If you decide to make scaffolding, you will have to choose from two materials: wood or metal. In the first case, you will get a disposable structure that can be made by anyone who knows how to work with wood, and in the second, it will be reusable, but also quite easy to make. In this article we will tell you how to make scaffolding with your own hands from metal ( profile pipe), as well as from wood (boards), we will demonstrate diagrams, photos and video instructions.
Although metal or wood is predominantly used for the manufacture of scaffolding, they may differ in the method of fastening, and accordingly have different functional elements in their design. So, let's look at the main types of forests.
The component elements are connected by a special wedge fixation. Scaffolds of this design are highly reliable. They are able to withstand quite large loads. At the same time, they are easy to use and can be quickly assembled and disassembled. The use of wedge scaffolding is especially important during construction and lifting of heavy materials and components.
The main element of this design is rigidly installed frame. They are mainly used for painting or plastering work. The frame in this design is connected to horizontal posts and diagonal braces thanks to node connections. Main advantage frame scaffolding in their cheapness. Their construction does not require large investments.
In these scaffoldings, the connection point, as is obvious from their name, is the pin. This type of scaffolding is very popular among builders, as they are very easy to assemble and disassemble directly on site. construction site. It often takes a day or even two to assemble the scaffolding. In this case, assembling the pin scaffolding will not take much time.
If the object where repair work is carried out has complex configuration, then the clamp scaffoldings are great solution. The fastening method used is professional. And for their manufacture, height and size play an important role. working area, distance between tiers and pitch of racks. All this is selected individually for each facility.
We invite you to familiarize yourself with a simple guide to making scaffolding from boards. To do this, follow a few simple sequential steps:
- Lay out 4 racks or boards parallel to each other on a flat area. Their size must immediately correspond to the height of the scaffolding.
- The racks are connected to each other by horizontal jumpers, on which the flooring will later be laid.
- Place the 2 frames made horizontally opposite each other, tie them diagonally and horizontally with boards that will serve as ties.
- Lay the flooring from the boards on the horizontal ties and attach it to the lintels with self-tapping screws.
- Attach the railings to the posts and secure the stairs.
If you need to lengthen the scaffolding structure, connect several similar sections of boards together. The boards are placed on the support posts.
When assembling wooden scaffolding, if nails are used, it is recommended to pre-drill holes to prevent the boards from splitting.
Design
All forests consist of the following elements:
- racks;
- diagonal and horizontal struts (they give spatial strength to the structure);
- flooring lintels;
- a flooring made of boards on which a person will stand;
- stops (to create stability of the scaffolding and prevent it from falling away from the wall);
- a fencing element (so that a person standing on the flooring does not fall down);
- ladder (stepladder) for climbing required level forests
Made of wood and boards
You can find quite a lot of advice on how to make scaffolding on the Internet. Moreover, the recommended designs differ mainly from each other only in the thickness of the board and the size of the scaffolding itself. To avoid getting confused in all this “diversity,” try to focus on the following values:
Let's get started:
- Prepare the necessary materials in advance:
- boards with a thickness of at least 50 mm and a width of 100 mm (or round timber, or timber 10x10 cm) - for racks and stops;
- boards for spacers and fencing 30 mm thick;
- boards for lintels and flooring 50 mm thick;
- nails (screws in this case are less reliable).
Photo instructions
We invite you to view a number of photographs on the topic of how to make wooden scaffolding yourself:
From a profile pipe
Now about how to make scaffolding (collapsible) from metal (dimensions of one section: height - 1.5 meters, width 1 meter, length 1.65 meters). Determine the number of sections based on the height you need scaffolding.
- Prepare the necessary materials:
- for racks - profile pipe (square section) 30x30 mm - length 1500 mm;
- for spacers - a pipe with a diameter of 15 mm;
- for connecting inserts (adapters) – profile pipe 25x25 mm;
- Make the flooring from boards 40-50 mm thick and 210-220 cm long.
- for diagonal elements – 2 meters;
- for horizontal elements connecting the racks from the sides of the structure - 96 cm each.
"Pros and cons"
Firstly, scaffolding is not a small scaffolding, but a rather bulky structure that will need to be stored somewhere after the need for it disappears.
Wooden scaffolding, of course, can be disassembled later, but the work is labor-intensive, and the boards, if you don’t need them in the near future, also need to be stored somewhere. Do not forget that wooden scaffolding is assembled using nails, not screws, so the boards will no longer be completely intact. In addition, when working on scaffolding, the wood often gets dirty with mortar or paint.
Homemade metal scaffolding It will be possible not only to disassemble, but also to rent out in the future.
Secondly, non-prefabricated scaffolding is designed to work maximum at the second floor level (from the ground). Operation at higher altitudes homemade scaffolding becomes dangerous.
Thirdly, scaffolding is required quite rarely (only for repairing the facade of a building), so the assembly and disassembly of such a temporary structure is not profitable in terms of the time spent on this work.
Fourthly, scaffolding often has to be made long (for example, at least 6 meters for installing siding). Accordingly, their weight increases, and moving homemade wooden scaffolding to the other side of the house becomes a problem even for three or four people.
It is worth thinking about forests at the stage of designing a house.
If facade works you do not plan to do it yourself (but are going to hire construction team), then you don’t have to think too much about scaffolding, since builders usually come to the site with their own scaffolding and scaffolding.
However, after construction is completed (and after some time has passed), scaffolding may be needed for minor facade repair work. Can this be avoided?
Certainly. And first, make sure that the facade of your house does not require repairs for many years. To do this, it is enough to use it when building walls. facing brick. Now it is produced by many manufacturers and in a fairly wide range of colors.
But others facing materials(such as siding, plaster and others) will periodically require your attention and, accordingly, additional costs, since you will not be able to make scaffolding (buy or rent) for free.
Video
From this video you will learn how to make scaffolding for apartment renovation:
Photo
The photographs show various designs scaffolding:
Scheme
The diagrams will help you design your own scaffolding:
Sooner or later, construction reaches the finishing of the facade. And here the need arises to carry out work in the height range from 4 to 10 meters. After all, the gables need to be hemmed, the siding needs to be installed, the façade elements need to be painted, and drainage system install.
There is only one way out - to install scaffolding or a tower. But industrial building construction expensive, and the price of a tower with a working height of 8-10 meters is very steep. You can rent them, but if the work takes a long time, such a rental will cost a pretty penny.
Metal or wood
Scaffolding can be made of wood or metal. The practical experience of forum members suggests that building metal constructions It is economically feasible only if you have “free” hardware. If you buy metal, fasteners, and do welding work, then such structures will ultimately cost more than factory ones and, especially, wooden ones.
While scaffolding can be carefully dismantled and the boards put into use, metal ones are doomed to gather dust in the utility room. Experienced builders They will say that high-quality scaffolding or a tower can then be rented out. But few private developers will want to bother with this. Therefore, the majority of forum users still prefer wooden structures.
HukTo member FORUMHOUSE
Metal scaffolding is better than wooden scaffolding, but the main trump card of wooden scaffolding is the relative cheapness, simplicity and speed of their production.
Advice from FORUMHOUSE: it is better to build your own wooden scaffolding from high-quality lumber. A quality board, unlike waste material, which will have to be thrown away after use, can be used in a new construction site.
DIY scaffolding for your home.
How to make scaffolding from boards
Before you start DIY wooden structures, it is necessary to decide on the scope of work. If in one case they can be the simplest - attached (for lining gables, siding country house etc.), then in other cases (finishing the facade with stone or brick, plastering work etc.) a more serious design is needed.
The dimensions of the base unit are as follows:
- Length – 5 m;
- Width – 1 m;
- Height (thickness) – 3.5 m.
The construction took 60 linear meters boards 150x50mm.
Buryat member FORUMHOUSE
They are called "scaffolding - envelope".
DIY construction scaffolding
The design itself looks like the letter G attached to. A 150x50 board is taken as the basis, another board is nailed to it perpendicularly - a support platform, on which the flooring is then laid.
One of essential elements Such structures are jibs - boards 25-50x100, with which two main boards knocked together at right angles are sheathed on the sides.
Usually 3 jibs are nailed on each side. Thus, the rigidity of the entire structure is achieved.
Such forests do not need a rigid connection with the house. The force load is carried by the support board, which at one end rests against the place where the boards are attached, and at the other - the pointed end - is stuck into the ground.
If the house is wooden or frame, then scaffolding can be nailed to the wall. If the facade cannot be damaged, then they are leaned against the wall, and the main load is carried by the supporting board.
When choosing the size of “envelopes”, you should adhere to the following requirements. If the site is too narrow, it will be difficult and dangerous to walk on it. If the platform is too wide, then the “envelope” may come off the wall. Optimal size platforms – 400-500 mm.
The main advantage of attached structures is that their manufacture does not require a lot of lumber.
Buryat member FORUMHOUSE
The supporting board and, accordingly, the height of the scaffolding can be increased. If the length of the board increases (more than 6 m), then for the rigidity of the structure, another board rests in the corner between the wall and the blind area, the other end of which is attached to the middle of the first - the main board.
Despite the fact that the design is widely known, at the first glance at such structures you doubt their reliability - it’s scary to look at! Let's turn to the practical experience of users of our site.
Zark member FORUMHOUSE
We call such forests “Armenian”. When I first saw such a design, I was surprised at how it even held up. I tried it, climbed onto the flooring - quite reliably. I myself have used attached scaffolding more than once, both on wood and on brick house. They are convenient, quickly assembled and disassembled. They don't take up much space.
Armenian scaffolding.
Drosha member FORUMHOUSE
This type of forest is quite safe. There is no need to attach the boards to the walls, but the flooring must be screwed with self-tapping screws to the supports (do not knock it down with nails, so that you can quickly disassemble it later).
How to Build Scaffolding for Heavy Duty Work
But such “Armenian” scaffolding is not suitable for all work - mainly for light work. They are good as scaffolding for painting a house, etc. For “heavy” work that requires working with tools, solutions, finishing the facade with stone, etc. a more permanent structure must be used.
The assembly of the structure is done as follows:
- Take a six-meter board (150/200x50) and place it vertically against the wall;
- A second board is placed parallel to it;
- They are secured to each other by horizontal bars. Next, according to the same scheme, the second support is mounted and the flooring is laid;
- For greater rigidity, the racks are supported by additional brace boards that rest against the ground;
- As necessary, the scaffolding is increased in height by attaching additional vertical boards.
Standard dimensions of one span of such scaffolding:
- The step between the racks is 2-2.5 m;
- The width of the flooring for work is 1 m.
DIY wooden scaffolding.
diews FORUMHOUSE member
We made forests like this last summer. They were not attached to the wall. They placed only one wall at a time and then moved it. The main thing is to make braces and stops, and the structure will stand like a glove.
How to make scaffolding better: gpush against the screws
There is always a lot of controversy about how to put together scaffolding,
how to fasten the boards to each other. The opinions of forum members are divided: some believe that it can be assembled with self-tapping screws, others are categorically against it - only with nails.
The main argument of opponents of self-tapping screws is their fragility. The self-tapping screw does not work well under shock loads and shear loads. The result is that the cap flies off, the structure loses strength, even to the point of self-destruction.
How to build scaffolding for cladding a house.
Igor Kokhanov member of FORUMHOUSE
I recommend fastening everything with 120 mm nails with the obligatory bend of the tip on the crossbars and on the jibs. And no self-tapping screws! I'll tell you such a case. Builders I knew were doing the roof. They fastened the boards with self-tapping screws. The result is that the structures separated, all four of them flew from a height of five meters. The result is one in the hospital with broken kidneys. The second was a severe bruise to the leg. But they got off easily; if the altitude had been greater, everything could have ended much worse.
That's why this happened. The nail is made of relatively soft metal. Under load it bends and does not break. The self-tapping screw is made of hardened metal and with alternating signs and shock loads, it will first bend a little and then break. Moreover, the so-called “black” self-tapping screws, due to hardening, are much more brittle than anodized yellow ones.
For collapsible wooden structures, bolts with a hexagonal head (under a washer) with a diameter of 8 mm and special metal fasteners are well suited.
The main argument of opponents of nails is that it will no longer be possible to carefully disassemble the scaffolding that has been nailed together, and part of the good board will have to be thrown away or used for rough work. And the structural elements will be kept from shifting by the large friction force that occurs between the boards if you use self-tapping screws 120 - 150 mm long. Therefore, you need to make a compromise - use self-tapping screws to assemble scaffolding “on the ground”. In this case, if an error occurs at the first stage of scaffolding collection, they can be quickly disassembled and rebuilt. And only then additionally nail everything together properly.
When building, repairing and maintaining a private house or cottage, some work has to be done at height. By using ladder Not everything can be done, and it’s not very convenient. It is much more convenient to use scaffolding.
Homemade wooden scaffolding
Metal scaffolding is, of course, reliable and durable, but most often it is made of wood. Anyone can work with wood, and all you need is a saw, nails/screws, a hammer/screwdriver/screwdriver. The set of tools is simple, which any owner can find, and if there is something missing, it doesn’t require a lot of money to purchase. Metal is more difficult in this regard. It requires at least some handling skills, availability welding machine and at least some idea of how. That is why do-it-yourself scaffolding is in most cases made from wood.
What to make from
Everyone understands that scaffolding or scaffolding is needed for a short period of time. But construction wood must be used to make them. good quality, with a minimum of knots. Some craftsmen advise making forests exclusively from spruce. Unlike pine, its knots are located singly and have almost no effect on the strength of the board.
But rarely anyone has spruce boards in stock, but pine is usually enough. From pine boards You can also make scaffolding, but each of them needs to be checked (in any case, those that go to the racks and flooring). To do this, stack two columns (three or four bricks one on top of the other, a couple of building blocks, two boulders, etc.). When checking three-meter boards, the distance between them is 2.2-2.5 m. Place the board on the posts, stand in the middle and jump on it a couple of times. If there are weak spots, the board will break or crack. Withstood - you can use it.
The thickness of the board must be discussed specifically, referring to the design of the scaffolding, the distances between the posts and the planned load. The only thing that can be said is that 40 mm or 50 mm thick boards are most often used for racks and flooring, and 25-30 mm for jibs. Such a board can be used in detailed construction work Oh, if you manage to avoid damaging it when dismantling the scaffolding.
Nails or screws
The debate about whether nails or self-tapping screws are better always goes on, but in this case it is aggravated by the fact that the work is carried out at heights, and increased reliability is required from the structure. From this point of view better than nails. They are made of soft metal and when loaded, they bend but do not break. Self-tapping screws are made of hardened steel, but it is brittle and breaks when exposed to shock or variable loads. This is critical for scaffolding - there have been cases when they fell apart. But this we're talking about about “black” screws. If they are also anodized - yellowish-green - they are not so fragile and can easily withstand all the loads. If you are seriously concerned about the reliability of the scaffolding, it is better to use nails. They are not liked due to the fact that it is impossible to disassemble the joint quickly and without losses - most often the wood is damaged.
At self-production scaffolding, you can do this: initially assemble everything using anodized screws. If the design turns out to be convenient and correct, play it safe by driving two or three nails into each connection. In order not to damage the wood during disassembly, scraps of thin boards can be placed under the nails; for a long span, whole boards, but of small thickness, can be used. When disassembling, it can be split, and protruding nails can be easily removed.
Designs and their features
For different types works use scaffolding and scaffolding of different designs. Too big for working with light materials load bearing capacity need not. In such cases, attached scaffolds or envelope scaffolds are made.
For work on gables or exterior decoration short one-story house They use construction trestles, on the crossbars of which the flooring is laid.
For laying brick walls, any building blocks, for finishing the facade with brick or stone - all these works require full-fledged scaffolding.
As a rule, all these structures are not attached to the walls of the building, but are fixed with stops that support the racks. Next we will talk in more detail about each of these structures.
Attached scaffolding
They are called so because they are usually not attached to the wall, but simply leaned against it. They are held in place by a stop. The more this type of scaffolding is loaded, the stronger it stands. There are two designs, both of them are made in the form of the letter “L”, only turned in different directions.
The picture on the right shows a simple and reliable design scaffolding Their only drawback is that they are not height adjustable. They are convenient if you need, for example, to hem roof overhangs, install or clean gutters, or all those jobs that have a slight variation in height. Some even adapt such scaffolding for building a house from logs (timber). It is convenient to roll or lift logs along the edges of the stops.
They are reliable - they can withstand an 11-meter log and three people Construction scaffolding - a simple design
In the picture on the left there is an envelope scaffolding or Armenian scaffolding. The design is simple and reliable, although it does not seem so. But it has already been tested on many thousands of houses under construction. Attractive because it requires a minimum building materials, you can assemble/disassemble/move them in a matter of minutes. The main thing is to make triangles, and setting them to a given height takes a little time: raise the triangle, support it with an inclined beam, which is fixed in the ground.
To make triangles, a board 40-50 mm thick and 100-150 mm wide is used. The vertical part can be long - it is convenient to use it to lift the scaffolding to a given height. Top bar It is made 80-100 cm long, flooring boards are laid on it. By the way, they are also 50 mm thick, and the wider the better, ideally also 150 mm.
When making corners, the joint must be positioned so that horizontal board was on top. To increase the reliability of this unit, you can use metal linings in the form of a corner. But if the corner is fixed using three jibs nailed on both sides, this is not necessary.
Such triangles are installed approximately every meter. If the façade allows, they are nailed down; if not, they are made use of only by gravity. The main load in this design falls on the thrust board - the one that is placed at an angle and one end rests on the ground, the other on the top of the triangle. These stops are made from timber, boards with a thickness of at least 50 mm, pipes of solid diameter (at least 76 mm) or cross-section (for a profiled pipe at least 50*40 mm). When installing the stop, it is placed exactly in the corner, driven into the ground, and additionally secured by driving in wedges.
To eliminate the possibility of lateral shift, the installed stops are fixed with several jibs connecting them into a rigid structure. For these jibs you can use unedged board, if there is one, but of sufficient thickness and width.
If there is a need to grow the thrust boards (if they are needed longer than 6 meters), an additional emphasis is made for such a board. It rests approximately in the middle of the main one, relieving part of the load.
Now a little about the flooring of these attached scaffolds. It is made from wide board 40-50 mm thick. In this case, it is advisable to fix them to the triangles, at least with self-tapping screws. This design does not provide for the presence of railings, and the slightest movement under your feet will cause increased discomfort. Therefore, fixation is extremely desirable.
Wooden scaffolding: drawings and photos
The options described above are good if the work does not involve heavy materials. Also, it is not always possible to support scaffolding on a wall - any ventilated facade or multi-layer wall - and you will not be able to install such a structure. In this case, full-fledged forests are made. Their design is also not complicated, but a decent amount of lumber is required.
For their construction, boards of considerable thickness are also used - 40-50 mm. First, the racks are assembled. These are two vertical beams or thick boards fastened with crossbars. The dimensions of the crossbars are 80-100 cm. They should be made based on the fact that the minimum more or less comfortable width of the flooring is 60 cm. But you will feel much more confident if you have at least 80 cm. To give the structure greater lateral stability the racks can be made tapering at the top.
The stands are placed at a distance of 1.5-2.5 meters. The span depends on the thickness of the boards that you will use for the flooring - it is necessary that they do not sag. The racks installed at the required distance are fastened together with slopes. They will not allow the structure to fold sideways. The more crossbars and jibs, the more reliable the scaffolding becomes.
To prevent scaffolding from falling, they are supported by boards/beams, one end of which is nailed to the posts (with nails), the other is buried in the ground
The cross beams prevent the scaffold from folding sideways, but there is still the possibility that the unsecured scaffold could fall forward. To prevent this from happening, the beams are supported with jibs. If the height of the scaffolding is 2.5-3 meters, this need not be done, but if you need to carry out work at the level of the second or third floor, such fixation is necessary.
If work will be carried out at high altitudes, it is advisable to install railings. They can be made from not very thick boards, but there should be no knots or cracks. Handrails will help those who are afraid of heights to feel more confident at the top.
Standard molding is enough to reach the floor level of the second floor - 6 meters. You can assemble small scaffolding from old, but strong boards. Sometimes poles or pipes are used for braces and stops - whatever is available on the farm
Construction trestles
There is also a way to make lightweight mobile scaffolding - build identical construction trestles, filling the crossbars with a certain pitch, which will be both a ladder and a support for the flooring boards.
This type of scaffolding is good, for example, when covering a house with siding. The sheathing goes from bottom to top, the height has to be changed all the time, there is no way to lean or fix to the wall. Therefore, this option is the best for such a case.
Construction trestles - options
Sometimes one rack on one side is made vertical, without tilting. This allows you to install them closer to the wall, the flooring is then located closer to the wall. In some cases this is convenient - for example, when caulking, painting, preventative treatment.
Types and components of metal scaffolding
When building a house from stone or building blocks, metal scaffolding is more suitable. They are able to withstand any load. They are less popular only for the reason that in many regions wood is still the most cheap look building materials. The second point, which is often decisive, is that after dismantling the wooden scaffolding, the boards can be put to work - used in further construction. And metal parts should gather dust in.
But metal scaffolding also has its advantages. When disassembled, they do not take up much space. Owners wooden houses you still have to use them periodically: the log house requires maintenance, so the scaffolding is needed every two or three years. In this case, it is more practical to use metal rather than wooden ones. They are easier to assemble, more durable and stronger.
All metal scaffolding has the same shape - vertical racks, connected by crossbars and slopes. The only difference is the way the parts are attached to each other:
- Pin scaffolding. They are called so because the crossbars and posts are connected using pins. Pieces of pipe or perforated disks are welded on the racks, and bent pins are on the crossbars. This system is very easy to assemble and can withstand heavy loads. Pin scaffolding for buildings of simple shape is very easy to implement; going around bay windows and projections is much more difficult.
- Clamps. For racks and crossbars, round pipes are used, which are fastened together using clamps special design. The system turns out to be very mobile and movable; you can easily get around any curved facades. The downside is the limited load capacity and height (according to GOST - no higher than 40 meters).
Clamp scaffolding - quick installation/dismantling
- Frame. From round or rectangular pipe frames of the same size are welded. They are connected to each other by transverse pipes and jibs. They have a modular structure and can be easily expanded both in height and in length. They have a certain step in length - 1.5/2/2.5/3 meters, in height one section is usually 2 meters, standard depth - 1 m. Some frames have wheels - for easier movement around flat surface. Connection of flag-type elements - pins with a slot into which the flag is inserted are welded on the frame. Holes are made in the crossbars and slopes. The elements are put on a pin and secured with a flag. Sections are built up using connecting pipes of smaller diameter, welded to the frame posts on one side. With this method, it is important to have perfectly selected pipe sizes so that there is no backlash.
Frame scaffolding - the principle of fastening crossbars and jibs
- Wedges. Although generally similar, the designs differ in the form of the connection. On the jays with a certain pitch (usually 2 meters), perforated discs are welded. Special cleft-mouth type locks are welded onto the jumpers at both ends. The locks are fixed to the disk using a specially shaped wedge. Such scaffolding connects and disconnects quickly, has high mobility, and can be used on facades of complex shapes.
When making metal scaffolding yourself, pin scaffolding is most often used. They are the easiest to implement, however, they are only good on rectangular facades; to bypass more complex shapes, you have to weld additional tubes.
In construction or repair work Projects carried out at height cannot be done without scaffolding. Construction equipment can be rented for the duration of the job, but this is not cheap, especially for long-term renovation projects. Having calculated the required height and configuration, scaffolding can be constructed independently.
The purpose of scaffolding is the ability to deliver building materials to heights and the safety of construction workers staying there during work. To do this, the structure must be stable, durable, with a mechanism for lifting, lowering and protection. Wood or metal is best suited for scaffolding.
Scaffolding consist of several elements:
- support frames are the frame, it bears the main load;
- floorings (stages) on which builders and working material are located;
- handrails to protect against accidents;
- stops - for a stable position;
- spacers (diagonal and horizontal) - for the strength of the racks and uniform weight distribution;
- stairs for ascent and descent.
Scaffolding is one of the most popular structures, without which almost no construction can be completed. If you are building a house, cottage or country cottage, then do not rush to give money for ready product. In our material we will share the best instructions How to make a design yourself.
1. What is scaffolding: a brief educational program
In the very in a general sense scaffolding is frame device, created from components and sections, the parameters of which are standardized to international standards. They are designed to protect the activities of workers who are working on the construction or restoration of multi-story buildings.
1.1. Types of scaffolding
Scaffolding is made from metal and wood. Now let's figure out what modifications there are, depending on the type of connection of their components:
Wedges. They are indispensable when using massive materials and assemblies. This means you can be sure that they will not let you down even with the most extensive workload. Another significant advantage is the speed of dismantling.
Pin. They are especially loved by foremen for the speed of assembly/disassembly of the product. Based on the name, it is the pin that is the connection point.
Frame. They are relevant for finishing manipulations with plaster and paint. They differ from the others by a special frame, which is rigidly fixed with nodal fastenings to diagonal and horizontal posts. The cost won't hurt your wallet.
Clamps. They themselves are quite complex in execution: they are applicable to objects of increased importance. Produced in accordance with the individual parameters of the room. Literally every nuance is taken into account here.
Let's take a closer look at the installation methods for each type of scaffolding.
1.2. Device
The products have details such as:
- flooring lintels;
- spacers;
- enclosing element;
- stops;
- plank flooring;
- racks;
- stepladder (ladder).
2. Rules for installing wooden and metal scaffolding with your own hands
The first step begins with a well-designed drawing. Listen to the advice of professional builders: the width of the flooring should not exceed one meter; product height - six meters; the gap between the racks is in the range from two to two and a half meters. The standard level of lintels for the initial flooring is about half a meter from the ground.
For the next one, it is mounted at a height of 180 to 200 cm. And finally, for the third, it is installed at a height of 360-400 cm.
2.1. Wooden scaffolding: how to make it yourself
Do-it-yourself scaffolding from boards involves the following materials:
- boards 4-5 cm thick (for flooring and lintels);
- boards (width - from 10 cm, thickness - 5 cm) or timber with a special section (10*10 cm). They will be needed for processing thrust braces and racks;
- edged board “30” is useful when forming railings, couplers and spacers;
- screws and nails. The former are relevant when disassembling and assembling tall scaffolding, and the latter - at a break and for compact products.
Step No 1. Four posts are cut to the height of the scaffolding. In an area cleared of debris and foreign objects, they are laid out parallel to each other.
Step No 2. Then we securely fix with horizontal jumpers those of the racks on which you plan to place the flooring.
Step No 3. As a result, we have two “ladder” frames. Next, we mount them in a vertical position relative to each other. We strengthen with ties (horizontal and diagonal).
Step No 4. We prepare a strong flooring from bars. Then we securely mount it on the horizontal jumpers.
Step No 5. Now comes the turn of direct manipulation of the forests. They are connected at two side bevels.
Step No. 6. And only after that the railings and stairs are nailed. Ready!
2.2. Products made from profile pipes: detailed instructions
According to its principle this type forests are collected in a similar way. However, consider some nuances. They consist in the use of adapters, with the help of which an increase in product levels is achieved.
However, let's figure out what you need to buy to create one section:
- Bolts with nuts and washers (ten pieces). They are very easy to fasten diagonal ties and then fix the base of the scaffold to the posts.
- Profile pipe. You need to take about eight pieces of them. Material parameters: 25×25 mm or 35×35 mm. Provide an additional copy for installing railings. You will need one piece (up to two meters).
- For the thrust bearings, buy four plates. Their material: metal. Thickness: two to three millimeters. Other parameters: 10×10 cm.
- For racks and lintels, take eight segments: equally 1 and 1.5 meters, respectively.
- Diagonal ties must be formed from four segments ( optimal length- about two meters) round pipe. It is best if its value does not exceed two centimeters.
Now let's get to work
- The first thing to start assembling scaffolding with your own hands from a profile pipe is: connecting the structure post to OSB sheet, which is the assembly shield. Clamps are ideal for this manipulation.
- Next, we securely attach the jumpers (horizontal) to the racks, and only then fix the adapters (from parts of pipes) into the upper ends of the racks (the optimal indentation is five centimeters). We use a welding machine.
- After finished device(tandem jumpers with uprights) are preliminarily detached from the assembly shield for the following manipulation: after changing the orientation (rotating by 90 degrees), it is returned to the structure: clamps are also useful for connecting to the shield.
- Do not forget about such a necessary moment during installation as correct processing thin-walled pipes(for diagonal stretches). For our purposes, we beat off their ends and middle with a hammer. Using a drill, we obtain spans for the bolts.
- Very carefully (in the center) screw the bolts into a pair of diagonal ties. Pre-measure the areas where the rack fixation points will be located.
- We join the racks with ties with nuts and bolts.
- Now let's deal with the railings and posts separately. We make a few holes on them with a drill.
- The thrust bearings (plates) are fastened to pieces of pipes. For this we use a welding machine.
- On final stage the structure is installed in a strictly vertical position. But it is necessary to provide thrust bearings. They are attached to the lower ends of the pipes.
- From the usual edged boards We make high-quality and solid flooring, which is placed above the side lintels. Experts recommend using lumber called “magpie” for these purposes.
Pay attention to the secrets that everyone who decides to assemble scaffolding themselves should know:
- If you are faced with the task of increasing the length of the scaffolding, then you need to obey the following logic: in the existing sections (in the upper and lower parts) make holes. The bolts that are located there will be the connecting link with the subsequent racks.
- When you attach the ties, make sure to alternate: on scaffolding they are mounted on different sidewalls.
- Not always, but when major renovation or large-scale construction, you may be faced with the need to add sections of the third tier (4.5 m). And then you cannot do without a profile pipe for a persistent mowing, which serves for the stability of the scaffolding. What you need to do: Create holes in the posts.
- Metal corners(3*3 cm) will prevent the flooring from shifting. They are mounted in the area where the contact contacts the jumpers.
3. Universal dismantling scheme
This procedure has its own characteristics: the technology involves dismantling the structure from top to bottom in the reverse order of installation. However, do not forget that before the main manipulations you must:
- inspect the scaffolding flooring for the absence of any foreign objects: garbage, equipment, etc.;
- fence the site to avoid unforeseen situations;
- All exits to the balcony and window openings are tightly closed;
- make sure that the tools are in working order;
- a safety belt is required when the structure long time has not been used and there is a possibility that defects or traces of rust may form.
All types of products are dismantled tier by tier, section by section. Special attention Pay attention to the fastenings to the wall, which are disassembled according to a similar principle: remove the fastening hooks, which are located above the tier subjected to manipulation. When disassembling almost all scaffolding (except for the clamp variety), craftsmen advise removing the components of the tier and placing them on the ground.
So let's get started.
- First, take into account the strict sequence: fences - posts and fastening devices above the flooring of each tier - diagonal connections within the boundaries of this tier.
- Secondly, we move on to the flooring panel. It is not completely removed: one of the fragments will be useful for laying the tier under the one in question.
- Thirdly, at stairwells remove the railings, then the posts. And then - the boards of the platforms and stairs. And finally, it’s the turn of the tier frame: the crossbars (transverse and longitudinal) are removed.
- The wall mounts are disassembled. And the holes from them are rubbed with a special compound.
Throughout the entire process, you cannot do without ropes and blocks - reliable lifting devices. The elements obtained after dismantling must be inspected and packaged in order to store or transport scaffolding.
4. Video: making scaffolding yourself
Having mastered the technology of scaffolding installation, it’s time to put the acquired knowledge into practice. And if you are seriously wondering where, then the Stroika ru portal will come to the rescue here too. In our catalog you can always find and order high-quality products from reliable suppliers.
Photos and videos: www.google.ru.