They require regular refreshment with special compounds (for example, " Polish"). In their absence, the furniture can be wiped with vaseline oil. For this, a swab is prepared from a lump of cotton wool wrapped in a soft, non-synthetic cloth. Thin layers are applied to the cotton wool. vaseline oil and wipe the furniture with a swab. After 2-5 minutes, the treated surfaces are rubbed with a flannel rag.
White spots can form on lacquered and polished surfaces, for example under heated objects (a glass of hot tea). To remove them, a few drops of a mixture of an equal amount of refined vegetable oil and ethyl alcohol. In a circular motion, the rags rub this mixture into the surface until the stain disappears.
To eliminate minor dents without destroying the veneer, the so-called swelling effect is used. The varnish or polish is removed from the damaged area with a sandpaper, a cloth moistened with warm water is applied to the dent and left for several hours. Veneer fibers, saturated with water, swell and warp. If the defect is not completely eliminated, then after 5-6 hours a damp cloth is applied again. The leveled surface is finished, trying to bring it closer to the appearance of undamaged furniture.
Other relatively common damage to the finishing veneer are swelling, cracks, peeling. Full recovery The appearance of the product is a very time-consuming operation, therefore it is recommended that you first try to correct the defect by cosmetic means.
Small gaps can be covered with a mixture of wood flour (from wood of the same breed as the veneer) with carpentry glue. After complete hardening, the defective area is polished with fine sandpaper. Sometimes, in order not to affect the entire veneer, grinding is done with a needle file. Then the polished damage is covered with a colorless varnish.
If the veneer has peeled off, then its edge is carefully bent. With a sharp knife (scalpel), the veneer and the slab are cleaned of glue residue. The peeled veneer is moistened warm water, and the tiles are smeared with glue (Oak is recommended). Then the veneer is pressed against the slab and first ironed with the palm of your hand from the middle to the edge, and then with a small warm iron or a heated hammer. After removing the squeezed glue, the glued area of the veneer is pressed with clamps. If the veneer is swollen, it must be made from thick paper defect model of the same dimensions and, having cut the model in the middle of the swelling, determine what width of the cut ensures a snug fit of the veneer to the slab. A cut in the swelling is made along the fibers of the veneer and, carefully bending its edges, the dried one is removed and new glue is introduced. After pressing the veneer, while the glue has not yet hardened, the edges overlapping each other are removed or a strip of cut veneer is glued, then the glued area is clamped with a clamp or pressed with a load.
It is best to use a bag of heated sand. In order to press the vertical sections, the bag should be quilted and hung like a pendulum. The point of its suspension should be above the furniture.
If the listed methods do not give the desired result, an insert is made. It is made from veneer of the same breed, texture, color, which all furniture is lined with. The insert is usually a rhombus, one axis of which is three to four times larger than the other. The long axis is placed along the fibers. It is desirable to have an insert template from thin plywood or roofing iron. First, it is placed on a defective place and outlined, and then the old veneer is removed with a sharp chisel. Sometimes, instead of drawing with a sharp shoe knife, they cut the veneer to the slab.
HOUFEK offers Hi-tech grinding:
1. Sanding facades from MDF.
The plane is ground with a standard belt using a contact grinding shaft and an iron (preferably a sectional iron). electronic control). And the profile drawing should be polished with brushes: disk or drum type. The combined use of two grinding systems allows you to achieve the desired result.
2. Sanding veneer.
A rather rare operation in Russian industries. Everyone tends to buy ready-made veneer and not create such problems for themselves. And there are indeed difficulties. The machine that grinds veneer must have vacuum table- a table with grooves in the metal and holes in the feed conveyor. Of course, a pump is also required for the vacuum table to work. The number and composition of grinding units must be agreed with our representative. The selection of the skin should also be appropriate. Models have this option. BULDOG5 , BULDOG7 andMAXX .
3. Grinding short workpieces.
It is known that some paneled doors are first sanded and painted in blanks, only then assembled. Some panels are too small (250x100, 300x150). Such small dimensions of blanks are often found in the production of bathroom furniture. Such blanks may incorrectly pass under the grinding units. The best way out is the same vacuum table. It will allow the most reliable way to "suck" any workpiece to the feed conveyor. Models have this option. BULDOG5 , BULDOG7 andMAXX . If we grind with brushes or flap discs, then the model FINAL .
4. Sanding window frames assembled (production of wooden eurowindows).
Unlike paneled doors, euro windows are polished as an assembly, and only then they are painted. An ordinary calibrating-grinding machine will not work for this purpose: the frame has vertical and horizontal crossbars, and it is necessary to grind only along the fibers. Such a task is only possible with a special machine model CINDY. It is made open on one side and can overtake the frame and sash along the perimeter, always sanding along the grain.
5. Calibration of furniture boards (window boards, countertops, stairs).
No matter how the production workers boast of their equipment, glue furniture board from ideal lamellas and to observe the ideal geometry is impossible. Experienced technologists know this firsthand. To calibrate such shields, it is imperative to have the first milling (also called a planer or thicknesser) unit. It will partially restore the geometry and, if necessary, remove the difference in thickness up to 5 mm at a width of 1300 mm. The planing unit is equipped with machines BULDOG5 , BULDOG7 andMAXX .
6. Sanding veneered blanks.
The main difficulty lies in the preparatory operations. Before gluing, it is necessary to calibrate the base material, no matter how ideal it may seem at first glance. And be sure to pay Special attention pressing and subsequent holding. It is here that very important subtleties lie. Everything else is successfully done by our woodworking machines of the series BULDOG3 , BULDOG5 , BULDOG7 andMAXX .
7. Grinding of curved workpieces (countertops, stairs, furniture elements).
In order not to “fill up” the edges of such complex workpieces, such a thing as a controlled pneumatic iron is required. Moreover, the grinding iron must have computer control. The computer monitors the shape of the part and removes or adds extreme ironing segments. Using a simple sectional iron, you run the risk of sanding the longitudinal edges, this is especially important on veneered blanks. We grind curves on Buldog machines.
8. Calibration of MDF or chipboard.
The preliminary calibration operation before further gluing or painting MDF or chipboard, DSP, fiberboard panels is one of the simplest. Purpose: to level and prepare the surface of the plate. It is possible to work at high feed rates and using coarse-grained skins. The only thing you need to pay attention to is the hardness of the grinding shaft. On soft rubber, you will quickly ruin the entire rubberized layer and will be forced to change the shaft or give it for restoration. This operation is expensive and it is better to avoid it. Put a steel shaft - it is more reliable for this purpose. Pay attention to drive power.
9. Calibration and sanding of soft wood.
With the seeming simplicity of this operation, you will also encounter minor problems: the skin will become clogged with resin. You can’t get rid of this completely, but you can reduce the impact in several ways. Work with cloth-based sandpaper - can still be cleaned and reused. Install the blower on the machine sanding belts– material particles will be blown out of the skin directly on the machine.
10. Intermediate grinding of paint and varnish coatings.
You have applied a layer of primer to the part with NC varnish, the pile has risen and intermediate grinding is required. Task: remove 0.05 ... 0.1 mm - remove only the villi. At first glance, nothing complicated, but the machine does not pull. Why? Yes, because surfaces coated with varnish (such as NC) have a very high hardness. Even an engine power of more than 10 kW may not be enough. There is a way out - the selection of speeds and capacities.
11. Calibration and grinding of plate parts made of other materials (plastic, asbestos-cement boards, metal, etc.)
Calibrating and grinding machines of the Czech company HOUFEK are able to process not only blanks made of solid wood or based on it. Any construction board materials, plastics and metal sheets also amenable to grinding and calibration. This is just a separate topic for discussion. The best way choose a machine - consult with the manager.
Has old furniture lost its former luster? I'm tired, but it's a pity to throw it away? All this is fixable: you can appearance improve so that no one will think that the furniture is many years old. Do-it-yourself furniture restoration is hard work. But you don't have to do anything super complicated. Some methods are so simple that everyone can do it (we are not talking about antiques, of course).
Restoration of wooden surfaces
No matter how carefully the furniture is handled, scuffs, scratches, stains still occur. They are easy to eliminate. The main thing is to know how and why.
Restoring the polish
Restoring a layer of varnish is a difficult task. Any restoration of furniture begins with cleaning and degreasing and repairing the varnish coating too. We use detergent for dishes, diluted in water: safe and reliable. After drying, we proceed to update the polishing.
You can simply refresh the faded polish on the furniture with mixtures prepared by yourself:
- Two parts linseed oil and turpentine and some vinegar. Everything is mixed, applied with a swab, wait until it is absorbed and polished.
- Mix oil and beer in equal parts and wipe the furniture with this composition. Rub after soaking.
- A more shiny surface will be if the beer is boiled with a piece of wax, cooled and applied slightly warm to the furniture. When the composition is absorbed, the surface is rubbed to a shine.
More recipes in the video.
How to remove polish from furniture
Quite often you have to remove the polishing: this is not the most fashionable finish. modern furniture most often painted with opaque or tinting paints, and the surface is matte. In any case, you need to remove the polish. There are several ways. Since varnishes are different in composition, you have to select empirically. But one of the methods should work.
How to paint polished furniture
If old furniture prepared for painting, it must be cleaned of dust, wiped with a damp cloth and allowed to dry. After leveling everything with putty, smooth out all the bumps, wait until it dries. Take sandpaper and sand again, first with medium, then with fine grain. Next, apply a layer of primer and wait for it to dry.
The primer is bought for the paint that is going to be used, or the paint can be diluted with a compatible solvent and covered instead of primer. After drying, you can paint.
You can paint with a roller or brush. Usually several coats are needed: do not try to apply a lot of paint at once, as streaks may appear. It is better to apply several thin layers. So the surface will be smooth and uniform. Another trick: for uniform coloring, layers are applied in different directions - along, then across. This also applies to the application of varnish.
Some varnishes are easier to work with when they are warm. They are slightly heated and then applied with a spray gun or brush. When warming up, you need to be careful: vapors can flare up.
In order of staining: first, the inner surfaces, edges and joints are painted, then they move on to the outer ones. With this sequence, there is less chance of getting dirty or touching the already painted surface, ruining it.
If lacquer coating even, without defects, and it needs to be painted over, you can do without removing this layer. There are special primers for difficult surfaces. Coat the surface with them, and paint after drying. They have components that penetrate even the varnish layer. Therefore, the paint will be applied well and hold on for a long time. But such soils have a minus: they are expensive. But they do save a lot of time.
Some secrets of wood coloring (including brushing and coloring in two colors) are in the article "". A few secrets for smooth application acrylic paint see video.
If the restoration did not bring the expected result, maybe you need to change the appearance? How
How to restore veneer
Veneered furniture requires a special approach. The means are basically the same, the methods are different. For example, if after hitting the veneer is swollen, draw PVA glue into a disposable syringe, pierce the bubble, and inject glue into the cavity. Lay a piece of dense fabric on top and put a load. If the surface is uneven (convex or concave), a bag of dense fabric with heated sand is used as a load.
If the veneer is glued to alcohol glue, you can return the swollen part to its place by ironing it through a rag with a hot iron. But do not overheat the iron: the veneer can stretch. The degree of heating is medium.
If ironing through a dry cloth does not help, try again with a damp cloth (wet and wring it out well). There is a chance that the wood will swell and become more elastic. To securely fix the swelling, you can introduce PVA there, and then heat it with an iron.
If the swelling is cracked, you can also try to seal it with heating (through a rag). If it does not work, tear off the exfoliated piece. You don’t cut it off, but break it off: on the veneer, the fractures after restoration are less noticeable than the cuts. Therefore, you break off the lagging piece. From the place of damage and a piece of veneer are cleaned old glue(sandpaper or nail files - depending on the size). Further, the repair of veneer on furniture is standard: they smeared it with PVA glue, laid it, aligning the fault lines, laid a thick fabric on top and put the load to dry.
Scratches and traces of restoration on veneer are removed in the same way as on wood: they are painted over with a furniture marker of a suitable shade. If the scratch is deep, a little molten wax for furniture restoration is applied to it (with a spatula). After drying, the wax is rubbed, if necessary, fine-grained sandpaper is used, but after such processing, the restored piece is covered with a layer of varnish.
Do-it-yourself furniture restoration requires patience and accuracy. We have to act gradually and methodically: smeared, waiting for drying, leveled, smeared again, etc. Sometimes you have to try several methods: the damage is different, as are the materials used in the manufacture (glue, varnishes, etc.). But as a result, the furniture will look much better.
When sanding wood with worn or low-quality abrasive materials, the material is not cut, but smoothed.
As a result, due to the different hardness of the autumn and spring parts of the annual rings, the surface relief appears. This defect cannot be hidden when staining, unless we purposefully wanted to get such a result.
Why does the surface become shiny after sanding?
If the surface after grinding becomes shiny, then this does not mean at all that the surface has been polished, it is simply smoothed.
With subsequent finishing, the pile will rise again. In addition, there may be problems with poor stain absorption, with the appearance of stains on the surface or poor adhesion of the paintwork.
Paint the wood immediately after sanding!
Wood must be sanded at the lowest possible pressure on the surface.
Wood must be painted immediately after sanding to prevent dirt from getting on the surface or the release of substances from the wood that can reduce the adhesion of paints and varnishes.
It is also necessary to paint the wood immediately after intermediate sanding between two coats. paintwork material. If too much time has passed after sanding before painting, then sanding must be repeated.
Use grinders
Grinding machines allow you to get a much less wavy surface than hand sanding.
Usually, eccentric grinders are used with a periodic displacement of the center of rotation of the disk by 3-7 mm. The greater the rotation speed and the amplitude of the displacement of the center of the grinding disc, the faster, but also the rougher the surface treatment.
For the finest grinding, it is better to use machines with a center offset of 3 mm.
Check the humidity in the area
Microclimate in industrial premises it is desirable to bring closer to the storage conditions for storage of grinding materials.
To reduce the severity of problems with electrostatic adhesion of grinding dust, it is recommended to maintain humidity in the region of 70%, wipe the surface with antistatic wipes.
Adjust and continuously maintain the required air humidity for optimal performance abrasive tools at production sites will be helped by an air humidification system, for example, from one of the world leaders in the market for the production of industrial humidifiers from Merlin, Austria.
At the initial stage, use 120-150 grit sandpaper
Start your wood sanding job with 120 or 150 grit sandpaper and then work your way up to 180 grit.
In this way, you can achieve the desired state wooden surface before applying oil, varnish, stain or other coating.
When layering wood for sanding layers, use sandpaper with a grit of 280
If the wood is finished with layered coatings, then intermediate sanding will be required. In this case, each layer on the wood is sanded with sandpaper with a grain size of 280 units, and for final sanding with sandpaper with a grain size of 400 units.
Moisten the sanded wood surface to pick up any remaining lint in the final sanding step.
At the final stage of sanding, moisten the surface of the wood with a wet cloth. As a result, untreated fine fibers will rise and become visible and final polishing will be easily carried out.
Grinding machines will achieve excellent results, but often cause bad surprises.
We will tell you how to avoid the most common mistakes when applying them.
If you do everything right, with the help of sanding with your own hands you will achieve a very smooth surface. It is worth at least a little mistake, and you have to correct the defects.
The tips below will help you minimize this risk.
Correspondence of abrasive grit to wood properties
Potential problem: Deciding that sanding dense, fine-grained woods, such as walnut and cherry, is better with fine-grained paper, you inserted into the drill chuck sanding drum by wrapping it with a fresh piece of sandpaper No. 220, or secured on the sole eccentric sander a new blade and started sanding, pressing firmly on the part to quickly remove saw marks on the edges. Suddenly you smelled burning wood. On the top photo the result of such polishing is shown, only slightly exaggerated for clarity. Such a part, as a rule, has to be thrown away.
Correct Method: avoid the problem by using grinding discs or drums with a coarser grit such as 80 grit. After turning on the machine, move the part evenly, avoiding strong pressure, especially on the ends. You need to move the part from constant speed without stopping to prevent burns.
Vertical spindle machines with an oscillating drum are better at sanding hard and dense woods. The up and down movements of the spindle help dissipate the heat generated during grinding, unlike a conventional sanding drum mounted on drilling machine, but in this case it is necessary to constantly move the part.
If you need to grind the contours of the sawn part to the lines of the template, first saw it with a minimum allowance (no more than 1 mm) in order to minimize the grinding time and prevent overheating.
When do you need hand sanding?
Potential problem: You sand a primed surface or a dried coat of varnish before applying the next one, using sandpaper #220. Now you will have to completely remove the coating to bare wood and start over the damaged surface.
The right method: first determine whether you need intermediate grinding finishing layers.
Coatings such as nitro varnish partially dissolve the previously applied layer, so you can do without grinding. If you chose polyurethane without sanding, apply a second coat immediately after the first coat dries, which usually has a rough surface. After the second coat has dried, lightly sand it by hand with #320 elastic abrasive to create a roughness for strong adhesion of the next coat. Ready-made compositions for priming wood require especially gentle and careful grinding.
Contouring
Potential Problem: You are grinding a workpiece with a long smooth curve on a vertical spindle machine. When you stop to admire your work, you find a lot of ugly bumps on the curved edge.
The correct method: in this example, for clarity, we have shown a somewhat exaggerated result of such grinding. Always use a sanding drum largest diameter suitable for the bend radius. Instead of machine grinding, it is possible to successfully process such parts manually, using trimmings from sawing out a curved contour.
With coarse sandpaper, remove sawing marks from the edge of such trimming, trying not to change the outline of the edge. Then stick strips of sandpaper alternately on this edge, successively increasing the grit number from 60 to 180-220 units.
Sand the veneer carefully
Potential problem: By gluing the edge strips to a thin veneer lettuce, you are going to remove the protruding edges of the strips with a sander. In one place, which took a little longer to tinker with, the veneer on the part was rubbed through, exposing the lower layers of the substrate. Correct method: do not tilt the grinder when it is at the edge of the part, and do not press it against the surface, so as not to damage thin layer veneer and glued edging. If you are afraid of accidentally ruining your work, sand the edge plates flush by hand using #220 or finer grit sandpaper.
You can also cut off the excess veneer with a chisel, pressing it against the surface of the part with a flat edge, and finally sand it with sandpaper No. 220.
How to keep the surface flat
Potential problem: when gluing a board from allotment boards of the same thickness, it is not easy to achieve a perfectly even and flat surface with imperceptible gluing lines. And if you move the grinder back and forth along the glue line for a long time, trying to smooth out irregularities, you can get an even worse result - uneven gluing lines turn into noticeable depressions.
The right method: grinders (especially belt grinders) are not the best the best remedy for leveling surfaces. When gluing the board, carefully check all glue joints and correct the position of individual plot boards before the glue sets.
If the problem cannot be solved in this way, then after drying the shield with the help of an eye, determine the boundaries of the strip, the width of which is approximately twice the width of the sole of your grinder on either side of the glue line, and work the surface gradually, moving the tool in zigzags across the gluing line, so that over it no recess was formed.
How to keep your profile sharp
Potential problem: You are confident that you will be able to keep the running grinder at the same angle in order to work out all the recesses on the profile part. Unfortunately, the profile lines lost their clarity, and flat areas appeared on the convex places.
The right method: for simple profiles (such as fillets or fillets), make a profiled sanding pad from dense foam, shaping it into the desired shape band saw and sticking sandpaper (some types of glue dissolve the foam).
Another way to achieve excellent result: divide complex profile into several simple parts and process each of them with a separate profile block of the appropriate shape. This is not a very fast way, but it guarantees the clarity of the lines and the smoothness of the curved surfaces of the profile.