This method allows you to solve housing problems in rural areas and quickly build up summer cottages.
In addition, the frame walls of these houses make your home safe, warm, environmentally friendly and quiet.
The first timber frame housesThis type of construction has gained particular popularity and fame for the possibility of using more economical material.
When erecting and installing on frame walls, several times less wood is used than for cobbled and log walls. Thanks to this feature, their weight is reduced and the house can be installed on.
For the inside of the block, use a special polyurethane, or. The thermal insulation characteristics of these materials are very high. This ensures less heat loss when heating the room. You can connect all layers into a monolithic panel using polyurethane glue. Holes for doors or windows in such blocks can be cut at the construction site.
By their design features, frame walls made of small-sized panels do not differ in any way from the features of standard wall partitions. The only difference is that during the device, the panels are laid in one piece, and their joints are reinforced with a special silicone mass. For a firm grip and fixation of individual parts and elements with a lower beam, the fastening is fixed strictly along the seams and the inner side of the frame wall to be assembled.
Installation of walls of a frame house
Installing the wall alone The installation and assembly of frame walls begins with the lower strapping. For this, wooden beams are also prepared. The lower harness is laid in a strictly horizontal position. All splice joints at the joints and in the corners, if necessary, can be made in half a tree. During installation, be sure to control the rectangularity of all lined contours through the measurements of the lower diagonals. Fasten the lower strapping with twists to the anchors embedded in the foundation.
Install the racks with a minimum step of 600 mm.
The distance between the uprights for and doors can be determined by the size of the box of these elements. If necessary, their number is increased by adding sub-window and overhead racks.
For the strength and rigidity of the supporting structure, in places where the wall partition adjoins the frame house, a special additional support is installed, which is reinforced with struts.
On top of the racks, the upper harness is laid, connecting them to each other in half a tree. When building up the harness, its fastening is carried out strictly above the racks. The resulting frame wall structure, as a rule, is sheathed with wood or other selected materials with necessarily laying and.
It's no secret that any house consists of several basic elements - the foundation, walls, floors and, of course, the roof. All of these elements are equally important, and each of them needs to be given a lot of attention during the construction process. Continuing the theme of building a frame house with our own hands, in this article we will deal with the question of how to build the walls of a frame house? Together with the site, we will deal with two technologies for their construction and study in detail the structure of the walls.
Do-it-yourself frame house walls photo
Frame house walls: device and basic elements
The wall of a frame house is a combination of various building materials combined into one block. Some of them provide rigidity, others provide protection from the wind, and still others help keep the house warm. All of them are very important and are by no means superfluous - this means that throwing out any one element, saving money, as some kulibins do, is tantamount to shortening the service life of the building as a whole. With this, I think, everything is clear, and now is the time to study the question, what are these important elements and what are they intended for. Let's start in order.
- Frame. This is the foundation of the walls, which is completely responsible for their shape, size, rigidity and the ability of the house to withstand loads. The frame of the walls is made either from special metal profiles, or from a wooden bar with a cross section of at least 100 by 50 mm - this is when we talk about the thickness of the outer walls of the frame house. Internal walls, if they are not load-bearing, are made somewhat thinner, although this should not be done for purposes.
- Internal cladding. This is a plate (OSB-3, as a rule) - it is screwed onto the frame using self-tapping screws. With a serious approach to business, it is also glued with a special glue.
- Vapor barrier. Installed on the inside of the wall under the OSB - its task is to dosed supply of moisture vapor contained in the air into the wall. It allows just enough moisture to pass through so that it does not get wet and does not lose its qualities, and at the same time has time to bring it out.
Construction of the walls of a frame house photo
- Insulation for walls. In most cases, it is mineral wool, or to be more precise, a basalt slab. If we are talking about factory sip panels, then they are insulated with polyurethane foam sealant.
- Wind protection. It has a double purpose - from the outside, it creates a wind-proof barrier (hence the name), and from the inside it releases excess vapors that accumulate in the heat-insulating material.
- Outer cladding. Again OSB, which, as in the case of the inner lining, is screwed to the frame with self-tapping screws and is additionally attached with glue. By the way, both for external and internal cladding, in most cases OSB is used with a thickness of 12mm.
- Facade. In most cases, this is, but sometimes in the process of finishing frame structures, and is used, which is somewhat cheaper, but it is more difficult in terms of labor costs.
Pie walls of a frame house photo
In principle, this is all - this is how the so-called pie of the wall of a frame house looks from the side. The only thing that can still be added here is to clarify the point that the ventilated facade must be compiled onto the crate without fail - that's why it is ventilated so that the space behind it is ventilated.
Frame house wall structure: assembly sequence
Again, despite the two different technologies for building a frame house, the assembly of walls is carried out in almost the same way. The only difference is that using ready-made panels, you will bypass a lot of different stages of work. But if you decide to assemble these panels yourself, then assembling them will look almost exactly the same as building a regular frame house. You will have to carry out the following stages of work.
- Assembling wall frames. As a rule, each separately taken wall of the house is one or two parts of the frame - so to speak, segments that are assembled separately. In fact, these are rectangles assembled from a wooden bar, inside which there are vertical stiffeners, installed with a step of 625 mm in the centers - this is half the width of the OSB sheet. If the timber allows (its length), then it is better to make the frame in the entire width of the wall. If not, then you can divide it into parts. By the way, if we are talking about a two-story structure, then the step of the stiffeners is better to be reduced to 316.5 mm. It is better to prepare such frames right away, so that after assembly they completely form the outer walls of the house.
- Installation of frames on. Let's start right away with the fact that the top of the foundation needs to be qualitatively - treated with bituminous mastic and pasted over with roofing material in a couple of layers. Then everything is simple, but, nevertheless, you need the help of reliable and strong male hands. At the same time, you will have to lift and hold two frames at once (angular) - while several people are holding them, one must twist them together. After the fastening is done, the frames can be released and installed over. Substituting the blocks (if necessary), the frame, clearly installed in the level, is attached to the foundation with anchor bolts. In this way, all the frames are mounted into a single whole product, namely the walls of the frame house with their own hands.
Walls of a frame house photo
- Further, work on the manufacture of walls, as a rule, is postponed until the moment it is assembled - in most cases, the frame of the house is assembled completely, but there are exceptions. In general, at the next stage of work, the construction of the walls of a frame house involves cladding them from the inside. Everything is simple here - the OSB is cut with a jigsaw to a given size and is simply screwed to the frame, which is previously covered with a vapor barrier film using a stapler. It is quite possible to cope with this work even for one person, and, as a rule, it does not cause difficulties.
- Now we move outside and put insulation between the frame beam. This is also an elementary work that you can easily cope with on your own. We cut the insulation to size and push it inside the wall. We do not press strongly, since it is not cotton wool that keeps the heat in the house, but the air that is between its fibers.
- And then we stretch the windproof film with a stapler and sheathe the frame of the OSB house.
Correct wall of a frame house photo
In principle, everything, the correct wall of the frame house is ready, and there is not so much left to add - in particular, to remind about. As a standard, it is laid inside the walls and this is done before they are insulated and sheathed on the second side. Do not forget about this moment, since later it will be very difficult to hold out, if not to say that it is impossible.
This is how the walls of a frame house are made. Naturally, there may be some variation, but overall, their layer cake remains the same. Speaking of variations, I mean changing the sequence of work - for example, you can first make the outer cladding of the house, and then go inside the room and not suffer from wind and bad weather. It will even be more logical and more convenient to carry out internal communications.
Frame-frame construction of walls
The design of any lightweight frame house consists of several key elements - a supporting frame, insulation laid inside, as well as external and internal cladding with additional layers.
Frame technology has an impressive list of advantages. Frame houses have a minimum wall thickness compared to any other technology and, accordingly, the best ratio of building area to usable area of premises.
Houses built using frame technology are lightweight and have minimal foundation requirements, which can significantly save on its cost.
Despite the small thickness, subject to construction technology, the thermal insulation capacity of frame walls is very high.
Floor slab angle
in the frame structure
Junction of the inner wall
Depending on the type and thickness of the insulation used, the frame walls have the following approximate thermal resistance parameters
- Minvata 150mm thick, - R = 3.2
- Minvata 200mm thick, - R = 4.3
- Expanded polystyrene - 150mm thick, - R = 3.7
- Expanded polystyrene - 200mm thick, - R = 5
The construction of frame houses should be carried out from dry lumber. The use of raw wood will inevitably lead to its subsequent drying out, deformation, cracks and loosening of fasteners. The degree of these negative phenomena may be different, but one way or another they will manifest themselves. The most common section of the board used for the frame is 150x50mm, 200x50mm. The width depends on the required thickness of the insulation.
Oriented strand board (OSB, OSB), moisture resistant plywood, or cement strand board (DSP) can be used as the outer skin of the frame. The outer and inner cladding, in addition to protecting the frame and insulation from the external environment, gives the frame additional spatial strength.
Dense mineral wool insulation or expanded polystyrene can be used to insulate frame houses. Mineral wool insulation should be designed for use in vertical structures and keep its shape well, otherwise it will slide and form non-insulated cavities in the upper part of the wall frame.
If foam is used to insulate a house, then after installation in the frame, the slots around the perimeter are necessarily sealed with polyurethane foam. In this regard, it is necessary to take into account the fact that despite the lower cost of expanded polystyrene, in comparison with mineral wool, the required amount of foam can negate the difference in their price.
The most important element in the composition of the wall of a frame house is a vapor barrier. It is installed from the inside of the room and protects the insulation from getting wet. Particular attention should be paid to the quality of the vapor barrier, its tightness. All seams must be glued with double-sided tape. When using expanded polystyrene as a heater, there is no need for a vapor barrier.
The presence of a vapor barrier as part of frame structures creates a closed air environment inside the house. For this reason, in order to maintain a comfortable microclimate in the premises, an effective ventilation system should be arranged.
Frame technology involves two different approaches to the construction process. In the first variant, construction is carried out from piece materials. Preparation, sawing of materials and assembly of the house from them takes place directly on the site.
In the second version, the house is assembled from ready-made large-size panels (boards), manufactured at the factory in accordance with the project. They are delivered to the construction site in the required configuration, dimensions, with window and door openings. At the construction site, only their installation and assembly takes place. This approach allows you to erect a frame house box at a very high speed. At the same time, the weight of some panels can be very high, and therefore a crane or a team of several people may be needed to install frame-panel walls.
Panel technology has options. In one case, the shields can have only one-sided skin. The laying of the insulation and the cladding on the opposite side occurs only after the installation of the entire box. Another option for frame-panel houses is the construction of the so-called SIP panels. SIP panel consists of a thick layer of dense polystyrene foam on which sheets (OSB, OSB) are glued on both sides under high pressure. At the same time, expanded polystyrene performs not only a heat-insulating function, but also increases the strength of the structure. Houses built with SIP panels are more durable than conventional frame frames.
Frame house construction
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The structure of the frame consists of the following elements - the lower and upper strapping, vertical posts, slopes, basement and interfloor floors, window and door openings. The sequence of assembling a frame house depends on the applied engineering solutions.
Facing with a blockhouse
Basement floor platform
Plaster facade
Basement overlap for wall trim
Basement slab with independent
leaning. Brick cladding
The most common is the so-called platform framework. The name is due to the fact that before the walls are erected, a basement ceiling is first built on the foundation with a sub-floor laying. Fragments of the walls are assembled into frames already on the finished platform, after which they are installed and fastened to the ceiling directly over the subfloor. Then the operations are repeated, the interfloor overlap is mounted, on which the walls of the second floor are installed.
The advantage of the platform frame is its sophisticated technology and ease of work. The presence of a flat base facilitates the layout, adjustment and installation of elements, allows the assembly of the wall frame with maximum precision and quality.
The disadvantage of the platform design is that after laying the sheets of the subfloor (OSB, plywood, DSP), it is not recommended to let it get wet. In this regard, in conditions of rainy weather, it is necessary to provide measures to protect the overlap from rain.
Another disadvantage is that in a platform-type frame, it is extremely difficult to repair floors. The load-bearing walls stand directly on the floor beams, which makes it impossible to replace the beams without serious intervention in the rest of the structure.
This problem is not particularly relevant if the elements of the floor structure are properly processed and operated in conditions of normal humidity. However, in difficult conditions - poorly ventilated underground, constant waterlogging, poor biosecurity, the service life of basement structures may turn out to be much shorter than that of the walls, and the way to solve this problem will be very difficult. In this regard, it is desirable to provide access to the underground for periodic inspection of structures.
Alternatively, there are other options for the construction of the basement floor. In one of them, the overlap is constructed after the installation of the wall frame. The beams are laid on top of the horizontal plank of the wall frame. This option allows you to replace the floor beams if necessary. The disadvantage of this scheme is that in the absence of an even base, the assembly of the wall frame takes place in more difficult conditions. In addition, it becomes more difficult to trim slabs of the subfloor and insulation in the area of \ u200b \ u200bthe junction of the ceiling with the walls.
In another version, the basement floor is constructed as a separate box inside the perimeter of the walls. Thanks to this, the frames of the walls and floors are completely independent from each other. This design is possible only if the foundation of the house is wide enough, which allows you to move the walls to its outer edge, and put floor beams on the inner one.
The good thing about this method is that, with the best maintainability, it retains the advantages of the platform. On the foundation, you can first build a floor box, and assemble the walls on it. The only difference is that after assembly, the walls are placed on the side, and not placed on the ceiling. The disadvantage is that this design requires a wider foundation strip than previous options. This leads to an increased consumption of materials for the foundation and an increase in its cost.
Frame houses can be built on almost any type of foundation. The simplest solution involves the use of a columnar or pile foundation without a monolithic grillage. In this case, the tops of the pillars are combined with a thick strapping beam, on which the frame is being constructed. Before erecting the frame, a layer of roll waterproofing is laid on the foundation.
Exterior decoration of frame houses
The decoration of a frame house can be done with a variety of materials. The simplest types of finishes are siding, blockhouse, and similar materials. For all these materials, vertical guides are installed - wooden bars or a metal profile.
The guides are installed on top of the outer rough skin, which, in turn, is preliminarily covered with a wind-moisture protective membrane. Thanks to the guides between the trim and the rough skin, a ventilated space is left that facilitates the escape of steam through the membrane. After installing the guides, the trim elements are attached to them using self-tapping screws. Installation is carried out from bottom to top.
A more complex option is the plastering of the frame. On the one hand, the outer cladding made of OSB, DSP or plywood is a fairly flat plane that can be primed and painted. On the other hand, all sheet materials undergo deformation when moistened. This leads to wave formation and cracking of the face coating at the joints of the slabs.
For these reasons, plastering is carried out using the "wet facade" technology, which avoids cracking. To do this, a thin layer of rigid insulation is attached to the outer cladding, on which a layer of plaster is applied over a fiberglass mesh. This is followed by a layer of primer and decorative plaster. An additional plus of this finish is that the additional layer of insulation, being continuous, increases the overall tightness of thermal insulation, eliminating cold bridges in the area of joints of frame elements.
Another option for facing a frame house is brick lining of the walls. To perform brick cladding, it is necessary that the foundation protrudes beyond the outer plane of the walls, allowing the brick wall to be supported on it with a gap from the outer sheathing of at least 50 mm. The brick is attached to the frame wall with flexible ties, for which a metal perforated tape is suitable.
A lighter alternative to massive brick cladding is clinker facade cladding. It is produced in the widest range of colors and textures, and at the same time does not require additional width of the foundation. The technology of its installation is similar to the plaster cladding of the facade, but instead of decorative plaster, the tiles are glued.
Metal fasteners for wooden structures
Roof and beam fasteners
Concealed bracket
Currently, for the installation of wooden, including frame structures, in addition to simple nail connections, metal fasteners are actively used. Their use allows you to reduce the number of complex carpentry work, which speeds up the construction process. When using metal fasteners, there is no weakening of the cross-sections, as in the case of notches.
Manufacturers offer a wide range of wood fasteners. Each specific type of fastener is manufactured in various sizes, allowing you to choose it for the design parameters. Perforated fasteners are made of sheet steel with a thickness of 1.5 - 2 mm. To protect against corrosion, the metal is galvanized.
Perforated mounting plates
They contain many holes for nails / screws or bolts, allow reliable nailing of two or more elements in one plane at any angle. They are superimposed on the knot from both sides. They are actively used to connect elements in roof trusses. Allows for installation directly on the construction site. If necessary, the plates can be cut to fit the shape of the knot.
Nail Plates
- (metal toothed plates MZP) are made by punching a steel sheet, as a result of which several rows of teeth-nails with a common base are obtained. They have the same purpose as perforated plates, however, unlike them, they require installation in an industrial environment.
Fastening with nail plates is carried out using a press using the indentation method. Hammering the nail plates is unacceptable, as it does not provide a reliable connection. For these reasons, the use of nail plates is advisable precisely in production conditions, since it provides a high speed of assembly of structures, and is ineffective at the construction site.
Serves to connect perpendicular structural elements resting on each other - beams and rafters. It can also be used for stitching cross members from the underside of beams. For more effective fasteners, it is better to install a pair of fasteners not strictly symmetrically, but turn one of them with a shelf in the other direction. In some cases, the rafter-beam fastening can be replaced with a regular corner.
It is used in the construction of houses from a log or a bar of natural moisture, if a layered rafters are required. In this case, as a result of the shrinkage of the frame, the distance from the ridge girder to the Mauerlat may change. Therefore, rigid attachment of the rafters to the Mauerlat is unacceptable. Sliding fasteners allow the bottom edge of the rafters to move freely relative to the wall on which they rest. The installation of the sliding mount should be carried out taking into account the maximum amount of rafter displacement.
Beam supports
Allow to attach at right angles horizontal bearing elements - (beams, purlins) to various parts of the structure. Fastening to the main support can be carried out both on nails or self-tapping screws, and on bolts. Beam supports are available in a wide range of sizes to accommodate various beam widths and heights.
In some cases, if structures are part of the interior, increased aesthetic requirements are imposed on them. In this situation, they either try to mount the fasteners imperceptibly, or use the technology of cutting elements. Some fasteners are specially designed for flush-mounted installation.
These include the hidden beam bracket. Unlike conventional beam supports, after installation, it is completely hidden in the body of the beam. To use the bracket, a vertical cut is made from the end of the beam, and holes are drilled for metal pins. The bracket is attached to the supporting part of the structure, in which a platform for the bracket is preliminarily selected for the thickness of its metal, after which a beam is put on it and pins are inserted.
Corners
Various sizes are used to connect structures at right angles. May have holes for nails / screws and bolts. Often used to connect struts (vertical structural members) with horizontal members.
In addition to the corners with round holes, there are so-called adjustable corners with oblong bolt holes. This allows for subsequent adjustment of the position of the connected elements relative to each other.
There are also corners with an attachment angle of 135 degrees and corners with a bendable part, which allows joining structural elements at any desired angle.
Used to increase the strength of bolted joints, beams and rafters. The discs can be both double-sided, for installation between the connected elements, and one-sided for installation under the bolt heads. The fastening is effective when the diameter of the hole in the disc matches the diameter of the bolt.
T-mount
Serves to connect two perpendicular elements to each other. In a certain situation, it can replace the mount with corners.
It is not for nothing that frame technology for building houses is very popular among buyers of suburban housing. After all, this is ease of construction, and low cost, and assembly speed. But when designing such a house, it is necessary to remember that the walls of this house must protect not only from wind and cold, but also from extraneous noise. However, first let's talk about the frame house as a whole, because the walls by themselves will not line up into the house.
Bottom strapping
When the foundation is ready, we start building the house itself. It is very important at the very beginning to accurately set the strapping of the frame structure, because the stability of the whole house will depend on it. In fact, the lower strapping of the frame structure is its basis, with the help of which the walls are attached to the foundation, and the load of the entire house on the foundation is evenly distributed. For the strapping device, as a rule, a bar with a section of 150 * 200 mm is used. At the same time, the distance between the vertical posts of the frame should not exceed 2.5 meters.
Subtleties of the lower strapping device
Preparation for laying the strapping beam consists in arranging the waterproofing of the upper part of the foundation. For this, one of the following materials is well suited: roofing material, bituminous mastic, etc., well, and then in order:
- we treat the strapping bar with an antiseptic;
- we make the connections of the timber in half a tree and fix them with staples and nails 120 mm;
- to strengthen the structure, we fix the corner joints with metal corners;
- we fasten the strapping of the frame house to the foundation with an anchor bolt tightened with a nut.
Top strapping
After installing the vertical racks of the outer walls of the house, it is the turn of the interfloor overlap arrangement. And this work should begin with the installation of the upper harness. As a material for it, you can use a double board with a thermal insulation gasket or a solid bar. The final thickness of such a prefabricated (or solid) bar should not be thicker than the vertical rack of the frame wall. The height of the brace should be calculated by a specialist, since the uniformity of the distribution of the load exerted by the upper structures on the lower part of the frame house depends on this parameter.
How to fix the timber
The fastening methods are exactly the same as for the installation of the vertical frame racks: either with corners or with fasteners through full / incomplete cutting. Before installing the floor beams, you need to make the frame of the first floor quite rigid, since the floor beams are also the lags of the floor of the second floor. The necessary rigidity of the frame will be given by permanent braces, which can be mounted either with a cut or with the help of metal fasteners. You can also secure the braces by punching through them with nails. In this case, the length of the nail should be such that, after passing through the brace, it goes deeper into the rack by at least 80 mm.
Important! If you mounted the vertical frame racks using a cut, then all the connecting nodes should be additionally reinforced with metal brackets, which can be made either from reinforcement with a cross section of 8-10 mm, or from sheet metal, the thickness of which is at least 3-4 mm.
Problems encountered during installation and options for their solution
- Difficulties may arise during the installation of the strapping. You need to be prepared for them, but it will be even better if you provide some nuances and prevent problems from arising.
- So, when constructing a foundation made of screw piles or blocks, it sometimes happens that some of its elements may not coincide with the rest in height, that is, they will not be located at the same level. As a result, the strapping will not fall on all piles and the load will not be distributed unevenly on it.
- In the future, it will be very difficult to fix something, therefore, even at the stage of laying the foundation, you should carefully check the geometry of the pile field and eliminate the identified errors immediately.
- The sagging of the strapping bar above the foundation can be corrected with wooden spacers, but it is better not to allow such sagging. All pillars must be brought out to the same level.
- When drilling a hole in the timber for the foundation anchor, proceed carefully, as there is a risk of getting cuts of the wrong size. For the same reason, wood can crack.
Wall element essence
A frame house is a special type of low-rise building based on a rigid structure consisting of vertical posts connected horizontally to each other. This rigid structure is called the frame. The device of the wall of a frame house, in other words, is called a pie, since such a wall consists of several layers.
At first glance, it may seem that it is very simple to erect a frame structure, and this is really so, but the expected result can be achieved only by consistently performing all the stages, and adhering to a certain technology, which still has its own tricks:
- Wall thickness - it must be selected in accordance with the purpose of the building and the climatic zone.
- Good insulation is the material that combines quality and affordable cost.
- The insulation must be protected from the effects of various atmospheric phenomena. For this, special films are used.
- If the insulation is put incorrectly, then cold bridges can form in the walls - areas through which heat will leave.
- External finishing is carried out taking into account all the requirements for the materials used in its construction.
Now let's talk about everything in order.
Wall thickness
The main task in the construction of any house is to make it as warm as possible, while reducing heating costs. This can only be achieved if the thermal conductivity of the walls is minimized. A properly arranged frame wall will keep the heat inside the room and not let the cold out from the outside. To achieve the maximum effect, the frame posts should be made of 200 mm thick timber.
For areas with a hot climate, the walls can be made thinner - here the main task will be to minimize the cost of ventilation, air conditioning, and everything will depend on the size of the insulation.
If you are building a country house and plan to use it only in the summer, the optimal wall thickness will be 40 mm. For the frame of such a house, a "forty" edged board with a width of about 150 mm is usually used.
Insulation for the wall
If you look at the wall in section, you can see that the insulation takes up the bulk of it. It performs the function of the enclosing structure - it provides reliable sound and heat insulation of the premises.
The main types of insulation for a frame house:
- Polyfoam is an inexpensive material, but it has many disadvantages. This is fragility, and low sound insulation, flammability, a high risk of damage by rodents.
- Mineral wool is the most popular material used today by most of the construction companies offering ready-made frame house projects.
- Ecowool and polyurethane foam have exceptional protection parameters. When used as a heater, steam insulation is not required. The disadvantage is the rather high price.
We will consider filling the wall of a frame house using the example of mineral wool, as the most popular insulation. And you will find more information about insulation and the risks of errors.
How to lay insulation
Insulation can be laid both on top of the finished exterior finish, and directly into the frame. Usually, to ensure the rigidity of the structure, the outer surface of the frame wall is sheathed with either plywood sheets or OSB plates. In this case, the insulation is attached to them. If you decide to make the outer cladding from edged boards, then a special windproof film will need to be laid between the sheets of insulation and the cladding.
Warming procedure
When cutting the insulation, cut out squares with an allowance of 50 mm in width on all sides. So the mineral wool will fit tightly, without gaps and gaps.
Seal the joints between the post and the mat with narrow double-folded strips of mineral wool. You can lay them with your hands, but it will be more convenient to use a screwdriver.
The best option would be a double layer of mineral wool between the posts, plus one more layer on top. In this case, the risk of cold bridges will be reduced to zero.
The insulation is attached to a flat surface with special glue, and disc-shaped plastic dowels can be used as additional fixation.
Steam and waterproofing
A vapor barrier material must be placed under the inner wall cladding of a frame house. A waterproofing film is laid over the insulation under the outer skin to protect the structure from wind and moisture.
The vapor barrier prevents wet vapors from escaping. If we neglect this element, steam will condense inside the "cake" and penetrate into the insulation, which will eventually lead to a deterioration in its properties and an increase in heating costs. Attention! If you decide to use ecowool or polyurethane foam as insulation, vapor barrier will be superfluous.
When erecting frame structures, penofol is usually used as a vapor barrier material, and glassine or membrane films for waterproofing. They need to be overlapped and fixed with a construction stapler. The joints and abutments are glued with a special self-adhesive tape.
Read about the independent construction of a frame house.
Fine finishing
The wall cake is sheathed with finishing materials on both sides. Since the wall of a frame house is perfectly flat, almost any available coating can be used to finish it. For the exterior decoration of country houses, wooden or plastic materials are usually used:
- lining
- imitation of a bar (log)
- vinyl siding
Often, when finishing the facade on their own, the owners of country houses do not pay attention to the recommendations of specialists and mount the cladding directly to the frame. Such a solution is quite viable if the house is operated exclusively in the summer, but if you live in such a house in the winter for at least a week, condensation will begin to accumulate under the cladding, causing double harm - to destroy the wood and moisturize the insulation.
In order to avoid such consequences and in order to initially lay the possibility of operating the house all year round, the facade must be made ventilated. To do this, bars 30-40 mm thick are nailed over the entire surface of the frame, and cladding is already laid on them. The main difficulty here is the exact casting of the foundation so that it does not interfere with the penetration of air into the ventilation gap. Interior finishing is usually done with plasterboard, fiberboard or clapboard.
The walls of frame houses have an ideal structure for insulating interiors, therefore, having assembled a wall cake according to all the rules, you will get a warm, cozy and comfortable home.
Read on for the perfect exterior finish.
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Warm, comfortable, modern - the frame will be so provided that it is built according to all the rules. Particular attention should be paid to the correct pie of the frame wall. The users of the site argue about what should be, what materials can be taken to replace those already familiar to us.
We list the main mistakes that some make when constructing a frame wall:
- do not take into account the possibility of a dew point;
- do not install vapor barrier material;
- install a vapor barrier on both sides of the insulation;
- do not glue the joints of the vapor barrier;
- do not mount the windscreen or install it under the slab sheathing.
There is only one way to avoid these mistakes: to use reliable pie schemes that have been worked out over the years.
1. Neglecting vapor barrier and wind protection
Many novice developers do not think about what processes can occur inside the wall. The insulation starts to get wet, and the frame racks become moldy and rot. This is due to the fact that the wind protection is not installed, or the sequence of the layers of the wall cake is disrupted.
Wall cake in a frame house:
In the opinion Linkozavr, the classic cake of the frame wall, (from the inside - out) is:
1. Drywall - as a base layer for interior decoration.
2. Vapor barrier.
3. Insulation (mineral wool).
4. OSB. Layers of a frame house
5. Wind protection.
6. Exterior finish: air-gap siding on counter grill, etc.
The layers in a frame house should be located exactly like this, it is impossible to replace this sequence with another, and each element performs a strictly defined function.
Denis Reznichenko, Moscow(nickname on the forum silent):
- The vapor barrier is installed from the inside, because it limits the flow of moisture into the wall. Wind protection is always placed outside, because it prevents the wind from blowing through the thermal insulation, protects it from precipitation and allows excess moisture to escape.
Wall cake of a frame house.
To understand the need for high-quality vapor barrier, you need to understand the term "dew point".
Dew point is a condition in which, under the influence of low temperature, water vapor contained in the air begins to condense, forming water droplets.
The appearance of the dew point depends on:
- air temperature (inside and outside the room);
- relative humidity (indoor and outdoor).
The higher the relative humidity, the higher the dew point temperature.
When moisture condensation occurs, the following occurs:
- the insulation gets wet and loses its thermal insulation properties;
- the wall begins to freeze;
- frame boards are moldy and rot.
2. Incorrectly installed vapor barrier
The most common mistake in the construction of a frame is an incorrectly mounted vapor barrier. Because of this, moisture passes unhindered into the insulation.
Roracotta:
- The easiest and cheapest way is to use ordinary high-density polyethylene, not less than 200 microns, as a vapor barrier.
You can install a vapor barrier in three steps:
1. Polyethylene is mounted with an overlap between rolls, about 15 centimeters in each direction.
2. Polyethylene beats with a stapler on the racks, with a step between the staples of 30-40 cm.
3. All joints are carefully glued with bituminous glue. If the joints do not overlap, then they must be glued with a special adhesive tape.
Foil insulation can be used as a vapor barrier. This, due to the foil layer, does not allow steam to penetrate into the insulation. Everything the joints are glued with butyl rubber tape.
Frame house pie with OSB outside
The classic pie of a frame wall involves the installation of a power cladding - OSB slabs outside the house. In addition to such a scheme, another one is also used - the so-called "inverted" frame, where the load-bearing sheathing is oriented towards the inside of the house. Let's see why this option is being done.
The OSB slab is low vapor permeable, and the classical one violates the main principle of building a frame structure - vapor permeability should increase from the inside to the outside.
Dmitry1000:
- In my opinion, even if I make an internal vapor barrier, dew will still fall out in the insulation, because from the inside of the house there is a vapor barrier, and from the outside there is OSB, and the moisture trapped in the insulation simply has nowhere to go.
Let's see if this is actually correct.
Paulspb suggests the following calculation:
- The total generation of water vapor in a house with an area of 120 sq. m, with a family of three, will be - 6320 g / day. With a ceiling height of a one-story house of 2.8 m, the volume of the house is approximately 336 m3, the amount of "generated" moisture, that is, remaining in the air after ventilation, will be 2670 g, or 7.95 g / m3.
Now let's imagine it's winter outside and -10. At 100% humidity, the air contains 2.37 g / m3 of water. There is much more moisture inside the house - about 10.32 g / m3. This leads to the movement of steam from the inside out through the building envelope.
Paulspb:
- Water vapor will escape through the walls and ceiling, the total area of which is about 240 sq. M.
In this case, 10.9 g of water should pass through 1 square meter of surface per day.
An OSB slab with a thickness of 20 mm passes 5.39 g of steam per day through 1 square meter. Slab in 12 mm - 8.98 g of steam, in 10 mm - 10.8 g.
OSB with a thickness of 9 - 12 mm has a low vapor permeability. OSB with a thickness of 18 mm and above is practically vapor tight.
Since outdoor structures most often try to sheathe OSB with a thickness of 9 or 12 mm, moisture will gradually come out.
The classic correct pie for the wireframe.
3. Correct frame house wall: breathable.
You can often hear the expression: "breathing" frame walls, i.e. those that let steam in both directions and regulate the air exchange in the room.
User with nickname Vitla offers a pie like this (from the inside out):
1. Drywall.
3. Thermal insulation
4. Wind and moisture protection.
5. Ventzazor.
6. Exterior decoration.
- The load-bearing sheathing must be fixed from the inside of the house. Suitable for this purpose: OSB, plywood, fiberboard, or you can replace them with a grooved board. GKL takes excess moisture from the room, and, if necessary, gives it back. That is, this kind of cake turns out to be "breathing", which is important for a comfortable stay in the house.
Correct pie of a frame wall with OSB cladding
Let's figure out whether such a scheme has the right to life
“There are no“ breathing ”walls. My advice is to do a standard assembly and a reliable vapor barrier.
Correct pie of the frame wall
Roracotta:
- Any correct frame needs a reliable vapor barrier.
Air exchange in the frame is provided by ventilation, not by "breathing" structures!
In addition, the load-bearing OSB sheathing installed from the inside without additional vapor barrier allows steam to pass through.
Because OSB is mounted with a small gap between the sheets (3-5 mm), then without additional vapor barrier, moisture-saturated steam will enter the insulation through this gap.
Frame house pie with osb
When installing OSB from the inside, it is difficult to insulate an open wall in the rain or in winter. The slab, installed outside, additionally connects the floors of the first and second floors, the frame posts and acts as a load-bearing element.
4. Pie of a frame house with OSB outside - Western approach
Roracotta:
- In Canada, it is unprofitable to insulate walls by laying fiberglass wadded insulation with a thickness of more than 150 mm.
They do this: lay mineral wool 15 cm thick, and outside, on the OSB, attach foam plastic 50-100 mm thick.
Thus, the cold bridges are completely eliminated, and a very warm structure is obtained.
- With such insulation, a special drainage membrane is laid between the OSB and the foam.
It is not worth using extruded polystyrene foam as an additional external insulation. Due to its almost zero vapor permeability, EPS locks moisture inside. This can lead to a dew point on the inside of such a heater.
Options for the wall design of a frame house without OSB
In the Scandinavian countries, another option is used, and the pie (outside - in) is as follows:
1. Facade gypsum board or windproof film.
2. Racks of the frame, filled with insulation.
3. Vapor barrier
4. GKL on the crate.
An interesting point: neither OSB boards nor plywood to replace it as a power frame cladding in such a pie are used, and all communications are carried out in an air gap between drywall and vapor barrier.
Porcupine:
- In Finland, in such a pie of a frame house, the replacement of OSB is basalt wool. A layer of vapor barrier is always put in the construction of the cake! Conventional plastic wrap is commonly used.
The inner lining of the frame should be less vapor permeable than the outer one.
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