How to make an arched door from wood. DIY arched door: making

I think there is no point in building carpentry workbench for the manufacture of 2-3 doors. Therefore, we will make the lining from four boards intersected at an angle of 90°. Wooden bosses are sewn onto the ends of the boards. The door frame is wedged towards them. The wedges provide sufficient compression force when gluing.
We will do all the preparation, marking, and trimming of the bars for the doors on the same door that was used for glazing.
Standard dimensions of the box bar: 80 mm - width, 50-40 mm - thickness. It is necessary to prepare bars of the required length, and the transverse dimensions of the bar should be slightly larger than necessary. By pounding the bars, you will achieve the right size. Now you need to remove a quarter from the block to provide a door ledge.
A quarter of the flat bars are removed using a hand-held circular saw (Fig. 32).

The quarter is first marked with a pencil. Then adjust the saw to the desired cutting depth and cut along the line, not reaching it 1-2 mm from the inside.
After making both cuts, the quarter is removed. And the resulting groove is planed to the line with a zenzubel plane.
At worst, a quarter can be completely planed using a piece of iron taken from a plane, or simply with an ax. An ax is a universal tool. You just need to know how to use it, as our ancestors knew how to do.
Well, okay, everything is clear with straight bars, but what about the arched part? The arch is made of two or three elements depending on the curvature. The easiest way to prepare it is this: on any flat sheet (chipboard, fiberboard, plywood) draw the required curve. Then, along this curve, lay out three bars (or two) with an overlap of 4-5 cm over each other (per tenon). And repeat the curve along the bars. Now process it with a hatchet and jointer. A quarter is selected with a chisel.
All connections in the box are made using a simple single tenon (Fig. 33).

When cutting out a tenon joint, you need to remember that the hacksaw also has its own thickness. If you cut exactly along the line, the connection will end up with a gap. Therefore, when making a tenon, you need to cut along the lines with outside. And when cutting out a groove for a tenon - along the lines on the inside. The cut groove is selected using a chisel.
When making a tenon, do not chop off excess wood. Only a very experienced carpenter can chip, who can see in the direction of the wood grain how the chip will occur.
You need to mark the tenon joint using a meter and a square. The tenon joint is assembled by lightly tapping it with a mallet using wood glue. Then a hole is drilled and hammered wooden dowel also on glue. When making a box from soft wood(spruce, pine) dowel must be made of hard wood (birch, oak, etc.). And vice versa.
Wood glue is prepared as follows: glue tiles are poured cold water(so that the water covers the glue) and leave to soak for a day. Then the glue is boiled in a water bath. On open fire You can’t - it burns.
If it is difficult to draw a curve, place a sheet of cardboard or fiberboard against the finished opening (for which you are preparing the door) and draw along it.
When the box is ready, it needs to be placed in a clamp, the diagonals measured (and, if necessary, corrected) and wedged.
For interior doors, the bottom bar is not installed. In this case, the frame is simply temporarily stitched downwards with whatever is available.
Now let's prepare the canvas. It is easier to produce it the way it is done at woodworking plants. We prepare a second frame exactly the same, only without quarters and smaller in size. Such that it fits into the box with a gap of 2 mm. The gap is needed so that the door does not catch on the frame when opening. Using this frame we make two panels from fiberboard or thin plywood and glue it to the frame on both sides. The middle can be filled with anything: rolled newspapers, cardboard or wooden blocks required thickness. You can place the bars as you like: lengthwise, across, even diagonally. If the lock will crash into the door, then one of the outer bars of the frame must be of the appropriate width. You also need to place a block in the place of future fastening door handle.
At woodworking plants door leaf After gluing, the fiberboard is placed under a press. At home, the press can be replaced with clamps (Fig. 34) or simply nail the sheets to the frame in addition to pasting. Sink the caps and then putty them. A thickness of 3 mm plywood is enough to submerge the nail slightly.

If you want, you can imitate a paneled door by sewing or gluing the corresponding strips, or create your own unique pattern.
What is good about a smooth door? It can be painted. There was a girl who studied with me at the institute. She painted all the doors in the apartment with biblical themes. And how great she did it. Don't you know how to draw? I will help you. Take a picture you like (preferably not very complex), draw a grid on it with a pencil and a ruler, for example with 1x1 cm cells. Now the same grid, but on a scale (for example 1:10, i.e. a 10x10 cm grid) - on the door or wherever you want. And gradually transfer the drawing square by square. First in pencil, then, after erasing the excess, in paint.
If you decide to draw, then try to maintain the style. So that any original witch you choose matches the rest of the interior.
When using plywood as a sheathing, the frame of the door leaf does not have to be knitted into a tenon, it can be made into half a tree. Plywood is a fairly rigid material.

It is not always necessary to separate rooms with closing doors; sometimes it is much preferable and more beautiful to have an open opening in which a spectacular door arch with your own hands.

Beautiful arch with your own hands

A passage from a corridor to a living room or from a library to an office can look much more original than an ordinary one. door leaf, hung on metal hinges that regularly require lubrication to prevent squeaking. In particular, the opening can be left completely open, which will provide convenience, due to the absence of obstacles, and add aesthetic completeness to any design. Proponents of monumentality usually choose brick for the construction of an arch, since it can be used to decorate the opening with a hint of the Middle Ages, with a keystone and other related touches.

However, more practical people prefer simplicity and efficiency, preferring chipboard and drywall. It is precisely from the latter that an arch can be made with your own hands the fastest, and this master class will tell you how. First you need to decide what type of arch you want to see in interior wall(this can be not only a door, windows can also be made in the same style). There are 4 main options: classic, modern, ellipse and portal.

The first type includes arches, the upper curved part of which is a regular semicircle. The second type in its upper part looks like a small segment of a semicircle, the radius of which is significantly greater than half the width of the opening. The ellipsoidal version does not require any additional comments; it is shaped like an egg. And the portal is an ordinary opening, only slightly larger than the standard size and ennobled with decorative platbands. However, we will consider the usual classic type.

How to make an arch with your own hands - practical instructions

The most common and easily processed material today is plasterboard, and it is from this that we will construct the arched structure. It is most convenient to do this in the gap between two walls, where the opening is completely absent, that is, the entire clearance from floor to ceiling is available. As a last resort, before making an arch in the wall with your own hands, in a house or apartment you can hollow out the wall above the opening, at the same time expanding it as much as possible. The thing is that we need space for mounting aluminum profiles. Having determined the scope of work, we make an arch with our own hands in order to improve the passage between the rooms.

Master class arch with your own hands - step-by-step diagram

Step 1: Marking

We measure on inside The distance from both edges of the opening is equal to the thickness; we place marks near the ceiling and near the floor.

Using a plumb line and coated thread, we beat off the lines between the markers. We perform the same operation on the ceiling and floor. If the arch is located in the corner of the room, and one side of it is a transverse wall, transfer markings to it indicating the thickness of the plasterboard sheet.

Step 2: Mounting the Guides

We fasten it with self-tapping screws along the lines made with an indent under the casing. aluminum profiles on the walls and ceiling, leaving a gap for wiring if necessary.

During installation, the previously made markings must remain with outside from each of the two rows of guides. The vertical parts must be duplicated; you will need “copies” later.

Step 3: Determining the Width of the Arch

On the floor we measure the required distance from the wall opposite vertical profiles and put marks along which we then draw a transverse line. We carry out this operation on both sides of the opening. Next, according to the markings, we screw short sections of the profile onto the floor, the length of which should correspond to the distance between the lines along which the vertical guides are screwed.

Step 4: Installation of the frame profile

Into the scraps fixed on the floor we insert prepared parts identical to the guides mounted on the wall earlier.

The only difference is the position; we rotate the frame metal profiles 90 degrees, with the mounting surfaces facing the rooms. We secure each with two screws.

At the top we fix it to a horizontal guide screwed to the ceiling.

Be sure to use a plumb line and level so that every part of the frame is level.

Step 5: Sheathing One Side

On top of the resulting structure we attach drywall, cut to size, with self-tapping screws; vertical strips are mounted on the sides, for which waste can be used. If there is a shortage of material for the upper part, you can use a narrow fragment under the ceiling or directly above the opening.

Step 6: Making a compass from improvised materials

You most likely do not have at hand (and are unable to get) a teacher’s compass, which is usually used in geometry lessons for drawing circles with chalk on the blackboard. Therefore, we suggest making this tool yourself just for our case.

We measure half the width of the opening (put a marker on the edge of the drywall) and get the radius of the future arched arc. Now we take a slightly longer rail and screw in a self-tapping screw at one end, a centimeter from the edge. We screw in the second identical screw exactly at the previously measured distance, determining its position using a construction tape.

Step 7: Marking the Arch

If you have placed a marker, measuring half the width of the span, you can immediately proceed to drawing the arch line, otherwise, apply the tape measure again and find the desired point. We stick one self-tapping screw of our compass a centimeter higher from the edge, and with the second we draw an arc from the upper corners of the portal.

Step 8: Forming the Arch

Using a hacksaw (manual or electric), we cut out the drywall along the line and get an arched passage.

All that remains is to strengthen it, for which we measure the length of the arc using a sawn-off fragment using a construction tape and take a profile of identical size (to speed up the process - a pair). Every 5 centimeters we make cuts in the guides and carefully bend one of the parts along our arch, sequentially screwing it with screws.

TO ceiling profiles We fasten the curved part with two guides of the appropriate length.

We attach strips of drywall to the sides

We wet another fragment, cut along the length of the arc, generously and treat it with a needle roller on both sides.

We pause for a few minutes so that the material is slightly saturated with moisture. Then we install the previously cut one vertically, put a strip on it, and it slowly bends under its own weight.

When the process stops, we carefully help by lightly pressing the ends, after which we let the material dry a little and screw it onto the bend of the arch.

In no case should drywall be allowed to become too wet, as there is a high probability of internal or external defects.

Do-it-yourself arch installation - original solutions

A less common type is the semi-arch, when half of the arc in the highest part rests against the wall. It can be either classical or elliptical, or completely irregular shape. There is a variant called "romance", these arches resemble portals, but have rounded upper corners. Also, those who want something original install trapezoidal arches between the rooms, top part which has the shape of a corresponding geometric figure.

And finally, a rather curious variant of the eastern arch is quite rare, when the upper part of the opening sharply expands into a horizontally oriented oval or ellipse. Installing an arch with your own hands is possible, no matter which option you choose, although the classic one is the most easily accomplished. However, upon completion of the installation of the structure, you can continue working, this time in the direction of design.

For finishing arched openings today there are many ready-made solutions, for example, wooden or plaster platbands, semi-columns for the sides of the opening. You can decorate with tiles, artificial or natural stone(if the structure is made of plasterboard, it is advisable not to overuse the cladding to avoid deformation). You can also mount on the inside of the arch small shelves for flower pots or figurines.

Transformation of the interior of the premises is done different ways. One of them is replacing the door with an arch. There are several technologies for its arrangement, but if you look at it in detail, almost all of them are similar and quite feasible. on our own. Moreover, you can install both purchased elements of the “vault” and those made independently.

Preparatory activities

Choosing an arch type

Experts recommend focusing on the ceiling height and the general style of decoration of the room. There are several options for arched structures, but most of them reduce the opening due to installation load-bearing frame approximately 150 - 200 mm.

• With low ceilings, it is hardly worth getting rid of interior doors. At the very least, you should think carefully. The only possible option for finishing the opening after their dismantling is plastering followed by pasting (wallpaper, fabric) to match the walls. Building an arch using this method is quite simple; it is only necessary to correctly process the end parts of the passage. But this room design option has a significant drawback, and therefore does not suit everyone - the lack of sheathing makes it impossible to install hidden spotlights in the opening.
• In some articles on the topic of making an arch, there are recommendations for giving the desired geometry to the passage between rooms using cellular blocks, bricks or concreting. Not to mention the complexity of such work, it is worth considering additional load to the ceiling. And since you will also have to deal with the solution, it is not the best option for an apartment.

But if the decision is made, then you should take into account the features of the interior of the home. This will help to correctly determine the optimal type of arch.

• Classical. The upper part is an arc with a constant radius (semicircle). It is relatively easy to make, since it has the correct geometry. But it is advisable to install it only in openings between rooms with high ceilings.
• “Modern”, “Romatica” are well suited for multi-storey buildings. The latter type of arches has a large width, and therefore are recommended for installation in the opening leading from the hall to the hallway.
• "Portal". The fundamental difference from others is that this is a rectangular arch. It is advisable to install it in private buildings. When applied to an apartment, it looks great, but only if straight lines predominate in the design style of the room. A significant advantage of this design is that it can be installed without much difficulty, even if you have no skills.
• "Ellipse" and "Trapezoid" have more original form. Deciding how to make an arch in doorway according to one of these schemes, it is worth considering that the correctness of the geometry largely depends on the accuracy of calculations of the parameters of all elements and radii (angles).

There are other options for designing openings: Venetian, Florentine, with “shoulders” and a number of others. But build interior arch any of these varieties is so complex that for self-installation There is no point in choosing them.

Selection of materials

• Frame. There are only two options here - wooden slats and metal profile. It is more difficult to work with the former, especially if the vault has a geometry with changing parameters. Bending wood is not only a complex process, but also a long one. In addition, wood absorbs moisture well, is susceptible to drying out, and therefore deformation cannot be avoided. In this regard, a door arch assembled on a metal frame is more durable and reliable.

• Facing. Panels made of plastic or chipboard with lamination look great, and they do not require further finishing. The downside is that it is difficult to choose their shade for a specific interior; besides, such an arch will be more expensive. It is better to use elements from fiberboard, multilayer plywood(small thickness) or gypsum board. Work with data sheet materials(cutting, bending) is much easier. Plus, the finishing design can be done in any way you wish.

• You must have experience working with wood. It is difficult to bend and, in some cases, to process. For example, sampling of grooves, quarters without special tool and no adaptations are made.
• The lumber still needs to be selected correctly. First of all, by breed. Each one is different characteristic features, and use largely depends on the specifics of the room in terms of microclimate.

Operating procedure

1. Dismantling door frame. The opening must be completely cleaned; not only from the frame with the sash, but also from sealing/insulating materials.

1. Marking. One nuance should be noted on this point; The ends of the wall must be strong. And therefore, if she separate area does not meet this requirement, you will have to think about either strengthening it (for example, with a corner), or additionally removing part of the material and then leveling it. But in the latter case, the size of the opening will increase. This is typical for houses made of wood if it is discovered that rot has developed on the timber (log).

• Dimensions should be taken at several levels. Even if the distortion is visually unnoticeable, difficulties may arise when installing the door arch with your own hands.
• There are many discrepancies in the question of what to do first - draw up a drawing of the arch or determine the dimensions of the opening. Here it is worth focusing on local specifics. If the wall material is easy to process, then widening the opening is not difficult. Otherwise, the design parameters will have to be “adjusted” to it.

1. Attaching the supporting frame. It is installed in several stages.

• Arrangement of the main circuit. In accordance with the drawing, all external vertical installation slats are “fastened” to the wall.
• Fastening the "vault". Additionally, the upper part of the arch is fixed with hangers, which are located symmetrically across the entire width of the opening.

• Strengthening the frame. For this purpose they are used cross members, installed along the arch along its entire profile. Approximately - 50±10 cm from each other. For gypsum boards, the maximum is sufficient (about 55 - 60), but if the cladding is done with boards, then the interval should be reduced to 45 - 50.

• Sealing gaps. In fact, this is one of the ways to insulate an opening. Depending on the material of the wall and frame, the appropriate product is selected - a solution, polyurethane foam, putty or other.

1. Wiring. As a rule, all arched openings are illuminated. Therefore, the lines are installed before finishing the frame begins.

1. Cladding of the structure. The specifics of fixing the cladding elements depend on their material. But they are attached to the metal profile slats with self-tapping screws; the simplest and convenient way. You just need to mark the location of the holes and drill channels for the hardware.

1. Finishing the arch

• Applying putty. This is necessary to smooth out roughness.
• Primer treatment. Such products simultaneously increase the moisture-repellent properties of the base and the adhesion of the material.
• Strengthening the finish (if necessary). The edges of the gypsum board are reinforced with a small corner (made of plastic, with perforation), the surface itself is reinforced with a reinforcing mesh, which is glued.
• Re-application of putty composition and primer.
• Grinding.
• Finish coating. Possible options– paints and varnishes, decorative films, veneer, wallpaper, stucco, mirrors. There are no stereotypes - your own imagination will tell you what look to give to the opening.

In principle, the process of installing and finishing the arch does not present any difficulties for a business man. And if you take into account in advance such a point as the maintainability of the structure, then they will not arise in the future.

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How to make it yourself

The manufacturing rules are not much different from a similar procedure with traditional door leaves, but there are some peculiarities.

1. First of all, an arch template is cut out, usually from fiberboard.
2. The canvas is assembled rectangular shape taking into account that the upper cut will not bear the force load.
3. The upper part is cut according to a template with allowance for further processing.
4. The outer side of the rounding is carefully adjusted to the shape of the template, maintaining the perpendicularity of the end part. It is more convenient to edit the outer edge with a milling cutter. If there is no access to the machine, this can be done using a belt sander.
5. The arched top of the box is made along the contour of the canvas. The arc can be bent according to a template or a set of several bars connected with spikes can be made. The vestibule is selected using a milling cutter.
6. The upper loop is installed as close as possible to the beginning of the rounding.
7. The fittings are attached in the same way as on a rectangular door.

Tools:

• assembly table with clamps;
• manual Circular Saw with the possibility of milling;
• surface planer, planer, jointer;
• electric jigsaw;
• drill;
• Sander.

Bivalve swing doors are made according to the same principle. First, rectangular panels, then general marking of the arched curve according to the template, and after that - the door frame.

More complex designs

Arches cannot be made according to a traditional design, since they do not have a top side to accommodate the sliding mechanism. Manufacturers made some tricks in the design.

1. Single leaf. Arched shape Only stored on the door handle side. The opposite part of the door is rectangular in shape with a mechanism installed on it. When the door is completely closed, you cannot see what kind of bend it has, since it is hidden by the opening. When opening, only the part on which the handle and lock are installed is visible.
2. . Both halves are made in a rectangular shape. The pattern or windows on the canvases follow the curve of the arch, and closed doors look like a repetition of the arched opening.

This option is suitable if the mechanism for hanging sliding doors is hidden in the wall. If the canvases are hung on one side of the wall - both halves sliding doors rectangular. The design is made in such a way that on one side the doors look arched, repeating the curve of the opening. On the opposite side there are ordinary rectangular sliding panels.

The topic of this article is the manufacture of arched doors, their installation and the intricacies of these processes. We will talk about the types of doors with arches, note their varieties and the features of each type. We will also give recommendations on self-production entrance door in the form of an arch made of solid wood.

Today arched openings various forms and styles are used in the construction and decoration of most premises. They are used as entrance and interior doors.

Types of arched openings

Of all the diversity doorways in the form of arches, the following classification can be made:

• Semicircular arches. They are the most common and are also divided into subtypes:
  • Classic (semicircular) - they have a smooth radial shape.
  • Ellipsoidal - made in the shape of an elongated oval.
  • Modern - have intricate shapes with various protrusions.
  • Romantic - shaped more like a rectangle, with the upper edges slightly rounded.
• Horseshoe arches. They are shaped like a horseshoe. They can have not only a smooth semicircle, but also an elongated, pointed top. Most often, openings of this type are used to decorate premises in national styles.
• Gothic (pointed) arches. These structures have an elongated, pointed shape, without smooth transitions.

What types of arched doors are there?

Arched doors have many varieties and are classified according to various factors: installation location, material of manufacture, design features

Types of arched doors at installation site

There are two main categories here:

1. Interior doors arched - located inside residential and other types of premises. Most often they are made of wood and have glazing. Stained glass compositions are often used for glazing such structures.
2. Entrance doors in the form of arches - used mainly in entrance groups ah establishments: shops, organizations, shopping and entertainment centers. Made from plastic profile.

What are arched doors made of?

Due to the complexity of manufacturing this type of door leaf, the variety of material for their production is not very abundant:

1. Plastic. This material serves for the production of profiles, from which not only entrance doors, but also windows.
2. Solid wood. Wooden door leaves in the shape of arches are used for entrance areas in the private sector, as well as inside any type of premises.

Structural features of arched doors

Based on the operating characteristics, installation complexity and cost finished product The following arched door structures can be distinguished:

• Canvases that follow the same contours of the opening. The peculiarity of such doors is that their production takes a long time. They stand quite high. Such models are made of wood, as they are arched plastic doors made using a different technology.
• Standard canvases with an arched part fixed above them. Such doors are somewhat cheaper, since their arched part is mounted separately and does not open together with the door leaf. It also becomes possible to use not only swing doors, but also sliding options canvases

Important! The opening height for such doors should be large enough. It is calculated using the formula: Vpr = 210 cm + half the width of the opening.

• Single doors. They are usually used as interior spaces, as well as input options for private homes and public spaces.
• Double doors. For wide openings It is advisable to use two doors. One of them can be fixed in the opening using a latch. Relevant for entrance groups. In this case, more often than not, the “working” part of the door is 2 times wider than the fixed part.

Making an arched door yourself

Despite the difficulty of making such canvases, it is possible. Now you can see for yourself. We will learn how to make wooden arched entrance doors.

It is better to order the box part according to your dimensions, and we will make the canvas ourselves.

We prepare everything you need

First you need to prepare tools, boards and available materials. We will need:

• Jigsaw with wood saws.
• Electric milling machine with two types of cutters: disk (for grooves) and cylindrical.
• Sanding machine with sandpaper of different grain sizes. The best one is tape.
• Boards, 5 centimeters thick.
• Wooden wedges.
• Two small bars and 4 wood screws. The length of the screws should be 30mm greater than the thickness of the bars.
• Carpentry waterproof glue. PVA is possible.

Making a blank for the arched part of the canvas

To make the arched part of the door leaf, we first need to measure the final width of the opening. That is, from the total width we subtract the thickness of the “box” part and a 2mm gap between the door and the opening (frame).

After this we do the following work:

Important! Before making an arched door, you need to select well-dried boards. Since if they are damp, the canvas will warp over time.

• Now, using an electric router, we make grooves for a tighter connection. To do this, we take a disk-slot cutter. We make the grooves in such a way that the protruding part is about half the thickness of the board. That is, 2.5 millimeters. The same goes for the internal groove.
• Next, we clean the entire surface of the grooves from dust and apply wood glue to them. After this, we connect all the boards and leave them to dry.

Important! In order for gluing to occur better, you need to take a board and attach pre-prepared bars to it with self-tapping screws. The distance between the bars should be 10–20 mm greater than the width of the glued workpiece. Place the workpiece between the bars and spread it apart with wedges.

Cut out a semicircle from the blank

For this operation, we recall the experience of installing plasterboard arches. We use one of two options to outline the arched shape:

1. If the arch has an even semicircle. Mark the middle at the bottom of the workpiece. Then we take a pencil and tie a non-stringent thread to it. Cut the thread exactly to the length of the arch radius. Apply one end of the thread to the mark and draw a semicircle with a pencil.
2. If the shape of the arch (as in the photo) has an elongated semicircular or pointed shape, then we use a different method. To outline the boundaries of the bend contour it is very convenient to use a long metal ruler. We also make a mark in the middle and draw a line from it strictly vertically to the length of the radius of the arch. Next, we place the ruler on the edge and bend it so that one edge touches the radius mark, and the other coincides with the edge of the workpiece. After this, draw a line with a pencil. On the second side we follow the same steps.

Important! Make sure you get a symmetrical arched neckline.

Next, take a jigsaw and carefully cut the workpiece according to the markings. After that we take grinder with the coarsest sandpaper and process the surface of our arched part of the door on both sides. After this, we repeat grinding with a finer abrasive.

Now the most beautiful part of our door is ready. Arched interior doors can be decorated with the same elements. However, it is worth considering that for interior spaces glazed arches will be more elegant. And their manufacture requires carpentry skills.

Finishing the door leaf

Now we have to make the rest of the door. It will be assembled according to the same principle as the previous part. The only difference will be that the boards will not be positioned horizontally, but vertically.

It should also be provided at the very bottom of the canvas horizontal part. This will help extend the life of the door.

As a result, our door leaf will consist of 3 parts:

1. Horizontal bottom cross member.
2. Shield made of vertical boards.
3. Upper cross member. It is also the arched part.

After all 3 parts of the door are ready, we connect them using the tenon method. To do this, we use a milling cutter to perform the appropriate operations and place all 3 parts on glue. Don't forget to support the canvas with wedges.

The final stage is processing the entire surface of the door protective agent And finishing coat. Pinotex or any other wood protection is suitable for this.

If the door will always be on the sunny side, it is not recommended to cover it with laminating coatings. In this case, it is better to use ordinary colorless varnish for exterior use.