 degrees.

After the seedlings adapt, you can increase the temperature to 22 degrees. A similar temperature regime must be maintained for three weeks.

Planting seedlings in open ground

Before planting a melon culture representative in open ground, it is necessary to harden them. This process consists in the fact that the temperature in which the seedlings are kept gradually decreases, and the watering of the plants decreases.

Planting watermelons in open ground will be no problem if you take these steps in the morning. It is necessary to extract seedlings with a clod of earth, in which the roots of a representative of gourds are enclosed.

Between plants, a distance of 1000 millimeters is observed. After the seedlings are planted, they must be watered and covered with covering material.

Taking care of watermelons

Outdoor care and watering of watermelons is the basis for excellent yields. In order for plants to grow well in open ground, they need to be watered abundantly. Only after the fruits are formed, the watering process can be stopped.

So how do you grow watermelons? It is best to prepare the seeds, select the desired container, observe the temperature regime and then plant them in open ground at a distance from each other, watering the seedlings from time to time. In this case, a stunning harvest of ripe and fragrant watermelons awaits you.

Photo of growing watermelons