In any construction work Technology is always important; it is this that guarantees the quality of construction and the durability of the repair result. But, often, builders make technological mistakes, some from ignorance, and some from inertia. Many builders deliberately violate technology, seemingly with good intentions, trying to speed up the installation process and reduce material costs. Let's look at the main mistakes using the example of working with a metal profile.
1. Violations of frame installation technology
Failure to follow the technology with metal profiles or the profiles not matching their purpose are perhaps the most popular mistakes of builders and everyone who makes repairs with their own hands. This is especially true for profiles for curved ceiling surfaces.
From this photo it can be seen that the master, unfortunately, in principle does not understand how to fix the ceiling profiles (PP 60X27). To fix them, you should always use hangers; the profile should look down with its smooth side, because it is on this base that the sheets of drywall are screwed. The design does not have an additional metal strip along the entire length of the profile (cut along the same curved line from a galvanized sheet), which ensures the rigidity of the entire structure. As a result, this design will be flimsy, and the fastening of the drywall will be unreliable, which will lead to the appearance of a crack after repair.
2. Errors when cutting profiles
For uniform cutting of profiles for installation purposes curved structures Under no circumstances should you use an angle grinder (grinder). At high speed, the metal overheats, and in addition, the galvanization burns out at the cut site, as a result of which in the future this place will be susceptible to corrosion. Cutting work metal profile should only be performed with special metal shears (manual or electric). The smooth profile is cut carefully, strictly observing the integrity of the opposite shelf on which the side sheet of drywall will be attached.
3. Wrong selection of profile
A common mistake among builders of various qualifications is when the structure of the box for partitions is made from ceiling profile, instead of rack-mount (PS 50/50) and guide (PN 50/40).
The stability, reliability and sound insulation of such a structure immediately comes into question.
Using a ceiling profile to frame partitions is a complete divergence from technology. For the construction of partitions or walls, a guide profile 50/40, 75/40 and 100/40 is used (which is fixed to the floor, ceiling and wall), and a rack profile 50/50, 75/50, 100/50.
4. Refusal of suspensions and violation of the frame
When building a suspended ceiling, builders are faced with the problem of the foundation - what should the frame be secured to? IN best case scenario this is concrete, but if it is wood or a complex surface obtained experimentally, then this is where problems arise, as in the photo. In this case, builders in some places decided to completely abandon the use of hangers for the frame of a two-level ceiling type P-112.
As a result, the main profile 60/27 is rigidly screwed to the supporting profile without a two-level connector. The supporting profile itself is pressed to the boards, also without hangers. This technology will lead to the fact that, over time, cracks will inevitably form along the surface of the entire plasterboard ceiling. The frame layout is also broken - the pitch of the profiles is chaotic, with a wide indentation of the supporting profile from the wall. If the technology is followed, the supporting profile is fixed from the wall in increments of 10 cm. The suspended ceiling system can only be mounted on special perforated or spring hangers. The profile pitch should be uniform every 50 cm (and in the case of heavy chandeliers - 40 cm).
5. Bending the profile walls
A striking example of incorrect work with the profile is shown in the photo below. The partition is again built from a ceiling profile, in violation of technology. And besides, for the jumpers the profile was simply bent.
And here, the supporting crossbar of the partition opening is made of a rack profile, which is also turned horizontally, and its stiffening ribs are unbent.
This is extremely wrong. By unbending the walls of the profile, the rigidity and integrity of the entire structure is compromised, as the reinforcement is also reduced. Here it was necessary to use a special guide profile for partitions of the appropriate size 50/40, 75/40 or 100/40.
6. Fixing the gypsum board sheet with the wrong side
Some builders consider the question of which side to fix the drywall to be unimportant - the front or the back? The photo shows how when covering a wall gypsum board sheets, some of them are sewn with the back side facing out. The peculiarity of this plasterboard is that it is moisture resistant and these properties are contained both in the core of the sheet and in its cardboard on the front side, preventing excessive wetting of the sheet during wet areas, as well as the formation of fungus.
7. Error in attaching drywall sheets
Another popular mistake that leads to the appearance of cracks at the joints of drywall is its improper fixation. It is the installation of drywall sheets in staggered order that will protect against the appearance of cracks. Below you can see how the sheets are screwed to the profile in one row, and in addition from small cuts. This is low quality cladding. Sheets should be taken as large as possible, and small pieces should not be joined in an area of 1 sq/m.
Even experienced craftsmen It’s worth improving your knowledge, for example, at the KNAUF Training Center. Remember - the reliability and quality of the designs of systems made of gypsum plasterboard and profiles is associated with adherence to technology!
Many of us are sure that drywall is a modern building material that came into use only at the end of the last century. No! In fact, this type of material has been used for about 200 years. Of course, production technologies have changed during this time, but this does not change the following fact: to master basic points Anyone can handle drywall on their own.
As a rule, today no one uses wooden blocks for mounting the frame, U-shaped metal profiles are used instead.
Working with drywall occurs using 4 types of profiles.
- Guide profiles for creating a frame, also often called PN or UW. They have a standard depth of 40 mm, and the width can be 50, 75 or 100 mm. Guide profiles are used to create the basis for fastening rack and ceiling profiles.
- Ceiling guides (PNP or UD) have the same functions as the previous profiles, but are used for installing suspended ceilings.
- Ceiling profiles (PP or CD) are designed to create a frame and lintels. They are inserted into guides and secured to the ceiling with hangers, crabs, and anchor clamps.
- Rack profiles (PS or CW) are used when it is necessary to install plasterboard partitions or to create walls. They are fixed into guides.
The main fastening elements for the frame profile are self-tapping screws, the length of which ranges from 9 to 12 mm. There are also rivets and mounting pliers (cutter) for connecting several profiles. The frame is attached to the wall or ceiling using anchors or dowel-nails.
Do not be intimidated by the large set of parts used when installing drywall. This is not a complete list of what professional builders use. In addition, do not forget that one-time work only implies the presence of direct hangers, CD and UD, dowel-nails or anchors.
Particular attention should be paid to the tools for installing drywall on walls. 
Since you will have to drill holes in profiles, walls and other materials, buy or rent a hammer drill, the impact force of which is 3-5 J. Using a hammer drill, making a hole in concrete is much easier than using an impact drill. She just can't handle that many holes. In addition, the hammer drill is perfect for mixing various mixtures for putty and installation. For this you need a special mixer attachment.
No less important is cordless screwdriver with a set of special attachments for screwing screws with different types hats
In addition to power tools, hand tools are also used:
- hammer;
- metal scissors;
- screwdriver;
- stationery knife;
- markers;
- laser level or hydraulic level;
- planer for drywall;
- pliers.
To attach one frame post with a height of 2.5 m to the wall, use five direct hangers, that is, 1 hanger every 50 cm.
To secure each, two anchors are used; a total of 10 holes need to be drilled. The distance between the posts is 60 cm, so for a wall 6 m long and 2.5 m high you will need 7 frame posts and 70 holes.
How to work with drywall
Working with drywall means, first of all, creating a frame and then covering it. Usually, leveling walls, erecting partitions, arches and niches.
Installing drywall with your own hands is as follows.
- Step back from the wall at least 3 cm (profile width), and make marks: using a plumb line or laser level draw a line on which the plasterboard wall will be located.
- Attach the main guide UD profiles to the floor and ceiling. Their edge should follow your line.
- After this you need to set vertical racks from CD profiles. To do this, they are inserted into the guides and screwed to each other with self-tapping screws.
- To give rigidity to the CD profiles, they are attached to the wall every 50 cm using hangers, which are fastened to the wall with two dowel nails. The hangers are screwed to the profiles with self-tapping screws, and their corners are bent.
- Width standard sheet plasterboard is 120 cm, so the distance between the centers of the CD profiles is 60 cm.
- After mounting the frame, insulation, electrical wiring, water pipes or heating pipes.
- When installing plasterboard sheets on the ceiling, not only direct hangers are used, but also wire ties and “butterflies”, which have special steel “wings” that fix the ties at the required distance from the ceiling.
Types of fasteners for creating a frame - assumes that you use special fastenings for this - anchors.
- Self-tapping screws for installing drywall are screwed in in increments of 25-30 centimeters.
If you need to cut a sheet of drywall, you can very easily do it yourself. To do this, use a utility knife to cut the cardboard and a few millimeters of the gypsum layer, and then break it on the corner of the table. Cut off the second layer of paper after the break.
How to seal sheet joints
After installation is completed, it is necessary. When joining entire sheets, the edges must form the required shape, and when installing cut pieces, a chamfer is cut to ensure a triangular seam. 
For filling assembly seam use putty. The joint is reinforced with a painting mesh (serpyanka). Serpyanka is used after filling the seam with putty, then it is puttied clean. To strengthen the corners, you can use reinforcing perforated corners.
If working with drywall requires creating curved structures, you can bend the sheet yourself. To do this, use a spiked roller to make holes in a sheet of cardboard and moisten it generously with water. After 10-15 minutes, the plaster will get wet, and you can give it any shape without any problems.
This technique is often used for and.
Nowadays, not a single apartment renovation can be done without this. practical material like drywall. If you learn how to work with it correctly, you will be able to create amazing designs for hiding communications, creating partitions and zoning rooms.
Drywall is one of the most common building materials, which allows you to speed up the repair process, make it easier and more affordable. Using it you can easily level the walls, ceiling, make arches and even lay the floor. But you need to remember that this is a very fragile material, and therefore you need to work with it carefully. Find out about important secrets This article will help you quickly work with drywall.
Types and names of profiles
This product is excellent for leveling large uneven areas, installing false walls, and other large-scale structures. If you use it as “dry plaster”, then you need to understand that drywall takes up some space in the room, which can sometimes become very disadvantageous for the owner of the room.
Sheets can be fixed with glue
The adhesive mixture is applied in a thick layer to the back side of the drywall in vertical stripes using a spatula. If the surface is uneven, the composition is applied in 15 cm lumps along the edges and in the middle of the sheet. It is important to remember that the glue remains functional for 30 minutes after production, so you should not delay laying the sheets. The protruding sheets must be tapped with a rubber hammer.
No additional drilling is required to attach sheets to metal profiles with self-tapping screws
This is true, but you don’t need to do this work manually; a screwdriver or drill is used for this. Self-tapping screws – with fine thread and countersunk head.
Installation of the frame has its own characteristics
Drill or screwdriver
Screwing in self-tapping screws with a drill requires special skills, and it is also not very convenient, especially when we're talking about about large-scale fastening of sheets. To simplify the work, you can use a special attachment - a bit with a limiter that controls the level of recessing of the self-tapping screw into the surface. For quick fastening pneumatic profiles are suitable.
The edges of the drywall have a certain shape for high-quality smoothing of joints
Yes, the beveled semicircular edge makes it easier to putty the joints; you can also place reinforcing tape along the edges of the sheet, and it will not create bulges along the bases. But what about transverse joints?
- The seams should be located on adjacent panels.
- To fix the horizontal edges from the inside, you need to hem a piece of profile across the joint, about 20 cm. You will need 2 of them for one sheet.
- It is also necessary to remove the cardboard shell along the width, the place of which will be taken by the reinforcing tape.
- The joints are sealed with Fugenfüller or Uniflot putty.
Location of fasteners on the sheet
Along the edge, the screws are placed at a distance of 125 mm, about 20 mm from the end of the sheet. The material is attached to the middle profile in increments of 250 mm, on front side You need to apply marks to indicate the location of the screws. At corners, screws should be secured away from the edge, where greater strength exists.
Drywall should not rest on the floor
In order to avoid subsidence of the structure, it is imperative to leave a gap of about 1 mm between the floor and the plasterboard sheet. It must be placed on the liner using scraps from the same product.
Frame suspended structure the ceiling and walls differ from each other.
In order to avoid mistakes when installing sheets on the ceiling frame structure are presented high requirements. The product is mounted in increments of 400 mm, each sheet is held by 4 profiles. You cannot save on this so that the platform does not sag over time. To attach ceiling hangers to the base one, you must use metal wedges or anchor bolts, but not plastic ones. Use Vernius hangers from Knauf, or attach pieces of the profile rigidly to the ceiling.
The rigidity of a plasterboard partition
You shouldn't skimp on this! To quickly and reliably assemble a frame, you need to use a cutter for a plasterboard profile, which does not leave dents when connecting, does not require marking holes, and makes the edges of the product even and smooth. There is no need to use fasteners.
The frame is sheathed on both sides with plasterboard, and the inside is filled.
Attention:
- The profile must be at least 6 mm for better strength and reliability.
- Screws should be galvanized or stainless steel. They should go into the depth of the sheet by at least 10 mm, into the tree - about 20 mm. It is better to immediately coat the hats with alcohol varnish to avoid corrosion.
- The type of profile is selected depending on the height of the room and the load on the frame. For a 50 kg structure, you need to install a frame with a thickness of 15 mm.
How to avoid gross violations and damage to material
Lightweight ceiling sheets 9 mm thick cannot be used to form partitions. Even when using them direct purpose have to do the right step profile, without various magnifications (this is necessary to save fastening material).
It is forbidden to refuse soundproofing tape when constructing partitions. And also save on fiberglass or mineral wool, forming the inner part of the profile.
It is better to fasten drywall with a screwdriver with a function for adjusting the drilling depth.
You cannot cover concrete walls or bricks with plasterboard. The walls must “breathe”, and therefore, you need to leave a gap of 2 mm between the materials. It can be glued with tape or filled with silicone.
The secrets of drywall are that when choosing it you should pay attention to special markings:
- GH13 – standard;
- GN113 – moisture resistant;
- GEK13 – increased strength;
- GTS9 – moisture and windproof;
- GN6 – for repair work.
For walls, the optimal sheet thickness will be 12 mm, for the ceiling - 9.5 mm (on the ceiling, to avoid cracks, use plasterboard sheets in 2 layers). It is rational to use two layers when there are serious loads on the structure.
Additional accessories for work
Punching pliers. Cutter. To make working with the drywall profile more efficient, you can use a special rack to attach the sheet to the structure. And to transfer large sheets from place to place, a construction lift is used, which does not leave dents and is very convenient to use.
For cutting sheets, a regular paint knife is suitable, which is used to trim the edges of the material. To fix plasterboard shelves it is necessary to use umbrella or butterfly dowels; if the structure is very heavy, then it is important to choose self-tapping screws of the appropriate length to securely fasten the product. But to quickly work with a plasterboard profile you will need.
How to remove a scratch from a sheet
You can use reinforced paper tape, first widen the damage with a knife and lubricate the hole with putty. Glue the tape on top and press it into the plaster with a spatula. This method will help preserve a damaged sheet of building material.
What needs to be done to correctly bend a sheet of drywall and not damage the product
The secrets to quickly working with drywall are in the following steps:
- On outside Make deep cuts into the sheet with a knife, then place the sheet on its edge and bend it.
- On inside make many small holes using a needle roller. Then moisten the sheet with water and bend it after a while.
After breaking off, the surface must be sanded with a block or plane.
To make holes in drywall, it is better to use a circular router bit.
Arch profiles
Such profiles help to build any door arch various architectural solutions. To do this, you need to do on the profiles construction knife cuts in 6 mm increments. Next, put it on drywall, trace the structure with a pencil, then cut it out according to the outline. Attach the profile with self-tapping screws using a screwdriver.
How to make working with drywall easier
If the base on which the sheet is mounted is level, it is easy to drill, for example, the inner part wooden house, then you can attach drywall without a casing, directly. In this case, mounting screws, screws, dowels must be of the appropriate length.
If the house is new, then in order to avoid the structure from settling, it is important to use an aluminum frame; complex shapes are best assembled under the supervision of a specialist.
You can attach the sheets using a solution, which will help remove voids and create a smooth surface.
It is better to mix gypsum putty in small portions for ease of use. There is no need to use high rotary hammer speeds, thereby damaging the quality of the composition. Before hanging the next portion of the mixture, you must thoroughly wash the old solution.
In order to properly attach vertical structures and extend their service life, it is important to screw in the screws at the edges of the sheet at a distance of 20 mm, and in the center - at 30 mm.
These are the simple secrets of installing drywall that professionals advise. They will help not only reduce the installation time of drywall products, but also do the job quickly, firmly and efficiently. But there’s nothing difficult about installing this building material?
Let's look next video“secrets of drywall installation” and create beautiful and reliable architectural masterpieces.
Good luck to you.
Working with plasterboard with your own hands, which can be used to perfectly level walls, or use it to build lightweight, durable partitions, is quite accessible even for a novice builder. Plasterboard is excellent for finishing concrete walls of high-rise apartments and leveling curved surfaces in private houses. This material can reduce high audibility from the street and additionally insulate the building envelope.
The big advantage of drywall over others finishing materials Another advantage is that it can be used to create entire complexes of niches and shelves built into the wall, and to create original arched structures.
Using this material is carried out in two ways - by attaching sheets of plasterboard to the frame sheathing or by gluing gypsum board to the wall using a special installation staff based on gypsum.
If the process of leveling surfaces using plaster solutions requires fairly high skills, and if there are large differences on the walls, even extraordinary skill, then working with drywall in this comparison can be called simple. The main thing in this process is to correctly and accurately perform each of the installation stages.
To put the walls in order without hitches and difficulties, you need to be well prepared for this event by purchasing everything necessary materials and tools, as well as by studying the installation instructions for a particular structure.
Preparing the surface of the walls before leveling will also not be superfluous, especially since it will not take much time and effort, but will be of great benefit.
What will you need for the job?
Tools for installing drywall
To install plasterboard structures you will need special tools, and, gluing the material will require less of them than for attaching it to the frame.
In order not to repeat yourself and not create two lists for each type of work separately, you can include them in one, but with minor clarifications.
- Shurupov rt for mounting the frame and securing drywall to the sheathing.
- Putty knife average size for applying putty and glue.
- Notched trowel for spreading glue over the surface of sheets.
- or a regular building level - for marking and monitoring the evenness of the wall being mounted.
- A sharp construction or stationery knife - for cutting material.
- An electric drill with a hammer drill and drill bits for concrete - for attaching frame structures to ceilings, walls, and floors.
- Mixer attachment for mixing glue (if it will be used to attach drywall to the wall) and putty compounds.
- Paint roller for priming wall surfaces.
- Container for adhesive composition with a volume of approximately 8 liters.
- Metal cutting scissors – for cutting galvanized profiles.
- Planer for processingedges– chamfering.
- Grout for processing sealed joints between sheets.
- Grinder - “grinder” and a disk for cutting thin metal.
- Cutter - for fastening metal profiles together.
- A rule that checks the evenness of a surface.
- Measuring and control tool - tape measure, plumb line, long metal ruler, square, simple pencil or marker.
Materials for working with drywall
Materials you will need to purchase:
- Drywall, which needs to be ordered 10÷15% more than the required quantity.
Drywall is produced in four types, and each of them is intended for use in different rooms depending on operating conditions. The sheets have their own recognized system color coding, by which you can easily determine the intended purpose of the material:
Three main types of drywall - regular, moisture-resistant and heat-resistant — Grey colour It has regular drywall(GKL), used in residential premises with normal air humidity.
— The pink or light purple color of the cardboard indicates that it is a heat-resistant material used for cladding walls around fireplaces and stoves. It is defined by the abbreviation GKLO.
— Green shades are inherent moisture-resistant material, which is suitable for wall decoration, for example, in the bathroom. It is designated by the letters GKLV.
— Dark gray or blue color is assigned to plasterboard, which combines the qualities of both heat resistance and moisture resistance. This type is designated by the letters GKLVO, and it is used for finishing the walls of bathhouses or boiler rooms.
Sheet sizes various types drywall vary as follows:
| Drywall type | Thickness in mm | Width in mm | Sheet length in mm |
|---|---|---|---|
| GKL | 8,0; 9,5; 12,5;14; 16 | 1200 | |
| GKL | 18 and over | 600 | 1200 |
| GKLV | 10; 12,5; 14;16 | 1200 | standard - 2500 (up to 4000 mm on request) |
| GKLO | 12,5; 14; 16 | 1200 and 600 | similarly |
| GKLVO | 12,5; 14; 16 | 1200 | similarly |
- Metal profile for installing wall sheathing or mounting frame partition.
| Profile name | Appearance | Profile brand | Application area |
|---|---|---|---|
| Guide | Mon 50/40 | Frame guide profiles for cladding walls and creating partitions. | |
| PN 75/40 | |||
| PN 100/40 | |||
| Rack-mounted | Mon 50/50 | Frame racks for partitions and wall sheathing. | |
| PN 75/50 | |||
| PN 100/50 | |||
| PP 60/27 | Frame walls and suspended ceilings. | ||
| Guide | Mon 28/27 | ||
| Protective corner profile | PU 20/20 | Protection of external corners of partitions and walls. | |
| Note: in profile markings, the first number indicates the width, the second the height of the element. Profiles are produced in a standard length of 3000 mm. | |||
- Direct hangers - for attaching racks to the wall, if it is necessary to create a large thickness of insulation or to level a wall with large differences.
- Sealing tape that is glued to profiles mounted directly to the wall.
- Dry mortar– mounting adhesive for fixing drywall to walls without installing sheathing.
- before installing drywall and for preparation mounted structure for further puttying.
- Putty on gypsum base- for sealing joints between sheets and subsequent final leveling plasterboard wall.
- Reinforcing tape or mesh - for gluing joints when their puttying.
- Special screws for working with drywall.
- Dowels for securing profile posts to brick or concrete wall, ceiling, floor.
- Thermal insulation material - if you plan to insulate or soundproof wall or partition.
Prices for drywall and sheet materials
Drywall and sheet materials
Preparatory activities
Whatever method of installing drywall on the wall is chosen, it is imperative to prepare the surface before installing it. This must be done so that mold or mildew does not develop under the drywall, and when gluing the material, it fits tightly to the wall. The preparation process is not so complicated, but it will guarantee long-term operation new wall without carrying out repair work.
The work can be roughly divided into three stages - cleaning the wall, sealing cracks and priming the wall with antiseptic compounds.
- The first step is to clean the wall of old coatings, such as old peeling plaster and unnecessary wallpaper. If the plaster is of good quality and adheres well to the wall, then it can only be primed.
- Cleaning can be done using a spatula. If you have to remove wallpaper, it is recommended to wet it intensively by applying water to the surface using a roller with a soft nozzle. When the wallpaper gets wet, it will come off the wall more easily if you pick it up with a spatula.
- If the plaster layer is unreliable, unstable, peeling, or covered with cracks, then the damaged parts must be removed. This can be done in two ways:
- The first option is to knock down old decoration using a hammer drill, or manually with a chisel and hammer.
— The second option is to soak the plaster generously and carefully peel it off the wall with a spatula.
- If a brick wall is to be leveled by gluing plasterboard, then it is imperative to remove all protrusions that could remain on it after the masonry is completed. The protrusions will prevent the sheets from adhering well to the surface. Such irregularities are knocked down with a regular hammer or using a hammer drill.
After that, brick wall need to be thoroughly cleaned with a wire brush to remove any residue. sand-cement mortar and dust.
- Next, if serious cracks are found on the wall, they need to be widened, cleaned, and after it dries, repaired plaster mixture, sealant or polyurethane foam. The last option is applicable if the crack in the wall or plaster layer is large enough.
- The next step is to treat the wall with an antiseptic primer. It is applied using a roller.
Priming is a mandatory step, and it is better to do it in two layers - All further work is carried out after the wall surface has completely dried.
Prices for different types of primer
Primer
Leveling walls by gluing drywall
Installing drywall using gluing is much easier than installing it on a frame. However, this method of fixing the finish is only possible if the wall surface does not have significant irregularities and deformations in the form of protrusions and depressions greater than 5 mm, and the ceiling level in the room does not exceed 3 meters.
This installation method is not suitable even when the wall is supposed to be soundproof or, since the materials for this will require a certain space under the plasterboard sheets.
This method is good for leveling not too quality walls to the ideal and creating a smooth surface for subsequent application or gluing of decorative finishing material.
The gluing work is carried out as follows:
- The prepared wall must be measured using a plumb line and a building level. If dents are found on the wall, they must be brought to the same level with the general surface, since in these places, after installing drywall, voids may form where condensation will collect. This is especially important to do in cases where.
All recesses and dents can be brought to the same level using self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the wall at a distance of 200÷300 mm from each other and to the same level as the entire wall. Then, on top of them they apply plaster mortar required thickness and level it along the heads of the screws and the rest of the surface.
Before moving on to the next stage of work, you must wait for the solution to harden well, since the plasterboard sheet will rest on it.
- The next step is to apply another layer of primer.
The primer will not only protect the wall from various biological influences, but will also create reliable adhesion between the wall, the adhesive and the drywall, which will speed up installation and improve the quality of work.
- Next, the mounting compound is mixed glue solution. To do this, water at room temperature is poured into a container, into which the dry powder mixture is poured and mixed using a construction mixer or a drill with an attachment installed on it. The manufacturer must indicate the proportions of the solution in the manufacturing instructions, which can always be found on the packaging.
It is very important to remember that gypsum-based glue begins to harden very quickly, so it is better to mix it in small portions, otherwise it can be ruined a large number of solution. Once the grasping process has started, it is impossible to stop it, even by adding additional water in an emergency.
- Further, it is necessary to ensure that the sheet of plasterboard does not rest against the floor surface during installation; it must be raised from it by approximately 8–10 mm. Therefore, a strip of such thickness is temporarily placed under the sheet being mounted.
- A sheet of plasterboard is laid horizontally on the floor, and the adhesive mass is applied to it pointwise, in slides, at a distance of 180÷200 mm from one another. After this, the solution is distributed a little, the sheet is lifted, installed in the right place and pressed against the wall.
- The installed sheet of drywall can be adjusted and leveled in the range of 7÷10 mm, for example, by tapping on it building level or a rule. If there is an unclosed space on top (and this is most often the case), then it would be best to cover it with fragments of plasterboard only after completing the installation of whole sheets of plasterboard on the entire wall, giving direction.
- Further, the work proceeds in the same order. All sheets are installed end-to-end, with factory chamfers adjacent. Obviously, there are no additional fragments or chamfers at the cut site. It is not present on the end sides of the gypsum board either. This means that for such joints you need to do it yourself, using a plane or knife.
- After installation is complete, the glue is allowed to dry thoroughly, so the tiled walls are left for about a day.
- After this, you can proceed to sealing the joints. First, it is recommended to treat them with a primer, and then, after the soil has dried, the joints of the sheets are glued with a sickle mesh, which reinforces the joints, and the layer of putty applied on top will not crack.
Apply to mesh-glued joints using a spatula. thin layer putties. It is best to immediately level it as much as possible, so that after hardening there will be less work on smoothing.
If the serpyanka tape does not have its own adhesive base, then serpyanka is first applied to the joint and on top of it, and then pressed into the solution with a spatula, after which the excess is removed.
- When the putty dries, it is rubbed using a special tool - grouting, on which it is installed sandpaper with fine grain or abrasive mesh.
After completing the sealing and drying of the seams, the entire surface is covered with a primer, which must also dry completely.
High-quality putty is the key to the aesthetic appearance of a plasterboard wall
Whatever technology is used when installing a plasterboard wall, the final stage before finishing stands giving surfaces are ideally even and smooth using putty. How to do it correctly or for painting - in a special publication on our portal.
Leveling a wall with plasterboard using a frame structure
Installation on a frame is more difficult, but opens up more possibilities Installing drywall on a frame is a more complex and troublesome option, but you can’t do without it if you plan to additionally insulate the wall and soundproof. The frame can be made of galvanized metal profiles or wooden beam.
| Illustration | |
|---|---|
 | Preparatory work is underway. The wall is cleaned of loose plaster and treated with a primer. When leveling a wall with plasterboard, whether the structure will be with or without insulation, the coating base surface antiseptic composition is necessary. Next, the wall must be marked, marking vertical lines on it, which will serve as a guide for installing the racks. The step between the drains is taken to be 400 or 600 mm - these values fit well into standard width plasterboard sheet 1200 mm. |
 | The next step is to attach guide profiles to the ceiling and floor into which the racks will be installed and secured. |
 | Profiles can be attached to the floor, walls and ceiling using dowels, depending on the surface material - driven or screwed. Profiles can be secured to wooden bases with self-tapping screws |
 | To improve the quality of sound insulation, prevent the transmission of vibrations to the frame and the resonance of the plasterboard covering, before attaching the profiles to the floor, ceiling or wall, it is recommended to stick a special tape on its shelf adjacent to the surface. |
 | Having secured the upper and lower guides to the flow and the floor perfectly precisely in one vertical plane (this must be controlled using a plumb line), you can proceed to installing the racks. It must be remembered that how accurately the guides are set, the entire plasterboard wall will be so even. |
 | The frame posts are installed inside the guides, aligned along the marking lines, they are given a vertical position, and then they are fixed using a cutter. If there is no such tool, then fastening can be carried out using self-tapping screws |
 | On this photo the mounted frame is clearly visible, but it is not yet completely secured to the wall with the help of hangers. |
 | Next, each of the racks must be fixed with several direct hangers. These brackets are fixed to the wall with dowels at a vertical distance of 500÷600 mm from each other. |
 | Then, using self-tapping screws, the racks are fixed to the hangers (the verticality of the profile must be checked again). This makes the structure rigid, connected to the main wall. |
 | In this photo, the racks of the entire frame are fixed to the wall, and the sheathing is ready for further work. |
 | The protruding parts of the suspensions are bent to the sides. When the sheathing is ready, you can lay out all the communication wiring if, for example, you plan to install sockets or switches on this wall. |
 | If the wall will be additionally insulated, then after the installation of the frame is completed, thermal insulation material – mineral wool – is placed between the studs. Next, the insulation must be closed vapor barrier membrane. It is attached to a wooden sheathing using a stapler and staples, and to a metal sheathing using double-sided masking or mounting tape. |
 | After this, they proceed to the installation of drywall. According to the technology, it is recommended to install the bottom sheets with a gap of about 10 mm from the floor - for this, temporary pads can be used during the installation process, for example, wooden slats. This is necessary so that the sheet from below does not begin to crumble under its own weight. Usually the height of the sheet is not enough to cover the entire space of the wall to the ceiling - there will be a section on top that will later be covered with a separate fragment. It is recommended that the sheets, starting from the second and onwards, be laid “in a staggered manner”, so that the horizontal seams are spaced apart: one on top, the next on the bottom, etc. An example is shown in the figure. |
 | Drywall is fixed special screws, which are screwed into profiles directly through the sheet, without pre-drilling. Fastening is carried out in all racks and jumpers (if any). In this case, the self-tapping screw should not be located closer than 10 mm to any of the edges of the sheet. After screwing in, the screw head should “sink” into the drywall by about 1 mm. The pitch between screws is from 250 to 350 mm. If suddenly the self-tapping screw “doesn’t work”, then after removing it, you cannot screw another one into the same hole - you need to step back at least 50 mm. |
 | This photo clearly shows the remaining area that is not filled with drywall, and it needs to be covered. To do this, it is necessary to install a profile cross member between the racks, to which the upper edge of the already mounted sheet and the lower side of the missing fragment will be attached with self-tapping screws. |
 | To fix the crossbar on the racks, you can attach specially made corners from sections of the profile. |
 | The finished crossbar is installed between the posts, pushed halfway under the installed sheet and fastened to the corners using a cutter or self-tapping screws. |
 | Another option for making a jumper. Measure and cut a segment from the profile, equal to distance between the racks plus the width of the rack profile, since the wide part of the crossbar should be located on the racks between which it will be fixed. Then, the side flanges of the crossbar are cut to a distance equal to half the width of the profile and bent outward at a right angle. They will become the shelves through which the fastening is carried out using a cutter or self-tapping screws |
 | A fragment of plasterboard sheet of the required dimensions is measured and cut out. After this, it is mounted on the racks and top part installed cross member. A chamfer is made along the edges of the sheets at the joint using a sharp knife or plane - this is necessary so that the joining line of the fragments can be properly filled. This chamfer is made on all edges where it is not provided for by the design of the sheet itself. The fragments are fastened with self-tapping screws according to the usual rules. |
 | A wall covered with plasterboard should look something like this. |
 | After this, a sickle mesh is glued to all joints, and then they are sealed with putty. In addition, all holes must be puttied away from the heads of the screws so that they do not appear later rusty spots through decorative trim. The final stage of the work is to cover all plasterboard-lined walls with a primer, and after it dries, with putty. |
Installation of a lightweight plasterboard partition
Installation is somewhat similar to wall cladding using a frame structure. But there are also some differences here: the frame is fixed to the walls only at the ends, and is sheathed with plasterboard on both sides.
The frame partition made of gypsum plasterboard has the following basic design:
- The frame is mounted from wooden beams or galvanized metal profiles. The frame racks are mounted at a distance from each other based on the width of the plasterboard sheet, so that its edges are half their width, and at least one rack is located in the middle of the sheet. It should be noted that quite often the frame is made combined, that is, in some places a wooden beam is inserted into the metal profile for rigidity.
- The frame is sheathed on both sides with plasterboard. Sometimes it is practiced to cover one or both sides with two layers of material.
- Soundproofing (insulating) materials are placed between the sheathing sheets. mats– as a rule, basalt mineral wool is used for this.
Installation of a plasterboard partition is carried out as follows:
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation performed |
|---|---|
 | The first step is to determine the location of the partition and mark it. To do this, points are determined on the wall and floor using a laser or regular level and a tape measure, which are then combined into lines using a colored paint cord. |
 | Then, focusing on the line on the wall and floor, using a plumb line, the points for marking the markings on the ceiling are determined. |
 | You immediately need to determine the location of the doorway and make marks on the ceiling and floor to install perfectly vertical racks. The horizontal guide is fixed to the floor only before and after the measured area reserved for the doorway. |
 | After accurately marking all surfaces, the area where the metal profiles are secured will be immediately visible. The first to be fixed to the walls, ceiling and floor are the guides, into which the racks will then be installed. |
 | These elements are secured using dowels (with wooden bases self-tapping screws are used). First, through holes are drilled through the guides, and then dowels are inserted and driven into them (screws are screwed in). |
 | Next, when the frame for the frame is ready, you need to immediately install the racks that will frame the doorway. It is recommended to immediately make inlays from wooden beams into these profiles. The racks are installed from floor to ceiling and secured in the guides with screws that are screwed in on both sides. |
 | It’s even better if two racks combined with beams are installed nearby. This design will make the frame more rigid and reliable. |
 | The next step is to measure and mark the height of the doorway where it will be fixed. cross member, completing its formation. To do this, the profile is cut at the corners, the side parts are bent and secured to the racks. |
 | In order to give rigidity to the crossbar and the entire opening, the crossbar must be additionally connected to a guide fixed to the ceiling with one or two short posts. |
 | Next, all other racks are installed in the guides and fixed in a strictly vertical position using a cutter or self-tapping screws. The pitch between the racks is the same as indicated in the previous instructions - 400 or 600 mm. |
 | After installing the racks, you can proceed to installing the drywall sheets. They are installed and secured according to the same principle as when covering a wall. There is no need to cut drywall in the area of the doorway in advance. It will be more convenient to attach a solid sheet to the frame and make cuts on it with a sharp knife. |
 | The upper side of the resulting rectangle is cut through, and on the longer side, only the cardboard is cut through - then it will break exactly along the cut. |
 | Having finished installing the sheets of drywall on one side, you can start installing communication cables, for which small holes are made in certain places of the profiles - with the expectation that a pipe with wires (corrugated or smooth-walled) will pass through them. It is prohibited to pass cables through holes in galvanized profiles without a sleeve tube. |
 | In the selected location, where the placement of sockets and switches is planned, socket holes are drilled on the installed gypsum board sheets for mounting socket boxes. Cable wiring is supplied to them. |
 | If this was planned, thermo-layering is carried out soundproofing material(mineral wool). Insulation panels or mats must be installed spaced between the studs. |
 | Having completed the soundproofing process, a door frame is installed in the doorway. It is leveled, and if necessary, wedges are carefully driven into the gaps between it and the frame to help fix it in the desired position. Then, it is screwed to the frame posts. If there are sufficiently large gaps around it, they need to be filled with polyurethane foam, wait until it dries and carefully cut off the excess. |
 | After this, the drywall is fixed on the other side of the partition. The installation principle does not change. Drywall on doorway secured and cut in the same way as in the previous case. |
 | The final stage before priming and puttying the entire surface is sealing the joints between the sheets and the holes from the screw heads. |
It is very important to carry out quality work, as they will determine the smoothness of the surface of the plasterboard wall, and this will determine appearance decorative finishing.
Video: master class on building a light frame partition from plasterboard
Working with drywall is a creative process, and if you really feel like doing it yourself, then you can safely get down to business. Having prepared all the tools and materials, as well as having studied the installation instructions, even the hardworking owner of an apartment or house who has not previously had close contact with the construction business can carry out this event.
Tags: Walk-in closet, wardrobe, partition.
Lesson No. 2 - Partition made of gypsum plasterboard (gypsum plasterboard) with shelves. Video tutorial strictly on the technology of constructing frame partitions.
Tags: partition, shelf, frame, gypsum fiber, drywall.
Lesson No. 3 - Three ways to form curved surfaces from plasterboard. Dry and wet bending method on a frame, bending using cuts. Video from Knauf
Tags: wet bending, dry bending, bending according to patterns, bending with cuts.
Lesson No. 4 - Video instructions from Knauf on the construction of a plasterboard partition on a frame made of a rack profile.
Tags: partition, drywall, frame.
Lesson No. 5 - Step-by-step instructions for installing a socket and socket box in a plasterboard wall.
Tags: drywall, socket, socket box, wiring.
Lesson No. 6 - Video on sealing joints of plasterboard sheets on walls and ceilings. Strictly according to technology.
Tags: joints, drywall, putty, finishing.
Lesson No. 7 - Comparison of the strength of a metal profile connection using a cutter and a screwdriver. German test.
Tags: cutter, screwdriver, profile, screw.
Lesson No. 8 - Detailed video instructions for covering walls with plasterboard in a wooden house. Features and nuances when installing a floating frame.
Tags: wooden house, drywall, frame, sheathing.
Lesson #9 - How to seal a doorway using drywall. Detailed video instructions.
Tags: doorway, partition, drywall.
Lesson No. 10 - Video lesson on finishing an attic with plasterboard on a metal frame. Ceiling cladding in a wooden house.
Tags: wooden house, attic, ceiling, drywall, frame.
Lesson No. 11 - Professional recommendations for installing wiring in a wooden house. The nuances of wiring under plasterboard sheathing.
Tags: wooden house, wiring, cladding, drywall.
Lesson No. 12 - Instructions for installing a ceiling in the “Starry Sky” style.
Tags: ceiling, drywall, starry sky
Lesson No. 13 - Video about drywall production technology
Tags: drywall, technology, safety
Lesson No. 14 - Video instructions for applying liquid wallpaper to the wall. Preparation of solution, application technology.
Tags: liquid wallpaper, decoration, walls
Lesson No. 15 - Step-by-step lesson on finishing external and internal corners. Corner putty and drywall finishing
Tags: drywall, joints, corners, putty.