Laying is an obligatory stage in the arrangement of any local area, because paths make the area not only more comfortable, but also aesthetically pleasing. For these purposes, you can use the most different materials, but most often the choice falls on paving slabs. There is nothing surprising here: it has a lot of advantages, and the technology for laying the material is so accessible that literally anyone can do it with their own hands. To correctly lay the path and thereby improve the area of the dacha, you only need to follow the step-by-step instructions - we suggest you read them further.
Why choose paving slabs
So that you have no doubt about the advisability of using this material to create country paths, let’s consider the main advantages:
- A large selection of shapes, shades, as well as textures - tiles make it possible to implement any design idea and create a harmonious landscape ensemble.
- Ease of use – on paths made of paving slabs no puddles remain, since all excess moisture leaves through the tile seams.
Paving slabs are convenient and durable
- Durability - the material does not deform under constant impact scorching sun, precipitation and sudden temperature changes. In addition, the tiles are durable and low abrasion, so they can withstand long-term intensive use - over 15 years. But even if some area of the coating is damaged, it can always be restored by replacing several tiles.
- Ease of installation - laying a path will not be difficult even for those who have never dealt with such landscaping work. To make sure of this, consider the technology of laying tiles step by step.
Stage 1: Selecting a pattern for laying tiles
First of all, you need to decide how you will lay the tiles - the shape, size and amount of material for the path depends on this.
The most common schemes:
- Classic ordering is the simplest installation method, which involves placing paving slabs one after another. Most often, square or rectangular elements are used - they are easier to fit together.
Advice. To give such a rather simple track originality, you can combine different colors and tile textures.
- With an offset - one more traditional way laying: tiles are placed so that their joints do not coincide. The combination is actively encouraged here different colors and textures, but the shape of the elements must be uniform.
- Herringbone - laying at an angle of 45 or 90 degrees. Rectangular or shaped elements can be used. Complex option herringbones - wickerwork: paving slabs are also laid at an angle, but alternating - lengthwise and crosswise. To make the pattern clear, it is recommended to use only two colors.
Paths made of paving slabs look very modern and beautiful
- Chess - laying square two-color tiles in a checkerboard pattern. Although this option is simple to implement, due to the play of colors it looks very impressive.
- Geometry - various geometric patterns are formed from tiles: squares, rhombuses, zigzags, etc. The composition is created by using elements of different colors, but the same shape.
Stage 2: Preparation of materials and tools
When you decide on the installation scheme, you can go to buy tiles from hardware store. When choosing a product, focus not only on its design, but also on performance indicators: slip level, maximum permissible weight loads, processing capabilities (trimming, painting).
Advice. To correctly determine the number of tiles, it is better to draw up a simple plan diagram in advance: indicate the shape and dimensions of the planned path. Subsequently, taking into account the area of the working area and the dimensions of a particular tile, you can easily calculate the required volume of material.
In addition to the paving slabs themselves, you will also need:
- dry cement;
- sand;
- fine crushed stone or gravel;
- small pegs - wooden or metal;
- mallet - rubber or wooden;
- Master OK;
Before laying tiles, level the surface
- level;
- tile knife;
- tamping;
- profile;
- geotextiles;
- twine.
Stage 3: Laying on a concrete base or sand bed
A properly prepared base is a guarantee of successful installation country path, so this stage needs to be thought through in detail. The first step is to mark the future path: mark its boundaries, drive pegs around the perimeter and connect them with twine.
Advice. If on site clay soil, take care of drainage: make longitudinal and transverse slopes in the resulting trench so that moisture flows to the edges.
Now you need to decide the most important question: on what kind of base will you lay the tiles? There are two options:
- Sand pillow. First, you need to lay a layer of sand on the ground - 5-10 cm in height. Compact it and moisten it. Lay geotextiles on top. Then lay a layer of crushed stone or gravel - also 5-10 cm in height. Walk along the base with a tamper and add up to 5 cm more sand. After this, perform the final moistening and compaction of the pillow. This base option is only suitable for narrow and short paths.
- Concrete base. To begin, fill the trenches with a layer of sand - about 5 cm. Moisten and compact the base. Then cook cement mixture: 1 part cement and 3 parts sand. Fill the trench with the resulting composition - the layer should be 4-5 cm. Be sure to level the concrete with a trowel. This base option is more durable than the first, so it is suitable for paths of any size.
Laying tiles on a sand bed
Stage 4: Tile laying technology
The last stage is the direct construction of the path from paving slabs. You only need to start laying from yourself - this way you will not deform the prepared base. According to the chosen pattern, install the first tile, adjust its position and fix it to the base, carefully tapping it with a mallet.
Focusing on the first element, lay the entire track, keeping gaps of 2 mm. Tamp each tile with a mallet so that it “sits” firmly into the base. Periodically check the height of the covering - if you notice that some element is laid unevenly, use a trowel to carefully lift it, adjust the position and re-fix it on the track.
After the paving slabs have been laid, fill the seams with either sand or a dry cement-sand composition. Then remove excess filler and thoroughly moisten the gaps. The seams should be tight, since they will bear part of the load that the track will take on.
Advice. To fill the joints, use only clean sand that does not contain any organic impurities, so that vegetation does not soon appear between the tiles.
You can walk on the paved path only 2-3 days after its installation.
Laying paving slabs is a relatively inexpensive but effective way to improve local area. As you can see, arranging paths does not require professional skills or complex tools - it’s quite possible to make paths with your own hands. So carefully study the step-by-step installation instructions and you can safely get to work.
How to lay paving slabs: video
Paving slabs at the dacha: photo
Paths made of paving slabs and paving stones are deservedly popular among home craftsmen. The use of such a sidewalk represents a good opportunity to obtain original design, reasonable price and reliable coverage. Laying paving slabs with your own hands is not particularly difficult and can be done without special experience.
To choose a specific method of laying paving stones, you should study the composition of the soil and the landscape features of your site, and familiarize yourself with the offer of paving elements in your region. You should also evaluate the operating conditions of the coating and compare your wishes with your budget.
Conditions for installing paving stones
Usually the soil on the site has normal bearing capacity and is sandy loam, loam or gravel. In this case, paving is done without the use of cement mortar and concrete. In the case when we're talking about In case of a recently filled area, as well as clayey or silty soil, to ensure a uniform load on the ground, it is necessary to make an additional concrete base.
Before construction starts sidewalk paths With your own hands, on an area with difficult terrain, you first need to equip the terraces using or, and then begin installing the covering.
The organic layer should not remain under the tiles, as it rots and shrinks. For this reason, when preparing the base for a path, fertile soil is removed and removed from those areas where pedestrian pavement is planned.
In this case, an excessively deep trench can be filled with gravel. The roots of bushes and trees can disrupt the path, so they are either uprooted or a path is planned at a distance of 3m from them.
Rules for laying sidewalks made of tiles and paving stones
Scheme for choosing paving stones according to operating conditions The tile itself is selected based on the appearance and required reliability of the coating. How thick the paving stones can be can be easily determined in accordance with the above diagram. can be studied in a separate article.
Different kinds paving stones Note that in terms of the quality of production, paving slabs can be vibro-cast, hyper-pressed or vibro-pressed. Vibro-cast paving elements have complex configuration and are inexpensive. These products are well suited for garden paths.
Hyper-pressed paving stones are more expensive and noticeably stronger. This coating will withstand car wheels.
Testing paving elements is quite simple: durable tiles produce ringing sound upon impact, and a vibro-cast one is deaf.
Decorative elements can be coated with dye on top, which allows abrasion of the decorative layer. Elements painted in the mass will never lose their color.
In order to make a path, you will need a curb stone. You can purchase it or in accordance with our recommendations.
It is better to use crushed stone of fraction 20-40 as underlying material for car parks, while size 5-20 is suitable for pedestrian paths. When laying paving slabs, you will need the following list of tools.
Marking and planning of the coverage area
Curvilinear and radius shapes of the paths lead to a large number cutting tiles increases the cost and duration of paving. For this reason, they are used only when necessary.
To dig a trench, uneven areas of the surface are drawn on the ground or marked with sand. Level paths are marked with cord and pegs. When planning, do not forget to take into account curbs and elements of the drainage system.
When planning and marking pavements for normal drainage, the following slopes must be provided:
- 1-2 degrees across footpaths;
- 3-4 degrees along paths and on platforms;
- 3-7 degrees when using paving stones on the blind area of buildings.
According to the completed markings for the pedestrian path, they dig a trench with a depth of at least 20 cm. At the location of the curb, the depth of the groove will be at least 25 cm.
We install curbstones
Installing curbstones for paving stone walkways If there is no curb, the paving stone path will fall apart. The curb stone can be installed either above the walkway or flush with it. When placing water drainage trays on the surface, it is convenient to arrange them next to the path fence.
Various options border organization We have prepared step-by-step instructions on how to do it yourself. There may be a situation where installing a curb stone is unacceptable. In this situation, one or two extreme paving elements on the path are placed on cement mortar, prepared in a ratio of 1:3, in accordance with the above scheme.
We provide drainage and underlying layer
It is obvious that during rain some of the moisture penetrates into the cracks between the paving elements. Thus, to drain water and protect the coating from destruction, it is necessary to provide a drainage underlying layer.
Scheme for laying paving stones on a mixture of cement and sand Ideally, the base for water drainage should be arranged in accordance with the diagram shown. With this technology, a leveling layer of sand 20 mm thick is poured onto flat and compacted soil, which protects the geotextile from damage. Geotextile does not allow mixing of soil and crushed stone.
This is followed by a layer of crushed stone of at least 70 mm, which is compacted with a tamper until the top stones do not move when moving. Depending on the load, professionals require laying a layer of crushed stone up to 30 cm in car parks.
A 20mm leveling layer of sand is again placed on top of the crushed stone. Its task is to protect another sheet of geotextile, which will prevent crushed stone and garter (a mixture of cement and sand in a ratio of 1:5) from mixing.
Often, builders neglect to lay geotextiles, leveling layers of sand and even crushed stone. A simplified version of the foundation arrangement is allowed for narrow paths in the country. Obviously, appearance the paving, of course, will not be affected. At the same time, everyone is free to check for themselves how long the coating will last.
Paving with paving stones
According to the technology, the paving stones should be laid on a paving stone (a dry mixture of cement and sand in a ratio of 1:5). There is an opinion that the presence of cement only interferes with the repair of the coating.
It is reasonable to assume: since cement interferes with repairs, it means the path is stronger. However, in most cases, the tiles are placed on regular sand. In difficult operating conditions, paving stones are laid on a cement-sand mortar.
When building a path, curbs are beacons for laying crushed stone and sand. In this case, a rule is prepared from the board, as in the photo, with cut out corners, through which the backfilled material is stretched for leveling.
When laying paving stones on large areas First, a cast-off of twine and pegs are installed, which determine the level of coverage. Beacons from a pipe, angle or channel are laid out on the ground relative to the twine. In this case, the sand is leveled using the beacon rule.
The filling with crushed stone is carried out 1-2 cm above the planned level and is compacted to a state in which the pebbles on top are not dislodged by shoes. The sand is also placed 1-2 cm higher, slightly moistened with a garden watering can and compacted until there are no traces left on it when walking.
At the beginning of the process, entire paving stone elements are placed on a flat sand surface in accordance with the pattern. The laying starts from the corner, from the curb. The paving surface is controlled by the rule and adjusted with a rubber hammer. The failed elements can be taken out, sand added and put back in place.
The paving stones are not laid out in rows, but diagonally. In this case, it is easier to control the coating surface.
In those places where a whole tile does not fit, it is trimmed with a grinder. It is better to use a diamond blade and be sure to use the most important tool - safety glasses.
You can lay rectangular elements on winding sections yourself in accordance with the following order:
- the paving stones are placed with the long side along the covering;
- laying begins from the inner radius;
- paving elements in adjacent rows are laid offset;
- the seams across the track are made in the form of a wedge.
When paving radius areas with tiles of complex shape, the seams are placed at an angle of 30-45-60 degrees to the direction of movement. After filling the coating with whole elements vacant plots covered with cut paving stones.
As the installation of all paving elements is completed, the seams between them are filled with sand. It is convenient to use a janitor's tool: a broom or brush.
Laying paving stones on concrete: concreting and reinforcement
Let us remind you that when constructing paths in the courtyard of a private house with problematic soil (fresh soil, clay, dusty sand), the technology of laying paving stones on concrete base. It is also sometimes necessary to decorate an existing concrete base with tiles. In this case, you can lay the coating on gritsovka, cement mortar or tile adhesive.
When constructing a walkway with a concrete base, it is important to understand that concrete slab together with the borders they form a kind of trough in which moisture can accumulate. This can lead to swelling and cracking of the coating. If the paving elements are laid on tile adhesive, then penetration and accumulation of moisture will not occur.
Otherwise, drainage must be provided around the perimeter of the coating. However, in practice, trays are installed along the curb to drain water and no attention is paid to this circumstance, considering that wet sand under the influence of frost will move evenly with the coating without disturbing it.
Scheme for laying paving stones on concrete using tile adhesive Based on the layout of the pedestrian path, the depth of the pit when laying tiles with glue will be at least 250mm. When choosing a method of paving paving stones with paving stones or sand, you will need to add at least another 50mm. For a site under a car, the layer of sand and crushed stone will have to be increased, and the trench, accordingly, will need to be dug deeper.
In the designated diagram thin layer sand and geotextile do not allow cement laitance to escape from concrete into crushed stone. Paths in the country can only be reinforced with wire mesh located at the top of the concrete to protect against frost heaving.
For car parks, you will need another layer of reinforcement with a diameter of 6-8mm, located at the bottom of the concrete. Meshes of reinforcement are laid with the intersection of at least one cell. To install reinforcement on the right level linings made of pebbles will be required.
To protect against destruction, concrete paths are installed every 3-5 m. expansion joints. For this purpose, gaskets made of boards or 2 layers of rolled waterproofing can be placed in the solution.
Depending on the temperature, paving can begin 1-2 weeks after laying the concrete. The installation of paving slabs can be done using grout, as well as cement mortar or tile adhesive. We discussed earlier how to lay paving stones on a mixture of cement and sand.
Installation of tiles on mortar
Laying paving stones with your own hands can be done using a solution of cement and sand in a ratio of 1:3. With this paving method, the recommended layer thickness is 20-30mm. The mixture hardens quite slowly, and even an inexperienced master will be able to lay out a smooth coating surface using the rules and level.
First, a whole tile is laid out on the concrete in accordance with the pattern. Uncoated areas are cleaned of mortar with a trowel or spatula. After the masonry has hardened, the tiles are cut and laid on the mortar in the remaining areas. Upon completion of the work, the gaps between the paving elements are filled with grout or sand and moistened with water.
Paving slabs are reliable, quality material, which compares favorably with its direct competitors - asphalt and paving stones - in ease of installation and dismantling, environmental friendliness and price.
Lots of styling options and a wide range of paving slabs will allow you to decorate the site to your taste, completely preserving its individuality through the use of various patterns and color schemes. High-quality laying of paving slabs largely determines not only the architectural appearance of the site, but also the durability of the paved surfaces. The technology of laying in a small area is not particularly difficult, therefore, after familiarizing yourself with the progress of work and preparing everything necessary materials, you can safely proceed to self-installation.
What tools and materials will be needed for masonry
Trowel, metal or wooden stakes, cord, building level, rubber mallet, wooden mallet, watering hose with diffuser, rake, broom, profile, manual tamper, channel, sand, crushed stone fraction 10-20, 20-50 or gravel, cement M400, M500 or dry plaster mixture, geotextiles, paving slabs for paths with a thickness of 50-60 mm, for parking lots - 70-80, curb stone.
Technology for laying paving slabs step by step
Planning
At this stage, you should decide on the future site for laying paving slabs with your own hands and create a plan drawing for it. We choose from the existing assortment required types figured paving elements, selecting a laying scheme and color mosaic. We plot the dimensions of the area on the created plan-drawing and, based on this, calculate required amount paving slabs and the volume of materials for the base: sand, crushed stone or gravel, cement.
Marking paths and platforms
Using a tape measure, wooden or metal pegs, cord or construction twine, we mark the paths and area for laying tiles. Be sure to walk through the marked area to check the ease of location and use. If necessary, we make appropriate adjustments.
Preparing the base
It is a carefully prepared base that guarantees the quality of laying paving slabs, so this stage of work should be approached with special attention. A properly made base will not allow the path or site to sag over time, thereby ensuring the durability of the coating.
First of all, we remove the old covering, if there was one, and remove the turf to a depth of 15-20 cm. We make sure that there are no roots or flying plant seeds left. Although water may seep into cracks, it is best to plan for water drainage. If the soil is very clayey, it is advisable to install drainage in the deepest part of the trench. In order for water to flow to the edges, we make transverse and longitudinal slopes. Regardless of whether the tiles are laid on a liquid mortar, dry mixture or sand, a crushed stone or sand cushion is always used as the base. To strengthen the base, in some cases sand and gravel mixture can also be done concrete screed.
First of all, we lay and compact crushed stone or gravel at the same level and at the same height. On a compacted base, we construct an intermediate layer of sand, in a compacted state the thickness of which should be 3-5 cm and be such that the paving slabs before compaction rise from the desired height of the coating by about 1 cm. Geotextiles can be laid between the layer of crushed stone and sand, which will provide free flow of water, but will not allow sand to spill into the crushed stone layer, making the base stronger and more durable. In non-heaving soil without vehicle access, it is permissible to fill the covered surface with slightly moistened coarse sand 10-15 cm thick, without the use of crushed stone. The layer of sand is abundantly wetted with water. Tamping on a sunny day is carried out approximately after two to three hours, and in cloudy weather the next day.
As the top laying layer, you can use a ready-made dry mixture or a self-prepared cement-sand mixture in a ratio of 1 to 3. Fill the mixture with a layer of 3-4 cm. To make it easier to maintain the same thickness over the entire area, you can use tube guides. Use a rake to evenly distribute the mixture over the marked area. Using a channel we make a screed until flat surface.
Laying tiles
The tiles should be laid away from you so as not to disturb the prepared surface. It is advisable to lay it diagonally, each new tiles laying it in such a way that it adjoins the previous one as closely as possible, which will help to avoid increasing the thickness of the seams. A gap of 1-2 mm between the tiles for subsequent filling with dry mixture or sand is quite enough to create a durable and reliable coating. We compact the laid tiles with a wooden mallet. If the tile does not lie quite evenly, carefully place sand under it with a trowel and level it again with a tamper. After installation is completed, we level the protruding paving elements with a rubber hammer to the building level.
If the planned paths and platforms have uneven shapes or shaped elements are used, the tiles will have to be cut, but this should be started only after laying all the intact tiles. Paving slabs are cut with a special knife or an ordinary grinder with disc for concrete. Before cutting, be sure to apply the tiles to the future installation location and draw a line along which we will cut off the excess parts. Installing a pedestrian curb will help to give the site or path an exact geometric shape and evenly fill in unfinished areas with tiles cut to shape. To install a border along the edges of a tiled area, using a tensioned cord, we dig a trench of the required size and depth so that the top of the tile exceeds the top of the border by the height of the chamfer. We expose the curb to M100 liquid solution. We spill the sides of the curb with M100 solution and fill them with sand.
Having laid the tiles, we check the area for bulges and irregularities. Having eliminated the defects, sprinkle all the seams with a dry cement-sand mixture, sweep away the excess and use a hose with a sprayer to thoroughly moisten the mixture in the gaps. If the mixture in the seams has sagged significantly, pour a little more mixture into the gaps between the paving slabs. This is very important point, since sand correctly distributed along the joints will take on the loads that fall on the surfaces of adjacent tiles, making the coating harder and more reliable. The sand that is used to prepare a dry mixture to fill the gaps between the slabs must be clean, without organic impurities and salts that can cause the appearance of vegetation. It is advisable to walk on a paved path no earlier than 2-3 days after laying the tiles.
Like any other covering, paving slabs require appropriate care. To keep it pleasing to the eye, it should be cleaned regularly. Gray tiles are less demanding to maintain, but colored tiles will have to be washed from time to time. IN winter time Do not use metal tools to remove snow and ice from tiles. Metal crowbars and shovels can damage the glossy surface of the tiles. To prevent erosion of the tile surface, it is strictly forbidden to sprinkle paths with salt-containing abrasive mixtures. You can replace them with a clean one river sand. Also, paving slabs are not friendly with varnishes, paints, etc. chemicals.
How to lay paving slabs: laying methods
How the paths and areas laid out with paving slabs will look on the site depends solely on your imagination and skill, because even the same elements can be used in different variations.
Designing paths or platforms in a dacha or local area will cost much less if you do all the work yourself. After all, laying paving slabs with your own hands is not difficult and requires minimum quantity time.
Materials and tools
To lay the tiles you will need:The tiles themselves: to determine the required quantity square meters, you need to multiply the length of the path or future site by its width;
Sand: even for small area you will need at least a couple of tons;
Cement M400-500;
Elastic cord;
Construction rule (a tool for leveling the surface) or long enough and perfectly level wooden beam or metal strip;
Bubble or laser level;
Trowel for laying mortar;
Mallet (hammer with a wooden or rubber head);
Manual or electric rammer;
Wooden or metal stakes;
Border tiles, they can be replaced with a metal pipe or I-beam (profile with a cross-section in the shape of “H”);
Which tile to choose?
Main types street tiles are:stamped (vibro-pressed): rougher, has a huge margin of safety, used mainly in public places, including for the design of parking lots; during its production, the sand-cement mass is subjected to impact pressing using special hammers;
Vibropressed paving slabs
vibratory casting (vibrocasting): costs a little more, is more attractive in appearance, due to its smoothness it is easier to clean from dirt and snow, can have all sorts of shapes and rich, bright colors; tolerates shock and temperature changes worse; During manufacturing, the sand-cement mass is pressed due to continuous vibration.
Vibrocast tiles
Thickness different types paving stones can vary from 20 to 60 mm. Thin tiles It is laid mainly on pedestrian paths of private houses and playgrounds. In the area adjacent to the house, where the intensity of its use is higher, it is better to use 40-45 mm tiles. In places where cars pass near garages, it is advisable to lay durable 60mm tiles.
Advice. Paving stones of complex shapes are more difficult to lay, and there will be much more waste after cutting.
Preliminary work
Before installation begins, the size and location of the paths and deck should be determined. All communications must be laid in advance.Targeted areas level out: debris is removed from elevated areas, excess soil, depressions and holes are filled, then spilled with water, leveled with a rake and thoroughly compacted. It is advisable to carry out this entire procedure in advance to allow the earth to settle and compact.
In the areas of the future path or platform, stakes are driven in and an elastic cord is pulled between them. Where the path passes, it is necessary to provide recess 20-30 cm for laying the sand cushion and the tile itself.
To prevent water from stagnating on the paths, it is necessary to provide a slight longitudinal or transverse slope of several degrees, preferably towards the street. To determine the level of slope, from zero mark Before the end of the path or platform, pegs are driven in, between which a cord or strong elastic thread is pulled. The horizontality of its location is regulated by the building level.
Sand or crushed stone cushion
Such a pillow will serve as drainage - excess water will seep into the ground through a layer of sand or crushed stone. To protect against weeds, sand is laid before filling geotextiles.To arrange the cushion, sand or crushed stone is poured into a prepared 20-30 cm depression, leveled with a rake, spilled with water and compacted with a tamper. To prevent the tiles from loosening and the path from creeping, the edges of the path are laid before backfilling. border of metal pipes , I-beams or curb tiles. To strengthen it, it can be fixed to a concrete solution.
Laying and compacting the pillow
Laying tiles on mortar
Paving slabs are laid both on a dry mixture and on a solution. Concrete base It is better to use in areas with high traffic and vehicle traffic, as well as in the presence of moving loose soil. On denser soil and for filling transition paths, it is quite possible to use dry sand-cement pad.When laying on a mortar, the concrete base is first prepared:
1. Cement M400-500 and sifted sand in a ratio of 3.5:1 are first mixed, and then water is added so that the mixture is not too liquid and does not flow off the trowel. It should not stick to the walls of the container in which the mixture was mixed. For 3.5 buckets of sand you will need a bucket of cement and about 7.5 liters of water.
2. The solution is poured onto the pillow in an even layer about 13 cm thick.
3. Laying paving slabs should begin only after the concrete has completely dried. This will take at least 3 days.
Advice. When arranging access roads to the garage, before pouring the concrete base, lay a reinforcing mesh on the crushed stone.
Preparing the concrete base
After the concrete base is completely strengthened, we begin laying the tiles:
1. It is laid out strictly along a stretched cord, starting from the curb.
2. If desired, you can add any coloring pigment and adhesive composition to the mortar for laying tiles to increase the strength of concrete.
3. To ensure that all seams are the same, it is advisable to place special plastic crosses.
4. Each tile must be slightly moved in place to distribute the solution, and then carefully knocked into place using a mallet.
5. Trimming and adjusting individual tiles is done at the end, when you are completely sure that all the tiles are laid in order in the right order. Cutting is done grinder with diamond blade.
6. To make the dried seams visually attractive in the future, they can be sanded.
Laying on mortar
Dry laying
Paving slabs can also be laid on a dry mixture of concrete and sand without adding water. Also, as in the previous case, it should be located on a cushion of crushed stone.1. You can stir the mixture directly on the ground. First, sand is poured (preferably slightly damp), then cement is constantly mixed into it.
2. The prepared mixture is evenly scattered over the entire surface of the path or platform and thoroughly compacted with a tamper.
Tamping the mixture
3. A border is laid along the stretched strings, steel pipes or I-beam.
4. Using the rule or any smooth and long lath, the dry mixture is ideally leveled over the surface.
To press the tiles in, tap them with a mallet.
6. Lay the tiles away from you. You will move further along the already laid tiles.
7. If the tile does not lie too smoothly, you can remove it and add a layer of mortar.
The tiles are laid away from you
8. If laying is not done on the same day, so that the cement does not harden on the surface under the influence of moisture, the prepared path must be swept after each working day. Naturally, in this case there is no need to mix a lot of mortar - if the mixture is already poured, the area is completely filled with tiles.
9. If the tiles are laid without mortar, upon completion of the work the seams are filled up sand-cement mixture , leveled and spilled with water.
10. Since garage doors the load on the paving stones will be maximum, it is better to lay it not on a dry mixture, for cement mortar.
The technology of laying decorative paving slabs on sand with your own hands has a number of nuances, knowing which you can do all the work easily and without serious mistakes. Thanks to this material, you can create a unique coating in a parking lot, sidewalk or garden. Let's figure out what it is this technology.
Most often, paving slabs are laid on a dry cement-sand mixture
Types of paving slabs
Before considering the technology of laying tiles with your own hands, you need to find out what types of material are used for finishing sidewalks and areas. Available today great amount variations of products, first of all, they differ in shape, the most popular are:
- paving stones;
- clover;
- scales;
- fleece;
- wave;
- honeycomb;
- flower;
- Gzhelka.
Main types of paving slabs
Production technology also affects the final result. According to the manufacturing method, tiles can be divided into two types:
- Vibropressed. The machine feeds the mass into the mold, then compresses it and vibrates under pressure, after which the matrix is removed and the tile is left to dry.
- Vibrocast. The liquid solution is poured into the mold, vibrated for a certain time and dried.
You can use both approaches yourself. At the same time, if you make the solution yourself, it is important to maintain the proportions and use suitable raw materials.
Homemade tiles will only be of adequate quality if good components and a vibrating installation are used to compact the liquid mass.
Soil preparation
Before laying paving slabs, you need to prepare work area. The surface must meet certain requirements. If you do the work yourself, you need to consider the following nuances:
- Deepening. The tile is laid in the recess, but it should protrude 3-4 cm above the ground.
- Dense soil. To do this, the soil is thoroughly compacted.
- Smooth surface. It is necessary to perfectly level the area for installation.
- Providing drainage. This condition is met in two ways. Firstly, a sand and gravel substrate is installed, and secondly, you need to provide a slight slope of about 5 degrees per meter.
Before you start laying paving slabs on sand, you need to carry out a number of works to prepare the soil. Let's look at how to do it yourself. First you need to remove the top layer of soil, thanks to this you can level out all the unevenness, compact the soil and prepare a sand and gravel bed. The depth of the site depends on its purpose; for sidewalks, on average, 20 cm will be enough, and for car entrances and parking lots, you need to add another 7-10 cm.
After you dig a hole, you need to compact the soil. To do this, wet it with a spray hose and walk it with a tamper. This procedure will prevent the site from subsiding over time.
The base for laying tiles must be leveled and compacted
Installation of curbs and drains
Also, before you start laying paving slabs on sand, you need to take care of installing limiters, that is, curbs. They are placed along the entire perimeter of the sidewalk. If you do not install them, most likely, over time, your tiles will shift and the sidewalk will simply “pull apart” to the sides. To install them yourself, you need to dig a trench along the site. Its depth should be a little greater. Crushed stone is placed at the bottom for support and covered with sand to compact the voids. Then you need to set up the curbs, keeping them level.
To fix the elements, a concrete solution is prepared based on cement, sand and screenings. Use it to fill a trench with curbs. After drying, the spacers and clamps are removed, and the trench is filled with earth to the desired level.
Before laying the tiles, curbs are installed along the entire perimeter of the site
Additionally, it is necessary to provide for the installation of a water drain. He is laid with inside sidewalk along the curb. It is in his direction that the slope of the site should go.
sand cushion
In order to lay the tile itself, this technology involves the use of gravel and sand as a substrate. First of all, you need to fill the soil with sand. The bottom layer does not matter in terms of the quality of raw materials. Crushed stone is poured on top of the sand in a layer of approximately 15-20 cm, it allows you to evenly distribute the load over the sidewalk area and ensures the outflow of water. To fill the voids, additional sand is poured.
The top layer will act as a fixative, so it is important to know what kind of sand is needed for paving slabs. The best option is a material with fine particles, it will fill all the cracks, but it is important to clean it of impurities. The area should be sprinkled with water and wait until the materials dry.
After leveling the surface, fill in the working “cushion”. It is a mixture of sand and dry cement. It also needs to be perfectly leveled while maintaining the slope. After this, you can begin installation.
Schematic representation of a gravel-sand cushion
Laying tiles
Laying paving slabs on sand with your own hands is done in a certain direction; you need to lay it “away from yourself”, so you will not disturb the evenness of the sand. The elements must be laid in such a way that there are small gaps of about 1-2 mm between them. Wooden or plastic wedges are used for fixation.
The technology involves deepening the tiles into the sand mass to about half, so you need to make sure that the layer of sand is sufficient. In this case, the thickness of the substrate must correspond to the dimensions of the depression in the ground.
Each row must be checked with a level and all defects must be eliminated locally. For this purpose, a rule is used, which is an even wooden block, and a mallet. You need to move along the sidewalk carefully so as not to displace the elements until they are completely fixed.
Irregularities on the surface are eliminated using wooden rule and a rubber mallet
Sealing seams
The last stage is sealing the seams. In order for paving slabs laid on sand to maintain their position and not move over time, they need to be secured; this can be done with your own hands very simply. To do this, use the same mixture of sand and cement powder, pour it on top of the tiles, and then use a brush to evenly distribute it over the surface so that the seams of the area are completely filled with it.
To secure the tiles by sealing the joints, use a cement-sand mixture
After you have treated the entire sidewalk, you need to sweep away the excess and sprinkle the surface with water. As soon as the water is absorbed, check the quality of the seams. The cement will swell and bind the individual tiles together. The spacers can be removed. In the future, it may be necessary to renew the filling of the joints, especially after heavy rainfall.
Filling with water is necessary to ensure that the dry mixture is compacted and compacted, so this procedure must be carried out 2-3 times to completely fill the seams between the tiles.
Now you know how to lay paving slabs on a sand bed with your own hands, following the technology. If the work is done efficiently, you will get a smooth and durable surface for many years.