Nutritious lily bulbs are very fond of not only rodents, but also smaller pests. In addition, the succulent stems and fleshy leaves of plants infect viral and fungal diseases that spoil appearance flowers and can even completely destroy them.
To cure a lily, first of all, it is necessary to correctly determine the cause of its damage. Read this article to learn how to determine which pest has settled on your beauties, as well as distinguish between fungal and viral diseases.
Fungal diseases of lilies
Lily is attacked by fungal infections found in many flower crops. The spread of rot is facilitated by high humidity, improper care, lack of preventive measures.
Of all fungal diseases, gray rot is the most dangerous. Initially, the disease affects the lower leaves of plants, but very quickly spreads to all parts of the flower.
Signs
The first signs of gray rot are brown round spots, which in the process of development are transformed into brown mucous tissue with a gray coating. Gray mold spreads in rainy and damp weather, as well as when sharp drops temperature. Affected lilies do not die, but only slow down in growth and lose their decorative effect.
Control measures
It is difficult to stop the disease, since the pathogen hibernates in bulbs and plant debris. Therefore, before planting, the bulbs must be soaked in a 0.5-1% solution of a TMTD dressing agent or in a 0.25-0.5% Fundazole suspension. When the first signs of the disease appear, the flowers are treated every 1-1.5 weeks with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid or another fungicide (Fundazol, Hom, Oxyhom).
Fusarium
Fusarium is a rot that affects the bottom of a lily bulb. A plant that normally develops during the growing season dies during wintering. The cause of the disease is dampness, introduction organic fertilizers containing spores of the fungus.
Signs
The defeat of the fungus begins at the bottom of the bulb. Where scales attach to it, the lily bulb turns brown and falls apart. It is almost impossible to recognize this disease on a growing flower, since it can develop normally due to the supra-luminal roots that are not damaged by the fungus. Nevertheless, in winter, the plant is doomed to inevitable death.
Control measures
Disinfect the soil with copper sulfate and formalin 2-3 weeks before planting the bulbs. Soak the onions themselves for half an hour in a 0.2% solution of Fundazole. Spray plantings every 1-1.5 weeks with a 0.1% solution of Fundazol or Bavistin. You can also carry out treatments with 0.2% Topsin-M or Euparen solution.
Phithium is a disease of lilies, which causes rotting of the roots, as a result of which the development of culture is disrupted: the plant receives less nutrients and moisture. Affected lily loses its decorative effect, blooms poorly.
Signs
The tops of the leaves turn yellow, the lily dries. The roots of the bulb are covered with brown spots.
Control measures
Remove the affected parts of the plant. Before planting, infect the soil with a 0.4% solution of colloidal sulfur, soak the bulbs for half an hour in a 0.2% Fundazole solution.
Blue mold attacks the bulbs during storage.
Signs
White spots of fungal hyphae with a greenish bloom on the bulbs. When you dig up the bulbs, you will notice that they have turned yellow and their roots are dead.
Control measures
Rejection of diseased bulbs. Compliance with storage rules. Ventilation and disinfection of the store.
Penicillosis
Penicillosis affects all parts of the lilies and provokes their decay.
Signs
Bulbs, flowers, stems are covered with a green bloom. Diseased plants are stunted and form weak peduncles.
Control measures
Observe storage rules. When the first signs appear, pickle the affected bulbs in a 0.2% solution of potassium permanganate.
Rust
This disease is transmitted through plant debris contaminated with fungal spores.
Signs
The first signs of the disease are small colorless spots that turn yellow over time. Pads of red spores appear on the surface of the spots. As a result, the stems and leaves of the lilies dry out.
Control measures
Remove and burn affected leaves. Spray the plants with a 0.2% solution of Tsineb and regularly feed them with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. Re-plant lilies in the area where rusty bulbs grew, no earlier than 3 years later.
Lily viral diseases
Bulbous viral diseases are spread by pests (aphids and thrips) or by the growers themselves through infected garden tools.
Cucumber and tobacco mosaic viruses
A fairly common disease of lilies, which is carried by aphids.
Signs
Cucumber and tobacco mosaic viruses appear as light streaks and ring spots on leaves and flowers. As a result of the defeat, the lily stem is deformed, stops growing.
Control measures
Regularly inspect lilies and remove suspicious leaves, destroy specimens affected by mosaics. Disinfect garden tools. In order to control the vector of the disease (aphids), spray the plantings with a 0.3% solution of Karbofos.
Tulip variegation virus
This virus takes up residence inside the cells of lilies. Most often, aphids are transferred from tulips.
Signs
The variegated virus disrupts the pigmentation of the petals, as a result of which flowers appear with strokes, strokes, spots of a different color. Diseased bulbs of the next generation decrease in size, the plants weaken, the variety gradually degenerates.
Control measures
Spray plantings with a 0.3% solution of Karbofos to protect them from aphids. Regularly inspect lilies and remove suspicious leaves, destroy specimens affected by mosaics. Disinfect garden tools.
Rosette disease
The onset of this disease in lilies is provoked by a whole complex of viruses.
Signs
Lilies infected with this virus are characterized by thickening and yellowing of the stem and the absence of flowers.
Control measures
Spray plantings with a 0.3% solution of Karbofos to protect them from aphids. Regularly inspect lilies and remove suspicious leaves, destroy specimens affected by mosaics. Disinfect garden tools before any manipulations with bulbs and aboveground parts of plants.
Lily pests
There are about 15 types of pests that affect lilies. These small insects weaken plants and carry viruses. Let's list the most dangerous of them.
Spider mite
This pest feeds on the juice of young shoots, which inhibits the growth of lilies. Eggs red spider mite can live in soil for up to 5 years.
Signs
The lily leaves curl, the plant itself gradually dries up. Upon closer inspection, the leaves show white eggs and adult red spider mites.
Control measures
If a pest is detected, spray the plants soapy water, 0.2% solution of Karbofos or acaricide (Apollo, Aktofit, etc.).
Squeak beetle (lily beetle, bulbous rattle)
Bright red squeak beetle lays larvae on lily leaves color pink covered with green-brown slime, which can strip plants of almost all leaves.
Signs
Larvae and adults of the pest visible to the naked eye.
Control measures
Spray the plants with a 0.2% solution of Karbofos or another insecticide (Inta-Vir, Decis).
The lily fly starts inside an unpainted lily bud. Damage will become noticeable when the fly larva has already done "its job" and pupated in the ground.
Signs
Eaten pistils and anthers of stamens on flowers.
Control measures
Destroy damaged buds. Spray plants with 0.2% solution of Karbofos or other insecticide (Ditox, EC, etc.).
Medvedka
The bear eats the roots, bulbs and stems of the lily.
Signs
The presence of a bear on the site can be seen by the holes in the soil. If you notice that the lily is dying, and numerous passages appear on the surface of the earth around the plant, most likely the reason is precisely in the defeat of the bear.
Control measures
Arrange traps for the bear in the ground. For example, pits with manure or slate shelters where the insect will crawl to warm up and lay eggs. Collected in one place, the bear will be easy to destroy. In late autumn, you need to dig deep into the ground in order to destroy the wintering stages of the pest.
Khrushch (beetle larva)
Like the bear, the grub larva eats the underground parts of the flower, which leads to its death.
Signs
White fleshy larvae are visible in the ground. In case of damage, the death of the plant occurs.
Control measures
Dig deep into the soil before planting, manually pick the larvae of the beetle out of it.
This pest lays eggs on the soil surface in May-June. Young individuals hatch from the eggs, which take root into the bulb, causing it to rot.
Signs
In late spring - early summer, small black flies begin to circle around the lilies, hovering in flight and making a characteristic babbling sound. If you spot these pests, chances are they have already deposited their larvae in the soil.
Control measures
Spray the plants with a 0.2% solution of Karbofos or another insecticide (Inta-Vir, etc.). Dig up the ground in autumn, cover with peat. Powder the bulbs with Bazudin before planting.
To reduce the number of pests, planting lilies should be kept clean, maintain normal soil moisture, remove plant debris, destroy pests, spray plants with insecticides.
We hope that now, if suddenly your lilies begin to "mope", you can easily establish the cause of their ill health, clearly identify the pest or disease and "declare war on them" in time. Take good care of your plants and don't get sick.
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Natalya Dishuk 12.02.2014 | 6340
If brown spots appear on the lily leaves, then the plant suffers from gray rot. How to deal with it?
Gray rot is especially common in climatic zones with moderate temperatures and big amount precipitation. Most often, perennials are ill with it. flower crops(lilies, peonies, tulips) in open ground... Pathogenic infection accumulates in the soil, roots, bulbs, and especially on the aerial parts of the plant during long-term cultivation in one place. In summer and spring, the infection spreads from diseased plants to healthy ones through water and air. Spores scatter during the growing season and fall on healthy plants, settle on the soil and weeds. Mycelium and spores overwinter on plant debris in the soil and in the root rosette of leaves. Optimum temperature for their development - 16-21 ° С.
Control measures
- Plant only healthy bulbs in an open, well-ventilated, sunny area.
- Do not overfeed with manure and nitrogen fertilizers- this reduces the resistance of plants to diseases.
- Kill weeds and pests that weaken plants.
- Cut off and burn the affected plant parts without waiting for the end of the growing season.
- Do not under any circumstances bury them with plant debris. If there is an infection in the bulb area, before planting, pickle in a fungicide solution (Topsin-M - 0.2%; Fundazol - 0.2%; Bordeaux liquid - 1%; copper oxychloride - 0.5%; Bayleton - 0.1%, Azophos - 2%). You can also spill the soil around the lilies with a solution of Maxim. It is effective against many fungal diseases, incl. gray rot. The fungicide kills the infection around and on the lily bulbs.
- But since the infection of stems, leaves and buds occurs mainly on the surface, it is more effective to spray the aerial part of the plants 2-3 times (with an interval of 16-20 days) with fungicide solutions before the disease and in case of its signs (specks on the leaves).
Often, gray rot affects the entire plant: leaves, buds, stems, flowers and seed pods, sometimes bulbs. First, dark brown spots appear, later turning pale in the center. On the leaves, they become transparent with darker watery edges. The spots increase in size, merge, cover all leaves and cause them to die off. When the bulbs are damaged, the same spots appear on the upper lobules. When the stem is damaged, the entire upper part of the plant turns brown and dries out. Sick buds do not open, turn brown. All diseased parts of plants in wet weather covered with sporulation of the fungus.
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Nadezhda Galynskaya 01/23/2014 | 5455
Exists great amount diseases affecting lilies. Let's consider the main ones.
Gray rot, or botrytis (Botrytis elliptica), appears in spring in cool weather with high humidity... Young leaves (startling from the bottom of the stem) look like they have been scalded with boiling water. Diseased buds bend, stems break, fall. Gray rot also affects wet leaves at the end of summer. The most resistant to the disease are OT and LA hybrids.
Susceptible - white-flowered hybrids. For protection, they are sprayed with Bordeaux liquid, copper-containing fungicides or other preparations. In a rainy summer, you need to spray it after 7-10 days on dry leaves.
Fusarium rot(bottom rot, basal rot) affects the bulbs - starting from the bottom, depressed ulcers and yellow-brown spots appear. Then it falls apart, the roots rot. Plants are infected through the roots and in places of mechanical damage.
Signs of fusarium- yellowing of the lower leaves and gradual drying of the entire plant. During the winter or during storage, the infected bulb dies. Disease contributes heat, waterlogging of the soil and the introduction of unripe organic matter.
Severely affected plants are dug up and destroyed. Effectively etching the bulbs 1-2 days before planting with a 0.2% suspension of Topsin-M or Fundazol (Benlat), 0.1% Tecto emulsion for 30 minutes. In the spring, fluff lime is scattered over the soil surface.
Sclerocial rot (fungi of the genus Sclerotium)- the reason for the low growth of plants and small leaves with sufficient soil fertility and good nutrition. It can only be found when the bulbs are dug up. The bulbs of the affected plants rot. The disease, the development of which is promoted by high humidity and acidity of the soil, manifests itself in foci. Weakly affected bulbs are kept in a solution of copper-containing preparations and transplanted to a new place. You can not thicken the planting.
Phithium, or root rot (fungi of the genus Phytium),- Plants are lagging behind in growth, the leaves become smaller, buds fall off or do not form, the tops of the leaves turn yellow. The bulb is healthy and the roots are covered with small brown spots. The development of the disease often occurs with waterlogging. Water the soil with a 0.2% Fundazol solution, 8-10 liters per 1 sq. m. For prophylaxis, before planting, the bulbs are treated with fungicides.
Colorless small spots that appear on the leaves, which increase in size, turn yellow and dry out, are caused by rust (Uromyces lilii). Summer and autumn sporulation of yellow-orange or dark brown color, respectively, are formed under the epidermis in these places. To combat rust, diseased leaves are collected and destroyed, the plants are sprayed 2-3 times with copper-containing preparations, more often they are fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.
If the peduncles, flowers and bulbs rot and become covered with a green bloom in warm and humid weather, the plants are affected by penicillosis (fungi of the genus Penicillium). For spraying, use any fungicides containing zinc, copper or a solution of raspberry-colored potassium permanganate.
Bacterial or wet rot (Pectobacterium carotovorum, Pectobacterium aroidea) affects bulbs, leaves and peduncles. In early spring, brown oval spots appear on the leaves, gradually turn yellow, then the leaves and peduncles rot. The disease develops due to waterlogging of the soil and excess nitrogen. During storage, unpleasant-smelling depressed spots appear on the scales of the bulbs, causing rotting. Such bulbs are immediately separated and destroyed. When a disease occurs during growth, lilies are sprayed with fungicides every ten days. Before planting, the bulbs are etched with Fundazol or watered with it in the soil in the hole.
Viral diseases
Lily mosaic virus determined by pale green spots on young leaves and stripes along the leaf veins. Plant growth stops. Leaves, buds and flowers are deformed. Mosaic virus is transmitted by aphids and mechanically with the sap of diseased plants.
At rosette lilies (Lily rosette virus) the peduncle is deformed and takes the form of a rosette, since its growth is greatly delayed. Chlorotic leaves are deformed. Cucumber and tobacco mosaic viruses cause ring spots and streaks on the leaves. It is advisable not to plant lilies next to tulips and hosts in order to avoid infection with the variegation virus, the control measures for which have not yet been developed. All diseased plants are burned. A preventive measure is the destruction of aphids as a carrier of the disease. Orleans hybrids are more resistant to viral diseases.
Noncommunicable diseases
Chlorosis- yellowing of the leaves between the veins is observed if the acidity of the soil is above normal - the soil is too alkaline.
Purple foliage associated with a lack of nutrition (due to rotting roots). It occurs on poorly drained soil in conditions of excessive moisture.
Deformation of leaves and curvature of stems(the formation of thickening and blistering) occurs when lilies are damaged by spring frosts. Tubular hybrids are most susceptible to damage from low temperatures.
Fasciation- accretion of several stems into one in case of accidental damage to the growth point. This phenomenon is observed only when good care when lilies are able to release several shoots from one bulb. The next year, a normal stem grows.
It happens that a bulb planted according to all the rules in the first year does not germinate (asleep) and does not die, but next spring it sprouts.
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Beauty lovers appreciated the graceful grace of lilies even before the beginning of our era. Since then, it has become a permanent adornment of flower arrangements and an addition to festive outfits. Today, lily also continues to evoke admiration and the lack of a blue tint in her colors is by no means considered a disadvantage. Like the rest of the bulbous, it is also loved for its simple planting method and undemanding care, while often forgetting about the peculiarities of the agricultural technology of such flowers. Meanwhile, it is precisely the observance of the conditions of planting and caring for lilies that makes it possible to receive full-fledged healthy flowering from them.
The probability of lily survival on garden plot and its resistance to diseases directly depends on the geographical origin of the plant (European, Caucasian, Asian or North American). Obviously, non-frost-resistant species from tropical regions (long-flowered, Japanese, Philippine) in a northern climate will find it difficult to survive frosts and even if they are sheltered for the winter, they will quickly die due to insufficient air humidity. In the southern conditions of the coastal hot climate, lilies of East Asian origin (Daurian, tiger and their hybrids) will develop poorly. The acidity of the soil for certain species is also associated with the origin of plants: slightly acidified soil is optimal for Asian species and hybrids, and slightly alkaline or neutral - for European, Caucasian and North American. A lily planted in unsuitable agro-climatic conditions grows weakened, is more often affected by pathogenic fungi and insect pests, is sick longer and dies quickly.
On unsuitable, highly alkaline soils, lilies develop chlorosis: on the leaves between the veins appear yellow spots... This phenomenon can also be observed during the period of frequent rains, when most of the trace elements are washed out of the soil. In case of chlorosis, it is recommended to apply under lilies inkstone before full recovery healthy color of plants or add peat and coniferous sawdust to the soil to acidify.
Defeat lilies spring frosts also looks like a manifestation of the disease: the outer layer of cells on young leaves peels off, they thicken, bend and become covered with bubbles. Frozen lilies do not die, but they also do not form buds this year. As a preventive measure against freezing, it is recommended to carry out high hilling of plants with earth in case of the danger of recurrent frosts.
Cases are not diseases " sleeping onion"And" flattened thickened stem ". In the first case, a practically healthy bulb may not show signs of development for a whole year, and in the second, several shoots grow together in a lily with sufficiently good care and the plant looks unnatural. Such violations, however, can be observed in lilies for only one year, in the future they usually develop.
In thickened plantings and with prolonged (more than 3 - 5 years) growing lilies in one place, the likelihood of damage increases fungal diseases... The most famous of them are:
Botris (gray rot)... The disease affects the leaves, stems and buds of lilies in damp, cool weather and improper watering when the moisture on them does not have time to dry before night. Brown spots appearing on the lower leaves grow quickly and merge into large areas brown mucous tissue covered with a gray bloom. The death of botris-diseased lily stems can occur in a matter of days, but timely protective measures allow you to preserve the bulbs and grow healthy plants from them next year. The fungus hibernates on affected plant debris and, in case of severe damage, in bulbs.
Ways to fight. For prevention purposes, it is recommended:
Bulbs before planting 30 - 60 min. pickle in a suspension of foundationol (0.5%) or TMTD (1%);
- change the place of planting lilies every 3 - 5 years;
- observe the sparseness of landings;
- watering at the root and only in the morning.
In case of forced planting, the top layer of the soil is partially replaced or treated with fungicides ("Oxyhom", "Hom"). In early spring, prophylactic spraying of lilies with solutions is carried out along the seedlings copper sulfate(0.5%), Bordeaux liquid (1%) or copper oxychloride (0.3%). If a disease is detected, spraying is carried out every 10 days, alternating preparations, the affected parts of the plants are removed from the site and burned. In a rainy season, mass death of flowers can be prevented by building a protective film over the lilies.
Fusarium... The disease affects lily bulbs in places of mechanical damage and manifests itself most noticeably during their storage: yellow-brown spots form in the places of attachment of scales, soft areas of rot grow and the bulb disintegrates. Externally, the beginning of the defeat of the lily by Fusarium can be determined by the yellowing and drying of the lower leaves on the stems. The active spread of the disease is observed in damp hot weather. The spores of the fungus persist in the soil for about 3 years.
Ways to fight. Weakly affected bulbs are freed from the affected scales, etched with foundation (0.2%) for 30 - 40 minutes. and planted in a new place, severely affected - removed from the site and destroyed. Before planting (2 - 3 weeks), the soil is disinfected with formalin (for 10 liters of water, 250 ml of a 40% solution is used to treat 1 cubic meter of soil). Soil cultivation and early spring spraying with foundationol (0.1%), euparen (0.2%), bavistin (0.05%) are carried out with the observance of precautions, since the preparations are toxic.
Rust... The disease affects the leaves, stems and bulbs of lilies, in which the spores of the fungus can hibernate. Small colorless spots that appear on the leaves gradually grow and turn yellow - they form fungal spores. Leaves and stems dry up, but dark brown growths remain on them, from which spores are released in spring and infect new plants.
Ways to fight. For prophylaxis, frequent potassium-phosphorus feeding of lilies and pre-planting of the bulbs are recommended. On weakly infected plants, the affected parts should be removed and destroyed; in case of severe damage, the lilies are removed from the site along with the bulbs. In early spring, prophylactic spraying is carried out on the seedlings (with Bordeaux liquid, copper oxychloride), and if signs of the disease are detected, with ditan M-45 (1%), polycarbacin (0.3%), cineb (0.5%) with an adhesive.
Sclerocial rot... The first sign of the manifestation of the disease is uneven shoots of lilies in the spring. When checking for lagging bulbs, you can find a thick white felt coating at the neck or on the bottom. In the future, the disease leads to damage and death of the roots and forming leaves. Favorable conditions for the fungus are high humidity at temperatures up to 13 ° C. With an increase in temperature, the active spread of the disease stops.
Ways to fight. They are similar to the methods of combating botris and fusarium: compliance with the recommended planting thickening, pre-planting dressing of the bulbs and disinfection of the soil before planting. Sick plants together with the soil should be removed, the foci of infection should be covered with ash or bleach. It is not recommended to plant lilies after bulbous, also prone to sclerocial rot (daffodils, tulips, hyacinths, gladioli).
Root rot... The disease affects the roots of the bulbs, they are covered with small brown spots. Plants are stunted and lose buds. The onset of the disease can be determined by the yellowing of the tops of the leaves, which gradually leads to the drying out of the entire stem.
Ways to fight:
Careful selection of planting material;
- mandatory disinfection of the soil with a solution of colloidal sulfur (0.4%) and pickling of the bulbs (Fundazol, TMTD) before planting;
- removal of affected plant parts from the site and their destruction.
Bacterial (soft) rot... It affects plants from early spring: oval brown spots appear on the leaves, which grow and cause rotting and falling of leaves and peduncles. On the bulbs during storage, rotting depressed spots with an unpleasant odor are found.
Ways to fight:
Inspection and destruction of contaminated planting material during storage;
- pre-planting treatment of bulbs and soil;
- preventive spraying in early spring, and if a disease is detected, spraying with fungicides every 10 days.
Carrying out preventive measures (disinfection of storage, selection and processing of planting material, reduction of soil moisture, change of site, thinning of plantings), you can successfully fight fungal diseases, which cannot be said about viral diseases. Unfortunately, viral diseases are difficult to diagnose and hardly amenable to treatment. They are spread by pests and sap through non-disinfected garden tools... Viral diseases manifest themselves in different ways: the color and shape of the flowers change, the leaves curl, the stems bend, the plants look oppressed and their decorative qualities deteriorate. Lilies infected with viruses are dug up with the bulbs as soon as possible and destroyed outside the site, otherwise the spread of the disease may lead to the loss of all specimens. The most common viral diseases are:
Variegated virus... The disease can be spread from tulips. A sign of damage is the spotty color of flowers, which is not characteristic of the variety. The disease is also transmitted by aphids with a garden tool.
Rosette disease... Caused by a complex of viruses. In the affected lily, the growth of the flowering shoot is sharply delayed, the stem is flattened and deformed, the leaves are formed twisted and chlorotic, the plant gradually withers and stops growing. The carrier is aphid.
Mosaic... Symptoms of the disease are often confused with those of botris: pale gray oblong stripes and spots appear on the leaves. An infected lily can bloom for several years and produce healthy, virus-free seeds, but over time it will die anyway. The disease with aphids is also transferred with a garden tool.
Ways to fight. In order to prevent viral diseases, lilies should be regularly examined and specimens with suspicious changes in the color of flowers or leaves should be removed. For cutting it is recommended to use a set of blades (one blade per one inflorescence), which is disinfected in boiling water or alcohol immediately after cutting. To control disease vectors (aphids), lilies should be periodically sprayed with karbofos (0.3%) or ragor (0.2%).
Lilies, their grace and gracefulness were appreciated by people even in distant times, which we call the period "BC". Until now, lilies that do not have a blue color, nevertheless, are full of a variety of varieties that delight in the widest range of colors. Even the shape of the flower began to differ - lilies are ordinary, have a turban-like shape, and even are double. However, all this beauty in an instant can be spoiled by a disease, it often arises through an oversight on the part of the owner, sometimes due to his carelessness and disregard for plants, and sometimes aphid colonies or an ordinary garden knife, which were previously cut off, can become carriers of diseases that are fatal to lilies. diseased plant.
Do not thicken the plantings too much, lilies love space, they will feel better blown by the fresh wind and warmed by the sun. If the plantings are too thick, then this can lead to the appearance of gray rot... This disease destroys both leaves and stems and buds, especially actively spreading in damp weather or with excessive watering. The first signs of the disease appear in the form of spots on the lower leaves, from light spots turn into brown ones and grow very quickly, merging into huge ones, covered with a gray bloom. Just a couple of days and your lily can die, and the infection will penetrate into the bulb and can be transferred with it to a neighboring area.
From preventive measures First of all, the obligatory removal of plant residues in the fall should be mentioned, for it is in them that the disease hibernates. Before planting on your site, be sure to disinfect all unfamiliar bulbs in a solution of foundationol. Change the planting site of lilies more often, this will revive the landscape and relieve the accumulation of disease in the soil. And finally, do not flood the plants, only water in the morning and pour the water under the root.
In spring, also for prophylaxis, plants can be treated with a 0.5% solution of copper sulfate, it is safe and effective, and in rainy weather, you can cover the plants by building a canopy from a greenhouse film.
Lily bulbs are also affected by another dangerous disease - fusarium... Most often, the disease appears exactly where the bulb was damaged during digging, therefore, careful, unhurried digging of the bulbs can get rid of its occurrence. It is natural that to notice the disease on initial stage is possible only during the storage period of the bulbs, so check the storage often, revising planting material... If you notice yellow-brown spots on the bulbs, then it's time to sound the alarm, because in just a week the bulb can rot, falling apart.
Of the control measures, first of all, one should mention the simple removal of the onion scales that begin to rot, or the treatment of the more severely damaged ones with a foundation solution.
Lily leaves, stems and bulbs are infect and rust... The first signs of the presence of this disease appear in the form of small colorless spots on the leaves, which gradually turn yellow and increase in size. Yellow- this is the most dangerous stage, it says that the spores of the fungus are ripe and can be carried by the wind over long distances, infecting still healthy plants. If you do not take any action, then the plant and a dozen more around it will simply dry out.
Simple potassium-phosphorus dressings can get rid of lily rust. If you notice the presence of colorless spots at the very beginning of the development of the disease, then immediately remove these parts of the plants and destroy. Spraying with Bordeaux liquid also helps, which is carried out along the seedlings in spring, and with a weak lesion, treatment with 0.5% Cineb helps.
Sclerocial rot is also considered a rather dangerous disease., it manifests itself in the form of uneven seedlings in early spring. The bulbs do not shoot, because a white felt bloom forms at the neck and on the bottom - traces of the fungus. If the disease develops a little later, when the bulb has already taken root and gave growth, then they will simply die off.
The fungus develops most actively in cool and humid weather, therefore, in order to maximally protect your lilies from the occurrence of such a serious disease, it is necessary to select only well-warmed bulbs for planting. open areas with loose soil, excellent moisture absorption.
Unfamiliar bulbs must be pickled and disinfected before planting. Diseased plants or suspicious bulbs should be immediately removed from the site and destroyed. In the place of their growth, it is necessary to dig a hole, remove part of the soil and fill the vacant place with ash or bleach.
Often the carriers of the disease are other bulbous plants, for example tulips or hyacinths, so it is better not to plant lilies after them.
Diseases affecting the roots of the bulbs include root rot... As a rule, at the beginning of the development of rot, the roots become covered with dark spots, and then begin to die off, which leads to lagging and weakening of plants and their subsequent death. Naturally, the roots are in the soil and it is impossible to determine the onset of the development of the disease by them, however, its signs appear on the leaves - their tops begin to turn yellow and dry out.
For prevention purposes, it is possible to recommend careful selection of planting material, regular disinfection of the soil with a solution of 0.4% colloidal sulfur, as well as the removal of affected plants from the site and their destruction.
By the defeat of leaves, even in early spring, by the formation of oval brown spots one can judge about the presence of another dangerous disease - bacterial rot... If you do not start treating infected plants with fungicides, then after a few days they may die due to the active vital activity of the fungus, leading to decay and fall of leaves and peduncles.
Bulbs are also affected by this disease, if you take such an onion in your hands and try to squeeze it lightly with your fingers, it will collapse, exposing a rotten core, which has an extremely unpleasant odor.
If an infected bulb is found, all stored with it must be reviewed and treated with a fungicide.
Before planting, if there is a risk of such a disease, the soil and bulbs must be treated with any fungicide in a weak concentration.
However, in addition to common fungal diseases, which can be easily dealt with by observing crop rotation, ventilating and drying storage facilities, not thickening or flooding the plantings, and also using only proven planting material, there are viral diseases that are extremely difficult to fight against. Aphid invasion or dirty garden tools - and your pets will start to wither and quickly lose most its attractiveness. Viral diseases can manifest themselves suddenly, the color of the flower suddenly changes, it becomes ugly, the stems or leaves twist ...
Fighting viral diseases must be cardinally necessary - the first thing to do is to dig up and remove a suspicious plant from the site, because in the event further development viruses can kill your entire collection.
There are actually quite a few viral diseases, but the most common and found on lilies are the following:
Transmitted from tulips variegated virus- the first sign of its presence is the spotted color of the flowers, atypical for the cultivated variety. The disease is transmitted by the aphid colony, it is also transmitted through the cutting tool.
A whole complex of viruses causes a disease - rosette... It manifests itself in a sharp delay in the growth of the flower-bearing victory. The shoot becomes flatter, and the stem is deformed, at the same time the leaves bend and become chlorotic. The plant slows down and withers. The main carrier of the virus is aphids.
Well, the mosaic known to many, it is often effectively disguised as a lighter disease - gray rot
... The first signs are pale gray stripes and specks on the leaves, after which the disease seems to stop developing. The lily grows, blooms and can even exist for quite a long time, but in the end it will die, and the infection will spread further with the help of aphids or a cutting tool.
Fight against viral diseases, as already mentioned, consists in the mandatory removal of all suspicious plants from the site. Well, prevention is much more humane, so if you are growing lilies for cutting, then be sure to have two or three on hand. cutting tools... After cutting one flower, simply immerse the instrument in a disinfectant liquid (alcohol, boiling water) using a different one, and then repeat the procedure.
Using clean tools in combination with the fight against aphids and ants that are its carriers, you will save your site as much as possible from the occurrence of very dangerous viral diseases.
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