Irina Okuneva, Ph.D. biol. Sci., Senior Researcher, GBS im. N. V. Tsitsina RAS
Old lilac bushes in gardens are not uncommon. After all, this plant was willingly planted by our great-grandfathers. They admired the flowering, enjoyed the aroma, sometimes even fertilized ... But they almost never cut it off. So the lilac grew old, the shoots and inflorescences were crushed, the clumsy trunks were exposed ...
But the lilac is a shrub, and this means that it does not have a single trunk for life, but several. Over time, some trunks grow old and dry up, others, young ones, appear to replace them. They are formed either from coppice shoots at the base of the bush (in own-rooted plants), or from dormant buds on trunks.
If you manage this shift, cutting lilacs at least once every 2-3 years ( the best time for this - spring, immediately after the snow melts), the question of rejuvenation will not arise at all.
But what should be done in the "neglected case" in order to return the lilacs to their former luxury? It depends on how your bush looks.
Option 1
"Thickets"
If we have a bush in front of us, overgrown with offspring, then first you need to get close to it. However, the entire growth should not be indiscriminately removed. Usually you can find at least one, or even several strong trunks that can become worthy replacement old. It is better to mark them with bright ribbons so as not to pull them out in the heat of the moment. The rest of the coppice shoots methodically pull out of the ground along with the root and cut as close as possible to the point of departure from the trunk. If desired, these offspring can be used for breeding. The main condition is that the bush must be own-rooted, and not grafted.
An array of growths of different ages, in the center of which there are old, including dry stems. Photo: From the personal archive / Irina Okuneva
Having freed the old trunks, we proceed to the next steps (options 2, 3).
Option 2
Young verticals
If old stems have vertical branches formed from dormant buds, this is wonderful. They will give us the opportunity to rejuvenate the bushes without losing flowering. But before you grab the saw, evaluate the condition of each branch. As with undergrowth, it is helpful to mark with ribbons the parts that should remain.
We remove stems, branches in whole or parts thereof, if they:
- dry, damaged or broken;
- have very small annual increments;
- intersect and touch with others;
- uncomfortable or ugly stick out.
We leave branches that:
- give a good increase in the upper part, where flowering is expected;
- well located.
Several lopsided trunks with young vertical growths. Photo: From the personal archive / Irina Okuneva
Option 3
like a tree
If lilac bushes have been pruned incorrectly all their lives, that is, instead of replacing aging stems, young shoots and shoots have been removed, the plant gradually loses its ability to recover. Such lilacs with a single trunk may not withstand heavy pruning. You can try to remove a few branches in their crown to stimulate the awakening of dormant buds in the lower part of the trunk, if they are still there. If there are two or more stems, remove the weakest and wait for new growths to appear.
Rejuvenation of depleted bushes can take several years. At this time, you need to provide them with good care.
One or more deformed trunks without young branches at all, weakly growing. Photo: From the personal archive / Irina Okuneva
Lilac is unpretentious, caring for it is quite simple, and therefore this shrub grows in many regions. But here's one point in the care of the plant must not be forgotten. The reason for the death of lilacs or simply a deterioration in their appearance (for example, a decrease in the size of inflorescences) is too dense a crown. Therefore, timely pruning of lilacs is so important. In spring or autumn - when is it better to carry out this procedure? How to create a suitable form? How to protect the plant from possible negative consequences clippings? Let's try to understand all these issues.
Pruning before flowering
Lilac pruning can be done in different months. Each of these procedures has its own meaning.
For example, pruning before flowering (i.e. in early spring, between mid-March and early April) is important for several reasons.
- It leads to more intensive growth of side shoots.
- It helps to leave in advance only those branches on which buds appear. So everything nutrients received by the plant will go exactly to the growth of these parts.
- At this stage, it is easier to form a crown.
You need to start pruning by removing all damaged branches. If they are broken, blackened, or the branches have grown in a crooked shape, get rid of them.
You also need to cut off very old branches. They can be identified by the following features:
- curved shape;
- the presence of lichen on them.
But young shoots that have appeared over the past year can also be under attack. For example, if they grow in the center of the bush. They do not get sunlight, nutrients also reach in small quantities. And there is not enough room for intensive growth. They only overload the bush.
It is also better to get rid of shoots that have not survived the winter cold. They can no longer be revived.
But cutting the upper parts of the branches, shortening the bush, is not worth it during this period. After all, there are also kidneys.
Pruning after flowering
The next pruning should be done after flowering. The best time to do this is between the end of May and the middle of June.
During this pruning, the target is no longer old and damaged branches, because they are disposed of in early spring. Now you need to get rid of the inflorescences that dry out after flowering. If this is not done in time, then seeds will begin to form on them. And all the nutrients received by the plant will be transferred to them. Because of this, you may not be able to wait for re-blooming in the spring.
It is also after flowering that long branches can be shortened. Now there is nothing to worry about the emerging kidneys. After pruning, you will notice that voids are visible in the crown. There is nothing to be afraid of - by next spring they will overgrow, new shoots will form.
When is it better to prune after flowering - immediately after it ends, in spring, or can you wait until autumn? For beginner gardeners, this is a serious question. Pruning in the fall is not strictly prohibited. And if you did not have time to shorten the branches immediately after flowering, then you should do this in autumn period. But there is a risk that you cut off parts with already forming buds. For this reason, flowering in the spring may not begin at all. So it is better to prune before mid-summer.
Formative pruning
Pruning is needed not only to get rid of damaged branches. With it, you can change the shape of the lilac. Typically, such procedures begin when the bush reaches the age of three years.
Pruning must be planned in advance because it will take several years to create the shape.
- In the first year, you will have to get rid of a large number of branches. Ideally, no more than four should be left. These should be the strongest and most even branches on which there is no damage. Also, they should all be directed in different directions. That is, even if there are two branches that are ideal for forming a bush, but they grow side by side and are directed in the same direction, one of them will have to be disposed of. It is also necessary to shorten the remaining branches by about half. They should all end at about the same level.
- By the second year, branching will appear at the tops of the branches left. It will also have to be worked on, leaving only those forks that have become the strongest.
- In the third year and beyond, you need to repeat the same actions - get rid of weak growths, maintaining the necessary shape.
In the future, you also need to control the resulting shape and prevent the formation of a large number of branches.
Stamp pruning
Another type of form is the standard one. This way you can get a small tree. First, it is more unusual and beautiful shape. Secondly, in this way you protect the bush from external influences. For example, if your lilac was chosen by a dog, because of which the lower branches constantly rot.
- In the first year, immediately after planting, cut off all side branches. You need to leave only the central one, which is the strongest and strongest. During this year, remove young shoots that appear laterally on the remaining stem.
- In the second year, when the lilac grows to the required height, you need to stop its growth in this direction. To do this, pinch the bush, that is, remove the top. As a result, the shoots will begin to grow to the sides. But you will have to get rid of most of the shoots, keeping no more than four of the strongest. It is these branches that will become the basis of the tree.
- In the future, you need to act in the same way as with the usual formative pruning. That is, every year to process these skeletal branches, leaving the strongest growths on them, to adjust the length of the branches.
The height of the lilac in the second year should be no higher than a meter, but not less than sixty centimeters. If the lilac is too high, it will be difficult to adjust its shape. A low stem does not look very nice.
Anti-aging pruning
Over time, the lilac, which was not initially shaped and pruned in a timely manner, grows too much. Its branches grow in all directions, differ in length, appear a large number of old and damaged branches. Trimming the old bush will help to rejuvenate. The circuit is pretty simple.
- It is also necessary to cut the bush before spring, before flowering begins. And if during the usual annual pruning it is not recommended to shorten the branches so as not to remove the emerging buds, then with anti-aging pruning you will have to do this. Yes, you will get fewer shoots. But this is a really drastic pruning that will bring positive results next spring.
- Before pruning, you need to clarify whether the seedling is grafted. To do this, you need to examine the trunk of the lilac. At the grafting site, you will find a change in the thickness of the trunk, as well as differences in the bark - below the grafting level, it may be of a different color or with a different pattern. You can cut such a lilac only above the vaccination site. Otherwise, it will lose its features and grow into an ordinary bush.
- Very old and damaged branches must be removed without leaving stumps. Stronger specimens, which will become the basis for rejuvenated lilacs, can be cut by half or a third.
- In the future, adjust the shape of the bush every year. On the full recovery lilacs will need about one or two seasons.
Section processing
After pruning, the wounds remaining at the site of cutting the branches heal over time. However, this is not such a fast process, and during the period when new shoots have not yet formed, the lilac is in danger. Damage can be especially serious after the removal of thick branches, because fully formed wounds may not heal. Viruses and fungal spores often enter these openings. A collision with them can lead to the death of the bush, which is why it is so important to process the pruning site.
- After removing or shortening the branch, work the cut a little with a very sharp knife.
- If moisture does not get into this area, then after about ten hours cracks form on it. This means that the top layer, which is approximately 5 millimeters, has dried up.
- After that, it is necessary to process the cut point garden pitch.
Garden Var is special agent, which accelerates wound healing and prevents pests from entering. It is sold in gardening stores. But you can cook it yourself. This will require three ingredients:
- rosin;
- wax;
- vegetable oil.
For one part of rosin, two parts of wax and oil are required. Melt the rosin, add the wax. Pour the oil into the resulting liquid, mix and turn off the heat.
To prevent the mixture from stratifying, after removing from heat, pour it into water. Then drain it, leaving the var to dry. Store in closed containers.
Conclusion
An important procedure in the care of lilacs is pruning. It helps to regulate the growth of the bush by getting rid of old branches that absorb nutrients in vain. Also, with the help of cropping, you can change the shape of the lilac. You can get both an ordinary bush and a beautiful tree. Pruning will help rejuvenate the lilac.
It is better to carry out this procedure in the spring - before flowering and after it. You can cut the lilac in the fall, but then there is a risk that it will not bloom this season.
It is extremely important to process the cut point so that the bush is not attacked by viruses.
Correct planting of lilacs
It is desirable to plant lilacs either in sunny areas or in light partial shade. The plant cannot be placed in the shade.
The pit for planting should be deep, with rotted loose earth. The plant does not tolerate the close occurrence of groundwater, so low areas are unsuitable for it. Planting lilacs is best done either in early spring, or at the end of summer - early autumn, September is most suitable for this. If you decide to start planting in the spring, then buy seedlings in a container so that it is closed. root system. Otherwise, there is a possibility that the lilac will take root poorly or die.
After you have planted a shrub, be sure to water it. You can add any drug that stimulates root formation to the water for irrigation. It is desirable to cover the top layer of soil with hay with a layer of 6-8 cm, which will protect the soil from drying out and weeds, and then, turning into humus, will be food for lilacs.
This plant can grow in one place for a long time, sometimes all its life.
Lilac care after flowering
Lilac is needed regular pruning. In the 3rd year, strong numerous shoots appear in the bush. They will later form skeletal branches.
It is pruning after flowering that determines how well the plant will bloom.
Lilac responds favorably to fertilizers. Every spring, the bushes need to be fed with nitrogen. Top dressing from ash is well absorbed and organic fertilizers during the formation of buds, during flowering.
Phosphorus and potash fertilizers it is better to apply in the fall 1 time in 2-3 years. They are placed on top of the soil under the lilac, followed by digging. This is done due to the fact that part of the root system of the shrub is located in the upper soil layer. The best fertilizer rotted manure (horse and cow) is considered.
Remember, feeding for lilacs is necessary, but do not get carried away nitrogen fertilizers, including organic ones, because of them the plant will not bloom well, it will be harder to endure frosts.
How to prune lilacs after flowering?
In early spring, select 6-10 strong shoots on the bush, which are the furthest from each other and create the outline of the plant. Cut off the rest of the branches, and cut the small, directed inward crowns completely, and shorten the stronger ones a little.
Such thinning and sanitary pruning of lilacs must be carried out every spring, when the buds have already begun to grow.
Pruning is mandatory, otherwise the shoots under the faded flower brushes will weaken. Therefore, as soon as the lilac fades, it should be cut off. The sooner you do this, the better new shoots will develop and the flowering will be especially lush.
It should be borne in mind that pruning sometimes causes the shrub to bloom after a year. Lilacs are formed with secateurs, and large branches are cut down. Places of cuts must be covered with paint.
The basic principle of pruning is to remove all small branches. They do not bloom and can take a lot of strength from the plant.
If the branch has small and thin shoots, you need to remove it completely. Inflorescences must be removed immediately after flowering (only inflorescences without a branch are removed).
Never break off a bush, this will damage the buds that will not bloom next year.
You need to remove all the shoots, leaving only healthy shoots that will replace the old ones in the future.
To care for lilacs during flowering, you need to cut branches from abundantly flowering bushes.
After the plant has faded, all dry inflorescences must be carefully cut.
Be sure to carry out sanitary pruning in spring and autumn with the removal of diseased and drying branches growing inside the shoot bush. Do not forget about the shaping pruning, in which you need to make sure that the kidneys remain.
The lilac bush is unpretentious, but despite this, it looks spectacular. Anyone, even a beginner, a summer resident will cope with planting and leaving. By following the rules of planting, watering and pruning, you will grow luxurious plant, which will decorate your suburban area.
Every gardener dreams that his garden is decorated with some unusual plant. Lilac can also be attributed to such a plant. At proper care and following all the rules, you can achieve a beautiful and healthy look plants. This article will describe the basic requirements for caring for shrubs.
If done correct pruning plant, you can:
- update hive;
- improve flowering;
- form a crown;
- ensure a good increase in green mass;
- prevent fungal diseases from infecting the plant.
Young lilac in the first two years does not need to remove branches and shoots. If you remove young growths, then flowering will be rare or completely absent. It is important to choose the optimal time for shaping and cutting. In the spring, gardeners do not recommend cutting lilacs, as this can disrupt flowering or stop it altogether.
It is better to transfer all manipulations to autumn or until the inflorescences on lilacs disappear. But this does not mean that plant care is not required in the spring. Until the buds appear on the lilac, damaged and dried branches, as well as diseased sprouts, should be cut off.
Types of pruning lilac
There are two types of lilac pruning:
- crown pruning;
- pruning inflorescences that have faded.
Crown pruning is performed after flowering, so that the bush gives new buds and does not weaken. Long branches are removed by 1/3, shoots are thinned out and excess root growths are removed. The scheme for pruning a shrub after flowering is shown below.
Fading inflorescences are pruned in late spring or early summer, when the flowers disappear. This well stimulates the growth of new kidneys. After the bush has been rejuvenated, only stumps remain on it and it does not look beautiful. But after 2 years, the lilac will have new shoots and lush bloom.
List of tools
For this procedure, garden tools are needed, namely:
- Secateurs. To remove thin branches and new shoots.
- Hacksaw. Necessary when removing thick branches.
- Special paint. For treating fresh cuts or damage.
All inventory must be clean and well-ground so that no infection enters the cut when trimmed. hit various bacteria may be detrimental to the plant.
autumn pruning lilac
The main purpose of autumn pruning is to prepare the plant for winter, rejuvenate, strengthen the growth and development of the bush. At this time of the year, the plant tolerates pruning better than in the spring. In autumn, they not only rejuvenate, but also remove dry shoots, give the desired shape to the bush.
Thinning is done to shape the shrub, but do not forget that this procedure is done after 3 years of plant life, otherwise the lilac will disappear. Below is a diagram of the formation of a bush.
You can form a lilac bush:
- in the form of an improved bush;
- in the form of a free bush;
- standard;
- half standard;
- high standard.
Autumn rejuvenation of lilac
The shrub can remain lush as it grows, but the intensity and duration of flowering decreases. To eliminate this, rejuvenation is done to the bush. A plant older than 10 years needs rejuvenation. After the procedure, the lilac looks ugly, but for 2 years it will bloom evenly and magnificently.
During rejuvenation, most of the branches are pruned. The length of the branches should be no more than 40 cm from the soil level. Sections are covered with oil-based paint or brilliant green for quick healing.
annual pruning
For timely sanitary cleaning, lilacs are inspected every year in the fall. Branches that are covered with lichen, and the bark must be removed so that the next year the lilac will delight with its flowers.
You also need to remove crooked and broken shoots that thicken the crown. This event is not done in the spring, so as not to disrupt the growth and development of flower buds. autumn pruning will bring great benefits to the bush and improve its wintering.
Spring pruning
Gardeners do not recommend rejuvenating and shaping the shrub in the spring, but some procedures with the plant must be carried out. Before the appearance of the kidneys, all excess shoots are removed. Old lilacs need such pruning, which eventually stops flowering.
After the procedure, in the first year, the bush will have no inflorescences, but in the future it will please large quantity lush and beautiful buds.
How to thin out a lilac bush
Young seedlings grow very quickly and without constant thinning, the plant becomes shapeless and unnecessarily lush. To begin with, all dry and frostbitten branches are removed. Young shoots are cut off, on which there will be no buds. The branches that grow inside the lilac are also cut off.
Buds on such branches do not bloom due to lack of sunlight. We must not forget to partially remove the root growth to prevent the appearance wild branches. And we must remember that during the thinning procedure, only 1/3 of the total number of branches will need to be removed.
Spring rejuvenation of lilac
Rejuvenate the shrub in the spring as well as in the fall. To do this, cut all the branches and process the slices. New shoots grow on prunings. The restoration of lilac will come after two years and it will bloom again and delight with its aroma.
annual pruning
Young seedlings after 2 years need annual pruning of shoots. To achieve good flowering the next year, about 20% of the branches are removed from the lilac. For spring pruning necessary:
- cut flowers that have blossomed;
- form a plant
- remove excess thickness.
The whole procedure is carried out by garden tool. It is impossible to break or tear off shoots and inflorescences.
Shrub pruning before flowering
It is not necessary to thin out more than 10-20% of the bush in the spring until the lilac has bloomed. This may affect flowering in the current season. Before flowering, they make a sanitary cleaning and slightly remove dry and frozen branches, cracked bark, weakened branches and shoots that spoil appearance bush.
Pruning in bloom
When the bush blooms, you want to pick up a bunch of lilacs and decorate an apartment or house. You can do this safely to strengthen the bush. In the process, it is forbidden to break off the branches, you need to use garden tools. Breaking branches can kill the plant, and in rainy weather breaks quickly rot.
Pruning at the end of flowering
After the flowering of the shrub, dried inflorescences are removed. Fulfillment of some requirements will help preserve the bush and ensure its lush flowering in the future:
- after the flowering of the lilac, pruning is done to preserve the strength of the plant for further growth;
- a bush that does not bloom is thinned out every year;
- autumn pruning is useful for the shrub and helps it endure even the coldest winter.
Video: how to cut lilac
How to properly and accurately prune a bush so as not to destroy it, to ensure further growth and flowering can be viewed on the video:
What you need to grow lilac
Growing lilac does not require serious material costs. For good growth and abundant flowering bush must be observed simple rules, namely:
- carry out annual pruning of branches;
- do sanitary cleaning of shrubs;
- rejuvenate the plant in spring and autumn;
- periodically thin out the bush;
- use gardening equipment as intended.
Any plant belonging to the order of the Higher has terrestrial and underground systems. Refers to terrestrial crown, stem or stem, which for various monocot plants are called boles, while the plant itself will be called boles. The underground part consists of the root system, which includes various skeletal roots and many thin root hairs.
The overground and underground systems are interconnected. The growth and development of one system is impossible without the growth and development of another. Therefore, absolutely any external influence on the crown has a direct effect on the root system of plants, and vice versa. The task of any gardener is to minimize external stimuli or try to ensure that the influence is always justified. Most often, on an intuitive level, the gardener adheres to certain norms for maintaining decorativeness.
To cut or not to cut?
In the spring, there is a risk of removing the flower bud, which, in turn, is located on the very top of the shoot. It is also not recommended to align the lilac in height and carry out forming pruning.
Most often, forming pruning combines sanitary removal of shoots. Held in the summer months immediately after flowering and includes:
Next, trim the tops and branches. This is done in order to create a smooth and beautiful crown. Do not forget about the new growth, which also needs to be removed. It is important to remember that too dense pruning of the crown, in which the operation of the root system changes, in turn, can provoke active growth of shoots.
In the spring, deep digging of the soil is unacceptable, especially in trunk circles. In this case, the uppermost, most physiologically active roots are damaged. There is a reaction aerial parts of a plant, namely, thin and short shoots are gaining weight. Flower buds are formed only on a well-lit part of the crown. Based on this reaction, lilacs are cut annually to about 15–17% of total number branches. Under young plants, the soil is loosened shallowly - up to 8 cm, while under older plants it is necessary to dig up the soil up to 15 cm.
Many gardeners are of the opinion that lilac pruning is an unnecessary event. The postulate is this: if it grows, let it grow as it wants and where it wants. However, opinions differ: some gardeners are constantly trying to level, cut, file. Experience has shown that more often than not, the end result of constantly cutting something is worse than that of the first. Everyone knows that cutting plants, as well as forming a crown, is a must, but do it once a year and do it right.
In ordinary broad-leaved lilac and some other species, shoots branch in a false dichotomous type. This happens when from top node annual escape not one, but several new shoots sprout. On one shoot, many processes are formed due to the germination of buds on the nodes located below, and this increases several times total shoots on one bush.
Accordingly, in the spring, the root system is unable to increase much in size. Based on this, every year the plant has fewer shoots and inflorescences, and the overall decorative effect of the entire bush also deteriorates sharply. Only through proper annual pruning can thickening of the crown be avoided and improve general form the whole plant.
Trimming methods
To do the procedure yourself, you should learn how to properly trim the lilac. There are two main ways to trim lilacs:
- pruning branches, crowns and damaged shoots;
- removal of inflorescences that have already faded through a cut with a width of not more than 0.4 cm in diameter.
Large-sized lilacs will not grow in place of old inflorescences, so it is necessary to cut off old inflorescences. It is advisable to lubricate the cut well with garden pitch, otherwise the plant will begin to rot. The rot will subsequently penetrate into the middle of the skeletal branches, and gradually a healthy tree will turn into dust.
Lilac can be grown as a small tree or bush. The crown of plants is formed at the age of three, adult bushes should have several trunks. Among the large number of shoots or branches, 4–5 of the largest and strongest are selected, which are directed in different directions relative to the center of the plant. All the rest are cut along the ring, and in the future, in order to avoid the emergence of new shoots, the crown is thinned out every year in the central part.
Thanks to this method thick branches do not appear in the crown, the removal of which will mean severe injury to the plant. For an old bush, which has a large number of trunks, this is acceptable, because after removing the old shoot, a new one forms in its place. The latter grows from the bud of the root zone, which will take two and a half years.
Standard plants have a single stem, and because of this, it is protected from any mechanical damage from the very beginning of crown formation. Lilac pruning occurs in the spring, and this process begins in order to reduce the height of the trunk to 1 m. In the fall, the occulants begin to grow with shoots, and for the next spring, gardeners choose six of the strongest and strongest. And all the rest are cut around the ring. Abandoned shoots must be about the same distance to make the crown look symmetrical. This will make it possible to give the plant stability and strength.
In all subsequent years, shoots and young branches that are superfluous should be removed immediately. Shoots that grow from dormant buds must be removed as soon as they have sprouted. Thanks to this method, the cuts will never be more than 2–3 cm in diameter, and this, in turn, ensures the durability of the stem and its skeletal branches. However, if for some reason one or several branches in the crown that have significant diameters were not removed in a timely manner, there is no need to cut them. By their presence, they will cause less harm to the plant than the wound formed after their removal will cause.
When to prune
As a gardener, you will have to decide for yourself when and how to prune lilacs.
Warning! Never exercise pruning lilacs in the summer, since it is in the summer months that the most active budding occurs. An inexperienced gardener can intervene in the process and unknowingly remove just those shoots that have tuned in to the most lush flowering.
It is necessary to trim the crown in early spring or, which is most favorable for growth, after flowering has ended. Then faded inflorescences and dry branches are removed.
Lilac lovers know that if the old inflorescences of varieties such as common and broad-leaved lilacs are not removed or removed late (in August-September), all the nutrients will go to formation of seeds and fruits. There will be nothing left to lay flower buds, and later, next spring, the plant will not bloom. Therefore, pruning of inflorescences must be started as soon as the lilac has faded.
There is a certain pattern: the more petals in the flowers of any variety relative to their wild relative, the less fruit they form. Bushes are the first to be cut, the flowers of which are non-double - this is more than half of the lilac varieties. The second - semi-double inflorescences, such as: Marshal Lann, Violetta Belle. Last but not least - with terry and densely double inflorescences: Madame Lemoine, Madame Casimir, Fires of Donbass, Taras Bulba, Lavoisier and others. In this case, thanks to the pruning of inflorescences, you can significantly improve decorative look lilacs.
Varieties that do not bear fruit, for example, Beauty of Moscow, Lesya Ukrainka, are pruned at any time, they can be pruned even in winter. In physiological terms, the presence or absence of an inflorescence in their crown does not have any effect on the formation of flower buds. In these species, inflorescences are most often not pruned, because, regardless of the number and yield of seeds, every year they bloom very profusely. However, there is an exception - this is the Beijing Lilac, which, provided that the fruiting proceeds at the maximum level, cannot form flower buds and will not bloom next year.
Spring pruning negatively affects the appearance of the lilac bush, as pruning spots (dips) may not disappear before flowering begins. That is, when the crown will bloom in next time, there will appear dark spots, which visually worsens the overall appearance of the bush.