Sour and moist soils, especially those infested with wheatgrass, are the wireworm's favorite habitats. The larvae cause the greatest harm to root crops, especially potato tubers.
Wireworm control agents
You need to start with tillage. For a successful fight against the wireworm, it is necessary to carry out an autumn, sufficiently deep (up to 25 cm) digging of the earth.
Such digging gives very good results, with the introduction of wood ash, in late autumn before the onset of frost.
It is also a good idea to spread small piles of manure or straw all over the plot and remove them after frost. In this way, many more larvae of these pests can be destroyed.
In the spring, an additional shallower excavation should be carried out. During these works, it is necessary to clean the removed soil from larvae, pupae and beetles.
Reducing the acidity of the soil can be achieved by adding lime, chalk, crushed eggshell, ammonia mineral fertilizers.
Constant weed control, especially wheatgrass and the planting of legumes: peas, beans, beans, will help you in the fight against wireworm.
Wireworm Lures
Others effective remedy bait is used to destroy this pest. You need to harvest the bait a few days before planting the potatoes.
Sow the seeds of wheat, corn or oats into nests, and when they germinate, dig them up together with the larvae. These baits can be made from slices of raw potatoes, beets or carrots, which are placed on sticks 25 cm long.
They are buried so that the ends of the sticks remain on the surface, and every 2-3 days they are removed to collect all the larvae. This method can be used all summer long.
Another method can be used to combat adult beetles. Place the bait at the bottom of a half-liter jar and bury it in shady place to the neck. For each hundred square meters you need 10 such cans. Every 3 days, you need to collect beetles and change the bait.
Another simple, but quite effective method is to lay out the rotted material into small depressions. It is best to do this on those areas of land where you expect the largest concentration of larvae: such a wet shelter will attract many beetles. After a few days, you need to collect and burn everything.
In general, working with baits requires care, but the effectiveness of this method is obvious.
How to protect potato plantings from wireworms
Most of the wireworm larvae live in those areas where the roots are densely intertwined, so you should not plant potatoes next to lawns sown perennial herbs or next to an uncultivated part of the site.
When planting potatoes, the prepared holes should be watered with a solution of potassium permanganate at the rate of 5 g of powder per 10 liters of water. For every 20 holes you need 10 liters of solution. This is enough effective method if the soil infestation by pests is not very high. In this case, planting lettuce between the potato rows is also good for getting rid of the wireworm. The larvae, feeding on its roots, will not touch the potato.
It is good to water the potatoes with a solution 2 times a week, which includes: celandine (100g), dandelion (200g), nettle (500g), coltsfoot (200g) per 10 liters of water.
If the degree of soil contamination is high, in this case nitrogen-containing fertilizers will come to the rescue: ammonium sulfate, ammonium chloride, ammonium nitrate.
Potato seeds, before planting, can be treated with Aktara and Prestige solutions in accordance with the instructions.
Wireworm control chemicals
If the described methods of struggle do not lead to the desired result, you will have to use special chemicals. These include: effective, but highly toxic "Bazudin", as well as "Diazinon", "Thunderbolt-2", "Medvedoks-U", "Calypso". These funds should be used in accordance with the instructions.
Good results are obtained by laying out Provotox granules in each well next to the tubers. "Provotox" is gradually distributed in the soil and reliably protects plants, providing a long-term effect.
"Nemabakt" belongs to the newest preparations for the fight against wireworm. The drug is obtained as a result of symbiosis of a predatory nematode (variety round worm) and bacteria. A nematode, penetrating into a wireworm, releases a bacterium that destroys its insides, and they, in turn, are eaten by a nematode.
At the same time, the nematode does not harm earthworms and other beneficial soil inhabitants. It is not dangerous for humans and animals. "Nemabakt" will become your faithful assistant in the fight against the wireworm. In addition, the Zashchita soil has been developed, which is already inhabited by nematodes.
Weeds that contribute to the spread of pests can be controlled with the Lazurit selective potato herbicide. By destroying weeds, it does not harm the culture itself. Lazurit removes weeds at the germination stage. It is effective against even such stubborn weeds as ragweed, quinoa, marsh, dandelion, chaff, colza, starweed.
Harm received in the garden from the wireworm
The wounds inflicted on young tubers by small larvae are healed and look like funnels on already adult tubers.
Older larvae cause much more harm; they can gnaw through the potato tuber. Pathogens of fungal and bacterial diseases can penetrate through the damaged surface. This can lead to rotting of the tuber during storage.
The gluttony of the larvae depends to a large extent on weather conditions. If the formation of tubers occurs during the dry period, then the larvae, in search of moisture, are especially actively introduced into the tubers. That's why early varieties potatoes, the tubers of which are formed in sufficiently moist soil, are less damaged by wireworm than later varieties.
Thus, in the fight against the wireworm, timely adopted agrotechnical measures tillage, use of baits, special preparations. During dry periods, care should be taken to maintain moisture in the soil.
And also, do not rush to get rid of toads on their site, they, like ground beetles, love to feed on wireworm larvae and will provide you with invaluable help in the fight against this pest.
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Before we tell you how to deal with a wireworm in a garden, let's figure out what kind of insect it is, in fact? So, this is how the small and large larvae of the future are called - this is a small worm (2 cm long) of yellow or light brown color, godlessly destroying our harvest (for example, potatoes).
and habitat
The developmental cycle of the wireworm lasts for 5 years. In the first year, small light brown larvae appear, in the second and third years they grow, increasing in size, and in the fourth they become pupae. The latter, after 3 weeks, turn into full-fledged click beetles. The fifth year of the life of this pest is marked by the laying of new eggs.
The wireworm in the garden selects acidic and moist soil, dense plantings and weeds that were not removed in a timely manner. She hates thickets of legumes: peas, beans, beans.
"Combat" unit
Before we tell you how to deal with the wireworm in the garden, I would like to make a small disclaimer. Remember! Wireworm larvae coexist with pupae and adult beetles! This is a full-fledged "combat unit": small and large larvae, pupae and, in fact, clickers.
How to get a wireworm out of the garden?
It will not be easy to do this, but it is possible! Remember that the fight against this pest occurs in two ways: agrotechnical and chemical.
How to deal with a wireworm in the garden? Agrotechnical methods
How to deal with a wireworm in the garden? Chemical methods
- Apply ammonium fertilizers to the soil before sowing root crops and planting potatoes.
- Water the soil with a mild manganese solution.
- Use the insecticide Bazudin (Diazinon). Based on the following dosage: 40 g per square meter soil. This is a great option for dealing with a wireworm in the event that the pest has taken over your entire garden.
And finally
Note that chemical methods much simpler than agrotechnical ones, however, it is advisable to resort to them only if due to their toxicity (for example, the drug "Diazinon" is poisonous to humans and animals). That is why, if the number of wireworms in your garden is relatively small, limit yourself to agrotechnical methods! Good luck!
In order to know the enemy by sight, it is necessary to have an idea of what a wireworm looks like. These are adult larvae of click beetles (lat.Elateridae), which got their name from their very strong and rigid body, like a wire - they cannot be crushed with your fingers. The larvae are colored yellow, brown, dark brown and reach sizes 10-45 mm in length. The development cycle of beetles is five years. Click beetles come to the surface of the soil in April. Oviposition is carried out in the ground, to a depth of 1-3 cm. One female can lay 120-150 eggs. After two to three weeks, small larvae appear, colored in White color and easily vulnerable. At this time, ground beetles can destroy them. They are not yet capable of harming cultivated plants.
As they grow, approximately in the second year of life, the larvae of the click beetle acquire a yellowish or brownish color, their body becomes more and more rigid. In this state, they are eaten by chickens and insectivorous birds. And it is at this age that they cause the greatest harm to plants. Wireworms live in the upper layers of the soil - at a depth of up to 5 cm. Under unfavorable weather conditions, they deepen by 50-60 cm. The larvae pupate in the middle of summer of the fourth year of life. Adult beetles appear in 15-20 days. They hibernate in the ground.
Did you know? Wireworms are practically omnivorous. In search of food, they can move in any direction for long distances.
What crops does wireworm damage?
The most adored delicacy of the larvae of the click beetle is potatoes. Also his favorite plants are beets, carrots, barley, wheat, corn. They damage onions and sunflowers. Of the weeds, wireworms adore creeping wheatgrass. The larvae feed on seeds, shoots, roots, the underground part of the stem, roots and tubers. Plants that have been damaged by wireworms stunt growth and lower yields. Potato tubers affected by this pest are not suitable for planting, because they quickly rot. In addition to agricultural crops, wireworms also harm garden and forest crops.
Did you know? Wireworm actively spreads on damp and acidic soils, in a thickened vegetable garden littered with creeping wheatgrass.
Now you can easily recognize the wireworm and have an idea of what it is dangerous pest, capable of causing such enormous harm - up to the destruction of most of the crop. Next, we will consider the most effective measures, which help rid the garden of the larvae of click beetles.
Preventive measures and agrotechnical work on the site
There are three ways how to get the wireworm out on the site:
- agrotechnical;
- biological;
- chemical.
The greatest effect in the fight against wireworm can be achieved by applying several methods at the same time. In order to avoid the appearance of pest larvae in your garden, you must follow the rules of agricultural technology. Since beetles and larvae hibernate in the soil, deep digging is shown on the ground in the garden, as well as moldboard plowing. They are produced in October, towards the end of the month. These procedures remove the wireworms to the surface of the soil, where the first frost will destroy them.
Important! Autumn processing soil will allow to reduce the number of pests by 50-90% within two to three years.
It is also important to destroy plant residues of cultivated plants and creeping wheatgrass - by hand pulling out its rhizomes. In no case should potato tubers be left in the ground for the winter. Indeed, in this way, you will provide food to the pest for winter period... But, on the contrary, it is necessary to deprive him of this pleasure. Do not neglect one of the main rules of agricultural technology - the timely destruction of weeds. In addition to wheatgrass, you should definitely get rid of burdocks. Moreover, they should be destroyed along with the roots, since it is there that the larvae like to dwell. In May-June, surface loosening of the soil is used. Luring natural enemies of the click beetle is also a preventive measure. These include insectivorous birds: turtle dove, rook, thrush, crow, starling, wagtail. Also beetles and larvae are eaten by frogs, ground beetles, spiders, ants.
Reducing soil acidity (liming)
The wireworm loves to live in acidic soils, so one of the prevention methods will be to reduce the acidity of the soil by adding lime, coal dust, chalk, wood ash. Lime is sprinkled directly on the beds, or introduced into the planting holes. Onion peel and ash are also added to the wells.
Sowing cereals, legumes, mustard
Crop rotation
Correct crop rotation allows you to completely expel the wireworm from the garden. The fact is that over time, the soils are depleted, everything settles in them. large quantity diseases and pests. Therefore, it is not recommended to plant the same crop or its relatives in the same place every year. The earth must be allowed to rest for three years. In addition, if, for example, next season a crop is planted on the site of a potato that wireworms do not eat, then many of the individuals will die of hunger while they find food elsewhere. It is recommended to plant the following crops before potatoes: spinach, legumes, rapeseed, mustard, buckwheat. They must be alternated for two to three years - during this time the wireworm will leave.
Beetle bait
Beetles and larvae can be lured with baits. For example, they are prepared as follows. In late April - early May, when wireworms are still feeding on weeds, they make small depressions in which they place half-matured grass, straw or hay. Cover with boards from above. In search of food, the larvae will move into these traps. After one or two days, when the grass and straw are massively chosen by pests, it is removed and destroyed by burning. To achieve the effect, the procedure is carried out several times.
Such baits can be made from cut potatoes, pieces of carrots, beets. They are buried in the ground to a depth of 7-15 cm at a distance of 1 m from each other one to two weeks before planting young crops. Later, they are also dug up and destroyed along with the larvae. Places of burying traps are indicated by signs. Potatoes can be strung on sticks in for fishing line. Jars filled with young potato leaves are also used.
They are placed in the amount of 10 pieces per one hundred square meters. The contents of the cans are renewed every two to three days. Also, lettuce leaves are planted between potato bushes as a trap. First, wireworms will destroy the roots of this particular plant, which will allow the potatoes to be untouched for a while. Helps get rid of pest and shredded eggshell... It is scattered throughout the garden throughout the summer. Baits are a laborious method, but safe for environment and allows you to significantly reduce the number of pests in the garden.
Before plowing or during planting potatoes, you can add a composition prepared as follows. Spread 5 kg of superphosphate granules on a foil. Dilute the pesticide (Actellic (15 ml), Karate (1 ml), Decis extra (4 ml)) in a water-acetone solution (80 ml of water, 200 ml of acetone). Spray the granules on polyethylene with the mixture, dry and spread over the area. The mixture consumption is calculated for 100 sq. m. After this procedure, the soil must be dug up.
Important! Using a wireworm insecticide is a last resort and should only be used if other methods have not worked.
In the event of a massive wireworm outbreak, other chemicals may be used. The most undesirable among all methods is the introduction of the drug "Bazudin". Consumption - 40 g / 1 sq. m. Active substance, which is part of this agent - diazonin, is highly toxic to humans and the environment. 5% diazonin is also added to the wells at planting (30 g / 10 sq. M). Prestige belongs to a number of insecticides used in the mass distribution of wireworm (destroys up to 50-70%). However, its use is possible only on mid-late and late varieties, otherwise there is a great risk to human health. In addition to the wireworm, it also helps to cope with the Colorado potato beetle. The drug "Provotox" is aimed only at getting rid of the wireworm. With its help, potato tubers are processed before planting.
How to get rid of a wireworm in the garden? This question worries many summer residents. The pest is happy to make holes in beets, carrots, potatoes. He also does not disdain corn and barley.
The fight against him is complex. All methods are divided into two types: agrotechnical and chemical. On the net you can find the most extraordinary ways. Some are questionable, so let's figure it out.
Agrotechnical measures
Compliance with crop rotation. Every year, transfer plantings to another place, while returning to the old one no earlier than after 4 seasons. It is good if the area of the site allows you to do this. But some gardeners are forced to plant, for example, potatoes for many years in a row in the same place.
The life cycle of the click beetle is 5 years. Of these, for 4 years he is exactly the larva, the very wireworm. Therefore, the method only works with a five-year crop rotation.
Humidity. The wireworm loves moisture in the soil. With its lack, the larvae die. Well, yes, in the dry summer of 2010 almost all summer residents of the country complained about him. And only those who had the opportunity to constantly water their plantings did not see this nasty worm in their eyes.
Accordingly, the larvae love dry soil. With normal humidity, the wireworm cannot always find food. And when he is elevated, he loses the ability to move and suffocates.
Hence the conclusion - throw all your strength into normal watering. Otherwise, you will again collect the remnants of perforated root crops.
Weeding. Very often you can see the following picture: beautiful well-groomed vegetable gardens, and on the borders between them - thickets of wheatgrass, burdocks, sow thistle. And then the owners complain about the ineffectiveness of the weeding method. They say they have a clean vegetable garden, and the wireworm is raging.
Keep not only the beds clean, but also the stitches between them and adjacent areas. Remove wheatgrass, burdocks and sow thistles. If you need a grassy border between vegetable gardens, then plant it with clover or lupine. The wireworm cannot stand them. Because huge colonies of nitrogen-producing nodule bacteria live on their roots. And the larvae do not like mineral salts and fertilizers.
Joint landings. It is for the above reason that it is recommended to plant in one hole with potatoes legumes... Of course on large area it is problematic to do it. But on small area quite capable of everyone. At the same time, the economy of the seat.
It is only important to remember: if the potatoes are treated with insecticides, then the green shoulder blades of legumes cannot be eaten entirely. But ripe beans, peas or beans are quite suitable for eating after hulling.
If you are still afraid that you will be full of poison, then leave the harvest for joint landings next year.
Traps. Most effective method deliverance. But it is very labor intensive. Although, do you need your harvest in whole? No damage, rot, holes? Then let's get started:
- During the entire gardening season, barley or corn seeds are planted on the affected area. 9-12 holes with a depth of no more than 5 cm are dug for each hundred square meters. 16-18 seeds soaked in an insecticide are placed on the bottom. Sprinkle with earth. As soon as the first sprouts appear, they dig out the contents of the hole, they are surprised at the number of larvae. Then they are taken out of the site and burned. Because crushing a dense larva is very difficult. If you are not squeamish, then you can tear each one in half with your fingers.
- They arrange the same holes, only instead of grains they pour a handful of raw fresh manure or rotten wet grass. Just do not sprinkle it with earth, but cover it with scraps of boards or pieces of slate. After 2 days, you can harvest.
- Cut old roots into medium cubes, soak them in a solution of any insecticide for 2 hours. Then it is instilled into the same wells as described above. There is no need to dig them up, because the wireworm will eat the poisoned treat and die.
- If you are an opponent of using chemicals in your area, then drop in the cubes of root vegetables without presoaking. Then every 3 days you will have to pick out the bait from the pits, take it out of the site. There it must be burned along with the pests. To make them burn well, they are either thrown into a powerful fire, or they are doused with kerosene (gasoline) in the old fashioned way and set on fire.
- Put on a twig, stick or wire over a piece of root vegetable. The structure is buried to a depth of about 12 cm so that a visible tail remains on the surface. In a day or two, you can dig out the "good" and admire the vile guests.
- Lay strips of polyethylene or oilcloth on the beds, grease with thick sugar syrup. Adult beetles and many other pests flock to such a bait. But they will not be able to peel off and run away. Only use this method early spring or autumn, when there is no active summer of bees and bumblebees. Otherwise, they will also stick to the stripes in pursuit of sweets.
- Glass or plastic containers place finely chopped root vegetables, pour in a little liquid sugar syrup. It is dug in on the site so that the neck of the container is at a depth of 1-1.5 cm below the soil level. They check it every day. There will be both wireworm larvae and beetles inside. You do not need to add syrup, then they certainly take a vessel with a narrow neck so that adults cannot fly out.
Planting additives. Some substances are placed in the hole along with the tuber that kill or scare away the wireworm.
- Specialized soil. The packaging says "Protection". It only takes a pinch. This soil contains a predatory nematode that does not harm club or other insects. But he loves to feast on wireworm larvae very much. You can also pour such soil into the garden. thin layer before sowing beet and carrot seeds. Sometimes one application every 4 years is enough. The nematode destroys 70 to 99% of the larvae.
- Eggshell, finely ground. Mixed with aromatic sunflower oil in a ratio of 1 to 1. A dessert spoon is enough for one hole. Having tasted such a treat, the wireworm dies almost immediately.
- Handful onion peel or dry citrus peels. Also pay in at boarding. According to reviews, it scares away many pests well.
- Dry pine or spruce needles. Matchbox for one landing hole.
Salt. Simple kitchen table salt. It is generously scattered over the surface of the earth, then harrowed. The wireworm leaves such soil quickly. But the procedure can be repeated only after 7 years, not earlier. Otherwise, together with the pest, the lion's share of the harvest will go away.
Digging. In the fall, after the onset of the first stable frosts, they plow deeply or dig up the soil. The pupated larvae and adults lying down for the winter will die from frost. In this case, the processing depth should be at least 16-18 cm, otherwise there will be no use.
In the spring, immediately after the ground thaws, but before the start of the main plantings, it is recommended to dig up the beds again, while carefully breaking large lumps... Sunlight is harmful to overwintered larvae. And the rest will be picked up by birds.
Chemical measures
Liming. This nasty insect adores acidic soils. Therefore, be sure to deacidify the soil regularly. This can be the introduction of lime, chalk, dolomite flour, ash. Only ash should be from deciduous trees.
Legendary potassium permanganate. Before planting, spill the soil with a warm pale pink solution. Plant and sow cultivated plants it is possible not earlier than one day after such treatment.
In early spring, immediately after warming up the soil and in August, after harvesting, they do not wait for the pest to crawl away to other feeding places. Thoroughly spill the earth with a strong maroon solution, with a temperature of about 80 ° C. Etch at the same time most pathogenic bacteria and pathogenic microbes.
Pre-planting treatment of tubers. They are sprayed with special long-acting preparations. Within 56-58 days, there is a protection against pests. After this period, the wireworm will attack the landings again. However, if during these two months you carried out other activities, then it is quite possible that there will be simply no one to devour the crop.
Mineral salts. Introduction of ammonium sulfate before planting in the ground. For 1 sq. m. 16-18 g of fertilizer is enough. Spread evenly over the soil surface and close up with a flat cutter, rake or harrow. Subsequent watering or natural rain will allow the mineral salt to penetrate deeper layers. The larvae do not like such additives very much. Can be replaced with ammonium nitrate. The dosage is identical.
There is a recipe that, according to reviews, also helps a lot. It must be diluted in 10 liters of water 2 ml ammonia... Water the plantings under the root with this solution. Up to half a liter per plant. Processing is carried out once a month.
- Plant tagetes (marigolds) around the perimeter of the site and, if possible, in the aisles. You cannot get rid of the larvae, but adults bypass such beds.
- Do not leave food to the wireworm during the winter. That is, remove absolutely the entire crop from the site. Many gardeners do not harvest small root crops, perhaps they will rot during the winter. This by itself, but before decay, they will have time to feed a considerable number of larvae. So dig up even the smallest carrots and potatoes.
- The land should not be empty. Look in nature, is there a bare patch of soil anywhere? No. So, after harvesting, your site must be sown with siderates. Best of all, clover, rye, mustard... In the spring, all this stuff must be dug right up with stems and leaves. This will also give you a good dose of natural organic fertilizer... This will increase the nitrogen content in the soil. After such an addition, the wireworm will bypass your beds, nitrogen is not to the taste of the larvae.
- If you have chickens in your backyard, then do not burn the worms collected in the traps. Give them to your birds, let them feast on.
Otherworldly forces
There is a recommendation to sprinkle the area with holy water or read conspiracies. Interesting advice... We do not diminish the importance of such procedures for those people who believe in their effectiveness. We just call to remember the famous folk wisdom: "Trust in God, but do not make a mistake yourself." One sprinkling of holy water or abandoned words will not be enough if you then sit down with folded hands. You can wait for getting rid of the misfortune for a very long time if you do nothing yourself.
How to get rid of a wireworm in the garden? The most important thing is to comply with the full range of measures for five years. Because after destroying the first wave of maggots, you will be delighted and fold your handles. But they will be replaced by grown individuals. Do not give up, and soon you will be able to clear your garden from this unpleasant misfortune.
Video: how to defeat a wireworm