We build a stove for the house with our own hands. How easy it is to fold the oven with your own hands

Today, numerous manufacturers of solid fuel heating equipment offer us the widest range of metal stoves and boilers, which is replenished with more and more new models from year to year. But despite all their advantages, the owners of non-gasified houses still retain the honor of an ordinary brick stove - this is evidenced by numerous reviews on thematic forums. What is the reason for the truly popular love for this unit? Our article will not only give an answer to this question, but also acquaint the reader with various types of furnaces and the technology of building a brick type with their own hands.

Advantages and disadvantages of a brick oven in the house

So, let's try to understand why an old heating device is often more preferable than its modern high-tech counterparts. There are several reasons:

• The furnace body is an excellent heat accumulator: Due to this property, a brick furnace has to be heated much less often than a conventional steel and even cast iron furnace. Some varieties keep heat up to 24 hours, while firewood needs to be thrown into the firebox of a metal stove every 4-6 hours.
• The ability to store heat makes a brick oven more economical and less harmful to the environment than its metal “substitutes”. The fuel burns in it in the optimal mode - with the highest heat transfer and almost complete decomposition of organic molecules into water and carbon dioxide. The resulting excess heat is absorbed by the brickwork and then gradually transferred to the room.
• The outer surface of the oven does not heat up to high temperatures.

Due to this, the heat radiation generated by this unit is softer than that of hot steel stoves. In addition, on contact with hot metal, the dust contained in the air burns up, emitting harmful volatile substances (this can be recognized by the characteristic unpleasant odor). Of course, they cannot be poisoned, but they certainly do harm to health.

• A brick oven (this does not apply to stone) emits steam when heated, and when it cools, it absorbs it again. This process is called oven breathing. Thanks to him, the relative humidity of the heated air always remains at a comfortable level - within 40-60%. When operating any other heater that is not equipped with a humidifier, the relative humidity in the room decreases, that is, the air becomes dry.

The steel stove has nowhere to put the excess heat, so it either has to be heated often by adding small portions of fuel, or it must be operated in a smoldering mode. In the latter case, the operating time on one fuel tab increases, but it burns with incomplete heat transfer and with a large amount of carbon monoxide and other environmentally harmful substances - the so-called. heavy hydrocarbon radicals.

It is not difficult to make sure of this: a brick stove gives out noticeable dark smoke only during kindling, while from the chimney of a steel stove, in which fuel smolders, black smoke is constantly pouring down. Metal solid fuel heaters of long burning (full-fledged, not so-called gas-generating furnaces, only imitating gas generation) are devoid of this drawback. But they are very expensive, have a complex design and need electricity, without which a brick oven can easily do.

What can be opposed to all of the above? The cooled room with a brick oven heats up for a long time. Therefore, homeowners are still advised to acquire an additional steel convector, which heats the air in a forced mode while the stove is heated.

It should also be noted that a brick oven is a rather massive structure that should be erected along with the house. And this should ideally be done by an experienced master who still needs to be found.

Application of brick ovens

The scope of application of stoves is not limited by their main functions - heating and cooking. Here are some other tasks that such a unit can solve:

1. Smoking meat and fish.
2. Remelting scrap metal (cupola furnace).
3. Hardening and cementation of metal parts (muffle furnaces).
4. Firing of ceramic products.
5. Heating of blanks in a blacksmith shop.
6. Maintaining the required temperature and humidity conditions in the bath.

But in poultry houses, greenhouses, greenhouses and livestock farms, it is not recommended to build a brick oven: here she will have to breathe putrefactive fumes, which will lead to quick spoilage.

Varieties of structures

The above scheme can be modified in different ovens. The most common options are Dutch, Swedish, Russian and bell-type.

Dutch woman

This scheme is called channel serial. Such a furnace is very simple to manufacture and its design can be easily adjusted to any room, but the maximum efficiency for it is only 40%.

Swedish unit

A very good option for a heating and cooking stove.

A very good option for a heating and cooking stove. Its scheme is called a chamber. The chamber, the walls of which are washed by hot flue gases, is used as an oven. The duct convector is located behind the oven and occupies the entire space from floor to ceiling. This scheme has several advantages:

• Efficiency at the level of 60%;
• a heat exchanger can be installed on the side of the oven to heat water, which will be stored in a storage tank on the oven roof;
• gases enter the convector relatively cold (they burn out in the chamber part), therefore, building bricks and ordinary cement-sand mortar can be used for its construction;
• a convector with this shape warms up the room to its full height as evenly as possible;
• near a Swedish oven, you can quickly warm up and dry out if you open the oven door.

Furnaces of this type are difficult to manufacture, require very high quality materials and require a foundation.

Bell furnace

Self-regulation scheme: flue gases enter the chimney only after they have completely burned out under the hood.

Such a mechanism provides an efficiency of over 70%, but this furnace is quite complicated to manufacture (there are high loads in the design). And it can only be used for heating.

Russian stove stove

The scheme of the Russian stove, like the English fireplace, is called a flowing one. The convector is not provided in it.

The scheme of the Russian stove, like the English fireplace, is called a flowing one. The convector is not provided in it. The owner of the Russian stove wins in the following:

• The efficiency reaches 80%;
• the structure has an interesting appearance;
• such dishes of our national cuisine are becoming available for cooking, which cannot be cooked otherwise than in a Russian oven.

The Russian stove can be folded independently if you follow the drawings carefully. The slightest deviations can ruin the structure.

General device of the furnace, drawing

The design of the furnace is not particularly complicated.

In the brick massif there is a chamber with a door in which fuel is burned - a firebox (in the figure - positions 8 and 9). In its lower part there is a grate (pos. 7), on which fuel is placed and through which air enters the furnace. There is another chamber under the grate, called an ash pan or a blower, which is also closed by a door (pos. 4 and 6). Through this door, air from the outside enters the furnace and through it the ash that has fallen into it is removed from the ash pan.

Through an opening at the rear wall, flue gases enter the hailo (pos. 11) - an inclined duct directed towards the front wall. Khailo ends with a constriction - a nozzle. This is followed by a U-shaped channel called a gas convector (pos. 16).

The walls of the gas convector heat the air moving through a special channel inside the oven. This duct is called an air convector (pos. 14). A door (pos. 18) is installed at its outlet, which is closed in summer.

The chimney contains the following elements:

• cleaning door (pos. 12): through it, the flue duct is cleaned;
• a valve for setting the combustion mode (pos. 15);
• view (pos. 17): it is also a valve by means of which, after firing up, when all the carbon monoxide has already evaporated, the chimney is blocked in order to retain heat.

The thermal insulation surrounding the chimney in the area of ​​intersection of the attic floor and the roof is called cutting (pos. 23). At the intersection of the overlap, the chimney walls are made thicker. This broadening is called fluffing (item 21), it is also considered cutting.

After crossing the roof, the chimney has another widening - an otter (pos. 24). It prevents rain moisture from entering the gap between the roof and the chimney.

Other positions:

• 1 and 2 - foundation with heat and waterproofing;
• 3 - legs or trenches: for a stove with such elements, less brick is required, moreover, it has an additional heating surface from below;
• 5 - the beginning of a special air channel (strangler), through which uniform heating of the room in height is achieved;
• 10 - furnace roof;
• 13 - bend of the air convector, called overflow or pass;
• 20 - stove overlap;
• 22 - attic floor.

Preparation for construction

Necessary materials, selection

When building a furnace, the following types of bricks are used:

1. Building ceramic bricks (red). They lay out the lowest rows - the so-called underfloor part (indicated by oblique shading in the diagram), as well as that part of the chimney in which temperatures below 80 degrees are observed.
2. Furnace ceramic bricks. It is also red, but in comparison with construction it has a higher quality (brand - M150) and can withstand higher temperatures - up to 800 degrees. Outwardly, they can be distinguished by their size: the dimensions of the stove are 230x114x40 (65) mm, while for the construction one - 250x125x65 mm. The firing (furnace) part of the furnace is laid out with oven bricks, in the diagram it is indicated by hatching in a box.
3. Fireclay brick. The firebox is lined with this material from the inside. It can withstand temperatures up to 1600 degrees, but its advantages are not limited to this. Fireclay brick combines a high heat capacity (it is a very "capacious" heat accumulator) and an equally high thermal conductivity.

Note! In this case, the front brick cannot be used.

Due to the high thermal conductivity, it is impossible to lay out the fire part with fireclay bricks alone - the furnace will heat up too much and cool down very quickly due to intense heat radiation. Therefore, the outer surface must be lined with oven bricks at least half a brick.

The dimensions of the fireclay bricks are the same as those of the stove bricks. It is often recommended to determine its quality by color depth, but this method is valid only for those products for which the clay was mined in one place. If we compare chamotte clay from different deposits, then the color does not always give an objective characteristic: dark material may well be inferior in quality to light yellow.

A more reliable indicator of quality is the absence of pores and foreign particles distinguishable by the eye, as well as a fine-grained structure (in the figure, a quality sample is on the left). When tapping with a metal object, a high-quality fireclay brick should emit a sonorous and clear sound, and when dropped from a certain height, it splits into large pieces. A low-quality one will respond to tapping with dull sounds, and when dropped, it will crumble into many small fragments.

Also, during the construction of the furnace, the following solutions are used:

1. Cement-sand: those parts of the kiln, which consist of ordinary building bricks, are laid on an ordinary cement-sand mortar.
2. High quality cement-sand: this solution, consisting of rock sand and Portland cement of the M400 and higher grade, is used if an irregular furnace is supposed to be fired. The fact is that a dried clay solution, with insufficient heating, can become saturated with moisture and turn sour again. That is why, in areas with temperatures below 200-250 degrees (on the diagram - oblique shading with filling), instead of clay, a high-quality cement-sand mortar based on rock sand is used. We emphasize that this should be done only if the oven will often be idle during the cold season.
3. Clay solution. This solution also requires mountain sand. It is characterized by the absence of organic residues, due to which the seams would quickly crumble. But now it is not necessary to buy expensive mountain sand: excellent quality solutions are obtained on the basis of sand from ground ceramic or fireclay bricks.
4. High-quality clay is more expensive than sand, so they try to minimize its amount in the solution.

To determine the smallest required amount of this material, subject to the use of sand from ground bricks, proceed as follows:

• clay is soaked for 24 hours, then mixed with water until it looks like plasticine or thick dough;
• dividing the clay into portions, prepare 5 solution options: with the addition of 10% sand, 25, 50, 75 and 100% (by volume);
• after 4 hours of drying, each portion of the solution is rolled into a cylinder 30 cm long and 10–15 mm in diameter. Each cylinder should be wrapped around a 50mm blank.

We analyze the result: a solution without cracks or with small cracks in the surface layer itself is suitable for any task; with a crack depth of 1–2 mm, the solution is considered suitable for masonry with a temperature of no more than 300 degrees; with deeper cracks, the solution is considered unusable.

Tool

In addition to the standard set of tools for masonry work, which includes:

• trowel;
• hammer pick;
• grooving for seams;
• mortar shovel.

The stove-maker must have a rake-order. It has a section of 5x5 cm, staples for fastening in the seams and marks corresponding to the position of the individual rows. Having installed 4 orders at the corners, it will be easy to ensure the verticality of the masonry and the equality of the width of the seams between the rows.

Calculation of a simple heater

The method for calculating the furnace is extremely complex and requires a lot of experience, but there is a simplified version proposed by I. V. Kuznetsov. It demonstrates a fairly accurate result, provided that the outside of the house is well insulated. For 1 m 2 of the surface area of ​​the furnace, the following heat transfer values ​​are taken:

• under normal conditions: 0.5 kW;
• in severe frosts, when the stove is heated especially intensively (no more than 2 weeks): 0.76 kW.

Thus, a furnace with a height of 2.5 m and dimensions in terms of 1.5x1.5 m, having a surface area of ​​17.5 m 2, will generate 8.5 kW in the normal mode, and 13.3 kW in the intensive mode. This performance will be sufficient for a house with an area of ​​80–100 m 2.

The calculation of the firebox is also very complicated, but today it is not necessary. Instead of designing and manufacturing a homemade firebox, it is better to buy a ready-made one in the store: it is already calculated according to all the rules and will be cheaper.

When choosing a firebox, consider the following:

1. The size of the firebox and the location of the fasteners must correspond to the size of the brick used.
2. For a stove that is used from time to time, you can purchase a welded sheet steel firebox; for permanent use, you only need to buy a cast iron firebox.
3. The depth of the ash shaft (the lower narrowing of the furnace) should be one third of the height of the combustion chamber if most of the time the stove will be fired with coal or peat, and one fifth if wood fuel or pellets are the main fuel.

The cross-section of chimneys that meet standard requirements (straight vertical passage, head height above the grate is from 4 to 12 m) is selected according to the recommendations specified in SNiP, depending on the furnace power:

• with heat transfer up to 3.5 kW: 140x140 mm;
• from 3.5 to 5.2 kW: 140x200 mm;
• from 5.2 to 7.2 kW: 140x270 mm;
• from 7.2 to 10.5 kW: 200x200 mm;
• from 10.5 to 14 kW: 200x270 mm.

It is impossible to accurately calculate the power of the stove, therefore, sometimes there may be a discrepancy between the adopted section of the chimney and the performance of the unit - the stove begins to smoke. In this case, it is enough to simply increase the height of the chimney by 0.25–0.5 m.

Empirical formulas have been developed to determine the number of bricks, but they give an error of up to 15%. The only way to do an accurate calculation by hand is to simply count the bricks in order, which will only take about an hour. A more modern option is to simulate the oven in one of the computer programs intended for this. The system itself will draw up a specification, which will indicate the exact number of whole bricks, as well as cut, shaped, etc.

Choosing a place, schemes

The way the stove is installed depends on the size of the house and the location of the various rooms in it. Here is an option for a small country house:

In the cold season, such a stove will heat the entire building with high quality, and in the summer, with an open window, you can cook on it quite comfortably.

In a large house with permanent residence, the stove can be positioned as follows:

In this version, the fireplace stove installed in the living room is equipped with a purchased cast iron firebox with a heat-resistant glass door.

And thus, a brick oven can be installed in an economy class dwelling:

When considering the location of the oven, consider the following:

1. A structure with more than 500 bricks must have its own foundation, which cannot be part of the foundation of the house.
2. The chimney must not come into contact with attic floor beams and roof rafters. It should be borne in mind that in the intersection zone of the attic floor, it has a broadening, called fluff.
3. The minimum distance from the pipe to the ridge of the roof is 1.5 m.

There are exceptions to the first rule:

1. The hob with a low and wide body, equipped with a heat shield, can be installed without a foundation if the floor is able to withstand a load of at least 250 kg / m 2.
2. In a house with a strip sectional foundation, a stove with a volume of up to 1000 bricks can be erected at the intersection of the foundations of the inner walls (including T-shaped ones). In this case, the minimum distance from the furnace foundation to the building foundation strips is 1.2 m.
3. A small Russian stove is allowed to be erected on a base of a wooden beam with a section of 150x150 mm (the so-called guardianship), resting on the ground or rubble laying of the building foundation.

Preparatory work consists in the construction of the foundation and the laying of heat and waterproofing. If the furnace is equipped with trenches, a strip foundation is built under it, you can use rubble. An ordinary stove (without trenches) is erected on a monolithic reinforced concrete slab. On each side, the foundation must protrude at least 50 mm beyond the outline of the furnace.

The insulating "pie" is typed in the following sequence:

• roofing material is laid on the foundation in 2 or 3 layers;
• basalt cardboard 4–6 mm thick or the same sheet of asbestos is placed on top;
• then put a sheet of roofing iron;
• it remains to lay the last layer - basalt cardboard or felt impregnated with highly diluted masonry mortar.

Laying can only be started after the top layer has dried to the roof gland.

Before the start of masonry work, a fireproof covering must be built on the floor in front of the future furnace, which is usually a sheet of roofing iron laid on a lining of asbestos or basalt cardboard. One edge of the sheet is pressed by the first row of bricks, the rest are bent and nailed to the floor. The front edge of such a coating should be at least 300 mm away from the oven, while its side edges should extend beyond the oven by 150 mm on each side.

Step-by-step instruction

Masonry rules in accordance with the order

The stove is placed in accordance with the order (see fig.).

Stick to the following rules:

1. Seams between bricks in the arch of the firebox and the underfloor part can be up to 13 mm wide, in other cases - 3 mm. Deviations are allowed: upwards - up to a width of 5 mm, downwards - up to 2 mm.
2. It is impossible to bandage the seams between ceramic and fireclay masonry - these materials differ greatly in thermal expansion. For the same reason, the seams in such areas, as well as around metal or concrete elements, are given a maximum thickness (5 mm).
3. The laying must be carried out with the bandaging of the seams, that is, each seam must be overlapped by a neighboring brick at least a quarter of its (brick) length.
4. The layout of each row begins with corner bricks, the position of which is checked with a level and a plumb line. So that the verticality does not have to be checked every time, the cords are pulled strictly vertically along the corners of the furnace (for this you need to hammer nails into the ceiling and into the seams between the bricks) and then they are guided by them.
5. Doors and dampers are fixed in the masonry by means of knitting wire laid in the seams, or by means of clamps made of steel strip 25x2 mm. The second option is for the firebox door (especially its upper part), oven and heat dampers: here the wire will quickly burn out.

In the fluff and otter, only the outer size of the chimney increases, the inner section remains unchanged. The thickness of the walls increases gradually, for which plates cut from bricks are added to the masonry. The inner surface of the chimney must be plastered.

How to make a heating unit with your own hands

The erection of the furnace body begins from the underfloor part.

1. In the absence of sufficient experience, the rows should first be laid out without mortar and well leveled, and only then the row should be shifted to the solution. Also, novice craftsmen are recommended to lay out the underfloor part of the furnace in the formwork.
2. After laying the 3rd row, a blower door is installed on it.
3. It must be leveled. To seal the gap between the brick and the frame, the latter is wrapped with an asbestos cord.
4. Next, lay out the fire part, for which they use stove and fireclay bricks.
5. Before laying, the blocks are cleaned from dust with a brush. Ceramic brick must be moistened by dropping it into a container with water, then shaken off. Wetting fireclay bricks is not only not required, but also not allowed. Many stove-makers apply the solution by hand, since it is not easy to lay a thin layer of 3 mm with a trowel. The brick must be immediately laid down correctly, without straightening or tapping. If it was not possible to do this the first time, the operation must be repeated, having previously removed the mortar smeared on the brick - it can no longer be used.
6. After laying several more rows, the ash pan chamber is covered with a grate. It should lie on fireclay bricks, in which the corresponding grooves are cut.
7. The combustion door is installed in the same order in which the blower door was installed.
8. Lay out the rows of the furnace part. If a low slab is being erected, then the row of bricks above the furnace door must be slightly moved back so that they are not overturned by a heavy cast-iron sheet when it is opened.
9. The combustion chamber is covered with a hob or vault (in purely heating stoves). Due to the significant difference in thermal expansion between cast iron and clay, the slab cannot be laid on the mortar - an asbestos cord must be placed under it.
10. Further, they continue laying the stove in accordance with the order, making out the gas convection system. In order for the soot to collect at the bottom of the gas convector, from where it can be easily removed, the height of the lower interchannel passages (overflows) must be 30-50% higher than the upper ones (they are called passes). The edges of the passes need to be rounded off.

Having finished the construction of the furnace body, they proceed to the construction of the chimney.

Features of the formation of the arch

There are two types of vaults:

• flat: vaults of this type are laid out of shaped bricks in the same way, but instead of a circle, a flat pallet is used. The flat vault has one feature: it must be perfectly symmetrical, otherwise it will crumble very soon. Therefore, even stove-makers with sufficient experience build this part of the stove using purchased shaped bricks and the same pallets;
• semicircular (arched).

The latter are laid out using a template, also called a circle:

1. They begin with the installation on the solution of the extreme support blocks - thrust bearings, which are pre-cut according to the drawing of the arch, made in full size.
2. After the solution has dried, a circle is installed and the wings of the arch are laid out.
3. The castle stones are driven in with a log or a wooden hammer, after applying a thick layer of mortar to the installation site. At the same time, they monitor how the solution is squeezed out of the wing masonry: if the masonry was performed without disturbances, this process will take place evenly throughout the arch.

The circle should be removed only after the solution has completely dried.

The angle between the axes of adjacent bricks in a semicircular vault should not exceed 17 degrees. With standard block sizes, the seam between them inside (from the side of the firebox) should have a width of 2 mm, and outside - 13 mm.

Rules and nuances of operation

For a stove to be economical, it must be maintained in good condition. A crack with a width of only 2 mm in the area of ​​the valve will provide a heat loss of 10% due to the uncontrolled flow of air through it.

You also need to heat the stove correctly. With a strongly open blower, from 15 to 20% of the heat can fly into the pipe, and if the furnace door is open during the combustion of the fuel, then all 40%.

The firewood used to heat the stove must be dry. To do this, they need to be prepared ahead of time. Raw wood gives less heat, and in addition, due to the abundance of moisture in the chimney, a large amount of acid condensate is formed, which intensively destroys the brick walls.

In order for the oven to warm up evenly, the thickness of the logs should be the same - about 8-10 cm.

Firewood is laid in rows or in a cage, so that a gap of 10 mm remains between them. A distance of at least 20 mm should remain from the top of the fuel tab to the top of the firebox, even better if the firebox is 2/3 full.

The main mass of fuel is ignited with a torch, paper, etc. It is prohibited to use acetone, kerosene or gasoline.

After kindling, you need to close the view so that the heat does not erode through the chimney.

When adjusting the draft during kindling, you need to be guided by the color of the flame. The optimal combustion mode is characterized by the yellow color of the fire; if it turns white, air is supplied in excess and a significant part of the heat is thrown into the chimney; red color indicates a lack of air - the fuel does not burn completely, and a large amount of harmful substances is emitted into the atmosphere.

Cleaning (including from soot)

The stove is usually cleaned and repaired in the summer, while in the winter it will be necessary to clean the chimney 2-3 times. Soot is an excellent heat insulator and a large amount of soot will make the stove less efficient.

Ash must be removed from the grate before each firebox.

The draft in the furnace, and hence the mode of its operation, is regulated by a view, a latch and a blower door. Therefore, the state of these devices must be constantly monitored. Any malfunction or wear should be immediately repaired or replaced.

Video: how to fold the oven with your own hands

Whichever version of the brick oven you choose, it will work effectively only in a well-insulated house. Otherwise, there will be no friendship between them.

Stove heating is not going to outlive itself at all. Brick wood stoves continue to be built not only by the owners of village houses, but also by the owners of large country cottages. Another question is how much it costs to hire a master stove-maker to build and buy the necessary materials. The only way to save money is to fold a brick oven with your own hands, having studied the construction technology according to the schemes - orders presented later in the article. Of course, the construction of a Russian or two-bell stove with a stove bench is beyond the power of a beginner, but you will be able to overcome a heat source of a simple design.

Simple Brick Kiln Projects

The first thing to worry about is choosing a home heater project that can meet your heat needs. We offer 3 options for simple designs that have been proven in work by many years of practice:

• channel-type heating stove, the so-called Dutch;
• a hob with an oven and a tank connected to water heating or hot water supply;
• Swedish - a combined heater with a niche for drying things.

Duct stove - Dutch

It is quite simple to fold the Dutch woman shown in the picture on your own. It is notable for its small dimensions in plan, but it can be placed in height indefinitely, while the internal vertical channels are lengthened. This allows you to heat a two- or three-story small house or a summer cottage, if you build a Dutch woman with a passage through the floors. The duct stove successfully burns firewood of various qualities and heats the premises satisfactorily, although you cannot call it economical.

Reference. The Dutch woman quickly warms up, and after fading it does not give off heat for long, the duration of burning from one bookmark also leaves much to be desired. Its strong point is its ease of construction and low demand for fuel.

The stove shown in the photo is a convenient option for a country house or a small dwelling in a village, including for use in the summer. A tank installed on the path of hot flue gases is capable of supplying hot water for the heating system or for household needs.

Swedish brick stoves combine the advantages of the two previous heaters. In addition, they are economical, give off accumulated heat for a long time and work equally well on wood and coal. But the masonry of a Swede is not an example more complicated than a hob, plus more bricks and purchased iron fittings are required.

Swedish oven built between the walls

Drawings and orders of stoves

Furnace ordering - Dutch

Sectional diagram of a Dutch woman

The order of laying the hob

Schematic device of the plate
Ordering the Swedish oven

Any brick oven transfers heat to the room in two ways: using infrared radiation from hot walls and through heating the air circulating in the room (convection). Hence the conclusion: for effective heating, it is necessary that the heater, or at least part of it, be in a heated room. Considering this requirement, we will give some tips for choosing a place for a building in a rural house and in the country:

1. If you need to heat one large room, then it is better to lay the stove in the middle, with a slight displacement towards the outer wall, where the cold comes from.
2. For heating 2-4 adjacent rooms, the structure must be placed in the center of the building, dismantling part of the interior partitions.
3. Suppose there are 1-2 small rooms adjacent to the hall. There you can carry out water heating with radiators and a circulation pump connected to a stove heat exchanger or a tank.
4. Do not plan to install the heater close to outside walls. It makes no sense to warm them up, some of the heat will simply go out into the street.
5. The hob and oven should go into the kitchen, and the rough surface should go into the living room or bedroom.

Advice. When placing the heater in the center of a private house, make sure that the future chimney does not fall into the ridge of the roof. It is better to displace the structure by 20-40 cm and bring the pipe through one of the roof slopes.

Partitions and floors made of wood or other combustible building material, located closer than 500 mm from the furnace body, must subsequently be protected with metal sheets. It is advisable to lay a layer of basalt cardboard under them. In a stone house, these precautions apply only to wooden roofing elements located next to the chimney.

Procurement of materials and components

The main building material from which a do-it-yourself stove is built is red ceramic brick. It must be of high quality and necessarily full-bodied, stones with voids inside are not used in the oven business, except for the construction of outdoor grills and barbecues.

Advice. The Dutch woman is so undemanding to the quality of materials that she can be made from used red bricks. Only after the completion of the masonry, it will have to be refined, for example, overlaid with tiles or come up with a beautiful tiled decor.

To fold a small-sized Dutch oven, you need to prepare the following materials and accessories:

• red fired bricks - at least 390 pcs.;
• grate grate 25 x 25 cm;
• loading door 25 x 21 cm;
• small doors for cleaning and blowing 14 x 14 cm;
• metal flap 13 x 13 cm.

Note. As mentioned in the first section, the Dutch woman can be laid out in any required height. The specified number of bricks will be enough for construction in a one-story private house.

List of accessories and building materials for the hob:

• solid ceramic bricks - 190 pcs.;
• grate 25 x 5 cm;
• a two-burner cast-iron stove measuring 53 x 18 cm with discs;
• fuel chamber door 25 x 21 cm;
• metal tank - a boiler with dimensions of 35 x 45 x 15 cm;
• oven 32 x 27 x 40 cm;
• cleaning doors 13 x 14 cm - 2 pcs .;
• chimney valve;
• steel corner 30 x 30 x 4 mm - 4 m.

To save money, you can take over the manufacture of a tank for heating water - simply weld it from metal with a thickness of 3, or better, 4 mm. There is another option: instead of a tank, place a coil, welded with your own hands from a steel pipe with a diameter of 25-32 mm, inside the furnace. But we must remember that in such a water circuit it is required to organize constant circulation using a pump, otherwise the metal will quickly burn out.

To build a Swedish heating and cooking stove, you will need the same set of materials as for the stove. Just take a larger corner - 50 x 50 mm, buy a 40 x 4 mm steel strip and prepare a refractory (fireclay) brick for the firebox masonry. To install the hardware, look for a soft steel wire with a diameter of up to 2 mm.

Masonry mortar advice. The preparation of natural clay, on which experienced stove-makers lay bricks, is a long and difficult process. Therefore, beginners are advised to use ready-made clay-sand mixtures for the construction of stoves that are available on the market.

Laying the foundation

Before folding the stove, a solid base must be prepared. The structure is rather heavy, therefore it is unacceptable to place it directly on the floors, even those filled with cement screed. The foundation of the stove is an isolated structure, not in contact with the base of the building. If you are building a brick heater close to walls or erecting a corner fireplace, you need to indent at least 150 mm so that a minimum clearance of 10 cm remains between the foundations.

If the floors in the house are covered with a screed, then it is recommended to follow the following step-by-step instructions for the construction of the stove foundation:

1. Dismantle the screed section and dig a pit protruding beyond the dimensions of the furnace by 50 mm in each direction. The depth depends on the thickness of the upper layer of collapsing soil.
2. Fill in a 100 mm high sand pad and tamp it down. Fill the hole to the top with rubble stone or broken brick, then fill it with liquid cement mortar.
3. After hardening, lay a waterproofing layer of roofing material and install the formwork protruding above the screed, as shown in the drawing.
4. Prepare the concrete and pour the foundation slab. For strength, you can lay a reinforcing mesh there.

After 3 weeks (the time of complete hardening of the concrete mixture), put a sheet of roofing steel on the finished base, and on top - felt soaked in clay mortar or basalt cardboard. Then you can start laying the oven body.

Base arrangement for wooden floors

To properly lay the foundation of the stove under wooden floors, use the same algorithm, but instead of a concrete slab, lay out the walls of red brick (you can use it) to the level of the floor covering. Fill the void inside with rubble or rubble and concrete from above. Further - a sheet of metal, clay-soaked felt and a continuous first row of oven masonry. You can get more information on the topic by watching the video

Despite the fact that very many today are equipped with one or another heating system, brick heating structures do not lose their popularity. On the contrary, engineers and craftsmen are developing more and more new models of stoves, more compact, including various functions. Indeed, stove heating will never be superfluous for a private house, as it can help out the owners in different situations. For example, in autumn or spring, when the nights are cold, but it seems to be too early to turn on the autonomous heating, a heated stove will create a cozy atmosphere in the rooms and relieve them of excessive humidity. The stove will help maintain an optimally favorable atmosphere in the house and a temperature balance that is comfortable for a person.

Therefore, the search query on how to fold the stove with your own hands, the drawings of which will tell in detail about the correct sequence of masonry work, does not leave the Internet. Today, even those people who have no stove-maker experience at all show a desire to try their hand at this craft. If a decision is made to install a stove in the house on their own, then beginners are advised to choose a simple version of this structure with an understandable order.

In addition to the availability of the structure, when choosing, you should pay attention to its heat capacity, that is, for heating what area it is designed for. It is important to take into account the functionality of the structure and decide what you would like to get from it.

Varieties of brick ovens

There are several basic types of stoves - some of them perform only one main task - it is heating the house, others are used only for cooking, and still others include several functions in their “set of possibilities”. Therefore, in order to determine the desired model, you need to know what each of the varieties is.

• the structure is able not only to heat one or two rooms, but also to help prepare food and boil water. If the model is equipped with an oven and a drying niche, then it becomes possible to bake bread and dry vegetables and fruits for the winter.

The heating and cooking stove is often built into the wall or acts as a wall itself - for this, it is turned with the stove and firebox towards the kitchen, and the back wall into the living area of ​​the house. Two problems can be solved at once - heating the premises and getting the possibility of cooking in a separate room.

If the structure is additionally equipped with a fireplace, then the stove will work not only as a functional structure, but will also become a decorative decoration of the house.

• The heating type of stoves is designed only for heating the premises of the house. Some models have not only a combustion chamber, but also a fireplace. Thus, the oven can operate in two modes - when only one of the functions is used, or they are both involved at the same time. Most often, heating stoves are built into the wall between rooms or are installed in the middle of one large hall, dividing it into zones.

A similar structure is being built both for the main heating of the house and as an additional one, which is used in the spring and autumn to maintain normal temperature and humidity in the rooms. Heating stoves are usually installed when the kitchen has already realized its own possibility of cooking, or in a house with a large total area, where several stoves are being erected that perform various functions.

At a summer cottage in a small house, it is better to install a multifunctional structure that can help out in several situations at once.

• The cooking stove is built in the kitchen, and its design is designed specifically for fast food preparation. However, this function does not deprive it of its heating capabilities, since its entire body, back wall and cast-iron stove warm up well, giving off heat to the room.

The main function of this stove is cooking.

The cooking stove is usually compact, so it is perfect for installing it in a country house or in a small kitchen of a private house.

Having such a compact but functional unit, you can eliminate the risk of freezing or being left without dinner and hot tea, even if the electricity and gas supply is cut off.

Many different models of all the listed types of furnaces have been developed. They can be quite miniature and take up a large area. Therefore, stopping at one of the models, before stocking up on materials for its construction, you need to measure and draw its base on the floor of the room in which it is planned to be installed. Thus, it will be possible to visually determine how much free space will remain in the room.

How to choose the right place to install the oven?

In order for the stove to work efficiently and to transfer heat to the premises of the house as much as possible, as well as to be fireproof, it is necessary to choose the correct location for it.

It is especially important to think over this point in the event that the stove is built into a finished building, since the chimney must pass between the ceiling beams, and not accidentally stumble upon them, therefore the installation option must be calculated as accurately as possible.

A stove brick structure can be installed in different places in a room or between two rooms. Which place is better to choose will be discussed later.

• To get the maximum effect from the stove, you should not install it near the outer wall of the building, as it will cool down quickly and is unlikely to be able to heat more than one room.
• Some models of stoves are installed in the center of the room or with an offset from it to one side or the other. This location is chosen if the room needs to be divided into separate zones. Moreover, different sides of the stove structure can have a different decorative finish, made in a style corresponding to the design of a specific area of ​​the room.
• Quite often, the stove is built into the wall between two or even three rooms, which makes it possible to use the generated heat as efficiently as possible. In this case, for the purpose of fire safety, it is very important to provide for reliable insulation of walls, ceiling and attic floor in the place of passage
• When choosing an installation site, it is necessary to provide for the fact that each side of the foundation for the furnace should be 100 ÷ 150 mm larger than the base of the furnace itself.
• In order to accurately determine the size of the base and the height of the oven, it is recommended to always select the model to which the ordering diagram is attached.

Having chosen the place for its installation, you can purchase all the necessary materials and prepare the necessary tools. The amount of materials will depend on the size and functionality of the oven model, and the masonry tools are always the same.

Tools required for masonry work

For work, you will need to prepare a very "solid" set of tools

From tools for laying bricks and pouring the foundation you will need:

• Rule - This tool is used to level the surface of a concrete poured foundation.
• A pick hammer is needed to split and cut bricks.
• Veselka is a wooden spatula used for grinding clay and lime mortar.
• The kiln hammer is used to split bricks and remove dried mortar that has protruded outside the masonry.
• A broom made of bast is designed to clean the internal channels of the furnace from sand and solution that has got into them.
• A lead scribe is needed for markings in the event that the stove is finished with tiles.
• The building level is necessary to control the evenness of the rows and the surface of the walls.
• Scribe - a rod used for markings.
• A plumb line is a cord with a load, designed to check the verticality of the output surfaces.
• Building angle with a ruler to check that the outside and inside corners are correct, as they must be perfectly straight.
• Pliers are used to bend and nibble the wire to fix the cast iron elements of the furnace in the seams of the masonry.
• Rasp - This tool is used to remove sagging and lapping lumps in dry masonry.
• The chisel is used for splitting bricks and parsing old masonry.
• A rubber hammer is required to level the brick laid on the mortar by tapping.
• (trowels) of different sizes are used to apply mortar when laying bricks and remove the mixture that has protruded from the seams.
• Joining - a tool for leveling the mortar in the joints of the masonry. It is used in the event that the masonry is made "for joining", without further facing.
• Manual ramming is required to compact the soil and backfill layers into the foundation pit.
• Containers for mixing solution and clean water.
• Sieve with a metal mesh for sifting sand.

• A stand for the convenience of working at a height, called "goats". The surface of this device is of sufficient size not only for comfortable movement of the master, but also for installing a container filled with solution.

Arrangement of the foundation for a brick stove

The foundation for the furnace is usually prepared together with the foundation of the house, but they should not contact each other in any way, and even more so - be combined into a single structure. New foundations tend to shrink, which can deform one of them, and this will pull damage to the other. That is why they should be installed necessarily separately from each other.

In the case of erecting a stove in an already built house with a wooden floor, a fairly large-scale work will have to be done. In the place where the stove will be installed, the floor boards will have to be removed by cutting a hole to the size of the future foundation.

If the foundation under the house is monolithic, and the chosen model of the stove is not too massive, then the structure can be erected on it, having previously laid a waterproofing material on the installation site.

The foundation should have the shape of the base of the furnace, however, as mentioned above, each of its sides is made larger than the side of the furnace by 100 ÷ 150 mm.

• If the floor in the house is wooden, markings are made on it, along which the boards will be cut.
• Then, a foundation pit is dug in the subfloor soil according to the shape of the future foundation, the depth of which can vary from 450 to 700 mm, depending on the composition of the soil.
• The bottom of the pit is compacted, and its walls are lined with plastic wrap or roofing felt.

• Then, a sand cushion with a thickness of 100 ÷ 150 mm is laid on the bottom, depending on the depth of the pit, and is well compacted using a manual rammer.
• The next layer, on top of the sand, is filled with crushed stone, which, if possible, is also compacted. This layer can be from 150 to 200 mm.
• Further, along the perimeter of the pit, a wooden formwork in the form of a box is installed. Moreover, polyethylene or roofing material remains inside it, and then fixed to the walls with a stapler and staples. This waterproof material will keep the mortar poured into the formwork, preventing moisture from leaving it, which will allow the slab to dry and harden evenly.
• The foundation should have a height of about 250 mm below the level of the "clean" floor, that is, two rows of bricks will need to be placed on the finished base so that it rises flush with the floor surface.
• Some craftsmen, in order to save bricks, on the contrary, raise the foundation above the floor by 80 ÷ 100 mm. The convenience of such a solution also lies in the simpler joining of the side walls of the foundation with the surface of the floor covering.
• The next step into the formwork, to its entire height, is a reinforcing grid made of steel reinforcement with a thickness of 4 ÷ 6 mm. The rods are connected with each other by wire twists.
• Further, in the lower part of the formwork, to a thickness of 250 ÷ 300 mm, you can pour a coarse concrete solution mixed from cement and gravel in proportions of 1: 3, or cement, crushed stone of the middle fraction with the addition of sand, in a ratio of 1: 2: 1. But, in principle, you can also use ordinary concrete mortar made of sand and cement.
• If a coarse mixture is poured down, then immediately, without waiting for it to set, a thinly mixed solution is laid out on top.
• The poured one is leveled by the rule along the upper edges of the formwork boards, after which it is recommended to lay and sink a reinforcing mesh with 50 mm cells into the mortar by 15 ÷ 20 mm.

• The surface of the foundation is leveled again, and, if necessary, concrete mortar is added to the formwork, on top of the mesh.
• Further, the foundation is left to harden and gain strength - this process will take from three weeks to a month, depending on the thickness of the layers of the poured solution. To make the concrete more durable, it is recommended to spray it with water every day for the first week, starting from the second day.
• On top of the frozen foundation, waterproofing is laid, consisting of two or three sheets of roofing material, which are stacked one on top of the other.

• To start laying the first row, it is recommended to make markings on the waterproofing material, indicating the location of the furnace base. Thanks to the outlined perimeter of the base, it will be much easier to install the first row of bricks and keep the sides and corners even.

After these preparatory work, you can move on to masonry.

Dry masonry

Even experienced craftsmen, starting the laying of a previously unfamiliar structure, first produce it dry, that is, without mortar. This process helps to understand the intricacies of the internal channels of the oven and not make mistakes during the main masonry. The entire structure rises dry, and each of the rows must be laid out in accordance with the order applied to the furnace model.

When performing dry masonry, it is necessary to observe the thickness of the horizontal and vertical rows. To keep this parameter the same throughout the entire masonry, you can use slats 5 mm thick. Of course, it will be difficult to measure vertical seams in small pieces of slats when laying dry, so they will have to be determined visually, but for horizontal seams, slats must be used. By applying them, after laying out the last row of the structure, you can see the real height of the furnace.

As an example of the use of rails, you can consider this photo.

It is especially important to adhere to a uniform thickness of the seams if the masonry is made for joining and will not be finished with additional decorative materials in the future.

When laying dry, it is important to understand the configuration of the channel through which the smoke will leave the firebox and rise to the chimney. If, when laying out this passage, a mistake is made, then part or even the entire structure of the furnace will have to be shifted, since a back draft may form, and the smoke will go to the room during kindling.

Having raised the stove dry before laying the chimney, the structure is disassembled. Moreover, if not only whole, but also their small fragments were used in the rows, then during disassembly each of the rows can be folded in a separate pile, putting the number of the row on one of the bricks. Sometimes, in addition, the number of the brick is put down in each of the rows. Such a system will speed up the work, since all the material will be fitted and laid out in the right order, and all that remains is to soak it one by one and put it in the rows of the oven, but already in the solution.

Carrying out the main laying, two strips are installed on the edges of the previous row, between which a solution with a thickness of 60 ÷ 70 mm is applied. Then a brick of the top row is placed on it, leveled and tapped until it rests against the slats. It is necessary to have such calibration devices for three rows, since it is possible to pull it out of the seam only after the mortar has set. So, having laid out three rows, the slats are pulled from the lowest seam, cleaned and placed on the fourth - and so on. If you are not sure that the vertical seams will turn out to be the same thickness, you can also prepare a short strip for them, which will be rearranged into the next seam immediately after aligning two adjacent bricks.

After pulling out the calibration strips from the seam, a sufficiently deep gap will remain between the bricks. It is filled with a solution, the excess of which is removed with a trowel, and then put in order with the help of jointing.

Processing of seams "for joining"

If the calibration strips were laid on both edges of the brick, then on the inner side of the wall there will also be recesses between the seams. They also need to be carefully repaired, since the seams must be airtight, filled with mortar over the entire width of the brick.

It is very important, when laying on a mortar, to check each of the laid rows with a building level so that the entire structure does not skew.

Simple accessories such as gauge strips will help you lay the masonry neatly with the same joint width. Therefore, the entire surface of the oven will look as if the design was made by a professional master.

These nuances will help to simplify the process of erecting a furnace structure, to avoid mistakes that can lead to the need to redo all the work.

Schemes for the construction of brick ovens

Yu. Proskurin's stove with heating and cooking functions and a drying chamber

The model, developed by engineer Yu. Proskurin, can be called one of the simplest designs of heating and cooking stoves, which even a novice master can easily master. Despite the compact size of the structure, the stove is capable of performing all the functions necessary for a small house, since it is equipped with a hob and a drying chamber, which, if desired, can be replaced with a hot water tank.

Such a stove is capable of heating one or two rooms with a total area of ​​17 ÷ 20 m², therefore it can be built into the wall between the kitchen and one of the small rooms of the house. At the same time, it, of course, must be oriented in such a way that the structure is turned by the stove towards the kitchen area.

The dimensions of this heating structure, without the height of the chimney, are 750 × 630 × 2070 mm. The stove has two operating modes - winter and summer, which allows you to use only the hob in the warm season, without unnecessary heating of the whole house. Heat transfer from the furnace with its full firing is 1700 kcal / h.

For the construction of this heating structure, the following materials will be required:

Name of materials and elements	Quantity (pcs.)	Element dimensions (mm)
Red brick M-200 (excluding pipe laying)	281 ÷ 285	250 × 120 × 65
Fireclay refractory brick, grade Ш-8	82 ÷ 85	250 × 120 × 65
Furnace door	1	210 × 250
Doors for cleaning channels	2	140 × 140
Blower door	1	140 × 250
Summer gate valve for chimney	1	130 × 130
Firebox shutter	1	130 × 130
Hob latch	1	130 × 130
Grate	1	200 × 300
Single-burner hob	1	410 × 340
Steel strip	1	40 × 260 × 5
	1	40 × 350 × 5
	1	40 × 360 × 5
Steel corner	1	40 × 40 × 635
	3	40 × 40 × 510
	4	40 × 40 × 350
Roofing iron	1	380 × 310
Pre-furnace metal sheet	1	500 × 700

To fill the foundation, it will be necessary to prepare cement, crushed stone, sand, gravel, roofing material, reinforcing bar or steel wire 5 ÷ 6 mm thick. If it is decided to replace the drying chamber with a hot water tank, you will have to purchase or manufacture it as well.

In order for the work to be successful, it is strongly recommended to study the order very carefully before starting it, and during the laying process, keep this scheme always at hand.

In this illustration, this oven is schematically represented in several sections. Here you can clearly see how the chimney channels pass inside the structure, trace the movement of smoke from the firebox to the chimney.

Illustration (ordering)	Brief description of the performed operation
	The first row is solid, it is laid out according to the configuration shown in the diagram. The row should be perfectly even, since the reliability and durability of the entire structure will depend on its correct masonry. The row consists of 15 bricks.
	Second row. At this stage, the shape of the ash pan (blowing chamber) and the bottom of the two channels are laid, which will run vertically. Laying out a row, openings are left for installing the doors of the blower and cleaning chambers. They are installed on the same row. The row is laid out with 13 bricks.
	In the cast-iron doors, for their fastening in the masonry, special ears are provided, into which the prepared pieces of wire are inserted. Further, their ends are twisted together and embedded in the seams between the rows of side walls. To prevent the door from moving from the installation site until it is fully fixed, it is temporarily propped up with bricks.
	The third row is laid out according to the scheme. In it, the walls of the blower and cleaning chamber rise, and the ends of the wire are fixed in the seams between the rows of bricks, with the help of which the doors are fixed. For laying a row, you will need 13 red bricks.
	Fourth row. The chamber of vertical channels is divided into two, since then they will be laid out separately. The cross-section of the channels along their entire height will be 80 × 120 mm. In addition, the installed doors overlap in this row. You need to prepare 13 red bricks.
	The fifth row is laid with refractory fireclay bricks, as the lower part of the firebox is formed. In the bricks that determine the place of laying the grate, from their inner edge, a cut is made at a right angle. The cutout should be approximately 10 x 10 mm ± 1 mm. The prepared bricks are laid over the blowing chamber. For laying a row, 16 fireclay bricks are required.
	After that, on the fifth row, a grate is installed in the prepared recesses in the bricks. It is sometimes mounted on clay mortar, but often without mortar at all. In the latter case, the gaps between the grating and the brick, which should be about 3 ÷ 5 mm, are filled with sand.
	Sixth row. The walls of the two vertical channels continue to form, and the walls of the furnace begin to erect. Laying is carried out only with fireclay bricks. The row consists of 12 fireclay bricks.
	Further, on the sixth row, a combustion door is mounted, which, like the blower door, is fixed with a wire in the seams of the side walls. However, before installation, the furnace door is equipped not only with wire fasteners, but also wrapped around the perimeter with an asbestos cord. This process must be carried out to create a thermal gap that will allow the metal to expand when it is strongly heated.
	The seventh and eighth rows are laid out from 12 refractory bricks each and correspond to the ordering scheme. During their laying, the walls of the firebox continue to rise and vertical channels form. It is clear that the laying of bricks in the rows is tied.
	When laying the ninth row, the door of the combustion chamber is blocked. To relieve the load from the cast-iron door, from the bricks installed on the side walls, the edges, turned towards the combustion chamber, are cut off at the same angle of 30˚. These cuts will serve as a kind of support for the middle brick, cut from both sides at an angle of 60˚, that is, it should fit perfectly between the two extreme bricks. A row will require 12 fireclay bricks.
	On the tenth row, the fuel chamber is combined with the extreme vertical channel, since the smoke formed in the firebox was directed into this hole. In order to ensure the smooth running of the hot air, a cut of the protruding corner is made on the middle brick separating the furnace hole and the closed channel. This row will require 11 fireclay bricks.
	On the eleventh row, the masonry around the combustion chamber differs in that bricks with a cutout to a brick depth of 10 × 20 mm are used for it. This step is for laying the hob. For masonry, you will need 11 fireclay bricks.
	After the 11th row is laid out, the step on the bricks is covered with asbestos strips or a layer of clay, 3-4 mm thick (provided that the hob is 5 mm thick). These spacers will serve as a cushion and thermal gap for the hob. Then, the hob is installed in the place prepared for it. From the side where the cooking chamber will be formed, the corner part of the masonry is reinforced with a metal corner.
	From the twelfth row, only red bricks will be laid. At this stage, the walls of the cooking chamber are laid, and the previously opened vertical channel is again closed with a lintel. For laying this row, you need to prepare 10 bricks.
	The 13th row is laid out according to the scheme, but in the outer part of the first vertical channel a place is formed for installing a valve designed to switch the furnace modes to winter or summer operation. For this, cutouts are made in the brick to deepen the metal element. Further, on the prepared place, the stationary part of the chimney valve is fixed on the clay-sand mortar. The row is laid out with 10 bricks.
	14th - 18th rows - 10 bricks are required for each of them. The masonry on these rows has the same configuration, taking into account the dressing, and forms vertical channels and a cooking chamber.
	On the 18th row, the cooking chamber is overlapped by three steel corners, which form the basis for laying the next rows. One of these elements is installed on the edge of the "ceiling" of the cooking chamber, the second turns to the first and is installed at a distance of 250 mm from it (brick size), and the third corner is pressed against the second with its back side. Looking at this structure, it is quite possible to understand how the bricks should be laid.
	19th row. Laying it out, they block the cooking chamber with 12 bricks, but a steam exhaust hole is formed above it, into which a valve will be installed. To mount this element, cutouts are made at the edges of the bricks installed on three sides, and a layer is removed from the outer brick, making its thickness smaller. Next, a valve is fixed to the prepared site on the clay mortar.
	The 20th row is laid out according to the presented scheme. At this stage, the installed valve is closed and the channel openings are formed. The side brick in the first vertical channel is compressed for a smooth overflow of heated air. A row will require 15 bricks.
	On the 21st row, the first vertical channel and the opening for removing steam from the cooking chamber are combined into a common space. The brickwork is carried out along the perimeter of the furnace, the brick is installed in the form of walls, and a second vertical channel is also framed. Moreover, the angular inner brick is cut to ensure a smooth escape of steam into the chimney. For masonry, you need to prepare 11 bricks.
	Further, on the same row, the resulting space is overlapped with steel strips, which will provide a basis for installing a metal plate and laying the next rows.
	The next step, which is carried out on the same row, is the installation of a roofing iron plate. With the help of it, a chimney hole is formed, located on the opposite side of the window for steam out of the hob.
	On the 22nd row, a metal plate is overlapped with brickwork. Further, the laying is carried out according to the scheme. Only the channel openings remain open. Then, on the outside of the oven, a metal corner is installed, which will strengthen the front part of the bottom of the drying chamber. 15 bricks are required for laying a row.
	23rd row - the walls of the drying chamber are formed. Its back wall is made of brick, installed to the side - it will separate the chamber from the opening of the chimney duct. 12 bricks are used.
	On the 24th row of 11 bricks, the walls of the chimney and two vertical channels, as well as the drying chamber, are formed.
	25th row - work continues according to the scheme, masonry is made of 12 bricks. The second brick of the rear wall of the drying chamber is installed in the same way as the first one, on the side.
	26th row. At this stage, the vertical channels are prepared to be combined into one space, so the bricks in the vertical channels are cut at a slight angle to direct the smoke in the desired direction. For laying a row, 11 bricks are required.
	On the 27th row, with the help of masonry, two vertical channels are combined, and a cleaning door is installed on this common chamber. The rear wall of the drying chamber is raised by another brick, which is installed on the side. The row consists of 11 bricks.
	On the 28th row, consisting of 10 bricks, the laying is performed according to a scheme similar to the 27th row. And then three metal corners overlap the drying chamber space.
	On the 29th row, almost the entire area is covered with brickwork, which is mounted in accordance with the scheme. Only the opening above the drying chamber is left open, where a valve will be installed in the cuts made on the bricks framing this opening. The outer brick is cut, making it less thick. A gate valve is installed in the equipped "nest" on the clay mortar. The row consists of 17 bricks.
	The 30th row, consisting of 16 bricks, completely covers the surface of the furnace. The only exception is the chimney hole, the size of which is half a brick.
	The chimney begins to form on rows 31 to 32.

If it is decided to do it yourself, then the work should be done slowly, approaching each stage of the process with all responsibility and maximum accuracy. Provided you follow all the recommendations and the provided ordering scheme, even a novice master will be able to cope with this work and gain experience for new creations.

And at the end of the article - another example of laying a miniature brick oven for a country house.

Video: compact brick oven for a small kitchen

There are many options for heating a summer house today: centralized gas, boilers, electric heaters. But if all this is not possible to implement due to the remoteness of the area from civilization, a do-it-yourself brick stove for a summer residence will be an excellent solution.

Reliable and durable - it will gather around it more than one generation of household members, providing the house with warmth and filling it with comfort.

The services of a good stove-maker are not cheap. Therefore, if you decide to implement a brick oven project at your dacha, it will be useful for you to read this article, in which we will tell you about the principle of operation, features and the scheme of laying the oven structure.

A brick oven can become not only a functional device, but also the main highlight of the interior, if it is played correctly. Today, there are many ways to beautifully tiling and decorating a stone oven.

No matter how much time has passed since the appearance of the first stove structures and no matter how far the technologies for heating the dwelling have gone, the stone stove still does not lose its relevance. Compared to other types of heating (electricity, gas), it is more economical. At the same time, thick stone walls allow you to keep heat for another day after the firewood burns out.

According to their purpose, furnaces are divided into the following types:

• heating;
• cooking;
• multifunctional;
• combined.

• a combustion chamber, which is purchased ready-made, or laid out with fireclay bricks;
• ash pan where ash is collected;
• chimney.

A fireplace with an open or closed firebox can be attributed to the same type of design. It is used not only for decorative purposes, but also allows you to effectively heat a room with an area of ​​15-20 square meters. meters.

Depending on the selected material, wall thickness, masonry scheme, heating stoves can have different heat output.

The most popular type of stove is the one-brick construction. This allows the walls to warm up to 60 0 C. The famous Dutch ovens are laid out according to this scheme.

In terms of dimensions, the heating stove can be wide and wide, or it can have an elongated rectangular shape. It all depends on the area of ​​the room, the style of the interior and the personal preferences of the owners.

Tiled tiles, decorative plaster, decorative stone are usually used for facing such a furnace.

Brick heating stoves in the form of a three-sided prism look very stylish and original, but a beginner will not be able to implement this option, since a lot of experience is required here. Of great difficulty is the cutting of bricks and the requirements for keeping the angle strictly under 60 0.

Round stoves, which are laid out according to the scheme of the famous Russian engineer in stove business V.E. Grum-Grigimailo, also look beautiful and unusual. The furnace works on the principle of free gas movement. To ensure tightness, the outside of the structure is covered with sheet metal. Such a stove is capable of heating a large country mansion and will become a real decoration for any home.

The design of the furnace consists of a brick body, inside of which there is a combustion chamber, an ash pan, and a chimney. A metal plate lies on top (an oven can be built in).

1. The heating and cooking stove is already a multifunctional structure.

This is a more difficult project to implement, since it consists of:

• combustion chamber;
• chimney;
• ash pan;
• hob;
• oven.

The stove looks massive and is usually chosen for summer cottages where no other heating option is provided.

In our country, heating and cooking stoves are the most popular, allowing you to heat a house and prepare a delicious meal for the whole family.

It can be additionally equipped with a drying chamber, where you can make preparations for the summer: mushrooms, berries, fruits. In cold and damp weather, in this chamber you can quickly and safely dry clothes and shoes.

By the way, ovens with drying chambers were first invented in the countries of Northern Scandinavia, where hunters and fishermen needed to dry clothes and boots overnight.

Many schemes of heating and cooking stoves have additional devices in the form of a comfortable stove bench, drying for wood, an oven, and a hot water tank.

Furnace device for giving and its features

The main elements of any brick oven for a summer residence are:

10 basic rules for laying a country stove

Which brick stove to choose for a summer residence?

The choice of furnace design determines the size and type of room. For large cottages, a massive stove structure with thick walls will be required, which will heat up for a long time, but at the same time it will be able to hold the temperature for a long time. Folding such a stove is not an easy task. This will require some experience and knowledge.

But even a beginner can cope with a small stove for heating a small cottage, if you follow a clear scheme and do not change the masonry rules.

In the first place in terms of the popularity of heating and cooking stoves is worthily placed a Swede, who enjoys well-deserved love and respect among Russian stove-makers.

This design is a compact, ergonomic shape with a small hob, three-channel chamber. It is ideal for a small summer cottage, the length ranges from 880 to 1250 mm.

For the location of such a stove, a place is most often chosen between the kitchen and the living room. Thus, the stove serves a double function: it serves for cooking and decorates the living room with a fireplace.

On the Internet today you can find hundreds of different layouts for laying a Swedish stove with a hob, so it will not be difficult to implement it for a summer residence. Many stove-makers have added additional options to the standard masonry scheme, therefore each design is named after its creator: Buslaev's, Kuznetsov's stove, etc. But the principle of operation in them is the same.

Traditionally, a Russian stove can be called a bulky massive structure, which is decorated not only with a hob with an oven, but also with a spacious stove bench.

This oven is already not only a functional cooking device, but also a place to relax. It allows you to warm up the room well, retaining heat for a long time, has a beneficial effect on the human body, making the owners of such stoves less susceptible to colds.

The building usually has two fireboxes (main and additional). Thanks to the special design of the furnace, heating is carried out evenly, from bottom to top. Any solid fuel is suitable for kindling, and especially strict requirements are not imposed on the materials for the masonry of the Russian stove.

A special place among small heating and cooking stoves is occupied by little V.A. Potapov, created by a famous engineer at the beginning of the 20th century. For its laying, only 211 bricks are needed, and the dimensions of the furnace are only 630 * 510 mm.

At the same time, such a baby contains a single-burner stove, a small oven for baking and a cooker hood. This stove option will be an excellent solution for a small garden house or a one-room summer cottage.

In this article, we invite you to study the rules and basic points of laying a small heating and cooking stove.

Do-it-yourself oven masonry

Step 1. Choosing a brick and preparing tools

Which brick for laying a small country stove to choose? We need 2 types of bricks: fireclay (heat-resistant) for the construction of the firebox and red ceramic (not lower than M-150). You should not save on materials; further operational properties, safety and efficiency of the furnace depend on this.

Fireclay bricks can be easily recognized by their yellowish color and porous surface. This material contains refractory clay and chips. This material, in addition to its heat-resistant properties, is also valued for its ability to accumulate heat for a long time. Even after the firewood has completely died out, such a stove is capable of giving off heat for a long time.

Heat-resistant fireclay brick is able to withstand temperatures up to 1500 0 С, therefore the combustion chamber should be laid out exclusively from this material.

The smaller the mass of fireclay bricks, the more pores it contains, which are created by aluminum oxide. Such a brick will conduct heat very well. The cost of this material is almost 5 times higher than the price of red brick, but there is no need to save.

But laying out the entire furnace from fireclay bricks is also not worth it, the outer part of the structure does not heat up much, and the red ceramic brick looks more attractive.

When choosing bricks for your oven, pay attention to color and shape.

You can test the material. If you throw a brick from a height of 1.5 meters, and it does not crack, take this batch. But bad, overexposed brick can split into several pieces. Such a brick makes a dull sound when it falls.

The grade of brick for facing the furnace should be M150 or M200. The figure in this case means how much weight the brick can withstand by 1 cm 3.

Do not use sand-lime and hollow bricks. It's not even about the ability to withstand the heat - they can handle it. Silicate brick does not conduct heat well and it will not be very comfortable in a room with such a stove.

For mortar, you need sand, red oven clay and water. The appearance and durability of the oven directly depends on its quality and consistency. To prepare it, use medium liquid red oven clay. When frozen, it should not fall off, crumble.

The masonry will be made with a thickness of 0.5 mm, in this case the precious heat will not quickly go away.

Also, for construction, you can use ready-made masonry mortar, which is sold in stores. Usually, it contains various impurities that add strength and heat resistance to the structure. In this case, it will be enough to dilute the dry mixture with water and bring it to a homogeneous state using a construction mixer.

In consistency, such a solution should resemble thick sour cream. If the mortar rolls off the trowel, add more dry mix. If it turns out to be too thick, then it will be difficult to work with it and make thin seams. Add some cold water and stir again.

So, for the construction of the furnace, we need the following materials:

• Masonry mortar (sand, red oven clay).
• Red ceramic brick M150 - 120 pieces.
• Fireclay bricks - 40 pieces.
• Foundation material (cement, graphium, sand).
• Roofing material.
• Asbestos cord, galvanized wire.
• Plywood or boards to create formwork.
• Reinforcing mesh for arranging the foundation.
• Grate.
• Metal plate for one bezel (cast iron).
• Ash pan and ash pan door (blower).
• Cast iron door for the firebox.
• Chimney valve.
• Chimney view.
• Metal cap for the chimney.

Tools that will be needed to build a stove.

• Building level.
• Scoop shovel.
• Construction marker.
• Protractor.
• Spatula, rule.
• Master OK.
• Measuring tape (tape measure).
• Construction plumb line.

Important! When laying a stove, a lot depends on the quality of the clay. Ideally, use medium-fat red river clay that has been outdoors for at least 2 years. Make exactly as much mortar as you can handle in "1 run". The solution quickly becomes thick and difficult to work with.

Step 2. Prepare the brick for laying the stove

Before proceeding with the laying of the stove, it is necessary to lay out all the brick in advance and prepare it according to the ordering scheme.

This stage includes dividing the brick into ½ or ¼ parts, cutting at the corners.

Study the diagram carefully and see which parts of the bricks you need for each row.

If necessary, you can number the brick, so that later it will be easy to navigate in which row to insert it.

How to split a brick correctly? Before "beat off" the necessary part of the brick, according to the scheme, you first need to make a groove. This can be done with a hacksaw or file.

To make ½ brick, make 1 groove.

For 1/6 or 1/8 bricks, make a groove on all sides of the brick.

Step 3. Choosing a place for the oven

This is a very important stage in laying the stove, which is advisable to carry out even at the stage of building a house.

But there are times when the decision to lay the stove arises from the owners of the houses already during the operation of the summer cottage. In this case, determine the place from which it will be easiest to remove the chimney.

It is also important to estimate the distance between the oven and windows and doors. After all, cold air blowing in from the doors can impede the natural circulation of heat in the house, reducing the efficiency of the stove.

In addition, the oven should not interfere with free movement around the room. It should become one with the space without creating any inconvenience. In many ways, the placement of the stove depends on the purpose.

The heating and cooking model is best placed in the kitchen, and the fireplace stove will look beautiful in the living room.

• The distance to the nearest wall must be at least 25 cm.
• The chimney must not pass through beams.
• The floor and wall will have to be lined with fire-resistant material.
• It is better to place the fireplace near the inner wall of the house. To increase efficiency, it makes sense to install a stove in the space between the kitchen and the living room. Thus, one stove will heat two rooms at once.

An excellent place to place the stove is the corner of the room, only if there is no front door opposite the corner, from which cold air will blow out the flame.

Step 4. Construction of the foundation

For the construction of a brick oven, a separate foundation must be made. If it is laid on the same cycle with the construction of a house, it is not a difficult task to complete it.

If you made the decision to lay the stove after the completion of the general construction, then it will be necessary to remove part of the finished floor and sink into the ground.

Why is it so important to keep a separate foundation? A brick oven, whatever its size, has a lot of weight, which will put a lot of pressure on the foundation. When shrinking, the house will shrink. This should in no way affect the shape and construction of the oven.

That is, the general foundation of the house should not pull the stove along with it, as this can lead to a violation of its sealing and deterioration of technical properties.

Attention! Before laying the brick on the mortar, lay the entire brick "dry". First, it will allow you to see if you have enough material. And secondly, even at the rough stage, you can see the difficult moments that you will have to pay special attention to.

Step 5. Laying the stove

Attention! Before laying the stove, dip the bricks in a bowl of cold water to absorb the moisture. This will prevent them from drawing water from the mortar.

Fill this gap with sand. The entire under the stove will practically be occupied by grates, which will ensure good and easy maintenance of the stove, as well as complete burning of the wood.

We block the blower door with a brick.

Installing the combustion door

We install the furnace door, having previously wrapped it with an asbestos cord. To make it easier to mount it, put the door on a thick wire and support it on both sides with bricks. Then these bricks will need to be removed.

• 6th row. Closes the furnace door.

Here we begin to form the chimney pipe, creating overlaps for the two vertical channels.

We lay the base of the firebox, which we make from fireclay bricks.

• From 7-9 rows we lay out the firebox with fireclay bricks according to the scheme.

In this row, two bricks overlapping the grate must be cut at a 45 degree angle.

• 10 row - we close the oven. We create a partition from a brick, raising it by 2 cm. On the oven, up to the level of the partition, we apply a clay-sand mortar. Preparing a place for installing a hob.

It is necessary to make recesses in the bricks for a secure fixation with the slab and create thermal niches for the expansion of the metal. Immediately attach the slab to the dry one and number the bricks - so it will be easy for you later to lay the brick on the mortar and not be mistaken with the correct grooves under the slab.

We lay an asbestos strip on a brick (to expand the metal).

Step 6. Outlet of the chimney through the roof

This is a crucial step, which must ensure complete safety of the furnace.

Follow the norms of SNIP when pulling out a brick pipe through the roof. According to these standards, the gap between the roof and the chimney must be at least 13-25 cm.

Insulate with heat-insulating materials around the place where the pipe passes through the roof. This will provide reliable protection against cold air blown out and provide reliable fire safety.

If the oven is being installed in a residential building with a finished roof, it will be necessary to remove part of the roof. After the pipe is wire, it will be necessary to fully ensure the integrity of the roof in this place, so that during rain or snow, moisture does not get inside.

For waterproofing a stone pipe, a special plate is used, which resembles a kind of pedestal around the chimney. The joining of the slate and the metal plate is carried out using a sealant.

If you want to simplify the task, then the chimney will not be difficult to complete with sandwich-type steel pipes. They are stylish and easy to assemble. In addition, they have a much lower weight than brick and will not create such pressure on the foundation.

When determining the required height of the chimney, be guided not only by the height of the roof, but also by the height of the ridge.

The efficiency of heating the room and the presence of traction directly depend on the correctly calculated parameters.

The edge of the chimney should protrude at least 0.5 meters above the ridge of the roof, otherwise the turbulence that forms around the roof can impede good draft and will constantly blow cold air into the chimney.

We are completing the construction of the chimney with a metal grate. It will prevent debris from entering the chimney.

We put on a metal cap on top, which reliably protects the pipe from precipitation.

Step 7. Lining the oven

There are many ways to decorate a stove beautifully for a summer residence.

Clinker tiles, tiled tiles, decorative plaster, artificial stone, etc. can be used as a decorative material.

Or you can just leave the stove in its original form, especially if you bought a high-quality beautiful brick.

Please note that any facing material reduces heat transfer. Therefore, if you do not want to lose thermal properties, you can cover the stove with a thin layer of decorative plaster.

Step 8. Heating up the stove

After the complete lining of the furnace, you need to take a technological break for 10-14 days until the structure is completely dry. Leave the door wide open.

When you are sure that the mortar is completely dry, the first test kindling of the oven can be carried out. There is no need to rush and immediately, after laying, kindle firewood.

Firing up a damp stove prematurely can lead to cracking. Use ¼ part of the firewood the first time, use small logs. This will allow the structure to dry well from the inside. Do not exceed the maximum temperature of 60-65 degrees during the first week of operation.

• Do not use garbage for kindling.
• The firebox door must be closed when firing.
• Preheat the oven gradually, do not immediately apply a high heat.
• Use good quality, well-dried firewood.

For the convenience of using a country stove, you can do it yourself with a stylish one, which will become a decorative and functional element in everyday life.

As you can see, if you follow a clear ordering scheme, it is not so difficult to fold a beautiful and solid summer cottage stove.

Video: Laying a brick oven "dry"

Below we give a detailed master class on laying a brick oven for a summer residence.

Video. Master class on laying a stove for a summer residence

The stove is a multifunctional, technically complex structure. Within its limits, fuel is processed, heat is obtained and combustion products are removed to the outside. If you plan to lay the stove with your own hands, you must strictly observe the rules that have been verified in practice for centuries, which guarantee the normal operation of the unit.

Those who want to know how to ideally build a brick stove, we will find detailed information on all important issues of interest to an independent master. In the presented article, the technological specifics of the structure are given in the finest detail, the main postulates of stove-makers and significant nuances are scrupulously listed.

The information provided by us will provide effective assistance in the construction of a brick oven. All its components will flawlessly cope with the duties, and the structure itself will serve for many years without any complaints. To help home craftsmen, we have selected ordinal schemes, photographs, video recommendations.

Before proceeding with the construction of the stove, you should decide on its purpose. Heating, cooking and drying units have significant design differences that must be taken into account initially. There is a reasonable difference in the orders developed by stove-makers for the precise laying of bricks.

There are many furnace designs that can be conditionally divided into groups by purpose:

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