How to disassemble a wrist quartz watch pull out the shaft. DIY watch repair - instruction for novice craftsmen

Disassembly is carried out in the following sequence:

Remove the back cover of the case (the most convenient way is to pick it up with a knife; some covers can be unscrewed). As a rule, faults such as a broken spring, broken or bent wheels, loose screws are visible immediately.

If, upon a cursory inspection, everything looks whole, you should remove the mechanism from the case. To do this, you first need to lower the mainspring; This is done in the following way: the crown is pulled back to the extreme position (the moment of the winding) and held by tweezers, while the crown at this time gently rotates with the fingers. Then the winding shaft is removed. To do this, set it to the position of the arrows and loosen the screw of the switching lever. Then the mechanism is removed from the case and the winding shaft is put back in place. In some models, the watch case is designed so that the movement can be pulled out without removing the winding shaft.

Check the rotation of the central wheel with tweezers (whether it moves freely and does not come into contact with surrounding parts). Also check drum, spiral, balance for contact.

Remove arrows, release and remove dial. First remove the second hand, then the minute (most conveniently with tweezers). Then remove the dial with the hour wheel and hour hand. Check the condition of its legs. Inspect the switch mechanism, check the bill and clock wheels, check the grip of the switch mechanism wheels (for this, turning them in the forward and reverse directions). Check if the shift and winding levers are locked correctly.

Remove the balance bridge with balance assembly from the plate. Unscrew the screw of the spiral column by 1, 5-2 turns, separate the balance assembly from the bridge. Having removed the balance from the mechanism, you cannot let it hang at the end of the spiral.

Remove the anchor bridge and the anchor itself (the mainspring must be fully deflated).

Remove the center wheel, intermediate wheel, second wheel and escape wheel. Check their position on the axle and the adhesion between each wheel and the corresponding gear, inspect the teeth.

Remove the drum from the platinum, open it and check the condition of the mainspring.

Cleaning

You can wash the parts of the clockwork in gasoline (preferably in a transparent glass vessel). The gasoline level should not exceed 2 cm.First, larger parts are washed, for example, platinum and bridges, then wheels and others. small parts... Parts are cleaned with a brush, heavily soiled grooves are cleaned with a sharpened stick. The washed parts are blown with a jet of air from a rubber bulb. Cleaned parts should only be taken with tweezers.

Assembly

The watch is assembled in reverse order.

So, we went through the first part. A little bit of tools. The places where the instrument grows was explored. They prepared a workplace for themselves. And in general - while they were doing all this - they walked well in the air and got to know the hot spots and surroundings better. The first part involved quite a lot of movement and attentiveness when hiking - it was necessary to SEARCH. What to look for - FSE! Everything interesting and, in our not yet trained view, is something that might be useful to us and unusual. Something like plushie. What is the result:

Tool. Which one? First, screwdrivers, then tweezers. To them - a binocular loupe, brushes, Petri dishes and needles. We got some oil. Yes, even for sewing machines... Well, there is no other. We believe that we have nothing else. NOT. Everything. We get by with this primitive set. But you shouldn't start without it.

We collected carcasses of hours.

Different. The old ones. Wrist. They just recruited mechanisms - for parts.

They took indiscriminately, everything that is cheaper than the cost of half a pack of cheap cigarettes. This is their price. Half a pack of Belomor or Prima. Trolleybus fare. They shouldn't cost more. Regardless of the state - whole-broken. There are only two criteria. The first is mandatory - not rusty. The second - desirable - to be assembled (all parts are in place) - regardless of the intactness. Trash. We will sort. What do we have?

Women's wrist.

- Star. The old ones. Barrel-shaped mechanism caliber 18 mm. Allegedly in prehistoric times, the French brought to us and assembled the LIP plant. So they are all French.

- Zarya - Penza Watch Factory

- Gull - standard small mechanisms, old enough, but tenacious

- Glory - newer mechanisms

Many other names. All Soviet. THE USSR. Looks like the state cared about the working class - it produced watches. So that they are not late for work. Probably.

Mens wrist Watch.

- Victory... Moscow. Lighthouse. Many watches were produced under these names. We're not talking about watches. About mechanisms.

There are basically two types of mechanisms.

- "high" mechanism - for example 1MCHZ - "Moscow". Central second hand. Most of the watches were assembled on its base - up to the famous "Sport". They stopped when the crown was pulled. Ersatz stopwatch. Older type of mechanism. We do not name the technical caliber - it makes no sense. It is still impossible to order parts for the caliber.

- “low” mechanism is more modern. Side second hand.

Both in the first and in the second case, different factories produced a bunch of modifications of mechanisms - with improvements, simplifications, ras. Suggestions. There were also a bunch of exterior finishes. Satisfied the discerning consumer.

In addition, there is a complete rainbow of other watch movements:

Slava - 2 types of mechanisms, self-winding and non-self-winding. On the Internet somewhere it was indicated - the prototype of LIP-T-15. Again the French.

Complicated watch

With alarm clock

Chronometer

For the blind

Our task is to learn how to disassemble and assemble. Then everyone will go their own way. One will only disassemble. Another will collect 50% and then - as annoyance or peacefully throw it into the trash (usually habits - vodka-dancing will overpower), others - out of anger that it doesn’t work - beat on the anvil with a hammer. Still others will calmly disassemble it again, put it off for a couple of days and try again. This is a normal form of behavior for such an unusual hobby - fine mechanics.

Let's start with a simpler direction - men's wristwatches. They are bigger than women. They can be seen better without a microscope. An example is a "low" Victory. It is the simplest for us. “High” is harder for the first time. The clock circuit is basically identical for all single platinum watches. Therefore, you just need to understand and remember a few fairly simple schemes once. For the first trainings - just sketch what we are analyzing.

Housing:

Back cover.

There are several types of back covers. The whole difference is in the manner of closing.

Slamming. A distinctive feature - usually upon close examination, you can find a flat, into which a knife is driven in order to open it with a strong pressure. In modern electronic consumer goods, a similar lid is very often practiced, but with grooves, as it were, for unscrewing - a good joke. If you don't know - then at least shoot yourself - you can't unscrew it.

Flat in the ring of glass. This is not a cover.

More modern solution - a ledge in the lid.

And a knife just drives in here

Screw, with a screw ring or with a thread on the cover itself.

Or so - along the edge of the lid, the edges are visible.

We unscrew the first option either with the largest tailor's scissors (they are more rigid) or with the sharpened jaws of an old caliper. At flea markets, keys of this kind can often lie in the ruins.

The corporate key (bought in the most ordinary store for modelers - models of steam locomotives, cars, etc. in Germany) looks like this.

A rather rare option in Soviet watches is the bayonet. Turns on small angle and open up.

Bayonet lock on the lid

So the clock was opened. What we see is dirt.

A lot of dirt. We immediately say that we will not deal with a rusty watch. There is no chance. Nothing can be done - everything must be changed. Putting a new one or sharpening a new one. It's too early for us.

Main parts of the mechanism

I - balance.

II - Wheel system

III - mainspring (maybe two - in Glory)

IV - ratchet - they can also be of several types.

What we do first - while the mechanism is in the case - we lower the mainspring. If the head is preserved in the carcass and it can be turned (it is worn to the ground), we try to turn it slightly towards the plant and look at the ratchet. It should turn slightly and slip a couple of teeth. This is what we need - with a needle we support it in the retracted state and without jerking we let the crown turn and dissolve the spring by slightly releasing the crown between the fingers.

Immediately place at least 2 Petri dishes in front of us. Or white plates or flat-bottomed dishes. Diameter 15-20 cm. I use Petri dishes. They are easier to cover during breaks.

We take out the crown. To do this, press the lock with the needle.

We take out the mechanism from the case. Sometimes this is done towards the back cover. In our case, the opposite is true. The ring with glass is removed and the mechanism is removed to the side of the dial.

Shooting arrows

Minute is generally simple - yes even with a screwdriver

Hour and second are a bit of an adventure. Tool - a piece of the relay was torn out (there was some kind of electric relay - there the material on the contact groups is exactly what we need - hard and thin. Bent - and there is the tool we need)

We turn off the balance. The size (caliber) of the screwdriver must match the size of the screw.

The screw was unscrewed and how can this whole assembly be lifted? - and it usually has special grooves into which you can stick a screwdriver and separate the balance plate from the base.

We take the balance like this.

We put everything gradually into Petri dishes.

We unscrew the screws of the mainspring block. There is one trick in the watch - if the screw has many grooves, then it has a left-hand thread.

Under the dial there is a wheel assembly for the hands (I) and the assembly for winding and moving the head from the winding position to the position of shifting the hands (II) (it is called by scientific - remontuar). We disassemble.

We remove the minute tribe. This is the only node in a watch where effort is required. We pull hard enough. If you jumped off - we will repeat. It always comes off with effort. The main thing is not to be afraid.

When disassembling the unit for converting the arrows (remontuar) - special attention to the spring.

She has the opposite property - to click and fly away in an indefinite direction. Against this, a simple technique - cover (press) all of it slightly just with your finger and carefully with a needle from under your finger, "snap out"

We put everything in a Petri dish

Now the longest and most accurate. Washing.

We take a shallow bowl. We pour gasoline there. And mine. Brush and toothpicks. To shine. So that no dirt remains.

For small mechanisms - a squirrel brush. Harder. For large mechanisms - alarm clocks, pocket watches - you can try soft art brushes for oil paints.

Dry: first put on a paper towel after the gasoline. Usually I take a heavy cardboard and put a piece on it. paper towel... So as not to jump and gallop. Choose napkins and towels according to the criterion - the fewer lint, the better.

Let the gasoline soak in. Let's just put it. Then we take the parts with tweezers and blow air from a rubber bulb (enema) to blow gasoline out of the holes. And so consistently all the elements of the clock that lie in a Petri dish or on an impromptu "dryer". Node by node. This is what I mean: if you unscrew the platinum and with it - 3 screws - put them together. We consider - "this is our node". In order not to confuse screws and parts. We put them in the same places in the Petri dish. Or better in a clean cup. Old - then wash and wipe. This is if we do not expect to collect quickly. Or we collect "from the sheet" - from a napkin. But this is with a certain experience, skill and speed of work. Balance. While there is no great experience, we do not analyze it. So we shove the platinum-spiral-balance block into a bath with gasoline and just rinse it for a long time in gasoline. This is clearly wrong. It is necessary to disassemble everything, etc. - WE HAVE NO EXPERIENCE YET. We'll gut for 5-10 hours, and then we'll look at the balance. How he understands. Read books. And do it according to wise books (if it is described in detail there).

Some note about the mainspring. We do nothing. Just wipe the outside with a napkin. We brush the teeth with a brush. We don't do anything else yet. We will have fun with disassembly, lubrication, assembly and replacement of the spring next time. No experience yet. This is difficult.

And now for more intellectual work - to collect the resulting puzzle

Everything is done in the following order:

Mainspring

Wheel system. Let's have some fun too. We placed the gears in the lower stones. They covered it with platinum, and then we need to move the upper plate with tweezers in all directions until the upper axes of the gears hit the stones. A bit dreary but doable. Sometimes you can try to help the process with a thin needle move the gears that you can reach. The basic rule is NO VIOLENCE. Everything should be done without any effort. Over time, everything by itself "clicks" into place and the plate noticeably "falls" down. The clockwork is a rather delicate thing, the efforts are very small, the losses of efforts during operation are also very small, accordingly - it cannot be assembled on tight landings - BY DEFINITION, THERE CANNOT BE. If the top plate does not sit in place, the pinion has not sat in the stones. Or while we were all stirring it, I jumped out of the bottom stone. We repeat once again - EFFORTS CANNOT BE! The criterion for correct assembly may be the following: slightly turn the barrel of the mainspring. LIGHT ONLY - All gears should start turning. This is all - almost effortlessly on the barrel.

We put in place the anchor fork

We put the balance in place.

Lubricate the stones from above - from the side of the back cover. For this we use homemade butter dosing.

We turn the mechanism over, grease all the stones from the side of the dial. Assembling the crown mechanism.

Spring. Another adventure. We press it all over with a wide screwdriver. We put the needle in place. Springs are probably the nastiest thing in all this work. They are jumping. And we will suffer with them a) until we train our hands and b) until we collect the carcasses of the watches from which, without a twinge of conscience, we will carry spare parts.

They put it in place. We don't breathe. And suddenly it pops up.

We collect the wheels of arrows. The minute tribe is strongly pushed onto the pinion axle. Than? Yes, what comes to hand is approximately suitable. How we shot and set. We are resting. You will have to firmly press the tribe until it clicks.

Lubricate. What is there to lubricate - if you have assembled this puzzle - figured out - then you will also have to think about lubrication and lubricate yourself. The basic rule is to lubricate only with oil dosage and to a minimum. All rubbing parts are lubricated. Platinum must be dry. That is why it is a notch in the stones - so that the oil does not spread beyond its limits. Do not grease the stones of the anchor fork. It's early. A microscope is needed.

We put the dial.

We put the mechanism in the case.

Pressing the crown lock, put it in place. We start. Enjoy. MADE!!! YOURSELF !!!

Bogdan Yasinetskiy

[email protected]

Chapter 1. Repair of mechanical watches

Disassembly of watches

Since quite often the reason for stopping a watch is the movement of dirt, drying of oil, penetration of moisture into the watch case, etc., sometimes it is enough to simply disassemble the watch, while washing or lubricating the mechanism. Before disassembling the watch, study the attached diagram (fig. 1).

Figure: one. Kinematic and circuit diagram clock mechanism:

1 - balance;

2 - double roller;

3 - balance axis;

4 - through stone;

5 and 6-galoshes overhead and impulse;

8 - restrictive pins;

9 - anchor plug;

10 - anchor fork axis;

11 and 12 flights, entrance and exit;

13 - spiral;

14 - coil block;

15 and 16 - pins of the adjusting thermometer;

17 - escapement wheel;

18 - through stone;

19 - anchor wheel tribe;

20 - second wheel;

21 - tribe of the second wheel;

22 - second hand;

23 - intermediate wheel;

24 - intermediate wheel tribe;

25 - central wheel;

26 - tribe of the central wheel;

27 - drum;

28 - winding spring;

29 - drum shaft;

30 - xiphoid plate;

31 - drum wheel;

32 - dog;

33 - dog spring;

34 - cam clutch;

35 - winding wheel;

36 - clockwork tribe;

37 - clockwork shaft;

38 - translation lever;

39 - spring of the transfer lever (latch);

40 - winding lever;

41 - spring of the winding lever;

42 and 43 - transfer wheels;

44 - bill wheel;

45 - bill wheel tribe;

46 - hour wheel;

47 - hour hand;

48 - minute hand;

49 - minute hand tribe (minute)

Disassembly is carried out in the following sequence:

Remove the back cover of the case (the most convenient way is to pick it up with a knife; some covers are unscrewed). As a rule, faults such as a broken spring, broken or bent wheels, loose screws are visible immediately.

Check the rotation of the central wheel with tweezers (whether it moves freely and does not come into contact with surrounding parts). Also check drum, spiral, balance for contact.

Remove arrows, release and remove dial.

First remove the second hand, then the minute (most conveniently with tweezers). Then remove the dial with the hour wheel and hour hand. Check the condition of its legs. Inspect the switch mechanism, check the bill and clock wheels, check the grip of the switch mechanism wheels (for this, turning them in the forward and reverse directions). Check if the shift and winding levers are properly locked.

Remove the balance bridge with balance assembly from the plate. Unscrew the screw of the spiral column by 1.5–2 turns, separate the balance assembly from the bridge. Having removed the balance from the mechanism, you cannot let it hang at the end of the spiral.

Remove the anchor bridge and the anchor itself (the mainspring must be fully deflated).

Remove the center wheel, intermediate wheel, second wheel and escape wheel. Check their position on the axle and the adhesion between each wheel and the corresponding gear, inspect the teeth.

Remove the drum from the platinum, open it and check the condition of the mainspring.

You can wash the parts of the clockwork in gasoline (preferably in a transparent glass container). The petrol level must not exceed 2 cm.

Larger parts, such as platinum and bridges, are washed first, then wheels and other small parts. Parts are cleaned with a brush, heavily soiled grooves are cleaned with a sharpened stick.

The washed parts are blown with a jet of air from a rubber bulb. Cleaned parts should only be taken with tweezers.

The watch is assembled in reverse order.

The main causes of malfunction of a mechanical wristwatch and their elimination

If the watch crackles when winding up, the reason may be a broken or worn winding wheel. In both cases, the wheel must be replaced.

The winding wheel may be twisted; to correct this deficiency, it is sufficient to tighten the screws. A skewed or bent winding shaft will have the same effect. The shaft must be replaced.

Finally, dirt could get into the axle of the winding wheel.

In this case, the part must be rinsed.

If the arrows are hardly translated, then the reason is most likely a factory defect in the transfer wheel, which should be replaced.

If the mechanism does not switch from shifting the hands to the factory, it is necessary to check whether the shifting lever is pressed against the water lever (in this case, bend the lever) or whether the spring of the winding lever is loose (the spring will have to be replaced).

If the winding mechanism shuts off spontaneously, this means that the locking part of the spring of the adjustment lever has come out of the groove. Bend the spring down.

If the winding shaft jerks because it is bent, straighten or replace it.

If the spring does not hold in the wound state, this means that the spring of the pawl is broken, which needs to be replaced, or the screw of the pawl is unscrewed (then just tighten it).

If the spring winds up tightly, the winding wheel should be lubricated.

If the watch does not start, it means that the mainspring is out of engagement with the hook on the drum shaft or has burst within the first inner coil.

If, when winding up the watch, the spring goes with difficulty at first, and then breaks, it means that it has burst within 2-3 first turns.

If the minute hand touches the glass or dial at one point, then the axis of the central wheel is bent.

If the watch mechanism works, but the hands do not rotate, which usually occurs due to frequent shifting of the hands, then it is necessary to replace the friction unit (minute watch with a driving wheel).

If a crackling sound is heard when moving the arrows, since the teeth of the bill wheel are broken or bent, it should be straightened or replaced.

If during the winding the arrows rotate quickly, therefore, one of the wheels in the main wheel system has broken. Examine it and replace the broken wheel.

If the wheels rotate hard, clinging to each other, you need to check the gaps between them and see if dust has entered the system.

If the mainspring is broken, which causes it to spin indefinitely when wound, replace the spring.

If the watch is in a hurry and an additional knock is heard, this means that the mainspring is too strong and should be replaced.

If a fully wound watch stops prematurely, the reason is that the spring is slipping in the drum due to too much oil. Rinse the drum in gasoline and wipe the spring with tissue paper.

In addition, the spring head may be erased and must be replaced in this case.

If the clock runs sluggishly, check that the spring is well lubricated and not crumpled.

If the watch is hard to start, it is most likely due to the lack of oil at the point of contact between the spring and the drum. Lubricate the spring.

During the course of the clock, the ringing of the spiral is heard: it periodically touches closely spaced parts.

The calendar does not work correctly for the following reasons: the calendar disc is stuck on the plate due to the fact that it is bent, it is better to replace the disc; rotates with difficulty due to trapped shavings or dust (it must be cleaned off), disc mounting screws are not tightened (fasten), too much or too little oil on the pins of the pusher and the retainer.

If the watch wheel is clamped by the dial, it must be bent.

If the dial wobbles due to poor fixing in the platinum or because of a broken dial stem, the dial screws must be screwed in all the way. If that doesn't work, replace the dial.

If the dial has moved away from the center position, bend the legs of the dial and set it in the center.

If the arrows touch each other, install them correctly.

If the mechanism wobbles in the body, tighten the mounting screws.

If the crown is not locked for winding the spring or shifting the hands, check whether the spring of the shifting lever (detent) or the lever itself is broken. In this case, it will have to be replaced. If the lever is intact, tighten its screws to the stop.

If the clock stops for no apparent reason, check the following items:

Minute clutch with a driving wheel. It may be too weak, in which case you should remove the minute watch from the wheel rim, press the wheel with tweezers and bend the friction lugs to the center with a screwdriver. If the desired result is not achieved, then it is better to replace the entire assembly;

The clock wheel tooth may be broken or bent, then the clock wheel must be replaced.

Dust and dirt trapped in the wheel system can also cause a stop. It is necessary to flush the mechanism and also check if any broken screw has got into the mechanism.

If the watch stops due to the fact that the wheels are covered with corrosion, then you can try to remove it; if the wheels are badly corroded, it is better to replace them.

The watch may stop due to the bent or cut drum teeth, in which case both the drum and the mainspring must be replaced. In addition, dirt or shavings can accumulate in the drum, so rinse it in gasoline and wipe the spring with paper.

Insufficient clearance between the parts of the escapement (for example, the anchor fork and pins) can cause a sluggish or fluctuating movement of the watch or even stop it.

Defects in the regulator can cause the watch to rush in one hour by several minutes. For example, a coil could be caught behind a column or adjuster pins. In this case, the spiral turns must be removed from the column or pins, the spiral must be reinstalled and corrected if it is deformed.

Disassembling the alarm clock

Disassembling an alarm clock is slightly different from disassembling a wristwatch, so it is considered separately. Details of the mechanical alarm clock device are shown in Fig. 2.

Figure: 2. Alarm clock kinematic diagram:

1 - balance node;

2 - anchor plug;

3 - anchor wheel with a tribe;

4 - second wheel with tribe;

5 - signal wheel;

6 - hour wheel;

7 - stroke drum with shaft and spring;

8 - signal lock spring;

9 - bracket with shaft and hammer;

10 - signal ratchet wheel with tribe;

11 - signal drum with shaft and spring;

12 - central wheel with a tribe;

13 - intermediate wheel with tribe

The movement is transmitted from the drum (7) to the central pinion with the central wheel (12).

From the central wheel, rotation is transmitted to the intermediate wheel pin (13), then to the second wheel (4) and to the escape wheel (3). The escape wheel transmits the movement impulse to the balance regulator via an anchor fork (2).

The signal mechanism works as follows: the movement is transmitted from the drum (11) to the signal wheel pin (10). The wheel drives the trigger guard with the shaft and hammer (9). This whole system is a trigger regulator.

The signal acts through a special spring (8), which presses on the clock wheel (6), pressing it against the signal wheel (5). When the shoulder on the watch wheel aligns with the shoulder on the hour wheel hub, the signal mechanism starts to move.

When disassembling the alarm clock, first of all, it is necessary to unscrew and remove the winding keys of the stroke and signal, then remove the buttons for transferring the arrows. Unscrew the three screws securing the housing cover, remove them. Remove the button for locking the signal, then unscrew the sleeve in which it was located and remove the sleeve from the body.

Remove the mechanism from the case. Remove the minute and hour hands. Place the movement with the dial side down. Unscrew the three screws securing the sub-dial and remove it together with the signal wheel and signal arrow. Turn the mechanism over with the dial side up in order to disassemble the mechanism for transferring the hands.

The main malfunctions of the alarm clock mechanism and methods for their elimination

If the minute hand has come off the center wheel shaft, replace it.

Replace the crown if it touches surrounding parts.

If the hands rub against the dial, set them so that they are parallel to each other.

If the mainspring does not hold in the wound state, it is necessary to tighten the pawl spring screw to the stop or replace the spring if it is broken.

If the alarm does not start at all, you need to check the following details: the drum shaft, on which the thread may be stripped; winding wheel, on the shaft of which the thread may also be stripped. Defective parts must be replaced.

If the alarm is in a hurry, the travel spring may be too strong. In this case, a characteristic clatter is heard during the clock.

The spring must be replaced.

If for every hour the alarm clock is in a hurry for several minutes, it means that the balance spiral has overflowed into nearby parts (in this case, it must be carefully removed and reinstalled) or the spiral itself has stuck together due to grease (wash the spiral).

If the alarm lags behind, check the stroke spring. It can be crumpled, stretched due to prolonged use (in this case, replace it), or simply poorly lubricated. If everything is in order with the spring, check the balance. Its spiral may be incorrectly installed, dust could get into the mechanism and contaminate the balance, finally, there may be no lubrication (or vice versa - there is too much lubricant and it thickens).

If the alarm stops some time after the winding, first of all, you should check whether dust or dirt has got into the wheel system; then inspect the screws as they can loose or break. Next, check if the wheels of the system are sitting normally on their axle and if they are covered with corrosion (if the corrosion is strong, the wheels must be replaced). Other reasons:

Wear of the teeth of the escape wheel, which in this case will have to be replaced;

Disruption of engagement in the wheel system;

Broken or bent drum teeth (then you will have to change not only the drum, but also the mainspring);

Broken travel spring.

If the travel spring cranks indefinitely, the cause could be either a broken spring that needs to be replaced, or the spring being detached from the drum shaft hook. In this case, the inner coil of the spring must be secured.

If the signal spring does not hold in the wound state, check the signal pawl; its spring may be broken or its screw may be unscrewed.

If the signal spring is wound indefinitely, the reasons are the same as when the travel spring is wound indefinitely.

What do the individual parts of the movement look like and what are the main faults of these parts (for mechanical watches)

Platinum

Platinum is a special base on which all parts of the movement are attached.

For fastening parts, grooves and protrusions (bores) are made in the plate. Accordingly, the shape and dimensions of the platinum depend on the shape and size of the watch. Platinum is usually made from brass. In order to strengthen the rotating parts, bridges are needed, which are special brass plates of various shapes and sizes. For example, in a mechanical watch, the following parts are attached by means of bridges: wheel system, balance system, anchor fork and drum. In the event that the watch has additional devices (calendar, winding, etc.), they are also attached to bridges.

Engine parts

The engine is the power source for mechanical watches. There are two types of motors - kettlebell and spring.

Kettle-lift motors can only work in stationary conditions and are large in size, therefore they are used in the device of floor, wall, as well as tower and other large clocks.

Spring motors are more compact and more versatile than kettlebell motors, but less accurate.

Such an engine consists of a drum, its shaft and a mainspring. Motors can differ in the design of both the springs themselves and the structure of the drum. The drum can be mobile or stationary. If the drum is movable, it means that the mainspring is fixed on it, if it is stationary, the spring is fixed on the shaft, which rotates, the drum remains fixed. Typically, a fixed drum motor is used primarily in large machinery.

In watches with a simplified design, such as alarms, spring motors without drums can sometimes be used. In this case, the spring is attached directly to the shaft.

The spring motor drum consists of a housing, a cover and a shaft. The case looks like metal box cylindrical type, at the lower edge of which is a toothed rim. A shaft hole is located at the bottom of the housing. The same hole is found on the drum cover. In addition, there is a slot at the edge of the cover for opening the cover. The mainspring is attached to the shaft with a special hook. The outer end of the spring is attached to the drum with a lock. The duration of a watch from one winding depends precisely on the spring, that is, on its size.

All mainsprings, except those made of of stainless steelare subject to corrosion. It can occur due to moisture or dust getting on the spring.

The mainspring, along with the hooks of the barrel and mainshaft, the teeth of the barrel and drum wheel and the spring pawl, are the most frequently broken parts of the spring motor.

The first operation during engine repair is opening the drum. This should be done very carefully, as improper opening of the drum could damage it. When removing the spring from the drum, grasp the inner end and hold it carefully so that it cannot instantly unfold.

The mainspring can be broken in the middle or in several places at once. This spring must be replaced. Also, the spring can be cut off at the inner coil. In this case, you should try to fix it. To do this, the inner coil of the spring has to be stretched and straightened, making sure that it does not lose its spiral shape.

The drum may be skewed on the shaft, its teeth are broken or deformed, and the cover or bottom of the drum may be bent. If there are any burrs or scratches on the drum teeth, they must be cleaned.

Bent teeth are straightened with a screwdriver or knife.

If the teeth are broken, the drum will have to be replaced.

The drum wheel, which is attached to the drum shaft, can also be skewed, bent or broken in its teeth. In this case, it is better to replace the wheel, but if this is not possible, then the missing teeth can be inserted by sawing them out of the old drum wheel and soldering with tin.

Another frequently breaking part, especially in wristwatches, is the pawl spring, made of thin steel wire (piano string). In case of breakage, you can easily make a new spring from a piece of string. If the watch is oversized, the spring is cut out of the strip steel.

When installing, the spring is wiped first with a clean cloth, then with oiled tissue paper. At the same time, hold the end of the spring with pliers, trying not to touch it with your fingers. When installing a new spring in the drum, either a special spring winding device or an old drum with a hole cut in the side is used.

This is necessary so that the spring lies flat in the drum and, moreover, allows you not to touch it with your fingers and not to get dirty during installation.

After the spring is installed and its outer coil is fixed on the drum, it is lubricated with two or three drops of oil and the shaft cover is closed. To keep it tighter, the drum must be squeezed between two pieces of hard wood.

In a kettlebell engine, the most vulnerable parts are the chains, since during operation they gradually stretch and their individual links can open. If this happens, you can restore the chain using pliers. First, the chain link is compressed in the longitudinal direction in order to converge the diverged ends, then in the transverse direction to correct the shape of the link.

If deformed a large number of links (up to 20), then the entire section of the chain can be removed, this will practically not be reflected on the watch. The longer length of the chain will need to be compensated.

Details of the main wheel system (angrenage)

Angrenage is one of the main gearing systems included in the movement. All watch wheels consist of two parts - a brass disc with teeth and an axle with a steel pin (gear). The tube is usually made in one piece with the axle. The rotation is transmitted from the wheel to the tribe (in a mechanical watch).

All wheel gear defects are usually caused by meshing defects (too shallow or too deep engagement, broken or skewed teeth, and so on). Therefore, each pair of wheels should be checked separately. If it turns out that a pair of wheels does not rotate freely enough, it is necessary to check the integrity of the teeth around the entire circumference and the correctness of the axes. They should be perpendicular to the platinum.

If the wheel teeth are bent, they can be corrected with a wide screwdriver. In the event that the teeth are broken, it is better, of course, to replace the wheel. But when only one tooth is broken, it is possible to replace it with a new one. To do this, a rectangular hole is cut out in the wheel rim, into which a brass plate is inserted. Then a new tooth is soldered and processed with a file.

Regulator parts

The oscillating system, or the governor is very important detail in the watch mechanism. The accuracy of the watch depends on it. This wristwatch uses a balance travel regulator (balance with a spiral). Outwardly, it represents a round rim.

mounted on the axle. Attached to the top of the axle is the inner end of a spiral (thin spring). By changing the length of the spiral, you can regulate the period of balance fluctuations, that is, the daily rate of the clock.

The length of the spiral is changed using a special device called a thermometer or regulator. The thermometer is attached to the balance bridge. The outer turn of the spiral is attached to the ledge of the thermometer using pins or a special lock. The balance bridge has markings with "+" or "-" signs. If the arrow-pointer of the thermometer is moved towards the "+" sign, then the clock will run faster, if towards the "-" sign it will move slower.

Sometimes instead of pins or a lock, two rollers with a handle are used to rotate.

The part regulator is very fragile and is usually replaced if damaged. However, sometimes, especially if the damage is minor and minor, it can be repaired.

Damage to the thermometer can be as follows:

Malfunction of the thermometer pins, which in this case must be replaced by making new ones from a piece of brass wire;

Corrosion of the thermometer itself, easily corrected by grinding and polishing;

And, finally, the weak mount of the thermometer.

Correcting a deformed spiral is too difficult. Therefore, in case of breakage or deformation, it is better to replace the spiral.

Descent details

In modern watches, so-called escapement devices are mainly used.

They transfer the energy of the plant to a balance or pendulum. The descent device consists of a running wheel, an anchor fork and a double roller with an ellipse mounted on the balance axis.

An anchor fork, or simply an anchor, is a brass or steel lever, in the grooves of which the so-called pallets are located - trapezoidal plates made, as a rule, of synthetic ruby. There must be a gap between the pallets and the teeth of the wheel to prevent them from jamming. If there is insufficient clearance, the pallet can be moved with a sharp wooden stick.

If the pallet is broken or chipped on the edge, it must be replaced. The new pallet is placed in the previously cleaned groove and glued with shellac.

To protect the anchor from accidental blows and shocks, there is a special device - the so-called spear. It is made from brass wire. The spear should not be too short or too long, touching the plate and wobbling in the anchor hole.

Repairing a running wheel is, in principle, the same as repairing other wheels that make up a clockwork. The main wheel defects are also standard - deformation and breakage of the rim and wheel teeth, axle deformation, wheel skew.

Anyone, even the most minor defect the teeth of the travel wheel can interfere with the operation of the watch, so it is better to replace the wheel if the teeth are broken.

If the wheel teeth are unevenly worn, the wheel can be corrected for latheby aligning the teeth with a file.

The complexity of the repair and the fragility of the anchor escapement parts often forces the entire descent device to be changed in the event of a breakdown.

Details of the switch mechanism

The switch mechanism includes the following parts: minute tribe (gear), hour wheel, bill wheel with bill tribe, transfer wheel. The wheels and switch arms do not have their own axles.

A minute tribe is mounted on the central axis, on the sleeve of which the hour wheel rotates. A bill wheel with a bill tribe is mounted on a special axle made in the form of a pin fixed in platinum. In a wristwatch, the axis is one whole with platinum.

A bill tribe or bill wheel has to be repaired infrequently. A large radial clearance of the bill tribe can cause the bill wheel to skew and spoil the engagement of its teeth with the teeth of the minute tribe, as well as the engagement of the clock wheel with the bill tribe. In the event of such a defect, it is necessary to change the axis of the bill tribe, which is easy to do, if, of course, it is made in the form of a pin. If the axis is one whole with the platinum, then the old one will need to be cut off, and in its place a hole should be drilled and a new axis of the diameter you need pressed into it.

In the event that the platinum is too thin and you are worried about its strength, the axle must be carefully soldered.

If, on the contrary, the tribe of the bill wheel fits too tightly on the axle, then the hole of the tribe is ground by introducing a copper wire covered with a mixture of oil and fine emery into it.

The axis of the bill tribe should be long enough to protrude slightly above its surface. This is necessary so that the tribe does not come into contact with the dial. If the tribe is too high and still rubs against the dial, then the butt end of the tribe is grinded down on a fine-grained emery stone, after which the hole and teeth of the tribe must be cleaned of burrs.

The main part of the switch gear, which ensures the movement of the entire switch mechanism, is the minute tribe. Since it is mounted on the central axis, a fairly common type of repair is to correct the landing of the tribe. It is necessary to ensure that when the hands are shifted, the minute tribe rotates freely on the axis, without causing braking of the clockwork.

If the minute tribe has too short and thick bushing tube, it is necessary to pierce it. To do this, it can be squeezed with wire cutters by inserting a steel needle into the hole of the minute.

The next important detail of the switch gear is the hour wheel. It is mounted on the hub of the minute tribe and should rotate completely freely, but the radial clearance should be minimal so that the wheel does not tilt. Otherwise, the engagement between the watch wheel and the bill of exchange will be broken. In the event that the wheel is still skewed, a new clock wheel tube will have to be made. To do this, you need to pick up a brass wire of a suitable diameter, drill a hole in it and grind out a new tube.

Finally, the last detail is the transfer wheel. The reason for its poor-quality operation is often axle wear, due to which the wheel does not sit properly on it. If the axle hole is too developed, then a brass washer must be placed under the wheel; if the wheel simply dangles on the axle (excessive radial clearance), either the axle should be replaced, or a hub should be turned into the wheel.

In addition, if the axle height is insufficient, the transfer wheel can jam. To eliminate this defect, the wheel must be sanded on an emery stone.

The teeth of the bill and watch wheels can be reinserted using the method described on p. 22. And the teeth of the transfer wheel are more difficult to fix, since it is usually made of steel. It is easier to replace the entire wheel.

Details of the winding mechanism of the spring of the transfer of arrows (remontuar)

All watch models have a mechanism for winding the spring and transferring the hands in many respects. As a rule, only the ways in which the wheels that make up this mechanism are attached to each other differ.

The repair kit includes the following parts: a drum wheel, which is fixed on the square part of the drum shaft, a winding wheel and a winding tribe mounted on the winding shaft.

The winding wheel is installed in the socket of the drum bridge and is secured with a patch washer. When unscrewing it, remember that the screw holding the washer can have a left-hand thread.

If the watch is old, then such a screw may be absent altogether. In this case, the winding wheel is secured with a washer with a threaded hole.

The winding wheel and the winding tribe rotate at right angles to each other and are connected by means of an engagement. Usually, the winding wheel has one gear crown for engagement, but in an outdated watch, the winding wheel has two gear rings: one is intended for interaction of the winding wheel with the drum wheel, and the second, at the end, for interaction with the clockwork tribe.

If the translation of the hands in the clock is carried out, as in most modern models, using a button, the remontuar will contain a cam clutch consisting of a winding tribe and a winding clutch. They are installed on the winding shaft. On the cylindrical part of the shaft there is a winding tribe, on the square part there is a winding clutch.

The winding shaft itself is fixed in platinum.

The winding clutch includes a lever that is lowered when the button is pressed. You can lower the lever with a spring.

The winding spring of the watch acts in this way: the rotating winding shaft carries away the winding clutch fitted on it, which rotates together with the shaft and with its end teeth engages the winding tribe, which transfers its movement to the winding wheel.

When the winding shaft rotates in the opposite direction, the drum wheel dog brakes the drum and winding wheels, and with them the clockwork tribe.

When you want to translate the hands, pressing the button causes the lower end of the winding clutch to engage with the bill wheel. The spring winding mechanism is turned off, and the arrows are translated.

If you are inspecting the mechanism for moving the arrows, then you must carefully check the condition of the teeth of all wheels and tribes, the clearances of all rotating parts, as well as how correctly the levers interact with each other.

If the teeth of the winding tribe and the winding clutch are found to be bent, broken or worn out, then their repair is useless. Such parts can only be replaced.

One of the most frequently broken parts of the repair tool is the winding shaft. Factory causes of defects can be the following:

A too thin square part of the shaft does not fit well into the hole in the winding clutch;

The diameter of the winding shaft is understated;

The recess for the shift lever on the shaft is too narrow;

The shoulder of the winding shaft is too short to accommodate the winding tribe;

Thin or short stem trunnion.

In modern watches, the crown is made as one piece, but in watches of outdated designs, it consists of two parts; the main (the actual head) and the capsule made of soft metal (gold or silver), which is wrapped around the main head. If the head coating is broken, it should be replaced.

The fastening of the head to the thread of the winding shaft must be reliable and strong, in no case allowing spontaneous unscrewing.

If the crown has to be changed, pay attention to the correct choice of its shape and size. So, for example, the crown should not fit too tightly to the watch case and should be large enough so that when winding the watch it would be convenient to grip it with your fingers.

Details of the exterior

The details of the external design of the watch include: dial, hands, case.

The case of a modern watch is made up, as a rule, of four parts: a lid, glass with a bezel, and a case ring. If the watch is of an outdated design, then its case may have two back covers.

The schematic diagram of the wristwatch case connection is as follows: glass is pressed into the groove of the case ring. The watch cover is screwed onto the case ring and has a sealing gasket. The winding shaft with the crown is brought out into the hole in the case ring through a special bushing.

Cases - watches are divided according to their protective properties dust-, moisture- and waterproof. Of these, the most common type of enclosure protection is moisture-proof.

The type of enclosure and its sealing properties are mainly dependent on design features and the quality of the gaskets.

The waterproof case is designed to protect the watch from corrosion in rooms with high humidity or from the penetration of rain drops, etc. As for the design features, the moisture-proof type of case differs little from others.

The protective properties of the watch case depend on the reliability of the seal. All three types of housing have a so-called thread book with a sealing gasket. In order to bring the winding shaft out, there is a hole in the case, equipped with a seal sleeve.

In watches with a waterproof case, the bond is increased by using PVC or soft metal alloys (eg lead-tin) spacers. The most common are simple threaded caps with gaskets that fit into an annular groove in the body ring. Covers that are secured in the body ring with an additional threaded ring are less common.

As for the size and appearance of the watch case, there is a great variety in this respect. The most common forms for watches are round, square and rectangular, multifaceted, as well as in the form of pendants, brooches and even rings.

Most of the defects in the housing depend, as a rule, on its sealing. If the O-ring is deformed or damaged, it is best to replace it; but, if replacement is not possible, then the connection of the cover with the body is lubricated with a special mixture made from a small amount beeswax and petroleum jelly. To obtain the desired lubricant, the mixture is heated and thoroughly stirred. When a homogeneous mass is formed, the lubricant is applied thin layer on the edge of the housing ring.

Then the cover is installed. After the wax layer hardens, the connection of the lid to the body is sealed.

The most vulnerability The waterproof case is a hole in the case ring through which the winding shaft with the crown fitted on it is pulled out. This connection is sealed with bushings installed in the housing ring bore. Some watches have an additional spring ring that is put on the sealing sleeve. The bushing is the most wearing part of this assembly.

Most good design connection is one in which the crown is screwed onto the neck of the case ring. Moreover, it itself is a sealing plug. If it is necessary to wind the watch or turn the hands, the crown is unscrewed and slightly pulled out of the case, after which it functions as an ordinary crown.

Cases of some wristwatches, especially for women, often do not even have dust protection. In such cases, the case is made in the form of a square or round box, in the lower part of which there is a mechanism, and the upper half, carrying the glass, is put on the lower one and covers the dial. Since the mechanism is inserted very tightly into the lower half of the case, often when opening such a case the mechanism gets stuck and it is rather difficult to remove it. In this case, you need to carefully install the mechanism in place, and then try to pull it out again by slipping a knife or a screwdriver under the tabs of the plate protruding above the edge of the lower half of the case. Never try to lift the mechanism by the edges of the dial.

If the watch case is water- or moisture-proof, then the movement is usually free in it.

For better fixation, a special spring ring can be installed in the case, the legs of which rest against the back cover of the watch and against the platinum side. Sometimes these spring rings act as an additional shock absorber, acting as a shock absorber.

Some watch movements, before being installed in the case, are covered with a thin brass protective casing from the side of the bridges. When disassembling the mechanism, the cover must naturally be removed.

As a rule, in most cases, the cover is not attached to the mechanism and it is not difficult to remove it. If the cover is secured with one or two screws, they can be easily removed.

In some watches, both outdated and modern, the mechanism is fixed in the case with two screws. The head of the screws can be normal or partially sheared. To remove the mechanism, the normal head screws must be completely unscrewed. If the mechanism is secured with partially sheared head screws, it is sufficient to turn them half a turn so that the shear is directed towards the housing ring.

Watch glasses are usually made of synthetic materials (most often made of plexiglass). However, plexiglass glasses by themselves cannot yet provide the required tightness. If the glass is intended for a moisture-proof housing, then it is allowed to simply press the glass into the housing ring; but when creating waterproof cases, an additional metal or plastic ring is used to ensure the necessary tightness.

Another disadvantage of plexiglass is that it is hygroscopic, that is, it absorbs moisture. In extremely humid conditions (e.g. rain or even fog), Plexiglass can allow moisture to enter the watch case. If after that there is a sudden cooling of the watch, then drops of water will settle on the inner side of the case and on the glass, which will certainly lead to corrosion of the steel parts of the mechanism. Therefore, to improve the tightness of some watch models, recent times silicate glasses began to be used again.

Concerning possible defects watch glasses, organic glass with scratches, as well as covered with cracks or individual frosted spots must be replaced or carefully polished. Silicate glass should not be replaced with organic glass.

As materials for the manufacture of cases for table, wall and grandfather clocks are mainly used wood or plastic, less often metal. Alarm clock cases are usually made of metal or plastic. It is not difficult to replace the glass in them, and the case itself is practically not subject to repair. Nevertheless, it is better to check the individual parts of the case, if possible, correct dents and scratches on its surface (if the case is metal).

If the watch case is wooden, then the cracked seams on it must be carefully filled with wood glue.

The watch dials are fixed with special side screws. The screws clamp the dial feet into the holes in the plate. Sometimes the dial can be screwed directly onto the platinum.

When disassembling the mechanism, the dial must be removed very carefully. If the dial is electroplated, the touch of your fingers can leave irreparable stains on it.

Moreover, their surface can be easily scratched.

Dials with an enamel coating chipped and cracked from light pressure. If the dial is thin, it bends easily if handled carelessly.

When you remove the dial, the side screws should only be loosened enough to be done effortlessly. After removing the dial, these screws must be tightened again, otherwise they may be lost.

If the dial leg is broken, you can solder a new one, but only if the dial is enamel. It cleans the place where the new leg is to be installed. To prevent the dial from bending or cracking, it must be supported from below with your finger. The legs are made of copper wire, the diameter of which should be equal to the diameter of the corresponding hole in the platinum.

A brass bushing is fitted to the central hole of the dial, which fits into this hole without a gap. It is put on the watch wheel bushing.

Then, through the corresponding hole in the platinum, the soldering points are marked. Soldering must be done quickly so that the dial does not have time to warm up. The flame should be directed mainly at the wire of the leg, heating it until the solder is completely melted.

The position of the hands on the dial may be affected. If the axis of the second hand does not coincide with the center of the seconds scale of the dial, then an error of several seconds may occur during the timing. In alarms, such a defect can cause an incorrect signal.

However, centering defects can only be corrected to a limited extent. If the dial is metal, then you can carefully bend the legs. To do this, place the dial on a plate, place a wooden plate on it and gently tap the corresponding side of the dial with a hammer.

Unfortunately, on modern dials, where they use mainly electroplating or varnish coating, replacing the foot is practically impossible, since even the slightest heating of the dial will cause indelible stains on its surface.

A dirty dial must be cleaned.

It is better to clean the enamel dial with gasoline. In the event that it is cracked or too heavily soiled, it must be washed. To do this, rub the dial with soap and then rinse it. warm water... To remove dirt from cracks, you need to wipe the dial with a cut of a raw potato. After washing, the dial is dried by wrapping it in tissue paper.

Printed dials and dials with silver-plated brim do not tolerate cleaning well. Gasoline and alcohol cannot be used to clean them at all.

If it is impossible to replace the dial, and the signs on it have worn off, you can write them with black paint or ink. It is better to use a wooden stick for writing.

If the signs (strokes and numbers) on the dial are not painted, but glued, then it is better to polish them and cover them with colorless varnish.

As for the watch hands, first of all, of course, they must be of a certain length and firmly held on the axes. The hands should not touch one another or touch the dial or glass. If you change the arrows, it is best that they also match external design hours in shape and color.

It is better to set the second hand along the course of the watch, which makes it possible to control the contact of the hand with the dial or platinum.

If the second hand is located in the center of the dial, then it has a curved end and is installed with gaps relative to the minute hand and the glass. The side seconds hand must be perfectly flat and pass over the dial with minimal clearance. The gap between the hands should be carefully checked around the entire circumference of the dial.

It is most convenient to shoot arrows with tweezers. The hole in the arrow must match the diameter of the bearing axle. If the hole is too narrow, widen it with a drill. Drill in several steps, gradually using larger diameter drills.

At normal length, the minute hand should overlap half to two-thirds of the width of the minute scale. If the arrow is too long, it can be adjusted by placing the arrow on thick glass and cutting off the ends with a knife. The end of the hour hand must cover no more than one third of the digits.

In the event that the watch dial is not flat, but curved, the minute hand is usually very close to the glass in the area of \u200b\u200bnumbers 6 and 12 and with the dial in the area of \u200b\u200bnumbers 3 and 9. These places must be carefully checked in order to prevent the hand from touching the glass or dial.

Features of the device and repair of mechanical wrist watches of complex structures

Such watches include the following: watches with a shockproof device, watches with automatic winding, with various signaling devices, with a single or double calendar, etc. Repair of such watches at home is more difficult, but possible.

Nowadays, watches with a central second hand and a shockproof device are quite popular (Fig. 3).

Figure: 3. Kinematic diagram of a watch mechanism with a central second hand and a shockproof device:

1 - transfer lever;

2 - a clockwork wheel;

3 - dog;

4 - drum with shaft and spring;

5 - drum wheel;

6 - central wheel;

7 - tribe of the central second hand;

8 - intermediate wheel;

9 - second wheel;

10 - balance node;

11 - shockproof devices;

12 - anchor plug;

13 - escape wheel with tribe;

14 - hour wheel;

15 - minute tribe;

16 - bill wheel;

17 - transfer wheel;

18 - winding lever;

19 - cam clutch;

20 - clockwork tribe;

21 - winding shaft

The spring motor of such a watch is located inside a tightly closed drum. This design is convenient so that dirt does not get into the engine and grease does not leak out. The wheel system consists of a small number of wheels (in this design there are only 4 of them - anchor, second, intermediate and central). The center wheel (6) has a through hole. A tribe (7) passes through it. The second hand is rigidly fixed on the axis of the tribe.

The shockproof device in watches is designed to prevent breakage or deformation of one of the most fragile parts - the balance axis. The principle of operation of the anti-shock device is that the balance supports, supported in a certain position by a spring, are displaced with a lateral push, protecting the axle, and then return to their original position.

Where to start repairing watches? The first thing to do is to determine if the movement is faulty. Most often this is contamination and drying of the lubricant. This malfunction is determined visually - black tribes, dry oil cans. To eliminate the malfunction, the clockwork must be disassembled, cleaned and lubricated.
For a novice watchmaker, the most important thing is to learn how to disassemble and assemble a watch movement. It is necessary to study on an old, unpretentious watch, because in the learning process there will be mistakes and mistakes. Let's try to disassemble the clockwork. To do this, you must follow a certain sequence:

1. Remove the back cover of the watch - then you need to unscrew the screws securing the back cover, after unscrewing the winding keys and removing the arrow buttons. If this is a wristwatch, then the back cover can be removed in two ways, either unscrewed or snapped off.

2. Remove the mechanism from the case - to do this, unscrew the fastening screws of the mechanism. In a wristwatch, you also need to get the winding shaft. To do this, you need to put the winding shaft in the mode of transferring the arrows (pull it off), press on the suppressor (slightly recessed button in the spring bridge) and pull it out.

AFTER REMOVING THE MECHANISM FROM THE BODY, THE WINDING SHAFT MUST BE PLACED IN PLACE.

3. Remove hands and dial - the hands are simply napresovanny; it is enough to slightly pry them with a screwdriver, but it is better to remove them with corsangs (nippers with tweezers), then there are no scratches left on the arrows or on the dial. If the clockwork is without a fight and without a calendar, the hour hand can be left on, the dial is removed together with the hour wheel and hand. In order to remove the dial, you need to unscrew the screws that fasten the dial; in a wristwatch, it is enough to loosen them (unscrew by 2-3 turns). Usually the screws for fastening the dial are located at the end of the clockwork, from diametrically opposite sides. All manipulations for disassembling, assembling clockwork mechanisms must be carried out on a special stand, in order to avoid dust from the desktop and breakdown of the central and second wheels, which protrude relative to the board.

4. Weaken the spring plant- among watchmakers, this procedure is called deflating the spring. To do this, you need to wind up the spring with the fingers of one hand in half a turn, and without releasing it, take the dog to the side with the other hand using tweezers. Then, slowly releasing the winding shaft, wait until the spring is fully unwound.

5. Remove the balance bridge- unscrew the screw or screws, if there are two, fastening the balance bridge. With tweezers we pry the bridge and slowly lifting it together with the balance, carefully remove it from the mechanism. With all this, you need to watch so that the balance spiral (hair) does not catch on the wheels.

THE BRIDGE IS NECESSARY THAT THE BALANCE IS ABOVE. Otherwise, the balance axle (s) may be broken.

6. Remove the anchor fork bridge - unscrew the screws securing the anchor fork, remove the anchor fork bridge, remove the anchor fork. The parts to be removed must be placed in front and to the left of you, because the tool should be on the right if you are right-handed

7. Remove the spring bridge - similarly.

8. Remove the axle of the wheel system- before removing the axle of the wheel system (angrenage), it is necessary to remove the minute tribe. It is located on the center wheel on the dial side. There is no need to take off the minute tribbe in the Slava alarm clock without special need. Also in the Slava alarm clock, the wheel axle and the spring axle are one whole. We unscrew the screws securing the angrenage bridge, remove the bridge, take out the wheels. The wheels must be removed one at a time so as not to damage the adjacent ones.

Basically, the dismantling of the mechanism for a novice watchmaker is over. Now the most interesting thing is how to turn this bunch of screws and wheels back into a clockwork. Everything is very simple, we assemble in the same sequence in which we disassembled. We put the wheels, the axle of the wheel system in their places, tighten the screws, after making sure that all the upper and lower axles of the wheels hit the stones. We put the spring, the spring bridge, tighten the screws. After that, you can slightly wind up the spring, if all the wheels are spinning, then you have assembled everything correctly. Then we put the anchor fork and balance in their places. It should be noted that when setting the balance, the impulse stone (ellipse) must fall between the trunnion fork arms, and not behind them. Now you can wind the spring of the clock, if the clock has started, the pendulum began to oscillate, then you have collected everything correctly. If not, do not despair, your main task at first is to learn how to disassemble and assemble the clockwork so as not to break the parts. Disassembly and assembly of watch movements must be carried out regularly in order to fill your hand.

IN modern world it is not necessary to wear the watch on your wrist, you can find out the time by looking at mobile phone... However, to maintain a certain image and status, wristwatches are worn as an indispensable accessory by both men and women. Someone prefers modern electronic gadgets, others adhere to the classic version. Sooner or later, there is a need to clean the mechanism. To do this, you need to know how to disassemble a watch yourself, if you don't want to go to the master.

How to start disassembling a mechanical watch?

First you need to prepare a tool: tweezers, a special screwdriver, thin knife, a small stick, lubricant, and a cotton swab. initial stage the question of how to disassemble a mechanical wristwatch is as follows:

Removing the rear housing cover. It is produced by prying on her sharp knife, by turning until it leaves the fixing grooves using tweezers or by simple unscrewing along the thread (depending on the design).
Before getting the mechanism, you should lower the mainspring by pulling the locking pawl with the crank handle to the extreme position. The mechanism is held with tweezers.
Then the winding shaft is disconnected. To do this, it is set in the mode of switching the arrows, after which the screw of the switching lever is loosened.
Now you can get the mechanism.
Having inserted a shaft into it, they check the degree of freedom of rotation of the wheel, the reliability of fastening the spiral and the drum.

The final stage

Now you need to start dismantling the dial and hands. Using tweezers, detach the second and minute hands. The dial is removed together with the hour indicator, after which the pointer mechanism, gear engagement and the correct fixation of the levers are checked.

We learned how to disassemble a wristwatch. It must be remembered that important point is to disconnect the bridge and balance assembly. It is necessary to carefully unscrew the screw of the spiral column a couple of turns, separate the balance assembly from the bridge base, making sure that it does not hang on the edge of the spiral.

Next, the anchor is removed, and all its wheels are disconnected. Inspection is carried out for adhesion and position of teeth, gears, wheels. The barrel is also disconnected and the state of the winding spring mechanism is examined.

Disassembling a quartz watch

To know how to disassemble a quartz wristwatch, you need to remember that they are divided into several types:

Analog models that have a pointer mechanism but are powered by a battery.
Electronic variations with display of readings in digital form, powered by a small battery.
Automatic self-winding combination version, combining quartz and mechanical movement.

In any case, the initial steps are the same. The cover must be removed first. It can be of three types:

On the thread. It is unscrewed counterclockwise with tweezers or a special device used by watchmakers.
Flap option. It has a special groove and protrusion, which can be opened by prying it with a sharp object.
Screw fastening. Removable with a suitable screwdriver.

Having dealt with the cover, you should carefully replace the battery and close the case in the reverse order.

What do you need to know?

In order to know how to disassemble a wristwatch, it is necessary to study the layout of all elements and parts. This is especially true for mechanical devices. Schematic representation the inner filling is shown in the following photo.

Decoding the scheme

Below, according to the positions, the decoding of the numbers indicated in the diagram is given.

1 - balance	9 - fork anchor mechanism	17 - anchor wheel	23 - intermediate wheel	29 - drum roller	35 - clockwork circle	41 - its spring	47 - hour hand
2 - double roller	10 - anchor fork axis	18 - through stone	24 - his tribe	30 - sword-like pad	36 - his tribe	42 - transfer wheels	48 - minute pointer
3 - balance axis	11/12 - entry / exit flight		25 - central wheel	31 - drum wheel	37 - roller for watch winding	43 - similar	49 - minute hand tribe
4, 5, 6 - overhead, through and impulse stone	13 - spiral	20 - second wheel	26 - his tribe	32 - fixing pawl	38 - translation lever	44 - bill wheel
	14 - spiral shoe	21 - his tribe	27 - drum	33 - retainer spring	39 - its spring	45 - his tribe
8 - restriction pins	15, 16 - pins of the control thermometer	22 - second hand	28 - winding up spring scroll	34 - cam-type clutch	40 - winding lever	46 - hour wheel

Features:

Disassembly of any type of wristwatch has three stages:

Preparation of tools.
Opening the cover.
Work on the internal mechanism.

How to disassemble a wristwatch with a battery? This question is relevant for most consumers. This type of work is one of the most basic. The determining factor here is the definition of the type of cover fixation. Then you just need to carefully replace the feeding element and repeat the procedure in the reverse order. Naturally, it is necessary to use a typical or suitable battery.

The most difficult thing to deal with is a mechanical device, as there are many different screws, springs and miniature parts. Inside the electronic mechanism, one should not at all be introduced independently, if there is no corresponding knowledge and experience.

Conclusion

If you know how to disassemble a self-winding wristwatch, and the operation was successful, you should properly clean and lubricate the elements (applies to mechanics). For this, the parts are washed in clean gasoline poured into a small container. The octane number in it should not exceed 20. First, parts that are larger are cleaned, then miniature elements.

After that, they should be blown out with a weak stream of air, holding them in weight with tweezers. The watch is assembled in reverse order. It can be noted that disassembling such a complicated mechanism will require attention and painstaking attention. Nevertheless, it is absolutely possible to carry out the procedure yourself.

Of course, you shouldn't risk it if the watch is very expensive and you have no experience in servicing it. In this case, you must entrust the accessory to an experienced watchmaker. Simple cleaning will not be expensive. And if you need to replace a certain part, the more it will be better to contact a specialist.

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