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Hello to all lovers of homemade products, every specialist knows well that the tool has a big role in the work, namely its reliability and build quality. Thinking about this topic, thoughts arise to make an ideal handy tool with your own hands, in this case these are wood cutters, and cutting patterns with their help is quite fascinating activity, which is good news. The main thing in creating incisors is to be more careful, since you will have to work with sharp objects, namely the cutting part. The author's idea to make wood cutters with his own hands was accompanied by the fact that in the vicinity this instrument was not, and in the local stores they were not there either.
Properties that should have good knife for wood carving are as follows:
High-quality steel for increased knife life and long-lasting sharpness.
Ergonomic (comfortable) handles.
Relative ease of manufacture.
Reliability.
To create this homemade product, you do not need any hard-to-find materials, they should not be here, since it was planned in advance that all the details would be easily accessible to most carpenters and woodworking enthusiasts.
Required materials and tools:
* Pieces band saw, made of durable steel, which from experience confirms their long shelf life sharpening.
* Remains oak planks left over from past works, since oak itself is durable, beautiful and technological material in its own way.
Of the tools you will need:
* Electric sharpener.
* Belt sander with grit about 40, as well as sanding paper (grit 80, and for finishing - 240, 800 and 1000).
* Hacksaw.
* Respiratory protection - respirator (gauze mask).
* Joiner's glue.
That's all the details with the right tools ready, now let's proceed to the phased assembly.
Step one.
The first step is to make a blade. From pieces of a saw blade with a length of about 8 cm, the author turned metal blanks of blades of the desired shape, and for the blanks he supplied shanks, their length is about 4.5-5 cm, these dimensions guarantee sufficient strength of fastening the blade in the handle.
For greater reliability of fixation (protection against loosening and falling of the knife from the handle), I made semicircular cutouts on the sides of the shank.
The section of the knife blade has a wedge narrowing, the angle of which ranges from 10 to 15 degrees from the butt to the cutting edge, which is the descent of the blade. well and cutting edge is given to such a shape by a small chamfer, that is, by a large narrowing, and therefore an angle already at 25-30 degrees near the blade of the blade.
A large chamfer on the knives must be done even before the shank is not glued into the handle. The shape of the chamfer must be given on both sides, while observing a certain angle, the metal must be grinded symmetrically. It is known from materials science that with intensive turning, the metal heats up, which causes its tempering, and this leads to the fact that the metal becomes softer and loses its ability to maintain sharpening. To prevent this from happening, the workpiece to be turned periodically needs to be cooled in water, thereby avoiding overheating. It is most convenient when a container with cold water is located nearby and it is not difficult to lower the workpiece. To finally shape the blade, as well as sharpen and polish it, you need to install the handle, which will actually happen next.
Step two.
After long work with the metal, we turn to the manufacture of the handle; for this, oak bars were well suited, the dimensions of which were 12 by 22 mm in cross-section, and the length is slightly more than 120 mm. These bars have been selected so that the surfaces to be bonded are even. To simplify the work, we make a sample of the socket for the shank in one of the halves of the future handle.
First, the shank is processed with a sander around the edges in order to get rid of burrs. Then, attaching the shank to the prepared bar, draw around it with a pencil. With the help of chisels, we select the nest to a depth that is equal to the thickness of the workpiece, periodically assembling the assembly dry to check the adherence of the bars to each other. In the case of insufficient depth of the socket, the handle either does not stick together, or if it does not fit well, it will simply crack during use. Also, too deep a socket will lead to the fact that the blade will walk from side to side, which leads to undesirable consequences, namely, cracking of the handle or deformation of the shank. Therefore, when sampling the shank socket, be as accurate as possible.
After you have made sure during the control assembly "dry" that all the parts fit tightly, in this case the shank, and also in the absence of gaps between the handle halves, then you can proceed to gluing. We apply the joiner's leu on the surface of the bar and in the socket for the shank, since it is unrealistic to achieve accuracy in depth with manual sampling of the socket, then just in case it is better to fill it with glue, after which the shank will dry out due to its hardness, in case of inaccuracy. Glue must also be applied to the adjacent part of the handle, but in a smaller layer.
Step three.
Then we combine the parts (you need to connect the ends of the blocks located closer to the blade as accurately as possible), and tighten them with clamps. Remove excess glue with a damp cloth and leave for 12 hours until completely dry.
Step four.
Now we will adjust the handle to the appropriate shape for cutting tool, usually this is a slight bend in the back for support thumb.
But you cannot do without the features of these pens, they differ in that
their rear part is wider and more rounded than the one closer to the blade, because of this, all the blanks for the handles in the first stage of processing look more like a truncated elongated pyramid, and there is also a notch for the index finger.
After gluing the workpiece, the back part is sawn off with a hacksaw, to a size of 12 cm.
Then the tape grinder we grind the ends of the handles, do not forget to use the tools individual protection- safety goggles and a respirator, as oak dust can cause allergies.
Grinding is carried out to start with grit 40, and then ascending until the workpiece is smooth.
We cover with nitro varnish.
Step four.
We finish the cutting part, we need a small chamfer, the sharpening angle of which for these knives is about 25-30 °. To form a small chamfer, the author uses sandpaper of different grain sizes, gradually increasing the grain size, starting from 240, going to 800, and then to 1000, in the end everything is polished on a leather belt clamped on a block. If the sharpening is successful, then the wood should be cut both along and across the fibers without attaching special efforts, while the cut surface should be smooth and shiny, the so-called "oil" cut.
Using this manufacturing template, several knives were made, in general they are quite reliable and convenient to use, which is very decent for a layman.
(Continuing the theme "Wood carving behind barbed wire")
Immediately I bring clarity. I'm not trying to glorify camp romance here, but I treat things from a purely practical side... I have heard about the chisel-hatchet, the cutting tool No. 1 in places not so distant, for a long time. But, as already mentioned, there were no familiar carvers from the "zone", and the former inmates-eyewitnesses, straining their brains, drew incisors of such a configuration on paper that appropriate place could only be in horror cartoons. What is funny, the shape of the handle (as it turned out later) was depicted quite accurately, but the geometry of the blade did not want to emerge from memory.
On the Internet, we managed to find only one place where the "hatchet" was briefly mentioned:http://forum.woodtools.ru/index.php?topic=325.75
According to the photo from the previous page of this topic on woodtools.ru, one trial "hatchet" was made, which somehow did not really "come to court", especially since the geometric carving for me, apparently, remained in the past.In the article "Woodcarving behind barbed wire" I already wrote that I would like to talk with a person who has gone through the original camp woodcarving school. And such a person appeared. Even sooner than expected. And not in virtual, but in the very real world, in a completely unexpected way reaching us from afar. (It is probably necessary to guess something else in LJ). And it must be the same - with the legendary "hatchets". Here they are.
The handle of the largest "hatchet" is made of a guitar neck. However, even if it was made of a Stradivari violin, I was more interested in the blade and the techniques of working with a chisel in relation to relief carving. After "testing" the middle cutter for several hours, I made my tool in its likeness, changing only the shape, size and finish of the handle to a more familiar one.
Blade - steel R6M5 2 mm thick. Sharpening - double-sided wedge. The sharpening angle depends on the hardness of the wood being processed and is selected experimentally, from larger to smaller, along the cut at the end of the board from the working material. Handle - birch, burnt gas burner black and then sanded sandpaper until the charred layer is removed. No lacquer or oil coating is used. Such a handle sits very comfortably in the hand and does not fill up calluses. From my own experience, I can say that the palm does not sweat even with 9-10 hours of almost continuous work.
The geometry of the blade and the shape of the handle make it possible to use the "hatchet" as a fairly versatile tool. He cuts both "on himself" and "from himself." The cut can be made with the "heel" ("heel away from you" is, in fact, the main and most frequently used cut), or with the "nose". Cleaning of verticals in grooves - "inverted nose". Various bulges cut well with the middle of the blade.
The speed of work, the depth and cleanliness of the cut with the "hatchet" can be very high, but this already depends not only on the tool, but also on what hands it fell into.
Wood carving is challenging and exciting. It allows you to create unique crafts, decorate your home, make gifts to friends and acquaintances.
Also the thread will be a constant source positive emotions, and for some - even generate income. For children, this hobby will be a great way to take free time and will develop artistic thinking.
Most often, wood carving tools are made. This happens for three reasons:
- Firstly, it is rare to find a good cutter on sale.
- Secondly, many cannot afford it, especially adolescents and children who are fond of carving. Most often, incisors are sold in sets, have high price and half of them are unlikely to ever be needed.
- Finally, the third reason is that experienced carvers prefer to make a tool “for themselves”.
DIY woodcarving tools (drawings) can be divided into three types - knives, chisels and graters.
A knife is a tool that works with a straight or curved cutting edge.
Cutting of wood takes place under a force directed mainly across the axis.
A carving chisel is a tool that directs force along an axis, similar to the principle of a conventional carpentry chisel.
Shtikhel is a tool that is a kind of chisel. First, it cuts into the wood, and then there is a "tearing" of a small layer of wood with the skillful movement of the carver. All kinds of klukarzy belong to shtikhels - a special instrument popular in Transcarpathian woodcarving.
Starting Simple - Geometric Thread Cutter
Geometric thread is the simplest type of thread.
She will be the best choice if you just want to try your hand at carving by.
Despite the apparent simplicity, it allows you to create drawings with a "three-dimensional" effect.
It is also a national art craft in Russia, Karelia and Finland.
Geometric threads do not require a lot of hand "hardness" like chisel threads. It consists of simple elements- chips and triangles.
It is easier to make a tool for carving wood with your own hands than for any other. Objectively, this is the only tool that can be made at home without the use of forging.
Cutter for geometric thread Is a knife. Outwardly, it looks a bit like a slant-blade leather boot knife, but that's where the similarities end. The main difference is the blade width and the cutting angle of the knife.
The width of the cutter for a geometric thread should be about 2 cm, however, this will depend on the size of the chips that you intend to cut.
The angle of the "bevel" of the cutter should be quite steep, almost straight - from 80 to 70 degrees. It is undesirable to work with a too "sharp" nose - the cutter during such work will close the drawing and you will not be able to see what you are doing. In addition, too large angles will constantly break the tip of the incisor with awkward movements.
Blade material
Most the best option- make the cutter forged from a bar.
The part of the blade protruding from the handle should be forged from the circular section into a flat knife.
It will cover the drawing less when.
Unfortunately, most carvers do not have access to the forge and do not have the forging skill.
For them, it will be optimal to make a tool for carving wood with their own hands from an old blade of a hacksaw for metal.
The blade is made of R6M5 steel, sometimes - of carbon steel. It has a width of 25 ... 50 mm and a thickness of 2 to 5 mm. If possible, take a blade with a width of 25 and a thickness of 3 mm, it is optimal for the cutter.
How to cut the canvas the right size and at the right angle? After all, it is hardened! You don't need to cut anything. Clamp the canvas tightly in a vice under the desired one.
Then, with a hammer blow, simply break off the blade as needed - in the overwhelming majority of cases, the break will occur along the line of clamping the vise jaws.
Then straighten the cut line with an electric sharpener and pre-sharpen the cutter. Fixation of the blade in the handle is carried out with the help of teeth that used to cut metal. It is best to do this by drilling holes and hammering rivets, but due to the hardness of the material, it will be extremely inconvenient to drill.
Perhaps you will find another, more suitable one. The main thing is that it must be made of high quality steel. Some people make incisors by sharpening from files or from surgical instruments, from the blades of knives to strip wire insulation. Excellent incisors come from broken disc cutters for metal from steel R18. All of these methods are good.
About homemade wood tools - in the video:
All photos from the article
In the arsenal of any craftsman engaged in the manufacture of decorative objects, there are sure to be wood cutters for handmade... These devices can be very different, and therefore it is advisable for beginners to familiarize themselves with their main types, as well as study the features of choosing and caring for such a tool.
Carving attachments
General principles
Wood carving is a fairly popular technique for decorating various products.
As a rule, the process itself takes place according to the following scheme:
- First, a blank is made from wood, whether it be a flat board, a deck or a curly blank.
Note! Sometimes with help. In this case, a fragment is selected, the shape of which has the maximum decorative potential.
- Then a rough leveling of the workpiece surface is performed, during which all defects are removed from it.
- After that, the surface is processed with special cutters, with the help of which part of the wood is selected. Due to this, a decorative relief is formed.
- After completion of the actual thread, the finishing- grinding of cut-out areas, impregnation protective compounds, full or partial painting, varnishing, etc.
Most important tools in this process are cutters for wood carving. In addition to the skill of the carver himself, it is from the quality and correct selection cutter depends on how clean the ornament or subject image on the wood will turn out.
That is why below we will look at the main types of such tools and describe where and how they are used.
The main types of incisors
To create volumetric images, masters use the most different types wood cutters. In principle, if you have the skill, you can do without some of the products listed below, but to achieve the best result, it is better to collect as extensive a set as possible and use each device for its intended purpose.
The main types of incisors are presented in the table below:
| Variety | Application in work |
| Jamb knives |
|
| Chisels | The most common type of incisor. A typical chisel is a long shank with a cutting edge formed at the end. Depending on the shape of the edge, chisels are:
|