Bathroom renovation portal. Useful Tips

Gas pressure stabilizer, MESURA, model A6. Propane reducer

ATTENTION! This material is about connecting balloon gas in the country with your own hands can not be a reference or methodological material, as it may contain errors and violations of existing norms. Please contact the gas service or certified professionals for any advice on connecting bottled gas in your home.

Yes, I'm serious: liquefied balloon gas is a serious and dangerous thing - check with specialized specialists several times before connecting bottled gas in your home. Gas becomes dangerous when it mixes with air and accumulates in any enclosed space. Therefore, all existing norms for laying gas lines provide for open laying of pipes for gas at a height so that the gas has time to be blown away by the wind before it reaches the ground (gas is heavier than air). Gas pipes must be solid or welded - and must withstand fire in case of fire. Therefore, it is unacceptable to use for gas supply to the house plastic pipes or metal-plastic. The ideal gas pipe is a stainless steel bellows (corrugated) pipe. Gas cylinders must be certified by the gas service, no corrosion or damage. The safest type of steel cylinder is with a valve instead of a valve. There are also explosion-proof fiberglass cylinders made in Norway or Sweden (there are also domestic ones - Nizhny Novgorod). Such gas cylinders release gas when heated, melt in a fire and do not explode.

Let's see how we connected the bottled gas in the house in the country. I repeat once again: do not copy what has been done: the work on connecting bottled gas in the country was done by a non-professional at his own peril and risk, with possible violations and mistakes. To connect your home, contact the gas service.

The rules for laying external and internal gas pipelines, the device of individual gas cylinder installations for residential buildings are regulated by the updated (updated) SNiP 42-01-2002 in the form of a set of rules SP 62.13330.2011 * "Gas distribution systems"... So, let's see what the requirements are for individual gas cylinder installations with LPG (With liquid at hydrocarbon G basics) for individual residential buildings, what external and internal gas pipelines should be, and in which rooms it is allowed to place gas appliances and apparatus.

So, individual (up to two gas cylinders) LPG cylinder units are now can be placed both outside and inside buildings[P. 8.2.5 SP 62.13330.2011]. It is allowed to place cylinders with a volume of not more than 0.05 m (50 l) in apartments of a residential building(no more than one cylinder in an apartment) no more than two storeys high(excluding basement and basement floors). However, the admissibility of placing gas cylinders in a house or apartment, as is often the case in the "legislative mess" Russian Federation, contrary to clause 91 Resolutions of the Government (PP) of the Russian Federation No. 390 "On fire safety":It is prohibited to store cylinders with flammable gases in individual residential buildings, apartments and living rooms, as well as in kitchens, escape routes, staircases, in basements, in basements and attic spaces, on balconies and loggias. At the same time, paragraph 92 of the PP of the Russian Federation No. 390 provides that 1 cylinder with a volume of not more than 5 liters, connected to a factory-made gas stove can be used in a house or apartment. According to paragraph 94 of the same decree, a fire safety warning sign with the inscription should be placed at the entrance to buildings where there are gas cylinders "Flammable. Gas cylinders."

But ... I would I did not recommend storing, let alone using gas cylinders in an apartment, even in a house of two floors: By limiting the number of floors in buildings where gas cylinders can be used in apartments, lawmakers simply limited the number of potential victims from a gas cylinder explosion or a gas leak at night. It is known that the explosion of one 50 liter gas cylinder in a building creates an overpressure of about 12.5 kPa, which is classified as sufficient to create moderate destruction (significant damage to structural elements carrying the load, partial destruction of walls and floors of buildings) [ Karibyants V.R. , Nadezhdin A.V. On the question of the methodology for assessing the degree of destruction of a multi-storey residential building during a natural gas explosion in one of the premises. // Bulletin of the Astrakhan State Technical University, 2004 - №4 (20) .- P.35-39].

In the United States, such dangerous nonsense as using and storing gas cylinders inside the house is not allowed: according to paragraph 3-2.2.1 of the NFPA 58 code (National Fire Protection Association), the used gas cylinders must be located exclusively on the street, with the exception of gas cylinders of fuel systems of cars in garages, gas cylinders for equipment used in repair and construction works in the house during repair or construction and empty cylinders for exchange, sale or disposal and unused cylinders limited to no more than 1.1 liters, awaiting use, stored in accordance with special storage conditions. Perhaps thanks to sensible American legislation, we rarely hear of gas cylinder explosions in US homes. In Russia, thanks to the liberal requirements for the storage and use of gas cylinders in houses and apartments, people often do not even understand the degree of danger that they expose themselves and their neighbors thanks to such "kind" officially approved Russian norms. It is not for nothing that the news constantly features stories about explosions of gas cylinders and significant destruction in residential buildings in Russia.

Rules for storing gas cylinders in buildings in accordance with the requirements of chapter 5 of the American code NFPA 58:
- gas cylinders may only be stored in non-residential, underused, well-ventilated areas away from doors, stairs and any potential mechanical and electrical spark sources.
- all the valves of the gas cylinders must be closed and the protective caps must be screwed onto the gas outlet fittings up to the stop along the thread.
- storage of gas cylinders with a volume of not more than 1.1 liters is allowed in residential and public premises. The total volume of gas cylinders cannot exceed 91 liters.
- gas cylinders located on the street must be located at least 6.1 meters from the entrance to the building.

According to Russian fire safety standards, gas cylinders can be located outside buildings in annexes (cabinets or under casings that cover the upper part of the cylinders and the reducer) made of non-combustible materials near a blank wall at a distance of at least 5 meters from the entrances to the building, basement and basement floors [p. 92 PP RF No. 390]. In contradiction with these norms are the recommendations of SP 62.13330.2011, stating that individual LPG cylinder units should be placed outside at a clear horizontal distance of at least 0.5 m from window openings and 1.0 m from the doorways of the first floor, at least 3.0 m from the door and window openings of the basement and basement floors, as well as sewer wells... It is not allowed to place an LPG cylinder unit near emergency exits, from the side of the main facades of buildings. I would recommend focusing on the time-tested (used with regular revisions since 1943) American NFPA 58 standards, which regulate the minimum safe distance from the installation site of LPG gas cylinders before entering the building not less 6.1 m, before windows and vents - 1 m (91 cm), to ventilation and air conditioning devices - 1.5 m, to flammable materials - 3 meters.

Although, as we found out, it is better not to keep gas cylinders indoors due to safety reasons, Russian standards describe the rules for placing gas cylinders in residential buildings (clause 8.2.6 SP 62.13330.2011): The LPG gas cylinder should be located at a distance not less than 0.5 m from the gas stove(excluding built-in cylinders) and 1 m - from heating devices... When installing a screen between the cylinder and the heater, the distance may be reduced to 0.5 m. The screen must be made of non-combustible materials and protect the cylinder from thermal effects heater... When installing an LPG gas cylinder outdoors, it should be protected from damage by transport and heating above 45 ° C.
Installation of LPG gas cylinders is not allowed:
- in living rooms and corridors;
- in basements and basements and attics;
- in rooms without natural light;
- in rooms located in, under and above dining rooms and trading halls enterprises Catering;
auditoriums and classrooms, auditoriums (assembly) halls of buildings, hospital wards, etc. [P. 8.2.7 SP 62.13330.2011]. Once again, I repeat my personal opinion and the requirements of American standards - there should not be any gas cylinders in residential premises, except for microcylinders with a volume of up to 1.1 liters, the explosion of which will not lead to death and collapse of building structures, and a gas leak will not create lethal concentrations!

Requirements for external and internal gas pipelines (pipelines for the vapor phase of LPG).

According to the requirements of SP 42-102-2004 "Design and construction of gas pipelines from metal pipes" (clause 5.8), gas pipelines along the walls of buildings are recommended lay without violating the architectural elements of the facade at a height that provides the possibility of inspection and repair of gas pipelines and excludes the possibility of their mechanical damage... In places where people pass, it is recommended to lay gas pipelines at a height of 2.2 m (paragraph 5. 13). True, this requirement applies to laying a gas pipeline on supports. However, the fewer people have the opportunity to influence the gas pipeline (fall on it, accidentally hit with a stone or a shovel, drop a burning object on it) - the more secure the gas pipeline will be.

According to the provisions of clause 4.3 of SP 62.13330.2011, for external and internal laying of a gas pipeline from an LPG cylinder plant, with a reducer installed on a gas cylinder, which reduces the gas pressure from 0.1 MPA to 2-3 thousandths of MPA, steel pipes can be used (seamless or electrowelded), copper, multilayer polymer and polyethylene pipes reinforced with fibers or steel mesh frame. Polymer (polyethylene) pipes are recommended for underground installation. According to the requirements of the NFPA 58 code, the minimum depth of burial of polymer pipes into the ground to prevent their damage is 48 cm. For open outdoor laying, polymer pipes for gas pipelines are not recommended, as they can easily be damaged by heating, rodents or intruders. US regulations provide for the placement of non-tearing polymer pipes in a steel pipe jacket for external installation. Steel pipes must be protected from corrosion in accordance with the requirements of SP 42-102-2004 "Design and construction of gas pipelines from metal pipes." The external laying of gas pipelines must be continuous. Ideally, a continuous pipeline with shut-off valves and safety valves (optionally - in vertical position, temperature, gas flow rate) located at the cylinder and at the gas appliance should go from the LPG gas cylinder installation to the gas appliance in the house. To put locking devices when laying gas pipelines along the walls of the building, it is not allowed.

Gas pipeline connections should be provided as one-piece. Detachable connections are allowed in the places where technical devices are installed [clause 5.1.4 of SP 62.13330.2011]. For internal gas pipelines in buildings, it is allowed to make connections of gas pipes: for steel pipes - butt welding and overlapping, for copper pipes - soldering and pressing, for metal-polymer - press crimp. It is not allowed to place gas pipe connections of any kind in walls, in ceilings, in structures, in places with limited visibility and access.

The gas pipeline should be entered into the house directly into the room in which the gas-using equipment is installed, or into the adjacent room connected by an open opening [clause 5.1.6 of SP 62.13330.2011]. At the places where the gas pipeline enters the house, the pipes must be enclosed in a case (sleeve). The ends of the case at the points of entry and exit of the gas pipeline from the ground, the gap between the gas pipeline and the case at the gas pipeline inlets into buildings should be sealed with elastic material for the entire length of the case [clause 5.1.4 of SP 62.13330.2011]. In single-family or semi-detached houses, it is even allowed to enter gas into the basement or ground floor... I would not conduct such experiments, remembering that this norm is due to the principle of limiting human casualties - the gas is heavier than air (the propane phase of steam is 1.5 times heavier than air, and the butane phase is 2 times heavier) and accumulates in depressions without a chance of weathering, and a mixture of natural gas in a concentration of 5-15% with air is an extremely explosive mixture. A person begins to perceive the smell of gas when its concentration in the atmosphere is about 1%. Fortunately when it comes about basements and plinths, domestic standards require their mandatory equipping with systems for monitoring gas pollution and ensuring fire safety. Rooms in the house in which pressure control devices, gas meters and detachable connections are installed, must be protected from access by unauthorized persons. In the gas boiler room of a residential building, a carbon monoxide sensor with the issuance of sound and light signals, as well as with an automatic shutdown of the gas supply to the gas-using equipment, must be provided. In general, for the safe gasification of buildings, as a rule, it is necessary to provide for the installation of protective valves on gas pipelines to automatically shut off the gas supply in case of emergency:
- when the permissible maximum value of the gas flow rate is exceeded;
- when hazardous concentrations of gas or carbon monoxide appear in a gasified room;
- when signs of fire appear in the gasified room (thermal shut-off gas valve) [clause 7.12 of SP 62.13330.2011].

Inside the building, gas pipelines can be made of metal pipes (steel and copper) and heat-resistant (!) multilayer polymer pipes, including, among other things, one metal layer (metal-polymer). Pipes for the vapor phase of natural gases (after the gas cylinder reducer) inside the building are allowed to be produced as open way and with laying in a groove, provided there are no pipe connections. In case of hidden laying of gas pipelines made of steel and copper pipes, it is necessary to provide for additional measures to protect them from corrosion, to provide ventilation of the channel gates and access to the gas pipeline during operation. Hidden laying of gas pipelines from multilayer metal-polymer pipes should be carried out with subsequent plastering of the walls. Pipes in the groove must be laid solidly or freely (provided that measures are taken to seal the groove). In places of passage through building construction buildings, pipes should be laid in cases [clause 7.5 of SP 62.13330.2011]. It is recommended to lay gas pipelines at a distance of at least 50 cm from any type of openings.

Both LPG gas cylinders themselves and gas appliances can be connected to gas pipelines with flexible hoses that are resistant to the transported gas at a given pressure and temperature, including heat-resistant flexible multilayer polymer pipes reinforced with synthetic filaments, subject to confirmation in the established manner of their suitability for use in construction [clause 7.3 SP 62.13330.2011]. Clause 7.6 allows the transit laying of an uninterrupted internal gas pipeline in an exclusively open way through living quarters (which I would not do either). It is not allowed to use gas-powered equipment in residential premises - that is, for example, using gas convectors for heating bedrooms is unacceptable.

Clause 95 of the PP of the Russian Federation No. 390 prohibits when using household gas appliances:
a) operate household gas appliances when gas leaks;
b) connect gas fittings with a sparking tool;
v) check the tightness of the joints using open flame sources, including matches, lighters, candles. (Check the threaded connections of the gas lines with soapy water, shampoo or shaving foam).

So, we connect the gas stove in the kitchen to bottled gas. For connection we use a seamless bellows stainless pipe Colfuso in plastic. The gas pipe will go to the cabinet with gas cylinders without breaks. The advantage of the Colfuso pipe: resistance to corrosion, no need for welding, flexibility (can be bent in one place up to 100 times), fire resistance. Such a pipe costs about 120 rubles per meter. Safety and reliability are worth the money.

The pipe was introduced into the room in the kitchen a few meters from the gas stove. The gas pipe is supplied to the stove under the worktop with an exit to the gas stove through the adjacent cabinet to protect the gas pipe from heating by the oven installed under the gas surface. Additionally, the section of the gas pipeline will be protected basalt wool in foil. This will be done as we have verified that the portion of the gas pipe adjacent to the oven is sufficiently hot during oven operation.

In order for the gas stove to work with bottled gas, in the stove it is necessary to replace the nozzles (jets) with a large hole diameter with jets with a small nozzle diameter. In Soviet times, when there was nothing to buy, the jets were coined (flattened with a hammer) to reduce the size of the jet nozzle. Gas injectors (jets) for bottled gas have smaller orifices than those for main gas. The larger the burner is on the gas stove, the larger the hole in the jet. For bottled gas (propane), gas stove nozzles are suitable for the minimum size - 44, 50 for small burners and 68, 70 for large burners on gas stoves.Using a fitting with dielectric gaskets, the bellows pipe is connected to the gas stove. In our case, the connection of the gas line to the cylinder is carried out through a rubber hose. If the entire gas main is metal, then when connecting the stove to the main, a dielectric gasket is required so that static electricity cannot reach the gas cylinder through the metal pipe. We will additionally have a section with a rubber hose for connecting to a gas cylinder. The fewer threaded connections on the gas line, the higher the reliability of the system as a whole. To seal threaded connections for connecting gas appliances and shut-off valves, fum tape or flax with Multipack paste is used.Standard paste for water line seals - Unipack is not suitable for gas lines. For external installation, we enclose the Colfuso seamless bellows pipe in an additional protective corrugated channel and thermal insulation. This is not necessary - the gas main must be accessible for viewing and provide for the weathering of the gas in the event of a leak.The gas main should be laid along the facade at a height of at least 2.2 meters (so that it is not damaged by people and the gas, in case of a possible leak, would be carried by the wind, and not accumulate in the relief). The gas line must be accessible for inspection. We install a steel cabinet for gas cylinders on the north wall of a house with few windows. The cabinet will be installed on a raised platform so that if a leak occurs, the gas can be dispersed. The foundation for the foundation is metal pipes driven to a depth of 2 m. At the same time, one of the pipes will be the ground for the cabinet for gas cylinders.The grounding of the gas cylinder cabinet will be connected through the double steel strip of the mounting tape. We paint the joints of the tape and the post. We reinforce the base with two-layer reinforcement (from the waste of reinforcement - there will be no loads here.Finished casting of the foundation for the gas cabinet. Clause 3-2.4.1 of NFPA 58 provides for the installation of gas cylinders on a solid, stable foundation, or securing them to prevent tipping over. For additional safety, it is recommended to install safety shut-off valves on gas cylinders to shut off the gas supply when overturning. With the help of porcelain stoneware, we create gaps for the removal of possible gas leaks from under the bottom of the steel cabinet for gas cylinders. The distance from the installation site of the gas oven to dry grass, twigs, brushwood, firewood and any other flammable material must be at least 3 meters. Smoking is prohibited within a radius of 7 meters from the gas cabinet... The gas cabinet must be affixed with a sticker warning "No smoking! Flammable" [clause 6107.2 of the International Building Code ICC] or "Flammable. Gas" in accordance with clause 93 of the RF PP No. 390.Now, a small ode to the domestic business about steel cabinets for gas cylinders. The situation with steel cabinets for gas cylinders (at least in St. Petersburg) is full of seams. For 2500-3500 rubles domestic manufacturers offer what can soon be called not a "steel cabinet", but a metal cover for gas cylinders. Steel - from 0.5 to 0.9 mm thick and of the worst quality (rusts instantly). I was lucky - and I bought a cabinet with a powder (albeit hacky) paint. Many people sell underground cabinets for the same money. I immediately painted over the bottom of this wonderful wardrobe swaying in the wind with Hammeraite. Then you will have to paint the entire cabinet - the slightest scratches will immediately rust.

I will repeat myself - I bought the best gas cylinder cabinet on the market. St. Petersburg... This cabinet, unlike its counterparts from manufacturers, has no conscience or notions at all, at least it had ventilation holes in the walls and in the bottom. Other cabinets did not have such holes. As I was explained in one of the Lengazapparat stores (!) - "our cabinet has slots - and so everything is ventilated." By the way, after the winter this cabinet also rusted - it had to be completely painted with Hammeraite.

In general: if someone starts making cabinets out of good thick steel, with proper ventilation, well painted, with a grounding terminal and at a price of up to 4000 rubles - that will be a financial success. Or should we turn to the Chinese again? ( 中国使煤气瓶一个很好的内阁 )

Yes, the cabinet for gas cylinders is attached to the foundation with self-tapping screws from the wind and lovers of other people's cabinets.

The bellows pipe is inserted into the gas cylinder cabinet through a hole in the rear wall (with a gasket with elastic polypropylene mounting tape). We assemble a unit with a gas shut-off valve and a fitting for switching to a gas hose. The hose acts as an additional dielectric spacer. It is also not worth saving 30 rubles on a hose: a multilayer high-quality frost and UV-resistant Austrian Semperit gas hose costs 50 rubles per meter. Clause 2-4.6.3 of NFPA 58 prohibits the use of gas hoses from non-brand manufacturers (that is, manufactured by someone unknown, unknown where, unknown how).Now about the reducers: this is an inexpensive but very important joke that reduces the pressure from a gas cylinder to a safe one (0.0015-0.003 MPa = 1.5-3.0 kPa). Baltika gearbox (left) costs two hundred rubles. This is a gas cylinder reducer with a valve. It is fixed on the cylinder with three spring-loaded balls. There are also "Belarusian" (or actually Chinese?) Reducers of the "frog" type for valve cylinders for the same two hundred rubles. On the right is an Italian (most likely Italian) gearbox costing about 350-400 rubles with a working pressure at the outlet of 3 kPa (30 mbar). The most important thing is that the connection of the reducer to the cylinder is provided with a threaded union. This type of gearbox is much safer. Most gas accidents are due to leaks in defective gearboxes. Gas cylinders with a valve are much less safe cylinders than cylinders with a valve - both during operation and during transport. And yet, since our gas quality is Russian, a fair amount of liquid gas condensate (3-5 liters) will gradually accumulate in the cylinder. With a valve gas cylinder, you will not be able to drain it and will regularly donate your money to refuellers at gas stations. The valve can be emptied of condensation (after depressurization) by inverting the bottle and opening the valve in a well-ventilated area free from sources of fire or sparks. And, by the way, do not leave to pay for gas until the refueller with you shows the weight of the cylinder without gas and the weight of the cylinder with gas. But you know ... Well, in general, everything is as usual with us ...Not all gas reducers are equally useful: on the left is the gas reducer, which is most likely Italian. Right: An adjustable gas regulator that is definitely not Italian. The most dangerous thing about this gearbox is the steel nut instead of the bronze one. If you are using a steel wrench to tighten a threaded joint, the steel of the wrench hitting the steel of the nut may spark. A blow from steel to bronze does not produce a spark. Also, the thickness of the fitting at the "left" gearbox is much smaller, which means that there is a higher likelihood of gas leakage. On the left - an imitation "mesh" made of plastic on the "left" gas reducer. On the right is a high-quality steel mesh of an Italian gas reducer.The "left" gas regulator is characterized by poor workmanship and assembly. The salesman of the company store of gas equipment, where I bought the reducer, looking into my eyes swore that both reducers were "firm" and "not kEtai". The "left" gearbox is more expensive))). The Italian gas reducer is equipped with detailed instructions installation instructions in multiple languages.Pull the gas hose onto the fitting and secure it with a worm-drive clamp. To make it easier to pull on the gas hose, grease the fitting with a clean tap water... If the gearbox and hose are branded, you will have to apply force to connect the hose to the gearbox.The Italian gas reducer does not require the installation of a paronite gasket: there is not even a place for it. The reducer is installed on the gas cylinder in a strictly horizontal position (the membrane is vertically upward).In our cabinet for liquefied gas cylinders, two gas cylinders with a capacity of 27 liters will be installed. This is the most convenient size of a gas cylinder in terms of the resource / transport ratio for a male owner. A woman needs smaller and lighter gas cylinders (13 liters). In 2013, the cost of refueling a 27-liter gas cylinder is 280 rubles. We have selected right size the size of the jets: this is evidenced by the nature of the flame on gas burners plates: flame of blue color without red or orange tabs and does not come off the burner nozzles. Keep in mind the peculiarity of gas stoves with gas control and electric ignition: the knob must be kept pressed during ignition for at least 5-7 seconds - otherwise the gas control will stop supplying gas, since the thermocouple of the sensor will not have time to heat up.If you have a gas stove connected, then you can see the table for how much you need to cook various products. For example, shrimp, so that they do not become "rubbery". And here you can see how we are
I repeat: do not copy done- work on connecting bottled gas at the dacha was done by a non-professional at his own peril and risk, with violations and mistakes. To connect bottled gas to the gas stove, contact a certified technician or gas service.

Before working with gas equipment, it is necessary to thoroughly study the regulatory literature on this issue, as our regular author Andrey Dachnik did. Otherwise, such work should be entrusted to a certified specialist or contact the gas service.

Installing the hob

The panel was placed in the center of the ventilation duct laid in the wall, to which the kitchen hood will be connected. An independent oven was planned to be installed under the countertop. The opening for the panel was cut out, having previously drilled holes in the corners into which it is easy to insert an electric jigsaw blade. Since our kitchen has a chipboard worktop, we protected the edge of the opening from water and swelling by applying a layer of sanitary silicone sealant to it. A sealing tape was glued to the edges of the opening under the slab.

The panel had to replace the gas injectors as it was set to main gas. Modern manufacturers include a set of nozzles with holes of different diameters in the scope of delivery of their products.

We placed our balloon installation on the street. This is required by the fire safety standards set forth in the Decree of the Government of the Russian Federation No. 390 "On the fire regime". And although in some other documents the installation of cylinders in apartments is allowed, we nevertheless decided not to risk it.

Correct placement of the gas cylinder

A number of requirements are also imposed on the placement of gas cylinders on the street.

So, they should be located in a steel grounded and protected from corrosion steel cabinet, closed from the penetration of unauthorized persons, rigidly fixed in a vertical position, with ventilation holes at the top and bottom. Gas cylinders must stand on a solid base that prevents them from overturning, or must be fixed vertically.

Cylinder cabinet - installation

The cylinder cabinet should not be located on the main facade of the building, but in a place where the heating of gas cylinders above + 45 ° C is excluded.

We have purchased a ready-made steel cabinet for two gas cylinders with a volume of 50 liters. I must say that the commercially available samples are made of thin metal and have poor-quality painting. We had to completely repaint the purchased wardrobe.

To install the cabinet, we have prepared reinforced concrete foundation with grounding. They did it at a deaf wall with north side houses, at the opposite wall from the entrance and the main facade. We fixed the cabinet to the foundation using dowel-nails, and then connected the ground. Additionally, we attached the cabinet to the wall of the house to prevent its deliberate overturning or theft.

Bellows pipe connection

It remains for us to lay the gas pipeline from the cylinder to the gas hob. We used a Kofulso non-breaking steel bellows gas pipe in a polymer sheath for the gas pipeline. It is protected by thermal insulation and a polymer corrugated sleeve, laid underground before entering the house. Underground laying will protect our gas pipeline from excessive cooling in winter. A pipe was introduced into the house directly in the kitchen - next to the hob.

The bellows pipe is connected using a special fitting with a dielectric gasket, which is required to protect against accidental arcing. The second reason for its use is to protect against the transfer of static electricity to gas cylinders.

When laying outside the gas pipeline in the room, a shut-off valve must be installed in front of the gas stove. Also, to increase safety, you can install a thermo-trigger valve and a valve that shuts off the gas supply when the critical concentration is exceeded. carbon monoxide... We installed them in gas cabinet using Kofulso fittings with dielectric spacers. Our gas panel, in addition, it is equipped with a system for automatically shutting off the gas supply in the absence of a flame in the burners.

At the outlet of the cylinders, a gas reducer is installed, which reduces the pressure from 0.1 MPa to 0.002-0.003 MPa.

Buying a high-quality household gas reducer in Russia is not easy: the market is flooded with fake devices. Features a high-quality gearbox - the following: the presence of packaging and instructions, bronze union nuts, high-quality nets in the lumen of the connecting nipple, the presence of markings indicating the manufacturer and the absence of grammatical errors in the applied markings.

Installing the gas reducer

The gas reducer can be connected directly to the bellows gas pipe. However, it is difficult to find gas reducers commercially available with both inlet and outlet threaded connections. Most have an outlet for a flexible hose. However, the connection using a gas-resistant reinforced hose is even more convenient when replacing the cylinder. In addition, the dielectric properties of the hose will protect the gas cylinders from static electricity.

So, we chose a quality Austrian gas hose from Semperit and connected it to a gas reducer. To do this, I had to make an effort and moisten the fitting with clean water.

A bronze wrench was used to tighten the nut. If it is not there, you can use a steel one, but in no case an adjustable one, since with it there is a much greater likelihood of a potential difference in static electricity and a spark.

After completing the installation of all elements of the gas supply system, carefully open the valves of the cylinder and the gas pipeline in stages, sequentially checking the tightness of the connections using soapy water or shaving foam. If everything is in order, we make the first test ignition of the gas stove.

And finally, a little more about fire safety. Everyone knows that there should be a fire extinguisher in the house. Meanwhile, in case of kitchen fires, the quickest way to extinguish a local fire is with a fire blanket, which you need to have in the kitchen.

How to connect a gas cylinder to a kitchen stove - photo

1.Packaged gas hob is awaiting installation.

2. Layout of the opening for the installation of the gas hob.

3.We drill holes in the corners of the opening in the tabletop ...

4 .... and cut out the opening with a jigsaw.

5.Apply silicone sealant on the edges of the opening in the worktop.

6.Glue the seal along the perimeter of the opening.

7.Fix the hob to the worktop.

8. Cut off the excess sealing tape around the hob.

9. Replacement of gas burner nozzles.

10.Panel installed

11.Finished cabinet for cylinders. Ventilation holes are visible in the bottom.

12. Pipes driven into the ground will become part of the foundation and at the same time grounding for the cabinet.

13. The foundation for the cylinders was pasted over with porcelain stoneware with wide gaps for ventilation and the grounding conductor was brought out.

14. Cabinet for gas cylinders is installed on the foundation.

15. Entering the gas pipeline into the house and laying along the wall. Used bellows gas pipe Kofulso in a polymer sheath.

16.Connection of the shut-off valve in the gas cabinet.

17.Household gas reducers with threaded connection. Left - a fake of an unknown manufacturer. On the right is a high-quality European-made gearbox.

18. The gas pressure regulator with the connected gas hose is installed on the gas cylinder. The working position of the gas reducer is strictly horizontal!

Andrey Dachnik St. Petersburg www.dom.dacha-dom.ru Photo by the author

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Then it is necessary to connect the reducer to the cylinder. You also need to remember about the gasket. The outlet of the reducer is connected to the fitting with a gas hose.

The flexible hose used must be inspected. It is also necessary to monitor its condition throughout the operation of the gas stove. The hose must be secured tightly with hose clamps. All work must be carried out in accordance with applicable rules and regulations.

The flexible hose must meet the required requirements. He must constantly maintain the temperature. The hose should not heat up by more than 30 ° C. Its length should not be more than 1.5 meters. Be sure to check if the hose has any constrictions. Bending and twisting must not be allowed. During work, the hose should not appear cracks and traces of burning. The material must be rigid and elastic at all times. The clamps must be free of rust. Particular attention must be paid to the timing of the hose. Make sure it doesn't expire. If discrepancies are found, replace immediately.

It is forbidden to replace the hose for connecting the gas stove to an oxygen or water hose. Their rubber quickly ages and becomes covered with cracks.

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Sources:

  • how to change a gas cylinder

Household gas is quite popular. cylinders... They are widespread among summer residents, as well as owners of their own houses, in which there is no centralized system gas supply. A household gas cylinder is a container for storing propane, which is used as fuel for kitchen stoves.

Instructions

The most successful and reliable are considered cylinders having valves to which a reducer with a gas pipeline is connected. These valves are similar in appearance to union nuts. Propane cylinder reducers are designed to reduce the pressure of the gas that enters the cylinder. Also, with their help, the set pressure is automatically maintained during gas-flame treatment.

The easiest way is to connect the reducer to the cylinder that is equipped with. The connection is made by means of a threaded connection on the valve connection and the union nut of the gearbox. Tighten the nuts with an open-end wrench. A special gasket is required between the union nut of the gearbox and the union. It is forbidden to use the gasket several times.

Built-in household kitchen appliances is becoming more and more popular. Most requested devices of this type are built-in gas stoves or gas surfaces. In addition to the installation itself, before use, it is necessary to correctly connect the gas surface.

You will need

  • - gas hose;
  • - torque wrench;
  • - three-core wire;
  • - possibly a terminal block;
  • - Phillips and flathead screwdrivers.

Instructions

Review the accompanying documentation. Carefully review all available documentation that shipped with your product. Read the section on gas surface installation and connection carefully. Typically, the documentation contains both general recommendations, as well as very specific instructions regarding the connection process. In particular, the manual should contain information on color coding wires of the electric ignition system.

Connect the gas surface to the power supply wire. Using the documentation, identify the terminals for phase, neutral, and ground connections. Connect the surface leads to the corresponding supply conductors. For connection, use terminal blocks or the method specified in the instructions.

Connect surface to the hose. Clean the head of the gas inlet of the device and the nut from all contamination. Insert a resilient pad or hard filter with resilient lip into the hose nut. Attach the nut to the nipple. Tighten the nut with a torque wrench or.

Fix surface at the installation site. Loosen the screws that tighten the mounting brackets. Correct the position of the device. Check that the gas hose is not kinked or tightly kinked. Hook the brackets over the edge of the bearing surface. Tighten the screws.

note

Tighten the gas hose nut only with a torque wrench or by hand. Otherwise, the rubber seal may be damaged and gas leakage may occur. Replace the gas hose every three years to prevent gas leaks through cracks that form when the hose loses its elasticity. Always connect the gas surface via a three-core wire, use electrical outlets with grounding.

Useful advice

To determine the correspondence of the conductors of the supply wire to the contacts of the electrical plug, use a multimeter in ohmmeter mode.

Currently living most time in the city, people are accustomed to enjoying all the benefits of civilization, such as water, gas, communications and electricity. And when it comes to the question of a weekend trip to the country, they try to provide themselves with the same comfort. However, one of the most essential appliances in the country is a stove for cooking. It is very problematic to take a stationary one with you and therefore most often they use a tabletop gas stove.

Instructions

The advantage of a gas stove is its portability, low weight (about 6 or 8 kg), independence from electricity, simplicity of design and ease of use. And, most importantly, at a lower cost compared to electrical, especially induction.

Before a desktop gas stove for a summer residence, it is worth deciding on the number of people who will be with you, the length of stay in the country and the area of ​​the kitchen itself. Depending on where the gas stove will be located, it depends whether you can install a two-burner, three-burner or four-burner model.

When choosing a stove, you should pay attention to the following. The tabletop stove for the summer cottage must be adapted to work on liquefied gases and their mixtures, but remember that for this it must be equipped with a jet (adapter), which is not available in all models.
It is also worth paying attention to the durability of the enamel coating - it should be practical. It is better to take a stainless steel stove, since it is more practical and much easier to clean. It is better to purchase a gas stove with a lid that prevents it from clogging up while you are not using it.

It is not cost-effective to purchase equipment with electric ignition, since electricity will be required to operate it. It is worth taking such a plate if your summer cottage no electricity problem. If you make a choice in favor of a stove with this function, then you should choose a piezo ignition, which has become very popular at the present time. If you have a kitchen no more than 20 square meters, then it is allowed to install only a two-burner tabletop gas stove.

In order to dry fruit or bake a cake in the dacha, you can purchase a tabletop gas stove with an electric oven if you have electricity in your dacha. In case you are afraid that the mixture will suddenly run out in the gas cylinder, it is better to purchase a three-burner tabletop gas stove. It consists of two gas burners and one electric pancake.

From this we can conclude that a tabletop gas stove is inexpensive, transportable and compact. Appliances, which you can independently install at the right time and in the desired place without any problems. But even so, do not forget the safety rules, which say - in no case should you make changes to the design of equipment yourself!

The tabletop is one of the most convenient household appliances, popular outside the city, in the country. Today, the manufacturer offers many options for a suburban "assistant", but when choosing, you need to take into account whole line factors.

The compactness and "mobility" of the desktop gas stove determined its main place of use, - Vacation home, dacha. The choice of such equipment primarily depends on the number of "users", the time they spend in the country and the area of ​​the kitchen. The last factor is associated with the choice of a model according to the number of burners; in a cramped kitchen (up to 20 sq. m.), it hardly makes sense to install a four-burner gas appliance. In addition, there are many more criteria that should be taken into account that affect the comfort of using a tabletop gas stove.

Factors for choosing a tabletop gas stove

Any gas stove is designed to work with a certain type gas: main or "balloon" (propane-butane and its mixtures). Usually the stove is designed for connection to the main gas. If there is no pipeline in your area or you are not connected to it, pay attention to the complete set of the purchased device; it must be accompanied by a special adapter-jet, which allows the stove to be operated when connected to a standard gas cylinder.

The second thing to look at is product design. Enamel slabs are cheaper than stainless steel slabs. However, if it is supposed to constantly take the device to the city, then it is better to buy a “stainless steel” stove - the enamel is often chipped off, and unprotected places quickly rust. In addition, stainless steel is easier to clean. The second moment that determines the choice of design is the presence of a cover; it will be needed if the device for a long time do not use, otherwise the stove will have to be washed from dust at each arrival. Many manufacturers offer stoves with electric ignition: this also needs to be paid attention to. If there are interruptions with electricity, then it is better to refuse to buy such a device; Alternatively, you can purchase a piezo igniter.

Features of gas table stoves

Popular among summer residents are the so-called. universal plates; these devices have a pair of burners designed for connecting bottled gas and one electric "pancake". A very convenient thing if there are no power outages. For lovers of pies, you can advise tabletop with an oven. There are two options here: the oven can be powered by gas or electricity. In conclusion, it is worth noting that gas in the stove will cost less than using electricity.

Installation of gas equipment

For the normal functioning of the gas stove, it is necessary to choose the right place for installing the cylinder. It is better if it is on the street, but it must be borne in mind that at negative temperatures the gas evaporates very poorly, as a result of which the stove will not be able to work fully. For outdoor installation, the cylinder should be located at least 1 meter from doors and 0.2 meters from windows. If there is a basement or basement nearby, you must maintain a distance of 3 meters. The location of the gas cylinder must be protected from overheating (heating above + 45C must not be allowed), therefore it is recommended to install the container in a special (preferably metal) cabinet.

If the cylinder is installed outdoors, then the gas supply must be carried out by means of a metal pipe located at least 2.2 m from the ground. The cylinder itself and the gas stove are connected to the pipe using (have yellow or a color of the same shade). The distance from the gas tank to the stove is no closer than 0.5 m, and the volume of the room where the stove is installed must be at least 8 cubic meters. m.

Connection

Gas stoves are designed for a certain pressure - 0.3 MPa. Because the pressure in the cylinder may be different; a reducer is used to equalize it. It connects between the cylinder and the metal pipe. When connecting, pay attention to the presence of a special gasket and the thread of the gearbox - it is left-handed. When purchasing a gas stove, ask if it is designed for bottled gas. It's all about the diameter of the nozzles; for bottled gas, it should be 0.89-0.93 mm. However, a number of manufacturers complete their products with adapters that allow you to connect the stove to both main and cylinder gas.

Connected gearbox, hoses should be located in an easily accessible place. After the installation of the equipment is completed, it is necessary to check the tightness of the connections. To do this, coat all the connecting points with soapy foam. When unscrewing the valve of the gas cylinder, inspect the entire "route"; a loose connection can be seen from the outgoing soap bubbles... There are also restrictions on the places of installation of gas cylinders and stoves: basements, cellars, other confined spaces below ground level. This is due to the special property of a propane-butane mixture, which is heavier than air, to accumulate in an unventilated place, which is fraught with poisoning or an explosion.

Liquefied gas, which is filled with cylinders for subsequent use, is always under high blood pressure... To lower it onto the cylinder, it is necessary to install a special type of shut-off and distribution valves - a propane reducer. Subsequently, the reducer automatically maintains the preset gas pressure level. According to safety regulations, the device is always painted bright red - the same color as the propane cylinders.

Design and types

Propane (CH 3) 2 CH 2 is a natural gas with a high calorific value: at 25 ° C the heat of combustion exceeds 120 kcal / kg. At the same time, it should be used with special precautions, since propane is odorless, but even with its concentration in the air of only 2.1%, it is explosive. It is especially important that being lighter than air (the density of propane is only 0.5 g / cm 3), propane rises, and therefore, even at relatively low concentrations, is a danger to human well-being.

A propane reducer must perform two functions - to provide a strictly defined level of pressure when a device is connected to it, and to guarantee the stability of the values ​​of such pressure during further operation. Most often, gas welding machines, gas heaters, heat guns and other types of heating equipment are used as such devices. This gas is also used for the propane cylinder of a car running on liquefied fuel.

There are two types of propane gearboxes - one- and two-chamber. The latter are used less often, since they are more complex in their structure, and their distinctive ability - to consistently reduce the gas pressure in two chambers - is used in practice only with increased requirements for the permissible level of pressure drops. Common models of gearboxes are BPO 5-3, BPO5-4, SPO-6, etc. The second number in the designation indicates the nominal pressure, MPa, at which the safety device is triggered.

Structurally, a single-chamber propane reducer of the BPO-5 type (Balloon Propane Single-chamber) consists of the following units and parts:

  1. Housings.
  2. Pusher.
  3. Valve seat.
  4. Reducing spring.
  5. Membranes.
  6. Down valve.
  7. Connecting nipple.
  8. Inlet fitting.
  9. The driving spring.
  10. Strainer.
  11. Pressure gauge.
  12. Adjusting screw.

The main technical characteristics propane reducers are:

  • Maximum throughput by the volume of gas per unit of time, kg / h (marked with a number located immediately after the letter abbreviation; for example, a propane reducer of the BPO-5 type is designed to pass no more than 5 kg of propane per hour);
  • Maximum inlet gas pressure, MPa. Depending on the standard size of the device, it can be in the range from 0.3 to 2.5 MPa;
  • Maximum outlet pressure; in most designs, it is 0.3 MPa, and is adapted to a similar indicator for a gas-consuming unit.

All manufactured propane gearboxes must fully comply with the requirements of GOST 13861.

The principle of the gearbox

The device is connected to a gas cylinder using a union nut, the thread on which is strictly defined: Sp21.8LH (left). This is done in order to exclude the possibility of connecting a gearbox for other equipment. The connecting nut is made of brass, and must be provided with a transition shoulder, which prevents possible gas leaks. When using propane cylinders made according to the European standard KLF with an already installed O-ring and a filter on the fitting, you will also need a special adapter.

The propane reducer works like this. Gas from the cylinder first passes through a mesh filter, from where it enters the lower high pressure chamber. Next, the required value of the working pressure is adjusted. To do this, the adjusting screw is rotated clockwise, acting on the reference spring. The spring pushes the pressure plate, and through the reducing spring, the pusher and the diaphragm transmits the force to the pressure reducing valve. It opens, and through the resulting gap between the valve and its seat opens the way for propane in working chamber... A low pressure gauge is used to control the actual gas pressure. In order to connect a sleeve, cutter or other unit to the device, an outlet connecting nipple is provided. For connection, usually a union nut with thread M16 × 1.5LH is used.

When gas is supplied at initial pressure, the following occurs: the diaphragm closes the inlet valve (the level of pressure required for this depends on the area of ​​the diaphragm, its diameter and the setting of the reference spring). The level of propane pressure at the outlet of the reducer depends on the degree of overlapping of the hole. Since when gas is supplied high pressure the membrane makes an abrupt movement, household gas reducers of this type are often called "frog". "Frog" - a typical representative of a propane reducer, which is used to supply gas to simple household appliances. Unlike the aforementioned devices BPO 5-3, BPO 5-4, etc., the "frog" does not have a unit for adjusting the pressure of the inlet gas, and its performance is determined solely by the physical and mechanical characteristics of the membrane material. Therefore, these gear units are designed for use strictly under the conditions specified by the manufacturer. "Frogs", as a rule, have reduced operational capabilities (in particular, flow rate and outlet pressure), but they are more compact and differ in a lower price (290 ... 350 rubles versus 450 ... 700 rubles for single-chamber devices or 1200 ... 1300 RUB - for two-chamber). It is permissible to connect the "frog" with a clamp.


How to choose a propane reducer model?

Prerequisites for the devices in question industrial production must be:

  1. The presence of a tight fit to the body metal cover.
  2. Indelible marking, which indicates the pressure parameters for which the device is designed.
  3. Universal connection nipple for commonly used hose diameters (6.3 mm, 9 mm).
  4. Firm adhesion of all sealing parts (gaskets) to the corresponding surfaces. Usually, this is checked by soap solution, when applied to the surface, no air bubbles should form
  5. Brass body (steel is prone to rust).
  6. Convenient handwheel for moving the adjusting screw.
  7. Spare gasket (optionally, an adapter for propane cylinders of European standard, Swedish or Norwegian production can also be attached).
  8. Compliance with domestic safety standards - GOST 12.2.052 - 81.

In the process of selecting the size of the propane reducer, the permissible level of external temperatures is also taken into account, at which its use does not pose a danger to others. Usually the climatic class of these devices is UHL2, in which the reducer can be used in the temperature range of -25 ... + 50 ° С. For the UHL class (temperate zone), the corresponding range is -15 ... + 45 ° С. In this case, the coefficient of unevenness of the transmitted pressure should not exceed ± 0.15.

The external state of the device is also of great importance for the applicability of the gear unit. The housing of a propane gearbox must be free of surface dents and scratches, not to mention shape changes. The same applies to the condition of the control pressure gauge. Before installing it in a stationary state, the pressure gauge should be checked for serviceability by supplying compressed air: if the pointer of the device is stationary, the gearbox cannot be used.

The purchased device must fully comply with the technical characteristics of the unit for the operation of which it is intended. In particular, the gas flow rate cannot exceed the operating characteristics of the reducer. If the pressure at the outlet of the reducer is exceeded (in comparison with the nominal values), the automatic control of the main equipment, as a rule, fails, and the equipment itself is turned off. The limit values ​​for the pressure used must not exceed 10% allowable values for vehicles of this class. The device must have a certificate of conformity in Russia.

Installation and use sequence

A propane reducer of any type and design is considered a high-risk technique, therefore, when installing it, a number of mandatory requirements must be observed:

  1. The room (if the gearbox is mounted to an internal consumer) is thoroughly ventilated. Moreover, the window / window must remain open during the entire duration of the initial start-up.
  2. The correct sequence for using the device is as follows: first, the valve on the propane cylinder opens smoothly. Then the valve of the reducer opens and only then - of the gas-consuming equipment. By turning the handwheel of the adjusting screw, the required operating pressure level is set. Disconnection is made in the reverse order. When extraneous sounds appear - clicks, hiss, etc. - the equipment is immediately switched off.
  3. After installing a stable gas passage through the reducer, follow the readings of the pressure gauge needle, which should not deviate more than the pressure fluctuations that are indicated in the passport. Otherwise, the use of the technique is stopped. A slow increase in gas pressure is considered especially dangerous.

  1. Once every 2 ... 3 months, the tightness of all joints is checked, and if necessary, the threaded fasteners are tightened.
  2. If it is necessary for routine maintenance of the propane reducer - blowing the valve - the device is disconnected from the gas main, after which the rest of the gas is released from all working cavities of the device. All subsequent operations are carried out only in special workshops that have test benches.
  3. After the end of the application, the inlet valve on the gearbox is closed all the way. In this case, the spring will not be released, and its efficiency will increase.
  4. In order to comply with fire safety rules, it is advisable to provide for the device of flame extinguishing devices between the gearbox and the gas-consuming installation.

The main task of the gas reducer is to reduce the pressure of the gas coming from the gas pipeline or cylinder to the operating value and maintain it within the specified range in automatic mode. In this case, changes in the pressure of the gas mixture entering the reducer for the gas cylinder should not have any effect on the operation of the device. Despite the clarity and brevity of the definition of the method of operation of the gas reducer, according to the principle of operation, they can be divided into two completely different types.

As the gas passes through the choke and enters the high-pressure chamber, an action is noted to open the valve. The pressure reducing valve is pressed directly to the seat due to the closing spring, which thereby eliminates the possibility of high pressure gas access.

The main task of the membrane is to remove the pressure reducing valve from the seat, which helps to reduce the gas pressure and its entry into the chamber already at the working pressure. It can be said that the membrane is subjected to two opposite forces:

  • Pressure spring action required to open the valve
  • Low pressure gas action from the reducer chamber

When the gas pressure in the working chamber decreases, the pressure spring straightens, the valve leaves the seat and opens the way for a new portion of blue fuel. With an increase in pressure, the spring, on the contrary, is compressed, pressing the valve even more tightly to the seat, which limits the flow of gas into the reducer.

The adjusting screw makes it possible to adjust the working pressure by changing the pressure on the spring. Obviously, when turning it inside out operating pressure will decrease, and when screwed up, it will increase.

A pressure gauge installed on the working chamber will allow you to monitor the pressure at any time. It should be noted that, in practice, reducers for direct-type gas cylinders have not found too widespread use.

Reverse type

When gas enters the working chamber from the cylinder, the valve is compressed, which prevents the flow of fuel. The feed can be adjusted with a special screw, which, when turned out, compresses the compression spring and bends the membrane. In this case, the transfer disc is pressed against the return spring, the valve is lifted and gas penetrates into the working chamber. How is the working pressure regulated in automatic mode?

Simultaneously with the increase in pressure in the gas pipeline, the pressure in the working chamber also increases, as a result of which the diaphragm is straightened under the action of a compressing spring. This lowers the transfer disc, which acts on the return spring, which, in turn, pushes the valve into the seat. As a result of this, the supply of gas from the cylinder or gas pipeline to the working chamber is reduced, respectively, when the gas pressure in the pipeline decreases, a reverse reaction is triggered.

Scheme of the reducer operation for gas of direct (a) and reverse (b) types. 1. Stop spring 2. Valve 3. Pusher 4. Diaphragm 5. Pressure disk 6. Spring

Classification according to the application

In general, all automatic pressure control devices can be divided into reducers for inert gases (nitrogen, argon, helium, etc.) and combustible gases (hydrogen, propane, methane, and others). In order not to be confused, the gearboxes are equipped with different threads.

So, reducers of combustible gases have a left-hand thread, and for inert gases (including oxygen) - a right-hand thread.

  • Oxygen reducers are used in the production of work related to cutting, brazing and gas welding. Also used in medical facilities and diving.
  • Acetylene reducers are used for cutting pipelines and gas welding... In addition, they are actively used in car repair shops and service stations when carrying out body repairs.
  • Propane reducers are used when carrying out work related to gas welding, cutting and heating. In addition, they are used to organize high-quality gas supply from cylinders to gas stoves, as well as in construction, in particular, when installing a roof using bituminous tiles.
  • Air reducers are used to reduce air pressure in networks and various air communications, they are also in demand on submarines.

Features of using composite gas cylinders

This type of cylinders is an innovation among gas tanks. Compared to their predecessors, composite cylinders are comparatively lighter and safer. When such a container explodes, no fragments are formed at all.

Another indisputable advantage of composite gas cylinders is the absence of corrosion processes inside. Along with this, a number of increased requirements are imposed on devices operated together with composite containers.

The main task of the gas regulator when working with composite cylinders is to maintain a stable outlet pressure within a given range. Together with containers of this type, regulators are used that comply with the standards of the European model EN 12864.

An example is the A310i-A310i device, which differs from the usual RDGS 1-1.2 in the following:

  • Complete with a nut that can be screwed in without the use of great efforts;
  • Longer service life of the gasket under the valve, which is at least 10 years.

The design features include the presence of a spout recessed in the outlet opening and a circular shoulder located in the valve seal. These design features are aimed at creating a better sealing of the connection.

At the same time, gearboxes should not be confused with regulators for composite tanks, which, by creating optimal pressure fuel supply regulate its consumption, measured in liters per minute.

The regulator can be used as a universal type, as well as made for a specific model of a composite vessel. The optimal solution the purchase of a cylinder and a regulator from the same manufacturer is considered.

How to choose

One of the most common choice in this class of devices is the RDGS-1 device, the main advantages of which are affordable cost and simplicity of design. RDGS-1 is produced in Russia and Belarus, below are the main characteristics of the device:

  • Inlet pressure value 0.07 - 1.6 MPa
  • Outlet pressure value 2950 - 3300 Pa
  • Gas consumption 1.2 m3 / hour
  • Weight 310 gr
  • Operating temperature range -30 ° С + 45 ° С

Reducer RGDS-1

Instead of the time-tested RDGS-1 gearbox, the price of which is 150-200 rubles, you can buy a more modern model. For example, the Italian device m714, which costs a little more (about 250 rubles).

Typically, this reducer is supplied with a Pullover1 gas-type heater, but it can be purchased separately. The reducer is equipped with a gasket made of elastic material, which has a five-time use. The inlet pressure of the m714 is between 0-20 bar and the outlet pressure is 30 mbar.

Often, to connect composite cylinders to burners, a German-made GOK model is used, which costs about 500 rubles. However, there are also more expensive models.

So the N240 gearbox, which costs more than 1000 rubles, has the following characteristics:

  • Inlet pressure up to 18 bar
  • The value of the outlet pressure is adjustable within the range of 20 - 60 mbar
  • Productivity - 4 l / hour
  • Operating temperature range -20 ° С + 50 ° С

Reducer N24

In the environment of gas cutters, another type of gearboxes, called miniature, has become widespread. A striking representative of this class can be considered a gearbox general use BPO-5, the main technical characteristics of which are:

  • Inlet pressure up to 2.5 MPa
  • The value of the outlet pressure up to 0.3 MPa
  • Weight 0.65kg

It must be remembered that the purchase and installation of a reducer for a gas cylinder is a serious and responsible step. Not only the quality of the gas appliances, but also the safety of everyone who will use this appliance largely depends on the correct choice.