I want to say a huge thank you to Alisher. I have never met such decent, honest, fast workers, and most importantly, they do their job very efficiently. The other day I ordered construction materials for the gazebo at the dacha. The question arose how to build it. First, I asked my friends who they would recommend. One team offered me for 30 tr, the other generally put up 40 tr. Then I decided to look in profi.ru. Alisher responded to my request. We agreed for 10 tr. In 1.5 days I had a ready-made gazebo, all the neighbors started asking for the phone number of my workers, how cool they made my gazebo. I called my friend’s husband, he’s just a builder, and appreciated the work very well.
Grade 5+Tatyana, Volokolamsk
Ordering services: Construction of houses.
We decided to change the team of builders and came across Vladimir's questionnaire, which is now very happy, since Vladimir turned out to be an excellent foreman, who always goes to a meeting, approaches work responsibly, everything is done on time and efficiently, thanks to him for the work done. It is a pity that we did not meet him earlier, when the construction began.
Grade 5+Good afternoon to everyone who reads this review. I want to express my deep gratitude to Denis Valerievich Romonenkov For the provision of services for the construction of the BATH, I came one call each, they discussed everything, put on a sheet of paper what to buy for the construction, and read the material as much as needed. In a week I bought what Denis wrote. The builders arrived on Monday and began to build. Exactly in a week they set up a bathhouse, the building guys are very neat (not ... as it happens) For which, too, many thanks to them !!! In a word, I recommend Denis, he is a real professional in his field !!!
Grade 5+Alexander, Staraya Kupavna
Ordering services: Construction of baths and saunas.
Everything is fine! The guys responded to the request to fix the work of other builders (fix the poorly prepared strip foundation of the fence, align and abetonate the pillars, equip the gates, fix the picket fence). Everything was fixed quickly and efficiently. In addition .. Additionally, we took up the work of correcting errors in the interior decoration of the house. Recommend!
Grade 5+Natalia, Istra
Ordering services: Gate installation. Construction of fences from euroshtaketnik.
Konstantin Anatolyevich is a professional builder, they say, a man in his place, built a wonderful two-storey house for me over the summer, while without finishing, but this, in fact, was the task and it was 100% completed. Of course, I plan to continue construction for him. I will be happy to recommend it to my friends, as I am absolutely sure that it will not let you down, and the quality will be at its best.
Grade 5April 2016. Construction of an extension to the bathhouse. At the very first meeting, Alexey examined in detail the entire volume of work and within half an hour calculated the total cost. We agreed with the price. We signed a contract. We agreed on the order of work. A week later, Alexei started. Quickly enough, he erected the frame of the extension. All work was carried out within the originally agreed timeframe (which surprised us, the first time we saw this at the builders). He refers to the work performed "with a soul." Listens to recommendations. Expresses sensible suggestions and solutions. In general, we are satisfied with the results of Alexey's work. The first builder who cares for the result and is ready to adapt to the situation. Recommended!
Grade 5+Having your own country house where you can take a break from the bustle of the city, enjoy clean air and peace is the dream of every city dweller. Of course, in order to go to the dacha with pleasure every time you need to have decent housing, and not a lopsided shack. How can such a dream come true? It is very simple - to make an inexpensive house from a profiled bar.
There are three options:
- draw yourself;
- order from a construction company;
- find a free project from friends or on the Internet.
The project is needed in order to streamline the stages of the work and calculate the materials for the future house. When calculating materials, it is better to contact a specialist for support. Incorrect calculation of lumber can lead to significant financial waste in the future.
To calculate the amount of timber, you can use a simple calculator:
Wall length
m
Wall width
m
Wall height
m
Bar section
150x150 mm. 180x180 mm. 200x200 mm.
Bar length
5m 6m 7m 8m 9m 10m 11m 12m
The foundation for a country house
The foundation is the foundation of any building. The most suitable option for a small country house is a support-column foundation made of cement blocks.
The advantages of such a foundation are obvious:
- the construction of the foundation does not take long, and it is 2 times more economical than the tape;
- the simplicity of the design will be understandable even to a person far from construction;
- such a foundation can be made by one person without much difficulty.
Depending on the depth, the columnar foundation can be:
- shallow- depth of about 50-70 cm;
- deepened - more than 1 m deep, sometimes, depending on the soil, it is up to 2 m deep.
Foundation construction
We will build our country house from professional timber on a slightly deepened foundation made of cement blocks 20x20x40 mm.
Consider the sequence of work on the construction of the foundation, instructions:
- we clean the area of debris and cut off a ball of earth with a thickness of 6 to 10 cm;
- making markings for future posts. The columns, as seen in the photo, are placed at every angle and all future walls. The distance between them is 1-1.5 m;
- We dig out recesses for the posts, since our posts will be made by the brickwork method, from cement blocks 20x20x40 mm, then their thickness will be 40 cm.Taking into account this, you need to make a hole 10-20 cm larger, this will simplify the further laying of blocks.
- on the bottom of the dug hole, we lay a drainage cushion of 10-15 cm of sand, 5 cm of crushed stone and a layer of waterproofing, this is necessary in order to accelerate the drainage of water from the base of the foundation.
- On the "hard" cement mortar, we lay blocks with dressing, carefully grind each seam and plaster the surface of the blocks.
So, in a few steps, you can do it yourself without much difficulty.
Profiled timber walls
The construction of walls from a profiled beam is somewhat reminiscent of a children's designer. This task is not difficult, and every man who knows what a nail is and knows how to hold a hammer in his hands can do it. But, despite this, some knowledge is needed to build a house from a professional bar.
Erection of walls from profiled timber
The first thing to do before starting the construction of walls is to waterproof the foundation. To do this, lay several layers of roofing material on the pillars of our base and coat with mastic.
The next, we can say the most important point, is the laying of the first crown. For the first crown, we take the usual, not profiled, its size should be slightly larger than the main decks. In the absence of a thicker product, you can use two smaller logs joined together.
Note! Interior walls can be made of other materials or thinner beams. But if you planned them from a bar, then you need to "lift" them together with the box. If you leave it "for later", then "later" you can use only other material, such as drywall partitions or lining. Advice! The first crown must be set strictly according to the level, since the quality of the house built directly depends on it. If the first crown is not in level, then the structure will go jamb.
After the first crown is laid, we proceed to the construction of walls from a profiled bar. This process does not take much time, the “thorn-groove” system provides uniform shrinkage to the timber and allows you to build a country house from professional timber in the shortest possible time.
We can say that you just need to fold the bar onto the bar.
In principle, this is so, but in some cases you need to figure it out, consider the main points on which questions may arise:
- gusset- can be performed: a) in a half-tree, b) one-sided locking groove, c) in a ligation with a root thorn, d) "on a mustache" with a secret thorn;
- fastened - with wooden pegs, which are hammered into specially drilled holes with a diameter of 2-3 cm in increments of 1-1.5 m. They can also be connected with iron pegs or nails, but when building the first country house with your own hands, it is not recommended to do this. Incorrectly driven nails can lead to the fact that after shrinkage, the logs will hang on them;
- be sure to insulate inter-crown seams and corner joints;
- leave a small opening in the places of future windows and doors, do not try to make the opening perfect for your future window or door. Lack of experience can lead to a distortion of the wall, openings for windows and doors can be easily cut out with a chainsaw after construction is completed.
Note! Installation of windows can be carried out only after complete shrinkage of the log house. A prematurely installed window can be crushed during the shrinking process at home.
Roof for a wooden house
After installing the walls, we proceed to the installation of the roof.
A house made of profiled timber can have a roof made from a variety of materials:
- slate;
- ondulin;
- corrugated board;
- euroruberoid;
- metal tiles and other roofing materials.
Roof installation works
Installing a roof on a wooden house is actually no different from installing a roof on buildings made of other building materials. The first step is to install the ceiling logs, install them on the edge in half a meter increments.
Note! The installed logs should protrude beyond the base of the wall by more than half a meter. The larger the ledge, the less rain and snow will fall on the walls, and the extra moisture is not needed for the wooden walls.
When the frame is ready, we proceed to the installation of the gables. Basically, the pediments are made from the same timber as the walls. But if you need to save money, then they can be made from boards, plywood, OSB, siding or lining.
At the end, depending on the choice of roofing, the lathing is mounted. Basically, this is a 50x50 mm rail. If you have chosen such material as, for example, euroruberoid, then you will have to sew up the frame completely. In this case, OSB is most often used.
Before installing roofing material, you need to pay attention to such a thing as "roofing pie". At least for the roof of the country house, waterproofing must be done so that the roof does not accumulate moisture.
To build a house from a bar, certain carpentry skills are required. The process of building a house is carried out in several stages. The profiled timber should be laid according to the developed technology in order to achieve the best result. It is important to carry out appropriate calculations and select quality materials. The work carried out by specialists will help to build a house as soon as possible and save costs.
Laying profiled timber using the correct technology will ensure a high quality of construction.
Foundation preparation
For building a house, the optimal foundation is considered to be a strip one. For its arrangement, stones, vegetation are removed, hillocks and pits are leveled. When the site is leveled, the territory is marked. After that, a trench is dug, the depth of which depends on the height of the building and the soil, the width is at least 25 cm. The profiled beam is light enough, therefore, for a one-story structure, you can use a shallow foundation.
For a building of several floors or erection on unstable soil, the foundation must correspond to the level of soil freezing. On average, this figure reaches 1.2-1.5 m.
The following materials are needed for the foundation:
concrete, sand, crushed stone;
formwork;
reinforcing rods.
Any home begins with the preparation of the foundation. Source penza-press.ru
The trench is covered with sand and crushed stone, a mesh is laid with rods to reinforce the foundation. It is recommended to use knitting wire to connect the rods rather than welding. The formwork is laid out, and then everything is poured with concrete. For the manufacture of concrete mortar, cement, sand and crushed stone are used - all components are thoroughly mixed. The ratio of materials is 1: 3: 4, the cement grade is at least 400. The foundation is allowed to stand for about 2 weeks.
Laying the first row
For construction, only flat and whole beams are used, which have no visible defects. The laying of the timber must meet all technological standards. Only light and dry materials are used, if gray cuts or spots are found on it, then they cannot be used. In the process of construction, roofing material, bitumen, pins and an antiseptic are additionally laid.
For structural strength, pins are used to fasten the timber Source myvideosait.ru
The dried foundation is covered with bitumen, roofing felt on top, its width is at least 20 cm more than the foundation, the edges hang down exactly on both sides. Such waterproofing will protect the future building from moisture. At all joints, the roofing material is laid with an overlap of 10 cm, it is well coated with bitumen and pressed against. Before assembling, it is necessary to determine the type of connection at the corners. The cutout in the upper bar of the lower part is considered to be advantageous, and vice versa in the lower one. This mounting option allows you to save on material, and the ends will not go beyond the corners of the building.
All work on the assembly of the structure begins with marking and further cutting of the prepared material. Before assembly, the tree is treated with an antiseptic, dried, and only then holes are drilled in it every 50 cm along the timber. Two beams are laid on both sides, on top it is still, grooves are made in them at the ends. The row is leveled, and the corners are adjusted, the protrusions are corrected with a plane.
After fixing the first row, the assembly of a house from a bar involves the installation of floor slabs, as well as the base of the walls. Used beams 15x10 cm. In the beams cut grooves of 40 cm from the inside (it is recommended to use "T" -shaped grooves), the ends of the beams must be cut. This insertion method increases the strength of the joints. After installing the beams, they are aligned horizontally so that they are in the same plane.
Beam marking
1 - joints;
A, C / D, B - longitudinal / transverse walls;
E - partitions.
Walls can be erected from a solid timber and extrusion, partitions / transverse - from a solid timber. In the longitudinal wall, an overlap of 15 cm is made to the floor. To obtain the most accurate and uniform dimensions and cuts, it is best to use templates that will help you quickly carry out the process and transfer the contours to the timber.
All markings on the uneven bars are made according to one template.
Log house connection, hole drilling, insulation
To connect each crown, pins made of wood or metal are used. They are located at a distance of at least 25 cm from the end of the timber, and then every 0.9-1.5 m. For any part, even the smallest, at least two dowels should be used, the length of which is at least one and a half times longer than the timber. The dowels must be buried a few centimeters into the tree.
The holes are slightly smaller to fit snugly. The hole depth is several centimeters greater than the pins used. For drilling, a drill with a stop is used so that all dimensions are the same. Sealing is carried out with a tape of special insulation. The tape is stretched over the entire surface of the timber in several layers, fixed with staples. Outside, if the wall is not sheathed, the gasket is made at a distance of several centimeters so that it does not get wet.
The timber overlaps each other, the edges are fixed with dowels Source rwhouse.ru
Walling
The blockhouse can be bandaged in several ways:
in a paw or bowl - for round logs;
on the root spike - for a rectangular section, a laborious method, but provides a high density of joints.
The pins used can be wood or metal. Standard dimensions are 12-15 cm high, 2.5 cm thick, the holes for them should be several centimeters deeper. The laid row is adjusted in the corners, the insulation is laid and the next crown of logs on top, then the dowels are driven in. Heater can be tow, felt or jute. The materials are fixed with a stapler. When several rows are assembled, openings for windows and doors are cut out, holes are made on the cuts to ensure air exchange. On the last two rows, grooves are made for the ceiling.
At a sufficient level of laying the timber, openings for windows and doors are cut out Source iskona.org
When assembling the walls, one must take into account the fact that in fact all the beams will differ by millimeters from each other, which can negatively affect the result. Therefore, to make the flat side work out only from the inside or outside. Sometimes a curved or twisted bar will come across. It is recommended that the former be cut into small pieces, and the latter should be used altogether for various outbuildings on the site, baths, or used for other purposes. A beam curved in one plane cannot be used for walls, expecting that it will level out under the weight of other materials - this will not happen. Curved timber can be laid in the wall only by leveling it horizontally with sequential fixation with dowels.
In the process of work, the assembly is constantly checked, and the following parameters are monitored. If any deviations are found, further work is stopped until the problems are eliminated. Special attention is paid to the height of the corners and the verticality. In case of problems with verticality, the problem is eliminated until the bars are replaced. In this case, the height of the corners can be adjusted with spacers between the crowns.
All angles in the house, vertical and horizontal, must be 90 ° Source cocinandote.com
The assembly of a log house can be carried out in two ways of laying a timber - with or without a remainder. In the first case, you can get a warmer and more stable house with the simplest possible construction scheme. However, the material will be consumed with more waste, increased installation costs and less building footprint. In addition, such a house is very difficult to insulate or sheathe with siding. In the second case, there will be no convex walls, so additional finishing and insulation can be carried out, the total space inside increases. But it is very important to adhere to all technology so that the house is not blown out.
Openings for doors and windows
The formation of a doorway begins from the 2nd crown, the height to the window is at least 70 cm. The formation of openings can be carried out in two ways. "Rough" opening in preparation for creating the opening. The opening itself is equipped for installation after the timber has shrunk. The assembly of the structure is accelerated, beams are mounted in the openings for fastening the walls.
In the second version, they immediately equip themselves for installation, put decks that connect the timber and act as slopes. If the installation of metal-plastic windows will be carried out, then the decks can be omitted. A vertical groove is made at the ends along the opening, where the rail is inserted. Reiki / decks are made 5-7 cm smaller than the opening so that it does not interfere with shrinkage.
Installation of windows and doors with a "rough" opening is carried out by sawing it out according to the appropriate dimensions. The joints are sealed with insulation, it must be nailed at an angle. Then the window box is inserted, fixed to the deck with self-tapping screws, on top of the gap for shrinkage, it is filled with a soft insulation.
When installing the window box, be sure to leave gaps for shrinkage.
Roof assembly
The beams lie at a distance of 90-110 cm from each other, if the attic is used as a living space, then beams of 15-20 cm are used, not residential - 10-15 cm. After that, the support posts and rafters are fastened. For the lathing, boards with a width of about 15 cm and a maximum thickness of 2 cm are used. The distance between the rafters depends entirely on the weight of the ceiling, the standard is 1.2 cm, fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws or nails. Maximum attention is paid to the support leg fasteners. Waterproofing is laid on the crate, and then the roofing.
Video description
In short, the process of building a house from a bar displays this video:
On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer the service of building houses from turnkey profiled timber. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the Low-Rise Country exhibition of houses.
Conclusion
Laying profiled timber requires certain knowledge and skills. It is very important to prepare high-quality material and comply with all construction technology. Only in this case you can get a good, warm and durable house, bathhouse or other building. Profiled timber is distinguished by a favorable price and light weight, therefore, it allows additional savings on the foundation.
The environmental friendliness of wood and the microclimate inside the house makes wooden houses very popular. Wood retains heat well, looks great and is not expensive. Several types of timber are currently being produced.
Types of timber
An ordinary bar is produced on a circular saw by cutting 2-4 parts from a log. Then the timber is dried naturally or in drying chambers.
Glued laminated timber is produced by gluing dried boards. Then the resulting material is processed on profiling or cylindering machines. As a result, the timber is very durable, does not crack over time, and the house, built from glued laminated timber, practically does not shrink. Perhaps its only drawback is its high price.
The most inexpensive and easy to install is profiled timber. Profiled beams are made from coniferous wood: pine, spruce, larch and cedar. Unlike conventional timber, it has a groove (s) on one side and a spike (s) on the opposite side. The grooves are made to simplify the assembly of the house and a tighter and better connection. The remaining two sides of it are planed even, or rounded under a log, or have a small chamfer.
To build a country house from a profiled bar, you should pay attention to its moisture content. It is best to purchase dried timber with a moisture content of no more than 20%. From dry material, it is easier to erect walls and it will not lead after assembly. After purchasing a building material, in order to avoid the accumulation of excess moisture, it is impossible to allow for a long storage period, but immediately start assembling the box at home.
If it is decided to use a timber of natural moisture, then it is best to buy material that was harvested in winter, since the movement of sap during this period stops, and there is no excess moisture in the wood.
Project
The project of the house is chosen based on personal ideas about what suburban housing should be, and, of course, from financial capabilities. The project can be bought from the respective companies or drawn by yourself. But in any case, it is necessary to coordinate it with the administration of the district where the construction of the house is planned, and to obtain all the necessary permits. After obtaining permission, you need to contact the woodworking company where the profiled timber is produced, and order the amount of building material corresponding to the project.
Foundation
In the meantime, the material is being prepared in production, it is necessary to prepare the foundation for the future country house. When buying a ready-made house project, there should be no problems with choosing the type of foundation. And when you develop a project yourself, you need to calculate all the pros and cons of different types of foundation. The most preferred type of foundation for a year-round home is the tape type. This foundation is reliable, capable of withstanding the load from a two-story house made of timber, and when building it with your own hands, it is not so expensive.
So, first of all, you need to determine the place on the site for construction and carry out the markup. Houses look beautiful when the foundation (basement) protrudes slightly beyond the wall, therefore, the pegs must be hammered 5-10 cm further (make the foundation wider) than the size of the house itself. Of course, this will entail additional costs for concrete, but it will give not only a beautiful view, but also an even distribution of the load on the foundation from the house. The inside of the foundation should also protrude beyond the wall. In the future, the floor lags will rest on the inner ledge. Let's give a simple example: a foundation 300 mm wide must be poured under a house made of 150 mm wide timber, the outer part of which will protrude beyond the wall by 50 mm, and the inner part by 100 mm.
We mark the perimeter of the house by pulling the ropes between the pegs. If the house has internal walls made of timber of the same size as the external ones, then under them it is necessary to fill in the same foundation as the main one. A trench is dug with a width equal to the width of the foundation and a depth of 70-80 cm. Do not dig a wide trench, in the future this can lead to inconvenience in installing the formwork, and to a simple over-consumption of concrete. A sand pillow must be made under the foundation. To do this, the bottom of the dug trench is covered with sand 15-20 cm and well compacted with a tamping or by pouring water abundantly.
Assembling the formwork
The formwork consists of wooden panels assembled from edged or unedged boards 25 mm thick and 150 mm wide. The sufficient height of the foundation from the ground level is three boards assembled together, that is, 45 cm. It is not worth saving and making the foundation for a wooden house lower, otherwise spring-winter period - from snow melting.
After assembling the shields, they are installed in place of the dug trench opposite each other and fastened together. In the upper part, the shields are fastened with a bar, which is placed on top of the formwork and screwed with one self-tapping screw to one shield, the other to the other. In the middle and at the bottom, the shields are fastened together with thick wire. To do this, each shield is drilled opposite each other in the place of transverse fastening of the boards, a thick knitting wire is inserted into the holes obtained, the ends of which are twisted from the outside to each other. Inside the formwork, a thick screwdriver or a long nail is inserted between the wires and twisted together, controlling the distance between the shields with a conductor bar. After twisting the wire, the conductor bar is taken out, and a firmly fastened formwork is obtained, which does not require side support pegs. After installing all the panels and assembling the formwork, it is necessary to check its horizontality using a laser or water level.
Expert opinion! It is best to level the formwork immediately and pour concrete, leveling it along its upper edge. In this case, we immediately get a perfectly flat foundation horizontally and avoid further problems with its leveling.
Now you need to lay and tie the reinforcement. For the foundation under the house, it is best to use reinforcement with a diameter of at least 12 mm. For a foundation with a width of 300 mm and a total height of 1 meter, three belts of reinforcement with two rods each will be sufficient. If the reinforcement is short and you have to add more, then the overlap should be at least 30 diameters of the diameter of the rod itself. That is, if reinforcement of 12 diameters is used, then the overlap should be 12 * 30 = 360 mm. The reinforcement is tied together with a knitting wire.
Before pouring concrete, it is necessary to provide for places in the foundation where there will be holes for ventilation of the subfloor. For these purposes, asbestos-cement pipes are usually used. They are sawn off to the size of the foundation and installed inside the formwork. To prevent the pipes from floating during the pouring of concrete, they are fixed with nails or self-tapping screws.
All preparatory work has been completed, concrete can be poured. During and after pouring, it is necessary to “tap” the formwork with a hammer. This is done to get air out of the concrete. After pouring, the upper part of the foundation is leveled with a trowel.
In the summer, the formwork can be removed after three days and after two weeks the walls of the house can be erected from profiled timber.
Assembling the walls of the house
During the construction of the foundation, the materials, or rather the profiled timber, were already manufactured at the production site and delivered to the site. Now you need to assemble the box at home as soon as possible and cover it with a roof.
We lay waterproofing material on the foundation and already on it the first crown (lower strapping) of the house. For the first crown of the house, you can use a regular timber.
Further, the installation process is similar to the assembly of a children's designer. The beam is stacked on top of each other and is attached to each other with wooden or metal pins to prevent displacement. To do this, the timber must be drilled and a dowel inserted into the resulting hole.
Thus, several rows are fastened at once. It is necessary to lay insulation between the rows.
In the corners, the timber can be combined with the remainder or without the remainder. This moment can be solved at the stage of production of timber, at the factory and the most suitable version of the corner joint can be ordered or done by yourself. In any case, in order to avoid heat loss, the corner joint must be warm and made according to the tenon-groove system.
If the house has two floors, then upon completion of the construction of the first, interfloor beams, preferably of a large section (150 * 150 mm), are placed on top of the walls on top, at a distance of no more than 60 cm from each other. Further, the process continues in the same order as when erecting the walls of the first floor.
Roof installation
After completing the construction of the walls, proceed to the installation of the rafter system. Most often on country houses, gable roofs are made with an angle of inclination of at least 30 °. Planks 150 * 50 mm are used as rafters. They are assembled in the shape of the letter A and installed on the walls. First, the extreme rafters are placed, a landmark (strong thread) is pulled between them, and then all the others. The rafters are attached to the wall using corners or 300 mm nails. In the case of an insulated roof, a vapor barrier material is pulled along the rafters, and then a wooden crate is equipped. A ventilated gap must be left between the batten and the vapor barrier.
For this, a counter rail is nailed along the rafters, and then the crate itself. It is already possible to lay sheet roofing material (profiled sheet, metal tile) on such a crate. And for a soft roof, you will have to make a solid base of plywood.
Interior decoration
The box is under the roof, you can go inside the almost finished house. The initial task is to make the floors. To do this, floor logs are laid on the protruding part of the foundation at a distance of 60 cm from each other.
It is not worth saving on them and purchasing a bar 150 * 150 for these purposes. We nail boards of 150 * 50 mm to the wall on one side and on the other, and equip the rough floor.
We put a vapor barrier material between the beams, and then a heater. We cover the insulation with a vapor barrier material on top, provide a ventilated gap and lay the floorboard. The gap is obtained by stuffing the bar onto the logs. Warming of interfloor ceilings takes place in the same way.
A house made of profiled timber with your own hands will shrink. Therefore, all finishing work, in addition to yours described, must be carried out only after complete shrinkage.
Depending on the thickness of the selected timber, further costs for heating it and the degree of its further insulation depend. The profiled timber is made planed and does not require additional finishing except treatment with an antiseptic and painting.
Environmental friendliness and high quality characteristics are inherent in wooden housing construction. Our grandfathers collected whole houses from round timber, the beauty of which is still delightful. And thanks to modern antiseptics and neomid, the wooden blockhouse is not afraid of fires and fungus. In installation on your own, it is easier to use a bar of the correct shape. How to make a log house from a bar with your own hands, the main stages of installation, the rules and recommendations of specialists can be found in this article.
We design your house
Before assembling a house from a bar, you must choose the right project. Log buildings are assembled according to standard or individual designs, they can differ in architectural complexity or have simple shapes. If you plan to assemble a ready-made factory log house, then we recommend opting for a standard project, which has advantages:
- The blockhouse has already been tested in operation, and the manufacturer has eliminated the main disadvantages.
- The material for manufacturing is used as economically as possible, so the price for a finished box is cheaper.
- It is easier to choose a finishing material and a roof, as you can see with your own eyes several finished houses and talk to the owners.
When choosing an individual design, timber is also the most suitable material. It has the correct shape and fits any size. Therefore, with the advent of this lumber, it became possible to assemble wooden boxes of the most complex and unusual shapes.
Choosing a timber of the desired section, any project can be easily adjusted to any region with different average temperatures and climates. A small section material is suitable for a garden or country house: 100x50 mm, 100x100 mm. For permanent residence, a bar with a section of 150x150, 150x200, 200x100 mm is taken. The simplest option is a square section - 150x150 mm. The square shape allows you to quickly assemble the walls without selecting the technical and external sides. But on condition that the timber is simple. In this case, a section of 150x150 mm must also be insulated.
One of the economical options is profiled material. The spike and groove on the technical sides of the timber are firmly connected during installation and create a reliable barrier to the wind. The walls are insulated with a tape heat insulator, right during assembly. And if the front and back sides are additionally sanded, then after assembling the box, you just need to walk along the walls with paint and varnish material and the house is ready for living.
A separate group is made of glued sawn timber. This bar consists of lamellas, which are interconnected under the influence of a press and glue. But scientists still argue about the environmental friendliness of glued sawn timber. From the positive stand out: high strength of the walls and increased thermal insulation properties. So for the construction of a residential building from glued material, a cross section of 100x100 mm is suitable; at winter temperatures up to -15 degrees, additional wall insulation is not needed.
When choosing a project, it is worth considering what type of timber the walls will be assembled from. Since further finishing work depends on this, which means additional material investments.
Where to start?
When the project is selected, the assembly of a log house from a bar begins. The base of the house is being prepared - the foundation. Since the material is lightweight, any type of foundation is suitable:
- Columnar;
- Tape grillage;
- Tape.
We do not recommend a monolithic one, since this is the most expensive option, which will be profitable only if the soil is mobile and strongly crumbling. For loose soil with a high occurrence of groundwater, a pile or columnar foundation is suitable. How to build a house if the soil is swampy and mobile? It is wise to use screw piles. It is easy to mount them with your own hands, and there will be less "walking" in the future. But, choosing a columnar or pile foundation, it is worthwhile to understand that in the future, the basement of the house will have to be additionally framed and insulated. Otherwise, there will be no basement or cellar in the house, and the heat loss after the basement is insulated will decrease by 15%.
One of the most popular types of foundations for a wooden frame is strip. It got its name for its external resemblance to a concrete tape rolled out on the ground. The height of the foundation is selected individually and is related to the characteristics of the groundwater.
With a high level of groundwater occurrence and freezing in winter by more than 1.2 m, a tape-grillage option can be used. The structure combines a concrete strip, but on piles every 1.5 - 2 m. Moreover, first the piles are poured, then the formwork is made for the strip. Before pouring, it is recommended to calculate the cubic capacity of the foundation, this will reduce the cost of concrete.
A detailed technology for assembling a tape-grillage foundation is disclosed in one of the previous articles.
Lego for adults
The manufacturer will deliver the finished log house to the site in a sealed package, it will be easier to assemble it with your own hands. It is difficult to assemble your house from a solid bar without experience and skills, since the correct connection of the corners is required. But more on that below.
Strapping
Before laying the first crown, it is necessary to waterproof the foundation. The tree is hermetically sealed, and along the microcracks in the foundation, moisture will get to the first crown and over time it will begin to rot. For work you will need materials: bituminous mastic (price from 350 rubles) and roofing material (price from 220 rubles)
Waterproofing is carried out as follows:
- From above, the foundation is coated with hot bitumen mastic.
- The first layer of roofing material is rolled out from above. When docked, the material is overlapped.
- Roofing material is again coated with bituminous mastic.
- The finishing layer of roofing material is rolled out.
The width of the roofing material should exceed the width of the foundation by 15–20 cm. The remaining ends of the roofing material can later be hidden under the plinth trim.
First crown
The first crown of the log house is laid on the level of the dried out waterproofing. In cross-section, the first crown is larger than the others in the box. This will increase the stability of the structure.
The first crown of a log house is the most important in the design, therefore, to increase durability, it is worth overpaying for larch or aspen. They are less susceptible to moisture, and over time they acquire a hardness comparable to iron. But we do not recommend using aspen from the Volga region. The tree has a fragile core and in 90% of cases is not suitable for construction.
Before laying, the first crown is covered with protective compounds (Sanezh, Belinka Bio, Tikkurila, Neomid 440 and Valtti Aquacolor (price from 120 rubles / l). The first crown is laid on unfolded slats or a lining board. The slats are laid in increments of 30-40 cm across the foundation tape, the boards are sewn to the base using metal pins. The slats are 10 mm thick and create an additional gap between the foundation and the strapping, which creates additional ventilation. The wooden strapping is attached to the foundation using metal anchors. But the box is attached to the base only in light Large houses with several floors are quite heavy and will not move from the base without additional fasteners.
We fold the box
It is not difficult to build a log house from a ready-made kit, but you will have to tinker with a solid bar. There are several options for corner joints of a bar with a remainder and even:
- Assembling in the paw. At the ends of the timber, spikes and nests for them are cut out. It has disadvantages: it is blown out, over time the material will dry out and serious insulation will be required.
- Dovetail. The option is similar to the previous one, but has a special cut at an angle. Minus the difficulty drank.
- Into the bowl. In each beam, a bowl is made from below under the upper link. The upper crown fits into the bowl and creates a sealed connection. Cons: You need skill and a special cup cutter.
- Half a tree. Half of the section is cut in each end part. The upper crown fits into the resulting nest. Disadvantages are blow-through and unreliable connections. To increase grip, a key is made of wood, which connects the ends.
Cornering with the remainder is considered warmer and more reliable. The corners and the timber are additionally connected to each other using dowels. Nagel used wooden or metal. The latter option is safer, but when the log dries up, cracks form in the walls, and metal pins spoil the appearance of the house. Wooden dowels can be made independently from the remnants of lumber or birch. The dowels will give the structure additional strength, and will not allow the timber to twist when it dries. Dowels are attached to every two crowns, passing one, in increments of at least 150 cm.
A jute insulation is rolled out between each bar (price from 110 rubles). If the material is profiled, then between the spikes and grooves there is a special groove for laying tape insulation. If joints of the timber are needed along the length, then a joint in the root spike is used. The essence of the connection is in the cut-outs of the thorn and groove, which are securely connected and additionally fastened with dowels.
Internal partitions in a log house do not need to be assembled immediately. They are made with a material of a smaller section and are attached to the main walls. But if you plan a two-story log house from a bar with your own hands, then at least one partition is assembled immediately. It serves as additional support.
Sub-floors can be installed immediately. They further serve as the basis for a warm "cake" of the finished floor. Mineral wool or ecowool, polystyrene can serve as a floor insulation. The most inexpensive option is to use foam, it will add additional sound insulation between floors.
It is not recommended to cut out window and door openings in a log house right away. The structure must stand. Even chamber drying within the first three months will shrink at least 3%, natural humidity at least 10%. Before inserting the frames, a jar is made, which will give the structure more strength and will not allow distortions to occur during the walking of the ground.
Choosing a roof and roof
Until complete shrinkage, a rough roof is erected. If the timber is chamber-dried or glued, then the shrinkage is insignificant and you can proceed to the finishing roof. Any material is suitable as a roof: corrugated board, ondulin, soft tiles. The most economical option for garden houses is roofing material or slate. The pitch of the lathing will depend on the choice of the roof. The softer the roof and the flatter the roof, the more often the lathing is done. For example, under the soft tiles, a substrate is made of thin plywood.
The roof structure is selected individually. But the fewer bends and angles in the structure, the more reliable it will be. The simplest option is a shed roof or a gable roof, they are assembled by hand.
The rafter system is assembled from the laying of ceiling joists. A bar with a section of 100x50 mm is suitable for work. The technical side will be 50 mm. The front and the frame of the rafter system are assembled from material with a section of 150x100 mm. They are attached to the Mauerlat, which is laid on the top of the wall. A bar with a section of 150x150 mm is taken as a Mauerlat. The most difficult thing in installation is to install the first rafters and a matrix. You can fasten the rafter system to the walls using metal brackets or anchor bolts. The lags and the Mauerlat are connected to each other using a thorn-groove lock. Readers can read more in the article on roof installation.
The finished roof is insulated and waterproofing is done. This is necessary to reduce heat loss in the house. Next, they proceed to additional insulation and finishing. The wooden house will completely shrink after three years. It is not recommended to carry out grandiose design finishing work at this time, but it is already possible to live in the house.
What how much
As you know, the road will be mastered by the walker, but the owner's hands are not always sharpened for construction work, or the work eats up all free time. Specialists will complete the assembly of the log house in a few weeks, and the quality of the work will be high. The installation price will depend on what work needs to be done. There are two types of standard log house installation services:
- Full construction.
- Simple assembly.
The service differs in the list of works. Turnkey installation includes: foundation (casting, formwork), box assembly, rafter system, roofing, subfloors and ceiling, installation of windows and doorways, all internal partitions. A simple assembly can include individual jobs. For example, the foundation is made by hand, and the box and the rafter system are assembled by specialists.