Yellowing is a natural consequence of the death of plant tissues... IN yellow leaves and the stems lack chlorophyll - a substance responsible for the process of photosynthesis, which is the main source of energy for the plant. Such parts are a burden for the plant and soon dry out and fall off.
Depending on what is the cause of the phalaenopsis malaise, yellowing will look different. Sunburns leave uneven brown spots, with a lack of moisture, the leaves will become dry and yellow, with an excess of moisture - lethargic and wet.
Not only the leaves can turn yellow, but also the stem of the orchid... This suggests that the problem has become large-scale; it will be much more difficult to save such a plant.
If the peduncle turns yellow and dries up, this is not a reason to panic. Most likely, everything is in order with the plant and this process only indicates the end of the flowering period. A yellowed peduncle can be safely cut off, leaving a stump 2-3 cm high; with proper care, a new one will grow in its place in a few months.
Causes of the problem
Before taking any measures to save the phalaenopsis, it is important to figure out what the problem is from, otherwise there are high chances of causing irreparable harm to the plant.
Unfortunately, the yellowed leaves will have to be removed, since it is no longer possible to save them, it is important to stop the spread of the problem in a timely manner, understand its cause and take appropriate measures.
How do you know if the color may change?
Leaf yellowing can happen very quickly, therefore it is important to carefully examine the orchid regularly every 3-4 days... Having noticed the first signs of a change in the color of the leaf, it is necessary to immediately begin to save the phalaenopsis.
If the area of damage is insignificant (small yellow or yellow-green areas, dry leaf edge or dry brown spots), with prompt elimination of the source of the problem, the leaf can be saved and the orchid will not need a long rehabilitation period.
Step-by-step instructions on what to do for treatment
As stated earlier, before starting treatment, it is necessary to determine exactly what caused the yellowing of the orchid.
Natural causes
Over time, the leaves of any plant grow old and die off, it is normal for phalaenopsis to lose one leaf a year, this is a natural process that does not require any response.
Sunburn
Orchids need bright lighting, but they cannot tolerate direct sunlight. Excessive overheating may cause the leaves to dry out partially. First aid in this case will be to eliminate the source of damage - the orchid must be rearranged in a shaded place with diffused lighting.
Leaves exposed to the sun should not be removed. despite their unaesthetic appearance, their healthy part is still able to benefit the plant.
Lack of illumination
Orchids are tropical plants and are accustomed to a day length of at least 10 hours. Lack of light, especially in winter period, can lead to yellowing and wilting of leaves. It is possible to compensate for the lack of natural light with the help of special phytolamps; ordinary fluorescent lamps are also suitable.
Important! Using artificial lighting it is necessary to choose lamps that do not emit heat.
Incorrect feeding
Both a shortage and an excess of fertilizer can have a detrimental effect on phalaenopsis. In case of insufficient feeding, you can use a universal fertilizer for orchids.
At the first application, the fertilizer concentration must be reduced several times from the recommended one. In the future, it must be gradually increased in order to reach the amount indicated in the instructions in about 3 months.
In the case when it comes about an excess of fertilizer, first of all, you need to immediately stop feeding. If the yellowing of the leaves continues, the following procedure is recommended.:
- The orchid is removed from the pot and placed in a container of room temperature water for 30-40 minutes.
- The root system is carefully examined, all dry and damaged areas must be removed, the cut sites must be treated with crushed activated carbon.
- A new substrate is being prepared and the orchid is planted; if necessary, a new pot with a larger diameter can be used.
Lack of moisture
If the leaves of an orchid turn yellow and dry out, this is a sure sign that it does not have enough moisture, as a rule, this is a consequence of insufficient or improper watering For example, when top watering is used, the drainage layer quickly removes moisture from the substrate and the roots do not have time to absorb enough of it.
The main way to save an orchid in this case is to normalize watering.
Reference! Phalaenopsis should be watered exclusively by immersion for approximately 30 minutes.
Fungal diseases
Most often, the fungus affects the orchid due to excessive watering, the leaves begin to turn yellow, darken, soften, and ulcers may appear on them. This disease is contagious and can affect other flowers, so the first step is to isolate the affected plant and completely remove all damaged areas (including those on the roots).
Places of cuts are treated with crushed activated carbon, or a special antiseptic, after which the phalaenopsis must be transplanted into a new substrate. It also makes sense to treat the plant with a fungicide.
Bacterial infections
The bacteria usually infect old leaves, they begin to become covered with yellow spots and small wet sores, become soft and darken. It is important to remove the affected leaf as soon as possible before the infection spreads to the orchid stem. Places of cuts must be decontaminated. As with fungus, fungicide treatment will help.
Viral infections
Viruses are extremely rare in orchids. As a rule, the development of the disease begins as a result of stress and abrupt changes in conditions. If a virus is suspected, the plant is treated with antibiotics. The orchid must be quarantined for the duration of the treatment.
Prophylaxis
To prevent re-yellowing, you must follow the rules for caring for phalaenopsis and create it comfortable conditions... A healthy, strong plant is more resilient and able to resist disease.
Orchid care rules are pretty simple.:
Attentive attitude and proper care will allow the orchid to grow strong, healthy and bloom regularly. If the illness could not be avoided, the most important thing is to notice the signs of malaise in a timely manner and begin to fight them, otherwise save exotic beauty it will be very difficult.
Useful video
We invite you to watch a video about the yellowing of the leaves of an orchid:
He does not need special care, but certain rules for caring for this plant must be observed. Otherwise, this specific flower can get sick with diseases characteristic of this species and even die from them.
First of all, the plants begin to signal about the disease by turning yellow and sluggish leaves... You need to react to this signal quickly in order to prevent the death of the flower affected by the disease.
In fact, the color of orchid leaves changes for several reasons, so even a novice amateur florist can easily react in time and save the plant.
The most common mistake of a grower, which leads to yellowing of orchid leaves, is considered to be abundant watering of the flower. Phalaenopsis is not an ordinary houseplant, its aerial roots do not need soil. The orchid is placed in a pot filled with substrate or bark. This is done in order to fix the flower, to help it maintain an upright position. Aerial roots do not need moisture, they only need a constant flow of air. The layer of water that gets inside the pot blocks the access of oxygen to the roots of the orchid. The roots rot from moisture and cannot perform well their main function - to feed orchid leaves. Without adequate nutrition, some leaf plates turn yellow and die. Leaves that have not yet changed their color become soft and lethargic. In the most critical cases, the rotting process affects the stem, then the stem turns black completely, and the flower dies.
Like all orchids, phalaenopsis are grown in transparent pots filled with bark or substrate, so it is possible to observe the condition of the roots, the degree of moisture in the bark and choose the correct watering regime for the flower. The main signs of excess moisture inside the pot are considered as follows:
- Wet bark and dark in color
- Condensation on the sides of the pot
- Green roots pressed against the side of the pot
- Heavy flower pot
If you notice any of these signs on your flower, do not water it. Pay attention to the appearance of dry, healthy roots and make sure that the roots of the orchid remain the same.
If decay has already begun, then the leaves of such a plant will acquire yellowness with black blotches, and the roots will completely turn black. If these signs are found, the flower must be removed from the pot and planting material, remove all damaged roots and leaves. Only after that, take resuscitation measures to further save the orchid. Sometimes they are limited to just a transplant. A plant sick with rot needs a minimum of moisture. It is enough to cover the base of the flower with moistened moss, which must be sprayed periodically.
If the plant has died most of root system, and some green leaves are preserved, rescue measures need to be carried out in a mini-greenhouse. To observe the restoration of the roots of an orchid, you do not need to plant it in a new substrate. It is better to secure the plant with coconut fiber and pine bark, placing it on a substrate. After that, cover the phalaenopsis with a transparent cap and put it in a place that is not exposed to direct sunlight. The orchid substrate should be periodically moistened, and the leaves should be wiped with a damp cloth.
Excess light
Phalaenopsis does not like direct sunlight and prefers shady places... It grows and develops well even at a distance from the window. The sun's rays and glare can cause burns on phalaenopsis leaves. Flower leaves can be affected in one of three degrees:
- Thin yellowish border, appears on the leaves under increased illumination
- Gutters - several yellowish spots merging into one spot, appears with little exposure to the sun
- Large, yellowish shapeless burn spots, sometimes like scorched tissue, like a film Brown, appears with prolonged exposure to direct sunlight
In the case of local damage to the orchid, it is enough to move it to another place, which better fit for the health of the flower. A leaf damaged by light can be removed or the phalaenopsis can be allowed to shed it on its own. If a plant has many leaves damaged by light, then you need to examine its stem and roots. An orchid can be saved if the roots and stem are still firm and green. The flower needs to be moved to another place, for example in the shade, and the local humidity level must be increased without watering. If the roots of the flower have dried up, and the stem has turned yellow, then the chances of saving the plant are practically zero.
Growth point damage
Phalaenopsis has a single stem that is constantly growing. This phenomenon is called monopodial growth. The top of the phalaenopsis stem is called the growth point. Damage to this point can lead to the death of the plant. Growth point damage mechanically is rare, mainly due to the onset of rotting of the stem tip. In any of these cases, the orchid leaves will change their color, and yellowing will touch the stem of the plant and go down to the root system. Sometimes the growth of the main stem freezes after the appearance of a basal baby in the plant. The orchid transfers its development to a young flower.
Natural causes
Phalaenopsis feels good and develops well if it loses one of its lowest leaves in a year. This is how it goes life cycle at the orchid. First, the leaf plate of the flower turns yellow, then the leaf turns bright yellow, wrinkled, acquires a brown tint and dies off.
Why did the orchid's leaves turn yellow? Causes and effects (video)
Indoor orchids are indigenous to tropical and subtropical regions of the world that require careful and careful handling. Errors in care and uncomfortable conditions lead to the fact that the leaves of the orchid turn yellow. In some cases, drying foliage is a natural process, old greens die off, leaving the place fresh, but if it turns yellow and dies en masse, urgent action is needed.
The main causes of yellow leaves
First of all, among the reasons, it is necessary to note the natural aging of the orchid. Each leaf has its own life cycle, the change of leaves is typical for most plants. Leaf shedding takes place every year (during dormancy or during flowering) ... The older the plant, the more likely it is that some green mass will turn yellow and fall off.
In mass hybrids (Phalaenopsis, Cattleya and Pafiopedilum), one lower layer dries up. On rare occasions dry up two sprouts at once. In some plants, all the leaves can fall off, both faded and alive.
If only the lower part of the orchid leaves undergoes yellowing processes, then do not rush to do anything. Leaflet dry up completely and will separate on its own. It is not worth trimming or cutting out the dead parts of the plant, so as not to injure the culture once again.
Inspect the flower regularly, it usually turns yellow very quickly - within 1-4 days.
However, in most cases, the orchid turns yellow due to mistakes that the florist makes when caring for the plant. It is a demanding culture and reacts sharply to an unsuccessful choice of a place for a pot or improper watering.
The main reasons why orchid leaves turn yellow are as follows:
- watering errors;
- insufficient or excessive moisture in the soil and air;
- unsuitable soil;
- excess direct sunlight;
- improper fertilization.
In addition, this problem may occur with some diseases plants and as a result of damage by pests.
Orchid care mistakes
To determine the reason why the leaves of the orchid turn yellow, it is necessary to reconsider the care of the plant and find, what is the mistake.
Poor watering regime
Errors in watering the plant lead to disruption of the natural metabolism, as a result of which the leaves acquire an unhealthy color.
When watering from a watering can, the soil under the plant is poorly moistened, since the drainage quickly removes water, preventing the roots from absorbing it. Nutrients are in short supply, the younger, stronger leaves actually take them away from the older ones. Similar problems are typical for orchid varieties such as ludisia, celogyny, bletilla, dendrobium, cymbidium. To avoid this, you need to switch to the immersion type of irrigation. After a week or two, the state of the plant will return to normal.
Infrequent watering can also affect the color of the plant, for example, the stems and leaves of the phalaenopsis turn yellow if it does not receive enough water.
Increased soil moisture
However, most often the problem arises from the overflow of the plant, especially for beginners. In constantly wet soil, it is difficult for the plant to breathe, bacteria develop in it, due to which the roots begin to rot, after which the leaves of the orchid turn yellow. What to do in this case, you can answer by revising the watering regime.
When watering, it is necessary to look not only at the top layer, which dries quickly, but also to assess the condition of the substrate under it. It is recommended to grow orchids in transparent containers so that the soil is clearly visible. You can stick a wooden stick into opaque pots and monitor its condition: if the stick quickly becomes wet, then it's too early to water.
Experienced growers advise to determine the moisture content of the soil using the weight of the pot, lifting it into the air - a dry substrate is much lighter than a wet one. Also, the plant can be easily pulled out of the container, it can be easily rotated in the pot.
The following factors indicate waterlogging of the soil:
- discoloration of all processes, and not just the lower leaves;
- black spots form on the leaves themselves (sometimes in the trunk area);
- leaves are too soft to the touch and wet;
- the roots became dark and covered with black blotches.
If decay has begun, then the orchid must be transplanted. During transplantation, you need to remove rotten roots, sprinkle the slices with activated carbon.
Sometimes the leaves become yellow due to too hard water with impurities that can grease the soil. In this case, it is necessary to replace the soil by adding about 20% peat to it, which neutralizes the hardness of the water, and also to use softened water for irrigation. After transplanting, it is recommended to wash the leaves with liquid fertilizer for orchids.
Overdrying the plant with the sun
Prolonged exposure to sunlight can also be very harmful. A flower that has stood on the hot side throughout the summer can get an extensive sunburn... Such deformations of the leaf are visible immediately: overheated leaves quickly turn yellow in areas that have received an excessive dose of rays.
In this case, it is necessary to change the place of cultivation of the crop or cover it from the sun, for example, with other plants - with wider and spreading leaves.
The area around the burn dries out over time. It is not necessary to remove such a leaf - a healthy orchid has enough strength to restore the affected areas.
Another reason - bad light... In the cold season, it is advised to supplement the plant with additional artificial light (fluorescent lamps and photolamps) - but with care so as not to burn the flower at rest.
The most light-loving of orchids are Cattleya, Lelia, Vanda. It is undesirable to place them on north side, because in this case the leaves will not only turn yellow, but also fall off.
Poorly matched fertilizer
Problems with leaves can occur if the plant is not properly fed:
- unsuitable fertilizer;
- overfeeding a flower;
- a lack of nutrients.
Many sellers carry out pre-sale preparation, feeding the plants with special stimulants in order to get a beautiful and presentable product. If you continue to apply fertilizers as intensively after purchase, then an overfed orchid may not live long, after which its leaves will begin to turn yellow and wither. An excess of nutrients does not always lead to the desired result, for example, due to excess calcium in orchids, the ends of the leaves may turn yellow.
Lack of nutrition is not good either. The orchid most often suffers from a low amount of potassium - in this case, it gradually turns yellow top part sheet, then its inner part is affected. Orchid feed should contain phosphorus, nitrogen and potassium.
It is necessary to select fertilizer so that it meets the needs of the crop. It is better to consult a specialist or choose a specialized feeding for orchids.
Flower pests
When damaged by pests, the plant also begins to turn yellow. Most often, orchids are affected spider mite... They fight him by washing the flower with warm (40-45 degrees) water. After that, the plant is covered with a simple bag for three days. Before treatment, the affected plant is quarantined.
Timely inspection of the plant can prevent the development of pests that suck the juices from the plant, after which it weakens, withers and turns yellow.
Attention, only TODAY!
Orchids are quite common indoor flower among amateur flower growers, he is wonderful decoration at home. The flower fascinates with its beauty, surprises with the variety of its forms and colors. Indoor orchid is a plant with a rather thin stem, on top of which there is a luxurious flower.
Orchid variety
There are in nature about 30 thousand varieties of orchids, and at home you can grow only a few flowering species.
- Phalaenopsis is the most popular species among flower growers because of its unpretentious care. The flower petals of this orchid are very similar to the wings of a butterfly.
- Dracula is a rather gloomy, but in its own way attractive type of orchid.
- Paphiopedilum - its flowers resemble a shoe, flower growers appreciate it for its long flowering, reaching 2 months.
- Aganizia - This houseplant is very light-requiring and does not tolerate drought. It is popular because of the volumetric inflorescence (up to 5 large flowers).
- Wanda - this type of orchid grows up to 80 cm in height, etc.
At home, a florist needs take good care of the room beauty, otherwise this exotic capriciousness begins to hurt and her leaves turn yellow. Many caring housewives of a room orchid are worried about why this happens, but there are many reasons.
Why do orchid leaves turn yellow?
It is enough to know all the reasons why the leaves turn yellow in order to prevent the death of your favorite plant.
The main causes of yellowing orchid leaves:
- natural yellowing;
- lack of light;
- plant burn;
- lack of light for the orchid;
- lack or oversupply.
Orchid leaves turn yellow, what should I do?
First of all, the plant begins to turn yellow due to the natural shedding of leaves. If one leaf has turned yellow or dried, and the rest are in the same state, then, as a rule, you should not worry, this means that the life cycle of this leaf has simply ended and a new one will soon form in its place.
If the sheet home flower begins to turn yellow from the tip, and not from the base, as it happens under normal conditions, which means that there is not enough light for it. It is necessary to immediately solve this problem and rearrange the orchid to another window, where the lighting is stronger or additionally illuminated fluorescent lamp... If this is not done, then the stem will also begin to darken, and the plant may die.
When spots appear on the leaves, this is a sure sign that the indoor the orchid got burned... He could appear on home plant from direct impact rays of the sun, from water drops remaining on the plant after moistening (under the rays of the sun, they "worked" as lenses), even from a lamp daylight if it is low enough. The main thing is not to confuse burns with a fungus that grows throughout the leaf and begins to infect the orchid. With proper treatment, it can be saved.
If the leaves begin to turn yellow and become lethargic, then home the orchid lacks lighting... She is very thermophilic and loves bright light, but it must be diffused so as not to ruin the exotic beauty. To organize sufficient lighting when purchasing an orchid in a specialized store, it is imperative to clarify which type it belongs to - shade-tolerant or photophilous.
Also, the reason for the yellowing of the leaves of a flower may be a lack or an excess of nutrition. Perhaps the plant lacks potassium or iron, with a lack of them, the leaves turn pale and at the end they die off.
Optional houseplant fertilized only during the growth period, as a rule, once every 3 weeks, purchasing specialized fertilizers for this, such as "Bona Forte". It is important to feed the plant only with specialized fertilizers, feeding for others indoor plants cannot be used. When transplanting a plant into a specialized mixture, as a rule, this is done once every 2 years; it is not required to fertilize the flower for the first time, because it will receive all the nutrients from the substrate.
Harbingers of yellowing orchid leaves
If there is roughness on the leaves, destruction of the leaf tissue occurs, then you need to know that this is a harbinger - they will soon turn yellow. You need to eliminate the cause before the leaves have turned yellow yet. This requires:
Infectious diseases in orchids
Particular attention should be paid to yellowing of the leaves due to infectious diseases. Unfortunately, quite often the orchid in the store is already amazed, so you need to carefully examine the plant before buying.
Infectious diseases:
- Fungal
- Viral
- Bacterial
Signs of viral diseases are the appearance in the leaves of a flower of light rings, ovals, yellow spots and stripes.
A virus in a home orchid can live long enough long time, while not showing themselves in any way. But stress (if you create unfavorable conditions) can provoke a virus and, unfortunately, it will gradually infect the plant until it is completely destroyed.
Bacterial diseases are not dangerous, but they can not always be completely cured. They manifest themselves as dark brown, black spots with a yellow rim. For treatment, it is necessary to isolate the orchid from other plants and cut out spots, treating wounds with activated carbon (if the disease is severely neglected, then the use of bactericides is necessary). With proper treatment and if no new spots appear after two weeks, the orchid becomes cured.
At bacterial rot wet, dark yellow, brown spots can be seen on the leaves of a house flower. It is impossible to delay with treatment when such spots appear, if you start it, then the plant can no longer be saved. The spots begin to actively grow and turn black. If bacterial rot is detected, it is necessary to treat the place where the indoor flower stood (for example, a windowsill and a window) with hydrogen peroxide. A diseased indoor flower should be kept isolated from other plants until complete recovery.
Fungal diseases received the greatest distribution among orchids, as they arise from the lack of proper care for it. They manifest themselves in different ways, including the appearance of dark yellow spots on the leaves. Some types of fungal diseases are easily confused with burns. Treatment for the fungus involves removing the damaged areas of the leaves, treating the cuts, and then, after the wounds have healed, the plant must be treated with a fungicide.
As it turned out, the causes of yellowing of leaves in indoor orchids very varied. If you follow the basic rules that this home beauty in care, you can avoid damage to the leaves. But if this did happen, then by providing more careful supervision of the adorable orchid, the problem will disappear. In addition to leaving, you need to carefully consider the plant before buying and purchase it, preferably from trusted sellers of indoor flowers, because there is a very high probability buy an already infected flower, which will delight you with its beauty for a short time.
They are distinguished by a developed genetic memory and, despite the fact that they have been cultivated in home floriculture for a long time, they are characterized by high demands on care and conditions. environment... Any disturbance in the cultivation process immediately affects appearance tropical plant... The most common symptom is yellowing of the leaves, which can have a variety of causes.
A characteristic sign that the orchid lacks lighting is the acquisition of a light green color by the leaves, gradually turning into yellow... This can be judged by the elongation of the leaves.
Changing the location will help to fix this, orchids are most comfortable on the windowsills of windows with an east and west direction. In winter, the duration of daylight hours should be increased by 4-5 hours, additionally illuminating with fluorescent lamps.
There are cases when the orchid fully develops with minimal illumination for 1-2 years, and after this period it turns yellow sharply and sheds its leaves. Therefore, from the very first day of cultivation, you need to take care of correct location plants. Nordic windows, on which the minimum amount of sunlight falls, is strongly discouraged.
Direct sunlight is also detrimental to the plant, from which burns are formed on the leaves. Small spots do not pose a threat to the health of the orchid, if injured large area the plant may die. Therefore, it is necessary to shade the glasses during the period of activity of the sun, and the plants on the southern windowsills should be covered constantly.
It is not necessary to cover all the window glass, it is enough to cover the area at the level with the orchid with tracing paper or tissue paper.
Improper watering
The most common reason for yellowing orchid leaves is due to watering and water quality.
Overflow
The condition of the plant's roots is immediately reflected in the appearance of the leaves. Constant overflow or stagnation of water in the pot leads to root rot. orchids lose their turgor, turn yellow and become stained. In this case, you need to transplant the plant, after removing all damaged areas of the roots.
Orchids are planted in transparent plastic pots, which make it possible to constantly monitor the condition of the roots. Spacious holes at the bottom of the pot are required, the incoming water should immediately pour out of the container.
Overdrying
In some cases, yellowing of the lower leaves is observed even with a healthy root system. So the orchid signals a lack of water and drying out of the substrate. With a deficiency of nutrients, the plant begins to take them from the lower leaves, which eventually fall off.
In both cases, you need to adjust the irrigation regime. General recommendations for irrigation: in summer period 2 times a week, once during the winter season. Control over the sump is also mandatory; water should not accumulate there.
Hard water
Watering the plant with hard water leads to gradual salinization of the substrate. The absorption of iron is impaired and functional chlorosis develops. Typical signs of such a violation is the formation of yellow spots, which gradually cover all leaves.
In this case, only transplanting the plant into a new substrate can help, during which you need to rinse the roots. Additionally, after transplantation, foliar feeding, plant leaves are spilled with liquid fertilizers:
- Bona Forte;
- Green World;
- "Pokon".
If the problem is observed during the period of active flowering of the orchid, they are limited only to watering the substrate with distilled water diluted with tap water 1: 1 without replanting the plant.
A few months after such resuscitation, the damaged leaves will fall off, and new shoots will form in their place.
Irregularities during orchid fertilization
Yellowing of orchid leaves can be from excess, lack of potassium and excess calcium.
An excess of minerals and growth stimulants
The problem can also manifest itself with careful observance of all norms of frequency and dosage of fertilizer. During this period, there is a sudden yellowing and massive leaf fall. In some cases, the plant may die within 2-3 days.
The reason lies in the overfeeding of the plant in the early years of development, which is sometimes abused by sellers to maintain the presentation of the orchid. Such a plant can develop well within 2-3 years at the expense of internal resources, and after complete depletion, die. First of all, you need to provide the orchid with warmth and light.
In the first two weeks, all feeding is stopped, after this time, fertilization is resumed.
Conidia penetrate into the main vessels of the orchid and disrupt the microcirculation of substances in the tissues of the plant. The leaves lose their elasticity, become covered with dark spots and turn yellow. The main causes of Fusarium disease are:
- salinization of the substrate;
- no drying out of the substrate;
- high peat content;
- constant hypothermia of the roots.
The spread of the fungus is slow; from the beginning of infection and mass death of the roots, it can take from 8 to 18 months.
Therefore, you need to regularly inspect all the roots and leaves of the orchid. If reddened areas with traces of indentation appear, you can start treating the plant. It is necessary to get rid of the affected areas and treat the plant with fungicidal preparations. To do this, you can use:
- "Vitaros",
- Fundazol,
- Fitolavin.
After that, the orchid must be planted in a new substrate and the leaves must be re-treated with a fungicide.
The prognosis of the disease is not very favorable. Treatment may take a long time and may not produce the desired results. If after the first treatment with fungicides the plant has not returned to normal, then experts recommend getting rid of the orchid. In practice, there are many cases of general infection of neighboring plants.
Bacterial spot
The infectious disease manifests itself only on the aerial part of the orchid, on pseudobulbs and leaves.
A characteristic sign of the lesion is dark depressed spots with a yellow rim spreading along the perimeter.
The bacterium enters the plant cells through microtrauma or open stomata and immediately begins to actively multiply. Therefore, very often on a completely healthy orchid in the evening in the morning, you can observe the appearance of ugly lesions. Most often, spots can be observed at the tips of the leaves and in the area of the lobar vein.
Bacteria enter the orchid organism with irrigation water and insects sucking sap, through the infected substrate and the affected plant. Despite its active development, bacterial spotting is easy to treat.
The first step is to isolate the diseased orchid. It is necessary to cut out the damaged area and process the sections with cinnamon or activated carbon. If no new spots are formed within 10 days, the plant can be taken to a permanent place.
Pests
Another reason that leads to yellowing of orchid leaves is the results of the activities of some. As a rule, getting rid of them at home is not difficult.
Whitefly
You can detect the pest by examining the lower part of the leaves, where the whitefly lays numerous watery eggs. Adults often hide between the leaves, and if the orchid is slightly shaken, they will fly out.
Stages of destruction of the pest:
- rinsing the leaves of the plant with a solution from laundry soap and water 1: 6;
- treatment of the substrate and orchids with the Actellik insectoacaricide;
- repeated spraying with "Aktellik" after 7 days;
- preventive washing of the substrate and leaves every 5 days under running water.
Root mite
A very small insect measuring only 1 mm in length. Therefore, it is very difficult to see them with the naked eye. The color can be light yellow or reddish brown. They settle mainly only on the old substrate, which is compacted and does not allow air to pass through.
The mites feed on the roots of the orchid, leaving grooves in them that contain brown dust. Some pest species climb out and feed on the base of the leaves, pseudobulb, and stem. This can be seen from the shallow depressions that darken over time.
As a result vigorous activity the whole is badly damaged root system and ceases to provide the necessary nutrition. The plant weakens, and the leaves turn yellow en masse.
The orchid affected by the pest must be removed from the substrate and the roots rinsed with + 35 ° C water, such a temperature is destructive for the pests. It is important to remove all pieces of bark from the old substrate, there is a risk of transferring the tick itself or its eggs to a new place of residence on the remaining fragments.
All damaged roots are removed, and the cut sites are treated with cinnamon powder or activated carbon. After that, you need to leave the plant for 7-8 hours, during which time it will dry out, and the places of the cuts will tighten.
After that, the roots of the orchid are treated with acaricide. Recommended drugs:
- "Karbofos";
- Phosphamide;
- Apollo.
It is necessary to dilute the drug in a suitable container, applying half of the dose indicated in the instructions. It is necessary to soak the roots of the orchid in the solution for 30 minutes. After that healthy orchid can be planted in a new substrate.
Other factors for yellowing orchid leaves
There are a number of other reasons that can provoke yellowing of plant leaves. After a thorough check for damage by pests and diseases, violations in the conditions of detention, you should pay attention to them.
Age
Each type of orchid has a certain life cycle, periodic yellowing and death of leaves is a natural process. Do not worry when the bottom leaf of an adult plant turns yellow 1-2 times a year. Thus, the plant is constantly rejuvenating, a new one will necessarily grow in place of a dead leaf.
Narrow pot
According to the rules, the orchid needs to be replanted every 2 years. During this time, the root system outgrows the size of the pot. If you keep it longer, then the roots are deformed, the substrate becomes denser, and the plant ceases to receive the necessary nutrition. This instantly affects the color of the leaves, which gradually acquire a yellow tint.
It is important to take care of the comfort of the plant and transplant it into a new container, which should be 2-3 cm larger than the previous one in diameter. It is not recommended to plant in a wider pot, in which the substrate will dry out longer, and the roots of the orchid will constantly be in a humid environment.