In panel houses for summer residence, the “lightest” design, timber with a cross section of 10x10 cm is used for the load-bearing frame of the walls. If polystyrene foam is used as a filler for the cavities, then you don’t have to worry about additional thermal insulation - EPS with a thickness of 10 cm is similar in thermal conductivity gas silicate block D500-D600 width 375-400 mm. The question is how to insulate panel house for winter living arises only if mineral wool is laid inside the wall - such a thickness is not enough for Russian frosts. Even for frame walls made of 150x100 timber with mineral wool inside will require additional insulation. But in addition to the walls, there is also a floor, ceiling and attic, which also cannot be ignored if the house is transferred to year-round living.
This is what the internal insulation of frame-panel walls looks like
How to insulate the outside walls of a panel house
A panel house on a wooden frame is not a log house made of logs or timber. In this case, there is no need to talk about the breathing properties (gas permeability) of the walls. Firstly, a continuous layer of vapor barrier is laid on the inside. Secondly, the vapor permeability of plywood or OSB boards with which the frame is sheathed is very low. Therefore, for external insulation you can use those materials that are not used for wooden houses:
expanded polystyrene;
EPPS (extruded polystyrene foam);
sprayed thermal insulation based on two-component or one-component polyurethane foam.
Video description
We will dwell in more detail on insulating a house with polystyrene foam. Find out how safe polystyrene foam is in our video:
But most often they choose mineral wool. And to be more precise - stone (basalt) wool. And although the thermal conductivity of stone wool is approximately one and a half times higher than that of foam plastics (it is just as worse thermal insulation properties), it belongs to non-flammable substances - to the NG group. Of course, for low-rise single-apartment buildings (up to two floors inclusive) the requirements for fire danger and fire resistance is not required (clause 6.5.6 SP 2.13130), but if the frame house is insulated with non-combustible materials, then this will not be superfluous.
Mineral wool cannot be set on fire even with a gas burner flame.
It is easy to compensate for lower thermal insulation properties due to thickness. External insulation is not internal, and a few extra centimeters of insulation mean nothing. It is necessary to insulate with hard mats - roll materials V vertical structures Over time they “move out”. And you have to choose between a thickness of 5 cm and 10 cm. For middle zone In Russia, provided that mineral wool 10 cm thick is already laid inside the walls, an additional 5 cm of thermal insulation layer is sufficient. Plus the thickness of double-sided wall cladding, interior decoration and facade panels.
But if the budget allows, you can lay a layer 10 cm thick.
How to insulate walls outside
How to insulate a frame house for winter living:
from the surface of the external walls it is necessary remove “foreign” objects– ebbs, cornices, canopies, mounting brackets for lighting fixtures and attachments;
take off old finishing – dismantle the casing, clean the paintwork;
execute markings for sheathing, taking into account the width of the insulation mats;
handle All wooden elements lathing with antiseptic;
mount timber lathing with a height equal to the thickness of the insulation;
The vertical lathing for external insulation of the pediment and walls does not have to coincide with each other. The main thing is that the step matches the width of the mats
fix insulation between the sheathing;
lay in a continuous layer, with overlapping layers, super-diffusion waterproofing membrane, secure it to the sheathing;
fill counter-lattice beams, which should provide a ventilation gap and serve as a mounting point facade panels(the height of the beam must be at least 6 cm - this is minimum size ventilation gap);
sheathe the facade siding, block house or any other finishing materials for a ventilated facade.
Important! Even before insulation, it is necessary to replace the windows with a “winter” version. It is also necessary to insulate entrance group– arrange a small vestibule and install a second entrance door.
Additional insulation panel house can be carried out along a horizontal lathing, and the counter lath can be made vertical to create a ventilated gap and fasten the sheathing.
Video description
You can see how to create a counter-lattice and fasten the sheathing in the following video:
On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer house insulation services. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.
Base insulation
Full insulation of a panel house from the outside will require work on thermal insulation of the base for strip base or pick up for pile foundation.
Insulation of the base of a strip foundation
According to experts, a house through the foundation loses up to 10-15% of the total heat loss due to the fairly high thermal conductivity of reinforced concrete or building blocks (depending on what the base is made of). And this phenomenon must also be fought.
This is what the general diagram of heat loss through the enclosing surfaces looks like
In this case, it is better to choose EPS for insulation. It is difficult to protect mineral wool near the ground from moisture as part of a “wet” facade (especially a curtain wall). Extruded polystyrene foam has a very low water absorption coefficient, and can even successfully perform waterproofing functions.
How to insulate a panel house for winter living using “wet facade” technology:
prepare plinth surface– clean from dirt, level it if necessary cement mortar, treated with concrete primer deep penetration;
fasten on the adhesive solution of the slab, additionally fixed with mechanical fasteners;
apply a layer adhesive solution, reinforced with mesh, pressing it into the solution, leveling the surface;
cover the base tiles made of artificial or natural stone.
If the finishing is carried out with basement siding or fiber cement panels, then the insulation has the following diagram:
prepare surface;
install brackets for sheathing;
fasten the slabs– glue plus mechanical fasteners;
seams blown with foam;
mounted on brackets vertical sheathing made of galvanized profile;
sheathe sheathing with panels;
are closing The base has a low tide on top.
Basement insulation with EPS boards and stone paneling
Insulation of the base of a pile foundation
To insulate the foundations of a house on a pile foundation, a small wall is built that covers the space under the house. This type of base is called a pick-up. There are two options for this design:
small self-supporting wall made of brick, building blocks or rubble stone, standing on its own shallow foundation;
arrangement along the perimeter pile foundation frame made of wooden beam or profile, followed by covering with basement siding, fiber cement panels to look like stone or brick.
Both versions of the pile foundation base are usually insulated from the inside. To do this, use either EPS or sprayed polyurethane foam (rodents like to live in ordinary polystyrene foam).
This is an insulated subfloor of a panel house on a pile foundation
But the thermal insulation of the base does not exclude work on floor insulation.
How to insulate a floor
Thermal insulation of the floor is already a technology for insulating a panel house from the inside. From a heating engineering point of view, an insulated floor wooden house- This is a single-layer structure that simultaneously performs load-bearing and thermal insulation functions. There are different options for arranging a warm floor in a panel house, but they all come down to thin-layer cladding of the load-bearing wooden frame, inside of which thermal insulation materials are placed. And in order to protect the insulation from exposure to moisture and water vapor, it must be protected by continuous layers of vapor and waterproofing.
There are certain differences in the insulation of the floors of an apartment building and a private house. IN apartment building The floor insulation must be protected from the penetration of water vapor from below, from the side of another heated apartment. And here the vapor barrier is spread over the ceiling (from below relative to the insulation).
In a panel house, the partial pressure of water vapor in the warm air inside the room is higher than in the cold air from the side of the pile or strip foundation. Therefore, a vapor-impermeable barrier should be on the floor covering side.
One of the possible schemes for installing an insulated floor. Regardless of the materials of the floor covering and subfloor filing, the order of layers does not change
There are different options for arranging insulated wooden floor, but the principle is common to everyone, and the diagram looks like this:
boards subfloor;
continuous layer of waterproofing membrane ;
insulation;
solid vapor barrier layer;
finishing floor.
Important! Moisture from the insulation should be ventilated into the underground, and from there through the vents to the street.
How to insulate an attic
There are two standard schemes for insulating a panel house from the roof side: cold attic and attic (or combined roofing).
Insulating a cold attic
In this case, there is no insulation in the roof structure. Insulation is carried out over wooden floors.
This standard scheme insulation of a cold attic from the company Hexa, a manufacturer of insulating materials Izospan
It is important to observe here following conditions:
The vapor barrier is fixed on the surface of the false ceiling from the room side. It must protect not only the insulation, but also the load-bearing floor beams along with the sub-ceiling. Otherwise, the wooden structural elements will become moisturized from exposure to vapors in the warm air, and evaporation excess moisture of these, the outside of the room will be blocked by a vapor-proof layer.
Choose as a vapor barrier films with anti-condensation properties. These are two- or three-layer polymer materials with a rough (fleecy) surface that faces the room. They are able to partially retain condensate until conditions for its weathering appear.
The insulation is laid on false ceiling between load-bearing floor beams.
Lay on top of the insulation waterproofing superdiffusion membrane.
If the height of the floor beams is not sufficient to form a ventilated gap above the insulation, then they are filled with spacer counter battens. And the attic floor boards are already attached to them.
Attic insulation
There are two options for how to insulate a frame house for winter living by insulating the attic: this is thermal insulation of the roof or the outline of the living space.
Insulation of the circuit residential attic(attics) may also have different options. For example, as in this diagram - with roof insulation from the eaves to the top trim
But in any case, on the side of the roof on the rafters, in front of the sheathing (or continuous flooring), a waterproofing membrane must be laid.
For a metal roof, a gap between the waterproofing and roofing covering so that condensation can drain onto the drip line, and moisture can evaporate from the under-roof space. If the vapor permeability of the membrane is low, then a ventilation gap must remain between it and the insulation to ventilate water vapor from the mineral wool.
Roof insulation
It is easier to insulate the entire roof than to “cut out” the attic warm contour. Especially if the house is small.
This is what a diagram of an insulated roof looks like
Insulation of the entire roof is carried out as follows:
Between the rafters laying mats mineral wool. If the pitch of the rafters is greater than the width of the mat, then additional sheathing is installed. If less, the mats are trimmed. But in any case, the width of the mats should be 5 cm less than the pitch of the rafters.
On top of the insulation to the rafters (and sheathing) attach a continuous layer of vapor barrier. These can be materials with anti-condensation or reflective properties. The strips are laid overlapping, both horizontally and when extending along the length. All joints and abutments to structural elements are secured with self-adhesive vapor-tight tape. The anti-condensation or reflective surface should face the attic.
For creating a gap(and fastening the sheathing) a wooden block is nailed to the rafters.
Insulation of the residential perimeter of the attic
You can only insulate the part of the roof that encloses the attic itself. The insulation is laid from the line of the attachment points of the racks to the rafters, and so that it does not slip, between rafter legs install a horizontal strut. At the top, the border of the warm perimeter can run along the ridge or along the line of attachment of the upper trim. The upper harness in this case serves as load-bearing beams attic ceiling.
Two schemes for insulating the attic contour - without a ceiling and with a ceiling
If the attic has a ceiling, then its insulation is carried out according to the “cold attic” scheme.
The attic walls are insulated in this way:
from the roof side to the racks fasten the casing;
insulation laid between the racks;
attached to racks vapor barrier;
stuffed onto racks spacer bar(to form a gap between the vapor barrier and internal lining), the same strip serves as a counter-lattice for cladding the attic.
Video description
Demonstration video on attic insulation:
Conclusion
Insulation of a panel house under winter accommodation- the event is not easy. Only the correct choice of materials and adherence to technology guarantee that the expected effect will correspond to reality. Errors may result in the first heating season will go well, but during the next one the thermal insulation materials will partially lose their properties.
Frame houses are an excellent option for quick and inexpensive individual construction. However, despite these advantages, they have one significant drawback: taking into account the climatic conditions in most of the country, they require specific “revision” in the form of large-scale insulation work. How and with what help can this task be accomplished? There may be several options. It makes sense to dwell on the most popular methods of insulating a frame house.
Options for insulating a frame house
Insulation of a frame house with mineral wool
Mineral (stone) wool is chosen quite often as a thermal insulation material.
- This is explained by its excellent sound absorption and heat retention properties. It is an environmentally friendly and non-flammable material, and its five-centimeter layer can easily replace brickwork almost 60 cm wide (if we compare them in terms of thermal insulation characteristics).
- The main task when installing basalt wool is the competent and reliable protection rockwool from moisture.
- The formation of condensation on the material will negate all its wonderful characteristics.
Therefore, if such an expensive material as mineral wool was purchased for insulation, then saving on special membranes and vapor barrier films does not make sense.
Insulation of a frame house photo
Sequence of work when installing stone wool
- Basalt wool slabs are placed in cells formed by the frame. It is assembled in such a way that its vertical guides have a pitch of strictly 60 cm. This is the width of the material produced in a roll. The cut slab should fit between the posts with a little force and hold tightly, without sagging. As for the thickness of the insulation of a frame house, it varies depending on the region of the country. In areas with a milder climate, a layer of 10 cm is allowed. Where winters are severe, a layer of 15-20 cm will be required.
- To prevent the formation of “cold bridges” in the latter option, it is recommended to perform installation as follows. The first two layers of mineral wool (each 5 cm thick) are laid in the cells of the lathing. And the final one is done in such a way as to overlap the frame guides from above.
- Frame houses with outside have a mandatory vapor barrier layer, so before laying stone wool, you don’t have to duplicate it. But after all the layers of insulation have taken their places, you need to create a protective layer on top from moisture and condensation. You won't be able to get by with just one piece of material. Therefore the joints vapor barrier film carefully and carefully taped with construction tape.
- Mineral wool is also used to insulate the floor in a frame house. But its layer must be at least 20 cm. The work is carried out in the same way as with thermal insulation of walls.
Insulation scheme for a frame house
Insulation of a frame house video
Ecowool - an alternative way to insulate a frame house
This material belongs to the category of affordable insulation.
- This is possible due to the fact that it is produced from two main inexpensive components: waste from the production of cardboard, paper and waste paper.
- Both components form 80% of the total material, a little more than 10% is an antiseptic to prevent the development of microorganisms.
- The remainder of this percentage is the additive, the purpose of which is to minimize the flammability of the insulation.
Disadvantages of the material
- Areas of application for ecowool include small-scale construction, but owners of private houses do not always choose it. This is explained by a number of features of the material, which for some craftsmen are significant disadvantages.
- Good thermal insulation performance, which is attributed to ecowool, decreases over time due to the fact that, under the influence of natural processes, the insulation is compressed and its volume decreases. Losses can reach up to 1/5 of the total mass. To avoid such troubles, the material is laid with a similar reserve. An excess of 25% will guarantee that the thermal conductivity of the material will remain at the same level for the entire period of operation.
- Like anything that has a paper base, ecowool can absorb a significant amount of liquid. The indicator for this parameter ranges from 9 to 15%. And with each of them, the properties of the material to retain heat are lost. Therefore, it is extremely important to organize the insulated space in such a way that it is ventilated and there is a possibility of moisture removal.
- Only special equipment can provide a uniform volume of insulation injection. It is believed that professional technology makes it possible to control the density of the “stuffing” to minimize shrinkage. Consequently, you will have to either hire professionals or gain experience yourself, risking getting a level of thermal insulation of lower quality than expected.
- You can use the “dry” method of filling voids. His negative point- the formation of fine dust, the contact of which on the mucous membranes and respiratory organs is best avoided. The “wet” method of application requires drying the insulation layer for two to three days. Depending on the weather, the waiting time may increase. Given the limited time to build a house, this is considered a big disadvantage. Although, of the two methods, it is the wet application method that allows you to achieve the best results.
- The rigidity of ecowool does not allow it to be used without constructing a frame when it comes to insulating horizontal surfaces.
- Despite additives that make the material less flammable, complete fire protection cannot be achieved. Therefore, the use of ecowool is not recommended near fireplace pipes, chimneys, and especially near open flame sources. To eliminate the possibility of smoldering of the insulation, a protective barrier is constructed between it and the heat source. It is used as stone wool with foil coating or asbestos cement slabs.
- Particular attention to compliance with the standards for filling with ecowool is required when insulating walls or inclined structures. Ignoring the recommendation for material consumption at the rate of 65 kg per 1 m² will lead to rapid shrinkage and the formation of areas left without insulation.
Advantages of ecowool as a heat-saving material
It may seem that with such an extensive list of shortcomings, the use of ecowool is inappropriate. This is wrong. If the technology is followed, the advantages of the material become even more obvious.
- You need to start with the fact that not so much material is required. The above norm of 65 kg per m² is not always required, and the minimum consumption of ecowool is 28 kg per m³.
- The insulation provides a decent level of sound insulation. A layer of one and a half centimeters does not transmit sound up to 9 dB volume.
- The environmental friendliness of this material does not need confirmation, if you remember what is its basis. Actually, this is what the name says. Due to the “fault” of ecowool, allergies do not arise in the residents of the house during operation.
- The only thing you should pay attention to when studying the composition indicated by the manufacturer is what substance was used as an anti-flammable additive. Fire retardant best quality considered to be borax (sometimes called borax). Ammonium sulfates and boric acid may be the culprits of unpleasant persistent odor, and they do not provide long-term protection from fire.
- Thanks to seamless installation, the material fills the space without leaving voids, therefore, there are no unprotected areas left.
- The affordable price of insulation, coupled with good performance characteristics, often plays a decisive role when choosing a material.
Technology of insulating a frame house with ecowool
As mentioned, there are two main ways for insulation with this material: “dry” and “wet”. The second option can be performed on water based or using an adhesive composition. But no matter what great result he did not give, the simplest and most popular method is considered to be filling with dry insulation. So, to do the work manually, you will need to perform the following manipulations.
- It is a little easier to insulate floors. The purchased material must be loosened with a special apparatus, after which the pressed briquette, weighing 15 kg, will increase three times in volume.
- Ecowool prepared in this way is poured between the joists. This must be done gradually, leveling the layers. At the end the material should form a small mound. Why this surplus is needed has already been mentioned. It will compact under the weight of the boards.
- To carry out work on the walls, a layer of vapor barrier material is attached to the guide posts or immediately sheathed with sheets of plasterboard or OSB. This is not done completely, but a gap is left through which the ecowool is poured. It will gradually fill the space, compacting under its own weight. But at the final stage it will have to be compacted.
- All actions are carried out using protective equipment (goggles and a filter mask), and the filling process can be optimized by using an installation that blows out the material while simultaneously loosening it. Some construction companies provide the opportunity to rent such equipment.
Polystyrene foam and expanded polystyrene for insulating the walls of a frame house. What to choose
Both of these materials are used in frame houses. They insulate facades on the outside and inside of the building. Despite some similarities, polystyrene foam loses to its opponent in most respects, but due to its good thermal insulation characteristics and cheapness, it is in demand. Among the obvious disadvantages are:
- not very good sound insulation,
- allocation harmful substances when burning
- and obvious interest in it from rodents.
Insulation of a frame house with polystyrene foam from the outside
- The surface will have to be prepared along with all supporting structures. To do this, nails and remnants of other materials must be removed, and cracks must be sealed. Smooth surface will eliminate air gaps between the wall and the foam. After leveling the surface, it is treated with a primer intended for exterior work. The composition consumption starts from 150 ml per m².
- After the primer has dried, a system of vertical suspensions is constructed in increments of 60 (70) cm. Thanks to this, it will be possible to prevent distortions when attaching the slabs of material. The polystyrene foam is placed on glue, which is applied at five points in the form of small piles, and an adhesive strip is completely drawn along the perimeter of the slab. The canvas with glue is pressed tightly and forcefully to the base. Subsequent rows are laid in the manner brickwork, that is, at a run. A portion of the diluted composition must be consumed within an hour.
- If, as a result of laying, inconsistencies are formed between the sheets of material or unevenness is obtained, then all such defects are eliminated using a sharp and heated knife. The resulting gaps can be sealed:
- a mixture of crushed foam and glue,
- penoizol (liquid analogue of the material),
- polyurethane foam.
- Plastic dowels create additional fastening for the insulation. They will be required in quantities of at least five pieces per plate. Next comes the entire structure being reinforced with fiberglass for extra strength, and special profiles for the corners will create reliable stiffeners. It is better to apply putty in two layers, and the final finish can be, for example, facade paint.
Insulating a frame house with foam plastic from the inside
The technology for performing indoor work is similar. The surface preparation stage differs only in the use of primers for interior work.
- As an adhesive composition, you can use the usual tile adhesive for ceramic tiles. The use of dowels is also desirable.
- As for the cell sizes on the reinforcing mesh, they can be from 3 to 6 mm. It must be fastened by forming an overlap and pressing tightly against the foam.
- Drywall is often used as the final layer. We must not forget about the mandatory sealing of seams.
Insulation of a frame house with penoplex
- Expanded polystyrene in installation differs from foam plastic in increased requirements for creating protection from moisture and sunlight. The technology of wall mounting has no fundamental differences.
- What exactly to prefer, you will have to decide for yourself. Both materials really differ, including in price. The latter costs more, but it is more durable and dense.
Do-it-yourself insulation of a frame house with glass wool
Some do not take glass wool into account, considering it a material of the last generation, but in vain.
- Modern representatives of insulation in this category differ from their predecessors in improved characteristics. In addition, it costs less than its “brothers”, and is able to retain heat quite well.
- The principle of its installation is the same as that of stone wool. That is, in order to insulate, for example, floors, the material is cut from a roll so that it is a couple of centimeters wider than the distance between the joists.
- Before installation, a waterproofing layer is created. It can be either roofing felt or polyethylene.
How the frame house will be insulated in the end is not so important, the main thing is to proceed from own strength and opportunities and comply with technology in everything.
Insulation of a frame house- a responsible process, which then determines how much you will pay for heating and whether there will be ventilation in your house, whether you can calmly walk barefoot even in winter and allow children to play on the floor for hours, or whether you will have to buy warm home clothes, socks and slippers.
I will define important concepts needed to understand the text:
Closing the outline of a house- this is the result of that stage of construction when the house is covered with a roof, doors and windows are installed in it, i.e. We are protected from precipitation from the street.
Insulation “by surprise”- this is insulation in which the pieces of insulation are wider than the cavity into which we insert it, which leads to the fact that the insulation supports itself due to natural expansion (we compress it so that it fits into the desired cavity).
Let's look at insulation various elements frame.
Insulation of the floor in a frame house can be carried out in a variety of ways and with various insulation materials. If your house is not built using USP, then this point is definitely relevant for you. I drew this diagram to immediately highlight all types of floor insulation in a frame frame:
Risk of insulating the floor of a frame house until the circuit closes is that during construction, moisture will most likely get into the insulation more than once (rains are not uncommon in Russia, but floors made of plywood or OSB still allow moisture to pass through), which means that the insulation may lose all its insulating properties ( unless, of course, it's foam).
Insulation of the floor of a frame house after closing the circuit is devoid of this risk, but it requires additional movements: either removing the floor already under the roof or climbing under the house and insulating it from there, or building walls without a floor at all and installing the walls of the frame house directly on the logs (not recommended, this is quite dangerous).
As you already understood, the floor of a frame house can also be insulated both from above (while on the floor) and from below (from under the house). Let's look at everything possible options and potential problems.
Option 1. Insulation of the floor of a frame house from above until the contour is closed.
The most traditional option. Immediately after securing in place, we can insulate the floor of a frame house before covering it with plywood.
If our insulation glass wool or mineral wool, then we just need to simply insert rolls of insulation spaced between the joists. The width of the insulation should be 1-2 cm larger than the space between the joists (if the insulation is 600 mm wide, then the joist pitch is 630 mm, and the space between them is 580 mm). If the insulation does not match, then we cut the insulation to the required size.
To simplify this process, you can first hem boards or plywood underneath the joists so that the insulation cannot fall into the subfloor over time. To do this, before installation, either cranial blocks are nailed to the joists from below, onto which the slabs under the floor insulation will be attached (picture 1), or they are attached, and under it, an inch with a pitch of 300-400 mm across the joists (picture 2).
Everything is simpler and more complex at the same time. It’s easier, because it’s not scary for it to get wet, which means it’s not scary to insulate the floor of a frame house with polystyrene foam until the contour is closed. Harder because it's tough and doesn't stand up to surprise so easy, you need to cut it to the exact size of the gap between the joists (or even place it against one joist immediately during installation and press it with the adjacent joist, then there will be no gaps). True, when the boards dry out (unless, of course, the board was already dry), most likely, gaps will appear between the foam and the joists; it is better to foam this space (you can remove it from the underground later). You also need to hem something underneath the foam plastic (boards, plywood or wind protection). 
Option 2. Insulation of the floor of a frame house from below after closing the circuit.
If you have a basement or your house is on, and it is raised from the ground by at least 40 cm, then you can easily insulate the floor from below. To do this, you will need to prepare rolls of insulation, crawl under the house and place the insulation there at random. Then pull it under the insulation in the same way (or slabs supporting the insulation as in option 1). Remember that even if your piles are only 30 cm high above the ground, then adding a grillage to them, you get a distance to the floor joists of 50 cm, and this is already a completely working option for insulation from below.
Option 3. Insulation of the floor in a frame house from above after closing the circuit.
Insulating the floor of a frame house in this way is the most comfortable option, in my opinion. First we put the logs, secure them in their places, put ours on top, securing it TEMPORARILY with 2-4 self-tapping screws to the joists.
After which we put the walls on the plywood (but only load-bearing ones; we don’t put up non-load-bearing partitions at all yet), we put floor joists, rafters, etc. on the walls. until we close the entire circuit walls-roof-doors-windows.
Then we unscrew the screws from the plywood in the floor and cut out the plywood in the places where the load-bearing walls lie on it and insulate everything as in the first option (just don’t forget to add jumpers under the joints of the newly cut places in the plywood).
Order your home
There is another variation. If, before installing the walls, you place under them not solid sheets of plywood, but cut pieces 150 mm wide. In this case, there is no need to make additional jumpers, and there is also no need to cut anything, just unscrew the screws, remove the subfloor and insulate it.
Ecowool and floor insulation in a frame house from above after closing the circuit.
With ecowool everything is the same, only you need to attach a windbreak to the bottom of the joists or sew it up with something, because... ecowool is bulk and it needs a solid base (it also makes sense to use MDVP instead of wind protection in this case). A big plus of ecowool is that with it you won’t need to cut anything in any case, make a step under the subfloor slabs (and of course, under the required load).
At all, ecowool, in my opinion, is the best insulation for a frame house. If you decide to insulate your house with ecowool, contact me, I work with a real professional in insulating walls with ecowool, who travels to various regions.
Personally, for myself, I chose the option with ecowool.
Insulation of walls in a frame house
Insulation of walls in a frame house proceeds in a similar way. We insert the insulation between the . Remember that the pitch of the racks should also be 20-30 mm greater than the width of the insulation. Typically, the pitch of the racks is 625 mm with a 40 mm board and 635 mm with a 50 mm board. By the way, it seems to me that it is better to trim OSB-3 a couple of times than to constantly trim the insulation.
Video about insulation of walls in a frame house from the Rockwool company (manufacturer of insulation of the same name):
What kind of insulation is there for walls?
Types of insulation for walls: mineral wool with a density of more than 30 kg/m3, ecowool ( wet method) and polystyrene foam. These three modern insulation used in 95% of walls frame houses Russia. It's difficult to say exactly what better thermal insulation the walls are ecowool or mineral wool or polystyrene foam, since each insulation has its own pros and cons.
Insulation for external walls
Special external insulation for walls it is used if you want to make a plaster facade using insulation. In such cases, you have 2 options: polystyrene foam or mineral wool high density(about 125 kg/m3).
The cheapest and best insulation for walls
We can say for sure that the cheapest insulation for walls is mineral insulation with a minimum density, but it is not recommended to use it, although some take risks and even use glass wool in the walls of a frame house. Over time, low-density basalt can settle in the walls and cracks will appear.
In my opinion, the best insulation for frame walls is. That’s why we insulate the houses of our clients, and we haven’t had any dissatisfied ones in 7 years of work. Ecowool can even withstand fires.
So contact us, we will insulate your walls with ecowool. But we had to throw mineral wool out of the walls more than once because it had become unusable. Of course, it wasn’t her fault, she just didn’t follow the insulation technology, but ecowool forgives even that.
Cross insulation of the walls of a frame house from the outside
Cross insulation of the walls of a frame house from the inside
Insulate a frame house from the inside invented by the Scandinavians. In fact, it is much more convenient than outside, because... In this option, we are not afraid of precipitation and other weather disasters (in particular, hints from a neighbor). Insulation from the inside It usually also comes in horizontal lathing 40×50 or 50×50 with a pitch of 400-625 mm, only the lathing goes on top plastic film(vapor barriers).
Do not forget that the sheathing breaks at the openings: 
Insulation of the attic floor (ceiling) of a frame house
WITH top floor everything is the same as with the floor of a frame house, only there is no point in insulating from below, we do everything from above. Remember that you can pour or lay not only 150-200 mm of insulation (in the size of the floor joists), but also 300, 400 or even 500 mm of insulation. Walking on it will be problematic, but it will be very warm in winter and cool in summer.
Attic insulation
Video about insulating the attic with Rockwool:
Insulation of the basement of a frame house
It is convenient to insulate the base of a frame house with polystyrene foam or extruded foam plastic, which is attached to special fasteners.
So, in this article we introduced you to the most different options insulation of a frame house. This is a very important stage that can directly affect the health of you and your loved ones, so I urge you to take it responsibly.
And traditionally, I remind you about our services - you can buy a ready-made one from us or order its development according to your needs, and if you are still interested in insulation, we will insulate your house with ecowool or bring it.
Frame houses are deservedly considered healthy housing, since the main material of such houses is wood, which does not lose its relevance from year to year. Frame construction popular and developing in many construction companies, as well as in the private sector.
Frame house - perfect option affordable and attractive housing, and more than 20% of construction is now underway. The cost of materials and work for the construction of a frame house starts from 300-500 thousand rubles, which is much less than the cost of a small but full-fledged apartment. Even in such an inexpensive frame house you can create comfortable conditions residence, not only with the help of finishing, but also by creating the correct insulation of the frame house.
Insulation of a frame house
After constructing the main structure, creating thermal insulation is the first thing to do. It is very important to choose the right type of insulation for a frame house.
Styrofoam
Foam plastic is the most common and cheap option to execute step-by-step insulation frame house. This material is easy to transport, but it is fragile and can break. The disadvantages of polystyrene foam include its fire hazard and the release of harmful substances during combustion and even simply when the temperature rises.
The frame is covered with foam plastic.
Insulation of a frame house with polystyrene foam is most often done due to low thermal conductivity, and this characteristic is the most important for insulation. Also, when insulating the walls of a frame house with polystyrene foam, you can save a lot on thermal insulation works and do it yourself. When installing foam plastic, you will not need to make a vapor barrier.
Mineral wool
Mineral wool is an excellent sound insulator and heat insulator, the most fireproof material for insulating a frame house with your own hands. However, it can absorb moisture quite well, deteriorate under its influence, crack and collapse.
Insulation of a frame house requires the installation of a vapor barrier, which is made from a special waterproof film. The joints of the film are overlapped and glued with reinforced tape or a special adhesive film.
Basalt wool Izover.
What you need to pay attention to when choosing insulation:
- Thermal conductivity.
- Fire resistance.
- Frost resistance.
- Noise insulation.
- Lifetime.
- Easy installation when insulating a frame house with your own hands.
On a note
It is better to insulate a frame house with mineral wool in the form of slabs rather than rolls, because breaks and damage will be excluded.
Other types of insulation
- Ecowool is a high-tech material in which there is absolutely no possibility for rodents and insects to live in it. The material is ideal for insulating a frame house from the inside due to its characteristics; its only drawback is the rather high cost of both the material and the installation procedure.
- – expanded clay, slag, sawdust. Good insulation, which this moment more used on flat surfaces. You can insulate the roof and floor of a frame house with the obligatory use of waterproofing, since it often gets wet, settles and requires replacement.
- Glassine – treated with bitumen thick paper. An excellent moisture insulator, great protection from the wind.
- Polyurethane foam is a good material, which has a number of significant disadvantages - it is afraid of direct sunlight, and it is highly costly to insulate a frame house from the outside.
- Penoplex - it contains extruded polystyrene foam. Penoplex is produced in rectangular slabs different thicknesses from 20 to 100 mm. Insulating a frame house with penoplex is justified by the fact that the material does not emit harmful substances. Like polystyrene foam, it conducts heat poorly, but it is much stronger and easy to process.
Mineral wool. Insulation of the walls of a frame house is carried out after the construction of the power frame and its placement under the roof. This procedure is due to the preservation of materials from getting wet. Especially if cotton insulation is used, which loses its heat-saving properties when exposed to water.
The video of insulating a frame house shows that mineral wool can also be installed for internal insulation of a frame house. Subsequently, the insulation boards are covered with OSB or clapboard. Additional insulation of a frame house made from the inside takes up part of the usable area.
Before taking measures to strengthen the walls of a frame house, it is necessary to carry out “ general cleaning", clean all beams and niches inside the frame of the house. Seal joints and cracks with polyurethane foam.
Cross insulation
IN modern construction houses, it is popular to cross-insulate a frame house with outside. This method of insulation helps to get rid of cold bridges that occur at the points of contact between the insulation and the wooden frame. Also, wood itself is a bridge of cold.
Vertical cross planking. The usual thickness of the insulation of a frame house is 150 mm, which is placed between the frame posts. The insulation is used in the form of slabs, and its width should be one cm larger than the distance between the posts, which will allow the insulation to adhere more closely to the wood.
Additionally, horizontal bars of 50x50 mm are nailed to the outside of the frame, with a distance of 590 mm between them to tightly fix the insulation, the size of which is 600 mm. Next, a moisture-proof membrane is attached to the sheathing using a stapler and overlapped, and blocks moisture from entering the inside of the frame.
A counter lathing is nailed onto the moisture-proof membrane and then facade material, thereby creating space for ventilation and removal of excess moisture. A ventilated facade is created, which is simply necessary in the technology of insulating a frame house.
On a note
There is no need to steam and waterproof the outside - this will further damage the wood of the frame. It is important to leave a small distance between the outer skin and the façade to ensure better ventilation.
We insulate the ceiling. Insulation of the ceiling of a frame house
Before carrying out work on insulating the ceiling in a frame house, it is necessary to install a ventilation system and think through openings for the exit of all pipes.
From the attic side, or if the frame house is multi-story, a layer of foil foam is attached, also with a construction stapler, and layers of mineral wool are laid between the beams. Additional insulation will be glassine strips and unedged boards laid on top of the cotton wool.
Insulation of floor and ceiling. Floor insulation
It is better to carry out insulation after installing the power frame of the house and placing the building under the roof to avoid getting wet insulation material. done between the joists on the subfloor, another layer of insulation is placed on top, and then covered chipboard sheets or OSB.
Polystyrene foam or mineral wool can be used as floor insulation. It is not advisable to combine these two materials for insulation due to different characteristics. The thickness of the insulation of a frame house can be quite large, but then it is worth taking this into account already at the design stage and leaving the necessary gaps.
Pitched roof. Roof insulation
If you plan to equip it, then the roof insulation is carried out in rafter system. And if the attic is not heated, then insulation is carried out by covering the upper floor.
Insulating the roof of a frame house can be done using inexpensive materials such as straw, shavings, and sawdust. They are not expensive, but quite fire hazardous and susceptible to the development of microorganisms and fungal infections. Of course, this is already the last century.
We lay mineral wool in the frame of the house. There is a new scheme for insulating a frame house, which is based on the use of modern thermal insulation materials. Now they give preference mineral wool, foam plastic, penoplex. Also for flat roof You can lay bulk insulation.
Useful tips- The thickness of the insulation of a house built according to frame technology depends on where the insulation is intended. Typically, the thickness of the insulation is from 150 to 200 mm.
- The installation technology of the house indicates the presence of nicks and nails in the beams. To avoid damaging the insulation, it is recommended to clean and sand damaged structures.
- Before starting work on internal insulation frame, seal the cracks and joints using polyurethane foam and pieces of mineral wool.
If you decide to insulate a frame house with your own hands, step-by-step instruction on our website will help you understand the process and do everything at minimal cost. The price of insulating a frame house will depend on many factors, so first of all choose insulation and materials that do not require special skills and equipment during installation.