Washing in a bath is a process of cleansing not only the body, but also the soul; it is an ancient ritual, rooted in the ancient era. Going to a steam bath with a good company is a synonym for a pleasant stay with a useful purpose.
The dressing room is a bath room in which it is also important to ensure proper ventilation
Happy owners of home saunas should try hard to provide the building with all the elements necessary for its high-quality work. The article tells about such an installation detail as ventilation in the dressing room, because proper ventilation must be provided to each room.
Why is it needed and how is it useful
A small room that opens the entrance to the bath, which serves as a kind of corridor and a room for changing clothes, and also a resting place, is called a dressing room. The floor in it is usually made of moisture-resistant wood, and the ceiling is endowed with a heat-saving function. The walls of this room are insulated with cotton wool.
The size of the dressing room is calculated on the basis of 1.3 m2 and more per person. If seasonal summer buildings do not need additional insulation, then year-round ones require certain conditions of maintenance in the cold season.
In addition to heating, ventilation must be present in the room. It performs the function of protecting the dressing room from excessive moisture, dampness, various fungi, thereby preventing rotting of the wood from which the building is made. The supply of fresh air replaces the remote one. An improperly equipped ventilation system and insufficient heating can lead to the formation of condensation in the dressing room.
Bath visitors expect a long and comfortable pastime, and a properly installed ventilation system will help to ensure it. Ventilation alone will not be enough to maintain a sufficient temperature in the room.
High-quality hardware will cost a lot, but it's worth it. On cozy winter evenings, sitting in a warm sauna, you will not regret the money spent. The supply of fresh air is provided by a ventilation circulation, and this allows a person to breathe normally in the steam room.
Depending on the process regulator, ventilation in the bath can be of the following types: natural, mechanical and combined. The first, according to the principle of operation, is based on the difference between internal and external pressure, the second - on the operation of special devices, and the mixed one - on the operation of fans.
Make sure the system is functioning correctly. Ventilation should not:
- incorrectly distribute air flows, directing the coolness to the wrong place;
- break the usual degree of the bath;
- eliminate the desired air.
System malfunctions can result in malfunctions and even life-threatening situations. In addition, indoor comfort and odor will be poor.
Unpleasant odor, impaired comfort conditions and even an increased risk of danger to the life of visitors - the result of improper ventilation
Principle of operation
In addition to windows and doors, air enters the building through special vents. Sliding plugs help regulate the air circulation process. Intensive ventilation can be created by installing a fan in the exhaust outlet.
What parameters must the airflow have for the successful functioning of the system:
- size - 15-20 cm;
- the upper air duct should rise 2 m above the floor level;
- lower - 50 cm, located on the opposite side from the upper side.
It is easier to provide ventilation for a small room, but sacrificing space is also not an option.
The operation of ventilation in a bath building directly depends on the operation of the stove. The firebox is located in an underground channel. Its function is air passage and further heat exchange. Through a pipe, it is connected to a metal sheet with a fuse lined with brick. This will keep the air in the sauna fresh. The ventilation box is protected from damage by a special grill.
For the purpose of a more detailed acquaintance with the device of the ventilation device, it is proposed to view its diagram.
Self-installation of ventilation
If you decide to equip the air regulator with your own hands, you should carefully read the theoretical information and watch the necessary videos. Be sure to use the diagram when working on the arrangement of ventilation.
It is recommended to start with the floors. Some owners believe that this part of the room does not need ventilation, but this is not entirely true. Since the floor is constantly wet, it can gradually deteriorate without intervention. Therefore, it is worth doing a few vents in it. The distance between the floorboards should be about 1 cm.
Remember to dry the floors after each session. The best option for a well-established air circulation in the steam room is when the ventilation duct is laid right next to the metal sheet. The box can be no more than 1/5 part larger than the chimney. It is most rational to place the firebox directly in the steam room.
Below are five main options for ventilation schemes for dressing rooms. To determine which one is right for you, check out each in detail.
- The location of the inlet is behind the stove, the outlet is opposite it. For uniform heat transfer, a fan is installed in the outlet. Air outflow occurs through the hood.
- Both holes are located on the same wall: the upper one - at a distance of 30 cm from the ceiling, the lower one - on the same one from the floor. The fan is also present in this variant. The heated air from the oven goes into the hood and leaves the room.
- The entrance is behind the stove at a height of 20 cm from the floor, the exit is opposite it. Through the fan, cold air is sent from the steam room to the street.
- This principle is good for a bath with floors and slots for water drainage. The inlet is located behind the stove, 30 cm from the floor, cold air travels through the floor to the ventilation pipe before leaving the room.
- If your bath has a constantly working stove, make a hole directly opposite it. In this case, air will be drawn through the chimney and firebox.
To adjust the temperature in the steam room and change the quality of the steam, experts advise installing plugs that can be used to close the inlets.
Now you know how to make ventilation in the dressing room. It is not necessary to purchase an expensive Finnish installation. The main thing is to carefully follow the instructions and act according to the given scheme. Proper ventilation in your room is the key to success.
Ventilation in the dressing room is the guarantor of a healthy rest. The quality of the microclimate in the bath depends on how correctly this type of work is performed. It is impossible to get a healthy spirit and the pleasure of resting in a room with a musty smell of dampness and mold, therefore it is important to study all the features of the arrangement of air exchange before it is even more important.
Diagram of the air exchange device in the dressing room
The construction of a bath is not complete without a set of basic premises: a steam room, a washing room, a dressing room, a rest room. It is this kit that helps you get a good rest and enjoy it. In order to save space, the dressing room is often used as a dressing room, a rest room. Since the maximum time vacationers will be in this room, the microclimate in it must meet the following requirements:
According to the above list, a direct dependence of the microclimate on heating and ventilation is visible.
Technical requirements for air exchange in the dressing room
When building a bath with your own hands, you can later face high humidity, which, ultimately, will lead to the appearance of rot, mold, and premature destruction of the building. The reason for such troubles may be an illiterate arrangement of ventilation, the absence or improper insulation of walls, floors, ceilings.
Calculation table for air exchange in different rooms of the bath Before the stage of engineering work in the dressing room, a number of features should be taken into account:
There are three types of ventilation used for the bath:
- Forced. Carried out with the help of electric fans;
- Natural. Based on the laws of physics, where wind force and atmospheric pressure play a role. The principle of movement of air masses: warm air rises, cooled air descends to the floor;
- Combined. A combination of the two previous types. Such a complex will provide an optimal microclimate in the entire structure in a short time.
Arrangement of ventilation in the dressing room
When building a bath, it should be understood that this is not only a steam room, but also a number of other premises. In general, it is a complex. Therefore, a single ventilation scheme is laid at the time of design. To do this, you should take into account a number of points:
Depending on the location of the recreation room, the hood can be mounted on the wall behind which it is located. Forced ventilation is often used to improve the efficiency of air movement.
When doing work on laying ventilation ducts with your own hands, do not forget about their heat and.
An integrated approach to the condensate problem
By purchasing a ready-made bath, you can face the problem of condensation in the dressing room. If the inspection of the ventilation system on site has shown that everything is normal, the quality of the "pies" of the walls, floor, and ceiling should be reviewed.
Drawing of the placement of ventilation openings in the dressing room Possible drafts and additional sources of moisture, cold from the outside create problems inside the building. As a result, such a way to solve the problem with condensation, how to make ventilation in the dressing room, will not help. A whole range of work will be required to eliminate such a deficiency.
Floor insulation
The ideal flooring option is tiles. It seals all drafts from the underfloor space, and also prevents moisture penetration. For greater comfort, a warm floor system can be laid under it, but this will increase the cost of finishing and operating. Therefore, most often they equip wooden coatings. The correct floor should be installed in the following steps:
Often, part of the heating and ventilation ducts is laid in the underground space. With this scheme, communications are insulated and waterproofed.
Ceiling insulation
Perhaps this is the weakest point in the dressing room. It is he who is most negatively affected by the effect of steam.
Ceiling insulation scheme in the dressing room The warmer the ceiling, the less condensation will accumulate on it. The ideal filler option is expanded clay, which will replace both insulation and vapor barrier. But this is not always technically feasible.
Therefore, the false ceiling is the most popular:
- Guide bars are stuffed, vapor barrier is laid;
- Insulation is laid between the wooden profiles (mineral wool is recommended), sewn up with a reflector (foil film). The seams between the canvases are glued with metallized tape.
An important point is the ventilation gap between the insulation and the finishing ceiling lining.
Wall insulation
It is carried out according to the same principle as the ceiling sheathing. For assumed. And inside the arrangement of waterproofing.
Wall insulation scheme in the dressing room and waterproofing device Another important point for conserving heat and optimizing ventilation is doors. The size of the entrance group to the dressing room is recommended 1800 * 800.
In this case, the insulation of the box is mandatory. The door to the steam room is made smaller than the entrance. Thus, heat loss in both rooms is reduced.
Heating
The sharp difference between the steam room and the dressing room is the main reason for the appearance of condensation. Therefore, experienced craftsmen strive to create the optimal temperature regime in each room. For this, the stove is used as a heat source.
There are several options:
Which method to choose is determined individually.
Like any construction project, a Russian bath is being built according to the project. It is necessary to provide for the arrangement of ventilation for comfortable acceptance of procedures, achieving a health-improving effect, ensuring the durability of the structure of the bath itself.
Specificity of air ventilation in the bath
Ventilation in a Russian sauna from a bar with a stove, leaks between the laid logs and cracks between the threshold and the door occurs naturally. You don't need to invent anything extra. It is another matter if the room is constructed of brick, concrete, foam block, etc. The heat-shielding functions of wood are replaced by additional thermal insulation. Although, in a foam block bath, it retains heat no worse than in a wooden frame.
A modern building called a bathhouse is a zoned room, lined from the inside with the same eco-friendly wood. The Russian bath is distinguished by the generation of hot steam. Under its influence, the body secretes toxins, salts, washed off with water. For a long stay in the same steam room with a large crowd of people, you need fresh air.
Important! Proper ventilation in the bath must comply with the requirements of GOST 21.602-79 and SNiP 2.04.05-91 for heating, air conditioning and ventilation.
In particular, ensure complete air replacement at least twice every hour. Moreover, this is also true during the downtime of the structure: the damp surfaces inside must dry completely, the wood does not rot, and its appearance is preserved.
Ventilation in the bath and dressing room - channel layout
Thus, the ventilation device in the bath provides:
- an additional heating source for the dressing room when the hot air duct passes through it;
- adjusting the speed of air flows (incoming and outgoing);
- regulation of their movement: air should circulate from the steam room outside it, but not towards the dressing room or resting place;
- correct installation of the hood (above the roof) for effective removal of vapors for any type of ventilation;
- lattice positioning: 0.5 m from the top layer of the soil with natural air movement, at least 2 m - with mechanical ventilation;
- increased efficiency of air exchange when combining various types of ventilation.
Air exchange in different zones
Dressing room
Ventilation in the dressing room when installing a stove in it is the simplest and most effective type of air exchange. Air is circulated through the firebox. But the proximity of the room to the steam room leads to the deposition of condensate on surfaces: walls, ceiling. To preserve the wood cladding, to prevent it from rotting, the dressing room is well insulated. Drafts are excluded. It is necessary to maintain the dimensions established by the norms: for 1 washable one, at least 1.3 sq. area. The simplest ventilation scheme in the bath for this room is reduced to the withdrawal of spent air masses through the bathroom or washing area. But it is best to provide for a forced type of air exchange in the dressing room.
Ventilation in the sauna in the steam room
Complete replacement of air in the steam room should occur 3 times per hour (at least). This is due to the lack of oxygen during bath procedures and its constant replenishment by ventilating the room. Air is sucked in from below at a height of 1.5 m from the floor directly from the street, and not from the interior. If in the steam room there is a stove, dampers that specifically regulate the flow of air, a valve for ventilation in the steam room, etc., then these are natural ways to regulate air exchange. By adjusting the cross-section of the duct, you can also control the air exchange. The movement of air flows of different temperatures depends on the location of the ventilation openings. The layout in the steam room is on the same wall, but at different heights or on opposing wall surfaces with different levels of location.
Attention! To prevent drafts, you should not equip vents on the same level opposite each other.
In the optimal variant, the device of the showerheads is made as low as possible: this way the heat is better retained. But for the intensity of the exchange of air masses in the steam room, you need to equip forced ventilation (deflector, fan).
Deciding on the ventilation system in the bath
Being engaged in construction on your own, you need to know how to make ventilation in the bath so that it:
- did not interfere with the rapid heating of the room;
- effectively removed carbon dioxide, fuel combustion products;
- provided complete ventilation in a minimum time.
Do-it-yourself ventilation in the bath can be aeration, mechanical or combined. Depending on this, the location of the channels and their size are selected. The air flow volume is directly proportional to the duct cross-section. The system should be assembled even during the formation of the base. The air transport duct is available with a square or circular cross-section. In the latter case, it, like the junction box, can be made from a 100 mm plastic pipe. The openings at the outlet and inlet are closed with a fine mesh insert, preventing debris and insects from entering the pipe.
Popular ventilation schemes
- The air inlet is located on the bottom of the wall opposite the heater. The blower plays the role of a hood, provided that the stove is constantly functioning during bath procedures.
- Scheme with access to the wall of holes along the inflow and exhaust in the steam room on the same wall, but at different levels: 0.3 m from the ceiling, air removal, 0.3 m from the floor - inflow.
- The same distances (30 cm each) for inflow and exhaust, but air enters the steam room immediately behind the stove, and is removed through a channel on the opposite wall.
- The inflow is behind the stove (0.3 m from the floor), the exhaust hood with forced air removal by means of a fan is opposite on the wall, below at the same height.
Algorithm for the device of a system with a fan
A step-by-step installation guide for the combination option provides for an increase in fresh air injection with a special wide-blade fan.
- You will need tools for work: a hacksaw, a drill, a three-core wiring, etc.
- A fan of rated power and performance is purchased.
- In a wooden frame, a drill with a special funnel makes nearby holes.
- With the help of a hacksaw, the membranes between them are cut off, the holes are combined into one hole.
- In the same way, the channel is made to the air inlet (outlet).
- The vector of the air flow is checked experimentally. For this, the holes are all clogged, the oven is heated. When the temperature in the bath exceeds + 50 ° C, the holes open. Air flows are investigated.
- Rigid wiring is laid in a waterproof corrugated sheath to power the fan using an RCD.
- A fan is installed in the center of the ventilation hole. Fastened with self-tapping screws.
- Dampers are manufactured or purchased to prevent heat loss, reduce the heating time of the stove. They are inserted into fixed runners or mounted on hinges. If the bath is located autonomously, the gates are also hung from the side of the street.
Important! All fittings for installation work must be made of stainless material, and the fan must be made of heat-resistant polyamide that can withstand temperatures up to 130 ° C.
So, do you need ventilation in the bath - yes, you do. Is it possible to arrange it yourself without the use of complex equipment - yes, quite. But, with the obligatory study of theoretical foundations, development of a project and drawing up a scheme for the production of work.
We have already repeatedly addressed the topic of bath ventilation, but these were materials regarding its theoretical part.
This article corrects the preponderance of theory and is entirely devoted to the practical issues of ventilation in the bath.
How to properly ventilate the bath: planning during the construction phase
Indeed, there are far from isolated cases of construction of baths without any kind of ventilation. At first glance, it seems that the train has already left. However, in reality, there is always the opportunity to fix everything, however, you have to come to terms with the fact that this will cost a pretty penny. It is especially difficult to make forgotten ventilation in a brick bath, where ventilation ducts are laid in the walls at the construction stage. But in other cases, the task is not easy.
But what does it mean to plan during the construction phase? First of all, we are talking about the layout of the ventilation holes and channels by which they are connected to the street or neighboring rooms (depending on the choice). Based on this scheme, the volume of premises and standards, the diameter of the pipes is calculated, which provides the necessary gas exchange in each of the bath rooms: steam room, washing room, rest room, dressing room, toilet. If ventilation is forced, then the power of the fans is calculated.
If the bath has already been built
Take, as an example, an ordinary Russian bathhouse in which they forgot to make ventilation holes. In principle, if there are windows, and the furnace firebox is located inside the steam room, then you can do without drilling holes at all. But you will have to constantly resort to volley ventilation and use the furnace draft as a ventilation one.
This will fix the problem in general, but there are drawbacks to be aware of:
- By opening windows and doors, we do not so much lower the temperature in the room as we distill the steam to other rooms (instead of the street from which the inflow comes from, it goes inward and condensation falls out), and then the steam comes out, and the temperature only dropped slightly and will recover in a short time.
- To use the stove draft, you still have to make holes, but only in the lower part of the steam room door. Then the inflow from the neighboring rooms will flow through it, which, in turn, will pull through the cracks from the street.
To regulate ventilation with the help of a stove, a gate and stove doors are used. If it is necessary to increase the air exchange, it is enough just to open the damper and the firebox doors all the way. To reduce it, the gate is covered, but not completely, because closed with unburned wood is a guarantee of carbon monoxide poisoning.
by the way, the problem of forgotten ventilation in a bath made of any material is solved by the described methods. They cannot completely replace the supply and exhaust ventilation, but they do not have to worry about making holes in the walls.
If this ventilation is not enough, you will have to drill the wall. But more on that below.
Device, diagrams: how to make ventilation in the bath
There are a number of materials included in other articles, therefore, in order not to repeat ourselves, we suggest that you follow the links below - there you will find a lot of useful information on a topic of interest:
Do-it-yourself sauna ventilation: a step-by-step guide
Now let's proceed to the analysis of the points that make up the creation of bath ventilation with our own hands, let's call this a step-by-step guide.
Choosing a scheme
In terms of choosing a scheme, the answer to the question "how to make ventilation in a bath correctly" is ambiguous, since there are different schemes. Physics says that the inlet should be located below the exhaust. What exactly will be the difference in height between them is up to you. Despite the fact that in many sources it is proposed to make an exhaust hole under the ceiling (but in no case on the ceiling, so as not to spoil the attic with condensation), there is a more advanced scheme, in which there are two inside exhaust ports for one exhaust outlet... It's simple: a pipe with two holes is placed - lower behind the middle shelf and under the ceiling, and this pipe has only one exit to the street.
The schemes also differ in which walls to make the hood on. Most often, there are no questions with the inflow - it is done under the stove, and the hood is made on the opposite, and on the same walls, and with access to the street, and to an adjacent room.
Choose the optimal ventilation path
It's just that calculations are made only for forced ventilation. For a natural one, many factors have to be taken into account, in particular, the strength and direction of the winds that usually blow in this area. Why is this necessary? Take the case where the exhaust port is facing the same side as the strong wind blows. And it turns out that the inflow strives to get into the exhaust hole because of this. Then the supply air will also "turn around" in the opposite direction. This is called reverse thrust or overturning thrust.
In order to avoid this, the ventilation ducts can be lengthened to bring in the right direction, and even made with turns, which, by the way, reduce the speed of air movement.
The idea is simple: it is better to orient the inlet of the inflow to the side from which the wind often blows, and the outlet of the hood - on the opposite side or through the roof through a high pipe.
ADVICE! Than to make ventilation ducts with knees, it is better to immediately make forced ventilation.
By the way, not every wall will accept the ventilation duct well in its thickness. It is best not to do this in outer block walls. There, all ventilation is carried out along the inner walls and partitions, often on top of the walls.
How to make a hole in the wall
This point is discussed in great detail later.
Installation of pipes and grates
Galvanized pipes can be used as an air duct.
ATTENTION! If you take plastic ones, pay attention to their temperature range so that the steam room does not spoil them.
Ventilation in the dressing room
The dressing room should be a warm room with fresh air, which is comfortable to be in after bath procedures. Therefore, it is usually equipped with only one ventilation hole - an exhaust hood. And to speed up the process of gas exchange, a fan is often installed on this hood. The exhaust hole itself is located opposite the steam room at a height of half a meter. It is drilled in an accessible way in the wall, a plug is placed on one side, and a grate or deflector on the other. In the case of forced ventilation, there is a fan inside, connected according to the instructions supplied with the device.
But if the furnace of the stove is not in the steam room, but in the dressing room, you will have to make sure that fresh air from the street comes to the stove. For this, a ventilation duct is equipped, most likely made of galvanized steel, which passes under the finished floor and delivers fresh air directly to the oven door. The installation of this channel is carried out before the end of the work with the floor. The pipe of the calculated diameter is inserted at one end into a hole in the wall, where it is fixed with foam and closed with a grill, and on the other side it is led out to the furnace and supplied with an adjustable plug.
How to make ventilation in the steam room of a bath
The ventilation mode of the steam room differs from other rooms of the bath in the same way as the steam room itself differs from them in its extremeness. In the Russian bathhouse, the ventilation is shut off for a while while you are steaming. But at the same time, it is extremely important. to saturate the steam room with oxygen, uniform heating, distribution of air flows.
More detailed information on this topic can be found in articles and in general. In particular, among the well-proven methods of ventilation of this room, one can call bastu ventilation. But you can also read about it in the mentioned articles.
Do-it-yourself ventilation in the steam room
Steam room ventilation schemes can also be found in. As for the stages of self-assembly of air ducts, they are no different from those given above, so now we will consider in detail the method of drilling holes in the walls from a log house or timber, as well as from blocks.
How to make a hole in the wall of a log house
- Before you start you need to know place and size the future hole, which is slightly larger than the diameter of the pipe, because you still have to wrap the pipe with a heat insulator. After that, the markup is done. (It is advisable at this moment to have both pipes and grates on hand so that the process can be controlled through them.)
- A drill for wood, the length of which must be greater than the thickness of the wall with the entire "pie", if any, a through hole is drilled in the center of the marking.
- After that, from the outside of the wall a circle of the required diameter is drawn with a drilled hole in the center.
- External and internal wall trim is neatly cut in a circle, freeing the log wall.
- The same drill is used to make holes in the log around the entire circumference marked circle. And the closer they are to each other, the easier it is to remove the inner fragment later. Observe the perpendicularity of the drill to the plane of the wall.
- The chisel and chisel will help remove jumpers between the drilled holes. Work should be done both inside and outside the bath.
- Taking out the middle part, do not line up the edges- it's too much.
Useful video
And here in the video, the same is done using a drill and a crown:
How to make a hole in a block wall
The method for a block wall is exactly the same as described above, except that a concrete drill is taken (you can use a bit instead). By the way, the blocks are very soft, the main thing is not to collide with the metal (reinforcing mesh, pins, fastening fittings of openings). If this happens, you will need special pliers (hydraulic).
IMPORTANT! There is a likelihood of colliding with metal when drilling a log house - there are pins under the ceiling that hold the Mauerplate, so the pincers should be rented in advance.
As for air ducts, plugs and valves, all of this is purchased in stores. The air duct is most often a galvanized pipe (round, square or rectangular in cross-section), which must be insulated (wrapped with insulation) and sealed with foam so that condensation does not form and the wall does not get wet.
Plugs and dampers are purchased for the required diameter. It is better to take wooden ones, because the plastic in the steam room will emit carcinogens that we do not need, and the metal will burn in the heated steam room. As for the schemes, we have already given links to them.
Useful video
It shows how to use a drill to make a square hole in the wall.
Well, that's all that we could tell you about how to make ventilation in a bath. We can only wish you success in the implementation of our plans. Do-it-yourself ventilation in a bath is a difficult business, but feasible for many. We hope that you have planned everything well and to the end, and in the future you will not have to regret either the wasted time or the money invested.
In contact with
The full and durable functioning of a bath of any type and size depends not only on the competent construction of the building, its decoration and installation of the stove, but also on the organization of the ventilation system. Further, in the material with the attached photos and videos, we will talk about the types and principles of the construction of hoods in various rooms of the bathhouse, built by our own hands.
How ventilation works in the bath
Air circulation in the bath, as well as in any other room, occurs according to the laws of physics, so the concept of the hood is quite simple.
For its arrangement, it is necessary to make two types of holes:
- supply air;
- outputting.
Fresh air enters the building from the street through the supply channels. As a rule, when designing a ventilation system inside a bath, such openings are provided almost at the very floor near the stove. This is done so that the cold air heats up quickly from the stove and the overall temperature inside the bath does not drop.
Exhaust openings are designed so that carbon monoxide accumulating inside the room and superheated humid air can be removed from the room. They are placed slightly below the ceiling level opposite the supply ducts so that the air can be freely renewed and does not stagnate inside the bath.
Nevertheless, it is not worth making a hole in the ceiling itself for the hood, since in this case the bath will cool down very quickly.
We can say that the layout of the inlet and outlet vents itself is not very difficult. Much more concern is the need for timely and effective removal of carbon monoxide accumulations in the steam room and at the same time maintaining the temperature at high values necessary for a comfortable stay in the steam room.
In addition, you need to think about how to make ventilation in the dressing room, shower and rest room so that it is pleasant and not cold to be in them during a break after a steam room. So you should work out the ventilation scheme in the bathhouse dressing room in advance if you plan to carry out construction work on your own.
Air exchange device methods
Air circulation in the bath can be done in two ways:
- spontaneously;
- forcibly.
When deciding how to make ventilation in the dressing room with your own hands, you need to take into account the size of the room itself and its functional features.
Natural ventilation
Natural air movement is achieved due to the difference in temperature and pressure inside the building and outside. Arranging such ventilation in the dressing room of the bath, you need to correctly place the supply and exhaust windows. It is optimal if cold air enters from below, through a passage arranged 25-35 cm from the floor in the immediate vicinity of the stove. The exhaust hot air will be outflowed through the hood 15-20 cm from the ceiling.
It is worth noting that often this type of air exchange is not suitable for steam rooms, since cold air stagnates and accumulates at the floor, and the hottest one is at the ceiling. In this room, it is quite difficult to create optimal air circulation in a natural way, although if you try very hard and correctly arrange all the elements of the ventilation system, nothing is impossible.
Forced extraction
It is possible to force the air currents inside the steam room in a Finnish or Russian bath to move with the help of mechanisms.
There are two types of forced ventilation systems:
- Electronically... Such a system controls the temperature of the air, its humidity, and automatically regulates its supply and cleaning. However, the installation of such complex technological installations can be quite expensive and not fit into the budget.
- Combined method the arrangement of the hood assumes that along with the installation of openings for the supply and exhaust of air, special fans are installed. They will force the air masses to move, while creating a sense of natural air exchange.
How the type of bath building affects the type of ventilation system
In the best way, natural ventilation is carried out in log cabins for a Russian bath, if all technological requirements were observed during its arrangement, and the air ducts were installed in the right places.
If the building for a bathhouse is of a frame type, then it is usually quite airtight. Therefore, in order to ensure the best air flow into the steam room and full ventilation, it is advisable to install a blower fan in the supply window.
Brick buildings are completely unable to breathe and do not allow air to pass through. In such a bath, the hood in the dressing room, steam room and rest room can only be forced.
Features and subtleties of designing a hood
Starting to design the ventilation system in the dressing room and other rooms of the bath, you should consider all the subtleties and features of the placement of its individual elements.
Therefore, it is necessary to decide how to make a hood in the dressing room, steam room and rest room at the planning stage of the construction of a bath.
The passages themselves, along which air flows from the street will enter the steam room, dressing room, shower and rest room, and the exhaust air and accumulations of carbon monoxide and steam will go outside, will need to be performed during the construction of the bath frame. But additional elements in the form of grids, valves to control the intensity of air supply, as well as fans and other mechanisms, are installed already in the process of finishing the bath from the inside.
How efficiently the ventilation system will work in the bath is influenced by the following parameters:
- the principle of placement of air duct windows;
- the dimensions of the supply and exhaust openings, which are calculated based on the volume of the room in which they are located, and it does not matter if it is a shower room, a rest room, a dressing room or a steam room.
Calculation of the size of windows for ventilation
It is necessary to calculate the size of windows for blowing and blowing out air based on the size of a particular bath room, that is, for a steam room, rest room, washing room or dressing room, these indicators will be different. At the same time, it is equally important to provide for the ability to adjust the size of such a window and, accordingly, the power of the air flows, by installing special gratings and valves.
Note that if the ventilation ducts are made too large, the room temperature will be quite difficult to maintain at an optimal level, which in parallel entails unnecessary consumption of electricity or fuel. And it will be quite difficult to adjust the size of the gap in the duct by which the valve needs to be opened.
When constructing ventilation in the dressing room of a bath with your own hands, you should start from the calculated size of the window for blowing 24 cm 2 per 1 cubic meter of the room. But the blowing hole should be made of a larger size in order to provide good traction.
It is worth remembering that too much carbon monoxide and humid exhaust air can accumulate in the room, which are dangerous for human life, if the size of the hood windows is not enough for the full circulation of air flows.
Hole placement principle
The replacement of air in the room occurs due to the gradual rise of heated air masses up to the ceiling in the direction of the exhaust hole, their removal outside and the flow of a similar volume of cold fresh heavy air from the street through the supply window.
It is desirable that the direction of the warm air currents coming from the oven side can be controlled. Therefore, it is advisable to place two blowing holes at once in the steam room. With the help of valves, a directed heat flow can be created on them, leaving one or another gap in the air ducts.
Organization of the ventilation system in the Russian bath
How effectively a do-it-yourself extractor hood will function in the dressing room, steam room and washing room in the Russian bath depends on the quality and literacy of the project development.
It is very important that the change in air temperature when moving from the steam room to the wash room and dressing room is gradual. In addition, it is equally important that the air near the floor and at the level of the head does not differ too much in temperature.
The number of passages for air inflow and outflow, their size and location in the room directly affect the intensity and uniformity of air circulation inside the building. And additional equipment greatly simplifies this process.
Schemes for arranging a hood for a bath
The main task of ventilation in the relaxation room of the bath, as well as in the dressing room and the steam room, is to ensure constant air renewal, maintain constant temperature and humidity, and remove carbon monoxide gases outside. Since all bath rooms are constantly in contact with high temperatures and humidity, they need to be dried regularly.
However, simply ventilating the steam room and drying the wooden elements is not enough. To prevent the wood from accumulating moisture, a constant, stably working hood should be organized in the bath. Then it will last much longer and keep it hygienic and clean.
Ventilated floor system
To improve air circulation in the steam room, you can arrange a ventilated floor.
To organize such a design, a number of conditions will need to be met:
- air holes must be provided in the basement of the bath;
- in the boardwalk, you need to leave gaps of 1 cm, sufficient for the passage of air;
- supply ducts are located in parallel walls, having previously protected them with gratings;
- the finishing coating is laid above the level of the furnace blower so that it acts as an additional hood;
- at the end of the bath procedures, all doors are left open in the bath until the floor is completely dry.
Air exchange in the dressing room
Both the dressing room and the relaxation room are not exposed to the aggressive effects of high temperature and humidity. Therefore, airing and air exchange in these rooms is easiest to do. Here, the method of natural ventilation is used, or the arrangement of additional fans in the exhaust openings connected to the air ducts in the bathroom, vestibule or steam room.
If desired, you can install electronic ventilators. However, they require an electrical connection and direct access to the street.
Hood in the shower room
Typically, a shower room requires a motorized forced ventilation system to remove accumulated steam and moisture. In this case, the dimensions of the inlet and outlet openings are made the same. The supply channel starts at a level of 2 m above the ground, and the outlet channel ends above the roof.
Steam room ventilation system
One of the main requirements for the ventilation system in the steam room is the absence of drafts. In this case, the room should quickly heat up, and the humidity level should be kept at the level necessary for bath procedures. In this regard, the principle of the location of the supply and exhaust openings laid during construction is considered optimal.
The intensity of the air flow can be adjusted using the dampers. At the same time, the large size of the room requires the installation of additional fans for blowing in or out.