How to cut and save cuttings for grafting
Gardeners who plan to carry out winter or spring grafting of rootstocks with cuttings need to prepare for this work in the fall.
The success of the grafting will largely depend on the timely harvested and properly stored cutting material.
Cuttings for grafting are cut from annual shoots.
An annual or annual shoot is called the growth of the current year. In the spring, a young shoot begins to grow from its upper bud. By the end of summer, it stops its growth, and after leaf fall it becomes woody.
The annual shoot has apical and lateral buds. All of them are vegetative, that is, they form only leaves.
The gardener should not confuse the annual shoot with fat shoots or "tops". "Top" arise on perennial skeletal branches. They grow to great lengths and are perpendicular to the branch. "Top" appear on the tree due to frost damage to the branch. You can not use "tops" as cuttings for grafting.
Gardeners usually harvest cuttings in spring or autumn. At the same time, it is important that the shoots of the plant go through the process of hardening, which begins with the onset of autumn low temperatures. For example, in the conditions Leningrad region the best time for this is the beginning of December.
In reference books and manuals, it is sometimes recommended to harvest cuttings in March. But with a harsh winter, there is nothing to cut in the spring. And in young growths of fruit trees are not yet damaged by severe frosts; there is still little snow, and you can freely walk in the garden. Exactly this the best time for the preparation of cutting material.
For harvesting cuttings are used annual shoots only with good plants- proven reliable varieties, the most productive, the most healthy and already fruiting trees.
It is important that the selected varieties of fruit crops intended for grafting successfully grow and winter in the area.
The shoots selected for cutting cuttings are cut with secateurs. It is better to take them from the top of the crown, from the southern or western part of the tree. Such shoots received more light and heat in summer, matured better and became woody.
Shoots are cut into cuttings from 15 to 40 cm long. If they are longer, then such shoots may turn out to be with insufficiently mature buds.
The cut is carried out on the annual ring between the growth of the past and this year.
Those shoots that have a pronounced terminal bud are cut into cuttings. If there is no well-formed terminal bud, then this means that the upper part of the shoot has not matured (such a branch, under the influence of low winter temperatures will usually freeze).
If unfallen leaves or petioles from leaves hang at the end of a one-year growth, it means that the branch has not finished its growth and has not matured well - it cannot be harvested for grafting.
Shoots cut into cuttings from each tree are tied together and a tag indicating the variety is attached to the bunch.
It is best to store shoots in the snow, directly in the garden. The place is chosen from north side site. The shoots are wrapped in burlap and laid on the ground. Snow is piled up in a hill to a height of 120-150 cm, compacted; from above they close the hill with sawdust or peat chips. In this form, the cuttings are well preserved until spring.
You can store the prepared cuttings in the cellar, if the temperature is kept around 0-3 degrees.
lower part shoots are pressed into moistened sand by 3-5 cm. World of the garden on the site site
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Greetings, dear readers! Many, probably, are interested not only in, if they did not have time with their planting this year, but also in the preparation and storage of cuttings. AT last years the warming trend is becoming more and more noticeable, and therefore, due to the long warm period and sharply onset cold snaps, there is a high probability of wood freezing, especially of the growth of the current year. Therefore, it is recommended to those gardeners who begin to seriously master the technique of grafting in general, and also in winter in particular, not to be late with the preparation of cuttings for this work.
It is possible to harvest cuttings during the entire dormant period of trees, which occurs after the end of leaf fall.
When and how to prepare
The handle should be as thick as a pencil. If it is thinner, it will completely dry out before the fusion of the cambial layers of the scion and rootstock occurs. Therefore, for harvesting cuttings, use a strong annual growth of at least 40-50 cm in length. If the growth is weak on the tree from which you are going to harvest cuttings, in the spring you will need to carry out a strong rejuvenating pruning on it or at least on one skeletal branch.
In the area where fruit crops are at risk of frost damage every year in winter, it is better to cut cuttings in late autumn, in the second half of November, or at the beginning of winter, before the onset of severe frosts. First of all (before the onset of frosts below 15 degrees), harvest cuttings of less winter-hardy stone fruits - peach, apricot, sweet cherry. Cuttings of more winter-hardy crops (cherries, plums) and pome crops (apple, pear, quince, mountain ash) should be prepared before the onset of frost -20 - -25 degrees.
How to store
The biggest difficulty is to keep the cuttings in good condition during the winter and early spring period before grafting. This is especially true for cuttings of stone fruit crops. Optimum temperature for storage of cuttings - minus 2-4 degrees. It is usually recommended to store cuttings in snow piles under a layer of snow of 50-70 cm. This method is good in areas where there is a lot of snow, and during winter period there are no thaws.
But in the southern regions, where thaws are not uncommon in winter, during which snow long time remains wet, in such heaps the bark and cambium of apricot and peach cuttings often get underheated. Sometimes water collects under the snow, and then the cuttings can get wet altogether. In such areas, it is recommended, after harvesting the cuttings, to hang labels on them, tie them into a common bundle, cover it with wet sawdust and put it in the cold.
After freezing a layer of sawdust 15-20 cm thick, put this bale on the ground in the shade of the house on the north side so that the sun's rays do not fall on it, and cover it with dry sawdust with a layer of 30-40 cm. Cover the whole pile with plastic wrap, which will keep the sawdust from getting wet.
sawdust have excellent thermal insulation properties, and the cuttings remain frozen until grafting. A few days before it, scatter a bunch, transfer the frozen bale with cuttings to a warm room, where it will gradually melt over several days, freeing the cuttings.
Some amateur gardeners store cuttings in the basement in damp sand. This method is acceptable for cuttings of pome crops and grapes, but usually gives poor results in stone fruits. The temperature in the cellars is positive throughout the winter period and gradually rises towards spring.
Therefore, in the cuttings of cherries and sweet cherries, already in February, buds begin to swell and bloom, and such cuttings practically do not take root. In apricot and peach cuttings, bark and cambium are supported, only plum cuttings tolerate warm storage conditions satisfactorily.
If there are few cuttings, they can be stored in a home refrigerator (in the coldest place). Place the cuttings in plastic bag wrap tightly around the bun and tie with twine. Then put another bag on top from the other end of the bundle and tie in the same way. No need to wrap the cuttings in damp cloth or paper before placing them in the bag. It is undesirable to store the cuttings in the freezer of the refrigerator, as this may cause damage to them.
Be sure to ensure that when storing the cuttings there is no excessive moisture. Its abundance at a positive temperature contributes to the early exit of the cuttings from the dormant state, premature budding and death of the bark and cambium due to a lack of oxygen in the conditions of the onset of vital activity (warming). Cuttings with cambium undergrowth and open buds are completely unsuitable for grafting. Even the lack of moisture and drying are less dangerous than the abundance of moisture and underheating.
If, during storage, the cuttings happened to dry out and the bark on them wrinkled, soak them for three days in clean water in a cold room, after updating the cuts. If there were no severe frosts in winter, cuttings can be harvested in the spring, in March, before the buds swell. In this case, all the problems associated with storage disappear. And yet, in order not to be left without cuttings, harvest them at the specified time and ensure proper storage cuttings.
The day before vaccination, renew the lower sections on the cuttings and place them in a cool room with their lower ends in clean water so that all fabrics are saturated with moisture. This will significantly increase the survival rate of the cuttings.
See you soon!
With all respect, Andrew!
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In the life of every gardener, beginner or experienced, there comes a time when fruit trees have to be grafted. Apple trees are considered common inhabitants of gardens, which the owners of the site often have to deal with. Harvesting cuttings for grafting an apple tree has many subtleties, the knowledge of which will facilitate the process and allow you to stock up on good raw materials. Before you go to harvest the scion, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the features of the process, the rules, and the advice of experienced gardeners.
Before harvesting cuttings, it is recommended to find out the features of these small parts of the branch, each of which hides a mysterious power that can give life to a full-fledged apple tree. The new tree will retain the maternal characteristics. Mandatory condition - stock up vegetable raw materials from proven trees, after making sure of their varietal characteristics and productivity.
Features to remember when stocking up shoots for grafting:
- use only annual shoots;
- it is recommended to cut branches located in the outer parts of the crown - strong and well developed under the sun's rays;
- try to cut shoots from the southern part of the apple tree - they have short internodes, and the eyes are well developed.
The vaccination will take place without hassle if you use shoots growing in the middle tier of the apple tree - they are considered the highest quality.
What does a good scion cutting look like?
Good grafting cuttings have several common features which beginner gardeners should definitely know. The harvested vegetable raw materials of the apple tree should look like this:
- length varies from 30 to 40 cm;
- shoots cut from apple trees aged 3 to 10 years;
- thickness - up to 10 mm (approximately like a regular pencil);
- there are 3-7 pronounced kidneys.
Another feature of the harvested cuttings is that the internodes should be short, it depends on them how quickly the scion takes root.
When and how cuttings are harvested
When asked about when cuttings are harvested, experienced gardeners will answer with confidence - to do exciting process recommended twice. Go to the garden with the departure of winter, with the first days of spring or before the onset of winter cold - at the end of autumn. Most gardeners cut scion for apple trees in the fall.
Autumn benefits of harvesting cuttings:
- the first frosts had time to harden the shoot, destroy pests, disinfected;
- plants have gone into a dormant stage;
- there is a guarantee that the shoots will no longer freeze, because they successfully endured the first frosts;
- for vaccination, it is recommended to use only dormant shoots, and the retired scion will remain in this state until spring.
If it was not possible to make a supply in the fall, in the spring it will turn out to cut the cuttings just as well, the main thing is not to be late. The buds should be at rest, if they begin to bloom, there is a risk that the scion will not take root.
Storage of cuttings: where and how to store
A prerequisite for successful storage is that the cuttings must be at rest until the very use. The main tasks facing the gardener:
- do not let the shoots freeze slightly;
- make sure that they do not start to deteriorate;
- prevent drying;
- prevent rodents from spoiling planting material.
- Dig shallow (up to 30 cm) trenches, lay the cuttings, after covering the bottom with conifer needles.
- Cover the plant material with spruce branches, chopped straw, and a layer of soil.
- Pour a high snowdrift (at least half a meter), compact with a shovel.
- Put a layer of sawdust (up to 20 cm).
The disadvantage of this method is that there is a risk of damage to the grafting blanks by rodents. You can prevent damage with plastic or metal mesh with small cells.
If there are few cuttings, use a refrigerator. Place the plant material in a plastic bag, leave loosely tied, put on the bottom shelf. Check throughout storage.
When is it time to get vaccinated?
Despite the fact that the apple tree is well grafted throughout the year, it is best to do this in early spring. It is recommended that grafting be carried out with the beginning of the growing season - at this time, the juice is just beginning to actively move through the wood, and the bark is well behind.
If the vaccination is carried out in a split, then it is better to hurry up and carry out work even before the juice begins to move, during the dormant period. Usually this is the beginning of April, but in warm regions it is recommended to start the process earlier - from mid-March. If there is a risk of frost returning, reschedule by a few weeks.
Grafting, in which the scion is inserted into the side cut, is done in summer, spring, even winter, especially if the seedlings have already outgrown.
There are several useful tips experienced gardeners who are recommended to listen to beginners:
- Before grafting, make sure that the cuttings are suitable - lower them with a cut into the water, carefully inspect the liquid after half an hour. If it remains transparent, use the shoots; if it becomes cloudy or turns yellow, stop using it - they are no longer suitable.
- Use for harvesting vegetable raw materials from trees that are subject to constant pruning - it is much better stored and actively takes root.
- When harvesting from young seedlings, try to cut only the branches that will be removed during pruning so as not to injure the tree.
- Use garden pitch - it will protect the cuts from infection, bacteria that can damage the shoots.
- Cut more cuttings than you need - even if some of them deteriorate during storage, there will be enough plant material for grafting.
Another important advice- do not use thin, damaged or twisted branches - good apple tree you can't grow out of them.
Harvesting cuttings is a fascinating process, and after little effort, it will certainly end with wonderful results. The apple tree will definitely thank for the work good harvest juicy, aromatic and useful fruits. The main thing is to follow the rules, recommendations of experienced gardeners and not engage in experiments that can harm the tree.
Any cutting fruit tree- not just a piece of a twig, but a real shoot with several buds, which has a truly amazing ability to grow into a full-fledged tree. But in order to achieve such a result, you should know certain nuances associated with the choice and proper preparation of cuttings. Further details on how to choose and implement the harvesting of apple cuttings for grafting in the spring (detailed photo and video instructions are attached).
Insofar as we are talking about creating a full-fledged tree, it is necessary to approach the issue of choosing a suitable cutting very seriously. It is important to observe one simple condition: the mother tree must be productive and steadily fruiting. It is worth choosing annual shoots (it is important that they ripen well) from that part of the crown that is located on outside and actively heated by the sun.
Advice. Shoots located on the south side of the tree take root better. Such cuttings are distinguished by the presence of small internodes and well-developed eyes in the leaf axils.
Try to cut cuttings from the middle tier of the crown, as the upper ones will be too thick and massive for grafting, and the lower ones will not give the desired growth.
As for the timing of the correct harvesting of apple cuttings for spring scion, the opinions of gardeners differ. So, some people think that preparatory process carried out at the beginning of winter, and always before mid-January: shoots cut later are unlikely to take root well.
Other gardeners believe that the end of winter and even the beginning of spring can be safely considered the optimal period for cutting cuttings from an apple tree. It is important to take into account the weather conditions: for example, the air temperature should not be lower than -10 degrees. This is - optimal conditions for hardening annual shoots.
You can also prepare young shoots almost before grafting, but at the same time, the plant should not yet have blossomed buds. According to the reviews of experienced gardeners, the best result is achieved when using cuttings harvested at the beginning of winter.
A cutting that is optimally suitable for harvesting as a scion must have the following external characteristics:
- shoot length should be within 30-40 cm;
- internodes should be short;
- the thickness of the shoot should be about 6-7 mm (like a simple pencil);
- the kidneys should not bloom, but at the same time they should be pronounced;
- for cutting cuttings, it is better to use a fruit-bearing young tree, whose age does not exceed 10 years.
If you are new to gardening and want to try grafting a new plant from an apple cutting, here are some helpful tips from experienced gardeners:
- Shoots should be cut so as to capture a piece of two-year-old wood (at least a couple of centimeters). This will help preserve the cuttings and improve their survival rate.
- If you plan to cut cuttings with young tree, which has not yet developed a crown, it is best to cut the shoots from the upper branches, which will be removed in the spring (thus, you minimize harm to the tree).
- When choosing suitable tree for pruning cuttings, it is better to give preference to one that is regularly pruned. The fact is that such trees give very strong and healthy shoots with good buds.
- Too thin shoots with underdeveloped buds should not be used for grafting. In the absence of others, it is better to use last year's "stocks", or refrain from growing a new tree for the current season.
- Immediately after cutting, process the cut points at the shoots garden pitch. Thus, you will increase their safety.
Rules for storing cuttings for spring vaccination
Some gardeners do not understand: why is it necessary to make cuttings so early and store them for a long time? And this is necessary in order to be able to wake up the kidneys left in a state of "rest" on the shoots at the right time. That is why you should know certain subtleties in order for the cuttings to remain viable by the time of spring vaccination.
To your attention the most simple and at the same time effective ways storage of cuttings until spring:
- In the snow. snow pile - great option for residents of those regions in which winters are very snowy and long. Dig a small trench (depth no more than 35 cm) on a flat, flood-free area, lay it out with spruce branches and put the cuttings on top. From above, cover them with spruce branches, and then with foliage, earth or sawdust. Cover the entire structure from above with a solid layer of snow and make sure that its level does not fall below 0.5 m until spring.
Advice. To prevent rodents from getting into your "good", wrap the branches with a metal mesh, nylon stockings or a plastic mesh.
- In sawdust (on the street). In those regions where winter thaws are normal, and snow is often wet, this method of storing cuttings is quite suitable. Prepare sawdust in advance (wet it thoroughly and lay it on the north side of the yard). Put the cutting bundles on the sawdust and cover them with the same top (the sawdust layer should be about 20 cm). Leave the prepared “wintering” place in the cold. When the sawdust is frozen, sprinkle more sawdust on top with a layer of about half a meter. Finished construction cover up plastic wrap to protect from getting wet. A few days before the start of grafting the cuttings, it will be enough just to bring the sawdust structure into the house.
- In the cellar. A cold cellar is a good place for storage, which was used by our grandfathers. You can place the cuttings in burlap, sawdust, peat, sand, etc. The substrate in which the cuttings will be stored must be periodically moistened.
- In the fridge. AT cold store the cuttings will feel comfortable enough. You just need to tie them, sign them and place them in a plastic bag (two are possible). The storage temperature must be strictly regulated (it should not be higher than 2 degrees Celsius). And remember that refrigeration and freezer- not the same thing. The cuttings should be chilled, not frozen.
Well, and finally, one piece of advice that should be taken into account by those who plan to store cuttings in a moist substrate. Beginner gardeners often have a question about optimal indicator humidity of the substrate for storing cuttings. Checking this is quite simple: you need to pick up a little substrate with your hand and squeeze it in your fist. If you feel moisture, but the water does not flow, then the humidity is optimal.
That's all the subtleties that you should know in order to plant healthy and fully viable apple cuttings in the spring. Good luck!
Harvesting apple cuttings: video
The main indicator of this is the discarded foliage. Therefore, it is advisable to make preparations for spring vaccination no earlier than November. It is possible even at the beginning of winter. Small frosts will not be a hindrance.
The meaning of such a preparation is that the annual shoots that are used for cutting cuttings will not die in winter in case of severe frosts. Also, for good survival, the scion must be in a "sleeping" state until the vaccination itself. And in the rootstock tree at the time of the procedure, there should be an active movement of juice. This can be achieved by preparing cuttings in advance.
Shank secrets
Cuttings or grafts are segments of annual stiff shoots. You need to take them from varietal trees and shrubs tested for fertility. Then we will clearly know what to expect from the grafted plant. It is advisable to take cuttings for clothespins from trees on which anti-aging pruning is carried out in a timely manner. They have stronger shoots and better developed growth buds.
It is advisable to cut the grafts from annual branches. But if this is not possible, it is possible from two-year-olds.
First of all, pay attention to the diameter of the shoot. It should be at least 6-7mm. This corresponds to the thickness of a simple pencil. The length of the branch from which scions can be taken should be at least 40-50cm. If the shoot has damage or spots, it is better not to use it.
Our advice:
If you need to take cuttings from a young tree with a small crown, it is better to choose for this the branches that you plan to cut in the spring.
Timing of cutting cuttings for grafting
Another important nuance is the timing of cutting cuttings for different crops. First of all, we harvest grafts from plants less resistant to frost - cherries, peaches, apricots. This can be done until frosts do not exceed 5-8°C. But cuttings from apple trees, cherries, plums, pears, quinces, mountain ash can be harvested even with more low temperatures(up to 15°С). Therefore, the first preparations are carried out from the second decade of November to mid-December (if they do not hit very coldy). For frost-resistant plants, the whole of December, and even the beginning of January, is suitable. An additional bonus will be the natural disinfection of sections. Since frost will destroy fungi and many microorganisms.
Portrait of the ideal cutting for grafting
If you have decided where to get scions, and November has already shown its harsh character, it's time to get down to business.
- A good cutting should be 30-40 cm long, with cherries it can be longer - 50-60 cm. Not less than 4-5 well-developed growth buds.
- No need to cut cuttings from the "fat" shoots. Tops are distinguished by a greenish tinge of the bark and longer internodes. They are located on strong branches and directed upwards. Such a scion will take root, but will bear fruit poorly.
- The scion should not be thin or crooked, short (less than 10-15cm). The core of the branch should be lively, greenish.
- In a properly prepared cutting, the cut is just below the growth neck. The scion cut in this way takes root better.
How to store cuttings for grafting
Before you send the cuttings for storage, you need to sort them, tie them in bunches and attach labels with the name of the variety. It is advisable to prepare more grafting material than you need.
There are several proven ways to store grafts.
“To save the cuttings until spring, it is necessary that the kidney is in a dormant state,” explains Pavel Nikolaevich Naumenko, agronomist of the private enterprise "Agrosvit" in the Kiev region. - To do this, it is necessary to place the cuttings in a room where the air temperature is not higher than 5-7 ° C. It can be a cellar, a basement, and even a refrigerator, but not a freezer.
Wrap the cuttings in damp cloth or burlap and cellophane. Tie well so that moisture does not evaporate. Check from time to time for mold. If yes, wash them cold water and change the fabric.
You can also store the scions in a cool room, lowering the slices into the sand, which must be periodically moistened.
These methods are more suitable for pome crops and grapes. For stone fruit plants, they are not always successful. Since the air temperature in the cellar or basement gradually rises, the buds may awaken ahead of time. Such cuttings take root poorly.
stone fruit plants
Scions of stone fruit plants need to be stored at an air temperature of minus 2-3°C. Sawdust can be used to create the appropriate conditions. It is recommended to place the connected bundles of cuttings in some container and cover them with wet sawdust with a layer of 10-15 cm. After that, freeze. They have such a home-made "refrigerator" in the shade behind the house or barn, where the sun's rays do not penetrate. From above they fall asleep with dry sawdust 40-50 cm and cover with cellophane, which will keep them from getting wet. This device will save the cuttings in a "sleeping" state until the vaccination itself. A few days before the procedure, the pile must be cleared and the container with scions should be transferred to a warm room for thawing.
You can store the cuttings in a trench, the depth of which is 30-40 cm. Spruce branches are laid on the bottom, then grafts wrapped in film or cellophane, and again a layer of spruce branches. From above, the pit is covered with earth, then with fallen leaves, straw or sawdust. When the snow falls, you can heat it up on the storage.
In addition to protection from freezing and drying out, the cuttings must be protected from the ubiquitous rodents. Fiberglass or a fine-mesh net will help us with this, with which we need to wrap the grafts over cellophane. Experienced gardeners claim that no less effective protection old nylon tights or stockings can serve.
In March-April, when the trees begin to wake up, you can start grafting. The main conditions for this are the beginning of the movement of juice in the tree and the dormant bud of the scion.
Oksana SHAPOVAL
photo depositphotos