There are many in various ways fastening drywall with your own hands, but not everyone is suitable for installing sheets on the ceiling surface. Sheets of plasterboard can be easily screwed or glued to the surface of the walls, but gluing plasterboard sheets to the ceiling with your own hands is inconvenient and even dangerous, because under the influence of vibrations and under the weight of the sheets, the adhesive layer can crack.
And this can lead to the collapse of the ceiling structure. Only two methods are used, using which it is possible to install plasterboard in sheets on the ceiling surface:
- by mounting on a supporting profile frame;
- using screws directly into the ceiling.
Technology for self-installation of drywall by screwing sheets of material directly to the surface of the base ceiling.
The method of screwing plasterboard sheets directly to the ceiling surface can only be used on ceilings made of wood. This method is simpler and does not require pre-installation load-bearing frame. But it can only be used on wooden ceilings.
The surface of the base ceiling must be completely flat, otherwise the surface of the new flat surface will not have. To Work with sheet plasterboard easier and more convenient for two people.
Tools required for installing a plasterboard ceiling by attaching directly to the ceiling surface:
- cordless screwdriver with a set of attachments (you can use a network one, but this is inconvenient);
- construction knife - for cutting sheets to the required size;
- marker;
- simple pencil;
- construction ruler;
- construction square;
- self-tapping screws for drywall and wood;
- dowel - nails;
- building level;
- marking cord.
When screwing plasterboard sheets Wood screws with a length of 7 to 10 cm are used to the ceiling surface. It is more convenient to do this work while standing on a table. It is advisable to select the height of the table in such a way that, standing on it, you can lightly touch the surface of the ceiling with your hands.
In advance, you need to prepare for work two rods with a length equal to the height of the room. They will be used as supports for the plasterboard sheet. It is convenient to make supports from a metal profile. They should be similar in shape to a mop, the length of the handle being equal to the height of the room and with a crossbar of 50-60 cm. The rods must be installed against the wall in the place where the installation will be carried out, so as not to interfere with the lifting of the plasterboard sheet.
For installation, you need to lift the sheet of drywall with your hands above your head. At the same time, holding it on your head with one hand, use the other hand to substitute the prepared support. Pressed against the ceiling with supports on both sides, the sheet will not fall. You can align the sheet more accurately by loosening the supports. Then you can screw it on. Fastening plasterboard ceiling without a supporting frame and with a profile frame, the difference is in the length of the screws used. When attaching plasterboard sheets directly to the ceiling surface, you need to rely on the thickness of the sheet, so self-tapping screws 7-10 cm long are used for installation.
A method of attaching plasterboard to the ceiling by screwing it to a supporting frame.
When marking the secondary guide profiles of the frame, it is necessary to take into account the static load, which will depend on the thickness of the sheet and the type of material plasterboard boards. To perform this type of drywall fastening, you will need the same tools that were used when attaching sheets directly to the surface of the base ceiling.
Materials for installing plasterboard sheets to the ceiling surface:
- plasterboard in sheets;
- for mounting the frame: ceiling hangers, guides and main profiles, connecting elements (couplings, crabs and brackets);
- insulating materials;
- soundproofing tape;
- tape for sealing seams;
- gypsum putty mixture;
- perforated metal corner.
Apply markings yourself.
Marking involves drawing a horizontal line on the surface of the walls, which, when installing the frame, will correspond to the boundary of the outer surface of the suspended ceiling, as well as marking the places where the wall profile will be located, the main and secondary guide profiles of the frame.
When drawing marking lines for the secondary guide profiles of the frame, it is necessary to take into account the static load on the structure, which will depend on the thickness of the sheet and the type of material of the plasterboard boards.
Do-it-yourself installation of a supporting frame on the ceiling.
Frame assembly includes the following work:
- drilling holes for dowels - nails in the base ceiling;
- fastening the dowel - with nails of ceiling hangers;
- installation of main and supporting profiles.
There are several types of metal profile frame, which differ from each other mainly only in the way of attaching the main profiles to the supporting profiles and the type of ceiling suspensions used.
Two main schemes are usually used:
- secondary profile guides are located perpendicular to the main profiles on different heights and then connected to each other using U-shaped connectors. This scheme is used when there is no great need to fight to save height in the room. As profile sections, the secondary frame guides are placed between the main profiles and oriented perpendicular to them in the same horizontal plane.
- The profiles are connected using X-shaped couplings. This method is used when the height of the room needs to be saved.
Photo of a frame with crab connectors for attaching plasterboard sheets to the ceiling.
Installation of the structure begins with the preparation of all holes on the surface of the base ceiling. Then, using dowels, the installation of ceiling suspensions is carried out. For this purpose, use a hammer drill, screwdriver and hammer.
The design of ceiling suspensions should allow adjustment of the height of the main ceiling profiles and thereby achieve a perfectly horizontally aligned surface of the mounted suspended ceiling.
Photo of hangers for the frame when attaching plasterboard sheets to the ceiling.
Then along the walls of the room, according to pre-applied markings, guide profiles are installed in a horizontal plane. To obtain the maximum possible sound insulation, it is advisable to install these profiles on foam rubber or polyurethane foam self-adhesive soundproofing tape. When the tape is glued, the profiles need to be fixed to the walls using a hammer drill.
Installation of dowels and nails should be done correctly using a hammer (plastic part), and the screw should be screwed into it with a screwdriver or screwdriver. The guide metal profiles have already punched holes designed to accommodate dowels and nails. If necessary, drill additional holes.
Each profile must be secured to the surface using at least three dowels. It is convenient to reduce the length of the profile by using metal cutting scissors.
The method of fastening depends on the design of the supporting frame. Then you need to start installation ceiling profiles, which need to be inserted into the grooves of ceiling hangers and wall-mounted guide profiles. If necessary, the profile can be lengthened by splicing two profile sections, twisting them with self-tapping screws and using a CD connector. After that, secondary frame profiles are attached to the main profiles.
The choice of fastening method depends on the chosen design of the supporting frame:
- when connecting profiles at different horizontal levels, use connecting P - shaped brackets, which fit into grooves on the supporting, lower profiles of the frame;
- To connect the frame profiles at one horizontal level, special X-shaped couplings are used, which are secured to the secondary frame profiles with metal screws.
Having completed the installation, it is necessary to use a building level to check the horizontal position of the frame and, if necessary, adjust the height of the ceiling suspensions. Insulating Additional materials are used when it is necessary to manufacture a structure with increased sound insulation or properties.
The installation of these materials is carried out after laying all communications on the ceiling (electrical wiring, ventilation, alarm system cables, etc.).
Do-it-yourself installation of plasterboard sheets on the ceiling.
To install frames with complex surface shapes, it is necessary to use special curved profile or make a frame from straight standard profiles mounted on curvilinearly cut plasterboard sheets.
Sheets of drywall must be correctly marked in advance by placing them on a flat, smooth surface and using a square, a construction tape measure and a simple ruler to draw marking lines. After which the sheet of drywall is cut with a knife along the marking line.
If a knife was used to cut the sheet, then the sheet of material cut along the marking line is laid along the cut line on the edge of some surface, for example, a table, and broken, after which the cardboard is cut using a knife on the side opposite to the break.
From the edges of plasterboard sheets cut with a plane, approximately a third of the total thickness of the slab is chamfered at an angle of 45°, if the assembly seams are planned to be finished using sealing tape, or approximately 2/3 of the total thickness of the slab at an angle of 22.5 ° if tape is not used when filling joints.
The cut edges of the material are cleaned with a rasp flat shape. Round holes in drywall necessary, for example, for installing lamps, are cut with a special cutter mounted on a drill.
Drywall sheets are mounted on a level-checked supporting frame with drywall screws, using a screwdriver and a screwdriver. In this case, you need to move sequentially from edge to edge to avoid deformation of the sheet.
It is recommended to fasten the plasterboard sheets perpendicular to the supporting guide profiles. If a second layer of drywall is applied, the installation seams between them must be shifted relative to each other. Each layer of drywall is fixed separately.
It is necessary to achieve a tight fit of the plasterboard sheet to supporting frame. During installation, the screws should be spaced from each other at a distance of 25 cm. The screws are screwed in first from the side of the U-shaped main profile, while a small groove with a thickness of approximately 1 mm should be left between adjacent plasterboard sheets.
To avoid chipping the material, screws must be placed at a distance of at least 15 mm from the edge of the cut sheet. Among other things, screws into a plasterboard sheet must be twisted strictly perpendicular to its plane, maintaining a right angle.
The depth of insertion of the screw should not be less than 10 mm. The head of the screw is inserted into the slab of material by approximately 1 mm (for convenience during subsequent puttying). At the joints of drywall, adhesive-based separating tape should be applied. In the same way, it is necessary to separate elements from plasterboard sheets with different functions, e.g. suspended ceiling and wall covering.
In order to do metal carcass complex shape you need to use bent plastic profile or bend the profile and drywall yourself.
Sealing plasterboard installation seams.
Before you begin sealing drywall joints, you need to complete all “wet work” in the room. And also check whether all the screws that fastened the drywall to the frame are recessed and how well and firmly the drywall is fastened. Since the drywall that is sold has different kinds edges, then further work will depend on what kind of edge the drywall has.
Beveled edges of a sheet of drywall and edges that are cut at an angle of 45 degrees must be sealed with putty using tape. Semicircular edges of a sheet of drywall and edges that are cut at an angle of 22 degrees can be sealed with putty without using tape. In order to properly finish the ceiling with plasterboard, you need a little patience, accurate calculations and information from professionals from the Internet.
Video on attaching plasterboard boards to the ceiling.
Drywall is very easy to use facing material. In addition, the price/quality ratio is significantly ahead of that of other building materials. Often, ceilings are made from plasterboard boards, since thanks to the evenness of the material, it is possible to create perfect surface. Today we will talk about how to attach drywall to the ceiling.
Installation of plasterboard ceilings
Let's look at the arrangement of a simple single-level ceiling from plasterboard sheets. Knowing how drywall is attached to the ceiling, you can create not only ordinary single-level, but also complex multi-level structures. But to carry out such work efficiently, you should know how to attach drywall to the ceiling.
Ceiling markings
Since in concrete floors If there are voids, then in order to prevent the dowels from falling into them, you can use special flared or impact dowels. But in the second case, the screw should be thicker.
After the profiles are secured, proceed with the electrical wiring. For greater safety, the wires are hidden in a corrugated channel. Now let's look at how to attach drywall to the ceiling.
Installation of plasterboard sheets
It is necessary to take into account that drywall is a fairly large material, and therefore it is better to enlist the help of a partner. Attaching a plasterboard ceiling alone is not very convenient, especially if you are doing it for the first time.
The sheet of drywall is lifted by two people. After which one person holds the material, and the second one screws it. Please note that the outermost CD profile is used to secure two sheets, and therefore the edge of the drywall must reach the middle of the plank. The second half of the profile is designed to fix the next sheet of material.
How to attach drywall to the ceiling? To secure one sheet, as a rule, 60 self-tapping screws 25 mm long are required. They are screwed in at a distance of 30 cm from each other flush with the plane of the ceiling, but it is important not to overdo it - you cannot break through the paper of the material.
Since when attaching drywall to the ceiling it is important not to damage the paper layer, it is necessary to use a special screwdriver or screwdriver attachment. It has a special lampshade, which, when screwing in the screws, will rest against the sheet, thereby controlling the depth of recessing of the hat.
When installing the sheet, do not forget about the need to remove wiring for lighting. If during
The use of drywall as a material for finishing works in the process of repair and construction is quite wide. This material is used for cladding walls, forming niches and partitions, as well as cladding ceilings.
In order to figure out how to attach drywall to the ceiling, you should carefully study the recommendations on this issue. this work is not particularly difficult, but non-professionals will have to work hard when learning a new skill.
A surface created from plasterboard sheets has many advantages:
- the ceiling will be perfectly flat - this quality of coating is difficult to achieve by any other means;
- the ability to place communications and insulation, hiding them under the covering;
- the opportunity to create unusual designs in accordance with your own ideas or design project. It is possible to form devices from one or several levels, giving them various colors and shades using finishing;
- creation of a unique lighting system, which is carried out using special lamps. It is possible to choose not only the power, but also the direction of the light flow, as well as appearance lamp;
- You can create a plasterboard ceiling in any room. There are special varieties of this material that are moisture-resistant and fire-resistant, which makes it possible to install such a ceiling in the bathroom, kitchen, sauna, and so on;
- in conditions wet room You can also use ordinary sheets, impregnating them with a special composition. This option may be more economical than purchasing special sheets. The issue of waterproofing such surfaces deserves separate consideration.
Technology for attaching gypsum boards to the ceiling
- Marking the work area using a level.
- Fastening the UD profile along the perimeter of the ceiling.
- Attaching suspensions to the ceiling.
- Installation of CD profiles to guides and hangers.
- Fastening sheets of drywall to load-bearing profiles.
- Puttying joints and places where screws are installed.
- Finishing the surface.
To obtain a high-quality result, you need to adhere to the sequence of work, and also take a responsible approach to the choice of drywall and fastenings. Saving on a structure such as a ceiling should be considered carefully, otherwise excessive savings may affect the reliability and service life of the entire structure.
How to choose a profile and components for drywall
Creating a structure of several levels requires the presence of three types of fasteners: initial, main and longitudinal profile.
- Profiles that perform a load-bearing function must meet strength requirements and withstand the weight of the entire structure. Incorrect selection of these elements can lead to deformation, for example, sagging of the elements, which outside will appear as cracks or bends.
- In addition to the lack of aesthetic appeal, such defects are fraught with damage to the integrity of sheets of material.
- Attaching the suspensions to the base of the ceiling is done with anchors or dowels. All fasteners must be made of metal. Plastic parts will not provide the necessary strength.
The guide profiles are attached to the hangers, and the plasterboard panels are already attached to them. You should not opt for sheets that are too thin. Sheets 12.5 mm wide will provide sufficient structural rigidity.
Required Tools
- screwdriver;
- level;
- pencil and measuring tape.
Often, fastening elements are provided with profiles; if they are missing, you must purchase them yourself.
Marking the ceiling surface and installing a frame for drywall
- Like all finishing work involving drywall, ceiling installation begins with markings.
- The base line is drawn on the wall with a distance of 10-12 cm from the ceiling. This line is a guideline for installing the guides, which must be done by checking the level.
- Load-bearing parts must be inserted into profiles placed around the perimeter of the room, leaving a gap for possible deformation of the sheets during expansion.
- The plasterboard sheets are secured along the supporting profiles. The sheets are attached to guides across the longitudinal structures. In this way, a single-level ceiling is formed.
Attaching drywall to the ceiling without a frame
In the case where the premises have small sizes and the formation of a frame can significantly reduce it; it is possible to attach plasterboard to the ceiling with glue.
- The surface should not have obvious unevenness, and should also be protected from moisture and freezing.
- Before applying the glue, it is important to clean the ceiling from dust, dirt and greasy stains. If the ceiling was covered with putty or primer, you need to wait until it dries completely.
- To cover a ceiling that has significant unevenness, you can build a kind of frame from plasterboard. You need to cut strips 10 cm wide, then stick them on the surface in the form of a grid with square cells with sides of about 50 cm. The process should be controlled using a level.
- Drywall sheets are cut sharp knife. The cardboard layer is cut on one side, the sheet is broken at the point of the cut, after which a cut is made on the reverse side.
- Applying glue to the surface is done with a special spatula with teeth.
- The sheet is secured to the wall using a holder, after which you need to check its horizontalness using a level.
- Lumps and other irregularities can be eliminated by tapping the surface with a hammer through a wooden block.
- The seams formed between the sheets of drywall should not be arranged crosswise, so the installation must be done in a checkerboard pattern.
Fastening drywall to construction foam
Another material with which you can strengthen plasterboard sheets on the ceiling is polyurethane foam. Before performing such fastening, you need to level the surface and treat it with a primer.
- Before applying the composition, you need to make several holes on the surface of the sheet.
- Strips of foam rubber necessary to create a spring effect when leveling the structure should be glued to the back side.
- The sheet is then attached to the ceiling with washers, leaving a cavity of approximately 10-15 cm.
By adjusting the plane of the sheet with a level, you can fill the cavity with foam. After the composition has completely dried, you can unscrew the screws and screw in the self-tapping screws.
The finished surface should be covered with a layer of primer, the seams should be covered with reinforcing tape and the surface should be covered first with one layer of putty, and after drying, with a second layer. After drying, you need to sand it with fine sandpaper.
Today, the use of plasterboard sheets when carrying out repairs in a cottage, country house or apartment is the most faithful and economical solution. Through the said building material You can easily remove all defects uneven surface, having received level base for subsequent finishing. In order to understand how to properly attach drywall to the ceiling, you will need to identify the features of this raw material and master installation options.
Gypsum plasterboard includes gypsum filler with various binding additives and facing layers of cardboard. The weight of one sheet ranges from 12 to 35 kg depending on its thickness: 6 mm, 9 mm and 12.5 mm.
The widespread use of the presented material is due to a number of important advantages:
- the ceiling surface will be perfectly flat;
- providing opportunities for placement and subsequent hiding of communication systems;
- providing heat and sound insulation;
- use in different types premises due to the variety of types: classic, fire-resistant, moisture-resistant and universal;
- ease of installation;
- implementation of complex design projects on creating multi-level ceilings and unique lighting systems.
Preparatory work is important stage any construction event and determine the entire course of further installation. They include:
- Selection of the necessary tools and fasteners - a building level, a tape measure, a drill with a hammer drill and a cross-shaped bit, a jigsaw or a hacksaw with a small blade width, dowel-nails and self-tapping screws.
- Marking the ceiling. Considering that in most cases ceiling surface has some unevenness, the first step is to determine its lower limit. For this purpose, the distance to the floorboard is measured from each corner using a tape measure. Having determined the lowest point, it is worth securing a guide beam or profile around the perimeter of the intended space.
Correct marking of the positions of the guide elements is the key to the success of subsequent installation. It is worth remembering that the procedure described above requires a leveled floor!
Ceiling in wooden house can be easily sheathed using plasterboard boards. This finish not only has an aesthetic appearance, but also provides a natural microclimate in the room.
Currently, the following types of fastening plasterboard to a wooden ceiling surface are used:
- through adhesive compositions;
- on wooden profile slats;
Adhesive installation method
Installation of plasterboard slabs without a profile requires the use of special adhesives and the presence of a perfectly flat surface to be glued. In most cases, gypsum mastic is used as an adhesive mass, which includes bone glue and gypsum stone chips. Applying the mixture should start from the edges of the sheet in small cakes at intervals of 30 cm from each other, gradually moving towards the center. After which the plate is pressed onto the prepared surface. To increase the adhesive properties, it would be useful to prime the ceiling in advance.
Since plasterboard sheets have significant weight, in the finishing option wooden ceiling To reduce the pressure created, you can divide the slab into two equal parts, which will greatly simplify the installation procedure and the material will stick faster.
The presented design allows you to “hide” all ceiling defects, greatly saving its height. It is advisable to use a rack frame when constructing single-level surfaces. The main advantage of this method is its low cost. However, when arranging it, a well-dried timber is required, otherwise the supporting elements will soon become moldy and deformed.
We place the main beam along the entire plane of the ceiling in increments of 80 cm. Then we fasten it at an angle of 90° relative to it at a distance of 50 cm from each other. load-bearing partitions, which will subsequently become the holding base for the drywall.
Having finished installing the frame, we proceed to attaching the slabs. Screws are screwed in around the perimeter of the sheet at intervals of 15 cm in a checkerboard pattern so that the head of the rod is slightly buried in the material. Subsequently, these places are puttied, and the entire surface acquires a smooth appearance.
When attaching drywall, you should leave a distance between joints of about 5–7 mm. Subsequently, these gaps are easily sealed with putty, providing better adhesion to the entire plane.
The method for assembling the structure is approximately the same as for arranging wooden frame However, there are a number of nuances. The guide profiles are attached in increments of 40 cm, so that one classic plate with a length of 120 cm is fixed on four such metal slats.
Having finished arranging the guide bases, we begin to fix the hanging devices. Attach them to the ceiling using dowel nails at a distance of 40 cm from each other. Next, the supporting profile is attached so that its ends are strictly on the guide rail at an angle of 90°, and its body is in the hangers. All frame elements are fastened to each other with special screws on metal.
During the execution of all installation work The horizontal profiles must be checked with a level, and places of expected load must be reinforced with jumpers or anchors.
The procedure for installing plasterboard sheets requires the use of two pairs of hands, however, to sheathe the ceiling alone, you will need to use additional holding devices. One of these homemade devices are the platform and supports.
This option involves making a small structure from a pair of boards, hinges and supports. When opened, the height of the retractable platform should be 5–6 cm below the ceiling level.
When manufacturing, do not forget to take into account that this interval also includes, along with the design, the width of the plasterboard sheet.
The process of lifting the slab is carried out in several stages. First, the first selection is set to hand height, then the main one. After this, we climb onto the prepared scaffolding and calmly attach the drywall to the frame.
In conclusion, I would like to note that attaching plasterboard sheets to an equipped frame is the most reliable finishing option than using adhesives, especially in a wooden house. Due to the fact that buildings made of wood “live their own lives” and are constantly in motion, no one knows how the resulting adhesive base may behave after some time.
Video
In the provided video materials, you can learn the intricacies of making a plasterboard ceiling, as well as how to attach plasterboard alone:
Scheme
In the diagrams you can see some features of attaching drywall and frame to the ceiling:
Installing drywall on the ceiling is one of the most labor-intensive types of finishing work. Therefore, in order to eliminate errors and minimize the cost of materials and time, you should carefully mark the ceiling, prepare necessary tools and materials. Immediately before attaching the drywall to the ceiling, check everything again, since errors made during the installation process are either very difficult or even impossible to eliminate.
Installing a plasterboard ceiling is one of the most labor-intensive processes.
Options for the supporting frame
Working with plasterboard slabs involves three options for attaching the slabs to the base:
- using adhesives;
- on a wooden frame;
- on metallic profile.
Each method has its own advantages, but is only suitable for certain conditions.
Installation with glue reduces the height of the room the least, but requires that the ceiling surface have high strength and evenness. Using glue, unevenness of no more than 1 - 1.5 cm is eliminated. It is impossible to install slabs on plastered ceilings using the adhesive method, since gypsum board has a decent weight and can come off along with the plaster. Also, with this installation it is impossible to install spotlights.
A wooden frame for attaching drywall to the ceiling is suitable only in rooms with a small area and constant temperature and low humidity. Wood changes its linear dimensions greatly with fluctuations in temperature and humidity, so with a high degree of probability the installed ceiling will become covered with cracks.
It is best to make a frame from metal profiles - this is a lighter material with which you can make multi-level ceilings from plasterboard.
It is much better to attach plasterboard to the ceiling using special metal profiles, which allow you to create multi-level surfaces at any height from the ceiling. Strength, lightness and ease of fastening bring the metal profile to a leading position among materials for making load-bearing frames.
Materials and tools
The main material for constructing ceilings is ceiling plasterboard 9.5 mm thick. The thicker one has a lot of weight, and the thinner one is arched and has a small thickness. Both require the installation of additional profiles to reduce the load on the frame or reduce the likelihood of deflections.
The following materials will be needed:
- guide profile PNP or UD with dimensions 27×28 mm;
- supporting profile PP or CD with dimensions 7×60 mm;
- hangers for attaching load-bearing profiles to the ceiling (butterflies);
- dowels or self-tapping screws for attaching the UD profile to the wall and suspensions to the ceiling (depending on the design of the walls and ceilings);
- cross-shaped connectors for joining transverse load-bearing profiles or for extending a profile when long length premises;
- self-tapping screws for connecting profiles to each other, attaching to hangers or crabs (the so-called bugs or fleas);
- self-tapping screws for attaching gypsum boards to the frame, 20–25 mm long.
You will also need quite a lot of tools and equipment:
- a screwdriver or drill with variable speed control to screw the drywall to the ceiling;
- a hammer drill or impact drill for drilling holes for dowels;
- water or laser level;
- marking cord;
- stepladder or platform;
- supports to hold the slabs during installation;
- Phillips screwdriver;
- metal scissors for cutting profiles;
- a long cord to control the evenness of the installation of supporting profiles.
Marking and installation of the supporting frame
Marking for fastening the frame begins with determining the installation level of the guide profiles. To do this, on the walls starting from any corner using water or laser level transfer the marks to the remaining corners. Then, using a marking cord, mark a control line along the entire perimeter.
Carrying out calculations and drawings is one of the most important points When installing a gypsum board ceiling, making the slightest mistake can ruin the entire final result.
If installation is not intended spotlights and it is necessary to reduce the height of the room to a minimum, then the supporting profiles can be mounted at a distance of about 30 mm from the lowest point of the ceiling. Most tips boil down to finding this lowest point and moving it to the nearest wall and then knocking the level off from there. But nowhere does it say how to do this.
It is much easier to mark a temporary horizontal line around the perimeter at a distance of 20 - 25 cm from the ceiling. By pulling the cord between any points on opposite walls, you can quickly find the lower level of the ceiling and move the temporary horizontal line to any value.
To attach the hangers, markings are also required. Here you need to proceed from the size of the slabs and the width of the walls. It may happen that you need to fasten a strip of sheet less than 20 - 25 cm wide. This is not advisable. It is better to cut plasterboard sheets symmetrically from opposite walls, ensuring that the minimum width of the attached strip is at least 25 cm.
The position of the profiles relative to the slabs may be different. It is most practical to lay the sheets so that the supporting profiles run across the gypsum board at a distance of 50 cm (for sheets 2.5 m long).
Between the laid profiles, jumpers are installed at a distance of half the width of the gypsum board. The connection of the jumpers is done using crabs.
Installation of plasterboard boards
Attaching the slabs to the frame is best done by two people, but if you have supports and some experience, you can do it alone.
The slabs are laid so that the edges are in the middle of the profile and there is a gap of 3–4 mm between adjacent slabs. In adjacent rows, the sheets are placed staggered so that the seams do not end up on the same line. Along the long sides of the gypsum board there is usually a chamfer or thinning for easy sealing of seams. For the same purpose, you also need to chamfer the ends with a special plane or assembly knife. The chamfers are removed while the slabs are not yet secured.
One person can install a plasterboard ceiling using supports, but if you are doing this for the first time, we recommend doing it with someone’s help.
The gypsum boards are fastened to the ceiling using self-tapping screws with a pitch of no more than 155 mm. The screws should be located at a distance of 20 mm from the edge of the sheet. The heads of the screws must be completely recessed into the surface, but must not break through the paper layer. If this happens, then the screw must be screwed into another, undamaged place. To avoid defects in work, you should not use the screwdriver at maximum speed. You need to experimentally determine the required friction clutch force, or it is better to use an attachment with a special skirt that does not allow the screw to be deepened beyond a certain value. The protrusions of the nozzle should be smooth, without wear. Otherwise, the self-tapping screw will not hold tightly and will often break off.
Before attaching drywall to the ceiling, be sure to check the correctness of the electrical wiring and mark the places where lamps will be installed in the future.
Common Mistakes
The most common mistake when installing drywall is incorrect calculations and markings, when a section of several centimeters wide remains.
The second mistake is attaching the sheets directly to the guide profile. Firstly, the fastening is obtained at the very edge of the sheet, where it will crumble, and secondly, the rigid adhesion of the ceiling to the partitions and walls can lead to cracks due to temperature changes. It is better to attach gypsum boards to profiles that are laid in close proximity to the guides.