In construction, one of the issues may be the use of materials of different properties together. Many have doubts about how to lay the tiles on their own on a wooden floor and whether it can be done. When working with your own hands, it is important to carefully study all the pitfalls of the process so that problems do not arise during the construction or operation of the house. By choosing the right materials and laying them in accordance with the technology, you can avoid a lot of trouble.
When the need arises
Many older buildings have wooden floors. In addition, when building houses of the following categories, you will need to lay ceramics on a wooden base:
- frame;
- frame-panel board;
- lumber;
- logs.
In all these cases, the construction of the house presupposes the presence of wooden floors, therefore, when using ceramic tiles as a finishing material, it is required to install them correctly.
The most important question in this case is whether it is possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor. Laying is possible, you just need to take into account some of the features of the base. The main areas in the house where you want to put ceramics are:
- bathrooms;
- bathroom premises;
- kitchens;
- halls;
- corridors;
- hallways;
- utility rooms (for example, a laundry room).
In all these cases, there is no better option than to lay the tiles with your own hands. Since it is this material that has high strength, wear resistance, moisture resistance and ease of cleaning.
Preparatory stage
Before you start laying tiles on a wooden floor, you need to carefully inspect the base to make sure it is stable. The need is caused by the following factors:
Scheme for replacing a wooden floor before laying tiles - Different deformability of ceramics and wood. In the case of wood, some bends and deflections are possible: the wood easily adjusts to minor deformations due to its own flexibility. Ceramic is a tough material that needs a tough base. If you lay it on an unstable base, then large-format floor tiles will crack. The only way out of the situation will be to replace the flooring in the house and strengthen the base. But it will be correct to prevent this and to make sure that the wooden floor or floor is stable even before starting work.
- If small-format tiles are used, if the quality of the base is unsatisfactory, it is not he who gives cracks, but cement joints. This problem is also not pleasant, since dirt accumulates in cracks and crevices, they worsen the appearance of the coating. In the bathroom, moisture penetration into the cracks is added to this. With great instability of the base, the floors in the house become uneven, which adds to the problems during operation.
It is important to remember that the tile has a fairly large mass. Laying the tiles on a wooden floor puts additional stress on the slabs and substructure. When conducting a thorough visual examination, it is required to identify:
- sagging floorboards in the bathroom and other rooms in which it is planned to lay tiles with your own hands;
- floor creak;
- damage by fungus, mold or other organisms;
- instability of all or individual elements of the system;
- looseness of fasteners.
If at least one of these problems is identified, the floor needs repair, reinforcement or bulkhead. In some cases, a complete disassembly of the wooden floor and pouring a cement screed will be an effective way. This is true for old houses with wooden floors. If we are talking about a house with timber ceilings, the question of strengthening the supporting structures may arise.
Depending on the condition of the floor, choose a method of performing work on laying ceramic tiles.
Good condition of the base
If we are talking about a new building or if the wooden floors and ceilings are intact, you can carry out the work in the following order:
- Preparing a wooden floor for tiles. First, all wooden elements are treated with antiseptics. These formulations will prevent damage to wood by mold, fungus and harmful microorganisms. Processing is required. Fire retardants can also be used as additional protection for wood. These substances increase the resistance of the material to fire. The event is not mandatory when building a house with your own hands, it is carried out at the request of the future owner. The next step before laying tiles in the bathroom, bathroom or kitchen (wet rooms) is a layer of waterproofing. Various leaks can occur in the bathroom, which can lead to flooding or damage to wooden structures. Roofing material, linokrom, hydroisol, polyvinyl chloride (PVC) film are used as protective materials.
- After completing the preparation, gypsum fiber sheets are placed on the floor and fixed with self-tapping screws. It is important to choose a moisture-resistant material, this is especially true for rooms with wet processes (bathrooms, bathrooms, kitchens). Laying is carried out in a staggered manner, which means that there are no extended joints in any direction. Before laying the tiles in the bathroom or other rooms, the gypsum fiber sheets are fixed to the base with self-tapping screws. In this case, the step of the fasteners is 15 cm. At the joints, the material is fastened with glue. Further, to ensure ventilation in arbitrary places, holes are drilled, after which the joints are primed. When the primer is dry, ceramic tile adhesive is applied to the gypsum fiber. The composition must be suitable for work with drywall.
- Laying tiles... Work should start from the brightest corner of the bathroom or other room. Use crosses to create seams. To level the surface and remove excess glue from under the tiles, you will need a special rubber mallet.
After the solution has dried, take out the crosses and grout the joints.
The logs are in good condition and the flooring is damaged
If floorboards have rotted in a bathroom, lavatory or kitchen, they will need to be replaced. They do it in the following order:
- Dismantling old flooring and floorboards.
- Checking the integrity of the logs, the quality of their fastening, the evenness of the laying.
- If the logs are in good condition, proceed to the preparation of the wood. To do this, it is treated with protective compounds such as antiseptics or flame retardants.
- Laying waterproofing. The materials that can be used are indicated in the previous paragraph. The layer is fixed between the lags.
- If necessary, provide for laying thermal insulation between the bars. You can use mineral wool (mats or slabs), polystyrene, polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam, expanded clay.
- Anchor the new floorboards. Fastening is performed on self-tapping screws. In this case, it is necessary to provide for gaps between the boards of 5-10 mm. They are needed so that the boards do not lead when the wood is deformed.
- After the work is done in the same way as in the previous case, starting from point 2.
Poor floor condition
If the structure is badly damaged, there are two options for the development of events:
- complete replacement of the wooden floor (flooring and logs);
- removing the floor and pouring the concrete screed.
The second option is best suited for houses with reinforced concrete floors. The first is considered in the case of wooden structures. A screed is preferable as such floors do not cause problems over time.
As the wood ages, defects such as creaking, rotting, and sagging will reappear. But if tiles are laid on the flooring, it is not easy to eliminate them, serious repairs will be required with time-consuming removal of the floor covering.
After replacing the base with a wooden one, the work is carried out as if the floor is in good condition, starting from point 2. If the decision is made to pour the screed, the installation is carried out according to the appropriate technology.
In many houses, the floor is made of floorboard along the logs. When walking, it bends, so the correct installation of tiles or porcelain stoneware on a wooden floor is not an easy task. In this article, we will tell you how to lay tiles on a wooden floor and in what ways to prepare the base.
Unlike wood, tile has a number of advantages. Its qualities are excellent for use in the hallway, kitchen, bathroom and toilet. Tile:
- does not ignite;
- not toxic;
- not afraid of contact with chemical solutions;
- withstands heavy loads;
- does not conduct electric current;
- does not lose its appearance from moisture, sunlight or frost;
- ceramics are unpretentious in cleaning.
The main disadvantage of the tile is the cold surface, so it will not be very pleasant to walk barefoot. To get rid of this, warm floors are often used. install even on a wooden base.
Styling process
The installation of the tiles is designed for a solid and rigid surface. Therefore, first you need to survey the existing floor.
Typically, old floors are made up of several layers:
- covering (laminate, linoleum, parquet, painting);
- substrate (chipboard, boards, plywood), which is fixed on the logs;
- Lags, which lie on a concrete base along the entire floor with an interval of about 50 cm - they serve as the frame of the structure.
Preparing the wood floor
First option
Suitable for those who have and bend.
- Remove old coating and backing. If the old logs are in good condition, then you can leave them as a base.
- Remove the floor sheathing with a nailer. Then place the logs on the substrate in a horizontal position using a level.
For greater safety of the tree, treat the logs with a protective impregnation.
- Fill the logs to the upper level with fine expanded clay. This will prevent the boards from sagging when walking.
- We cover the surface with boards (see article about) or thick plywood. The boards should be fastened with 2 self-tapping screws approximately 5 centimeters long.
- For ventilation, leave small gaps between the boards or then drill holes.
- Lay parchment paper on top of the boards and lay a new backing. For this, gypsum fiber sheets with a thickness of 20 millimeters or a cement-bonded particle board of 10-20 millimeters are suitable. Sheets need to be fastened at a distance with self-tapping screws along the perimeter of the lags, in increments of 15-20 cm.
- The gap between the wall and the floor can be filled with polyurethane foam.
- Now prime the surface and lay the tiles as you would on a regular floor.
Second option
Suitable for those whose floor is in poor condition, but the conditions allow making a screed.
- Remove the old floor sheathing. To prevent moisture from penetrating inside, the wooden floor is waterproofed under the tiles.
The easiest waterproofing method is to use plastic sheeting. - Using a laser or water level, mark the horizontal floor line around the perimeter of the room.
- Install beacons at a distance of about 1 meter from each other and about 10 centimeters from the walls. To do this, use metal profiles, screwing them to the concrete with dowels.
- The screed is made either with a mortar of cement and sand (composition: 1 part of M-400 cement to 3 parts of sand), or cast concrete.
- The average consumption will be approximately 15 kg per sq. meter with a layer of 1 cm.
- If you need to fill in a layer that is too large, then first fill in expanded clay between the beacons, 2/3 of the layer thickness. Fill with a screed and wait for drying within 24 hours.
- After drying, clean the surface from floating expanded clay. Prime and fill with solution. This time, you need to align it with the lighthouse rule so that the floor turns out to be even. Begin aligning from the far corner towards the exit.
- After three days, prime the screed and, preferably, fill it with a self-leveling mortar.
- Everything! The screed is ready - now feel free to proceed with the usual methods.
The third option
Suitable for those who have a floor in good condition and sheathed with chipboard sheets.
- Waterproof the cracks between the wall and the tree with polyurethane foam.
- Saturate the chipboard several times with protective impregnation or heated drying oil (be careful, it is flammable).
- Then apply a thick layer of latex to the chipboard surface.
- Immediately after applying it, lay a masking net on the surface and leave to dry.
- When the latex is dry, the mesh should be secured to the floor with self-tapping screws.
- Treat the surface with a mixture of the following composition: 1 part water, 2 parts water glass, 2 parts coarse sand.
- It is advisable to additionally level the surface with a self-leveling mortar. When everything is dry, tiles are laid on the wooden floor.
Video for laying tiles on a wooden floor in an apartment:
These are all the basic methods on how to lay ceramic tiles on a wooden floor. As you can see, this is not an easy task and will require a lot of additional preparation. And if you put the tiles directly on the wood, the tiles will quickly crack and fall off due to constant movement.
The comfort level of our homes is constantly increasing. Already in wooden houses there must be bathrooms. What floor should be in the bathroom? Tiled or porcelain stoneware. But to avoid problems, you need to know how to lay tiles on a wooden floor. There are techniques and rules that allow tiles and wood to coexist peacefully.
Floor tiles are one of the most comfortable coatings for bathrooms, bathrooms, kitchens. Some people prefer this covering on the floor of the hallway. Owners of log floors often wonder whether it is possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor. Can. There are materials that make the idea real, but first, let's figure out the difficulties that can be expected.
If floor mobility is not taken into account, tiles may bounce.
Wood floor mobility
To decide whether it is possible to lay tiles on your wooden floor, you need to examine the logs, boards. If the logs and boards are in good condition, the floor "does not walk" under your feet, tiles or porcelain stoneware will also lie without problems. Is there a slight deflection? Perhaps it will be eliminated by sheet material, which is still put on the boards under the tiles. If the deflection is large, it is better not to risk it. Still, the materials cost a lot.
If the floorboards are in poor condition or they sag, and the logs will stand for another thirty years, there are three options:
The first option is the least realistic - it is an almost complete bulkhead of the floor. In this case, it's better to do it. All the same, after all, the floor was practically dismantled, and the cement base is always safer and not only for tiles. And a warm floor can be done. There is only one remark. The screed can be done if the bearing capacity of the floor or foundation, or both, allows.
If the lags are not good for anything and the board is too, it is best to do a screed. You can - lightweight, you can - normal. It is necessary to look, as already said, in terms of bearing capacity, but laying tiles on rotten logs and boards - this will not lead to anything good.
Different temperature expansions
Wooden floor and tile or porcelain stoneware have different values of temperature and humidity deformations. To put it simply, when temperature and humidity change, they change their size in different ways. Wood changes a lot, ceramics only slightly. The difference is substantial. If you do not pay attention to this, the tiles will crack or cracks in the seams will appear. But there are methods for laying tiles on an unstable base and materials that can compensate for this difference.
This is how the problem of different expansion of the wooden floor and ceramics is solved. Let's say right away that tile glue and grout for wood floors are more expensive than usual. This is because of the polymers that give the formulations elasticity. But it is clearly not worth saving and buying ordinary glue.
Will the floor rot under the tiles
At high humidity, the wood rots. As long as the tree is open, covered only with paint or varnish, the moisture evaporates. But, if there are ways of sucking in moisture, you cannot lock it in the floor. It is necessary to eliminate the sources, dry the structure and only after that, lay the tiles on a dry floor.
The wood floor must be done correctly. Then the tiles in the bathroom, kitchen, corridor fit without problems. If you are going to lay tiles on the plank floor in an apartment, and it is on the second floor and higher, there are no questions at all. Inspect logs and boards, if everything is fine - then according to the selected technology. How to properly lay tiles on a wooden floor in a house? If the floor is ventilated, lies for several years and nothing happened to it, the insulation (if any) is dry, the boards do not rot, the house is dry ... There are no problems either. You can put tiles on the glue on the sheet material fixed to the boards. So without much fuss.
If problems are found during the audit, there is high humidity in the house, this problem is solved first. Then, after a lapse of time, you can put the tiles on the floor.
Dry screed on a wooden floor for ceramic tiles
Correct tiling must meet several conditions. First. The cake must be thought out so that the boards and insulation (if any) are not in a humid environment. That is, if there is a possibility of increased humidity, care must be taken to remove the moisture. Second. It is necessary to compensate for different thermal expansions. For this, tile adhesive and grout are used special - for wood and unstable substrates.
To minimize the possibility of cracks in the tiles, it is better to take a tile that is not too large in size. The ideal option is a mosaic. When laying, do not forget about the technological gap around the perimeter of the room - the coating should not rest against the walls.
With or without waterproofing
If you are going to put tiles on a wooden floor in a bathroom, waterproofing is a must. It is placed on leveled and prepared boards, under the sheet material. The waterproofing is laid out over the entire area, with access to the walls, where it is hermetically fixed. Moreover, the material must simultaneously serve as a vapor barrier. That is, it should not allow water and water vapor to pass through. The cheapest option is a polyethylene film with a density of 200 kg / m². But it should fit in two layers, not one. As they sell it with a sleeve, they put it down. Without cutting. You can use other materials as well. There are many different ones, but please note that it should be a vapor barrier.
If everything is done this way, then you can simply and without trickery lay two layers of sheet material on top of the boards, and tiles on it No waterproofing is needed in the corridor. There is no need to put it there. There is no such amount of water there that can cause any harm. Better use a hydrophobic grout (which does not allow water to pass through). It will be better and more reliable.
In the kitchen, laying a hydro-vapor barrier is desirable. But you have to look at how the floor is arranged. If it is without insulation, there is a well-ventilated underground from below - it is possible without waterproofing. Take a waterproof sheet material, pass the joints of the sheets with silicone, use a hydrophobic adhesive for tiles and cover the seams with a hydrophobic putty. This will be sufficient even for short-term emergencies.
Pie for laying tiles with waterproofing and mineral wool insulation
If the wooden floor is insulated with mineral wool, it is necessary to take measures so that water does not get into it, but it is also necessary to organize everything so that moisture is not trapped inside the insulation. This means that in each specific case, a different solution is chosen. But the correct sequence of layers is (from bottom to top):
With such a device, it turns out that moisture that somehow got into the insulation will be removed through the vapor-permeable membrane from below. Such a device is typical for ventilated undergrounds. If you do not know how to lay the tiles on the wooden floor of the second floor, a counter-lattice and ceiling filing of the first floor will be added from below.
How to properly lay tiles on a wooden floor
First you need to level the floor as much as possible. Old boards can bend and it is advisable to remove these irregularities. Grinding, plane, putty. Than there is a possibility. There are ways to lay it this way, but it is safer - on a flat surface. There will be less problems during operation.
It is advisable to align the boards as much as possible - so that the sheets lie flat The second stage is to additionally secure the boards with self-tapping screws to the logs. This will reduce the possibility of sagging. You get an almost monolithic slab. If only some of the boards bend, you can rally them with neighboring ones by screwing in screws at an angle or hammering in nails.
What to make a base for a tile
On the cleaned and leveled boards, the sheet material is laid in two layers with a gap between the seams. Everyone chooses what he likes. Most often used:
The most popular is plywood. It is the most durable and does not bend, but its cost is now inhuman. There are cheaper materials - the same, GKL,. They have their drawbacks, but they are also used. A combination of materials can be used. For example, for rigidity, lay plywood on the boards, and DSP on it. This cement-based material is good for tile adhesive. But if you lay it directly on the boards, over time it will repeat the shape of the base. If the floor is uneven, the same unevenness will be on the sheet. If there is a tile on it, it will either break or bounce off. So such a combination - plywood + DSP - is more optimal in terms of costs and characteristics.
How to attach sheets to the floor
There are three options for attaching sheet material to the floor:
- They simply lay it on a flat plank floor and fix it with self-tapping screws.
- Curved floors require a different approach. The sheet material is placed on polyurethane foam. You need very little of it. It will just smooth out the irregularities.
On fairly flat boards, you can nail the sheets or screw them self-tapping screws
Tile adhesive can be used instead of foam. Apply to the floor, spread with a comb (notched trowel). Under the weight of the slab, the glue will redistribute, filling in the gaps. The sheets of the second row are stacked in a spaced pattern of seams (so that the seams are shifted by at least 50 cm). They are attached to the first with self-tapping screws. You can also apply foam and self-tapping screws right away. This is done, but there is no special need for it.
Rules for laying sheet material
In order for the flooring to be strong and reliable enough, the sheet material is laid in two layers. The sheets are cut so that the seams in the layers are spaced 50 cm apart. This will reduce the likelihood of through cracks and prevent water (suddenly it somehow gets into the gap) to get on the boards. Sheets are not placed end-to-end, but leaving gaps of 3-7 mm. These are the so-called expansion joints. The seam width depends on the type of material. You do not need to putty under the tiles, but if you want to achieve complete tightness, fill them with an elastic sealant.
When laying sheets around the perimeter of the room - between the flooring and the walls - leave a gap of at least 1 cm wide. This is the expansion gap. It will make it possible for the coating to change dimensions with changes in humidity and temperature. So that the gap does not remain empty (this reduces sound insulation), it is filled with polyethylene foam or (used as a substrate for a laminate). The height of the damper tape is not lower than the tile level. The tile should not rest against the walls. If you forget about it, it will fly off.
Laying tiles on a floor covered with sheet material
Before laying ceramic tiles, be puzzled by the choice of tile adhesive. There is a tile adhesive for unstable substrates. This is just wood. It differs from the usual composition in that it remains elastic.
If you are placing tiles on a wooden bathroom floor, look for the glue with improved water repellency. When paired with a hydrophobic grout, this coating will be completely waterproof. Otherwise, the installation of tiles is no different. The whole process is identical to how to lay tiles on concrete.
There are, perhaps, a couple of points. But this is not necessary, but from a series of "how to do it better." First, it will be easier if the tiles are small. Small tiles are less likely to crack. There are more seams, they remain elastic. All progress is compensated for at their expense. A mosaic is ideal in this regard, but the price for it is not affordable for everyone. Second. If you do use large-format tiles, when designing the tile layout, try to select it so that the tile seams are above the seams in the base. It is advisable that the gap of the seams is no more than 5 cm. This, again, will contribute to the fact that the seam will "win back" and the tile will remain intact.
DSP screed
If the bearing capacity of the foundation, floors, allows, on top of the wooden floor, you can pour a screed, and then lay the tiles on it. Why is this tile laying technology better? The fact that all movements of the floor are taken over by the screed. It also ensures tightness. Tiles are simply laid on the concrete, as usual. On regular tile adhesive.
Screed on a wooden floor under the tiles - if beams and boards allow If the bearing capacity of the foundation, log and boards allows, a hydro-vapor barrier is laid on the floor surface. It must be brought to the walls and fixed there. On this layer, you can lay the same PVC film in two layers, but it will most likely tear. Torn insulation doesn't work. Therefore, it is better to take something more durable. Membranes or reinforced films are much stronger, albeit more expensive. But reworking the entire floor due to the fact that it will rot will cost more.
When laying the waterproofing in the corners, where you lift the material on the wall, make small folds. This reserve will prevent the film / membrane from stretching. This will increase the likelihood that it will remain intact. A reinforcing metal mesh is laid on the laid waterproofing. For a regular floor, 100 * 100 * 3 mm is suitable. The mesh is welded, not a chain-link. You don't want to have a trampoline instead of a floor. Therefore, you definitely need a welded one - with welded joints. Mesh sheets are stacked overlapping one another by 15-20 cm. It is not necessary to tie them.
Further beacons are put up, the screed is poured or laid. Wet or semi-dry - your choice. The minimum thickness is 35-40 mm. By the way, it is possible, by the way, to lay pipes of the warm floor in this screed, but then under the film it will be necessary to lay a layer of insulation.
The composition of the mortar for screed floors under the tiles is standard. Cement + 4 parts of sand + water. Reinforcing fiber is added to reduce cracking. Such a bundle - reinforcement in the screed and micro-reinforcement with fiber - increases the likelihood that the tiles on the floor in a wooden house will lie without problems. After the screed has matured - after 28 days - tiles can be laid. There are no restrictions here. All movements will be leveled with a concrete slab.
On a wooden floor will require significant effort in the preparation phase
How to lay tiles on a wooden floor yourself: difficulties and features of the process
Generally speaking, ceramics are far from the best option for combining with wood. This is due to the different characteristics of these two materials:
- wood tends to change its size as a result of external factors: with an increase in humidity, the tree expands, with a decrease, on the contrary, it can dry out. In many cases, this leads to deformation of the tile covering and the appearance of cracks;
- unlike tiles, wood is highly susceptible to all sorts of destructive processes and is much inferior to the service life of ceramics. Therefore, it is often possible to face a situation when, due to the destruction of the wooden substrate, it is necessary to dismantle the tile;
- the tile covering, together with the water-repellent glue, blocks the oxygen access to the wood, which is necessary for the full service of the wood. As a result, a significant reduction in the duration of the base's service life;
- only the lightest tiles can be used for laying on top. Otherwise, its weight will be too heavy for the wooden base and over time the tile will fail.
So, can you lay tiles on wood floors? Can. But this is a rather complicated process. If you are still confident in your decision to put ceramic tiles on top of a wooden floor, be prepared that you will need to put in a lot of effort. But the result is worth it, so let's move on to preparing the foundation. Let's consider step by step how to lay tiles on a wooden floor.
Helpful advice! It is strongly discouraged to lay tiles on top of a wooden floor that has not been installed at least two years ago. This is fraught with cracking during shrinkage.
The main requirements for carrying out these construction works are as follows:
- provide oxygen access to the lower layers of the coating (wood);
- evenly distribute the permissible loads over the entire surface;
- ensure the immobility of the base.
In order for all these points to be observed, it is necessary to plan the order of work and follow the outlined plan. It will also be useful to watch various videos on how to put tiles on a wooden floor.
Assessment of the condition of the coating: is it possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor?
The first stage involves a thorough examination and assessment of the condition of the wooden base. To do this, it is best to remove the top boards and carefully examine all structural elements: beams, logs, each board on both sides, insulation, etc.
For any signs of damage, it is imperative to replace or repair the base area. What you should pay special attention to:
- the presence of rotting. There are many types of rot, so you need to carefully inspect the surface. Regardless of the type of fungi that give rise to this process, the wood softens, changing its color or texture. The check for the presence of decaying elements is carried out as follows: an awl must be inserted into any fragment that arouses suspicion in you. Easy entry is a reliable indicator of destructive processes in wood. All affected elements must be eliminated, and the adjacent parts must be treated with special antiseptic agents for wood;
- carpenter beetle larvae. These insects destroy wood, gnawing through many passages in it. To solve the problem, the same approach is used as in the first case - replacement of the damaged area and careful treatment with a special compound.
Most of the destructive processes for wood develop as a result of high humidity. Therefore, installing tiles on a wooden bathroom floor requires special attention. In dry rooms, the development of fungi can occur as a result of a violation of the integrity of the insulating layer. Considering these factors, it is worth carefully checking the waterproofing materials for damage. You may need to add an extra layer.
Helpful advice! Fungal spores are found in almost any wood. The only way to prevent them from spoiling the floor is to carry out high-quality treatment with antiseptics and create the most unsuitable living conditions for them.
If none of the above flaws were found on your floor, or you have already eliminated all existing defects, then you can lay the tiles on the wooden floor.
How to lay tiles on plywood: preparatory stages of work
Before you start preparing for laying ceramic tiles on a wooden floor, you need to make sure that the distance between the joists does not exceed 50 cm. Otherwise, you need to install additional supports, otherwise the structure may not withstand the weight of the coating and fall through. As a useful source of information, you can use the videos presented on the network: how to put tiles on a wooden floor is discussed in them in sufficient detail.
Helpful advice! Do not forget to treat all new wooden elements with antiseptics.
Next, you need to check how even the logs are, for which the building level is used. As a rule, in the process of shrinkage, irregularities appear due to uneven subsidence of wooden parts. All these defects must be eliminated by cutting off unnecessary elements with a plane or vice versa - additional lining of small pieces of bricks or any other material. If it is not possible to push the missing element under the bottom, you can fill an additional board from above, trimming it to the required height.
After leveling, it is necessary to treat the coating against fungus and bacteria. To do this, use the product with the longest possible interval between repeated treatments and follow all the recommendations specified in the instructions.
The most common surface treatment before laying ceramic tiles on a wooden floor is hot drying oil. For quality protection, it must be reapplied several times (up to five). The product is a completely natural, environmentally friendly impregnation. Each next layer of drying oil is applied after the previous one has completely dried. You can make sure that it is dry by touching the surface - it should not be sticky.
The main thing in the process of processing drying oil is not to let it cool down, because its antiseptic effect directly depends on the temperature: the hotter it is, the better it destroys larvae, spores and bacteria. In addition, when hot, drying oil is more liquid and can penetrate deeper into micro-crevices.
Helpful advice! Heating drying oil is an unsafe process. Its vapors can ignite, therefore it is strictly forbidden to place the container on the stove. While heating the septic tank, hold it over the stove and, just in case, prepare a piece of tarpaulin that can be used to extinguish the ignition source.
How to Lay Tiles on Wood Floors: Cleaning the Planks Needed
If all previously removed boards are in satisfactory condition, they can be reinstalled, after having previously cleaned of the old varnish or paint with which they were covered. This can be done while you are waiting for the antiseptic solution to dry completely.
The following methods can be used to remove varnish and paint residues from the surface of the boards:
- building hair dryer, set to a temperature of 200-250 ° C. A stream of hot air must be directed at the paint, as a result of which it will begin to bubble up. Use a spatula, knife or scraper to remove it. In some sources you can find recommendations on the use of blowtorches, but this is not a good idea. There is a high probability of overheating of wood, and, as a result, deterioration of its technical characteristics;
- chemical washes are gel-like mass and are sold in almost all hardware stores. Such a remover must be evenly applied to the surface and after a while removed with a spatula along with softened paint. The only drawback of this method is the considerable cost of the material when it comes to processing a large floor area;
- mechanical cleaning involves peeling paint off the surface with a spatula or sandpaper without the use of auxiliary materials. It is cheap but very time consuming. The grinding machine will help speed up the process at times.
If, after removing the coating, you find any defects that were not noticed before, it is better to replace the damaged areas. In addition, all boards are subject to an antibacterial treatment. After the impregnation is completely absorbed, you can start laying the sub-floor under the tiles.
How to lay ceramic tiles on wood floors: sub-flooring
The process of sub-flooring begins with the laying of an insulating layer. The material you choose must be non-absorbent. This will keep the tiles dry and prevent bacteria and fungi from growing there. Also, the material should have a minimum weight in order to create as little stress as possible.
Extruded polypropylene foam can be considered a suitable option. Due to its synthetic origin, it prevents the development of any living organisms on its surface. True, this material also has disadvantages: it does not allow air to pass through well and has a considerable cost.
Alternatively, you can use expanded clay. It is natural and conducts air perfectly. However, it has more weight and a more hygroscopic structure.
Whatever insulation you prefer, it must be laid out on top of the layer
Mineral wool was used as insulation for the flooring
If you want a warm floor under tiles on a wooden floor, then in this case it is better to seek professional help. The installation of the system is quite complex and requires a certain level of skill.
When all boards are laid and secured, they can be putty and then smoothed using a sander. All cracks must be sealed with polyurethane foam. It is resilient enough to allow the wood to expand, while still carrying the weight of the tiles and glue.
Very few people are laying tiles on wooden floors. Of course, such builders are familiar with all the secrets of this process. For most homeowners, however, this combination is not very desirable, as there are many opinions about the incompatibility of wood and ceramic tiles. The main explanation is that the wood deteriorates faster, starts to move, which causes damage to the tiles laid out on top. However, such consequences arise when the laying of tiles on a wooden floor was not done entirely correctly.
One of the main reasons for laying ceramic tiles on such a floor is the need to provide excellent sanitary and hygienic conditions in rooms with high humidity. As you know, moisture destroys a wooden floor. protects the base from moisture, because some of its types can perfectly resist it.
Laying tiles on a wooden floor is always done in a standard way.
All the differences between the various cases are only in the preparation of the foundation.
In this case, preparing the base is the easiest. Preparation begins with a thorough revision of the plank floor. This process consists of removing the floorboards and assessing their condition.
Plank floor revision The state of the lag is also assessed. If there are damaged boards, they are looking for a replacement. Before assembling all the elements into a single structure, they are treated with antiseptic substances.
If necessary, insulate the floor. Expanded clay is often used for this. It is covered with an even layer. Moistened from above with cement mortar. You can use expanded polystyrene or mineral wool. In the second case, you should take care of. It is laid under insulation.
Insulate the floor Next, the wooden flooring is assembled. To do this, align the lags with a level. After the boards are laid. They are also checked for drops. If a board is too low, cardboard, roofing material or fiberboard is substituted under it. The resulting surface is putty.
After the top of the floorboards, you need to put moisture-resistant drywall. It is fixed using a two-component polyurethane adhesive. The structure can be strengthened by laying out another layer of drywall. It is created so that the seams of the lower row are covered with sheets of a new layer.
Important: the material is placed so that there is a gap between it and the wall. Each joint must be filled with a sealant.
Before placing the tiles on the wooden floor, you need to prime the base.
Prime the base For this, a universal primer is used. Next, you need to apply a glue compatible with gypsum plasterboard and lay ceramic tiles. At the end, take a sealant and fill the expansion joint left along the walls.
If the floor rotted and only lags remained
In this case, dismantle all the floorboards, evaluate the logs. Some of them should also be rotten. Bad lags are replaced with new ones.
All beams are treated with an antiseptic and exposed using a level.
A new wood flooring treated with an antiseptic is nailed on top.
Nail in new wood flooring The further procedure is as described above.
There is another option. Additional logs are mounted. Further . The latter will be the basis for laying tiles. This option will be discussed below.
This desire can be fulfilled when the floor is above the ground or on a concrete floor. In this case, you need to do the following:
- Remove skirting boards, floorboards and dismantle joists;
Dismantle the old floor - Clean the concrete base, remove the fallen off cement, develop each crack, or level the soil and fill in expanded clay;
Clean the concrete base - The concrete floor is primed or insulated with heat-insulating materials (expanded clay, expanded polystyrene);
Insulate with heat-insulating materials - Damper tape is laid;
Stack the damper tape - A leveling screed is poured (for this, a cement mixture for a self-leveling floor may be suitable), in the case of using a cement mortar, beacons are placed before pouring the screed; after such a screed it is advisable to fill it;
Pour the leveling screed - They are waiting for the screed to dry completely and start laying the tiles.
Start laying tiles
Laying tiles on wood floors covered with chipboard or plywood is a very good option. That is why it has become the most common. It is implemented in different ways:
- Fastening sheet wood material (plywood, chipboard) directly onto the leveled floorboards.
- Formation of a new log system and installation of plywood on them. These logs must be placed on the finished plank floor.
- Use of ready-made sets of leveling floors that have plastic screw supports.
Either method involves using an old wood floor as a base.
Laying in different ways Therefore, it will not be superfluous to check its suitability, treat all parts with protective solutions and replace bad elements. The second and third steps cannot be done without disassembling the structure. Although this is an additional work, in the end there is a good opportunity to assemble the structure without any drops.
When there is an equal, solid foundation, proceed to one of the three above-mentioned methods. The final stage of each of them is the installation of chipboard, plywood or similar sheet material. Place the plywood squares so that no cross-shaped joints form. It is desirable that the joint of two sheets of one row comes to the middle of a sheet of an adjacent row.
Coating with chipboard or plywood Fixation of the coating takes place with screws. Be sure to organize the grinding of the formed seams. Then they clean the surface with a vacuum cleaner and start filling the seams with a sealant. It can also be done using a two-component polyurethane adhesive.
It is worth saying that it is with this solution that the tiles should be glued to the plywood.
Using regular tile glue will not work well.
Laying tiles Before laying the tile, chipboard or any analogue is impregnated with a primer.
Video
In this video, you will learn how to properly prepare a wooden floor for tiling.
Thanks to this material, you will get a lot of useful information.
Photo source: stroyday.ru; bath-rmnt.com