Polishing pine. The subtleties of impeccable hand grinding

You have used the correct finishing compounds and applied them correctly. A strong protective film, and you like the way it looks. What to do next? Perhaps nothing. In some cases it's time to endure finished project from the workshop so everyone could see it. However, more often than not, the final coat of finish is not good enough for you to be proud of your work. By carefully examining the surfaces with your eyes and fingertips, you can easily detect dried dust particles, shagreen or roughness. Get rid of these defects by polishing. This operation consists of leveling the coating film and giving it the desired degree of gloss using fine abrasives. You can achieve a perfectly smooth, glass-like surface using a simple technique similar to sanding the underlying wood. We can't let you touch the finished surface with a polished varnish film, but you can see the difference by comparing photos A and B.

First of all, you need to polish products with surfaces located in plain sight, which are often touched. These include table tops and doors. Start honing your skills on them. Polishing is not difficult and is more than worth the effort.

First, let's list the polishing methods

First a necessary condition for polishing is a coating film, which must be thick enough so as not to rub through it. To do this, at the previous finishing stage, you need to correctly apply several thin layers varnish In addition, patience is required. Allow the film to fully harden before polishing. Remember that it is impossible to add shine to a film that is not sufficiently hard and elastic. Depending on the finishing compounds used, film thickness, temperature and humidity, drying of the coating can last for a month.

If you want to achieve a mirror gloss, it is especially important that the surface of the wood under the varnish is perfectly smooth. Fill open wood with a special filler paste or use a wet sanding method.

You will need various abrasives (photo C). All abrasive materials create small marks-scratches on the surface of the film; the size of these marks affects the reflection of light by the surface (Fig. 1). The finer the abrasive particles, the smaller and finer the scratches and the more shiny the surface will be. Large abrasive particles will leave rough scratches and the surface will have a dull shine. A highly polished gloss varnish looks like glass, reflecting light and surrounding objects.

Any other varnish contains some amount of matting additives, mainly in the form of small particles of silica. These additives reflect light in different directions, giving the coating a soft shine. You can reduce the gloss level of the coating, but you will not be able to make a matte varnish as shiny as a glossy one, so you should determine the desired level of gloss in advance and choose the appropriate finishing composition.

Gloss varnish provides more options. Its shine can be easily reduced to matte. If you decide that you have overdone it, you can restore it to its original gloss. Remember that on surfaces that are not too shiny, coating defects become less noticeable, but on glossy surfaces they appear clearly. To obtain mirror gloss, the coating film must be very hard. Such a film can be obtained using shellac or nitro varnish for finishing. Polyurethane, pentaphthalic and water-based varnishes produce a softer, more flexible film and generally cannot be polished to a high gloss. The surface will be best case scenario, semi-matte with a slight silky shine. Oil varnishes and oil-varnish polishes almost always remain matte, adding only a little shine.

Grinding and polishing: if done correctly it's quite simple

Start mastering the polishing technique from the very beginning. simple way. Apply a layer of wax paste to the surface finished with oil-varnish polish. When the coating is completely dry, use a soft non-woven swab to spread a paste of soft beeswax and hard carnauba wax over the surface (photo D). By rubbing the paste, you smooth out all traces of dust particles, making the surface smooth and pleasant to the touch.

Photos: A – B: When spray coatings are applied, surfaces often develop a so-called shagreen pattern, resembling the skin of an orange (left). You can make such a surface smooth and shiny by polishing (right). C: Polishing pastes can be found in auto care stores, a roller made of sheep wool and sandpaper - in a construction supermarket, and a felt block, Abralon discs, abrasive sponges and pads - in specialized stores that sell everything necessary for professional finishing. D: Minor scratches on a walnut table finished with an oil-varnish polish, can be polished with non-woven abrasive pads using Briwax dark brown wax. E: When dry sanding nitro varnish with fine-grained paper, the top layer of the film turns into white dust. Change the paper frequently to avoid getting greasy. When finished sanding, clean the surface with a cloth or compressed air.

The probability of rubbing through the coating film is low, and the product acquires a soft, radiant shine. Surfaces finished with shellac, nitro varnish or alkyd-oil varnish usually have more defects than those coated with oil-varnish varnish. Often you can find specks of dust, brush marks, bubbles and drips. If the defects are minor, polishing will be as simple as in the previous case. At the same time, numerous microscopic scratches are created on the surface of the film, giving the coating a soft shine.

Open pores, bumps and other defects will not disappear, but they will be less noticeable on a semi-matte surface. You can use mineral spirits, soap, or any other lubricant instead of wax, but it is better to remove defects while applying wax.

More defects - more work

Now let's imagine a thicker coating film with several big amount defects, among which dried dust particles are more common, especially on slow-drying oil-varnish coatings. Most of them can be easily scraped off with a knife blade after the next layer has dried. Keep the blade large and index fingers almost vertically and carefully scrape the surface, making smooth movements towards you.

Be careful not to scratch the film. Dried dust can be remove by sanding, but the blade allows you to do this faster and with less effort, especially on flat surfaces. Curved, profiled and carved areas should be sanded. The blade scraping method also reduces the risk of through-cut damage to the coating film, as occurs when sanding the edges of flat surfaces. The finishing composition applied in liquid form seems to tend to the middle of the surface, forming a thinner layer along the edges, where it can be easily damaged.

Spraying a finish allows for a thicker film at the edges, but achieving a smooth transition using a brush or dip is nearly impossible. After scraping off the dust particles, you need to additionally sand the coating to even it out and get rid of other defects. This operation will not take much time if the dried layers are sequentially sanded during the coating process. For leveling the film, waterproof abrasive paper with silicon carbide grains wrapped around a block with glued felt, cloth, cork or rubber is best suited (photo E). If you want to sand dry, use stearate-coated paper (usually gray) - the best choice. This paper contains a soap-like substance that protects the abrasive from clogging. However, it should not be used when an additional layer of coating is going to be applied. For sanding water-based varnishes and polyurethane, it is better to use waterproof silicon carbide paper (usually black).

If you prefer wet grinding, choose plain waterproof paper without a stearate coating. Lubricants protect the abrasive from clogging with coating particles that stick together into tiny lumps and get stuck between the abrasive grains.

These lumps can leave noticeable marks on the coating film. You can use soap oxen, white spirit, kerosene, wax or oil as lubricants. Experiment with them to feel their properties. With soapy water the process is more active, but the paper clogs faster. With oil, sanding slows down, but the paper remains clean for a long time. Speeding up the process may seem effective way saving time, but this often leads to through sanding of the coating (photo F). This is possible when using any lubricants. You can delete large plot coating, creating a defect that is difficult to correct, and not even notice it until the lubricant dries.

To even out the coating film, sand carefully and little by little. Then clean the surface and shine a bright light on it. If shiny areas are noticeable, the surface is not yet leveled. Continue sanding the entire surface, not just the shiny areas.

Each new layer of composition (nitrovarnish or shellac) softens the previous layer and firmly connects with it, forming almost a single layer (Fig. 2). However, each layer of so-called reactive (or polymerizing) compounds dries as a separate layer, which can create problems during sanding and polishing. If you sand unevenly, you may remove some of the top layer and affect the underlying layer, resulting in patchy areas. irregular shape with sharply defined light borders. Level the coating film until it is pleasing to the eye and touch, then apply a layer of paste wax using an abrasive sponge as in the previous cases.

Figure 1 (top): How polishing changes shine

Figure 2 (bottom): Two types of coatings: compositions on organic solvents and polymerizing

Each new layer of a composition based on organic solvents, such as nitro varnish or shellac, is firmly connected to the previous one, therefore similar coating easy to polish. Polymerizing (reactive) compounds, like polyurethane, form separate layers. Sanding through the top layer results in unsightly streaks.

How to achieve a mirror gloss

If you want the surface finished with nitro varnish or shellac to shine like a mirror, first level it as described earlier. Then continue polishing, gradually moving to finer abrasives, until the desired result is achieved. You can use abrasive paper with a grain size of 800-1500 units, polishing pastes and microabrasives, the grain size of which is measured in many thousands of units.

Leveling and polishing pastes, as well as polishing liquids (polishes) for cars, suitable for our purposes, are not difficult to find on sale, and they do an excellent job with furniture coatings. Most leveling pastes that are orange or pink color, allow you to achieve a matte shine. After using them, move on to white polishing pastes to achieve a glossy surface.

These pastes can be rubbed over the surface by hand or using a machine. A piece of felt or a short-haired tampon is suitable for applying them. It is better to polish the coating with a sheep's wool roller (photo G). These rollers are commonly used on hardwood floors and can be found at hardware stores. A special polishing machine will help speed up the processing of large flat surfaces, but you can also use a regular eccentric one. Many models are equipped with an additional polishing pad (check the manufacturer's instructions).

Photo 2: F: If the coating film is thin, it is easy to rub it through with sandpaper and expose the wood, as happened with the frame for the mirror. G: The sheep wool roller is comfortable to hold with both hands, applying pressure in the right places. Polishing compounds are sold in auto cosmetics stores and car dealerships.

Wood polishing is a process that allows you to achieve a glossy or matte shine of wood while maintaining the pattern and texture of the material. Polishing wood with your own hands is not very difficult to do, but it requires care and time. Let's figure out how to polish wood at home, and what materials and tools will be needed for this.

Not all types of wood are suitable for polishing. So, conifers are not at all suitable for polishing (with the exception of cypress), as well as other large-layer varieties. But fine-grained varieties - mahogany, etc. - are suitable for polishing. In general, the harder the wood, the better it can be polished. You can also polish soft wood, but you won’t be able to achieve a completely glossy shine.
Wood polishing involves using fine abrasives to impart a coating to the film. the required degree shine. First you need to decide what kind of shine you want to give to the wood - matte or glossy. The purchase of finishing composition and the use of abrasive materials will depend on this.

Polishing wood: choosing and applying polish

Without which it is impossible to polish wood, it is without a sufficiently thick coating film. The thin film can be wiped through during processing. Therefore, the first stage of preparation for polishing wood will be to apply several layers of varnish. Polishing varnish on wood should be carried out only after the varnish has completely dried and hardened - you cannot add shine to a soft, elastic varnish.
You also need to select suitable materials for polishing wood - abrasives. When abrasives rub against a varnished surface, small scratches remain that reflect light. Ultimately, it is the size of these scratch marks that determines the degree of gloss. The smaller the grains of abrasive, the more glossy the surface will be; the larger, the duller and more matte.
But not only the abrasive determines the degree of gloss of the coating. Thus, the finishing composition itself (wood polish) may contain silica particles, which reflect light in a special way and give the wood a matte shine. This material will no longer make the wood glossy. But when using a glossy composition, the gloss level can be reduced. Therefore, as already mentioned, decide in advance what you want the product to look like:
1) A glossy shine can be achieved by using nitro varnish or shellac to polish wood. Since these compositions are made with organic solvents, each subsequent layer will merge with the previous one. The result is one continuous layer of coating that is fairly easy to polish. Shellac for wood is easy to prepare at home: add 60 grams of crushed shellac resin to 0.5 liters of 90-95% ethyl alcohol in a ceramic or glass container. Then the vessel should be tightly closed with a lid, stirring the mixture from time to time until the shellac is completely dissolved. The mixture is then filtered.
2) For a semi-matte finish with a slight silky sheen, it is recommended to use water-based, penphthalic or polyurethane varnishes. Layers of such compositions do not merge into one, as in the previous case, but dry out as separate layers. Therefore, you need to be careful when sanding - if you overdo it, stains on the lower layers will be visible.
3) And for an absolutely matte shine, use oil-varnish compositions or oil varnishes.

Matte polishes are much better at hiding minor defects than shellac or nitro varnish used for a glossy sheen.
When polishing wood, it is advisable to sand it between coats of varnish. You can sand with stearate coated paper (for dry sanding), silicon carbide abrasive paper or waterproof silicon carbide paper (for water-based varnishes).
If you want to sand on wet, use paper without a stearate coating. To prevent the paper from becoming greasy during the grinding process, you need to use a lubricant: , kerosene, soapy water. Otherwise, coating particles may coalesce into lumps and leave marks on the coating. Lubricants act in different ways: for example, with oil the paper does not become greasy for a long time, but the work proceeds slowly; With soap, sanding progresses quickly, but it is possible to sand “down to holes.” Therefore, you need to sand very carefully.

Polishing wood: sanding polish

So, the wood polish has already been applied, it has completely dried, you can start actually polishing the wood. It is recommended to apply wax paste to the varnished surface using a non-woven swab (so that no lint remains). Pastes are used on last stage wood polishing.

Using smooth movements, spread the paste over the surface - this will smooth out dust particles and correct small irregularities, streaks and bubbles. Particularly large defects can be removed with a blade; dried dust can be removed. In principle, instead of special wax, you can use soap or white spirit, but wax will cope with this task much better.
Wax pastes are rubbed over the surface using a tampon or a piece of felt cloth. In stores, wax pastes, thanks to which you can achieve a matte shine when polishing wood, have Orange color. In order to achieve a glossy shine, use white polishing pastes.
After applying the paste, the wood is directly polished. Polished wood will look beautiful if you use sheep's wool rollers, polishing machines or eccentric ones with a special polishing pad. At the very end of polishing the wood, apply a layer of paste and polish it thoroughly - this will protect the wood from wear.
As you have seen, polishing wood is a labor-intensive process, but in principle not difficult. In addition to accuracy, it requires careful selection of wood polish, abrasives and other materials for polishing wood.

Tatyana Kuzmenko, member of the editorial board, correspondent of the online publication "AtmWood. Wood-Industrial Bulletin"

All photos from the article

The final stage of wood processing is like the finishing touch to a painting. A smooth, shiny or glossy surface begins to “sound” in a very special way. The color becomes deeper, the design appears brighter, emphasizing the perfection of the product. Careful polishing of the material will not only emphasize its beauty, but will ensure its preservation for a long time.

Chic, shine - beauty

What can and should be polished, with what and how – exciting questions for those who want or are forced to take up this difficult but exciting business. Polishing wooden products– new walls or restored countertops, performs an aesthetic and protective function ().

Pros and cons of varnish

Take a closer look, you are surrounded by many things made of wood, the treated surface of which shines or glows matte:

• decorative crafts;

• decorative cutting boards, spoons;
• walls/floors;
• furniture;
• laminate (there are also such fans).

But polishing wooden products is not always appropriate and safe, this includes:

• spoons, if they are intended for food and not decoration;
• kitchen knives - a very smooth handle is more difficult to hold, and if dropped, the decorative layer will inevitably crack;
• gun stocks (for the same reason).

In conclusion

Every day, throughout our lives, we subject things to tests - touching, hitting, putting them on scorching sun or a damp terrace. Often thanks to decorative coating it is possible to preserve/restore furniture, decorative elements or art objects for a long time.

If you want to get super gloss on your furniture, the video in this article will reveal all the secrets of this process.

One of the most common materials is wood. It is used in the manufacture of the most various products. A high degree of machinability makes it possible to obtain products of various shapes and qualities. One of the most common operations is grinding. It involves removing a thin surface layer during application. special tools and equipment. Let us consider the features of the process in more detail.

How to sand wood correctly?

Sanding wooden surfaces is a complex technological process that requires the use of special consumables and tools. Among the features we note the following points:

1. Sanding wood involves careful preparation of the surface for the operation in question. The workpiece must have exact dimensions taking into account the allowance.
2. Grinding involves the use of abrasives with different grain sizes. A common question is how to polish a complex product consisting of several planes.
3. When working, the workpiece must be securely fastened. Otherwise, the quality of processing is significantly reduced.

Wood is considered an easily processed material. That is why problems with grinding, as a rule, do not arise.

What is the best way to sand wood?

The most suitable materials can be used for wood processing various instruments. In many workshops and garages you can find almost everything you need to carry out such work. There are several tools that answer the question of how to sand wood:

1. Drill.
2. Bulgarian.
3. Belt sander.
4. Surface grinder.

The grinder has become quite widespread. She happens to be universal tool, grinding requires a special flap-type attachment. Other features of the process include the following:

1. To make the nozzle you will need pieces of sandpaper. They must be secured to a rigid base.
2. There are wheels on sale with different hardness levels, each suitable for a specific case. An example is the use of a No. 40 wheel to remove paintwork. To give smoothness, use a wheel with grain No. 120.

Another common question is how to sand wood when using a drill. Such a tool can be equipped with a special attachment, which has a pin for the cartridge in the central part. Among the features of using such a tool, we note the following points:

1. All circles have a small diameter, the largest is 125 mm.
2. Different grain sizes also allow for various types of work: from roughing to finishing.

There are several types of drill wheels. Most have a hard base, some have a rubber base. An adhesive substance, as well as various Velcro, can be used to adhere the sandpaper to the base. By increasing the disk flexibility, the processing quality can be improved.

You can also find a surface grinder on sale. This mechanism is characterized by the fact that the fixed sandpaper quickly performs a reciprocating movement. Many abrasive attachments are designed so that the sandpaper can be quickly replaced if necessary. Compared to a drill, the tool is characterized by high productivity, but it is difficult for them to process a large surface area.

The belt sander is characterized by the highest productivity. It can be used to process different wood. The main disadvantage is the high cost, since professional equipment this category costs 7,000 rubles or more. A special attachment can be used as a working belt, which can have a different grain size.

Grinding with a surface grinder and an angle grinder

Most often, a special surface grinder or sander is used for sanding wood. angle grinder grinder. Such tools are characterized by high performance and ease of use. When choosing the most suitable attachment for such devices, the following points are taken into account:

1. If you need to remove paint from wood at home, then pay attention to a coarse abrasive. It is characterized by high productivity and can quickly remove a fairly thick layer of material from wood.
2. In the case when it is necessary to remove a thin surface layer due to its high roughness, an abrasive with a medium grain size is required. This type of implementation is the most widely used.
3. Particular smoothness can be achieved by using fine-grained abrasive. The wood is cleaned to a similar quality by setting the nozzle to a high rotation speed.

When using this tool, it should be taken into account that the removal of wood is not carried out along the grain, since the nozzle used rotates in a circle around the axis of the fastening. Only some models have the function of adjusting the rotation speed; the feed can only be adjusted by eye. It is recommended to use an angle grinder only if high performance is not needed.

Special equipment is represented by a surface grinder. Among its features, the following points can be noted:

1. The nozzle performs a reciprocating movement, and the surface layer is removed along the fibers. Due to this, high quality is achieved.
2. The sandpaper moves at high speed. This indicator allows you to achieve smoothness.

Flat design grinding machine It is quite simple and, as a rule, there are no problems with its use. But when processing wood over a large area, difficulties arise. Some models have a large working surface, which improves the quality of the product.

Belt type sander

As previously noted, the grinding machine is characterized by high productivity belt type. In this case, wood sanding occurs at high speed, but the equipment used is expensive. Among the features of using a grinding machine, we note the following points:

1. The impact on the surface being processed is a round sanding belt. In this case, the grain size can be very different.
2. The design removes wood along the grain.

When using draw frame It should be taken into account that the design cannot handle corners, since the tape has low flexibility. The tool is often used for sanding floors, walls and furniture.

Manual way to sand a wooden surface

In the absence of a special tool, grinding can be done using manual processing surfaces. This requires only a special block, as well as sandpaper with a grain size suitable for the specific type of work. Among the features of this process, we note the following points:

1. The design has a special fastening element, which ensures the fastening of sandpaper.
2. Coarse sandpaper can be used to sand a product with a high roughness. This is due to the fact that small ones wear out quickly. Grinding should be carried out in several stages, due to which a high level of smoothness is achieved.
3. Manual grinding is often carried out when the product has a small area.
4. When using bars of various sizes and shapes, complex products can be processed.

The manual method has been used for quite a long period. It is worth considering that achieving the required result is possible only if you have extensive work experience.

What are the advantages of hand sanding?

If you don’t have special tools to sand the wood, you can do this by hand. To work, it is enough to have only a piece of sandpaper and a special block, which you can make with your own hands. The advantages include the following points:

1. Low cash costs.
2. You can sand any surface and hard-to-reach places.
3. Grinding can also be carried out in the absence of an energy source.

However, there are several significant drawbacks, including low performance.

About grinding pads and making them yourself

The most simple tool can be called grinding pads. They can be used to work with a wide variety of workpieces. Among the features of common pads, the following points can be highlighted:

1. Most versions consist of three main parts: the shoe and the locking mechanism and the handle. The body is used as a base; the fixing element does not allow the sandpaper to move during operation.
2. Branded pads are made from the most various forms and types. In most cases, plastic is used in the manufacture of the case, which is characterized by low weight, but also low strength.

If desired, you can make such a tool yourself. For this, an ordinary wooden block is used, to which the skin is attached using nails or screws. The handle can be attached to a block to simplify the grinding and polishing process.

During production homemade design It is worth considering what size the workpiece will be processed. If the size is too large, the working area should be larger, but problems may arise with selecting the most suitable skin.

How to choose sandpaper for working with wood?

When choosing a consumable, quite a few different points can be taken into account. Let's take an example:

1. Grain size.
2. Type of abrasive used.
3. For what purposes is the consumable material intended?

As a rule, the marking indicates the abrasive grain size according to ISO. When selecting, special tables can be used. Wood is processed with fine-grained sandpaper for a small number of defects and before polishing.
Dry or wet sanding

Dry grinding is most often carried out. This technology is easy to implement and consumables are cheap. There is also wet sanding, which involves the use of special paper.

Wet grinding and polishing involves supplying water to the processing area. Due to this, the wood softens. Today, such technology is used extremely rarely.

Grinding technology

Working with wood to achieve the required roughness involves performing several main steps. They are as follows:

1. Preparing the coating.
2. Primary roughing.
3. Fine grinding.
4. Putty of the smallest elements.
5. Final polishing and grinding with application of a finishing coating.

The final stage involves polishing. Through such actions it is possible to achieve High Quality surfaces.

Coating preparation

The preparation stage includes primary processing surfaces. Among the features of this process, we note the following points:

1. It is recommended to work with P120 and P150 abrasives before polishing. The choice is made depending on how severe the defects are.
2. The next stage is sanding with sandpaper P180 and P240. Due to this, the required roughness for coating the product with paint is achieved.

At this stage, the main thing is to remove all defects that will not allow paint coating spread evenly over the surface. With high-quality preparation of the wood, after application it finishing will look attractive.

Primary grinding

Primary removal of defects involves the use of sandpaper with a small grain size. This is due to the fact that fine sandpaper can wear out quickly.

The surface treated with coarse sandpaper is similarly prepared for fine grinding.

Fine grinding

The degree of wood roughness can be reduced by using a fine abrasive. When carrying out such work, it is worth considering the following points:

1. The skin will wear out quickly.
2. Need to provide fast movement abrasive

After fine sanding, in most cases the wood is coated with varnish or paint. Further processing carried out only when higher quality is required.

Filling gaps and small defects

The most problems arise with filling gaps and smaller defects. As a rule, such work is carried out manually. Let's call its features the following points:

1. The skin with the finest grain is selected.
2. Hard-to-reach places are treated by hand.
3. During operation, dust generated should be removed periodically.

Such work is carried out extremely often in the case of making furniture and other utensils from wood.

Final sanding

This stage is often the final one. Among its features we note:

1. All defects are removed.
2. Consumables are carefully selected depending on the roughness that needs to be achieved.
3. It is carried out using manual and automated equipment.

Final sanding allows you to obtain a very high-quality coating that can be covered with paint and varnish material.

Priming and finishing coat

Apply finishing coat can be done in different ways. Most often the process is carried out as follows:

1. With a spray gun.
2. With brushes.
3. Soft material.

Priming is carried out to smooth out unevenness; the topcoat prolongs the life of the wood.

Wood polishing

High quality can only be achieved by using special skins. Polishing of stain coatings is carried out in order to avoid applying a topcoat. Among the features of this procedure we note:

1. The finest grain sandpaper suitable for polishing is selected.
2. A special substance intended for polishing may be added.
3. The speed of movement of the abrasive during polishing should be maximum.

Due to this, the lowest roughness is achieved.

Application of polishing for finishing

Polishing is often done as a finishing touch. This technology is characterized by the following features:

1. No application required finishing material, since polishing makes the product smooth.
2. It is used when it is necessary to preserve the texture, since polishing does not deform the texture.

Today, polished products are found on sale extremely often. They look quite attractive and are comfortable to use.

Products used for polishing wood

Polishing allows you to achieve high quality. To carry it out they can use:

1. Polish.
2. Drying oil.
3. Wax paste.

All necessary materials can be purchased at a specialty store.

Polishing technology

The technology in question is very common. It can be used at home; it is presented in several main stages:

1. By grinding.
2. Applying primer.
3. Polishing.
4. Polished.

Each one should be given a lot of attention, since, for example, improper grinding will not allow for high-quality polishing.

Surface grinding

Wood surface treatment involves sanding to prepare the surface. It is carried out in several stages:

1. Sandpaper No. 46-60.
2. Sandpaper No. 80-100.
3. Abrasive paper No. 140-170.

As a result, you can get a glossy tree. It is recommended to use special equipment for this work.

Application of primer

Only after applying the polish can polishing be carried out. The technology is as follows:

1. The substance is applied with a swab, which must be well soaked.
2. Allow some time for the substance to dry on the surface. The wood is wiped with a clean rag.
3. Apply two more layers of varnish.

It takes about two days to dry the wood. After this, you can carry out final polishing.

Polishing

After applying the special substance, the following work is carried out:

1. The tampon is soaked in vegetable oil. Due to this, the degree of sliding increases.
2. The product is covered with an even layer.
3. After each stage of applying the polish, you need to wait a little.

After the last layer has dried, the wood is treated with sandpaper, the wood is wiped with a rag to remove dust and polished.

Wood products - bedside table, shelf, radio box, etc. look much more beautiful if they are finished. Wood painted with oil paint is just as rough and ugly as wood that is not finished at all.

You can, of course, cover wooden surface alcohol varnish (clear or colored), but it is much better to polish it.
Deciduous wood is best suited for polishing, especially hard wood: oak, beech, walnut, maple, birch. Oak is difficult to polish, but it beautiful drawing, which can be further shaded with tint. Birch can be easily painted and polished to resemble walnut or mahogany.
Coniferous wood is resinous and less susceptible to finishing, but, as we will see, it can also be successfully polished.
The polishing process, commonly used in carpentry, although not difficult, requires a lot of labor, time and patience. At the same time, it can be significantly simplified and the results obtained are no worse.
The surface intended for polishing should not have flakes, gaps, fiber breaks, cracks, glue drips, etc. There should be no knots on it.
First of all, the surface of the product is carefully sanded, first with coarse sandpaper (No. 46-60), and as it is smoothed, with finer sandpaper (No. 80-100). Final sanding It is produced with very fine sandpaper (No. 140-170). The surface must be sanded by moving the sandpaper wrapped around a smooth wooden block along the grain.
The result of this treatment should be a smooth, uniform matte color surface. It needs to be slightly moistened warm water and immediately wipe with a dry cloth, and then dry for 1.5-2 hours at room temperature. This operation is needed to raise the pile - the smallest fibers of wood. The pile is then removed with sandpaper No. 120-140. Sometimes moisturizing, drying and removing lint has to be repeated even twice until the surface acquires an even matte sheen with a slight gloss.
This completes the carpentry work and you can begin painting the prepared surface with transparent dyes.
"For coloring in Brown color stain paint is dissolved in hot water. The concentration of the solution is taken depending on the desired shade. The paint is applied with a cotton swab, after which the product is dried at room temperature for two to three hours.
You can also use another dye: acid chrome brown - 15 g, acetic acid- 10 ml, aluminum alum - 55 g, water - 5 l.
A reddish-brown color will be obtained if you take 20 g of walnut stain, 2 g of Ruby dye and 1 liter of water.
For mahogany finish you need to dissolve 50 g copper sulfate in 1 liter of water and 100 g of yellow blood salt also in 1 liter of water. Mix the solutions.
The dried painted surface is rubbed along the grain with a lump of horsehair or wood shavings, after which it becomes smooth and glossy.
Apply polish No. 13 or No. 14 to the painted surface using a conventional spray bottle used for spraying cologne. The polish should be applied evenly, avoiding the formation of drops and drips. At one time, you can apply five to six layers of polish, after which you should dry it for 6-8 hours at room temperature. Then the polish is applied again and dried again. This is repeated until the polish covers the surface in an even layer so that the pores of the wood are not visible.
If some areas are not sufficiently covered with polish, they can be sealed with thickened polish. It is obtained by evaporating ordinary polish in a small vessel (for example, a saucer) for 10-18 hours.
The product coated with varnish is dried for three to five days, after which its surface is cleaned with fine sandpaper.
Polishing is done with cloth rolled onto wooden block and rubbed with “GOI” paste (instead of “GOI” you can also use paste for straightening razors or oil paint"chromium oxide"), and generously moistened sunflower oil. To prevent the cloth from gathering in folds, it should be outside pinned with buttons.
The polished surface gradually acquires a mirror shine. Sometimes you need small area wipe the surface with clean cotton wool and check the quality of the polishing. When polishing is finished, the entire surface must be wiped with clean cotton wool, then with a swab moistened with sunflower oil, and then again with clean cotton wool.
Although it is usually not recommended to polish resinous wood, it can be done as follows: the surface, cleaned with glass paper and painted with a stain solution, is covered with very liquid wood glue and allowed to dry thoroughly. Then apply five to six layers using a spray gun. shellac varnish and polished as indicated above.