Floors different types have their own installation technology, which must be strictly followed.
The general rule is that the ceiling is aligned with the ceiling of the lower floor. Since it is this that gives spatial rigidity to the structure of the house, all its parts are rigidly connected to each other and to the walls (welding, concreting, anchors).
It is not allowed to punch holes in the floor slabs that are not provided for by the design (so as not to damage the ribs and reinforcement in the slab), shorten (cut) the floor slabs, or overload them during installation in excess of the standard load. The most common mistake is reducing the area of support of the ceiling on the wall(compared to design).
Consequences. Deflection and collapse of ceilings, cracks in walls and ceilings (for example , the permissible deflection for a round-hollow slab with a span of 6 m is 15 mm).
Elimination. If the deflection is greater than permissible, the load on the slab should be reduced or strengthened in a manner specified by a specialist.
How right. It is necessary to strictly follow the design and instructions for the technology of installation of floors. If, as a result of an error during the construction of the wall, the problem of insufficient support area has arisen, the specialist must develop a unit for this area that allows it to be increased.
Mistakes during roof construction
The attic wall is not reinforced
Consequences. The inclined rafters act on the attic wall in a horizontal direction, creating a thrust, which causes the wall to collapse.
Elimination. Convert the hanging rafter system to a layered one.
How to do it right . When constructing an attic wall, it is initially necessary to provide a layered rafter system (with a support point in the ridge area).
The vapor barrier film is not tightly installed
Consequences. There are pockets of steam penetration into the insulation, causing moisture to accumulate in the under-roof space. .jpg)
Elimination. Disassemble the structure, inspect the rafters, replace damaged elements. The insulation needs to be dried or replaced.
How right. When installing a vapor barrier, the film is placed on the walls around the perimeter of the attic. Special wide mounting tape Carefully seal joints and junctions with structures. The use of nails is prohibited.
There is no ventilation layer in the roofing “pie”
Consequences. Moisture can accumulate in the insulation, causing it to lose its properties.
Elimination. Disassemble the structure, inspect the rafters, eliminate damage, and re-install the roofing “pie”.
How right. The under-roof space must be ventilated through air gap, which is left between the insulation and waterproofing film. Without a gap, only a superdiffusion membrane can be laid on the insulation.
When installing bitumen and metal roofs (seam, metal tile), under which condensation forms, a ventilation gap is also installed directly under the roofing. Openings are left under the roof overhang for air flow, and devices for air outflow are installed in the ridge area.
The type of coating has been changed to a heavier one
Consequences. The rafters die, as a result of which the roof becomes deformed, begins to leak and may collapse.
Elimination. Strengthening the rafter system.
How right. When changing the type of roof, it is necessary to order from a design engineer a recalculation of the rafter system for a more massive covering.
A garage is not only a place where you can leave your car without fear of it being damaged by the weather, but also a workshop, in other words, a man’s refuge. This structure, first of all, must be invulnerable to precipitation, that is, there should be no leaks, so garage owners have to periodically cover and repair their roofs.
a - gable; b - attic; c - single-pitched; g - uneven gable.
The simplest and cheapest roof for a garage is a pitched roof.
Most minimum set The building materials needed to create such a garage roof are floor slabs and the roofing felt with which they are covered. But there are other ways to cover a roof with your own hands, without using floor slabs. They require a larger investment of time and money, but in this case you will do without the use of heavy construction equipment (crane).
What is a floor slab?
This is a flat rectangular block made of concrete or reinforced concrete. Iron concrete plates There are hollow and solid. In private construction, the former are the most popular. This is explained by the fact that a hollow reinforced concrete slab can be laid on your own, without the participation of a professional construction crew. In addition, longitudinal voids in the slab play the role of thermal insulation.
There are a great variety of slabs; they differ in size, types of reinforcement used in the manufacture of slabs and grades of concrete. Therefore, choosing slabs for your garage project will not be difficult for you. You need to choose their length, taking into account that they should rest at least 12-15 cm on a brick wall, and 7 cm on a concrete wall.
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How to lay a floor slab?
Scheme for laying floor slabs: 1 - slab, 2 - box with mortar, 3 - shovel, 4 - box with tools, 5 - crowbar.
In order to lay such slabs, you need a crane and two or three people. They are placed directly on the supporting walls, on which a layer of mortar has previously been placed. The solution must be sufficiently liquid; its task is to evenly transfer the load from the slabs to the supporting walls. Therefore, it is very important to monitor its quality.
The crane lifts the slab and holds it suspended. If she didn't stand exactly above necessary place laying, then using a crowbar or metal pipe, acting as levers, its location is regulated on its own. The slabs are adjusted to each other along the bottom side. To avoid horizontal displacement of the floor slabs, they are secured with a ring anchor to the support. After all the slabs have been installed, it is necessary to seal the joints and places of mounting loops with concrete mortar. Next, the ends of the slabs are laid with bricks. If this is not possible, then all the cracks are clogged with crushed stone and concreted. It is very good to fill the hollow holes in the slabs with crushed stone or expanded clay, not so much for additional thermal insulation, but to prevent the screed mortar from flowing there.
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Concrete slab garage roof repair
A concrete screed is needed to prevent moisture from condensation and precipitation from accumulating in the uneven areas of the slab.
If you are going to repair the roof of a garage covered with concrete slabs, then first of all determine: the slabs have already been covered with bitumen or they are new, waterproofing materials have been used or not yet.
If the roof is new, but without waterproofing, you need to make a concrete screed. This is done to prevent moisture from condensation and precipitation from accumulating in the uneven surfaces of the slab. From quality concrete screed will depend on how durable and strong the coating installed by yourself will be.
If the slabs have already been covered with roofing felt, then it is necessary to remove pieces of the fallen off coating. If there are bubbles, they need to be cut crosswise, the corners should be unfolded and all water and dirt should be removed from the voids. The roof is then inspected for cracks and, if any, carefully cleared.
After the analysis has been carried out and the roof surface has been cleared of dust and debris, you can begin priming it. For these purposes, bitumen mastic is used. It is better to cover the roof twice: the first with liquid mastic, the second with a thicker one. A new layer is applied after the previous one has absorbed and dried. The joints of the slabs, cracks, as well as the remains of the old coating, if any, are especially carefully coated with mastic. The second layer of mastic should not exceed 5 mm, so as not to be torn during frost.
After the primer has dried, you can begin to cover the roof with roofing felt, starting from the lowest edge of the roof. It is optimal to lay three layers of this material, each of which will be perpendicular to the next or simply offset relative to the joints (to cover the joints of the previous layer). In order to lay a strip of roofing felt, you need to roll out the material, leaving at least 10 cm to overlap with the other strip and 15 cm at the edges to wrap it under the roof visor. Next, the strip is rolled up again and begins gasoline burner warm up its lower side and gradually unfold it, straightening it with your hands or stamping it, so that no voids form. After the first layer of roofing felt has been laid, the roof is coated with mastic and they begin to lay the second layer of roofing felt using the same technology, and then the third.
Tools you will need:
- level;
- metal brush;
- Master OK;
- spatulas;
- shovel;
- several rules, of different lengths;
- hard brushes for applying mastic;
- containers for preparing or pouring mastic, for concrete mortar;
- an industrial hair dryer or a gas or gasoline burner.
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How to cover a garage without using floor slabs?
If you do not have the opportunity to purchase floor slabs or you expect difficulties with their installation, then you can cover the garage with your own hands without them. There are several methods that are almost as popular: a timber roof and the use of I-beams.
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Roof installation technology using I-beams
Steel I-beams with a height of 100-120 mm are laid across the garage on long wall. They need to be chosen 20-25 cm longer than the width of your garage. They should be mounted in such a way that at least 10 cm of the beam extends into the wall and follows its slope. The distance between the two beams should not exceed 80 cm. After installation, boards 40 mm wide are laid along their lower shelves. They should be placed as tightly as possible, moving them with your hands if necessary. It must be remembered that in front and behind the garage there must be 20 cm canopies, which are also made from 40 mm boards, nailing an additional board perpendicular to them along the edge. Attach the visors under top shelf extreme beams. Before laying, the beams should be painted, and the boards should be treated with an antiseptic and also covered with paint.
The beams are located at the same distance and filling elements are laid on them, which perform an enclosing function.
After all the boards are laid and the ceilings are sewn up, roofing felt is rolled out across the garage on top of them. The amount of roofing material must be calculated in such a way that there is 10 cm left on each edge, bent upward. Next, the entire space, flush with the top of the beams, is covered with slag, expanded clay, or mineral slabs are laid. The roof canopy is also insulated, trying to equalize the level of the perpendicularly nailed board with the rest of the roof plane.
On top of the insulation layer is made cement strainer thickness from 20 mm, but 30-35 mm is considered the most optimal. The screed should be smooth, without strong depressions or humps. If you place a 2 m lath anywhere on the roof, the space under it should not exceed 5-7 cm. At this stage, the garage roof is ready, but if it is left in this form, then after rain it will begin to absorb water and will leak.
As waterproof protective materials the same roofing material is used that was placed after the sheathing, or its analogues, for example, rubemast and bikrost. The basis of these modern materials is fiberglass, which increases their service life. They are glued to the roof in one of two ways: with bitumen mastic or by fusing.
Bitumen mastic, which is sometimes called a primer, can be purchased or made with your own hands from molten bitumen and diesel fuel or used motor oil. This is done in this way: one part of molten bitumen is poured into three parts of diesel fuel or oil. It is very important to pour bitumen into diesel fuel, and not vice versa. After preparing the primer, it is used to process a well-dried screed and, rolling out the roofing material, glue it so that the overlaps are at least 10 cm.
It is very convenient to do this together: one person coats the roof with bitumen mastic, the second rolls out the roofing felt, straightening it with his hands so that no bubbles form. If you use the fusing method, then an assistant will not be superfluous. In this case, one person warms up roofing material using an industrial hair dryer or torch, and the second one unfolds and presses it to the base.
1 - I-beam No. 14; 2 - concrete; 3 - floor; 4 - slag concrete screed (2-3 cm); 5 - slabs of sawdust concrete (8.5 cm, roofing cardboard AB-004 on the bottom); 6 - reinforced slag concrete slabs (6.5 cm); 7 - lime-cement plaster (1 cm).
The most optimal method is considered to be the directional method or a combination of both methods (coat the roof with bitumen mastic as a primer, and then fuse roofing material), since bitumen mastic cracks over time and the waterproofing of the roof is damaged. Roofing felt should be applied starting from the lowest edge of the roof. Moving up the slope, you need to glue strips across the roof. From both ends of the roof, the roofing material must be overlapped onto the end board of the canopy.
Required tools:
- level;
- metal rod for checking straight lines;
- wood hacksaw;
- electric jigsaw;
- hammer;
- brushes for paint, antiseptic and bitumen mastic;
- shovel;
- roofing or other sharp knife;
- containers for concrete mixture and bitumen mastic;
- rules of different lengths;
- a gasoline or gas burner or an industrial hair dryer.
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Wooden garage roof
The use of wooden beams is strictly regulated building codes and is limited by the span width.
Such a roof is built from wooden rafters and lathing. How rafters are used metallic profile, but this greatly complicates the process of installing the roof with your own hands and is economically unprofitable. A wooden roof can be single-pitch or gable, where you can arrange a warehouse or mini-workshop in the attic.
For rafters, take a board of at least 150x40 mm. If the roof slope angle is small, then it is better to take a 150x60 mm beam and install it vertically. For sheathing, a beam of 50x50 mm or more, depending on the bevel angle, or a board of 150x25 mm is suitable. Be sure to consider that the smaller the angle of inclination pitched roof, the greater the snow pressure will be in winter, so you should choose more durable materials. After rafter system and the sheathing is finished, garage roof It is worth vapor barrier and insulation. All wooden parts must be treated with an antiseptic.
Reinforced polyethylene is suitable as a vapor barrier material; it is laid with an overlap between strips of 10 cm, which are additionally glued with adhesive tape. Mineral wool in slabs is laid on top of it, which acts as insulation. It is laid in 2-3 layers between the rafters so that there are no gaps left.
a - wooden floor beams: 1 - beam with one cranial beam (outermost); 2 — beam with two cranial bars (middle); 3 — cranial bars; 4 - nails K4x100 with a pitch of 20 cm; b — wooden shield ceilings: 1 - flooring boards; 2 — transverse strips; 3 — linings; 4 - nails K3.5x90.
The last layer is laid roof covering, for example, corrugated sheeting, which you can simply install with your own hands. It is necessary to align each profile sheet along the lower edge of the roof with an allowance of 20 cm, gradually moving upward. If, as a result, there are irregularities in the upper part of the roof along the profile, this will hide the visor.
To install such a roof you will need the following tools:
- wood hacksaw;
- electric jigsaw;
- Circular Saw;
- screwdriver;
- hammer;
- screwdriver;
- level;
- long staff for checking straight lines;
- roofing or other sharp knife;
- metal scissors;
- punch;
- ticks different types for bending metal;
- files for grinding cuts.
The attic floor is one of the most important structural elements building. It is incorrect to think that it is intended only to form the floor and ceiling. Its main function is horizontal connection walls of the building.
Construction of the attic floor
There are 2 types of installation of floors between the attic and the main rooms of the house. The most commonly used technologies are:
- laying a reinforced concrete slab;
- installation on wooden joists.
Methods for constructing attic floors are selected depending on the material from which the building is constructed. If it is brick, use concrete slabs. For buildings made of timber, sandwich panels, foam and gas blocks, the preferred option is installation on wooden joists.
What materials are required for installation of the ceiling:
- standard reinforced concrete slabs, wooden beams;
- metal beams, reinforcement, cement;
- sand, gravel (if concreting is done by hand);
- reinforced concrete beams, means for fire-bioprotective treatment of wood;
- compositions for increasing the coefficient of moisture and frost resistance of concrete;
- roofing felt, steam and waterproofing membranes and films.
Flooring on wooden beams
Undoubted dignity wooden elements- simplicity, convenience and speed of construction. This method pleases developers with lower construction costs than when installing reinforced concrete slabs or self-concreting. When constructing economy-class houses, the prefabricated and hemmed method of constructing wooden floors is used.
If you have 2-3 assistants, all work can be completed within one working day. Installation attic floor on wooden beams does not require a construction site lifting special equipment. Wooden beams are raised to the desired height with your own hands or with the help of special devices using a winch.
The light weight of the wooden attic floor significantly reduces the load on the foundation. Any sound and heat insulator can be placed in the space between the joists. If hygroscopic materials such as mineral wool, then they carry out work on steam and waterproofing the attic.
The disadvantages of flooring on wooden beams include:
- lower load-bearing capacity than when using concrete slabs;
- flammability of the material;
- need for additional work to ensure the strength of the floor so that it does not become a source of squeaks.
Installation technology
For the installation of the ceiling, timber with a cross section of 150x250x100 mm, 150x250x200 mm or 100x250x40-80 mm is used. In the absence of a sufficient amount of this lumber, double boards 4-5 cm thick are used. For filing beams at the top and bottom, sheet or slab materials of sufficient rigidity: plywood, chipboard, DSP, OSB.
It is recommended to use sheets with a thickness of at least 8 mm. The hemming can be made either directly along the joists or over a pre-assembled sheathing made of thin bars with a cross-section of 4x4 or 4-5 cm. Nails and wood screws of sufficient length are used as fastening elements.
In the process of preparing for installation of the ceiling, a thermal engineering calculation is performed and the required thickness designs. Then choose a lag laying scheme. There are 2 options: the ends of the beams are located within external walls buildings or protrude beyond them by 20-40 cm.
- the length of the wall is rounded up;
- calculate the required number of beams;
- add to this indicator 2 more beams, which will be on opposite walls of the house.
Stages of work on installing an attic floor using wooden beams: 
- Preparing lumber of the required length, lifting it up. Laying 2 outer wooden beams on the walls of the building. Carrying out markings for installation of intermediate joists.
- Flooring waterproofing material into pre-built nests (niches, recesses) in the walls for the ends of the beams. Laying timber. Sealing holes: the resulting gaps between the timber and the walls of the nests are covered with insulation. You can use frost- and moisture-resistant polyurethane foam.
- Perform lathing on the underside of the ceiling if necessary. Mounting the bottom frame. Bookmark steam and thermal insulation material into the openings between wooden beams. Installation of the top casing.
The ceiling of a garage or other buildings is erected in a similar way. It can be either an independent structural element of the building or part of the roof. In the second case, the construction is load-bearing element roofs.
This method of arranging an attic is optimal if you need to cover the roof with corrugated sheeting or some other finishing material. In this case, the roof is directly adjacent to the ceiling.
When constructing urban high-rise buildings and industrial facilities, the basis of a flat roof usually becomes reinforced concrete slab. But for private houses, especially frame and wooden ones, such a choice is most often unacceptable. In this case, a flat roof is built on wooden beams. Its main advantage is its light weight, which reduces the load on the walls and foundation.
The installation of such a roof is simpler and cheaper than using heavy reinforced concrete slabs. But the functionality is the same. Therefore, this option of a flat roof is often chosen by those who want to build it with their own hands.
The main share of such roofs falls on private houses and cottages, whose owners value futuristic style, convenience and practicality. Also - for covering verandas, terraces, balconies, garages. As a rule, all these buildings are wooden or frame, requiring a lightweight roof structure. But this is not a mandatory rule. The wall material can be anything - brick, aerated concrete, foam concrete, etc. In this case, wooden beams often crash into the mauerlat - wooden beam, running along the perimeter of the walls and connected to them using anchor bolts or studs.
Flat roof is especially attractive for developers because its horizontal surface can be used as usable area. Moreover, this is possible even for a roof with wooden beams at its base.
Of course, you shouldn’t use the freed up meters for a parking lot, swimming pool or tennis court. Still, such projects require a more monumental foundation. And here open terrace, observation deck, home greenhouse, wooden beams can easily withstand. The main thing is to make the calculation correctly and not skimp on the thickness of the lumber.
Types of flat roofs on beams
On wooden floors You can build the following types of flat roofs:
- unexploited;
- exploited;
- inversion
That is everything possible types- no limits.
Unused roof– ordinary, completed with a waterproofing finishing coating. It is intended solely to protect the premises from conditions environment and does not set itself other goals. It is forbidden to use it as a place of rest, move in large groups, or install terrace furniture and flowerpots. The covering of such a roof is designed for the fact that 1-2 people will periodically climb onto it, solely for maintenance of the structure.
Operable roof- already more interesting and more complex. In addition to its direct protective functions, such a roof plays the role of additional usable space for the homeowner. The design pie ends not with waterproofing (prone to damage), but protective coating– paving stones, decking, wooden flooring, paving slabs, turf layer, crushed stone or gravel.
Inversion roof– inverted roofing, a qualitatively different option. It can be either exploited or unexploited. Its peculiarity is the inverted order of placing layers in the pie. If in a conventional roof the waterproofing is laid on top of the insulation, then in an inversion roof the opposite is true. The waterproofing lies under the insulation, and the vapor barrier is completely excluded from the structure of the cake. Due to this, the waterproofing is protected from the street environment and its service life is increased.
However, under the influence of unfavorable street conditions, insulation appears, so in the composition of inversion roofs the choice of this type isolation is limited. Only EPS (extruded polystyrene foam) and nothing more! This material has virtually zero water absorption, high density and strength. On top of the EPS in inversion roofs is loaded with washed gravel, paving stones, paving slabs or turf layer.
An interesting option for exploited roofs (including inversion ones) is green roof. It can also be supported on wooden beams. The pie of such a roof ends with a soil layer on which plants are planted. There are other elements that are not used for other types of roofs: a drainage layer (gravel, expanded clay, crushed pumice or geomats), a filtration layer (geotextile).
Flat roof frame on a wooden base
The frame of the described roofs is made of wooden beams laid like an interfloor ceiling. Full-size timber lumber or composite lumber (laminated veneer lumber) can be used. Often beams are made from boards with a section of 100x150 mm.
The beams are laid with support on the walls, similarly interfloor ceilings. If the building is wooden or frame, then the beams rest on upper crown logs or top trim. If it is brick or block, then on a pre-fixed Mauerlat. A timber with a cross section of 150x150 mm or 150x100 mm is usually used as a Mauerlat. It is mounted on upper belt walls using anchors or studs. To protect the wooden Mauerlat from the wall material, 1-2 layers of waterproofing (roofing felt) are laid between them.
Cuts are made on the beams under the Mauerlat, they are laid and secured with metal corners or nails. The pitch between the beams is maintained at 50-120 mm (depending on the calculated load).
When installing beams, it is important to ensure a roof slope of 1-6°. Despite the fact that the roof is called flat, it is not absolutely horizontal. A slight slope is necessary to ensure that water moves towards the drain and thus prevents it from stagnating.
You can create the required slope in the following ways:
- Immediately lay the beams with the desired slope. Then, if a horizontal ceiling is supposed to be installed under the roof in the room, it is made suspended or sewn onto a horizontal sheathing.
- Lay the beams horizontally, and nail wooden plates of different heights to them to maintain the required angle.
- Lay the beams horizontally and form the angle using different thicknesses thermal insulation laid on top of the frame.
- Use beams with unequal allowance in height.
Most often, the first option is used, that is, the beams are immediately laid with a slope. The easiest way to do this is to fasten along the top load-bearing wall a strong purlin made of timber or boards that will lift the frame (beams) on one side. Instead of a transverse purlin, you can also install short radial beams extending from the central double diagonal beam.
Flat roof pie: what's inside?
A flat roof pie on a wooden frame can have different structure. There are many design options, many of them are posted on the Internet. And they will all work!
Option 1. Roof with insulation over beams
Flat roof insulation layers can be laid on top of the beams. For example, a proven working option (classic roofing with insulation):
- floor beams;
- vapor barrier;
- waterproofing material – polymer membrane.
When using EPPS insulation and PVC membranes simultaneously in the structure, a separating layer (geotextile, fiberglass) must be laid between them. The fact is that these two materials are incompatible and when they come into direct contact, the PVC is destroyed.
The polymer membrane is fixed to the insulation mechanical method or loaded with ballast. Crushed stone or gravel (for all types of roofs), paving stones (for maintained roofs), and soil (for green maintained roofs) are used as ballast. However, when choosing ballast, you should soberly assess the reliability wooden frame, its maximum load.
If as finishing coating It is assumed that a built-up waterproofing or EPDM membrane with adhesive fixation will be used; a change is made to the scheme discussed above. It consists in laying sheets of plywood, OSB or DSP between the insulation and waterproofing.
This results in the following diagram:
- floor beams;
- lathing (if necessary);
- continuous cladding made of plywood, CBPB, OSB;
- vapor barrier;
- insulation – EPPS, mineral wool;
- plywood sheets, OSB, DSP;
- waterproofing material.
Installation of a built-up roof traditionally requires the use of a gas burner, therefore, according to existing fire standards, it is not allowed wooden structures. Therefore, they act as follows. The first layer of waterproofing is nailed or glued to wooden base, and the second layer is fused as it should be. It is also convenient to use euroroofing felt with a special adhesive base, for which it is recommended cold installation without heating with a burner.
Installation membrane roofing on a wooden base is shown in the video:
Option #2. Roof with interbeam insulation
Another principle of assembling a flat roof pie is associated with laying insulation in the space between the beams. This option is more convenient than the first if they are used as waterproofing. EPDM membranes with adhesive fixation or built-up roofing.
The following roofing pie scheme is often used:
- floor beams;
- vapor barrier (between beams);
- insulation (between beams);
- lathing (if necessary);
- continuous cladding made of plywood, CBPB, OSB;
- waterproofing.
In principle, a similar system is used in the formation of classic pitched roofs.
Option #3. Roof with internal insulation
In this case, on load-bearing structure(beams) are sewn on sheets of plywood, OSB or DSP, and waterproofing is laid on them. The remaining insulating layers of the roofing pie are sewn on the side of the room.
A rough ceiling (made of boards or sheet materials), to it, perpendicular load-bearing beams, screw the slats in increments of 40 cm. Place between the slats polystyrene foam boards, gluing them to mastic or glue. A vapor barrier film is sewn to the insulating layer. Cover the insulation cake with a finished ceiling.
Or you can go against all “traditional” solutions and build an inversion roof on beams. Due to the fact that the waterproofing will be covered with insulation, that is, protected from loads, exposure to oxygen, UV rays and precipitation, its service life is significantly increased.
When constructing an inversion roof, you can use the following diagram (from bottom to top):
- beams;
- continuous sheathing;
- waterproofing;
- separating layer (when using PVC membrane as waterproofing);
- EPPS insulation;
- separating layer – geotextile;
- ballast, paving slabs, decking, etc.
The principle of inversion roofing is often used to install green roofs. For example, you can do this:
What topcoat should I use?
The wooden base of a flat roof, along with its advantages, also has features with a minus sign. This is an increased fire hazard and low load bearing capacity(compared to reinforced concrete slabs).
To waterproof such a roof, it is advisable to use materials that do not require hot installation. Ideally, polymer membranes. When choosing built-up bitumen-polymer coatings (from the Euroroofing felt series), the first layer of material is installed mechanically, and the second - by fusing. In order to minimize the possibility of fire in structures during installation, it is recommended to use non-combustible CBPB boards as continuous cladding (on which the waterproofing is laid).
When constructing serviceable and ballasted roofs, it should also be remembered that excessive load for wooden base can be fatal. Therefore, if the load-bearing capacity of the beams used is small, lightweight materials should be selected for the finishing coating - decking, deck board, rubber paving slabs (rubber mats) and so on.