Foundation of the city Ulan Ude, like many Siberian cities, was founded in the 17th century by Russian explorers. 1666 is considered to be the time when the city was founded. In 1666, a Russian Cossack detachment set up a small wooden house at the mouth of the Uda River, on a high rocky bank (near the current bridge across the Uda River), called the "Uda Cossack winter quarters". The Udinsk winter hut was founded as a center for collecting yasak (tax, tribute) from the local population, a fortified military point for defense against hostile attacks, and as one of the bases for the advance of the Russians to the East.
1678 Udinsky prison Taking into account the convenient geographical and strategic location of the Udinsky winter hut, in 1678 the Moscow government decided to build a prison here. The winter hut and part of the buildings were surrounded by a high palisade. In 1689 the construction was completed. The prison was built in the shape of a quadrangle, with watchtowers at the corners. It lasted until the 80s of the XVIII century.
1698 Udinsky city In 1698 the Udinsky prison was renamed into a city. The idea of transforming the prison into a city belonged to the tsarist ambassador Golovin, who traveled here after signing the so-called Nerchinsk Treaty with a Chinese representative, which, as is known, established the border and good neighborly relations between Russia and China. By order of the ambassador, the prison was fortified: surrounded by wooden walls with loopholes, its garrison was reinforced by 200 archers and Cossacks from the ambassador's retinue.
1730 City of Verkhneudinsk The city was divided into two parts - urban and suburban. The city part consisted of a wooden fortress with towers, a powder cellar, an artillery arsenal and a guardhouse, and in the suburban part there were food and factory shops, offices, barracks, wine barns, trading shops, private houses and churches. The population of the city was engaged in trade, arable farming, crafts, transportation of goods, hunting, and fishing. The valleys of the Uda and Selenga rivers have long been inhabited by Buryat tribes engaged in cattle breeding and hunting. Communicating with Russian Cossacks and settlers, the Buryats learned from them farming. More than once, Russian Cossacks and Buryats jointly repelled the raids of foreign invaders. All this was the historical basis on which the friendship of the Russian and Buryat people subsequently developed and grew.
Coat of arms of the city of Verkhneudinsk The coat of arms of Verkhneudinsk was presented to the city on October 26, 1790 by decision of the royal senate "as a sign that noble auctions are being held in this city." On the golden field of the shield are depicted: in the upper part of the babr (tiger) with a sable in his teeth, the coat of arms of Irkutsk (then it was a provincial center), and the lower rod of the god Mercury (the god of trade) and a cornucopia, which emphasized the commercial importance of the city.
HODIGITRIEVSKIY CATHEDRAL In 1741 St. Odigitrievsky Cathedral was founded. Construction dragged on for more than 40 years, and only in 1785 did the consecration of the temple of the icon of the Mother of God Hodegetria on the second floor of the building take place. Odigitrievsky Cathedral is the first stone building in Verkhneudinsk.
In 1890, the great Russian writer A.P. Chekhov passed through Verkhneudinsk to Sakhalin. In one of his letters to his sister, he wrote: “I’ll tell you about how I rode along the Selenga coast and then through Transbaikalia when we meet, but now I’ll only say that the Selenga is sheer beauty, and in Transbaikalia I found everything I wanted: and The Caucasus, and the Zvenigorod district, and the Don. During the day you gallop through the Caucasus, at night along the Don steppe, and in the morning you wake up from your slumber, looking, already the Poltava province, and so on for a thousand miles. Verkhneudinsk is a nice little town ... "
Triumphal Arch In 1891, the son of Emperor Alexander II, the future heir to the Russian Throne, Tsarevich Nikolai Alexandrovich, arrived in Verkhneudinsk. In his honor, the Triumphal Arch, called the Royal Gates, was erected in the city. In 1936, the arch was demolished, but by the day of the city on June 12, 2006, the Triumphal Arch in the Republic of Buryatia was restored. A copy of the Royal Gates now adorns Lenin Street (formerly it was called Bolshaya, then Bolshaya Nikolaevskaya).
The first train in Verkhneudinsk made the city a crossroads. The event that took place on August 27, 1899 (August 15, old style) radically changed the history of merchant Verkhneudinsk and predetermined its future fate. On that ordinary summer day, the first train arrived from Mysovaya to Verkhneudinsk. It can be safely assumed that even the first conquerors of Siberia dreamed of decent communication routes - Yermak Timofeev, who defeated Khan Kuchum, Ivan Moskvitin, who reached the Sea of Okhotsk, and Ivan Kurbatov, who discovered Lake Baikal. The railway (and at that time any other) road would have relieved researchers of the difficulties of movement. It is now that the train will rush off to any station, and once traveling to Siberia required a lot of trouble and remarkable endurance. For two whole years, members of the Second Kamchatka Expedition, scientists of the St. Petersburg Academy of Sciences, traveled to Verkhneudinsk. They left for a distant Siberian campaign from the northern capital on August 8, 1733, and arrived in Verkhneudinsk only on August 17, 1735. However, if a steel highway had been laid then, there would have been fewer scientific discoveries than on foot. And yet it is difficult to imagine how travelers of the past overcame thousand-mile distances.
1934 Ulan Ude On July 27, 1934, by a decree of the Presidium of the USSR, Verkhneudinsk was renamed into the city of Ulan Ude (from Buryat "Red Uda") - the capital of Buryatia.
Opera and Ballet Theater The building of the Buryat State Academic Opera and Ballet Theater is one of the most beautiful buildings in Ulan Ude, an architectural monument, cultural and national heritage of Buryatia. The construction of the theater began in 1939, but was interrupted due to the Great Patriotic War and resumed in 1945 by captured Japanese. The grand opening of the theater took place in 1952. “The theater has been built, now the city needs to be completed to it,” said the inhabitants of Ulan Ude in those days. Since then, more than 300 performances in the Buryat and Russian languages have been staged on the stage of the theater.
Merchants' buildings in the city The Kyakhta trade had a great influence on the development of Verkhneudinsk. In 1768, the first Verkhneudinskaya Fair opened. For many years it was the price regulator for Transbaikalia and the Irkutsk Territory. In Verkhneudinsk, two large winter and summer fairs were held annually. Merchants from Irkutsk, Tomsk, Irbit and Tyumen came to the fairs. The Great Gostiny Dvor (1804-1856) and the Small Trading Rows (1804-1856) became the center of trade and the city. The shopping arcade was built by a wealthy merchant, an honorary citizen of Verkhneudinsk Kurbatov.
The house of the tradesman D. M. Pakholkov (Lenin St., 13). Built in 1801 1804. Most of the buildings located along Lenin Street are mostly old houses of historical and architectural value, built in the 19th century by Verkhneudinsky merchants. The architecture of the building is interesting for the folk transformation of classicism motifs. This is one of the most significant first stone civil buildings of Verkhneudinsk, built at the very beginning of the 19th century. In 1809, this private house was purchased by the treasury to accommodate government offices and the treasury. Later, in connection with the location of the fire brigade in the yard, a two-tiered wooden fire tower with a signal mast appeared on the roof. During the fire of 1878, which destroyed most of the city, the building was also damaged, but was restored. The tower was removed from the roof of the house in the 1930s.
The house of the merchant Menshikov (Lenin St., 24) Innokenty Ilyich Menshikov, the owner of the estate, was a constable of the Verkhneudinsk village. The city government decided to allow the construction of stone one-story shops. On July 8, 1886, construction began on the corner of Bolshaya and Bazarnaya streets (now Lenin and Kirov streets). At the beginning of the 20th century, the cinema illusion "Don Othello" worked here, the owner of which was the Italian A. Bataki. In 1924 (there was no longer a cinema) a second wooden floor was built over the stone one. Currently, there is a store "All for Women"
House of merchant T. Borisova (Lenin St., 25). Built in the 1870s. In 1877, the 2nd floor was added. In 1909, Borisova's son opened the Illusion Electric Theater in the house. In 1918, The Golden Horn. Currently, the Erdem cinema is located here.
The house of the merchant Goldobin (Lenin St., 26). Ivan Flegontovich Goldobin was one of the richest merchants of Verkhneudinsk and the Trans-Baikal Territory, an honorary hereditary citizen of Verkhneudinsk. At the end of the XIX century. he had several factories, including in the Irkutsk province, owned a monopoly on the wine trade. He owned a distillery called "Nikolaevsky" in the Verkhneudinsky district, many of its residents found income at Goldobin enterprises. Success in trade and entrepreneurship allowed Goldobin to engage in charity and patronage, he donated a lot to the needs of the city, built and maintained a shelter for the homeless, poor, elderly, blind and crippled citizens of both sexes, a shelter for convict children. At the request of the city administration, the merchant I.F. Goldobin received almost all high-ranking persons passing through the city for an apartment in his house. In 1891, he hosted the heir to the throne, the future Emperor Nicholas II, who was passing through Verkhneudinsk from the Far East. It was a huge event for the city. After restoration, this house housed the Museum of the City of Ulan Ude, opened in August 2001.
The house of the merchant M. Kurbatov (Lenin St., 27). Built at the beginning of 1820. At one time it was considered the richest house in Verkhneudinsk. The house of the city estate stood out noticeably thanks to the Corinthian columned portico. It was built in the first third of the 19th century. and for a long time remained the best example of classicism in the city. However, later the building was supplemented with various extensions for commercial purposes. A. M. Kurbatov was a co-owner of a glass and soap factory, from 1816 to 1819 he was "incessantly" elected mayor. In 1875, the merchant's widow sold this house to the richest Nerchinsk merchants and entrepreneurs M. D. and N. D. Butin, who owned distilleries and salt works, shipping companies on the Amur, Angara and Selenga. The last private owner of the house since 1905 was A.K. Kobylkin, the owner of a brewery and glass-making factories. In the 1950s the portico was dismantled, the 2nd floor was built on, as a result of which the house lost many architectural advantages. In this house in 1920-1923 housed the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of the Far Eastern Republic
House of the merchant Kapelman (Lenin St., 30). At the beginning of the first decade of the 20th century, the merchant Naftoly Leontievich Kapelman built a stone two-story house “with atlantes”. The two-storey building with elements of eclecticism, typical for the pre-revolutionary period and plastic facades unusual for Verkhneudinsk, was built in the shortest possible time from June 2 to October 5, 1907. The architecture of the main building is eclectic. The composition of the symmetrical facade is only frontal; The building attracts with its color combination (red brick walls and sculptures of "Atlanteans" with profiled stone details). It is accentuated in the center by a turret in the form of a faceted dome. The building has survived to this day with slight distortions and is on the list of valuable historical buildings. In the interior of the house, a well-made amin and an openwork artistic forging staircase railing have been preserved.
Manor E. A. Mordovskaya One-story wooden house. A unique monument of civil architecture, which has no analogues in the city of Ulan Ude. It stands out for its original architectural planning solution, rich decoration of facades and window frames, which interpret baroque style elements. The house was built at the end of the 19th century. Currently, restoration workshops are located here.
The founding place of Ulan Ude is located on the high right bank at the confluence of the Selenga and Uda rivers, where in 1666 a Cossack winter hut was organized, then rebuilt into a guarded wooden fortress. These events are evidenced by a memorial stone and an Orthodox cross.
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1. Introduction
The history of the emergence and development of the city of Ulan-Ude (the former city of Verkhneudinsk) is inextricably linked with the development of the territories of Transbaikalia and distant Transbaikalia by the Russian Empire, the process of joining Buryatia to the Russian state.
Over the course of three centuries, the city of Ulan-Ude turned from a hunting lodge into the capital of a national republic, consistently overcoming a long path of administrative transformations characteristic of many Siberian cities - a winter quarter, a prison, a city, the capital of the Far Eastern Republic, the capital of the Buryat-Mongolian Autonomous Republic and finally - the capital Republic of Buryatia.
Ulan-Ude is located in a picturesque place at the confluence of the Uda and Selenga rivers, on the border of the forest and steppe natural zones. On the northern and southern sides, the city is framed by mountains covered with coniferous forests, and to the west of it lies the vast Ivolginskaya Valley.
From the middle of the 18th century, the city became the administrative center of the county. It was then that the central historical core and suburbs of the city were formed with town-planning dominants of temples and public buildings, typologically heterogeneous and stylistically diverse valuable historical buildings. There are a number of archeological monuments on the territory of the city.
2. Foundation of the city
ulan ude verkhneudinsk manor building
In 1666, a detachment of service people under the command of the Pentecostal Gavrila Lovtsov, who equipped an expedition to return brotherly people to the citizenship of the Moscow Tsar, descended to the mouth of the Uda and cut down a small winter hut, which was created mainly for collecting yasak. The choice at the mouth of the Uda was not accidental. The taiga, approaching the banks of the rivers, provided handy building materials and fuel, and provided opportunities for hunting fur-bearing animals. And areas free from forests, low-lying floodplain lands could be used for arable farming, haymaking, and pastures. The winter hut was the simplest building of defensive construction in Siberia in the 17th century.
The exact date of its founding is unknown, but it can be tentatively determined by the time between two reports of the Cossack foreman Osip Vasiliev, dated September 30, 1665 and April 27, 1666. new prize-winning foreigners put a yasak winter hut at the mouth of the Uda river "; as well as on the supply of service people with weapons, grain and other supplies.
The Uda winter hut was built on the top of a rocky cape at the mouth of the Uda, and later the Uda prison was erected on this site. Zimovye, according to N.V. Kim, looked like a type of winter hut common in Siberia at that time, which in its simplest form was a chicken hut with a flat roof made of shingles, a low door in a log house and “portage” windows. The Uda winter hut is mentioned in the diary of Nikolai Spafariy, who traveled through these places in 1675. He wrote: “The Uda River flows from the ridge, the Cossacks hunt sable along it, and now there is a Cossack winter hut at the mouth of the Uda River.” The ambassador also drew attention to the need to build a prison here: “... and near the Uda River, you can set up a prison, and make courts, and you can find places for grain-growing.”
The date of the foundation of the Udinsky prison is also not exactly confirmed by archival documents. The first dating is derived according to the researcher V. Girchenko, who believes that it was in 1689 that the Russian ambassador F.A. Golovin turned the Udinsk winter hut into a prison. OK. Minert defines the date of foundation of the Udinsky prison as the period between 1677 and 1680. According to researcher N.V. Kim Udinsky prison was erected in 1678 by Ivan Porshennikov. Probably, this date should be considered as the starting date, because N.V. Kim cites archival data, where, according to the description of the “trading man” Isai Ostafiev Posalenov, in 1680 the prison already existed, as evidenced by the document “Muslim”, where he writes: “I am going from the Irkutsk prison past the Udinsky prison to Daury, to the Albazinsky prisons, and with me comes the word Rusian, its own imported goods ... ".
We find another description of the Udinsky prison in the diary of Zh.F. Gerbillion, who visited Transbaikalia in 1686-1688: “They spend three days on their way to reach Baikal from Selenginsk, where the river flows. It passes through a small prison called Udinsk, which is located there on the river, one day's journey from the lake. The Udinsky prison, as follows from the documents, was a significant link in the military defense system of Transbaikalia; was the center of distribution and storage of "cannon" and grain stocks, the first parties with exiled people went through the prison. The prison was armed with artillery, the garrison was led by a Pentecostal.
Due to its favorable geographical position on the trade routes, it was also of great economic importance. In addition, with the construction of the prison, the problem of creating a point of the main trade routes with China, which began at the Angara, passed through Baikal, along the Selenga and Uda rivers, was solved. Initially, the Udinsky jail was subordinate to the Selenginsky "order man". But already by 1684, the Udinsky prison practically became an independent administrative unit, which, in addition to defensive functions, also performed economic functions.
Initially, the Udinsky prison was built on the model of a five-tower prison, which was Selenginsky. In 1687, the first Udinsky prison was reconstructed: “On the 13th day of June ... it was ordered to create a city in Udinsk, and from it a hiding place to the river for water. Yes, triple large gouges for 300 by 16 sazhens were made around Udinsky and settlements, and service people were ordered to be in all readiness.
According to Minert L.K. The Udinsky prison had an average size, occupying a square of 40x40 sazhens. Its walls were cut with "taras", i.e. the construction consisted of two parallel walls, connected every 5-6 meters by transverse walls cut into them. The cells thus formed inside the walls were usually covered with earth or stones. The walls on top were completed by a parapet-oblam with hinged loopholes of the “upper battle”, covered with a gable roof. The fortress had five towers: four corner and one "travel" - in the middle of the western wall. Three corner towers were square in plan (3x3 fathoms); the fourth, northeast, is hexagonal with a side width of 3 sazhens. The towers also had "oblams" with hinged loopholes. All the towers were covered with tents topped with watchtowers. The placement of the hexagonal tower in the northeast corner was determined by the lack of sufficient natural obstacles here. Multifaceted towers were considered more suitable for the defense of dangerous areas. The "passing" tower was larger than the others, square in plan with a direct passage. Above the walls, the quadrangle turned into an octagon, crowned with a tent and a “guardian”. The defense of the gates was provided by the construction of a covered balcony above them on consoles with a through floor, i.e. by a technique common in wooden fortification construction of that time. In the second tier of the gate tower there was a chapel, and the gate, presumably, was “guarded” according to tradition by an icon case with the image of “the formidable forces of the governor Archangel Michael the Archangel”. There were several small buildings inside the walls: a sentry hut (4x4 sazhens), a powder magazine, a shed with artillery, and three barns. During the construction of the fortress, measures were also taken in case of a siege: they began to build a secret passage to the Uda River. But, apparently, due to the difficulty of arranging such a move in the rocky soil of the hill and the decrease in military danger, the work was not completed. For the defense of the fortress there were five metal cannons (in 1735).
The above description testifies that the Udinsky prison was built using constructive methods of fortification construction improved for that time. Despite the fact that during the construction of the Udinsky fortress, first of all, considerations of a functional and technical order were taken into account, the structure had undoubted architectural advantages. During the construction of the Siberian prisons, they were deliberately sought. The walls and towers were supposed not only to serve for protection, but also to inspire respect for the new authorities with their architecture, to adequately represent the Russian state in these harsh lands. Therefore, the imposing architecture of the fortresses, their towers, especially the entrance ones, was given great importance.
The diverse nature of the towers of the Udinsky prison testified that it was built according to the model and likeness of other Siberian prisons. When compared with the remains of the Yakutsk, Bratsk and other prisons that have come down to us, it can be assumed that decorative elements played a modest role in the architecture of Udinsky: they obviously boiled down to spear-shaped processing of the ends of the roofing board, profiling the ends of log outlets - brackets that supported the gate balcony, cutting lookout on the pillars.
Laconism of forms and expressiveness of proportions, constructive clarity of the building gave the architecture of the fortress a severe originality. Its placement on a high natural hill gave the building the character of an architectural monument. A powerful volume merged with the base with a strict silhouette of peaked towers harmonized with the alarming gloom of the harsh mountain taiga that surrounded it. This organic relationship between the nature of the architecture of the Udinsky fortress and natural conditions undoubtedly made a great emotional impression.
Following the construction of the prison, below it on the coastal terrace, a settlement - a settlement - gradually grows. The inhabitants were mainly from among the Cossacks, archers, hunters, merchants and industrial people, clerks, also peasants, as mentioned above; hence the occupation of trade, various crafts, arable farming, hunting, fishing and transportation of goods. At that time, the total number of private dwellings near the Udinsky prison consisted of only six winter quarters. It should be noted that since there was no place for residential buildings inside the prison, not simple huts were built outside it, but winter huts. Residential development near the Udinsky prison was not regulated by anyone and developed in accordance with traditions.
In connection with the strengthening in the XVIII century. good-neighborly relations and mutually beneficial ties with China and Mongolia, the Uda fortress has completely lost its military significance. By the end of the century, it served only as a prison and warehouse. The towers and walls of the fortress gradually collapsed “from rottenness” and were covered with sand. At the end of the 18th century, the Kremlin on the mountain was already in ruins.
According to published sources, the Uda fortress was transformed into a city in 1689, although according to some archival documents, 1690 is indicated as the year of the foundation of the city. Nevertheless, the so-called Udinsky city, for a long time was also called a prison, a fortress, because in a broad sense all fortified points were called prisons or a fortress.
Descriptions of the Udinsky prison-city of the end of the 17th century have been preserved: “On the left side of the Selenga river, from the east, there is the Uda river, above it the Udinsky city, “...” there is a chapel near the city. Landing over the mountain. In the suburb of the yards of tenant people and Cossack huts with a hundred. The city has four quadrangular towers, the fifth one is octagonal at the corner. In the city there is a guard hut, a green cellar, a barn above it. ”This description seems to be confirmed by I. Ides, who visited Udinsk in the early spring of 1683: “And on March 19, they came to the city of Udinsky, which lies on a high mountain, and fortified by a good Kremlin. More than half of the customs inhabitants live under the mountain of the Uda River, which from that place, two miles away to the east, fell into the Selenga River ... This city reveres the key of the Daurian province, and the Mungals often run in the summer through the meadows of that place near and drive away the horses, and take away customs inhabitants ... It was already impossible for us to escort further on a sleigh, I was forced to stay in the aforementioned city for several days of the remnant, and wait until the horses and camels, as many as I needed, were found, and after correcting that, I went on April 6 ..."
The process of formation of the settlement was especially intensive during the first two decades of the 18th century. In any case, the doctor John Bell, who accompanied the embassy L.V. Izmailov to China in 1719, he saw here already a "big city". I.G. Gmelin counted 116 residential buildings here in 1735 and 4 more beyond Uda. He very definitely connects the stagnation in the development of Udinsk that he observed at that time with the transfer of Russian-Chinese trade from Nerchinsky to the Selenginsky route. At the same time, I.G. Gmelin highly appreciates other economic possibilities of the city and its environs.
Initially, separate buildings and arrays of estates occupied the coastal strip near the mountain with a fortress. In the future, the building expanded in the northern and western directions. Rows of estates along the banks of the Uda closed into groups, forming the likeness of elongated quarters. Behind the coastal massifs of buildings, new ones were formed in the same order. Between them there were free passages - a semblance of streets. The main streets developed parallel to the river. Ude, in the direction from the prison to the Selenga. The transverse streets were arranged less logically, which was probably the result of random circumstances. In general, the layout of Udinsk in the 18th century was distinguished by a certain organization, although the street network was whimsical, the width of the streets was changeable, the buildings formed groups of estates with an area of various configuration and size. the banks of the Uda. These squares did not have clear and defined boundaries and "correct" development, however, the organizing elements of their architectural space were large volumes of churches, their hipped bell towers.
Judging by the width of the estates, there were streets with two-sided buildings. Separate groups of estates of various configurations and sizes are noted. Written materials and sketches give an idea of the residential buildings of that time (the first half of the 18th century). They indicate that the residential architecture of Eastern Siberia developed under the influence of the Russian North, settlers from the northern regions of Russia.
Most of the houses were built on basements with hipped steep roofs, portage and "red" windows. Government buildings were often combined with living quarters for service people. They were cut down on basements with passages, porches and awnings and lined with outbuildings. They were also surrounded by high deaf fences. With the development of the settlement - a large city, roads began to be outlined in the direction of the cities of Irkutsk, Nerchinsk, Chita, which later became the main ones when creating the first plans for Verkhneudinsk. Issued on July 25, 1763, by decree “On making special plans for all cities, their buildings and streets for each province especially”, Catherine II conceived the reconstruction of all provincial cities of the Russian Empire. Verkhneudinsk was no exception and was built according to general laws. In this regard, it was planned to streamline the spacious estate development that had developed by that time and bring it to a plan with a regular network of streets and alleys in accordance with the principles of classicism.
3. City of Verkhneudinsk
3.1 Planning structure
In the 30s of the XVIII century, the city was named Verkhneudinsk (despite the fact that it is located at the mouth of the Uda River, it got its name because of the city of the same name Nizhneudinsk in the Irkutsk region). In 1783, Verkhneudinsk received the status of a district (district) city - the center of the Verkhneudinsk district of the Trans-Baikal region. Ilinskaya, Kabanskaya, Selenginskaya, Kyakhtinskaya zemstvo huts were subordinated to its magistrate administration. Like all cities, Verkhneudinsk had its own coat of arms, approved by the highest authority on October 26, 1790.
The planning structure of the city of Verkhneudinsk with its quarters and streets was determined by the direction of the Selenga and Uda rivers, as well as the entrance from the Irkutsk tract, which later became the main street of the city, completed by the Odigitrievsky Cathedral. The design breakdown of quarters is shown on the city plan of 1798, which combined the existing free development and a promising future layout. The plan shows that the city churches of Spasskaya and Odigitrievskaya have found their place in the grid of quarters.
By 1810, Verkhneudinsk consisted of 19 streets: 12 - in the city, 6 - beyond the river. Milk yield and 1 - per r. Selengoy (Sloboda Poselye). The city had 4 longitudinal streets: Embankment along the river. Selenge (Bolshaya Embankment - Romanovskaya - named after A.P. Smolin); Traktovaya (Bolshaya - Bolshaya-Nikolaevskaya - named after V. I. Lenin); North-South (Losevskaya - Young Communard - named after I.V. Stalin - Communist); Spasskaya (named after M.I. Kalinin). 8 transverse: Embankment along the Ude (Embankment); Cathedral (Pochtamtskaya - Pervomaiskaya - named after L. L. Linkhovoin); Meshchanskaya (Mordovian - Buryat - named after Dorji Banzarov); Soldier (Sennaya - Gogolevskaya - named after Ya. M. Sverdlov); Troitskaya (Police - named after V. V. Kuibyshev); Living room (Market - Communal - named after S. M. Kirov); Yamskaya (Passing - Centrosoyuznaya - named after N. A. Kalandarishvili); Lugovaya (Dumskaya - Soviet). In the 1830s streets appeared: Zakaltusnaya (Profsoyuznaya) and Mokroslobodskaya (Mongolskaya - named after P. S. Baltakhinov).
For r. Milk yield by 1810, there were streets: Perevoznaya (Bolshaya - Central - named after I.V. Babushkin), Embankment (Mostovaya), Voznesenskaya (Production), Middle (Meshchanskaya - Civil), Stone (Podkamennaya), Kosogornaya (Stanichnaya - Krasnogvardeiskaya ).
In 1816, the Irkutsk provincial architect Y. Kruglikov drew up a new project for Verkhneudinsk. New quarters of the project took place in the upland part of the city and the Zaudinsky suburb. The general plan of Verkhneudinsk in 1816, made according to the principle of regular planning, in the future provided for the perimeter development of quarters, with the location of continuous buildings along the red line of the street. Such buildings with a continuous front of decoratively designed facades, in the middle of the XIX century. and especially towards the end of it, it began to form on Bolshaya Street and the main square of the city - Bazarnaya.
The reports compiled for the higher authorities in 1823 indicated that by that time the area of built-up lands in Verkhneudinsk was: under the city - 50 acres and 1000 square meters. fathoms; in the suburbs: behind Uda - 7 acres and 1800 sq. fathoms; beyond the Selenga - 12 acres and 1200 sq. fathoms; in addition, "under the city pasture" there were 4148 acres and 1000 square meters. fathoms. Ten years later, by 1833, the building area had increased to 136 acres and 200 square meters. sazhens, mainly due to the growth of the Zaudinsky suburb. This can be concluded from the number of streets indicated in the reports. In 1823 they were in the city: longitudinal - 4, transverse - 8, lanes - 2; for the river Milk yield: longitudinal - 4, lanes - 1; for the river Selenga: longitudinal - 1. By 1833, the number of streets increased only beyond the river. Milk yield: Up to 5 longitudinal and 4 transverse. And already by 1839, the entire territory of the floodplain terrace, enclosed by a cliff, was built up in the city. Yes, and the Zaudinsky suburb, i.e. its entire coastal part, by that time, was occupied by buildings. According to the plan of 1839, the total area of territories within the city limits was determined to be almost 12 thousand acres. And this figure remained until the end of the 19th century.
The architectural appearance of other streets of the city was determined mainly by long wooden fences, interrupted by the facades of houses and entrance gates with wickets. The location of buildings and structures on their territory, their number and type, as well as the division of the estate into functional zones - all this was decided by the homeowner at his own discretion, coordinating with the city government their appearance, the general plan of the building area and the distance between the buildings. A continuous requirement was the location of the main house on the red line.
In the new project proposed by the architect Sutormin (1846), it was supposed to develop not only the upland part of the city, but also the northern one, adjacent to the Irkutsk tract and the river. Selenge. The total building area was projected at 340 acres. But this part of the city limits did not attract developers, since the territory of the lower riverine terrace satisfied them. But nevertheless, from 1833 to 1867. while the building area remained unchanged, the number of city buildings increased from 451 to 617, despite the natural decrease in wooden buildings.
The growth of the city led to an increase in building density. The city is characterized by the residence of a relatively large number of peasants, which left a certain imprint on city life. Between 1833 and 1867, the number of residential buildings in the city increased from 451 to 617. For many citizens, agriculture was the means of subsistence. The inhabitants also grew vegetables, kept livestock and poultry. For example, according to the statistics of 1878, the inhabitants of Verkhneudinsk with a total population of 4,244 people had: 1,415 horses, 1,015 cattle, 750 sheep, 42 pigs, and 98 goats.
Land plots were leased by the city to residents for various periods: for 10, 12, 20 years, for 40 years with the right to extend for another 20 years, for 99 years, as well as for a period that "the city council finds convenient for itself." The tenant had to conclude a contract with the council within two weeks. According to the paragraphs of the conditions, persons who leased plots of land at auction could build residential buildings and other structures on them, adhering to the rules of the construction charter and the current mandatory resolutions of the city duma, issued on September 12, 1879 and published in the Zabaikalskiye Oblastnye Vedomosti for that same year. Throughout the time, the tenant had to keep the site in constant "cleanliness and serviceability", and at the end of the term, hand it over in the same form in which it was accepted. All buildings erected on the territory of the estate after the end of the lease period were received in favor of the tenants. The owner of the site could apply to the city council with a petition for an early redemption of the property of the taken plot of urban land. For the leased plots and the buildings built on them, the tenant was obliged to pay all the taxes required by law - state and city. The rent was paid annually on two dates - January 15 and July 15. For failure to pay the rent on time, the city government had the right to sell the content of the city land at auction to other persons. In case of delay, the tenant was obliged to pay the council a penalty in the amount of the annual rent, and the place of land was placed at the disposal of the council.
Plots of urban land were also sold for perpetual and hereditary possession; for this, in the presence of the city government, auctions were scheduled on certain days. One of the paragraphs of the conditions for sale recalled that "persons who do not belong to the number of residents of the city of Verkhneudinsk were required to present to the city government their right to reside in it before the start of the auction."
In 1876, the poll tax was replaced by a tax on real estate of all owners. To collect the estimated fee in favor of the city, the fee was set at 1% of the value of the property. For non-payment of the tax, the police department described the movable property of the homeowner, and on the basis of the article of the statute on the industrial tax, the property described from “arrears was sold by auction”. The proceeds from the auction went to the city. The execution of this procedure was entrusted to the police overseer. By the day of the auction, the things described were delivered to a cell located at the Verkhne-Udinsk district police department (now Lenina St., 13). An auction-sale of movable property confiscated from citizens for non-payment of arrears due to them was carried out here. As a rule, the perpetrators tried to make arrears to the city government, without leading to the sale of property. Arrears were taken from all debtors, regardless of their position. By the way, members of the city government often fell into their number.
The approval of plans and facades of private buildings, the issuance of permits for reconstruction and supervision of the correct use of buildings in cities, according to the city regulation of June 16, 1870, was left to the city councils. When building the acquired plots, the user wrote to the city government an application with the estate development plan in two copies, where he asked for permission to build the newly proposed buildings, taking into account the existing ones. The plan was considered by the city council and a decision was made. Construction was permitted subject to compliance with the building plan, the building charter and the mandatory regulations and rules established by law.
The city government could allow the construction of a stone building, but with the condition that the wooden building be demolished in this place or separated from another building by a firewall. It was not allowed to make windows and slope the roof into their yard without the consent of the neighbors. If this rule was violated, the neighbors sought through the city government that "the completed windows were sealed tightly into a solid wall." The military governor of the Trans-Baikal region, Ilyashevich, in his circular dated April 30, 1881, proposed to the Verkhne-Udinsk city government “in the form of eliminating evil” plans submitted for approval to submit for consideration by the city architect or persons performing this position for hire, and ordered the police department to strictly monitor the exact implementation of the rules building charter and resolutions issued by the city duma.
Second half of the 19th century It is characterized by a complicated planning structure of buildings and rich decoration of facades in the form of sawn and embossed carvings. At this time, open galleries and verandas on carved pillars, facing the street with a main entrance under a canopy, became widespread in Verkhneudinsk. The visors were usually supported by wooden carved or wrought iron brackets. The roofs of houses and entrance gates, chimneys and drainpipes were decorated with perforated iron. They continued to build as before, houses with mezzanines. The mezzanine was complemented by a balcony from the main and courtyard facades. From the yard began to adjoin additional volumes of vestibules and closets. The facades of many houses were sheathed with rustic boards. Window casings, friezes and cornices of houses were decorated with carvings, and false carvings began to appear on the shoulder blades of the protruding ends of the walls. Wooden houses were also built with plastered facades and with imitation of architectural profiles of stone architecture, which was envisaged in some projects.
3.2 Estate development of Verkhneudinsk
Since that time, the main planning element of the city has become a block built around the perimeter, but sometimes small houses - outbuildings were also located inside the blocks. A two-story stone house facing the corner of the main street and Troitskaya (Lenin street, 13) and a small one-story stone outbuilding (Lenin street, 15) built in 1801-1804. at the expense of the upper-Udinsk tradesman D.M. Pakholkov, are among the earliest stone buildings in Verkhneudinsk. The territory of the Pakholkov estate was divided into two unequal parts. The largest of them was occupied by the front yard with the indicated buildings, and the second - by the back yard, where the garden and buildings for livestock were located. The territory of the estate with an area of 676 square sazhens occupied a third of the length of the quarter and more than half of its width. Of the wooden buildings built at the same time as the two-story and one-story stone houses, the site included an outbuilding, an outhouse, a barn, a bathhouse, and a barn with a stable. In 1810, the buildings, together with the land plot, were sold to the treasury, and the main two-story building housed offices, county and zemstvo courts, the city police, and the county treasury.
On the main street of the city - Bolshoi, the estates of all classes living in the city were presented, social isolation was not observed. The estates of merchants, burghers, clergymen, peasants, Cossacks, settlers were adjacent to each other, although the buildings themselves gave an idea of the material wealth of the owners. Among the listed estates, merchant houses impress with their volumes. These are mostly two-story, with shops on the first floor and living quarters on the second. Their facades stretched along the street for decent distances and stood out among the estates of other classes.
For a large number of outbuildings, the estate of the merchant of the 1st guild Pyotr Dmitrievich Losev on Losevskaya (now Communist) street is of interest. The territory of the estate included a two-story house (the lower floor was stone, the top was wooden), the same outbuilding, and one stone outbuilding. A stone building with seven shops and outbuildings: a stone two-story building with storerooms and rooms and a guardhouse. Of the wooden outbuildings there were: a laundry room and a bathhouse, a two-story building with barns, an import with barns, an import, a drying room, a living room, a hayloft with a stable, a cellar with an import. The value of the property was estimated at 28 thousand rubles.
The estate of the honorary citizen Apollon Kurbatov on the street. Bolshoy (Lenin St.) occupied an elongated estate, stretching the entire width of the block, with an exit to the street. Bolshaya Embankment (Smolin St.). There was a stone one-story house with a mezzanine, under it there was a warm basement; stone one-story outbuilding. Stone outbuildings: four barns, one carriage house, two cellars, a yard, a pantry with a cellar. Wooden outbuildings: a one-story kitchen, a sauna on a stone foundation, three wooden barns and a hayloft. The cost of buildings - 10 thousand rubles. A distinctive feature of this estate was its unusual configuration - an extended length with a small width. But this narrow and long section overlooking the street. Bolshaya Embankment, was built up practically.
The manor with wooden buildings on the site and the main stone house (the second floor is wooden - Lenina St., 15) overlooking the main street and Sennaya (Sverdlov St.) with equal facades, in 1874 belonged to the merchant Vasily Mashanov of the Upper Udinsk 2nd guild. Of the outbuildings there were: two barns, an import, a cellar, a bathhouse, a hayloft and a kitchen. The buildings were damaged in a fire in 1878, and the second wooden floor burned down near the main two-story house.
A large estate, stretching in length for the entire block from Sennaya (Sverdlov St.) to Troitskaya (Kuibyshev St.), in 1874 was occupied by the Kyakhta merchant Feoktistiya Ivanovna Novikova. The list of the owner of the estate already included a stone two-story house, the main one on the territory (Lenin St., 20). The first floor of this house was occupied by four trading shops, a wine cellar with a cellar. In the courtyard - a stone one-story kitchen. Of the wooden buildings were: a kitchen with a bathhouse, two barns, two barns and a hayloft with a stable. Later, the estate passed to a new owner - commerce adviser, cavalier and hereditary honorary citizen Tarsky, the first guild merchant Yakov Andreevich Nemchinov.
A two-story stone house at the corner of Bolshaya (Lenin St.) and Troitskaya (Kuibyshev St.) on the site allotted by the Verkhneudinsk commandant's office on February 26, 1786, was built by the first owner of the estate, merchant Andrey Titov in 1795 and is one of the earliest stone buildings of Verkhneudinsk (Lenin St., 11). In the lists of house owners for 1874, and at that time it belonged to a new owner, the Verkhne-Udinsk merchant Matvey Nikolaevich Zharov, it is said: “... there are three trading shops and a pantry in the house. Of the outbuildings for this period, there were: three barns, a kitchen, an import, a hayloft and two cellars.
According to the list of house owners for 1874, there were no stone buildings (Lenin St., 17 and 19) at that time. There were wooden one-story buildings of the heir of the merchant Ivan Alekseevich Naletov - a one-story house, three barns and a yard. From the early history of the development of this estate, it is known that, according to the serf deed committed at the serf affairs of the Verkhne-Udinsk district court, from September 20, 1826 to 1835, it was owned by "state councilor and cavalier Nikolai Stepanov son Losev." And on September 29, 1835, N.S. Losev gives a merchant's fortress and sells his estate to a new owner - the "merchant's son" from Upper Udinsk of the first guild, Alexei Grigorievich Naletov Sr. The territory of the estate, which was in the parish of the Bogorodskaya Cathedral Church, “in the amount of twenty-nine long and twenty-six sazhens in diameter with a house and outbuildings,” was sold to A.G. Naletov for 4,000 government banknotes. Until 1862, the place was owned by his son, the Upper Udin merchant of the second guild, Ivan Alekseevich Naletov. Since May 13, 1874, the estate has been owned by his heir, the Upper Udinian tradesman Alexei Ivanovich Naletov, who at that time was under guardianship until the age of majority. And since 1893, the composition of the buildings on the estate was changed by its new owner - a peasant of the Mukhorshibir volost, Agafangel Andreyevich Mostovsky. On the site of wooden houses, an elongated one-story stone building is being built, stretching from the stone one-story house of the guardhouse (Lenin St., 15) to the trading shops of the tradesman Samsonovich (Lenin St., 21). In 1894, this building is already listed as existing. Its premises included trading shops overlooking the main street. At the beginning of the twentieth century. homeowner of the estate A.A. Mostovskoy rented out the commercial premises of the house to the partnership “Vtorov A.F. and sons”, which housed various shops.
In 1874, on the estate of a former peasant of the Mukhorshibir volost, L.A. Samsonovich were mostly wooden buildings - a one-story house, an unfinished stone outbuilding, four warm wooden benches with storage rooms. Of the outbuildings: a kitchen, a bathhouse, two two-story barns, two imports, a barn and a hayloft. A two-story stone house on the corner (Kirova, 23) is the main house on the estate, which was formed by the end of the 19th century. According to the project of 1876, a two-story stone house will be attached to the main corner house with shops from the side of Bazarnaya Street (Kirov Street). According to the drawing made in 1885, a second floor will be built over the stone wing (Kirov St., 28) and a stone shop with a basement (Lenin St., 21). The commercial premises of the estate were leased to the owners.
In 1874 and earlier, at the corner of Bolshaya (Lenin St.) and Bazarnaya (Kirov St.), there was the estate of a peasant from the Kuytun village, Semyon Fedorovich Borisov. At that time, on a land plot with sides of 30 fathoms, there was a wooden one-story house on the corner, outbuildings, one of which was two-story (stone bottom, wooden top), and the other one-story wooden and two stone benches with living rooms. Of the outbuildings were: a stone pantry, a wooden bathhouse, three two-story barns, a hayloft, an import and a stone cellar.
For 1884 this territory is owned by a peasant woman of the Kuytun village (she is also temporarily a Verkhneudinskaya merchant's wife of the 2nd guild) Tatyana Borisova. On her estate we already see a corner stone two-story house with trading shops on the ground floor, a semi-stone outbuilding (Kirov St., 33), four warm stone shops with pantries. From stone outbuildings: pantry, cellar. From wooden - a bathhouse, three two-story barns, a hayloft and an import. It should be noted that the Borisovs owned this place before the nationalization of property (the last heirs are the peasants Ankudin Semenovich and Petr Semenovich Borisov). At the beginning of the 20th century, an electric theater was opened here - an illusion, which was the predecessor of the Erdem cinema.
On the corner section of the northern side of the Market Square (at the corner of Lenin and Kirov) was the estate of the Upper Udinsk tradesman Nikolai Sotnikov. In 1874, there were only wooden buildings on its territory: a one-story house with four warm shops with living rooms. Of the outbuildings - a kitchen with a bathhouse, five barns, a hayloft and a hayloft. In 1886, the new owner of the estate, Innokenty Ilyich Menshikov, a constable of the Verkhneudinsk village, built stone one-story shops here. In 1877, the building with retail shops was completed to the corner of Bolshaya and Bazarnaya (Lenin St., 24), (the second floor of the building was wooden, it was built on in 1924). Starts to build a stone retail space on the street. Large (now there are shops). In the 1900s here, in a corner building, an illusion theater was opened.
The estate of the heirs of the honorary citizen Apollon Kurbatov in 1874 consisted of a stone one-story house with a mezzanine and a warm basement (Lenin St., 27). Among the stone outbuildings were: four barns, one carriage house, two cellars, a yard, a pantry with a basement. Of the wooden buildings - a kitchen, a bathhouse, three barns and a hayloft. A distinctive feature of this estate is its large length with a small width. It is documented that since October 23, 1819, this place was owned by an honorary citizen of the city of Verkhneudinsk Apollon Mitrofanovich Kurbatov, according to the serf deed committed in the former Irkutsk chamber of the civil court. The traveler Alexy Martos wrote about the main house of this estate in 1824: “The house of the merchant Kurbatov of pure architecture with a regular portico is one of the best buildings in the city.
In 1875 the estate was sold to the Nerchinsk 1st guild merchants Mikhail and Nikolai Dmitriev Butin. This is how the heirs of A.M. disposed of their estate. Kurbatov. The new owners, Nerchinsk merchants of the 1st guild, the Butin brothers (“The Butin Brothers Trading House”), replenish the number of outbuildings by building a rather impressive stone wine cellar (the building has been preserved). At the beginning of the 20th century, the estate on Bolshaya Street changed its owners. Merchant Aleksandr Kuzmich Kobylkin has been on the lists of homeowners since 1905. Hereditary honorary citizen A.K. Kobylkin was the owner of a brewery, a glass-making factory, and an artificial mineral water factory located on Batareynaya Square.
The main house of the estate (Lenin St., 27) is one of the few buildings in the city built according to the albums of 1809 "The Highest Approved Facades". Until our time, the building has been preserved with significant restructuring. In the 1950s the four-column Corinthian portico was dismantled, the second floor was built on, subsequently the stucco frieze of the mezzanine, decorative chimneys on the roof pipes were lost.
The estate of state councilor Khaminov is on the opposite side of the main street. In 1874, there were mainly wooden buildings here - a house with a mezzanine and an outbuilding. In addition to these buildings, there was a vodka distillery and a wholesale wine warehouse, "lined" with stone, a kitchen, a bathhouse, two barns, two haylofts and a hayloft in the yard. There was a drinking establishment in the outbuilding. In 1879, the estate with all the buildings passed to a new owner - the Irkutsk merchant of the 1st guild, Ivan Flegontovich Goldobin. According to the project of 1888, the new owner built the main one-story manor house with mezzanines (Lenin St., 26), a stone outbuilding (facing on Lenin St.), a vodka factory building with a basement (not preserved), while the former wooden buildings were dismantled. The drawing of 1890 shows a plan for the final reconstruction of the outbuildings of the estate of the Verkhneudinsk 1st guild merchant I.F. Goldobin, formed by the end of the 19th century
Since the 1900s, the estate has been registered with the wife of Lieutenant General Kukel - Elizaveta Ivanovna. E.I. Kukel as well as her ex-husband I.F. Goldobin, was engaged in charity work for the needs of the city. The drawing of 1881 shows how the land plot adjoined the neighboring estate with its northern side, while a gap remained between the fences of the owners in the form of a neutral corridor 4 sazhens wide, where, according to the article of the building charter, any building was prohibited.
On the estate of the Selenga merchant Alexandra Anepodistovna Truneva, located on the opposite side of the main street in 1874 and earlier, the buildings were wooden: a two-story house on the corner, a one-story outbuilding. Two barns, a bathhouse, a kitchen, three stores, a cellar and two haylofts. According to the project of 1882, a two-story stone building was being built on the estate, with its main facade facing the street. Passing through (Kalandarashvili).
According to the drawings made in 1884, one-story stone benches for two cells will be built instead of a wooden outbuilding, facing the front facade on the street. Bolshaya (the place of the left wing of the house on Lenina street, 29). According to the drawing of 1889, the second floor is being built over the existing stone shops, forming the left wing of the building. The right wing of the house was completed to the corner of the square in the first decade of the 20th century, repeating the decorative plasticity of the facade of the left wing.
The land plot where the “house with Atlantes” was later built (30 Lenina St.) belonged to the Cossack Luka Budunov in 1874 and earlier. Here, on its territory, there were quite modest wooden buildings: the main one-story house and an outbuilding. Of the outbuildings, there were only a winter hut and a barn. At the beginning of the first decade of the XX century. the new owner of the estate, tradesman Naftoly Leontyevich Kapelman, will build here a stone two-story house with a front facade to the main street. The building with elements of eclecticism, characteristic of this time, was built in the shortest possible time from June 2 to October 5, 1907. The lower floor was leased by the owner for a tea shop, a confectionery shop, and a coffee shop. On September 12, 1912, a partnership was registered in this building with the name “N.L. Kapelman and Kє. Under the company "Transbaikalia". In the same year, a partnership will be organized here under the firm “N.L. Kapelman and G.I. Vinevich.
Of the estates on Nagornaya Square, the territory of the merchant's son Samuil Iosievich Rosenstein with the main three-story house on the corner of Bolshaya and Novo-Spasskaya (Sukhe-Bator St., 16) deserves attention. From the history of the building of this place, the following can be noted. According to the drawing of the general plan of the estate, made in 1901, the one-story wooden buildings planned for this year were built - an outbuilding, an entrance and a gate. In a relatively short time, the main stone building of the estate will be built on the site of wooden buildings. One can be convinced of this by reading the newspaper "Verkhneudinsky sheet" for 1905, where the Oriental Institute was already opened that year, which existed for a short time. Since 1909, a public meeting will be located here.
Along the Uda Embankment, the estate of the settlers Yankel and Davyd Reifovich deserves attention. Here, in 1874, a wooden one-story house was located (it contains a drinking establishment). Of the outbuildings were: two barns and a shed.
The estate of the heirs of the clerk Iokif Lavoshnikov in 1874 was located at the corner of Bolshaya and Pochtamtskaya (Linkhovoin Street). On its territory there was a wooden two-story house and a wooden outbuilding. On the 3rd Mordovskaya Street from Uda (Banzarov Street) was the estate of the peasant Innokenty Bayankin. Here in 1874 there was a wooden one-story house on the corner of Mordovskaya and Spasskaya (Kalinina St.), with two wooden one-story outbuildings. Of the outbuildings: two barns and a bathhouse. The estate of the heirs of the tradesman Alexander Burlakov for the same year consisted of a wooden one-story house. Of the outbuildings: a winter hut, a bathhouse, four barns, two imports, a hayloft and two sheds. On the courtyard plot on the other side of the street were the buildings of the tradesman Mikhail Masterov: a wooden one-story old house with two outbuildings. From the outbuildings there were: a bathhouse, two barns, an import, two haylofts and a cellar.
Along Bazarnaya Street (Kirov St., 37), the estate of the Upper Udinsk tradesman Yakov Rubinshtein occupied a large territory and faced the Bazarnaya Square with its main facade. Here, in 1874, there was a stone two-story house (there are two trading shops in it). A wooden bench is attached to it, three separate wooden benches with pantries. The house is wooden on a stone foundation, it has two shops, a mezzanine above them, a wooden one-story outbuilding, a kitchen, a bathhouse with a kitchen, ten barns, two imports, a hayloft and a cellar.
There are literally a few surviving estates with surviving buildings. Among them is the estate of the Upper Udinsk bourgeois Burlakov N.N., to some extent a typical example of a bourgeois estate of the late 19th - early 20th centuries. The building site in terms of a rectangular outline, with dimensions of 21 sazhens on the street. Bazarnaya (Kirov St.) and 15 sazhens on the street. Big Embankment. Here you can see the division of the territory into the front yard and back. In the front was the main house, occupying a corner place, with an outbuilding indented from it by 6 fathoms along Bazarnaya Street; from the outbuilding at a distance of 4.5 fathoms a kitchen with a bathhouse and a well. On the opposite side of the forecourt there were two barns and a barn (in one volume), with a cellar under them. Nearby is a small skating rink (apparently for children) and a toilet. In the back yard: an open shed, a flock, a barn, hayloft. Mountain ash bushes grew not far from the import, there was also a vegetable garden, a weed dump, a greenhouse, and a driveway. The front and back yards were separated by a fence. There were two entrances to the territory of the estate through the gate from Bolshaya Embankment and Bazarnaya. Until our time, the main house, an outbuilding, a two-story barn with a fence have been preserved from the buildings.
The estates of the Cossacks in the Zaudinsky suburb were more modest. It was mainly located here: a wooden one-story house, with it a bathhouse and a barn.
Urban development was not always carried out in compliance with the rules of the building charter, there were violations.
So, the Verkhneudinsk district police department made a remark to the upper-Udinsk philistines Roman and Gleb Panteleev (at the corner of Bolshaya and Zakaltusnaya), who were building a trading shop on their estate with deviations from the facade and plan. The owners increased the dimensions of the building in length and width, which resulted in an illegal gap from the residential building located on the estate, i.e. less than four fathoms.
In a petition from the Cossack of the Verkhneudinsk village, Tivurty Gorbunov, to the Verkhneudinsk district police department, it was said about the construction of a hayloft next to Gorbunov's fence on the neighboring estate, which was also a violation of one of the paragraphs of the construction charter.
Developers were given such instructions as, for example: “... tradesman Ya.M. Rubinshtein Verkhneudinsky city government allows to make an extension of a stone building, but with the condition that the building on the basis of 352 Art. Charter building ed. 1857 from the existing building was separated by a firewall, as well as a wooden building to be demolished or separated from the building by a firewall, and on the basis of 445 and 446 Art. X volume 1 part of the law ed. 1857 near the proposed building, without the consent of the neighbors, windows and a roof slope into the yard of the tradesman Sotnikov should not be made. Or “... so that in the proposed extension to the building I would not make windows to my yard and not lead the roofs so that water would drain from it into my yard, and also I would attach drainpipes or gutters from the roof of the existing house and seal the windows made tightly into a solid wall . Otherwise, I can act according to the law on the basis of 447 Art. X volume 1 part ed. 1857 ... ".
The big fire that happened on June 10, 1878 destroyed more than three-quarters of the city's buildings. The townspeople restored their houses within two years. Already on August 2, 1878, a circular of the Ministry of Internal Affairs was issued signed by the manager, Secretary of State L. Makov, addressed to the military governor of the Transbaikal region. It outlined a list of mandatory precautions. Here are just a few of the points regarding the development of the main street. “To cover the front houses along the main streets with iron, and the outbuildings along these streets and houses in other areas of the city, depending on the condition of the homeowners, with iron, board or straw, soaked in densely dissolved clay ...”. "The erection of any kind of wooden buildings in courtyards with less than 10 sazhens along the street is definitely prohibited." “Poor residents who have long owned small-sized places (less than 10 sazhens along the street) repair dilapidated houses are allowed each time only at the discretion of the city duma.” “In the courtyards surrounding the Cathedral Square, all buildings must be made of stone, and therefore it is forbidden to correct the wooden front and outbuildings existing there.”
During the restoration of buildings there were violations. So, on December 17, 1878, the Verkhneudinsk mayor wrote to the members of the City Council, “... on the burned out in the fire on June 10 in the city of Verkhneudinsk and other places, the buildings of the townsfolk are being erected without observing the rules of the Construction Charter 361, and some without the permission of the City Council in opposition 114 Art. City position. And therefore, in arranging the wrong buildings, I humbly ask you, Gracious sovereigns, to inspect all the buildings erected in the city of Verkhneudinsk upon receipt of this, and in case of observed deviations, together with the police officer, draw up appropriate acts in order to bring the perpetrators to justice. The city government also took a great part in helping the victims of the fire.
A report has been preserved in the presence of the Verkhneudinsk City Council dated June 21, 1878, which noted that “... taking into account several statements from persons whose houses burned down during a fire on June 10, the City Council, in view of the necessary support for the welfare of the residents who were deprived of their last shelter, suffered from the fire and on the basis of the circular of the Ministry of the Interior dated July 16, 1871, No. 6496, asks for permission to allow the above-mentioned buildings, so that everyone who wants to build on the left side of the areas they own will have a four-yard gap from the neighbor who owns the place.
About the construction of firewalls by the residents of the city at that time there is such a record: “... I, the undersigned widow, second lieutenant Matryona Mikhailovna Leontyeva, gave this signature to the Verkhneudinsk City Government that in fencing an accident against a two-story hayloft under construction on the land belonging to me, I am obliged to put on both sides , i.e. from the place of the merchant Ovsyankin against the importation of a stone firewall belonging to me ... ". And her neighbor, Verkhneudinsky merchant of the 2nd guild, Alexander Ivanovich Ovsyankin, in turn, gives a subscription to M.M. Leontiev, where he guarantees to make a retreat from his barns and import two fathoms from a two-story barn. On the estate of the merchant Ovsyankin, it was proposed to reduce the canopy near the wing to a four-sage gap from the newly proposed house for construction (now existing at the corner of Kommunisticheskaya and Sverdlov streets).
In the same case, there is an announcement by the Cossack of the Verkhneudinsk village of Tivurty Gorbunov, where he complains about his neighbor, the Cossack Vasily Gaskov, that he built two haylofts and a drinking establishment at a distance of less than 4 sazhens from his house.
After the fire, a circular dated April 30, 1881 was issued on compliance with building rules, where the administration is interested in “... whether the specified gaps are observed during the projected building”, and prescribes that the length of the wooden building should be no more than 12 fathoms, whether there are gaps between stone buildings in two sazhens, and between the wooden ones - 4 sazhens, and so that from the left border of the yard there are 4 sazhens, and two sazhens from the back. “Is it supposed to arrange firewalls dividing stone buildings into parts less than 12 fathoms in length, as well as when building wooden buildings for inter-ownership…”.
For non-compliance with the mandatory resolution of the City Duma, developers were punished. So “... in view of the fact that between Kulikova’s house and the building of the five shops belonging to her there is only an eight-yard gap, allow Menshikov to cover three shops from the border of the merchant Rubinstein with a plank so that the remaining two shops near Kulikova’s house as not having the obligatory decree established by him § 40 The City Duma of a six-yard gap was immediately broken by the force of § 45 of the same decree. In 1902, changes were made to the mandatory resolutions of the City Duma on gaps between wooden buildings up to six fathoms. In 1907, the City Duma issued a mandatory resolution "... on the prohibition of the construction of porches with protruding streets and on the establishment of a payment to the city income for the land occupied by porches."
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110 years ago, active construction began on Batareyka - the glass factory of the Verkhneudinsk first guild of the merchant Alexander Kuzmich Kobylkin was being built on a site leased to him by the city government for a period of 39 years. In our opinion, it is from this moment that we can talk about the birth of industry in our city.
Of course, even before that, small soap, leather, and oil mills existed in Verkhneudinsk. However, all of them did not exist for long, their productivity was insignificant, and not many people worked for them. The glass factory of Kobylkin, as well as the distillery and brewery built soon, and the mekhanlit plant worked for decades. And it is not Alexander Kuzmich's fault that part of his legacy is squandered, and partly ekes out a miserable existence.
Who was Alexander Kuzmich Kobylkin? He was born in 1859, although there are other versions regarding the date of his birth. He was from a family of poor Nerchinsk philistines. He began to work as a teenager - a "stove boy", who brought firewood at the Goldobin distillery. He rose to the rank of vodka master, and then to the accountant and chief accountant. So he knew the production thoroughly and from all sides. He always dreamed of his own production and in 1889 he was assigned to the Upper Udinsk merchants.
Starting with the grocery trade, Kobylkin quickly occupies a prominent place among the Upper Udinsk merchants. Already in June 1891, he was one of the twenty eminent citizens of the city who constituted the honorary guard of Tsarevich Nikolai Alexandrovich passing through Verkhneudinsk. However, successfully developing trade, adding manufacturing trade to the grocery, Alexander Kuzmich continued to think about production.
And at the end of the 19th century, his dream began to come true. In order to understand how thoroughly Kobylkin approached his business, it is enough to look at the old buildings of the distillery in Ulan-Ude, which in themselves are unique monuments of industrial architecture for Buryatia, where it is just right to take excursions.
Unfortunately, in the early 1930s, another brainchild of the merchant, a glass factory, burned down. The plant started working again in 1935, already in a new location. And for some reason that is not clear to us, this year is considered the year of his birth. But we do not change the date of birth in the passport every time we move to a new place of residence, even after a fire. So this year we can celebrate not 75, but all 110 years of this plant.
Here we must make a digression of a personal nature. I heard the name of Alexander Kuzmich Kobylkin from early childhood, this man played such an important role in the fate of our family. It was on his initiative that factory clerks gathered glassblowers all over Siberia. So my great-grandfather Polikarp Nikitich Baklanov ended up in Verkhneudinsk, having moved here from Minusinsk, where the local factory went bankrupt. At the glass factory, our grandfather Alexander Polikarpovich also began his career, however, he was then about ten years old and his name was simply Sasha. And it was here that he met our grandmother Shamsutdina Musalimovna, however, her name was then Shurka. And until their last days, and grandparents lived a long life, they remembered Alexander Kuzmich with extraordinary respect. And it was for what. Masters and workers were provided with housing, not some kind of barracks, but houses with a farmstead. It is curious that people still live in these houses. He organized the supply of products at preferential prices, organized leisure activities.
In 1910, he leased a piece of forest adjacent to the factories for the construction of pavilions and pavilions for workers to relax. Moreover, he undertook to keep the leased area clean, and the coniferous forest itself "should not be exterminated under any circumstances." In winter, a skating rink was set up on Uda opposite Battery, so Kobylkin also contributed to the development of physical culture and sports.
He did not forget about his production. In 1906, Alexander Kuzmich opened his own printing house in a two-story building specially built for this purpose with a bookbinding workshop. At that time, it was the best printing house, later it became the basis for the Republican printing house. It was here that a unique brochure about the Zaudinsky Ascension Church was printed, which we mentioned in No. 14 of the Verkhneudinsky Leaflet.
An artificial mineral water plant was built, and in the years of the First World War, a metal repair plant. And this enterprise, like other factories of Kobylkin, provided tens and hundreds of jobs. Kobylkin's commercial activities are also developing. Its manufacture, grocery and wine trade spreads throughout Transbaikalia, in Chita and Nerchinsk. However, talking about his life, one cannot say about the other side of his activity. This is all the more appropriate because we remember this before Children's Day. Having received his education at a distillery, Alexander Kuzmich did a lot to ensure that other children studied in real schools. It maintains and sometimes builds schools, not only in the city, but also in the villages.
Kobylkin is a trustee or honorary guardian of the Verkhneudinsky women's progymnasium (we wrote about this in one of the issues), the Verkhneudinsky city parochial school, the parochial school in the Zaudinsky suburb, the Verkhneudinsky real school, city one-class schools, parochial schools in Khara-Shibiri, Kalenov and in Ilyinsky. In fact, all these educational institutions were supported by his funds.
During the Russo-Japanese War, Kobylkin participated in the organization of hospitals for the wounded. It is not surprising that Alexander Kuzmich was a member of the guardianship society for prisons and was a trustee of the prison church of the Virgin of Sorrows. This is only part of the charitable activities that Kobylkin was engaged in. Unlike others, he did not like to advertise it, we learn about this from archival files. However, the state noted Alexander Kuzmich. He was awarded gold medals on the Apizhnaya and Stanislavsky ribbons, the Red Cross medal and other awards. And for church donations - the Bible from the Holy Synod. But perhaps the most honorable award was the title of honorary citizen, which was awarded to Alexander Kuzmich Kobylkin on May 15, 1911. For the merchant and industrialist, this was more important than other orders.
At the beginning of the 20th century, Kobylkin bought one of the best houses in the city - a house with a mezzanine that once belonged to the merchant Kurbatov - right opposite Goldobin's house. In a huge house, he occupied only two rooms. He wore the same frock coat and cap. And sometimes, allowing himself a mug or two of beer, he borrowed money from his own workers in order to pay off.
Here is what the attending physician M.V. Kobylkina wrote. Tansky: “... I always looked at Alexander Kuzmich as the main clerk, subordinate to a strict, demanding owner - to all my created enterprises. He himself, the real owner, did not see any joys from them, on the contrary, they completely exploited him and literally sucked the blood out of him. With great perseverance, I managed to persuade Alexander Kuzmich to go to the Crimea for treatment, and he broke away from the exhausting business for a month and a half. It was his only light in his working life ... ".
After the advent of Soviet power, all Kobylkin's enterprises were nationalized, and he himself was arrested. Shortly after his release from prison, he died "of physical exhaustion." The whole city came out to bury him: from the house to the Odigitrievsky Cathedral, the coffin was not even carried, but handed over. It is known quite accurately the place of his burial in the courtyard of the cathedral, alas, it is not marked in any way.
Today's industrialists and merchants do not actually remember their predecessors at all. Perhaps because the comparison is not in their favor. And, celebrating the 230th anniversary of the Verkhneudinsk fair, it would be nice to remember that 110 years ago the industry of our city was born, and to honor the glorious name of Alexander Kuzmich Kobylkin.
Today, when we are building a welfare state, there is no clear understanding in society, what will be the result? And what is a "socially responsible business"? Whereas in the history of the capital of our republic there is a rather long period when such a business existed.
On trade routes
In the trading city of Verkhneudinsk, the main donors were, of course, merchants. If a simple city dweller donated from 1 to 3 rubles when raising funds (which was a lot in the prices of those years), then merchants donated from 100 rubles and more. And it was a noticeable phenomenon in public life. Shortly before the revolutionary upheavals, in 1903, the Society for Assistance to the Poor was founded in Verkhneudinsk, a board was elected, headed by Elizaveta Goldobina, the wife of an eminent merchant. But this is the final stage of the charity movement. And how did it all start?
Already by the beginning of the 18th century, Verkhneudinsk could be considered a major trading center in Transbaikalia. Trade with China, gold mining, furs led to the emergence of a wealthy layer - the merchant class. They were active citizens: merchants built shops and factories, acted as patrons of art. A significant proportion of the merchant class were the Old Believers - people strong in faith, who had strong moral principles.
They donated a lot of money to good causes: they built and maintained hospitals, orphanages, invalid homes, shelters for the poor and the elderly, made donations to churches and schools. In the late 18th and early 19th centuries, merchants made up 12.8% of the city's population. At the end of the 18th century, 20 merchants registered in the guild were trading in Verkhneudinsk. In 1844 there were already 69 guild merchants in the city.
Merchants of the 1st guild traded in Kyakhta along the border with the Chinese and inside the empire. Merchants of the II guild traded wholesale and retail in cities and fairs. The trade of merchants of the III guild was limited to Verkhneudinsk and its county. But there were also small merchants who also did not shy away from charity, which was considered a charitable deed.
Among the merchants of Verkhneudinsk in the first half of the 19th century, the most eminent were Mitrofan Kurbatov - the owner of a glass-making factory and the best two-story stone house in the city, the Mordovsky brothers, merchants Pyotr Lebedev, Pyotr Frolov, Gavrilo Mikhailov, Alexander Shevelev, Alexander Kobylkin, Yakov Rubinshtein, families Sotnikovs, Losevs, Menshikovs, Trunevs, Naletovs and others.
Was the charity profitable? In accordance with the Regulations of the Chief Magistrate of 1721, merchants received sufficient benefits and business opportunities, as they were exempted from recruitment duty. They were allowed to buy peasants and transfer them to laborers, as well as hire workers from another class.
The regulation accelerated the concentration of capital among the merchants and marked the beginning of its separation into the merchant class. By the end of the 18th century, with the adoption of the City Regulations - "Charter for the rights and benefits of the cities of the Russian Empire", the merchant class finally took shape. We will discuss some of them below.
city fathers
The archival materials of that time contain documents indicating that two merchant-philanthropists - Mitrofan Kurbatov and Alexander Shevelev - were the "generators of ideas" and the main executors of socially useful deeds. Mitrofan Kuzmich was a merchant of the 1st guild, an honorary citizen of the city of Verkhneudinsk and the mayor from 1816 to 1819. On shares with a Moscow merchant named Gulyaev, a Barguzin merchant Ivan Chernykh and a Suzdal merchant Nevzorov, he built a soap and glass factory, the first of which was the only one in Transbaikalia at that time.
Merchant Kurbatov, who did not receive a systematic education, was seriously and thoroughly engaged in self-education, was known as an intelligent person. At his own expense, in 1817, he built a dam on the Selenga to "drain rushing water, which ... still brings saving benefits and will serve as an example to later posterity and gratitude to the inhabitants of the city." This dam has been preserved to our time; there is a city beach near it.
The Kurbatovs' house was the center of cultural life in Verkhneudinsk
In 1822, Mitrofan Kurbatov assembled a floating bridge across the Uda, for which he was awarded the gold medal "For Merit" and the title "Honorary Citizen of Verkhneudinsk." The Kurbatovs' house was the center of the cultural life of Verkhneudinsk.
House of Kurbatov, our days. Russianstock.ru, Zorikto Dagbaev
Alexander Shevelev was one of the major donors to the development of education in Verkhneudinsk. He made a generous gift to the city, giving him a house for a school and providing apartments for teachers. For this, he was awarded a silver medal on a scarlet ribbon "to be worn around the neck." Like Kurbatov, Shevelev was among the first shareholders of the Gostiny Dvor under construction. He left his son Gregory as the heir to his capital.
Grigory Alexandrovich, like his father, was engaged in construction contracts. In 1830, he received a government contract for the construction of a medical building on the hot Turkinian dunes (now the resort of Goryachinsk).
Also, Grigory Shevelev rented a land plot near the city, near the Berezovka River (now the Strelka) before it flows into the Uda, and here he started experiments in growing American tobacco and Chinese wheat, vegetables and glue production. He was the first in Transbaikalia to start breeding Merino sheep, took up horse breeding, and conducted experiments on breeding bees. The grandson of Alexander Shevelev, Mikhail Grigorievich, founded the first shipping company in the Far East, whose ships sailed between Hanhou (China) and Vladivostok.
Another merchant (I guild) - Yakov Nemchinov. An honorary citizen of the city of Verkhneudinsk, a philanthropist, he did a lot to improve the city. In 1906, at the opening of the 3rd and 4th grades of a real school, he rented the second floor of his house. At the expense of Nemchinov, a stone chapel was built in the name of the first bishop of the independent Irkutsk diocese, St. Innocent, the miracle worker of Irkutsk. His son, merchant Andrei Yakovlevich Nemchinov, a well-known person in the city, donated 1,000 rubles to organize a meeting of the heir to the Russian throne, Tsarevich Nikolai Romanov, in Verkhneudinsk.
Meeting of the Tsarevich. A triumphal arch was erected for his visit in Verkhneudinsk
"King's Doors" today. Russianstock.ru, Zorikto Dagbaev
To the present day
He became famous for his generous gift for the needs of the city Peter Frolov- Honorary citizen of Verkhneudinsk, tradesman, owner of the estate. In 1870, thanks to his help, the first secondary male educational institution in Transbaikalia was opened - a real school, to which he allocated his two-story stone house (Lenin St., 11). Later, a scholarship named after the donor was established at the Verkhneudinsky Real School. He made another charitable gesture by bequeathing his capital in the amount of 100 thousand rubles, in accordance with the wishes expressed by the Bishop of Transbaikal and Nerchinsk, for the construction of a church in the name of St. John the Baptist.
The same, the first men's real school in Transbaikalia
Ivan Goldobin- Irkutsk merchant of the 1st guild, also a hereditary honorary citizen of Verkhneudinsk. Ivan Flegontovich and his wife Elizaveta Evgrafovna were issued by the government a charter for hereditary honorary citizenship. The whole city knew about the merchant's charitable activities.
House of merchant Goldobin
And today there is a museum of the history of the city.
The great merit of Goldobin is the reception in his house (Lenin St., 26) of the heir to the Russian throne, Tsarevich Nikolai Romanov. In the main house of the Goldobin estate, the Tsarevich stayed on June 21, 1891 upon his return from his round-the-world trip.
Museum of the history of the city, interactive performance "Career of the merchant I.F. Goldobin". Russianstock.ru by Mark Agnor
His wife is Elizaveta Goldobina- a hereditary honorary citizen of Verkhneudinsk, was a trustee of a shelter for children under arrest. In 1896, she bequeathed 25,000 rubles to Verkhneudinsk for the construction of an almshouse and an orphanage. As an honorary trustee of the Upper Udinsk Women's Gymnasium, she donated 1,000 rubles to this educational institution. She was awarded in 1904 by His Highest Imperial Majesty of Favor.
Alexander Kobylkin a citizen of Verkhneudinsk, a merchant of the 1st guild, owned a brewery, glass-making mineral waters on Battery Square and an estate. In 1901, he also leased for 38 years a plot of land of 2400 square meters. sazhens in front of his brewery (on Battery) for the construction of a pavilion and gazebos for the rest of the townspeople. The main house of the Kobylkin estate (Lenin St., 27) has survived to this day. It is registered as an architectural monument of local importance ...