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How to attach rails to drawers. What are the guides for drawers, installation (installation) of guides

Roller guides the simplest guides in terms of device and installation. The average price is 50-100 rubles. for a couple. Roller guides look like in the photo below, for sure you have seen them, and more than once.

Roller guides are covered with durable epoxy enamel, guides of different colors are found on sale, the most common guides are cream colors. You can find roller guides for drawers with a depth of 250 to 800 mm, that is, for almost all cases.

Roller guides withstand a dynamic load of up to 25 kg, you are unlikely to store something heavier in a chest of drawers or in a drawer in a closet. The disadvantages of roller guides are the noise with which they are extended and closed, the extension is partial. But low price eliminates these shortcomings.

According to the installation diagram, the gap between outer part the side wall of the box and the side of the body of the product should be 12.5 mm or 25 mm on two sides, usually 26 mm is taken in calculations. This means that the dimensions of the box in width should be less inner space cabinets for 25-26 mm.

Ball guides

Ball guides, or even as they are called telescopic guides, are able to withstand heavy loads, have a smooth ride. The cost of guides is 300-400 rubles. for a couple. There are options with and without closers.

Ball guides, like roller guides, consist of two parts. One of them is attached to the box, the other to the side wall.

In order to separate them, you need to press the latch, as shown in the photo.

You can, of course, install without disconnecting, but this torment is something else, I had a chance to try it on my own experience. As a result, a negative idea can be formed about ball guides, about the complexity of their installation. In fact, everything is simple.

Installation of ball guides by elements it is made on the side walls of the cabinet and the sides of the drawer.

The most commonly used ball guides are 45 mm high, the size range of guides is from 250 to 700 mm, they can withstand loads up to 36 kg, which is more than.

Calculation of the box on ball guides similar to the calculation of roller guides, the dimensions of the box in width are defined as the size of the internal space minus 26 mm (12.7 mm + 12.7 mm).

Metaboxes

Metaboxes– pull-out system based on roller guides. The material of the metaboxes is 1.2 mm thick steel covered with high-strength enamel. Price 300-400 rubles. for a pair, produced by "Blum" in the region of 600-700 rubles.

Tandems

Hidden tandem slide technology ensures smooth running even for heavily loaded drawers. The drawer can be easily removed from the rails without tools.

Tandem- it is a smooth ride and full or partial extension. Drawers can be either with built-in closer or without. The tandem can be equipped with Tip-on (front push opening system). The cost of guides is 1000 -1500 rubles. for a couple.

On the drawer guides Tandem can make a box under the sink. Since the sink has a convex part, which is located inside the body, the standard, that is, the direct design of the drawer, is not suitable here. The convex part or the bottom of the sink will not allow the drawer to close. In this case, the bottom of the box is made with a cutout, the walls of the box made of chipboard are attached along the cutout. The whole structure is mounted on Tandem guides.

Application tandem rails involves the use of chipboard 16 mm thick, although solutions with using chipboard 18 mm thick.

The most expensive segment of the drawer guide market. The sides of the box (sides) are made of thin-walled steel, unlike tandems, where the body of the box is made of chipboard.

The kit includes fasteners to the facade and fasteners for the rear wall of the drawer. The detailing includes a bottom and back wall made of chipboard, like a metabox. Guides are similar to tandems, have soft closing, with closers.

Tandemboxes can be equipped with an opening system that does not require the installation of a handle on the front, it is quite easy to press the front with your hand.

Tandemboxes of various heights and variety of the range far exceeds metaboxes. Let's look at an example Blum tandem boxes.

Height N, drawer side height 68 mm, smallest drawer


Height M, drawer side height 83 mm

Height C, drawer side height 115 mm

It is used for high facades, the rear wall is enlarged, a railing is also added. Minimum Height internal space for a drawer 191 mm.

Height also D, drawer side height 83 mm

It is used for high facades, the back wall is also enlarged, but instead of two railings, the railing with Boxside is an overlay on the drawer side. The minimum height of the internal space for the drawer is 224 mm. The solution is mainly for kitchen drawers and not for wardrobes.

Two triple tubular holders and railing tubes make it possible to make a special drawer on tandembox rails into a sink cabinet. Thanks to the cutout in the bottom, the drawer allows you to bypass the sink protruding inside the cabinet body.

One more interesting solution from Blum is the use of tandembox rails for a corner cabinet called space corner.

The set of fittings includes a number of specific elements that are not found in other guides, and this fitting, frankly speaking, is not cheap. Space corner allows you to effectively use the corner space in the kitchen, and the use of ORGA line dividers additionally structures the storage space.

at first boxes were positioned as elite products that were inaccessible to a mere mortal furniture maker. The point here was not at all the price, but the price, by the way, was the highest in comparison with other extension systems, but the complexity and accuracy of manufacturing the remaining parts from chipboard, the accuracy of milling the bottom of the box, the accuracy of drilling the side walls of the case and facades. Therefore, Legrabox boxes were offered to furniture companies that produce high-end furniture.

Installation, calculation and installation of guides for boxes

It is not enough to know what drawer guides are, but the question arises, how to calculate and install guides.

The Internet provides a large number of methods and approaches in the calculation and installation of guides. I use a simple, user-friendly program from Blum called DYNALOG, for design we use the DYNAPLAN module.

The program allows calculate both roller guides and metaboxes, Tandemboxes and tandems. At the output, we will receive a list of parts with dimensions, necessary fittings, drilling drawings for the side wall and facades. Special furniture programs are expensive, it makes no sense to master them, and even more so to buy if you want to make products for the home yourself.

As an example of a basic product, I will give a pedestal with a height of 616 mm, a width of 600 mm, a depth of 500 mm with false facades 200 mm high, drawers made of chipboard 150 mm high, gaps between the facades 4 mm.

If we want to calculate installation of drawers in wardrobe, then please note that with a cabinet depth of 600 mm and internal partition 500 mm, we calculate for inset facades, the facades will be inside between the side wall and the partition, as well as between the horizontal walls. Side gaps are best done by 4 mm in the variant of inset facades.

In this article, you can familiarize yourself with step by step instructions installation of roller furniture guides. You can easily install the sliding shelves yourself from marking to adjustment.

Roller guides make it easy to move sliding shelves. Roller guides - the mechanism is simple and inexpensive to manufacture, however, the disadvantage of this system is the noise and the calculation for the small weight of the boxes. Otherwise, they begin to creak over time, the rollers break, the guides bend. Guides are an alternative to roller guides. full extension.

Full extension guides

Step-by-step instructions for mounting roller guides

Start installing the roller guides by attaching the two guides to the bottom of the drawer. In this case, the roller itself should not be located at the facade, but at the back wall of the box, the other end of the bar rests against the facade. It is more convenient to attach the bar with self-tapping screws to the bottom of the box, and not to the sidewalls, despite the fact that holes are also provided in the side parts of the guides, since the second roller will move along the side. Make sure that the heads of the screws do not protrude above the surface of the plank, as this will interfere with the movement of the box. There are two types of holes in the system: round and oblong. For beginner assemblers, we recommend using oblong holes that allow for slight adjustments in position.

Attaching another pair of rails to the body of the cabinet or cabinet can be done in two ways:

1. Make careful measurements, mark the place for drilling holes for self-tapping screws, drill holes, apply a guide and fix it in at least three places.

2. Mark the location of the guide with a pencil, attach it to the mark and immediately fix it with self-tapping screws.

An important point - now the roller should be from the side of the facade.

1. We fasten the guide with self-tapping screws

to the bottom of the drawer. Roller from the rear wall.

2. The bar is fixed in at least three points.

3. We measure the location of the second

pair of guides. The indentation from the edge should be 2 mm.

4. We measure the height of the guide. If you

plan to fill the box with heavy items, add to the height

position of the guide a few millimeters to

compensate for a slight deflection of the bottom of the box.

5. We fix the guides with self-tapping screws.

6. Self-tapping screws are screwed in at three points.
7. The roller is located at the front side.

8. Insert the box.

box falling out when suddenly opened.

To remove the box or insert it, a little

lift the drawer front.

furniture rail adjustment

10. We check the smoothness of the extension of the drawer. Must not be

rubbing and creaking, the drawer slides out effortlessly.

The facade should not be skewed, it is tightly

adheres to the case body. If there is a slight distortion

or slot, you have the option to adjust the drawer

using the aforementioned oblong holes for

self-tapping screws. To do this, loosen the screw with a screwdriver.

and slightly change the position of the guide. Tighten

self-tapping screw and check the front and drawer movement again.

Installation of furniture rails, roller guides, adjustment of furniture rails

Table of contents:

When assembling frame furniture, the most important point is the installation of guide elements that provide roll-out of boxes. Such a fastener has quite simple design and consists of rollers and skids on which these rollers move. The skids are installed on the inside of the cabinet frame, and the rollers are attached directly to the sides of the drawer. Today, such guides are well-deservedly popular, as they have excellent wear resistance and have quite a simple circuit installation.

The nuances of installing roller guides

In order for all the drawers to fit perfectly into the body of the cabinet, the installation of the guides should begin from the top of the furniture frame. In order to perform the work correctly and prevent damage to materials, the calculations should take into account the height of the drawer body, the thickness of the material from which the upper and lower base of the cabinet is made, as well as the height of the gap between all the drawers that make up the furniture. The gap between the boxes should be at least three millimeters.

Work on the installation of guides must be started from the top of the pedestal body. It is better to install the skids on the inner walls of the furniture even before the body is assembled. So you will greatly simplify your work and be able to accurately calculate the mounting points of the guides.

Installation of roller guides

Making calculations and preparing workplace you can proceed with the installation of roller guides. First, mark on the inner side walls of the case the places for attaching the skids. At a distance of 2 cm from the front end of the case, fix the skids using special furniture screws. Using a square or tape measure, check the correct installation of each part and only after that proceed with mounting the rollers on the surface of the boxes. Roller guides are installed at the bottom of the sides of the drawers also with the help of furniture screws. In order to avoid errors, perform the work sequentially and proceed with the installation of the skids on the next drawer only after you put the first drawer into the cabinet body and make sure that it fully extends and retracts without effort.

In order for all the drawers to fit into the cabinet correctly, also take into account the height of the self-tapping screws that are installed in the lower base of the case. Most often, approximately 3-4 mm is left for such a gap. if you do all the work carefully and without haste, then as a result you will get a convenient functional cabinet with drawers in which you can conveniently store any personal items.

Today, roller-type guides can be bought at any specialty store for very affordable price. In order to avoid any difficulties during the installation of such elements, ask the seller for the nuances of mounting the guides of a particular model or carefully study the manufacturer's instructions, which are most often attached to the product.

For a long time I was going to write a lesson on working with roller guides. Here, at last, he got it. I already laid out the filler circuits here in. Now just bare practice. For example, I will assemble a simple nightstand with three drawers.

Let's start with boxes. They are assembled easily and simply on (a pair in each corner). The side walls are overhead, that is, on them the confirmations are screwed into the face, and the front and rear walls are loose, that is, into their end.

Then we put the back wall in place, carefully level it and pre-fasten it with three nails (two in one wall and one in the next one) so that the bottom does not move.

After that, we turn the box over and use a tape measure or ruler to check its diagonals. They must be equal.
If not, we pull out a lone carnation, bend the box as it should and hammer it back. As soon as the geometry of the box has come into compliance, you can screw the bottom onto a permanent base (with self-tapping screws). Moreover, in the front and back walls just with screws, and in the side walls we immediately fasten the guide. First, we impose it, align and drill holes with a thin drill.

Then we screw self-tapping screws into these holes.

We have finished with the boxes for now, let's move on to marking the racks. I use the following technique (a minimum of mathematics). So, first we mark the borders of facades with interfacade gaps on the front edge of the rack. You can not apply facades, but simply use a ruler, but it’s clearer this way.

Please note that the lower facade is consignment note, that is, it closes the lower horizon, which means that you need to retreat from the lower edge of the rack by 16 mm less.

Now we mark the guides themselves. To do this, you need to figure out how the drawers will be located: they should be closer to the bottom edge of the facades, but not protrude beyond their dimensions, the guides on the drawers themselves are strictly below. For greater clarity, you can attach guides to the racks and see how they will look (we focus on our facade marks). I usually retreat from the edge of the facade up 20 mm and draw a perpendicular to the front edge.

On this perpendicular, we set aside 37 mm and prick this point with an awl (this is the center of the second hole on the guide.

We lay it on the marking line so that it can be seen in all holes. We screw a self-tapping screw into the first hole, and on the pencil line (in the center of the hole in the guide) we prick another point. We also wrap a self-tapping screw in it (you can strengthen it with one more, but in this example we will limit ourselves to a couple).

Please note that the front edge of the guide is 2 mm from the edge of the rack.

We repeat this manipulation for all three pairs of guides (that is, for both racks).

In principle, the additive of the sliding system ends here, but we will finish the bedside table to the end.

We assemble the box (we fasten the lower horizon with legs to the confirmations).

We put the back wall into the grooves, (we fasten it with corners), we fasten the upper horizon to the mounting corners (you can use minifixes, which is more difficult, but more accurate).

We set the middle horizon. In principle, the cabinet box is ready.

We install the boxes themselves inside the box. Holes for self-tapping screws are drilled in the front walls (for). For this, double-sided tape is glued. We mark and fasten on each facade by a handle-bracket. Screws must be used with a countersunk head, or deepen their hats)

It remains to fix the facades themselves on the boxes. I have already described the technology in detail - I will not stop.

In general, as a result of all the manipulations, we got such a simple and neat bedside table in the clinic.

No matter how fast progress progresses, the most popular today are telescopic or as they are also called full extension ball guides.

For those who don't know, they look like this:

Their advantages include:

  1. Relatively low cost;
  2. Smooth and most importantly quiet running throughout their entire service life;
  3. Ability to withstand the impact of significant loads;
  4. Excellent strength and wear resistance;
  5. Simplicity and ease of installation;

Guides of this kind are most often used as sliding mechanisms for chests of drawers, kitchen sections and many other mechanisms, with the operation of which the owners do not want to have problems during their operation.

Calculation of drawer details

In order to correctly install the full extension telescopic rails, you need to be sure that you have done the detailing of the drawer correctly.

The assembled box without a facade installed on it in width means that between the box itself and the sidewall of the product there should be a gap of 26 millimeters, that is, 13 millimeters on each side. These are the dimensions (13 millimeters) of full extension telescopic guides.

The length (depth) of the box should be 6-10 millimeters longer than the guides, which, as a rule, have a length of 25 to 80 centimeters in 5-centimeter increments. Thus, when mounting the rails, place them in the middle of the drawer, leaving a minimum gap in front and behind the drawer. And also do not forget about the gap of at least 10 millimeters between back wall drawer and the back wall of the product (chest of drawers).

The height of the box is usually made based on its purpose and the needs of its owners, who will use it. But, as a rule, in the aisles from 8 to 25 centimeters.

Marking the attachment points of the telescopic rails

The process of installing full extension telescopic guides is much simpler than it might seem to a person who first deals with them, so to speak, picked them up for the first time.

When you take telescopes in your hands, you can notice peculiar antennae, usually black, on it, so if you squeeze them and pull on one half, then it will disassemble into two parts, one of which is attached to the inner side of the chest of drawers, and the second to the side of the drawer.

By the way, you need to be extremely careful, since telescopes are right and left and cannot be rearranged.

Your main goal is to define exact places fastening the guides, fix each of the halves of the telescopes with three screws and carefully insert the box into the chest of drawers, thereby connecting the two parts of the telescopic guide into one.

Mounting ball telescopic guides

We make the markup of the drawer: draw a line horizontally strictly in the center on both sides of the drawer with a pencil, and screw one of the halves of the guide along it, or rather the thinnest one (the one that goes inside the guide). Similarly, it is necessary to mark the line along inside chest of drawers and screw telescopes.

The exact dimensions are indicated in or another product you are working on. Marking and installation must be done, as shown in the figure below:

In our case, we mark 418 millimeters from the floor on one sidewall, and we mount the telescope at this height. Similarly, we make markings and fix the telescope on the second side of the chest of drawers.

Well, that's all hard work finished, then strictly along the marked line we fasten the halves of the guide to the sides of the chest of drawers and the drawer, after which you can put the drawer in its place. It remains to install furniture facades on the drawers and all the chest of drawers is ready.